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ATR Is Published by the Friends of ATN, Hosted by the Centre for Textile Research in Copenhagen Contents Archaeological Textiles Review Editorial 2 ATR is published by the Friends of ATN, hosted by the Centre for Textile Research in Copenhagen. Articles Editors: Eva Andersson Strand An exceptional way to join two textiles: 3 Karina Grömer A textile fragment from Hisn al-Bab, Egypt Mary Harlow Anne Kwaspen Jane Malcolm-Davies Ulla Mannering Bandages for Bastet: a study of three 6 Egyptian cat mummies Luise Ørsted Brandt, Anne Haslund Hansen, Hussein Shokry & Chiara Villa Scientifi c committ ee: John Peter Wild, UK The analysis and conservation of a 21 Lise Bender Jørgensen, Norway 5th century CE child’s tunic from Egypt Elisabeth Wincott Heckett , Ireland Christina Margariti, Ina Vanden Berghe, Johanna Banck-Burgess, Germany Gabriela Sava & Tina Chanialaki Tereza Štolcová, Slovakia Heidi Sherman, USA Cultural interconnections: textile craft and 32 Claudia Merthen, Germany burial practices in Early Medieval Sudan Christina Margariti, Greece Elsa Yvanez, Mary Lou Murillo, Vincent Francigny & Alex de Voogt Layout: Karina Grömer Medieval Nubia: a contribution to the 45 Cover: Pernille Højfeld Nielsen study of textiles from Meinarti Iron shears from Cascina Grande Magdalena M. Wozniak & Barbara Czaja (Image: Polo Museale della Lombardia) Exploring the construction of a Bronze Age 56 Print: Grafi sk braided band from Dartmoor, UK University of Copenhagen Celia Elliott -Minty Dating loom weights from 65 Százhalombatt a-Földvár, Hungary Subscription information: To purchase Sophie Bergerbrant & Magdolna Vicze a printed copy of the latest Archaeological Textiles Review, please visit: Early Iron Age Textile Tools 83 www.webshophum-en.ku.dk/shop/ from the Požega Valley, Croatia archaeological-textiles-333c1.html. Hrvoje Potrebica & Julia Katarina Fileš Kramberger Information about institutional subscriptions is also available here. Late La Tène and Early Roman textile tools 101 This will also provide membership of from Dorno, Italy the Friends of ATN. Serena Scansett i Visit www.atnfriends.com to learn more about the organisation. Animal hair evidence in an 11th century 109 female grave in Luistari, Finland ISSN 2245-7135 Tuija Kirkinen, Krista Vajanto & Stina Björklund Archaeological Textiles Review No. 62 Articles High Medieval textiles of Asian and Middle Eastern provenance 126 at Prague castle, Czech Republic Milena Bravermanová, Helena Březinová & Jana Bureš Víchová Pious vanity: Two pairs of 18th century abbesses’ knitt ed gloves 144 Sylvie Odstrčilová The Gällared shroud: a clandestine early 19th century foetal burial 152 Elizabeth E. Peacock, Stina Tegnhed, Emma Maltin & Gordon Turner-Walker Projects Linen twills from the Hallstatt salt mine re-dated 164 Karina Grömer, Margarita Gleba, Mathieu Boudin & Hans Reschreiter Holy hands: studies of knitt ed liturgical gloves 170 Angharad Thomas & Lesley O’Connell Edwards Heritage Gansey Knitt ing Network Project 175 Lisa Litt le Margrethe Hald: the life and work of a textile pioneer 181 Ulrikka Mokdad, Morten Grymer-Hansen & Eva Andersson Strand EuroWeb: a new European network and COST Action 2020-2024 183 Marie Louise Nosch, Agata Ulanowska & Elsa Yvanez Conferences Texel Stocking Project conference 187 Christine Carnie The colour BLUE in ancient Egypt and Sudan 190 Susanne Klose EAA: Annual meeting of the European Association of Archaeologists 194 Luise Ørsted Brandt, Elsa Yvanez, Matilde Borla, Varvara Busova, Sa- mantha Brown, Bela Dimova, Francesco Meo, Alessandro Quercia, Franc- esca Colett i, Vanessa Forte, Christina Margariti and Stella Spantidaki Resources: New Books and News 199 Archaeological Textiles Review No. 62 1 Editorial The year 2020 is coming to an end and all over the We are currently revising the guidelines for authors world this year has brought challenges, sorrow and and will upload the new version to the homepage new habits to all of us. In academia, it has resulted in soon. Please check there for guidance on style, the cancellation of numerous events and conferences. format and layout for submissions to the journal. In But we have found new ways to meet – on Skype, the meantime, please turn to ATR60 for guidance Teams, Zoom and the like – which have brought on editorial consistency for now. We take pride in unexpected benefi ts. However, many of us have helping experienced researchers as well as newcomers also realised the high value of meeting colleagues in to the fi eld to disseminate their work, but we will, in person and recognised the privilege of being mirrored future, concentrate our editing eff orts on article and in somebody else’s eyes. report content. It takes a lot of time to pass everything In 2021, when we hope the world will start to return through the peer review system, but it is a necessary to normal with the help of vaccines and a milder and rewarding process. It ensures that all articles season, we look forward to continuing our scholarly published through our journal have the same high tasks and disseminating the many excellent textile standards as other publications with which we like to research projects which are fl ourishing in museums compare ourselves. and universities all over Europe. Let us all wish for We welcome all submissions and are delighted to the year 2021 to bring many new and exciting research read about textile research in all and every associated collaborations and publications to the fi eld. We are fi eld – but please take care to adhere strictly to the very happy to disseminate these in the Archaeological editorial guidelines of the journal before submitt ing a Textiles Review through articles, project reports, manuscript. We currently have too much painstaking conference reports and book announcements. You work for the editorial team in amending details which - our readers - are the content makers and receivers – should have been corrected by the authors before we at ATR are just the facilitators. submission. Despite the pandemic, ATR received a steady fl ow We have invited Mary Harlow, who has recently of articles during 2020, and we already have many retired from her position at University of Leicester, exciting papers in pipeline for the next issue (ATR63). to join the editorial group. We thank Mary for her This is a good situation for an editorial team but enthusiasm and look forward to collaborating with maybe not for an author who is keen to see their work her in 2021 and into the future. in print. Nevertheless, we do our best to process as The Friends of ATN, which is the legal institution much as possible for the issue to come and to continue behind the newslett er/review, has not had an annual to be a swift publishing channel. Please have patience general meeting since 2017. The next meeting will with us if things are delayed or postponed. We, in take place during the 14th NESAT in Finland in common with everybody else at the moment, struggle August 2021, although it has not been decided yet with lockdowns and diffi cult work conditions for if the conference will take place at the University of international collaborative work. All our labours on Oulu, and/or only online. During this meeting, we will ATR are voluntary so we are juggling many work and present changes to the constitution so that they match family commitments as well as editing submissions to the current publication scheme. More information the journal. on this will announced on the homepage at www. From this issue, we will publish ATR directly on our atnfriends.com. website (www.atnfriends.com). It is still possible This year’s issue (as is usual) contains an interesting to order a printed copy from the webshop at the mix of articles from a range of periods and geographical University of Copenhagen in Denmark (www. areas, as well as projects and a few conference reviews, webshophum-en.ku.dk/shop/archaeological-textiles- which we hope will be appreciated by our readers. 664s1.html) but authors will no longer receive a Do enjoy reading ATR62 and please spread the word printed copy. about it. ATR is now a true open-source journal, free The layout of the journal has gradually changed in to download. This is only possible with the work and recent years thanks to Karina Grömer’s hard work help of many volunteers with enthusiastic hands and and creativity, and we encourage authors to take minds. inspiration from this. We off er more opportunities The deadline for research articles for each issue is 1 for colour illustrations than most academic journals, May but project and conference reports and other which is of particular value in the scientifi c and announcements are welcome by 1 October. aesthetic discussion of textiles. The Editors 2 Archaeological Textiles Review No. 62 Articles Anne Kwaspen An exceptional way to join two textiles: A textile fragment from Hisn al-Bab, Egypt Abstract Since 2019, a research project has been ongoing on the many tex le fragments that were excavated in Hisn al-Bab, near Aswan, Egypt (late sixth to early seventh century CE). Part of the study focuses on the determina on of clothing frag- ments. Seams are an important feature for iden fying garments. An inves ga on of these features revealed that one of Hisn al-Bab’s tex le fragments provides evidence for an unusual way of joining two woven tex les without using sewing techniques. Keywords: tex le, Egypt, Nubia, Hisn al-Bab, fi nishing border, seam Introduction The site of Hisn al-Bab, a military installation on a rocky slope and plateau on the eastern bank of the Nile, is situated in southern Egypt at the south end of the fi rst Nile cataract, 10 km south of Aswan. Its importance to the military is obvious because of its strategic location on the frontier between Egypt and Nubia. The archaeological site consists of two fortresses (Gascoigne and Rose 2012; Styhler-Aydın and Döring-Williams 2017).
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