URBAN COST- EVOLUTION CUTTING A CHANGING LANDSCAPE AVON TO RESORT 2015 IS SHUFFLING THE DESIGNERS OFFERED UP A DIVERSE RANGE OF LOOKS FASHION WEEK SCENE ELIMINATE 600 AS THE SEASON WOUND DOWN. PAGES 10 AND 11 IN BERLIN. SECTION II POSITIONS. PAGE 2

ONLINE MEETS BOTTOM LINE Nordstrom Taps Tech, Brings Wanelo In-store

By RACHEL STRUGATZ

THE LINE BETWEEN brick-and-mortar and digital retailing is becoming more seamless by the day. Buzzy social shopping site Wanelo is stepping into the physical world with the help of Nordstrom, which is roll- ing out wall displays to 107 stores featuring styles that it TUESDAY, JUNE 24, 2014 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY already carries, but are rated most popular by Wanelo’s WWD users. For the Seattle-based chain, which garnered one million followers on Wanelo in just fi ve months, it’s a chance to tap into that dramatic growth. “People are just ready for an experience that is fully focused on shopping,” said Wanelo founder Deena Varshavskaya. “They have been frustrated with not being able to shop on Pinterest or Instagram.” Since Wanelo — short for Want, Need, Love — of- fi cially launched in 2011, more than 11 million users and 300,000 stores have uploaded 12 million products, which have been saved 2 billion times. The company was self-funded for two years before receiving outside investments and, to date, has raised $14 million from fi rms such as Floodgate, First Round Capital, Red Swan, Ooga Labs and Forerunner Ventures. There are currently 35 employees working out of the start-up’s San Francisco headquarters. Users can follow stores, friends and infl uencers — saving items to their profi le pages to purchase or organize their shopping. Users can only post items from verifi ed retailer sites. And once a brand claims its page, it can edito- rialize collections to engage with fans. Primarily ac- cessed via its mobile app, users can also visit and log onto Wanelo on a desktop. Stripes Nordstrom has 1.2 million highly engaged Wanelo followers who have uploaded more than 200,000 prod- ucts to the brand’s page. All told, the products have been saved 30 million times, with an average of 343 average saves per item. For Nordstrom, more prod- ucts are being saved on Wanelo than on Pinterest. Ahoy! SEE PAGE 16 MILAN — Stripes are ruling the Milan runways, SPRING 2015 Target Scaling Back lining up on suits, MILAN Cambodia Production sweaters, MEN’S COLLECTIONS pants — you By KRISTI ELLIS name it. At WASHINGTON — Cambodia’s commerce minister, the Gucci show here on Monday to make a pitch for more foreign di- on Monday, Frida rect investment, revealed that a second major U.S. Giannini’s take on nautical company — Target Corp. — has reduced its orders in the Southeast Asian nation over labor unrest. style ran from dressy admirals to Speaking at the Center for International and rebellious pirates. Here, one of the Strategic Studies, Cambodian Commerce Minister Sun latter, in silky pajama pants and a trim Chanthol said Target has pulled some production out of the country following a similar move by Levi Strauss blazer, accessorized with a sashlike & Co., which said in late May that it was scaling back cross-body sailor sack. For more on the on orders based on labor and human rights concerns. “Levi Strauss reduced their orders from Milan shows, see pages 4 and 5. Cambodia,” Chanthol said. “Target also reduced their orders from Cambodia because they are afraid of the labor unrest and so on, but so far since the incident in January it is practically calm and safe.” A Target spokesman said, “We can’t speak directly to the comments of the commerce minister as we don’t detail sourcing plans by region. As with any country, we adjust sourcing based on a number of factors.” Cambodian workers, labor groups and union leaders have staged months of protests and strikes, calling for an increase in the country’s minimum wage to $160 a month from the current rate of $100 a month. The Cambodian government, under pres- sure, raised the minimum wage to the current rate from $80 in February. A nationwide strike in Cambodia turned deadly on Jan. 3, when Cambodian security forces opened fi re PHOTO BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI SEE PAGE 13 2 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 24, 2014 WWD.COM Avon Eliminates 600 Positions THE BRIEFING BOX tween $240 million and $250 mil- ment reached last month, Avon IN TODAY’S WWD By ARNOLD J. KARR lion in annualized pretax savings. will pay $135 million in fines but In its last annual report, filed not face criminal charges. AVON PRODUCTS INC.’s ongoing in late February, Avon said it had In the first quarter, Avon’s $400 million cost-cutting program 36,700 employees, 4,300 of them net loss grew to $186.3 million will result in the elimination of in the U.S. The firm’s sales repre- from a loss of $13.7 million in Nora Vai is another 600 positions, principally sentatives operate independently the prior-year period, and rev- the subject of in its corporate organization and and aren’t included in corporate enues declined 11 percent to “Model Call” North American business unit. head count figures. $2.18 billion and were down 3 on WWD.com. Avon expects to record related The Avon fiscal diet has also percent when the effects of cur- charges of $45 million to $50 mil- seen it undertake the “restructur- rency translation are excluded. lion before taxes, with about $40 ing or closure of certain smaller, Sales were $11.1 billion in 2011 million of the sum to be record- underperforming markets,” includ- before slipping to $10.56 billion ed during the second quarter of ing its businesses in South Korea, in 2012 and $9.96 billion last 2014. The cutbacks should result Vietnam and Ireland. Separately, year. Meanwhile, a $513.6 million in annual savings of $50 million Avon’s business in France entered profit in 2011 gave way to a $42.5

to $55 million. receivership in January. million loss in 2012 and a $56.4 MANAGEMENT The downsizing is part of the Last July, the company sold million loss last year, including ONE

Cost Savings Initiative put forth its Silpada Designs jewelry busi- restructuring and other charges. OF by the company following the ness to Rhinestone Holdings for Wall Street hasn’t been impressed appointment of Sheri McCoy as $85 million in cash and potential by the attempts to “right-size” Avon. chief executive officer in April earn-outs of another $15 million Word of the most recent cuts came COURTESY 2012 and is expected to result in a if earnings targets are met over after the markets closed Monday. total global head count reduction a two-year time frame. It also “Wall Street is frustrated, PHOTO of 1,500 jobs as part of “an effort reached an agreement with one- rightly so, because we aren’t grow- to stabilize the business and re- time suitor Coty Inc. for Avon’s ing and we have some profitabil- turn Avon to sustainable growth.” reps in Brazil to sell Coty’s fra- ity challenges,” McCoy said at the Buzzy social shopping site Wanelo is stepping into the PAGE 1 The new round of cuts is simi- grances in that market. WWD Beauty CEO Summit last physical world with the help of Nordstrom. lar in size and scope to others As it’s reorganized, Avon has month. “If we look at growth, it’s made last December when about also labored to resolve a dispute all coming outside the U.S. But Target Corp. has reduced its orders in Cambodia over labor 650 posts, principally in North with the Department of Justice our goal is get the U.S. stable, look unrest in the Southeast Asian nation. PAGE 1 America, were eliminated. involving alleged violations of at how we learn from that because With the reductions made to the Foreign Corrupt Practices it is a developed market and we Italian yarn makers showing at the Pitti Filati trade show are date, Avon believes it has made Act connected to its business in need to understand direct selling noting a recovery in major traditional markets. PAGE 6 cuts that will translate into be- China. Under terms of an agree- in a developed market.” There is a generational passing of the torch taking place among family-run Italian yarn firms. PAGE 8

American Apparel’s Charney Fighting Back Felix Dennis, the colorful British publisher, died of cancer sion and speaking openly about sex. He’s also been PAGE 9 By EVAN CLARK Sunday at the age of 67. sued repeatedly for sexual harassment, and his handling of a settlement tied to one of the suits is Clinton Group forced change at ValueVision Media Inc., from DOV CHARNEY’S tabloid-ready life has always said to have contributed to his firing. He is also said new board members to a new chief executive officer. PAGE 12 had plenty of sex. to have had a part in posting online naked pictures Now it has a boardroom brawl. And it’s still just of an American Apparel employee who sued him. Zadig & Voltaire has inked a 15-year fragrance deal with beginning to heat up in the wake of his ouster last Charney’s departure made for a flurry of salacious PAGE 13 week as chairman, president and chief executive headlines, stories recounting his escapades and al- Shiseido’s Beauté Prestige International. officer of American Apparel Inc. leged abuses and a video of him dancing naked. A filing with the Securities and Exchange American Apparel, no doubt prepared for the Macy’s Inc. has added Starbucks Coffee Co.’s Annie Young- Commission Monday detailing Charney’s position publicity, is rounding up its own team for the fight. Scrivner to its board. PAGE 13 said his termination was “without merit” and that The company said it hired well-known fashion in- he “intends to contest it vigorously.” He is working vestment bank Peter J. Solomon Co. as financial adviser. Jeannette Montgomery Barron’s photos of the New York art with Los Angeles law firm Glaser Weil Fink Jacobs “The hiring of a financial and strategic adviser at scene in the Eighties are now on view in Italy. PAGE 14 Howard Avchen & Shapiro. this important juncture is in the best interest of our After Charney was sidelined — he was technical- stockholders and will help maximize long-term share- Giorgio Armani in May is planning to open a museum-archive ly suspended for 30 days to await termination — he holder value,” said John Luttrell, interim ceo and chief in Milan to be called Armani Silos. PAGE 15 was approached by “certain people, including stock financial officer. “Although the company currently is holders…who expressed support for his continued on track to meet its previously disclosed 2014 EBITDA Salvatore Ferragamo tapped Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott leadership” of the company, according to the filing. [earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation and for its fall ad campaign. PAGE 15 Charney’s been holding discussions with these peo- amortization], we are pleased to be working with Peter ple about “potential changes to the composition of the J. Solomon to ensure that we have adequate access to J.C. Penney Co. Inc. has closed on a five-year $2.35 billion board and management of [American Apparel].” capital in the future at a reasonable cost.” credit facility. PAGE 16 The filing said he also plans to engage with While talk of maximizing shareholder value is American Apparel’s board on “matters related to gov- usually a veiled effort to put out the for-sale sign on ernance and board composition, management, opera- a company, American Apparel’s cochairman Allan ON WWD.COM tions, business, assets, capitalization, financial condi- Mayer told Reuters, “We are certainly not looking to tion, strategic plans and the future of the [company].” sell the company. If someone came and said they want MODEL CALL: Not many people over the age of five can In essence, the fight is on and Charney — who to buy American Apparel for $10 per share, we’d be pull off a bowl cut. Nora Vai, the 25-year-old Lithuanian owns 27.2 percent of the company, or 47.2 million crazy to not listen…but by no means [are we] looking model, is among the rare few. For more, see WWD.com. shares — appears to be attempting to round up a to sell now.” posse to back him up. The company’s stock traded as high as 73 cents Charney’s long been known for his free-loving Monday, but closed down 2.5 percent to 67 cents, leav- ways, living with young employees in his L.A. man- ing it with a market capitalization of $116.6 million. FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA @ WWD.com/social

TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. G-III to Raise Near $120M in Offering WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. credit agreement, with the bal- ny also beat Wall Street’s consen- VOLUME 207, NO. 127. TUESDAY, JUNE 24, 2014. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, By Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, April, May, June, August, October, November and December, and VICKI M. YOUNG ance of the net proceeds to be sus estimate for sales as net sales two additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine invested initially in short-term increased 34.3 percent to $366.2 Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. 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For more information, contact Pamela Firestone, Associate Publisher, WWD, at 212.630.3935 or pamela_fi [email protected] 4 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 24, 2014 Gucci Line Drive GRAPHIC STRIPES AND CHECKS — AND OTHER HELPINGS OF PATTERN — MADE THEIR MARK ON DAY THREE OF THE MILAN MEN’S SHOWS.

Gucci: Crisp and neat, nautical style is easy to wardrobe stuffed with sporty luxe like — and a good number of designers are silhouettes that spirited Canali into new returning to it once more. Frida Giannini and more fashion-forward territory. went for a lively mix of admirals and pirates Pompilio clearly had a younger, edgier in a Gucci show headlined by sprightly customer in mind — one who doesn’t mind accessories. stepping out in trousers with an extra-high Cross-body messenger bags and sailor cuff — 8 centimeters to be exact — and who’s sacks with thick guitar straps in regal reds just as comfortable in his white leather or natty stripes looked like instant hits, sneakers as he is in three-tone loafers, or and added ceremonial and rebellious airs jazzy spectator lace-ups. to a collection focused mainly on tailoring. He also opened a crayon box full of rich The suit shapes were still rooted in the color and texture: Ribbed cotton knits Sixties: the jackets taut and trim; the pants came in shades such as tomato, mint and stovepipe slim and halting above the ankle cream, while suede car coats were done in to exalt horse-bit loafers in matte crocodile. midnight blue or orange. Pompilio used a A two-button suit in a cotton-linen that palette of dusty rose, teal and eau de nil resembled denim was a standout, along for trousers, and worked grid, stripe and with the opening look in white with its geometric jacquard patterns into lean suits. laser-cut edges and grosgrain arm trim. Other suits were two-tone, as in a sleek Denim — gaining momentum this European midnight blue number with black lapels. season — also made an appearance as crisp, It was a fresh approach from Canali — Beetlejuice-striped jeans, and as faded, although at times the clothes looked more paint-smudged castaway roll-ups. suited to a chilly autumn than a warm day in Backstage, Giannini said she sought spring or summer. to marry the aristocratic, jet-set Gucci man with his free-spirited side, the latter Etro: Etro’s man is no wallflower, especially represented by such diverse rockers as Mick for spring. In fact, he’s more of a Jagger, Steven Tyler and David Crosby, a Bacchanalian buffet table. sailing enthusiast who extensively toured The show started out classic enough the Caribbean in a schooner. — double-breasted suits that were a little retro, but still on trend — and then gradually Fendi: “Everyone is working on real clothes, became more eccentric. A baby pink to be very concrete,” Silvia Venturini Fendi parka styled with baby blue jogging pants said backstage when asked why designer and matching sweater were only a gentle denim seems to be roaring back. introduction to what was about to transpire. She, too, tackled jeans — in that elevated “We are what we eat,” was the name of Fendi way, photo-printing images of the collection, and Kean Etro relied heavily distressed denim onto waterproof leather on 16th-century Italian painter Giuseppe pants and jackets — as well as chinos, Arcimboldo, famous for his fantasy portraits polo shirts and sweaters. Other “everyday composed of foodstuffs. But Etro let his basics” for the Fendi man included imagination run wild in the last third of hand-knit cashmere grunge sweaters, the collection as he splashed prints of reversible blousons in glove leather, and crustaceans, fruit, fish, veggies, lasagna colorful headphones detailed in Selleria and plates full of pasta onto track pants, leather, made in collaboration with Beats shirts, anoraks and parkas. Not even the Ports 1961 Moncler Electronics. weekender bags and the trendy slip-on Gamme The accessories — backpacks and luxury sneakers were spared the kooky motifs. It Bleu shower-style sandals, many in croc — gave ended up being too rich for the stomach. familiar ensembles a youthful verve (albeit for those with Dr. Dre budgets). Ports 1961: Rigorous silhouettes and Like many European brands, Fendi is precise cuts defined the Ports 1961 revving up its men’s business, and opened its collection. Moving forward from past first dedicated men’s store in the Elements seasons’ more stiff looks, creative director Mall in Hong Kong earlier this year, plus Fiona Cibani balanced the boxy shapes dedicated a floor to men’s wear in its new of double-breasted blazers with relaxed, Bond Street flagship in London. “More to wide-leg pants. These added a casual feel come,” chief executive officer Pietro Beccari to the lineup, which was also filled with promised, flashing a big smile. sophisticated outerwear styles, such as oversize hooded anoraks, cropped peacoats Emporio Armani: Giorgio Armani was thinking and waterproof trenches, all worked in a like a modernist architect for an Emporio palette of classic tones of white, beige, rust, collection packed with pared-down navy and hints of olive green. silhouettes and covered with stripes and grid patterns. “It’s a clean out — and a Moncler Gamme Bleu: Thom Browne opted powerful one, too,” the designer declared for a boxing ring instead of a catwalk to after the show. “There’s purity — and no showcase Moncler Gamme Bleu’s spring deception.” offerings. The show opened with four bare- Armani said he liked the high-impact chested pugilists stepping into the ring to pairing of black and white after years of the theme from “Rocky.” Following several working with a mélange of colors. To wit: announcements, including the obligatory Stripes galore added graphic punch to “Let’s get ready to rumble,” Browne paraded leather jackets, silk shirts and feather-light a bunch of athletic-inspired outerwear knits. A thin white horizontal line bisected a options, worn on top of the designer’s dark jacket, while suits had thick, shadowy, signature preppy layers — suit jackets, ties contrasting stripes woven into their fabrics. and V-neck sweaters. Underneath came When the stripes disappeared, grid boxing Bermudas mixed with mesh leggings. patterns took over, covering quilted leather The hoodie took center stage. Browne toppers; boxy, hooded jackets, and even featured it on robelike coats and mesh- Bermuda shorts. Armani said he thought covered sweater-jackets. Mesh shorts worn hard about this collection, and was careful over pin-striped tailored pants were simply not to tread into clownish territory. “Even one wacky example of the preppy-versus- young men can allow themselves to be a athletic interplay. little eccentric when they’re dressing at the Browne sprinkled in a few women’s looks, beach,” he said. “But no one wants to be including a long, ballooning skirt matched known as ‘that guy with the striped jacket.’” with a cropped shirt-jacket that had a fresh, sporty feel. Canali: Andrea Pompilio, named creative Backstage, the designer, a jogging consultant earlier this year, showed enthusiast, admitted he’s no boxer. “But I off his first collection for the 80-year- went to Notre Dame and I’m Irish,” he said, old tailored clothing brand, a capsule clenching his fists like a real fighter.

w24a004(5)a;8.indd 1 6/23/14 7:06 PM 06232014191044 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 24, 2014 5 WWD.COM

SPRING 2015 Fendi Emporio Canali Andrea MILAN Armani Incontri MEN’S COLLECTIONS

No. 21

FOR MORE REVIEWS AND IMAGES, SEE WWD.com/ runway.

Antonio Marras

Etro Diesel Black Diesel Black Gold: Get ready to lose a few Antonio Marras: In the summer of the Gold pounds if you want to fit into Diesel Black World Cup, Antonio Marras decided to Gold’s spring offering. Disregarding dedicate his men’s collection to Gigi the loosely cut shapes that are gaining Riva, one of the most popular Italian prominence this Milan season, designer soccer players of all time. The designer Andreas Melbostad opted for ultraskinny didn’t take the soccer inspiration too silhouettes from top to bottom. literally, but blended sporty references Short, fitted blazers and cigarette and sartorial elements into a fresh pants done in denim or light corduroy lineup. In keeping with the label’s GIANNONI GIOVANNI transmitted a boyish vibe. Though signature style, different printed fabrics BY Melbostad went for a dressy look, he were mixed and matched on shirts — blended in an athletic note via chest- some of them embellished with hoods OTHERS

hugging nylon shirt jackets zipped tightly — suits and outerwear pieces, including ALL underneath the blazers. The sporty a dark denim jacket with jersey sleeves theme continued on motocross-inspired worn with baggy, rolled-up jeans. The MAESTRI; leather jackets in white, red and blue, designer also delivered lightweight adding some freshness to the solid yet knits in sophisticated hues that came DAVIDE

safe design effort. paired with shorts in fluid shirt fabrics BY and jogging pants decorated with No. 21: For his first No. 21 runway show, contrasting stripes. Alessandro Dell’Acqua translated the Dirk Bikkembergs MONCLER

signature elements of his women’s wear Dirk Bikkembergs: The design team AND collections into a lineup dominated by for Dirk Bikkembergs Sport Couture a masculine romanticism. Lace was addressed the triathlon man and his ETRO

worked for slim pants and shirts, tops three disciplines: swimming, cycling GOLD, and short pants in lightweight gingham and running. Dozens of athletes took

fabrics were cut in fluid silhouettes to the catwalk, laying flat on the BLACK and suits came in sorbet colors. These ground and mimicking swimming to

contrasted with the contemporary, the sounds of a heartbeat. Models DIESEL skater-inspired feel of printed T-shirts entered sporting wet suit-inspired and Neoprene color-blocked sweatshirts pants and sleeveless leather vests 1961,

embossed with the No. 21 logo. zipped in front. Though the cycling PORTS category featured wheels as props, the Andrea Incontri: The traditional and silhouettes were essentially the same. CANALI, modern blended in Andrea Incontri’s The third discipline added leather

collection, which offered the ideal to the mix, as seen on knit cardigans FENDI, wardrobe for the contemporary explorer. with inserts. Although black suits Computer-generated images and arty featuring slouchy carrot pants added a patterns inspired by classic men’s bit of “couture” to the sporty affair, the fabrics were printed on nylon pants, tops collection was thin on ideas. DABROWSKI;

and outerwear numbers, which looked The spectacle climaxed with KUBA

functional and sophisticated at the same Daniel Hofer, the Italian triathlon BY time. Incontri also delivered textured champion, sprinting down the catwalk. linen suits guaranteeing the perfect “The easiest run of my life,” he said PHOTO

outfit for any kind of safari adventure. backstage. GUCCI

6 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 24, 2014

TEXTILES Pitti Spinners’’ On Road to Recovery er spending, thanks to a turn- als, especially among high-end By SOFIA CELESTE around in Japan and the U.S. cashmere, but at the moment Cariaggi “Contrary to data pointing prices are stable and in-line yarns. MILAN — Italian yarn makers to a slowdown, with regards to with last season.” set to showcase their fall 2015 our own business, we noticed Overall, top Italian compa- collections at the three-day even a small improvement in nies are forecasting a rise in Pitti Filati trade show starting the Chinese market, which is sales for this year. July 2 are noting a recovery in probably due to the opening of Tollegno 1900 sees a 10 to major traditional markets such our direct offices in Shanghai,” 12 percent annual gain, while as Japan, Germany, France, the U.S. and the U.K. “Markets for wool outer- wear knits that include USA, We are certainly experiencing a Japan, U.K., Germany, France and Italy — all established af- drop in the supply of raw materials, fluent consumer markets — are all continuing to slowly recover especially among high-end cashmere, from the global financial crisis of 2008-09. With the addition of China, these comprise the but at the moment prices are stable top seven consumer markets for wool apparel products,” the and in-line with last season. Woolmark Co. said in its May Market Report. — FEDERICO GUALTIERI, FILPUCCI France and Germany in the first six months of 2014 main- said Lincoln Germanetti, ceo of Cariaggi and Filpucci forecast a tained their performance ver- Tollegno 1900. modest rise in revenues for 2014. Piergiorgio sus the previous year, said “The United States seems to Smaller yarn players like Cariaggi Piergiorgio Cariaggi, chief ex- have performed well recently Prato-based Lanificio dell’Olivo, ecutive officer of Italian cash- and Japan is culturally oriented which boosted its sales to 21 mere leader Cariaggi, adding toward quality products,” said million euros, or $28.8 million at that his firm’s sales in France Paolo Todisco, ceo of Zegna average exchange, in 2013 from grew 36 percent and rose 29 Baruffa Lane Borgosesia. “The 20 million euros, or $27.4 mil- percent overall compared with prospect of increased consump- lion, in 2012, are more cautious the same period in 2013. In the tion is plausible.” about 2014. U.S., Cariaggi said the company In terms of raw materials, achieved a 15 percent increase Australian Wool Production in orders for the first half of the forecasts pointed to a decrease ’’ year and expected sales to rise in shorn wool production in the further in the second half. first half of 2014, due in part Biella-based Tollegno 1900 to tough seasonal conditions. Group, which owns and pro- However, Italian yarn firms 21 duces Lanificio di Tollegno noted a stabilization of raw THE NUMBER OF FOREIGN yarns, said in the first half of material prices and said the EXHIBITORS AT PITTI FILATI. 2014 it saw a pickup in consum- volatility of cashmere and wool, their core winter mate- rial, has subsided for “For now, we are in line with Fabric from Zegna Baruffa Lane the time being. 2013,” said Ilaria Taddeucci Borgosesia’s fall 2015 line. “Given our daily in- Sassolini, Lanificio dell’Olivo’s teractions in the sector, commercial director. “We will we conclude that our wait and see what surprises the principal raw material, next few months bring,” wool, is stable, and the The fair’s Spazio Ricerca absence of fluctuations trends area will be dedicated then will move to Milano Unica don its eco-friendly roots, still negates the necessity to the theme of evolution and Sept. 9 to 11. proposing denim as a symbol for price revisions,” change. The title “Made In” is Pinori Filati, a company that of our environmental aware- Germanetti added. symbolic of the cultural and booked 12.5 million euros, or ness without forgetting that all Federico Gualtieri, lifestyle changes that have af- $17.1 million, in 2013, is making our products are treated with Filpucci’s ceo, also fected yarn craftsmanship a name for itself in the region eco-friendly concept and with noted a stabilization through the decades. for making combed yarns and a particular attention to the of wool prices and in There will also be a con- recycled yarns from old jeans. production process in respect technological fibers. tinued focus on Italian denim The company said its recycled of all eco-friendly parameters,” “Raw material pric- makers as a result of Pitti denim will again be featured at Pinori said. es in my opinion are Immagine and textile fair the fair, but it will also show- The fair, which saw 4,800 substantially stable,” Milano Unica’s efforts to pro- case innovative technical yarns buyers and visitors visit its July Gualtieri said. “We mote Italian denim in high-end like its polyester “glow,” as 2013 edition, will host 21 foreign are certainly experi- international markets. The ini- well as reinterpreted mohair in exhibitors, from the U.K., Japan, encing a drop in the tiative will culminate in a exhi- chunky bouclé. Germany, Peru, Turkey, China supply of raw materi- bition at the Pitti Filati fair and “The collection doesn’t aban- and Romania. WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 24, 2014 7 WWD.COM

of Florence, from the origins of the represent the denim chain in Italy. from 11 a.m. to midnight; Friday and Niccolini family, still the owners of the All the products will be labeled Saturday from 11 a.m. to 1 a.m. hotel today, to their estate in Tuscany’s “Denim Italiano: Italian Denim Makers” Tel.: +39-055-0516-656 Camugliano. and will be available in stores. E-mail: [email protected] Florence Web: sevenbrothers.eu Al Palazzo del Marchese di Camugliano “Denim Italiano: Italian Denim Makers” 15 Via del Moro Central stand at Pitti Filati 75 Tel.: +39-055-265-4578 Fortezza da Basso Finds E-mail: [email protected] 1 Viale F. Strozzi Web: palazzodicamugliano.com July 2 to 4 Hours: Wednesday and Thursday from By ALESSIA BANI TO SEE: “Denim Italiano: Italian Denim 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.; Friday from 9 a.m. to 6 Makers” exhibition p.m. Some places to check out while in town. “Denim Italiano: Italian Denim Makers” Tel.: +39-055-369-3257 is the brainchild of an agreement E-mail: [email protected] TO STAY: Al Palazzo del Marchese di between Pitti Immagine and the Web: pittimmagine.com Camugliano hotel Milano Unica trade show, with a focus Newly restored, the Palazzo di TO EAT: 7 Brothers ice-cream parlor Inside the Desigual store. Camugliano opened a few months ago Near Palazzo Vecchio, in the heart of in the center of Florence near the the historical center of Florence, the famed Santa Maria Novella church tradition of Italian ice cream meets the TO SHOP: Desigual store and exclusive shopping hub Via New Yorker style at 7 Brothers, the city’s The first official Desigual store in Tornabuoni. Furnished with four-poster new ice cream parlor. Florence is located in the historical city beds and fireplaces in a Renaissance In a modern twist, ice cream can be center, in a new fashion district near style, each of the 10 rooms is specially personalized freely. Ponte Vecchio, the Medieval designed with its own frescoes and Each customer starts stone bridge on the Arno River. colors. The suites overlook the roof Stretch jeans. a “route” from the The 1,884-square-foot store garden brimming with plants, including choice of waffle cone is located in a former bank and mimosa, oak and cork trees. or cup, steps into the the original structure of the The palace, built in the 16th century, on the production chain of Italian flavors’ selection area building creates three different houses an archive sure to be a draw denim, its international reach and and concludes with areas characterized by a fun for those interested in the history the new opportunities in the global different garnishes design. The first part of the market. Previewed during Pitti Uomo from jam, fresh store has a ceiling covered in June, the project will take place as fruit and grains to with bottles, gliding panels and A room at Al Palazzo del an exhibition-event at Pitti Filati next chocolate chips and quirky wallpaper; a second Marchese di Camugliano. month and then move on to Milano cookies, among others. room is decorated with flowers Unica in September. As a guarantee hanging from the ceiling, and Under the artistic direction of of high quality, the the third, more elegant corner fashion designers Angelo Figus and raw materials are Building a personal treat. is marked by a huge modern art Maurizio Brocchetto, “Denim Italiano” rigorously all Italian chandelier. will showcase several garments and and customers serve accessories in denim. The items come themselves directly from the machines. Desigual Florence Santa Maria from a wardrobe specifically created 41R, Via Porta Santa Maria for the project by a group of 30 Italian 7 Brothers Hours: Monday to Sunday from 9:30 a.m. denim companies — textile mills, 63-65, Viale della Condotta to 8:30 p.m. apparel and accessories manufacturers, Hours: Monday to Wednesday from 11 Tel.: +39-055-2654-464 embroidery shops and laundries — that a.m. to 11 p.m.; Thursday and Sunday Web: desigual.com 8 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 24, 2014

TEXTILES Next Gen Yarn Makers Fueling Industry Pinori Filati is a family-run company By SOFIA CELESTE laria Taddeucci Sassolini Lincoln that is headed by Raffaella Pinori, the and her sister Chiara. Germanetti daughter of the company’s founder. As a PRATO SESIA, Italy — Lincoln child, she followed her parents to work

Germanetti has technically worked for and often did her homework with the the family business since he was about clamoring sounds of yarn machines in nine years old, selling the company’s the background. Pinori later helped her yarn samples to his friends at school, father during trade shows by working as his doctor, his own grandmother and ba- the front-desk hostess. Now 45, she is ceo sically anyone else who would listen to of the company.

his sales pitch. “I think that I have infused the compa- At 39, following the death of his father ny with a more fashion-oriented image,” last year, he is now chief executive offi- Pinori said. “Without losing the expertise cer of the Tollegno 1900 group, the com- and tradition of our history, today we are pany his family purchased in 1985. a company that is more focused on fash- “I’m more sales-oriented and my fa- ion and appeal of collections.” ther was a true industrialist,” Germanetti She hopes to’’ grow the company’s said in an interview from his office in a business in foreign markets like China, small town in the northern Italian re- where there are emerging designers and gion of Piedmont. “He had sort of a sixth new opportunities. sense for things, from buying [intimates Nearby, Lanificio dell’Olivo is a company] Ragno at the right time, to pro- yarn company that prides itself on ducing and selling in foreign markets, to an over-100-year-old heritage. After having a real connection with the prod- Ilaria Taddeucci Sassolini, Lanificio uct. He really had an eye for yarns.” dell’Olivo’s commercial director, gradu- Despite Italy’s swollen unemployment ated from college, she traveled to Hong rate, which in April rose to an overall Kong to build a rapport with the agents 12.6 percent and saw its under-25-year- that sold her father’s products. old index hit an alarming 43.3 percent, Around the same time, her sister, there is a generational passing of the country’s unemployment problem a pri- commercial, finance or marketing side.” Chiara, obtained a degree in econom- torch taking place among family-run ority. He is also focusing on loosening the Confindustria estimates that nearly all ics and business and went on to pursue Italian yarn firms. The companies that rules on job security to reinvigorate the of Italy’s yarn companies in the textile- have survived the worst of the financial labor force, which for the most part is rich regions like Prato in Tuscany are crisis are seeing a more Internet-savvy, dominated by older males. family run. internationally educated and commer- “Every generation is more modern Tollegno 1900, whose yarn unit, In the past, there cially minded younger generation bring than the last,” said Saida Petrelli, exter- Lanificio di Tollegno, makes 100 per- expansion plans forward and push their nal communications director of the Prato cent natural yarns for internationally was an emphasis products in places like China and Japan. branch of Confindustria, Italy’s industrial recognized apparel brands, also owns Italy’s new 39-year-old prime minis- association. “In the past, there was an the Ragno and Julipet intimates com- on production ter, Matteo Renzi, has made solving the emphasis on production more than the panies and the Tollegno 1900 high-end apparel brands. After studying in Los Angeles and more than the spending some time to work in sales in France, Germanetti took the helm commercial, finance at the Ragno division in 2001. Since he started, sales rose from about 10 mil- or marketing side. lion euros, or $8.84 million, to about 50 million euros, or $68.5 million, — SAIDA PETRELLI, today. Along with his younger brothers, Germanetti built Ragno’s e-commerce CONFINDUSTRIA Web site, which generates sales tanta- mount to those of a monobrand Ragno a master’s degree at Parsons School of store. Other changes within the com- Design in New York. Chiara now leads pany credited to the ceo are the photo- the design team and is in charge of re- voltaic panels installed on the rooftops searching trends. The sisters run the of Ragno’s warehouses and plans for company together and are focused on an art foundation involving the work growing its sales in the U.S., Japan, of young contemporary artists commis- China and Hong Kong, and develop- sioned to interpret the firm’s old and ing the business further in Russia and new campaigns. South America. “For years, I worked with my father “The Internet helped us a lot, but and participated in the business af- what really made the difference was the fairs of all our companies,” he said. energy we invested in developing new “We worked closely and talked regu- products, special colors…and’’ fabrics that larly about all the companies’ issues are made to measure in terms of patterns and problems.” and colors, and an overall rapid, almost Overall, Tollegno and the textile and tailor-made service,” Ilaria Taddeucci apparel brands in its portfolio booked Sassolini said. 140 million euros, or $191.8 million, in In 2013, Lanificio dell’Olivo boosted sales in 2013. Germanetti sees sales ris- its sales to 21 million euros, or $28.8 mil- ing about 10 to 12 percent in 2014. lion, from 20 million euros, or $27.4 mil- Germanetti’s goals include boost- lion, in 2012. ing its Web site and sales in markets like Greater China, The Pinori mill. which he visits sev- eral times a year to showcase new yarns and textiles at trade fairs and meet with factory owners who produce for major American brands. Meanwhile, in the Tuscan textile heartland of Prato, Pinori Filati, a com- pany that had sales of 12.5 million euros, or $17.1 million, in 2013, is building a reputation for mak- ing combed yarns and recycled yarns from old jeans.

w24a008a;6.indd 8 6/23/14 5:35 PM 06232014173604 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 24, 2014 9 WWD.COM OBITUARIES good ones I had I gave away when I cleaned Gustave out my closet, but there were many.” Tassell in Tassell’s designs have been includ- 1967. ed in exhibitions at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the Philadelphia Gustave Tassell, 88 Museum of Art as well as The Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising. Norman Norell had been one of In 2003, Woodbury University’s fashion By MARCY MEDINA and Tassell’s earliest influences, and when school honored him with an award for ROSEMARY FEITELBERG Norell died in 1972, Tassell moved to his body of work. New York to run Norell’s fashion house Tassell is survived by his sister, the ac- GUSTAVE TASSELL, the Coty Award- until 1976. tress Rebecca Welles. winning designer who created clothes Tassell’s design aesthetic was what Adolfo described Tassell as “a very for Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis and he called “a subtle form of chic,” time- pleasant and jovial person” whom he Princess Grace of Monaco, died in Los less and streamlined pieces that never became friendly with through Norell. Angeles on June 9 of complications looked dated. In the Sixties and Seventies, the three from Alzheimer’s disease. He was 88. In a 1969 New York Times interview, men, along with John Moore, would occa- Among Tassell’s most famous looks Betsy Bloomingdale famously recalled sionally have dinner together at Norell’s were the streamlined dresses he de- a white cotton dress by Tassell she had Midtown apartment where fashion was signed for Kennedy Onassis’ goodwill owned for 12 years. “I still wheel it out the main course of conversation. tour of India in 1962. every summer and get compliments on it “I was beginning to design on my own Tassell, who was born in every time,” she said. and I didn’t have much to say. I was inter- Philadelphia and studied painting at On Monday, Bloomingdale said, ested to hear a lot of what he had to say the Pennsylvania Academy of Fine Arts, “Darling, I don’t remember how many about fashion. He had been around [the got his entrée into fashion when he dresses [by Tassell] I owned.…Most of the industry]. I was interested in what all of began working in the advertising and them had to say,” Adolfo said. display department for Hattie Carnegie Ralph Rucci met Tassell when he in the Forties. In 1952, he moved to arrived in New York and was looking Paris, where he made sketches for cou- for a job in 1977. After paying Tassell DIERNHAMMER/WWD ARCHIVE FRANK turiers such as Geneviève Fath. At the a visit in the very chic room in the

suggestion of his contemporary, James Fifth Avenue hotel he was showing in, PHOTO BY Galanos, Tassell moved to Los Angeles Tassell picked up the phone and called in 1956 to start his own label. Geoffrey Beene directly to make an ap- Designers of America in order to “fur- “He was part of that clique of pointment for Rucci. “It was such a kind ther the position of fashion design as Los Angeles designers that included thing to do,” said Rucci, who reconnect- a recognized branch of American art Richard Blackwell, James Galanos, ed with Tassell years later through their and culture” and “to advance its artis- Charles Cooper and Nolan Miller,” said mutual friend Galanos. tic and professional standards.” When California Fashion Association presi- In October of 1962, Sen. Claiborne its charter was filed on Dec. 6, 1962, dent Ilse Metchek, who met Tassell and Pell (D., R.I.), chairman of a spe- Tassell, along with Bill Blass, Donald his cohorts when they all worked in the cial subcommittee on the arts of the Brooks, Betty Carol, Jane Derby, Luis same showroom building in Los Angeles’ Committee on Public Welfare, and Estevez and Rudi Gernreich, was garment district. “They really drove the Sen. Jacob Javits (R., N.Y.) had invited among the 20 founding designers. market at what is now called the red- fashion’s leading publicist of that time, Former CFDA president Stan carpet level. It was demi-couture driven Eleanor Lambert, to appear at an open Herman said Monday, “He was one of by Hollywood, and Gus was more the day- hearing on the establishment of an arts the most respected designers of my era. time side of the glitz and glam. He was council, which eventually became the People loved his clothes, but he was also very charming and soft-spoken, and Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis PICTURES/GETTY LIFE IMAGES RICKERBY/TIME National Endowment for the Arts in such a low-key guy. I think he spent a lot one of the best-looking ones.” (His looks wearing one of Tassell’s designs ART 1965. At the senators’ urging, Lambert of time in Philadelphia [his hometown]. also won him a cameo in Woody Allen’s on a trip to Pakistan in 1962. rallied a group of designers behind He didn’t play the game the way a lot of

1980 film “Stardust Memories.”) BY PHOTO her to establish the Council of Fashion other people do.”

richest men — according to this year’s Sunday Times Paula Kent Meehan Rich List, Dennis was Britain’s 199th richest person, Felix Dennis, 67 with a fortune of 500 million pounds, or $850 million. Dennis Publishing’s current titles include The Week, Men’s Fitness, MacUser and Bizarre. By NINA JONES In recent years, Dennis had forged a second ca- reer path as a poet. According to Dennis’ Web site, FELIX DENNIS, the colorful British publisher, died he began to write poetry in 1999, while recovering Sunday at the age of 67. from an illness. His published poetry includes “This His company, Dennis Publishing, said Dennis died Is the Way of the World,” a volume published earli- “surrounded by his loved ones…peacefully at his er this month with the aim of “charting life’s course home in Dorsington [in Warwickshire, England],” fol- from birth through to death,” and “When Jack Sued lowing “a long and painful bat- Jill — Nursery Rhymes for tle with cancer.” The company Modern Times,” published added: “Felix was a publishing Felix Dennis in 2006. He also penned his legend, famed for his maverick in 1971. own take on self-help titles and entrepreneurial style and, — “How to Get Rich,” was more lately, a successful and published in 2006, followed much-loved poet. He will be by “How to Make Money” in greatly missed.” 2011. He called the former Dennis’ foray into publish- the opposite of “messianic ing was as a coeditor of the self-improvement manuals,” U.K. edition of counterculture advising readers that compa- magazine Oz. In 1971, Dennis nies “are not your ‘babies,’ Paula Kent Meehan, 82 gained notoriety when he and they are tools for acquiring the title’s cofounders, Richard wealth. Try to sell them be- Neville and Jim Anderson, fore they peak.” By JAYME CYK stood trial in London for ob- Dennis made a cameo scenity over an explicit car- appearance last year in PAULA KENT MEEHAN, cofounder of Redken, died toon that appeared in the mag- “Liberty of London,” a docu- Monday at her home in Beverly Hills. azine. While he was initially mentary that aired on the Kent Meehan, 82, established the “Scientific jailed, he was acquitted by the U.K.’s Channel 4 about the Approach to Beauty” concept based on her dedication High Court of Appeal in 1973. London department store. to developing products that respect the natural pH of Later in 1973, he founded Dennis was a longtime cus- the hair and skin. She also was a forerunner in teach- Dennis Publishing. The com- tomer of Liberty, and re-

ing chemistry to hairdressers, enabling them to better pany started with a Bruce IMAGES STANDARD/GETTY ferred to it as his “corner serve their clients. Lee fanzine called Kung-Fu shop.” Ashley Boyd, head of With her business partner Jheri Redding, the duo Monthly, but Dennis went on service and private clients EVENING launched Redken in 1960 with an initial investment to publish specialist titles with at Liberty, described Dennis

that Kent Meehan received for starring in a Hamm’s a focus on personal comput- FROM as “incredibly interesting, beer commercial. ers. Dennis was also one of kind-hearted and an overall The company was sold to Cosmair Inc., (now called the pioneers of lad magazines, PHOTO true gentleman.” She related L’Oréal USA) in 1993. launching Maxim in 1995 in a that once when Dennis had In April, Kent Meehan bought the Beverly Hills bid to “take on [lad magazines] Loaded and FHM,” ordered a table from the store, he offered to “carry Courier weekly newspaper from its original owner. according to his personal Web site. In 2007, Dennis it home himself.” “For someone of such affluence, Additionally, she was one of the largest donors to the sold its U.S. arm, including the U.S. editions of we were in awe of how modest and unpretentious he Beverly Hills 9/11 Memorial Garden. Maxim, Stuff and Blender, to the private equity group was,” said Boyd. Kent Meehan married John E. Meehan in 1973. He Quadrangle for around $240 million. Dennis’ publish- Dennis is survived by his long-term partner, Marie- died in 2004. ing business had helped to make him one of Britain’s France Demolis. 10 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 24, 2014

Lela Rose Christopher Kane Mary Katrantzou Dsquared2

pattern.

: Gilles Mendel channeled a French chic vibe for resort at J.Mendel with white silk shirts with ties, short pleated skirts and colorful suiting done in printed jacquards. Little black dresses came in several versions, from flirty with a high waist and flutter skirt, to sophisticated via a straight silhouette and tweed and jacquard paneling. Shiny beading was thrown into the mix, worked all over on a striped T-shirt gown and on simple tank tops that Mendel said could “go with anything.”

: Naming his resort collection “Moor’s Chorus,” Hussein Chalayan developed a series of patterns inspired by the architecture and culture of southern Spain and North Africa — and by the idea of the “Moorish gaze,” when secret areas are viewed through small apertures. He worked the far-flung idea into fluid silk dresses in prints inspired by the geometric pattern of trees and even a an irrigation system, while lightweight cotton dresses featured motifs of zucchini flowers — as seen through a keyhole. He also had dresses in strong solids, which appeared to be sculpted at the neck or around the bodice thanks to a special bonding technique.

: Inspired by jaunts to Bali, Cuba and the Maldives, Matthew Williamson said he tapped into his “escapist sensibilities” for resort, channeling the idea into a collection of color-drenched looks for both hot and cool climes. Thus there were girlish smock dresses done in dégradé shades of pink and orange, gowns in butterfly-wing motifs and more wintry fare including a double-breasted, belted jacket in a basket- weavelike jacquard that came frayed and textured at the sleeves.

: Jay Godfrey looked at resort as a chance to continue the story he began for fall, namely what would rock ’n’ roll daughters want to wear? Out came his sexy suits in a lightweight snake-print jacquard, fit-and-flare dresses featuring cutouts and colorblocking, and a sweet romper in ice blue tweed.

: Lace was the cornerstone of Yoana Baraschi’s collection. The handiwork was cut and placed as accents on silk blouses in pop colors and came as prints on crepe tops and pants. Baraschi also accented basics with colorblocking and bits of fringe and beading for a more-is-more message.

FOR MORE IMAGES, SEE WWD.com/ runway.

Mary Katrantzou: Taking her a high-waisted lamé and silver fabric for a cool take on a signature colorful motifs, from cues from the alphabet, Mary jacquard maxiskirt, while an thermal runner’s blanket. a short tunic to a fitted dress Katrantzou’s resort collection embroidered leather jacket with a back cutout. Inspired by was a riot of laces, embroidery topped a pair of flared beige Tsumori Chisato: Tsumori a Sardinian carpet, he also had Resort 2015 and flocking that riffed on canvas pants. The designers Chisato looked to Greece for a knitted and fringed minidress, letters. Looks ran from a maintained their glam, sexy resort, turning out a fresh and while other short frocks were Lela Rose: Echoing the resort his Central Saint Martins M.A. diaphanous purple tulle pencil feel, especially with the cutout summery collection. Often embellished with eyelet mantra, Lela Rose said, “This graduate show in 2006. This time, skirt and cardigan pairing, the swimsuit featuring oversize translating her inspiration embroideries. Silk dresses is a seasonless season... he worked the hues on clean, outfit adorned with a flocked gold lacing up its front. into prints, this time she with tie-dye prints added to the clothes that easily go from pared-back silhouettes including pattern of glittery green letters, showed a multitude of blue- lineup’s fresh summer feel. day to dinner.” The designer black crepe slip dresses with to a guipure lace dress in Richard Nicoll: Richard Nicoll and-white stripes on knit worked lace into her all- flounces of neon pink netting purple and orange, worked in said he wanted to merge the dresses and skirts, along Roberto Cavalli: Model Veruschka purpose approach, showing and a skirt-and-cardigan combo patterns of letters along with ideas of “embracing the future with hand-painted waves and in the Seventies inspired it subtly in black and white in neon yellow chiffon edged in whales, rabbits and leaves. but also slowing down,” with his dolphins on dresses, skirts Roberto Cavalli for resort. Fluid on a skirt with a crisp white wide strips of black lace. She also mixed in more muted easy, laid-back resort collection and jackets. A village motif silhouettes took center stage shirt and pink jacket, and all Kane’s inventive fabrics designs, such as a white shell that focused on hand-worked was recolored with primary in the lineup, which included over on sheaths in pink or were standouts. He custom- top and pink shorts done in and technical fabrics. A crisp, colors for a Fifties effect, a crepe de chine blouse with blue. There were also dotted designed a psychedelic- a brocade embossed with a blue-and-white pin-striped while big sun embroideries metallic grommet and plissé sweaters with long and knee- looking guipure fabric that pattern of graphic letters. shirt and matching shorts were were used on white tulle tops details, and was shown with length skirts and charming featured drawings of flowers dip-dyed using the Japanese and long dresses. languid satin pants. The designer printed cotton A-line dresses. from different eras — i.e., Dsquared2: For their Dsquared2 Shibori technique. They were also had several maxidresses, an intricate Art Nouveau collection, Dean and Dan Caten shown with a bomber jacket Emilio Pucci: Peter Dundas such as a satin drawstring style Christopher Kane: Christopher motif and cartoonish Sixties got in a Seventies-inspired done in a digital, lacquered injected a Sixties’ vibe into printed with dots in different Kane said he gleaned his resort florals — and was used for a mood with flared silhouettes version of the Shibori work. his pretty Emilio Pucci resort sizes. Sparkle came via a silk inspiration from the lace and sleeveless dress and patches and opulent materials. A Meanwhile, Nicoll worked collection. Sailor Breton stripes georgette minidress sequined in neon pieces he designed for on jeans. fluid silk blouse came with a Crombie coat in a crinkly were shown with the brand’s an Okabi pattern.

w24a010(11)a;8.indd 1 6/23/14 7:15 PM 06232014191723 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 24, 2014 11 WWD.COM

Dsquared2 Richard Tsumori Emilio Roberto J.Mendel Nicoll Chisato Pucci Cavalli AVESI P Trademark Chalayan Matthew Jay Yoana Williamson Godfrey Baraschi GIOVANNA BY CAVALLI ED2 AND R SQUA D ONE; CC ANNA I HOMAS T

BY HI C AS R A B SEN; CK I ER

KYLE BY EY R CHINSEE; GODF E RG GEO BY PHOTO

ROSE

signature colorful motifs, from J.Mendel: Gilles Mendel small apertures. He worked gowns in butterfly-wing motifs Baraschi also accented basics a short tunic to a fitted dress channeled a French chic vibe the far-flung idea into fluid and more wintry fare including with colorblocking and bits of with a back cutout. Inspired by for resort at J.Mendel with white silk dresses in prints inspired a double-breasted, belted jacket fringe and beading for a more- a Sardinian carpet, he also had silk shirts with ties, short pleated by the geometric pattern of in a basket-weavelike jacquard is-more message. a knitted and fringed minidress, skirts and colorful suiting done trees and even a an irrigation that came frayed and textured while other short frocks were in printed jacquards. Little black system, while lightweight at the sleeves. Trademark: “We always start embellished with eyelet dresses came in several versions, cotton dresses featured motifs with the fabric and think of embroideries. Silk dresses from flirty with a high waist and of zucchini flowers — as seen Jay Godfrey: Jay Godfrey looked a new way of using it,” said with tie-dye prints added to the flutter skirt, to sophisticated via through a keyhole. He also had at resort as a chance to Pookie Burch, who designs lineup’s fresh summer feel. a straight silhouette and tweed dresses in strong solids, which continue the story he began Trademark with her sister and jacquard paneling. appeared to be sculpted at for fall, namely what would Louisa. For resort, the duo Roberto Cavalli: Model Veruschka Shiny beading was thrown the neck or around the bodice rock ’n’ roll daughters want used a coated cotton for a in the Seventies inspired into the mix, worked all over on thanks to a special bonding to wear? Out came his sexy gingham dress and coat, Roberto Cavalli for resort. Fluid a striped T-shirt gown and on technique. suits in a lightweight snake- for example. The latter silhouettes took center stage simple tank tops that Mendel print jacquard, fit-and-flare featured X-stitch details, in the lineup, which included said could “go with anything.” Matthew Williamson: Inspired by dresses featuring cutouts and which Pookie Burch said a crepe de chine blouse with jaunts to Bali, Cuba and the colorblocking, and a sweet were inspired by artist Wade metallic grommet and plissé Chalayan: Naming his resort Maldives, Matthew Williamson romper in ice blue tweed. Guyton’s work. There were details, and was shown with collection “Moor’s Chorus,” said he tapped into his also preppy touches via a languid satin pants. The designer Hussein Chalayan developed a “escapist sensibilities” for Yoana Baraschi: Lace was plaid hooded midi dress. A also had several maxidresses, series of patterns inspired by resort, channeling the idea into the cornerstone of Yoana playful transparent rain jacket such as a satin drawstring style the architecture and culture a collection of color-drenched Baraschi’s collection. The featured with red piping. This printed with dots in different of southern Spain and North looks for both hot and cool handiwork was cut and placed is the second season for the sizes. Sparkle came via a silk Africa — and by the idea of the climes. Thus there were girlish as accents on silk blouses in designers, who are set to open georgette minidress sequined in “Moorish gaze,” when secret smock dresses done in dégradé pop colors and came as prints their first store in Manhattan’s an Okabi pattern. areas are viewed through shades of pink and orange, on crepe tops and pants. SoHo in August.

w24a010(11)a;8.indd 2 6/23/14 7:16 PM 06232014191727 12 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 24, 2014

[companies, the management team and boards] don’t ensure Mark Bozek Installed as ShopHQ CEO that business is being run well, will vote against you.” president and chief merchandising one that I suspect many in the be more willing to listen to the While activism isn’t new, it By VICKI M. YOUNG officer of Saks Fifth Avenue; Bob e-commerce space would relish. ideas and criticisms of investors. certainly seems to be in vogue as Rosenblatt, former interim presi- The opportunities are bound- “This is unusual in that the investors push for the creation of SCORE ONE for The Clinton dent of flash-sales site Ideeli.com less, and I am especially thrilled company and the board flat-out shareholder value. Earlier this Group. and former group president and to have Ron Frasch as a member refused to make the changes year, activist investor Engaged The activist investor firm chief operating officer of Tommy of our board of directors.” we were recommending, to the Capital pushed for new board successfully forced change at Hilfiger Corp.; Fred Siegel, former Bozek, who was also previ- point where it made sense for members at Abercrombie & Fitch. ValueVision Media Inc., from new senior vice president and market- ously a senior vice president at Chairman Arthur Martinez board members to a new chief ex- ing head for QVC, and Tom Beers, QVC, was clear on his priority said shortly after he was named ecutive officer: Mark Bozek. ceo of Fremantle Media NA. as the new ceo of ShopHQ: “In to the A&F board, “We will pro- The Clinton Group and the for- The five join three exist- a business that’s completely on pose a slate to our shareholders. mer board at ValueVision, which ing ValueVision board mem- dollars per minute generated by What our activist friend chooses operates the TV and Internet bers who were reelected: John the sale of merchandise, among to do, he will do. We will continue shopping site ShopHQ, had been Buck, non-executive chairman the initial focuses will be gener- to evolve and grow this board in locked in a bitter battle for board of Medica; Landel Hobbs, ceo ating as many brands and prod- terms of its capabilities.” Martinez change since November. of LCH Enterprises LLC, and ucts that deliver more dollars also emphasized that he was hav- That battle included a proxy Lowell W. Robinson, former per minute than ever before.” ing ongoing dialogues with all fight in which proxy-advisory chief financial officer and chief The Clinton Group, like investors. A&F and Engage have firms Glass Lewis and ISS — in operating officer of MIVA Inc., other activist investors, invests since settled their issues and a a rare move — supported either and most recently a director of in public firms that aren’t man- mutually agreed-upon slate was the majority or the entire slate The Jones Group from 2005 until aged optimally. ValueVision’s presented to the shareholders at of board nominees recommend- earlier this year when Sycamore ShopHQ site was once known as Mark its annual meeting on Thursday. ed by The Clinton Group. Partners completed its acquisi- Shop NBC. It sells merchandise Bozek Looking ahead, there’s some That fight ended last week tion of the apparel firm. in the fashion, accessories and jockeying for position as un- at the company’s annual meet- Ousted board members in- beauty categories. us to go to fellow sharehold- happy founders at Lululemon ing of shareholders in which clude former ceo Keith Stewart, Gregory P. Taxin, managing di- ers to determine whether they Athletica Inc. and American investors voted in favor of five Jill Botway, William Evans, Sean rector at The Clinton Group, said, would support the changes we Apparel Inc. are expressing from the slate proposed by The Orr and Randy Ronning. “We thought [ValueVision] was were looking for, and that’s what their displeasure over decisions Clinton Group. The final tally The reconstituted ValueVision a clear-cut case for change. The made this [become] a more pub- at the board level. While a differ- of all votes wasn’t immediately board on Sunday unanimously overwhelming number of profes- lic fight than usual,” Taxin said. ent animal from an activist ini- available. The five new mem- elected Bozek as the company’s sional investors who voted in this Taxin added that there’s a tiating the agitation for change, bers give The Clinton Group ceo. Rosenblatt was named non- proxy fight voted for change. The lesson to be learned in the case activists could get involved if majority control of the eight- executive chairman. vote was not a close call.” of ValueVision: “This is a warn- either Lululemon’s Chip Wilson member ValueVision board. Bozek said of his new posi- Taxin noted that the old man- ing to companies that are not or American Apparel’s Dov Those five include Bozek, for- tion, “For anyone in retail that agement team and board “fought performing well, and to man- Charney can muster support mer ceo of HSN Inc., which oper- operates in the multichannel very hard, and spent much of agement teams and boards that from investors who agree that ates Home Shopping Network, and space, the opportunity to have the company’s money to keep are not thinking objectively or they have the best vision for cofounder of e-commerce platform access to over 87 million homes their tenure,” and said that in independently about sharehold- creating additional value at the Evine.com; Ronald Frasch, former is a tremendous advantage, and general, most companies tend to er value. Shareholders, if you company each has founded.

of shoes downstairs. “You’re not a 365-day-a-year platform for going to cut off your best custom- brands to tell their story. “Not The Eruption of Disruption er,” she said. Rent the Runway has only did we need to disrupt our taken away “the worst customers business model, but in a business mousetrap? Did they see a fatal past 10 to 15 years. People have of department stores” and is giving that has history and legacy, the By LISA LOCKWOOD flaw in the competitive environ- flat-screen TVs, are using Spotify, young women exposure to design- first thing you have to do is dis- ment that they sought to exploit? Netflix, Seamless and Fresh ers whose dresses cost thousands rupt your culture,” she said. NEW YORK — Agents of change Neil Blumenthal, founder and Direct. The only thing that hasn’t of dollars. She feels that she’s dis- “We don’t even use the word don’t cut it anymore. Nor, ap- ceo of Warby Parker, the eyeglass changed is one’s closet, she said. rupting the closet. ‘channel.’ We say we have a parently, do mere innovators, brand, said the impetus for his It’s still archaic and stuffed Charron asked whether she 360-degree network of experienc- outliers, mavericks, visionaries, company was that he saw a pro- with junk, she said. Hyman point- feels that Rent the Runway is es,” she said. Grossman explained risk-takers, rebels and category cess of buying eyeglasses that was ed out that the average American disrupting department stores be- that HSN will use technology to killers. Now, in the lexicon of cor- not enjoyable. He explained that buys 64 new articles a year, and cause they’re taking sales away create a frictionless experience. porate-speak, it’s all about “dis- a customer would find a pair of while apparel is a $210 billion- from them. Hyman responded “We had to break the mold of the ruption.” And until executives glasses they were excited about a-year business, half of it is worn that Rent the Runway’s aver- company. I’ll never forget the sec- are done disrupting everything and the prices get “marked up two times or less. “There is tril- age age is 29, where the average ond day at the company, when I in sight — and there’s nothing left and up and you walk out feeling lions of dollars of inventory sitting age of the Nordstrom, Neiman got up and said, ‘We are not a TV to disrupt except disruption itself beaten.” He wanted to create an in a woman’s closet that is not uti- Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue shopping channel and we are not — the concept remains the 2014 experience that was fun. “How lized,” said Hyman. She said when customer is above 50, she said. a catalogue business.’” She said buzzword for the seminar set. Hyman said between August the biggest detriment to business Chief executive officers and November, she’s planning to today are silos, because that be- from Warby Parker, Rent the open three Rent the Runway lo- havior won’t serve the customer Runway and Shapeways 3-D cations, but wouldn’t specify their well. “The past eight years, we Printers squared off with ceo’s locations when asked after the disrupted our business model at from HSNi and Ascena Retail discussion. least four times. We created a cul- Group Inc. (Lane Bryant, Dress Peter Weijmarshausen, ceo ture where risk-taking is encour- Barn, Maurice’s, Justice’s and of Shapeways 3-D Printers, re- aged. Failing fast is encouraged Catherine’s) in a Fashion Group called when he heard about a as well,” she said. The new man- International panel discussion new technology that allowed tra in her company is “Agile is the titled “Disrupters vs. Disruptees” people to design something on new smart.” Not just technology on Friday morning. The discus- their computer and turn it into is changing things, consumer be- sion was moderated by Paul a physical product. After testing havior is changing, too, she said. Charron, chairman of the board it with his friends, “I saw the en- “Everybody’s calling it an Amazon of Campbell Soup Co. and former thusiasm for it and it clicked for world. It’s kind of like an Uber ceo of Liz Claiborne Inc. me. Why do prototypes, when you world. Everybody wants every- Robin Lewis, ceo of The Robin can do final products?” he said. thing on demand and personal-

Report, started the discussion, JOHN AQUINO He recalled when the iPad came ized and customized for them.” talking about disrupters who come Standing: Paul Charron, David Jaffe, Peter Weijmarshausen, Robin Lewis. out on a Friday, it took four days Another disruptee, David into a specific market and screw Seated: Jennifer Hyman, Mindy Grossman and Neil Blumenthal. for an independent designer to Jaffe, president and ceo of Ascena everything up by doing something PHOTO BY figure out how to make an iPad Retail Group Inc., said his compa- different and create a whole new cover, design it on their computer ny was challenged to understand game. He pointed to firms such do we make it as entertaining as she came up with the idea to rent and put it on the market. whether e-commerce was a trend as Gilt Groupe, Uber, Amazon, possible to simplify prices to bring dresses, she called ceo’s of various Even though she was on the or a fad. “We looked at it early Facebook and Tesla Motors, which them down?” He said he starting department stores to see what they disruptee side, Mindy Grossman, on and had to make sure we’d continue to change the retail offering eyewear at $95, compared thought of her idea. Return rates ceo of HSNi, a publicly traded be involved. Some of the brands scene in one way or another. He with retail stores that were charg- at department stores are “enor- company, spoke about how she’s got in earlier than others, and offered a few points of strategic ing $500, $600 and $700. They were mously high,” she said, and spe- disrupted the publicly traded some got in from the back door advice: One is to know that a dis- able to cut out traditional retail- cial occasion has more than a 50 company. “There is no formula through catalogues,” he said. The ruptive model can be knocked off ers, sell below wholesale prices percent return rate from women anymore.” She said when she company has 4,000 stores. They in a nanosecond, and if one has a and work directly with manufac- who actually wear the dress be- joined the company, she saw figured out if they could marshal truly disruptive model, “scale it as turers. He started the business fore returning it. She noted that changes in consumer behavior all that infrastructure they could fast as you can” so copycat compa- with $120,000, he pointed out. the number-one return day is Jan. and technology “that was going come up with a better version of nies can’t catch up. Jennifer Hyman, ceo and 2 after women wear their dresses to transform everything they do.” omnichannel. Jaffe pointed out Charron asked the represen- founder of Rent the Runway, said on New Year’s Eve. “Department For many years, HSN was a lin- that the company just opened an tative Disrupters what their vi- when a consumer thinks about stores cannot stop the behavior,” ear television model. Now it’s in e-commerce fulfillment center sion was at the outset and were their apartment, every aspect she said. That’s because these cus- an environment where content and is looking to have a better om- they looking to build a better has completely changed over the tomers often just bought 10 pairs crosses many areas. She offers nichannel solution. WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 24, 2014 13 WWD.COM Target Said Decreasing Lululemon’s Wilson Mulls Move have declined comment. Citi analyst By ARNOLD J. KARR Oliver Chen said an acquisition by a stra- Orders From Cambodia tegic buyer would likely fetch between LULULEMON ATHLETICA INC. founder $51 and $63 a share. {Continued from page one} “We are working with the ILO and Chip Wilson’s unsuccessful attempt to Wilson said prior to the annual meet- on thousands of workers, leaving five sitting down with the World Bank to shake up the board at the company’s an- ing that he is enthusiastic about the com- dead and injuring more than 40. The do a scientific calculation on what the nual meeting last week was apparently pany’s new management “that I helped violence against garment workers has number should be,” he said. “Is it $160 just the first salvo in a campaign to redi- put in place,” but was “concerned that not only caused a backlash among U.S. or should it be $200, or should it be rect the firm he founded 16 years ago. the board is not aligned with the core buyers, but it has also raised the scru- $157? Before, we just pulled the num- The embattled yoga apparel maker’s values of product and innovation on tiny of the Obama administration. ber out of the air…but now we have to shares Monday rose $1.02, or 2.5 percent, which Lululemon was founded and on Chanthol said he met with U.S. do it properly.” to close at $41.25 on indications Wilson is which the company thrived. As a 27 per- Trade Representative Michael Chanthol noted that a major factor weighing options to change the company’s cent shareholder in the company, I be- Froman on Thursday to discuss a po- in considering whether to increase management or even lieve change is now tential bilateral investment treaty. The the minimum wage rate again is glob- its ownership. needed at the board U.S. and Cambodia agreed to begin al competitiveness. Wilson, who holds level to increase exploratory discussions of a potential “When we do this, we want to make 27.7 percent of the shareholder value.” BIT in 2012. sure Cambodia is still competitive,” company’s stock, failed He characterized A USTR spokesman told WWD that Chanthol said. “ Yo u cannot price in his effort to unseat the board as being Froman raised concerns about the yourself out of the market. If you say non-executive chair- 27.7% “heavily weighted to- Jan. 3 violence that killed five garment $160 or $200, then [buyers] will say man Michael Casey THE AMOUNT OF LULULEMON wards short-term re- workers and the reported subsequent ‘Look, I’m going to Myanmar,’” be- and director RoAnn STOCK OWNED BY CHIP WILSON. sults at the expense crackdown by the’’ Cambodian govern- cause they pay a lower wage. Costin from their seats of product, culture ment on the right to demonstrate and A group of representatives from on Lululemon’s board and brand and longer- freedom of association. The spokesman 30 major clothing brands and in- at the firm’s annual meeting in Vancouver term corporate goals.” did not respond to whether the violence ternational trade unions met with on June 11. He did not contest the reelec- Wilson founded Lululemon in 1998 and repression has hurt Cambodia’s Cambodia’s deputy prime minister tion of Laurent Potdevin, who succeeded and only relinquished the chair of prospects for a BIT with the U.S. late last month to discuss concerns Christine Day as chief executive officer of the Vancouver-based firm prior to this Chanthol said the government’s about violence and labor unrest, and the firm following a search in which Wilson month’s annual meeting. While hardly hope is that a BIT will serve as a step- stress the importance of stability in was personally involved. as controversial a figure as Dov Charney, ping stone for the country to potential- the garment sector. At the meeting, Potdevin received 118.8 the recently ousted founder and ceo of ly join the Trans-Pacific Partnership It was the second meeting since million affirmative votes for his election American Apparel Inc., he complicated talks between the U.S. and 11 other the violence began on Jan. 3. Major to the board while Casey and Costin each Lululemon’s public relations difficulties countries, including Vietnam, buyers, including H&M, Levi’s, Gap, received 79.7 million votes. Wilson owns when, in the midst of a recall of its overly Malaysia, Japan and Singapore. Inditex and Puma, have pressed for an 40.2 million shares of Lululemon, ac- sheer black Luon yoga pants last year, he “Cambodia is not a party to TPP, but end to the violence and a methodology cording to the company’s definitive proxy said that the pants weren’t right for “some it doesn’t mean we do not want to be a for calculating the minimum wage. filed with the Securities and Exchange women’s bodies.” Commission in April. Wilson’s departure as chairman was Shares rose Monday following a report disclosed in December at the same time in the Wall Street Journal that Wilson that Potdevin’s appointment as ceo was We are working with the ILO and had retained Goldman Sachs & Co. with announced. Wilson remains a director of an eye to a board shake-up or possible Lululemon and isn’t scheduled to stand sitting down with the World Bank to buyout with private equity partners. for reelection to the board until the com- Goldman and a spokesman for Wilson pany’s 2016 annual meeting. do a scientific calculation on what the [minimum wage] should be…Before, we just pulled the number out of the air. Zadig & Voltaire Links With BPI Last year Bertrand Tupin, chief strate- By AMANDA KAISER — CAMBODIAN COMMERCE MINISTER SUN CHANTHOL gic officer at BPI, told WWD the company was on the hunt for new fragrance licens- TOKYO — French fashion brand Zadig es to complement its portfolio of brands part of TPP,” he said. “So we need to Labor and human rights activists & Voltaire has inked a 15-year fragrance such as Issey Miyake, Narciso Rodriguez get ready — sign the bilateral invest- have argued that the government is in- deal with Shiseido’s Beauté Prestige and Elie Saab. ment treaty with the U.S., that is one timidating workers and unions by bring- International. “The priority is licenses; we know how condition that will lead us to TPP,” ing incitement charges against them “Zadig & Voltaire and BPI have now decid- to handle those. Since the very begin- adding that Cambodia could be ready and has also significantly reduced the ed to bring their talents together to develop ning, we knew how to create brands from to join TPP, if accepted by the TPP space for freedom of association in the the Zadig & Voltaire Perfumes, with a shared scratch and to make them successful in partners, in three years. last year. Chanthol contended that the level of demand and vision,” Shiseido said. the markets. It’s our DNA,” he said. Chanthol sought to reassure for- government upholds the rights of unions eign investors that the government is and said some factories have represen- making reforms on a wide range of is- tatives from several different unions. sues, including corruption, minimum He said the government is in the wage and the freedom of association. process of drafting a’’ union law “not Macy’s Adds Young-Scrivner to Board He said officials are meeting with the to stop them from organizing a union, International Labor Organization and but at least for them to understand our omnichannel brands.” the World Bank to discuss the mini- the role and responsibilities of em- By DAVID MOIN In February, Young-Scrivner, 45, was mum wage issue and labor reforms. ployers, employees and unions.” named president of Teavana, a tea re- MACY’S INC., in an effort to bring greater tailer acquired by Starbucks a year ago. diversity to its board, has added Annie Teavana has more than 350 stores in the Young-Scrivner, executive vice president U.S., Canada, Mexico and the Middle of Starbucks Coffee Co. and president of East. Young-Scrivner has held several its Teavana business, to the roster. top jobs at Starbucks since 2009, in- Autopsy Finds Ott Drowned Young-Scrivner becomes the 11th cluding president of Starbucks Canada, member of the board. Ten of the members president of Tazo Tea and Starbucks’ AN AUTOPSY conducted by the New works at The Dock Group, had said are independent directors and, of those, global chief marketing officer. York City Medical Examiner’s Office there was additional footage that five are women. From 1990 through 2009, she rose up has determined the Brooklyn de- spotted him twice before dawn on “Annie Young-Scrivner is an extraor- the ranks of PepsiCo Inc., starting as a signer Jay Ott’s cause of death was March 23. A video camera filmed dinarily talented executive and busi- sales and marketing intern at Frito-Lay drowning and the manner of death is Ott leaving his building at 4:35 a.m., ness leader with an impressive track and advancing to vice president and undetermined, according to spokes- and another camera outside of a bo- record of success in marketing, brand- general manager of PepsiCo’s Target woman Julie Bolcer. dega about a mile away northwest of building and innovation on a regional, team, chairman and region president for A New York City Police Department McKibbin Lofts filmed Ott walking national and international level. She PepsiCo Foods in Greater China and chief spokesman said Monday that the case by around 4:51 a.m., heading toward will be a significant asset to our com- marketing officer and head of sales for will stay open. Manhattan. pany, given the important role that our the Quaker Foods and Snacks Division. Ott’s body was found May 9 in the For weeks this spring, Ott’s father directors play in guiding the company’s Young-Scrivner’s first job while in col- East River near Pier 4 in Bushwick. Robert lead a civilian search for his strategic direction in satisfying emerg- lege was as a sales associate at the former At the time of his death, the 31-year- son, canvassing neighborhoods in ing consumer demand,” said Terry J. Bon Marché department store in Seattle, old was design director for Crippen Brooklyn and Manhattan and put- Lundgren, Macy’s chairman and chief which was taken over by Macy’s. and Rosetta Getty at The Dock Group. ting up “missing” posters. Ott had not executive officer. “Most striking is In addition to Lundgren and Young- As reported, the NYPD said that been in touch with his friends and Young-Scrivner’s consistent level of Scrivner, the members of Macy’s surveillance footage showed that family since March 22, according to achievement in driving business results board are Stephen Bollenbach, Ott was last spotted at 9:50 p.m. on the NYPD. in every step of her career. At Macy’s, Meyer Feldberg, Joyce Roche, Craig March 22 in his apartment build- Robert Ott could not be reached she will be part of an unusually diverse Weatherup, Deirdre Connelly, Sara ing — The McKibbin Lofts at 248 for comment Monday. board that keenly understands the dy- Levinson, Joseph Neubauer, Paul Varga McKibbin Street. Beatrice Kim, who — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG namic customer marketplace served by and Marna Whittington. 14 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 24, 2014 Julian Schnabel, 1984. Jeannette Montgomery Barron photographs at the Collezione Maramotti.

Scenes From

would ascend, Barron said she The Eighties Jeannette would have bought one of their Montgomery paintings or traded for one. “It Barron would have cost nothing back AS AN INSIDER to New York’s their studios socializing,’’ I was telephone. That prompted Dacci then. Oh well — I wasn’t really art scene in the Eighties, really there to get the picture. to suggest the Scene show, which thinking about that,” Barron Jeannette Montgomery Barron And that’s the way I wanted it,” runs through the end of July. said. “I was thinking about did more than observe — she she said. “I think I could have The magnetic portraiture taking pictures — silly me.” took photographs. been a psychiatrist. People talk that is evident in her work did Barron is still very much Portraits of Robert to me and tell me things that I not happen by chance. “I always anchored in the work, though she Mapplethorpe, Jean-Michel can’t believe they tell me — very liked to photograph the subject has become more prolific in Rome. Basquiat, Keith Haring, Bianca personal. I think that’s just the where they worked or where “I need that remove. I felt a lot of Jagger and other influencers way that people respond to me.” they lived because the minute pressure in New York because from those Reagan-era days are In fact, many literally you walk in, you understand there’s a lot of competition. That now on view at the Collezione responded to her with something about them. If it’s a adrenaline you feel is a positive, Maramotti, in Reggio Emilia, handwritten notes, thank you book on the table, some type of sometimes it takes it out of you. Italy. “What was it like? I was letters and party invitations ceramic they’re collecting or [the There’s no other place like it. in it and I was just trying to get — some of which have been fact] they’re a mess or whatever That’s for sure. This is what we these pictures. It was kind of like incorporated in a diarylike — you get it. Now you can learn loved about New York, all these a game to me. Can I get in that is really scary. I was thinking, crazy creative people who didn’t fit studio? Are they going to let me ‘What’s he going to think? He’s in anywhere came to New York to photograph them or not?” she probably going to think I am a become anonymous and to become said during a recent interview. Something was happening hack.’’ she recalled. “He was something new. A lot of those “Then the next thing I knew, it’s just very sweet and curious people I guess will find a way, but 10 years later and I had gotten and everybody knew it. I can tell you about my work. He just said, it’s becoming harder and harder,” married and had a child. And that ‘Where do you want me?’” she said was in the end of the Eighties.” one thing. It was fun. In the pre-paparazzi-crazy And that is something that Visitors to “Scene: Eighties, Barron would not take concerns her. She continued, Photographs of the 1980s New — JEANNETTE MONTGOMERY BARRON photos at institutions “There’s no room for York Art Scene” will stand like Area, the Mudd Club artists anymore in face-to-face with life-size and Odeon. For the first Manhattan. Maybe I’m images of such iconic artists as catalogue. Along with those about people just by Googling time, young artists were eye romanticizing, but it’s just Mapplethorpe, Andy Warhol, mementos and scads of others them. It’s a very different process. becoming real stars, and all about money now, isn’t Francesco Clemente, Barbara stowed away in boxes, the soft- I used to go to the library to get Barron captured many it? It’s really about who’s Kruger and the Starn Twins, spoken Atlanta native even saved books on artists to try to find out of them before they took got the bigger apartment, among others. “Something was some of the more memorable things about them,” she said. flight. “Everybody was betting and maybe it was always that happening and everybody knew messages left on her answering “Whenever it was a magazine on Basquiat to make it big, way. But it seems really, really it. I can tell you one thing. It machine in the Eighties. “I have assignment, they would send over but he kind of lost favor,” she clear to me now that it’s a town was fun,” said Barron, who now some from Bianca Jagger, my a stack of things to read. But a lot said. “When he died, he was for people who really want to divides her time between Rome mother, Julian Schnabel — to of the times I just walked in and reevaluated, which happens a make a lot of money. And that’s and Connecticut. think people had to catch you at that was that. Yo u just had to go lot,” Barron said. the primary goal. It’s very In the hard-partying Eighties, home at 6 or 7 at night. Yo u didn’t with it and get that picture. Get While Haring was just “a hard to exist there because it’s the East Village and SoHo were have a cell phone.” something out of’’ them.” really nice guy,” Schnabel blaringly obvious every day that havens for artists and still void of Over lunch with Barron and Shooting Mapplethorpe was “larger than life,” and the there’s this other thing going the chain stores that have since her art dealer husband James, turned out to be not that photographer said she “had on. And that’s very distracting. invaded those neighborhoods. Collezione Maramotti’s Marina daunting, she said. “I was really no idea” that Cindy Sherman Minimalls everywhere. It’s lost Days were spent working in Dacci saw Barron’s journals and worried because photographing was going to become such a its character, and now it’s going barren studios — “It was not “phone drawings” — sketches another photographer, big deal. Had she known just to happen to Brooklyn, too.” as though I was hanging out in she enjoys doing while on the especially one that you admired, how high Basquiat and Haring — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG

Francesco FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE Clemente, WWD.com/eye. 1981.

JAMES D. BARRON; BARRON BY C. DARIO LASAGNI; JEANNETTE BARRON MONTGOMERY

Jean-Michel Ross Bleckner, Basquiat, 1985. 1983. BY OTHERS ALL EXHIBIT PHOTO BY WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 24, 2014 15 WWD.COM

SECOND HELPING: McCartney is headed been a very inspiring Tor y Burch will back to London on Tuesday, collaboration for us,” said FASHION SCOOPS open a flagship in and she’s then off to Asia Andreas Löwenstam, head of Milan in December. for work. However, a trip men’s design at H&M. TIES THAT BIND: To coincide with the Located in a two-story, 4,850-square-foot to the Glastonbury music Prices will range from Universal Exposition in Milan next space at 7 Via della Spiga, the unit is festival could also be on the 14.99 euros, or $20.38 at year, Giorgio Armani is planning to open her second in Italy, following a Rome cards. “I’m debating it — I current exchange, for a a museum-archive in May to be called boutique that opened in 2010. love a bit of Glasto,” she said. handkerchief to 49.99 Armani Silos, located in a former Nestlé “Italy is a very important market for — SAMANTHA CONTI euros, or $67.97, for a shirt. industrial area near his theater on us,” said the designer. Liberty print fabrics have Milan’s Via Bergognone. “It will also be The Milan flagship is to carry the full VINCE TO SELL STOCK IN featured in collaborations a cultural center, open to the arts and Tory Burch collection. SECONDARY OFFERING: Vince with brands such as to those who study fashion — sort of my The label is also available at toryburch. Holding Corp. said it is A pocket handkerchief Barbour, Nike, Levi’s, Etam, own Tate Gallery,” the designer said it and carried by 130 stores across the planning a secondary public from the Liberty Vans, Marc by Marc Jacobs after the Emporio Armani show. country. — L.Z. offering of 3.6 million shares collaboration with H&M. and Dockers. He underscored the opportunity the of common stock. — JOELLE DIDERICH Expo offers to Milan, despite the recent GREEN MACHINE: “It’s basically three The shares being offered include corruption scandal that is bringing guys in a Swedish forest,” said Stella those held by affiliates of Sun Capital GUYS AND DOLLS: Catching the attention of several managers and ex-members of McCartney, describing the Partners Inc., which own a those whizzing to fashion shows around parliament under arrest over alleged source of the recyclable tiles FOR MORE majority stake in Vince. In town in Milan, “The Wall of Dolls” was attempts to influence public tenders. she’s just had installed in her SCOOPS, SEE addition, the underwriters set up to highlight and condemn violence “Who wouldn’t be worried about that? newly refurbished Milan store. have a 30-day option to against women. Fifty international But I have faith it will all turn out for the “It’s called Baux [Träullit], WWD.com. purchase up to an additional fashion brands and designers, including, best,” he said. and it’s the first time I’ve 532,555 shares of Vince’s Eva Cavalli, Ermanno Scervino, Missoni, Armani praised the work done so far used it. We put the tiles up the common stock from the Etro and Trussardi, agreed to participate by pro-business Matteo Renzi, Italy’s prime staircase and I wanted to see them for selling stockholders. in the project with human right minister, although the designer chastised myself,” said McCartney, describing the Vince Holding, which completed its association Intervita and other nonprofit his habit of often wearing a white shirt material that’s made partly from the initial public offering in November, organizations, creating dolls to be without a tie. “Barack Obama wears a white pulp of Swedish spruces. will not receive any proceeds from the exposed on a wall of the Cultural Center shirt, too, but always with a tie. More ties McCartney also had Italian greens on secondary offering. — VICKI M. YOUNG on Via de Amicis. The installation is also and less fashion-y looks is my advice to her mind Monday night during a party open to anyone who wants to Renzi. But he is doing an excellent job.” she hosted at the Orto Botanico di Brera, PRINTS CHARMING: H&M is add a doll. Armani also revealed that company an historic garden in the center of town linking with Liberty prints for Italian journalist Jo Squillo, sales are up 6 percent in the first half. that belongs to Milan’s university. In a capsule collection of men’s creator of the event with Prior to the show, Aerosmith front between the medicinal plants, vegetable shirts and accessories in the other Italian celebrities, man Steven Tyler talked about his gig patches and flower beds, McCartney’s British retailer’s trademark journalists and writers, said Wednesday in Milan. “The stage is my team had planted pizza, ice cream, floral prints. The line — the decision to set up the mistress, and after working out for two lemonade and Campari stands and hired consisting of four shirts, three wall during men’s fashion hours on it, I feel I get my 20-year-old a Dixieland band, while models dressed pocket handkerchiefs, a tie week was meant to raise body back,” said Tyler, who was there in McCartney’s resort collection mingled and a bow tie — will launch awareness among men. The with the band’s lead guitarist, Joe Perry. with guests. in 250 stores worldwide and wall is to travel to other As for attending fashion shows, Tyler “It’s the first time we’ve held our online in September. Italian and European cities. LELE SANDRINI confessed: “My middle name should be garden party outside New York and the “Floral prints are The initiative was included front row. I love being in the limelight.” first time we’ve done it in Europe,” said among the most important on the calendar of the Italian

Tyler and Perry are also expected McCartney. “The collection is about this season. Mixing PHOTO BY Chamber of Fashion with to attend the Roberto Cavalli show on having a spring in your step — it’s meant classic Liberty patterns Missoni’s contribution the patronage of the Milan Tuesday. — LUISA ZARGANI to be humorous and fun.” with current trends has to “The Wall of Dolls.” municipality. — ALESSIA BANI

KORS BETS ON MEN’S: Michael Kors REGISTER BY JULY 2 FOR A SPECIAL RATE Holdings Ltd. is getting serious about MEMO PAD its men’s fashion advertisements. The company said that for this coming STRENGTH IN NUMBERS: Salvatore fall, the Michael Kors men’s campaign Ferragamo creative director Massimiliano will increase the number of print Giornetti tapped Mert Alas and Marcus publications where its ads will appear Piggott for the Italian fashion house’s by 89 percent, with a 311 percent fall ad campaign, which marks a increase in total ad pages compared with fall 2013. The new fall ads — shot by Mario Testino, with model Benjamin Eidem fronting the campaign — will be featured in several new publications for their September issues, including Men’s Health’s U.S., U.K. and German versions, Details

PIGGOTT and Esquire. “With the advent of our SoHo store on Broadway MARCUS — the first location to carry

AND the men’s collection — and an increased interest in ALAS An image from all of our men’s categories, Ferragamo’s MERT we’re shooting more men’s fall campaign. BY imagery than ever before,” said Michael Kors. PHOTO Though the stance on departure for the brand: Instead of advertising has changed, the aerial- relying on a single model, the images centric content has not: Fall will feature a coterie of pretty people. include a male and female model with Suvi Koponen, Mariacarla Boscono, Amanda a cameo from an airplane, similar to Murphy, Felix Hermans and Jason Anthony 2013’s campaign, which featured a make up the cast, posing against a helicopter. — DAVID YI surreal, ultrasaturated natural backdrop of bright blue flowers RYAN BONIFACINO DEENA VARSHAVSKAYA ALEX MILLER Benjamin Eidem and violet sky. Ferragamo’s ALEX AND ANI WANELO QVC U.S. for Michael Fiamma handbags make a Kors, shot by cameo, in materials such as Mario Testino. black crocodile and calfskin with gold hardware handles. Hair is by Garren Defazio and WWD.COM/DIGNY makeup by Lucia Pieroni. Attend: [email protected], 212.630.4212 The campaign breaks this Sponsor: [email protected], 212.630.4824 month, with a small selection of images featuring Hermans and Anthony, and the full gamut of SPONSORED BY: men’s and women’s shots will run across international media by early fall. — CYNTHIA MARTENS 16 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 24, 2014 WWD.COM Wanelo Takes Social Shopping In-store {Continued from page one} Urban Outfitters has more followers on shopping and visiting us from mobile Now, the most-saved products among Wanelo than any other social network, phones in such a rapid, crazy rate that Nordstrom followers will populate the with its Facebook following approach- anything that is mobile-centric is pop- retailer’s “What’s Trending on Wanelo” ing two million, Instagram at almost 1.5 ping for us. Instagram is on fire, but The Digitally displays, which are currently rolling out million, Twitter at 875,000 and Pinterest Wanelo is the most mobile-centric social to the chain’s B P, or Brass Plum, juniors’ at 150,000. The retailer has installed a media platform that we have.” department. A TV screen in the depart- Wanelo save button on the product pages Sephora found that 95 percent of Minded Nordstrom ment will scroll through about 100 prod- of its e-commerce site, resulting in a 40 the traffic it gets from Wanelo goes to ucts popular on Wanelo. percent increase in product saves and The Seattle-based department store “The way that we’re creating these a 20 percent spike in Wanelo-generated has been on the digital cutting edge for video experiences is by looking at that sales for the company. years. Here, a look at some of its efforts trending data,” said Bryan Galipeau, Steve Hartman, Urban Outfitters’ man- to marry the online with the off-line. Nordstrom’s social media director. “It’s aging director of direct and marketing, a purely customer-driven strategy. We said Wanelo has a conversion rate at least March 2011: Nordstrom buys flash- take a snapshot of that trending category four times higher than any other social sales site HauteLook. once every week, and we will then match network. It’s also quickly climbed into the that up against our inventory and what’s top 10 sources of traffic for urbanoutfit- December 2011: Sole Society breaks available in those stores so we’re provid- ters.com, along with Google search. away from HauteLook to operate as a ing a good customer experience.” Farfetch digital marketing manager freestanding business. Galipeau said that the store started Rachel Waller said Wanelo users are seeing heavy traffic coming to its site converting at a rate five times that of April 2012: Nordstrom invests $16.4 from Wanelo in the middle of last year — Pinterest. (The online marketplace has million in Bonobos and begins to carry but that much of the insight for the proj- 195,000 followers and 182,000 products the brand in its stores and online. ect came from a group of 3,000 teens who posted to its Wanelo page.) make up the retailer’s BP Fashion Board Varshavskaya, who founded Wanelo May 2012: Nordstrom partners with GQ and are avid Wanelo users. when she was 31, credits the app’s rapid on a cross-channel program that brings “If you look at that — the merchandise consumer adoption to its singular focus GQ editorial content to nordstrom.com and products that customers are saving on shopping. and Nordstrom product to GQ. really align well with that BP depart- For her, the reason Twitter and ment,” Galipeau said. “We aren’t forc- Facebook haven’t seen success with March 2013: Nordstrom showcases part ing that. That’s a great connection for us commerce is that they weren’t designed of Etsy Wholesale in its home department between the BP Fashion Board and the to be shopping platforms. When users with “Etsy & Nordstrom Present.” traffic that we’re seeing [from Wanelo].” go to Wanelo, they expect only to see Brands such as Urban Outfitters, accurate information on product avail- December 2013: Nordstrom Sephora and Lululemon are quickly de- ability and pricing. invests in Shoefitr, which uses 3-D veloping followings on the product-cen- “Imagine going to Amazon or Urban imaging software to give size and fit tric Wanelo. The majority of content is Outfitters’ [Web site] and starting to see RIO DEL MARIA Deena recommendations. The technology is user-generated — although it’s up to the photos of recipes and landscapes side by Varshavskaya used on nordstrom.com.

brands to determine if and how involved side with products,” Varshavskaya said. BY PHOTO December 2013: Nordstrom’s downtown its mobile site. Dolan called the chan- Seattle location starts to carry jewelry nel a traffic generator for mobile that cases with engagement rings and wedding not only speaks to a consumer shop- bands from online-based brand Blue Nile. ping on her phone, but one who is “pre- shopping” and creating lists of what she March 2014: BaubleBar opens wants to buy. Nordstrom Loves BaubleBar pop-up She said Sephora became active on shops in 35 doors and adds a presence the platform when it hit a critical mass, on nordstrom.com. with about 400,000 followers. Now, the brand, with 582,000 fans and 23,000 prod- May 2014: Nordstrom Rack launches a ucts saved to its page, is spending more fresh e-commerce and mobile experience, time creating collections on Wanelo and sharing a back end with HauteLook. views the platform as an up-and-coming tool in terms of traffic and sales. June 2014: Nordstrom brings the “It’s 100 percent just about product Wanelo digital experience to 107 of its from your site,” Dolan said. “There’s no stores through a wall of product and tips and no looks. That is how Wanelo interactive screens. works. That is the differentiator from other social media.” The “What’s Trending on Wanelo” Lululemon, which has 673,000 follow- display from the Nordstrom in ers, sees an average of 770 product saves Bellevue, Wash. per item. According to Carolyn Coles, the brand’s director of digital channels, More than 11 million users and 300,000 stores have uploaded 12 million products to Wanelo. Wanelo is the third-largest social channel for Lululemon, driving about 6 percent they want to get in terms of interacting “That would create a really confusing of social referrals to lululemon.com. The with the Wanelo community. shopping experience.” brand has already integrated a social For instance, Urban Outfitters has The app is also part of the grow- button onto its Web site. 2.7 million followers — the most on the ing Webrooming trend — where people “We are paying close attention to the platform — with 80,000 products that browse and preview online before com- trending page on our Wanelo channel in have been posted and saved more than ing into a store. order to identify sales trends,” Coles said. 43 million times. (Saving on Wanelo is Bridget Dolan, Sephora’s vice presi- That type of attention could lead to analogous to “pinning” on Pinterest.) dent of digital, said: “Our clients are more fertile crowd-based merchandising.

$425 million in a “downside” J.C. Penney Closes $2.35 Billion Credit Facility scenario and falling to breakev- en under an “optimistic” model. of credit will be available for of plans for the new financing, credit risk. Moody’s expects She said that cash and cash By ARNOLD J. KARR working capital and general cor- sent shares of Penney’s down low- to midsingle-digit sales equivalents of $1.17 billion at porate purposes, Penney’s said. 3.4 percent to $8.69 in New growth for Penney’s this year the end of the first quarter and J.C. PENNEY CO. INC. has “We proactively pursued this York Stock Exchange trading and a continuation of operat- the new facilities “provide it closed on a five-year $2.35 billion new facility to extend the matu- Monday. The S&P 500 Retailing ing losses for the next year to with adequate liquidity that can credit facility that it said provides rity several years and further en- Industry Group was up 0.3 per- 18 months, but at “significant- support the potential range of better pricing terms and later ma- hance our liquidity position, par- cent to 890.72. ly” lower levels than in the re- free cash flow burn.” turities than its predecessor. ticularly during periods of peak The arrangement of the cent past. In the first quarter, However, “a very meaningful The new facility consists of working capacity needs,” said Ed facility was co-led by Wells Penney’s trimmed its operating improvement” in gross margin a $1.85 billion revolving line of Record, who was appointed ex- Fargo, Bank of America Merrill loss to $247 million from $486 will be necessary for Penney to credit and a $500 million term ecutive vice president and chief Lynch, J.P. Morgan, Barclays and in the prior-year quarter. achieve operating profit. In the loan. It replaces a $1.85 billion financial officer of Plano, Tex.- Goldman Sachs. Margaret Taylor, vice presi- first quarter, gross margin rose credit facility scheduled to ma- based Penney’s in February. He Earlier this month, Moody’s dent and senior credit officer to 33.1 percent of sales from 30.8 ture in April 2016. noted “the improved price terms Investors Service rated the for Moody’s corporate finance percent in the 2013 period. Funds from the term loan of this facility as well as the sup- revolver at “B1” and the term group, estimated that Penney’s Penney’s nearest debt matu- will be used to pay down the port and confidence from our loan at “B2,” indicating the would burn about $250 million rity comes next year when $200 cash borrowings of the previous banking partners.” instruments were speculative of free cash flow this year, with million in 6.875 percent notes facility, and the revolving line Investors, already well aware in nature and subject to high that number rising to more than come due. Tim Labenda’s net top over DSTM bra, cotton culottes and Reality Studio WWDBERLIN leather and rope sandals. SECTION II

A New Urban Vista A changing landscape is shuffling the fashion week scene in the German capital as designers and brands prepare to show off for spring. JOCHIMS/BLOSSOM MANAGEMENT; STYLED BY PHUONG LAM STYLED BY MANAGEMENT; JOCHIMS/BLOSSOM INSIDE Ones to Watch Bikini Berlin: The Newest Niche Business Outlook PHOTO BY MATTI HILLIG ON THE TERRACE OF BIKINI BERLIN. MODELS: BELLA@ICONIC MANAGEMENT; HAIR AND MAKEUP BY MIRIAM HAIR AND MAKEUP BY MODELS: BELLA@ICONIC MANAGEMENT; 2 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 24, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWDBERLIN FOR MORE SCENES TOURIST TRAPPINGS 18 to 45 euros ($24 to 61), and AND IMAGES, SEE Berlin’s heady summers and found at MDC Cosmetics and nonconformist style can’t re- Gestalten Bikini Berlin. — S.S. WWD.com/eye. ally be bottled, but still, there are some liquid treats to bring Frau Tonis home for a bit of the city’s 13 Zimmerstrasse, 10969 Scene spirit — inside and out. (Mitte) Keeping busy in the Absolut Vodka has chosen Tel.: +49-30-337-777 off-hours around Berlin. Berlin for its first German Hours: Monday to Saturday, city edition. Multimedia 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. artist Zhivago Duncan Web: frau-tonis-parfum.com BOWIE’S BERLIN gave the familiar bottle “Bowie without Berlin a street art spin, with a MDC Cosmetic is unimaginable.” graphic of Berlin’s famous 26 Knaackstrasse, 10405 That’s how Martin Alexanderplatz TV tower (Prenzlauer Berg) Roth, director of London’s tagged with graffiti reading Tel: +49-30-4005-6339 Victoria and Albert “Es ist nicht einfach immer Hours: Monday to Wednesday, Museum, summed up the re- ein Rebell zu sein” (“It’s not 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.; Thursday to lationship between the iconic easy to always be a rebel”) Saturday, 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. musician and Germany’s capi- paired with drippy pastel paint Web: mdc-cosmetic.com tal. The newly opened “David stripes. The limited-edition 0.7- Bowie” exhibition at Martin- Kansai Yamamoto’s striped bodysuit liter Absolut Berlin is priced BACK TO BASICS Gropius-Bau features most for David Bowie’s 1973 Aladdin Sane around 20 euros ($27) and can While the rain of Michelin of the V&A’s wildly popular tour, in the “David Bowie” exhibition. be found in liquor shops and stars on Berlin this year illus- “David Bowie Is” show from grocery stores. Visitors take trates how far the local high- Tin Tan last year, along with a special AN IMMODEST PROPOSAL note: it’s not available at duty- end gastronomy scene has section focusing on the singer’s Martina Rink believes Germany’s free shops or travel retail. come, there’s also an alterna- stint in the German capital. contributions to the fashion in- For a waft of the past, try tive culinary development in Tin Tan: Other than Tex-Mex, From 1976 to 1978, Bowie dustry are too often overlooked. Frau Tonis. The local vintage- the city to be noted. Casual authentic Mexican food is lived in Berlin, and the “The Germans are way too influenced perfumery Frau eateries are clearly on the hard to find in Berlin. Barbara city’s inspiration led to modest about what they do has a triptych of scents rise. Charting the change: Craffonara and Mauricio three albums now known as and there are loads of them that evoke the Roaring Mitte’s more sophisticated Acosta have set out to change the Berlin Trilogy: “Low,” out there playing in the top Twenties in Berlin. There’s Vietnamese restaurant that with Papalótl, a popular “Heroes” and “Lodger.” leagues of international fash- Linde Berlin 10 reveres the Chi Sing switched gears to restaurant among Mexican Sixty items have been added ion,” according to Rink, the Linden, or Lime Trees turn into the street food expatriates. Her newest love to the exhibition for a dash of power behind the new coffee- That Perfume the City’s District Mot featur- child is Tin Tan, a rustic tin- local color. Highlights include table book “Fashion Germany.” Boulevards; Violets ing easy market stall box-style self-service Mexican photos of Bowie exiting the The 208-page tome, pub- 37, the fragrance worn decor and plastic fur- street food restaurant. Not Orient Express in Berlin’s Zoo lished by Prestel in German and by Twenties film leg- niture, and Michelin- the tacky-taco kind, but fresh, train station, a worn pale blue English editions, was born of a end Marlene Dietrich, chef Tim Raue opened soft ones that come with tra- velvet bench from Seventies hot desire to show the world “what and Bogota Berlin 18, the communal kitch- ditional Campestre chicken spot Dschungel (“Jungle”) night- we have to be proud of. We are which is inspired by en-inspired Soupe and milk-boiled Suadero beef club, and never-before-exhibit- associated with quality and accu- the quirky and recently Populaire with his in metal pans, served with ed correspondence between racy, and that shows in all areas.” closed Hotel Bogata, takes on down-home coriander and lime just like Bowie and Marlene Dietrich. Rink rounded up an im- which played host and Berlin specialties. in Mexico. In the summer, They appeared together in the pressive list of more than 90 muse to artists from More rustic food mar- the backyard terrace offers a 1978 film “Just a Gigolo” but, people from the business — Benny Goodman to ket concepts and stalls break from bustling Mitte. having filmed in separate cities, including designers Dorothee Helmut Newton to at Maybachufer and never met on set. Schumacher, Bernhard Mario Testino. The Prinzessinnengärten Tin Tan Also newly on display are Willhelm and Markus Lupfer, boxed set of three 15-ml. Absolut Berlin have become increas- 124 Chausseestrasse, 10115 Bowie sketches, drawings model Johannes Huebl and perfumes is priced at 69 limited-edition ingly popular among (Mitte) and paintings, many strong- stylist Julia von Boehm — and euros, or $94. bottle. the city’s growing legion Tel.: +49-30-28-096-223 ly influenced by German invited them to provide contri- Like many great of younger gourmands. Web: facebook.com/tintan. Expressionists, like a paint- butions reflecting what they do. Berliners, Frank Leder hails Here are three eateries to berlin.taqueria ing and woodcut by artist from somewhere else. The check out. — QUYNH TRAN Hours: Monday to Saturday, Erich Heckel from the Brücke Nuremberg-born fashion de- 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Museum. Bowie and Iggy Pop signer has made Berlin his Ban Ban Kitchen: It’s nothing were frequent visitors there, and home for the past decade, after more than an improvised con- Van Anh: Inspired by her grand- Heckel’s works clearly inspired studying at London’s Central tainer off the main road in mother’s kitchen from the cover poses for the 1977 albums Saint Martins. Leder’s artistic the very south of Neukölln. Hanoi of the Sixties, Van Anh “Heroes” and “The Idiot.” focus is “German-ness” and the But the food stands out. The opened a cozy space with clas- Additionally, there are country’s rites and rituals, but Korean-Vietnamese team of sic Vietnamese comfort kitch- pictures of Bowie’s apart- his cult-status designs are loved Ban Ban Kitchen fuses distant en fare like Bun Cha, grilled ment on Hauptstrasse in the in Japan, and mostly sold there. fast foods: Turkish, Korean pork and vermicelli, and Dau Schöneberg neighborhood, as Luckily for locals, Leder and American. There are just Chuoi, tofu and plantains in well as his house keys. has branched into making ar- three flavors (Ninja Chicken, curcuma sauce, served in “When [visitors] step out of tisanal grooming products. Soy Superstar and Bulgogi heavy pottery. A special is the museum, they should be His Tradition line comes in Beef) with a vegan alternative the drinks menu with fresh able to look for certain things apothecary bottles finished for each. Dishes like Bulgogi Mang Cau shake and tradi- they have seen in the show with Bakelite caps, linen Beef Burgers, Kimchi Fries tional Hanoian egg coffee, a — I mean, the Hansa studios string, and paper tags. The and Nori Tacos promise un- Zabaglione-like egg cream are just 500 meters away,” ex- Martina Rink’s book, Deutsche Eiche (German Oak) usual senses of taste — which with Vietnamese espresso. plained Christine Heidemann, “Fashion Germany.” Bath Oil has a leaf and acorns is quite a challenge in multi- curator of the Berlin section. preserved inside, while the cultural Berlin these days. Van Anh To that end, curious sorts can “It’s a mix,” Rink offered, layered potion inside the 7 Oderberger Strasse (corner take walking tours that highlight “of writing, poems, beautiful Ober Tertia Regenerating Ban Ban Kitchen of Kastanienallee), 10435 the ch-ch-ch-changes in Bowie’s images and handwritten Peter Bath evokes school chemistry 205 Herrmannstrasse, 12049 (Prenzlauer Berg) Berlin, or visit historic Hansa Lindbergh interviews.” experiments. The contents (Neukölln) Tel.: +49-30-41-717-294 Tonstudio, where “Heroes” was Rink followed a similar for- are produced in Austria by Web: facebook.com/banbankitchen Web: facebook.com/vananh.berlin produced. The studios have also mat in her first book, “Isabella the makers of the Susanne Hours: Thursday to Tuesday, Hours: Monday to Sunday, played host to Depeche Mode, Blow,” which was dedicated to Kaufmann line, priced from 5 to 11 p.m. noon to midnight

Nick Cave, Brian Eno and U2. her former boss and mentor. BOWIE ARCHIVE DAVID © SUKITA/THE SUKITA MASAYOSHI HILLIG; BOWIE BY MATTI PHOTOS BY RESTAURANT The new Berlin section is “I love getting people togeth- exclusive to the city, and will er to do these books, whether Ban Ban Kitchen not travel on with the exhibi- the focus is a person, subject, tion when it departs in August. company or brand,” she said. — SUSAN STONE “Fashion Germany” will launch July 9 during Berlin Martin-Gropius-Bau Berlin Fashion Week at designer-stud- 7 Niederkirchnerstrasse, ded specialty store The Corner. at the corner of 110 It will also be “dressed” for the Stresemannstrasse, 10963 occasion in an exclusive MCM Tel.: +49-30-254-86-0 book cover in the brand’s clas- Hours: 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily sic cognac logo print, accentu- Entry: 14 euros, or $19 ated by a sketch of Irma, Jasmin Hansa Tonstudio and Bowie Khezri’s illustrative character. tours via musictours-berlin.de — JESSICA SALTZ Van Anh Special sets the standard.

Introducing the new S-Class Coupé. Mercedes-Benz – official partner to the top global fashion weeks. www.mercedes-benz.com/fashion A Daimler Brand

Fuel consumption combined: 11.9–9.4 l/100 km; combined CO₂ emissions: 279–219 g/km. 4 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 24, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWDBERLIN Tim Labenda and a look for spring, below. Ones to Watch Four emerging houses hitting fashion week.

TIM LABENDA: fairly transparent and open-work SWITCHING GEARS textiles, as well as working some Würzburg isn’t exactly the city you’d heavier, even felted fabrics. Inspired expect an aspiring young designer to by swimming pools, impressions of settle in. Even a local taxi driver was watery reflections appear in a chiffon skeptical as he turned into a narrow print, net structures and metallic residential lane on the outskirts of effects. The collection combines this hamlet, studded with cathedrals, fluid and soft silhouettes with more castles, fortresses and vineyard- structured pieces subtly revealing studded. But it’s precisely the setting’s his men’s wear roots. For instance, a quietness, and his atelier in what was cropped navy cotton jacket resembles meant to be the swimming pool house a cut-off tailcoat, the lapels tiny and

of this Seventies-era architect’s home, shoulders pert, worn over a semisheer that made Tim Labenda fall in love white cotton shirt with narrow placket with this “hick town,” as he put it. and collar, and slouchy navy and white “I have so much peace and quiet stripe pants, cut and pleated so the The line of men’s and women’s said. “The theme of that I can really concentrate on my stripes fall in a chevron pattern. wear marries contemporary sustainability was work, without distractions,” he said, His own line as well as the one for design with a dedication to ethical growing in Germany,

sitting under the shade of the weeping Zalando are made in Germany about production. All the materials she so I decided to start willow in the studio’s adjoining garden. 35 miles from his studio, and retail for uses, from naturally washed wools to my own business with “And being in the middle of Germany, between 199 and 989 euros, or about cottons, are sustainably produced in these values.” I can get everywhere I need to quickly, $270 and $1,345 at current exchange. Germany or her native Poland. Her own label also be it Paris, Berlin, Munich…” — MELISSA DRIER “Even the leather is dyed naturally meant a return to her Labenda trained as a men’s tailor at in a vegetable tank and comes from preferred androgynous Hugo Boss, then ·· went to fashion school ALEKS KURKOWSKI: organic cows,” she noted. style. Kurkowski chose in Pforzheim, during which time he SUSTAINABLE STYLE After finishing her degree in fashion to study fashion over held a men’s internship at Kenneth “When I started, there were brands design in Hannover, Kurkowski worked her initial love of Cole and spent a guest semester in using quality sustainable fabrics, for “very commercial German brands” architecture, but the Halifax studying textile design. A stint but no one was using them to create for a few years, before rejecting very structured cuts and with men’s wear designer Ute Ploier avant-garde design,” recalled Aleks their motivation to keep prices, and clean lines of her pieces in Vienna followed. When the 28-year- Kurkowski. “I asked myself ‘why not’?” consequently quality, low. show that she old founded his own label here last and in 2012, her namesake clothing “I began to hate this hasn’t left her summer, however, he switched gears to label was born. aspect of the job,” she first passion far focus on women’s wear. While he’d like behind. to do both men’s and women’s at some “From the Aleks Kurkowski in beginning of her studio and a men’s my studies, wear-inspired look. I always preferred doing For the beginning, experimental, avant-garde styles because of the architectural aspect. I also it’s important to really admired designers like Rick Owens, Yohji Yamamoto do one thing right. and Maison Martin Margiela. “I get really inspired by — TIM LABENDA cities and traveling around looking at the buildings,” she added. point, “for the beginning, it’s important Recent collections have to do one thing right,” he said. featured a women’s jacket It’s been an eventful first year. called Gdansk and tapered Vogue Germany editor in chief Prague pants, while the Christiane Arp — who spotted men’s looks can credit U.K. Labenda’s first stab at women’s cities including Glasgow and Bristol fashion while guest-mentoring on the for inspiration. The palette is also local version of TV reality modeling typical of avant-garde design in that competition “The Fashion·· Hero” — it is limited to “black and gray. I invited him to participate in Vogue personally prefer to keep the colors Salon during fashion week in Berlin simple because I like to experiment in July. His second Vogue Salon season with different cuts and I don’t think in January attracted the attention of you can experiment with both at the German e-commerce giant Zalando, same time.” which signed him to design a 10-piece Her spring collection will feature “Tim Labenda for Zalando” fall 2014 white “for the first time” in the form of capsule collection. It hits the site’s a men’s shirt. Premium section Sept. 1. Prices in her online shop start Labenda won the German Apparel at 199 euros, or $270, for an organic Industry’s 2013 European Fashion cotton Bilbao blouson women’s shirt, Award, and in April, captured the 375 euros, or $510, for an oversize Riga Steffl Best Newcomer Award, which linen sweater and 699 euros, or $950, for provides him with sales space in Steffl, a black organic Milano leather jacket Vienna’s oldest department store. He’s with an asymmetric front. The Lyon also one of four finalists for the Berlin men’s blouson jacket costs 379 euros, Senate’s next “Start Your Fashion or $515, and the Moscow shorts are 299 Business” award, which will put some euros, or $406 at current exchange. of his latest looks on the MBFWB July Kurkowski has taken part in the runway, and, if won, could net him Green Showroom during Berlin Fashion between 10,000 and 25,000 euros, or Week in the past, but this season will $13,500 and $34,000, in prize money, mark her Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week plus a mentoring package. Berlin debut in the presentation space The search for a sales agent is on July 9. It is an important transition for on, and in the meantime, Labenda the designer, who wants “to be recognized caters to private customers as well as for my design as much as my ambition to offering a limited selection online. be sustainable.” — JESSICA SALTZ Spring 2015 finds Labenda using {Continued on page 6} PHOTO BY MATTI HILLIG MATTI PHOTO BY

6 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 24, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWDBERLIN TATA CHRISTIANE: every season from open-source THE SOUND OF FASHION photography found on the Internet as Julie Bourgeois and Hanri Gabriel have well as private photo archives, while been doing things together since they Bourgeois experiments with shapes met in high school — like going to flea and materials, trying to move in a markets in their home town of Marseille, direction they’ve not yet been before. where Bourgeois would pick up the most “It’s a learning process for us. colorful clothes that, in turn, would also There is no single rule,” Gabriel said. have suited “Tata Christiane.” This was The interdisciplinary duo is also Gabriel’s flamboyant great aunt who involved in art projects like the photo “looked absolutely fabulous with a lot installation “22+1” with Viviana Druga of polyester and colors and prints and and costumes for film productions. makeup and nail polish” and is their “With clothes, you can create a label’s namesake. fiction of who you want to be and how Moving to Paris, where Gabriel you want to live,” observed Bourgeois. studied interior design at the École “Fashion is fiction, it’s not really des Arts Décoratifs and Bourgeois true, it’s just a moment, a fantasy, just studied literature and philosophy at poetry — playful aspects necessary in the Sorbonne, they founded the band our lives.” “Autist.” Their otherworldly music, For summer 2015, “my story starts a mix of electro and rock with heavy with an imagery trip to Hawaii,” she Marina Hoermanseder and guitar and obscure vocals, also reflects added. The colors are brighter, with belts from her expanded Tata Christiane’s eclectic spirit. more contrasts, more extremes and accessories line, below. The label was hatched in Berlin in more structured shapes built in, yet 2007. Designer Bourgeois and graphic the feeling remains dreamy. designer Gabriel produce a unisex Wanting to maintain a close retail collection and a selection of relationship within their business, all one-of-a-kind pieces that refer to garments are produced in Berlin by each other in color and material each freelancers who work in the studio, season. With Gabriel’s background which is supervised by Bourgeois. in interior design and Bourgeois’ Prices start at 130 euros, or $180, for training in various theatrical costume accessories, 190 euros, or $250, for departments in Paris, Tata Christiane’s T-shirts and 220 euros, or $300, for DNA is a blend of styles and materials pants, and go up to 550 euros, or $750, ranging from polyester to luxurious for a jacket in the retail collection.

silk in unique graphic prints. Prices for one-a-kind garments can go Ones to While the collection aimed at up to 1,200 euros, or $1,625. retailers relies on casual oversize Mostly sold in Japan, Hong Kong, streetwear shapes, one-of-a-kind Singapore and China, the label also has Watch styles look more dramatic, featuring a presence at Galeries Lafayette Beijing. hand-knitted details and rich Last season has seen interest from

draping effects. London and Los Angeles, and Bourgeois {Continued from page 4} markings will “It’s kind of baroque,” Gabriel and Gabriel are now eyeing France. The be formed into said, “always with a little story one-of-a-kind pieces are sold twice a year MARINA HOERMANSEDER: flounces, while a sporty Neoprene inside” as in the current Rock ’n’ Roll at the Wut Berlin Showroom in Tokyo. BOUND AND DETERMINED jacket in opalescent white has rigid Petit Lapin collection that channels Tata Christiane will participate A dark horse with a light bondage lapels cut from an unusual fabric French poet Raymond Roussel’s playful in Collect Showroom at Premium in touch, 27-year-old·· designer Marina made by attaching thin layers of stone and Surrealist process of writing. Berlin and the Berlin Showroom in Hoermanseder jolted a sleepy crowd to to microfiber. Gabriel creates new print patterns Paris later this year. — QUYNH TRANS attention in January with her debut at Calling herself a “materials Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin. fetishist,” Hoermanseder, who grew The French-Austrian Esmod Berlin up roaming the woods outside Vienna graduate showed a deft hand at leather, with her family, loves all that is working with molded bodices, strappy animal, vegetable and mineral. buckled skirts, capes and corsets, while Other looks are men’s wear- the elegance of her softly formed wool inspired, like a shirt placket with a and cashmere shapes belied their thin leather strip that functions as a creepy inspirations — hairless cats and trompe l’oeil tie. folded brains. That and other leather-trimmed pieces show Hoermanseder’s decision to add more commercial, affordable and wearable items to her line, as well It’s a very good as expand accessories. She’ll be at the Collect showroom at Premium, her thing if I do first trade show. It’s part of her business model, formed collaborations.... by an education that included a stint at the London School of Economics. I think it gives me Fashion was always a passion of Hoermanseder’s, but her parents were wary. They promised to invest a level of expertise in and support her design ventures if she first got a grounding in business. and legitimacy. So, she did, then went on to Esmod, graduating in May 2013, and interned — MARINA HOERMANSEDER at Alexander McQueen. “Now I see there’s more to it than just designing,” she said. “It’s a very For spring, Hoermanseder is good thing if I do collaborations, and diving deeper, pulling inspiration also with suppliers. I think it gives me from crenulated sea forms, the rough a level of expertise and legitimacy.” shells of mussels and oysters, and their Hoermanseder decided to go private- pearly interiors. She’s also veering order-only for fall 2014, using the extra feminine in a friendly Fifties way time to secure supplies and set up — as in the structured shapes of the procedures that would guard against her period’s underwear and swimsuits, not being able to fulfill orders. Prices while pale petticoat tones·· offered for the season start at 139 euros, or $190, contrast to taut formed leather. for a textured leather visor; cashmere “I always have this tightrope to walk trousers sell for 290 euros, or $392, and between the fetish and the avant-garde, a structured top with leather buckled and also fashion,” she explained. “So sleeves is 459 euros, or $620. this is why I didn’t think of it as ‘is it After July’s MBFWB show, cheesy that now I’m using pastel?’ I Hoermanseder has been invited to show thought, ‘I’m going completely away at the German Embassy in Delhi for from the sexual and the fetish by India’s Reunification Day celebration in making the straps in light yellow.” October, representing Berlin fashion. Julie Bourgeois Organza printed with granite — SUSAN STONE and Hanri Gabriel of Tata Christiane. PHOTOS BY MATTI HILLIG MATTI PHOTOS BY

8 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 24, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWDBERLIN

Lots of changes are shaking up the status quo during fashion week. A New Landscape By Melissa Drier IF ONE THING can be said with any certainty about the upcoming spring Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin relocated its 2015 round of trade fairs and runway main runways to the Erika-Hess Ice Stadium. shows in Berlin, it’s that things won’t be the same. Ongoing structural and strategic shifts on the retail and industrial lev- els — whether it’s the rise of brands’ directly operated stores, a reorien- tation of distribution and/or export goals, the ever-growing share of online sales, declining consumer traffic, mul- tibrand store closures or the buildup of trade shows — have put all play- ers under pressure, seriously rattling nerves in a German market particu- larly fond of order and consistency. While many of Germany’s apparel retailers had anticipated a slight plus for the first six months of 2014, May was somewhat disappointing. Retailers saw a slight decline for the month, accord- ing to Siegfried Jacobs, associate direc- tor of the German Apparel Retailers Association. “Business could have been better,” he said, but noted inventories are not out of control. Red sales and discount signs may have gone up early in many shop win- dows, but Jacobs added markdown ac- tivity is less intense than it might look. “When you go into the stores, it’s evi- dent that retailers are holding back,” he commented. Jacobs expects a positive mood among German buyers visiting Berlin in July. “There’s been no slump, and some of the big system suppliers, like Street One and Esprit, have begun to recover. Plus when it comes to the en- tire individualistic sector, with labels The Brandenburg Gate’s blockade for the World you can’t find in every store, they’re Cup fan mile forced MBFWB to switch venues. Hotel Adlon hosts Greenshowroom Berlin. all there, in Berlin.” As for Berlin’s fashion industry, once a central force but significantly movement, there’s an antimovement. And moving to the Messe Berlin fairgrounds, She noted international journal- shrunken in the city’s postwar and when something goes wrong, new oppor- and thus much closer to the rest of the ists and clients do attend her show in divided Berlin Wall years, the Berlin tunities arise. I like it,” she said. Berlin action. The up-market Green Berlin. However, she is opting for an Senate claims the German capital “now Premium is unfolding at Station- Salon is moving back to the prestigious off-site venue for the first time this sea- has the highest density of fashion com- Berlin. Hotel Adlon off Brandenburg Gate, son, forgoing the stadium for the loftier panies in Germany.” A Senate report Never satisfied as a rule, Tillmann while the plus-size fair Curvy Is Sexy premises of the St. Elisabeth church. released this month stated that more noted she’s “proud” of Premium’s is moving to larger premises at Palazzo On the young designer level, fluc- than 3,500 fashion-related firms are upcoming portfolio, but that hasn’t Italia on Unter den Linden. tuation is high. For the most part op- currently active in Berlin, with sales stopped her from preparing another The biggest relocation, however, is erating on notoriously low budgets, growing 62 percent from 2009 to 2012 to iron to throw into the fire. that of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week with little domestic retail support and reach about 3 billion euros. The fash- In July, visitors will find new cater- Berlin from the Brandenburg Gate to few agents interested in their fashion ion-related workforce, including those ing facilities and a symposium about the Erika-Hess Ice Stadium in Wedding. sector, every season raises existential working in retail, p.r., distribution, pro- fashion-relevant Internet activities in a “Sometimes, things like soccer questions: how to show, where to show, duction service providers, e-commerce half-finished new hall, but the real plan force one to move,” quipped Jarrad should they skip a Berlin runway sea- and design, grew 23 percent in that for this Hall 8 is to create space to pres- Clark, vice president and global cre- son, go elsewhere, or do something time period to reach 19,200. ent pre-collections from international ative director of IMG Fashion Events completely different? The denim and streetwear scene labels and high-end German designers. & Properties. Because of the fan mile There are a large number of brands was the first to feel the impact; Bread “Pre-collections could be very impor- for soccer’s FIFA World Cup erected missing from Berlin’s runways and & Butter was hit by a tide of big name tant for Berlin,” she suggested, making on the opposite stretch behind the stages this season, but that doesn’t faze defections over the last few years as the city the go-to destination in Europe Brandenburg Gate, Germany’s main IMG’s Clark. brands shifted priorities. for this rapidly building business. fashion event got pushed off field. Still, “It doesn’t suit everyone to show “There’s been a dramatic change Addressing brands’ aspirations to Clark thinks the change brings new op- every season. We play just one role in in our world,” said B&B founder and open new markets, Panorama already portunities. their multiple marketing possibilities,” chief executive officer Karl-Heinz successfully launched The Mall last “It’s a pretty exciting location, and he said. The calendar features the Müller, who noted the days of a Denim season, in which large-volume brands designers will have a chance to think same number of shows — about 50 — as Base populated with megastands by all could display their franchise and in- differently about how to present their last season, and having more is not the the key jeans labels are over. store-shop retail concepts. Now the fair brand. They can be creative and go goal, he said. “We want the quality of “Brands that were so important are intends to embrace flash orders — with wild without having to spend a for- product shown to increase.” not important anymore and others no a new section titled Now. tune,” he said. Nonetheless, Clark would “love to one knew now are relevant and on top,” Similarly, but for their more niche- Like the trade shows, Berlin’s run- see more retailers here to support the he remarked. “And we have them.” oriented clientele, Show & Order is way roster has also experienced big- designers. Emerging German talent Indeed, Bread & Butter has enlisted installing Show & Buy — an area, the name defections, from Hugo Boss to has received an incredible amount of more than 150 new labels from around organizers said, “for quick turnover.” Escada and Rena Lange. Now, more editorial support and consumers know the world this season in its Urban Intended to supplement the classic commercial brands like Laurèl and about them. It’s the perfect time for re- Fashion, Urban Base, Urban Superior, pre-order portfolio with fast fashion- Marc Cain are populating the runways. tailers to take a risk with some talent Lock and Fire Department sections. savvy labels, Show & Buy will also Schumacher continues to fill in Germany.” To that end, IMG intends “There’s a lot of movement [in the feature a pop-up store to demonstrate Germany’s “aspirational luxury to bring some specific buyers into town market],” Müller continued, “which is how fast fashion can be integrated into fashion slot,” said owner Dorothee to introduce them to the market. This positive. Everyone is on the go, look- regular retail formats. Schumacher, contending “Berlin has season, a team from Moda Operandi ing for new opportunities, and that There are also some major venue been great for our business. We’re a will be in the German capital scout- makes it interesting.” shifts on hand this season. After being German brand, we show in Germany ing for new talent to feature in a trunk Premium’s founder and director, Anita marooned in Berlin’s still-unfinished and so it’s natural. And we certainly show on the Web site in August. Tillmann, concurred. “Where there’s airport in Schönefeld, Panorama is don’t feel we lack attention here.” {Continued on page 10}

10 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 24, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWDBERLIN The Berlin runway lineup might Panorama Berlin shows at Berlin ExpoCenter City. have consistency issues, he said, “but Berlin is always open for peo- Blues ple to get started again. There’s a core group doing a great job, and we certainly can’t say there’s no consumer interest. Some 38,000 Progression people live-streamed our last Stylenite show, so obviously people WHILE THE INTERNATIONAL jeans want to know about fashion and market may have registered assorted how it’s progressing in Berlin.” up and downs these past few years, a Pop-up shops are another fa- recent study of the denim business in the vored tactical alternative to the European Union shows a healthy recovery catwalk or trade-show stand, and for European imports in 2013. designer stores in general, both According to a study released by Messe online or brick and mortar, are Frankfurt-Texworld, jeans sales in the 27 EU some local designers’ only pres- countries rose 4.4 percent to reach a record {Continued from page 8} ative crisis management,” Berlin ence in the capital during fashion worth of 3.69 billion euros, or $4.9 billion at The Berlin Senate also plans to designer Esther Perbandt has week. One interesting new hybrid average exchange, for 2013. Between 2007 invite more international buyers to availed herself of multiple spon- is the contemporary flagship from and 2013, jeans imports in the EU rose 5.3 fashion week here, albeit starting sorships and arrangements to stay Berlin’s Prag-Agency, the first percent annually, compared with 2.2 percent for the next fall season, as well as afloat, from partly crowdfunding German p.r. agency to spin off growth in overall apparel imports. convincing missing German brands her 10th-anniversary show bash into sales — first wholesale, and EU nations imported 494 million pairs to participate in Berlin Fashion last January to subletting space to now retail. of jeans in 2013, a gain of 8.6 percent Week, a spokeswoman said. Falke in her signature boutique to “It was clear that p.r. needs dis- over the prior year. The study, penned by In the meantime, among a help pay the rent as well as bring tribution and distribution needs Jean-François slate of other initiatives that in new customers. p.r.,” said Melanie Bauer, of the Limantour, includes sponsoring runway This season, she found unex- sales arm of the Prag management suggested, “Jeans slots and the Start Your Fashion pected peer support from Michael team. The 850-square-foot white are more than ever Business competition, the Senate Michalsky, who has invited cube opened in mid-April as a before an essential will be assisting Berlin designers Perbandt to join the Michalsky temporary concept, but looks to go item of clothing $4.9B to find co-op partners. Stylenite lineup, but with a dif- permanent. for any European VALUE OF JEANS SALES Cooperations of all sorts have ference. Perbandt will take to “We always thought it would be consumer, whatever IN THE EU IN 2013. been a saving grace for many the Stylenite stage as a singer, great to have all our collections in their age or sex.” young designers. The German Web her newly formed band all clad one space to illustrate our philoso- When it comes to shopping club Brands4Friends is in pieces from her spring collec- phy that our brands complement importing the blue commodity, Germany leads looking for a successor to its first tion. This will be Perbrandt’s only rather than compete with one an- the pack, bringing in 114 million pairs in 2013, co-op with Malaika Raiss, and showing of apparel. other,” said Bauer. Retailers often and clocking 7 percent annual increases in German Internet giant Zalando For his part, Michalsky said he’s buy three or more collections from import volume since 2005. will launch its fourth exclusive always been a big fan of Perbandt’s the Prag brand portfolio, she said, In terms of prices, however, the study designer apparel co-op collection “avant-garde, free mind-set,” and but the store is an additional real- showed Italy imports the most expensive with Tim Labenda this fall. noted the Stylenite format was con- life model for those who need fur- jeans (15 euros/$19.93 a pair) followed by Under its shoe and accessories ceived to include other designer ther convincing, as well as a help- Austria (10 euros/$13.28), Germany and private label Zign, Zalando is also presentations as well as music per- ful tool for the agency’s press work. Denmark (8.77 euros/$11.65), whereas the presenting a fall capsule collection formances. The last two seasons, And it’s reaching an interested average price for jeans imported by Spain, from Hien Le, who noted his con- however, he didn’t find anyone “in- consumer audience as well. the U.K., and France range from 6.66 to 7.26 sistent presence on the Berlin run- teresting enough, or whose fashion Designer Michael Sontag is also euros, or $8.85 to $9.60. ways has brought him more com- fit into the theme of the evening.” popping up — on the Berlin run- On the whole, however, prices have panies interested in collaborations way, after a two-season hiatus, and come down, with the average price of and consulting. In addition, with in Kreuzberg, with a special pre- imported jeans decreasing by 3.9 percent its designer sales platform Zalando view of his first store, still under in 2013, due to “the relative calm in cotton Lounge, up-and-coming designer construction and scheduled to of- prices” and the ongoing economic crisis, collections like Ivanman and LVC ficially open in the fall. the study noted. Rising cotton prices have been offered a chance not In business for five years, he generated average price rises of 6.6 and only to sell their wares on Zalando, said the store, though hardly in 5.4 percent in 2011 and 2012 respectively. but via detailed data, get a clearer a high-ticket, fashion-oriented Who produces Europe’s favorite blues? understanding of what works and neighborhood, makes sense. “I Turkey was the EU’s major supplier in doesn’t work with consumers. have a lot of private clients who 2013, beating out 2012 leader China, which The BBW University of Applied come to my atelier, which is near- moved to number three. Bangladesh is the Sciences in Berlin recently host- by, and I live in Kreuzberg as well. second-largest EU supplier, with Pakistan, ed its first “Focus on Fashion and This will be a real Sontag place. Tunisia, Morocco, Cambodia, Egypt, India Industry” conferences, with the aim “I’ve seen people [buying] and Vietnam retaining their respective 2012 of intensifying links between design- my product. It’s selling well in four-through-10 slots in 2013. — M.D.

ers, the manufacturing industry and [Department Store] Quartier 206,” IN 2013” REPORT “EU DENIM IMPORTS FRANKFURT-TEXWORLD’S EUROSTAT/MESSE SOURCE: retail. And the search extends far he continued. “But I decided it’s beyond. Jutta Ohms, whose head- time for me to do this as I see fit. hunting firm Ohms Consulting has It’ll send a positive signal to retail- been involved in some of Germany’s ers and put me on another footing.” Primary Suppliers of Jeans earliest design collaborations, noted He also thinks it will influence there’s more interest than ever, es- future collections, “for I’ll have To the European Union in 2013 pecially from industries not directly Prag’s pop-up shop more direct contact with my end related to fashion. aims to go permanent. consumer.” Under what she calls “cre- — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM SUSAN STONE

Shoe and accessories designer Hien Le is collaborating with Zalando’s Zign private label.

Esther Perbandt PERBANDT PHOTO BY BIRGIT KAULFUSS; ALL OTHERS BY MATTI HILLIG MATTI BIRGIT KAULFUSS; ALL OTHERS BY PERBANDT PHOTO BY

12 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 24, 2014 SECTION II

WWDBERLIN Bikini Berlin: The Newest Niche A novel approach to a retail center has a lot of moving parts. By Melissa Drier

CAN NICHE ACHIEVE critical mass? Berlin’s newest shopping center, Bikini The new shopping center in West Berlin. Berlin, is in the process of finding out. Marketed as Germany’s first concept mall, Bikini Berlin opened in April in the landmark Bikini-Haus (“Bikini House”) in the center of West Berlin. Situated between the Berlin Zoo railway station, the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church and Kurfürstendamm, Bikini- Haus, built in 1957, was an important symbol of reconstruction and revival in the still war-tattered city. Over the years, however, the building, which originally housed the Berlin Women’s Wear Center and later the Berlin Film Festival, fell into disrepair and neglect, its 656-foot- long frontage accommodating a hodge- podge of shabby enterprises. In 2002, Munich-based real estate company and developer Bayerische Hausbau bought the entire Zoo Center ensemble, including two high-rises and the adjoining Zoo Palast cinema. From the project’s start, however, the goal was not to create a conventional shopping center with big-name, mass-market an- chor tenants. Rather, the svelte Bikini- Haus — so-called by Berliners because the open colonnade in the middle, now glassed-in, cut the building into a bikini- like top and bottom — was to be filled with special, non-commonplace names in fashion and design, as well as assorted

And how’s business? “Actually very “Of course, with all the hype about good,” Murkudis told WWD. “AM+ is Bikini Berlin and the West these days, doing excellently, much better than we have a lot of onlookers who are curi- expected. We have many customers ous and coming to explore the complex, buying big-ticket items, like 1,000 euro but we’re also seeing a lot of sophisti- [$1,357] Porter bags and a lot of Acne. cated customers from Charlottenburg The furniture store has picked up in re- and Potsdam. This has been a positive cent weeks, and we’ve sold 400 pieces a thing for us — expanding our clientele,” month at Aspesi. It was my main store Kunimoto stated, though Gestalten’s core that was a bit slow in the beginning.” customers, “including young creatives Throughout opening weekend, 110,000 and design-savvy, discerning shoppers,” people a day surged to Bikini, then 50,000 are also frequenting the new location. and now about 20,000 people a day regu- The situation is spottier on the sec- larly visit Bikini during the week and up ond floor, which besides the Murkudis to 30,000 come on weekends. “In the be- spaces is highlighted by LNFA, a rough- ginning, a lot of people were just curious edged space featuring a revolving roster and didn’t buy,” noted Murkudis. Now, of Berlin labels and a store from design those who don’t want to “Shop Different,” legend Vitra. Schiesser is temporarily as Bikini Berlin’s ad campaign instructs, filling a gap with an exhibition of its “are staying away, and those who are in- limited series Artists for Revival under- terested are coming.” shirts, and Heldart is operating a semi- Inside Bikini Berlin. Jörg Ehrlich, who with Otto Drögsler private art space. Hannover’s high-end founded and owns Odeeh, and whose business-wear specialist, Terner, will store seamlessly connects to Murkudis enter in late summer. gastronomical offerings in about 183,000 ly upper Ku’damm, has seen a major and Aspesi, also said business “has been Observers say the layout is dark and square feet of sales space. The entire resurgence of prime retail activity in surprisingly good.” Sales have been on tight, and indeed it’s a challenge to see area has about 969,000 square feet of the last few years, Bikini’s position on plan, but more importantly, perhaps, into LNFA’s windows, though this doesn’t floor space, and a total of 550,000 square Hardenbergstrasse had no proven con- for the brand’s first retail venture, is seem to have impacted the performance feet of rental space. sumer traffic, particularly with the kind “we’re gaining a lot of experience with Construction (to the tune of a nine-dig- of design-oriented, upmarket clientele the customers. A high percentage are it investment in the Zoo Center complex) Bikini was hoping to attract. Berlin people and, of course, there are began in late 2010. A new architectural Murkudis is a big fan of the landmark tourists: lots of Scandinavians and some extension — the so-called “Bikini Pool” building, and not only took space on the Americans. Some buy one piece, others — runs parallel to the original Bikini- third floor with its roof garden entry really shop and go away with five or six Haus edifice. This not only considerably for his signature AM concept store and items,” he said. But not before 4 p.m. expands the available sales space on the neighboring Aspesi shop, but space on “It’s an evening business for us, and first two floors, but permits a direct view the second floor for his new younger the main days are Monday evening plus into the zoo’s fauna and flora through platform, AM+, and yet another ad- Thursday and Friday. It seems people panorama windows on the ground level, joining area specifically for furniture. who are busy prefer to stay home on and from the sprawling 75,000-square-foot Joining him on the patio level is book Saturday,” Ehrlich suggested. rooftop oasis that runs the entire length publisher Gestalten — which operates With its café, Gestalten does get morn- of the building on the third floor. a café in its Pavilion, in addition to a ing traffic, and through to the evening The smaller high-rise to the back is greatly extended selection of books and with people “wanting to have drinks and now the trendy 25hours Hotel, its res- design objects compared with its origi- enjoy the sunset on the big outdoor ter- taurant and the Monkey Bar generally nal store in Mitte — and Supermarket, race,” said Lina Kunimoto, head of mar- booked out, and the lovingly restored the Belgrade-based concept store whose keting. Business has been “strong and but fully modernized Zoo Palast cinema first German door here also includes a steady.” What’s surprising, she noted, is also one of the hottest tickets in town. café. Mauro Grifoni is also on hand is how varied the customer base is for Bayerische Hausbau enlisted with its first outpost in the country, as is the store’s wares, which range from ar- local concept-store pioneer Andreas Odeeh, the German designer label that tisanal chocolate to high-end design ob- Murkudis to advise on the tenant chose Bikini Berlin for its retail debut. jects, including exclusive collaborations search, which proved to be no easy task. Premiata, Address, Umasan, Parosh and like Elisa Strozyk’s collection of wooden Odeeh

Though the west side of town, especial- Gianni also contribute to the mix. textile runners for the Bikini store. HILLIG MATTI PHOTOS BY WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 24, 2014 13 WWD.COM

of Sevil Uguz’s platform for younger or lesser- lic. But with support, they get utterly excited.” known designers. There are currently 39 de- Compared with this experimental out- signer collections at LNFA. “It’s going great. post, some of the ground floor’s key shops We’re booked out for the next half-year,” said strike some observers as more of a stop- Uguz, whom Bikini management asked to gap measure than a curatorial solution. come aboard. “You’re doing something dif- “Upstairs is coherent, downstairs is not,” one ferent, they said, and I knew a lot of design- Bikini tenant remarked. ers, all of whom have problems finding [sales] The lineup currently includes Closed, agencies and trouble earning money under Mykita, Kusmi Tea, Schiesser Revival, Carhartt the normal retail conditions. So we started.” WIP, Vans, Gant, Anna Kraft, Reisenthel, Another pet project of Bayerische Riccardo Cartillone, Naracamicie, Teufel/

Hausbau is Supernova, Bikini Berlin’s “re- Raumfeld, Cyberport and Berlin Store, with tail future lab,” which features prominently Manila Grace slated to open in July. at one of the main entrances. Curated by For Closed, however, “it was a statement Berlin creative agency Kemmler Kemmler, for the brand to be in this location, as it set out the goal is to “redefine the function of retail to be something unique and conceptual. It’s a in the digital age,” according to Bayerische great path we took,” said Til Nadler, managing Hausbau. It presents·· experimental formats partner of sales and marketing, “due to the fact set to change every three months. that we’re on the ground floor and visible from The first, running through July 13, cel- the street. We’re getting comments that finally, ebrates soccer during World Cup season Closed has come to Berlin. Obviously, though Andreas Murkudis’ signature AM concept store. and features products by Nike and Berlin we’re in [Berlin stores including] KaDeWe, streetwear retailer Firmament in an interac- 14 oz., Peek & Cloppenburg and Mientus, we tive environment sparked by monitors flash- never made that impression.” ing old sci-fi films, a virtual playing field in Nadler also noted Closed is benefiting from Gestalten which consumers can test their soccer skills a well-heeled and informed Berliner clientele and a chicken-wire stadium in which players at Bikini, as well as tourists. “It feels like a re- can take their place on the winner’s podium. sort destination. We had the highest turnover on Ascension Day [May 29] ever.” The largest source of contention, however, are the ground floor’s Bikini [After a few weeks], Boxes: temporary wooden modules that brands of all sizes and ilks can you need new events, rent from three to 12 months to test the retail waters. At present, the 24 boxes new activities, new shop include purveyors of tea and cookies, puzzles, hair stylists and nail bars, cosmetics, young T-shirts and street windows, new stories to fashion labels, at-home wear, design products, accessories and jewelry. keep your shop fresh. Some say the units look like Christmas market booths crossed with trade-show — KATHARINA KEMMLER, stands, others say they make a prison- KEMMLER KEMMLER like impression, due to the wire that encloses them. While going well, it’s been a learning “It’s a really nice idea to give younger experience, admitted Katharina Kemmler. brands a testing ground,” commented one The main lessons: Hold on to half your bud- Bikini retailer, who requested anonym- get to keep things fresh. ity. “But I find the architecture tricky. The “A lot of shops — including us — spend al- chicken wire and wood is OK for jeans, but most all of their energy and budget on creat- it doesn’t work for something more delicate ing fancy architecture that looks ··lovely,” she like lingerie. And without them smack in remarked. But after a few weeks, “you need the middle of the Bikini Pool space, one new events, new activities, new shop win- could do a huge restaurant-café that would dows, new stories to keep your shop fresh.” function well in winter too with the panora- To this end, Kemmler recently enlisted ma windows looking out into the zoo.” the Swiss concept store June to install a For Christophe Scharf, BNP Paribas’ new separate women’s corner. head of retail in Germany, the main issue Lesson 2: People don’t want to shop in is placement. “They could have used a the dark. The team’s idea of a “dark, aggres- larger store to realize the same goal, es- sive, brutalistic science fiction world…works pecially with empty space available. But great in photos, mood boards and videos, but to give them the best location…” he said people actually like some light when shop- of the boxes. Moreover, their position in ping [so they can] see the product.” the middle “means you can’t see one side Lastly, even in this high-tech age, keep it [of the mall]. And if you enter Bikini from simple, she advised. “You can put a big red Breitscheidplatz, you can’t see the main button in your store with a sign saying, ‘Please staircase leading up to the other floors. push here.’ And people will still be confused There have been some problems and mis- about what to do with this piece of technology.” takes on the construction side.” Sales assistants are crucial on the floor Nonetheless, he summed up, “this part to give encouragement, “because people are of Breitscheidplatz has always been an ugly Supermarket very afraid to embarrass themselves in pub- part of Berlin, and that has now changed.”

Nike’s display in the Supernova area. Aspesi 14 WWD TUESDAY, JUNE 24, 2014 SECTION II WWD.COM

WWDBERLIN Fashion Week Calendar Following are the runway and trade-show schedules for Berlin Fashion Week. Times and locations are accurate as of press time but subject to change, and attendees are encouraged to confirm all information. Invitations are required for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin shows.

VENUES Tel.: +49-30-629-0850 Erika-Hess Ice Stadium, 185 Bread & Butter is held at the Tempelhof airport. Web: [email protected] or Muellerstrasse. Location of Mercedes- premiumexhibitions.de Benz Fashion Week Berlin (MBFWB) runway shows, unless otherwise July 8-10: Seek, contemporary brands, noted. Kuehlhaus, 3 Luckenwalder Strasse Bikini Berlin, 38-50 Budapester Strasse Contact: Seek Exhibitions at Premium Tischlerei der Deutschen Oper Berlin, 35 Exhibitions GmbH Bismarckstrasse Tel.: +49-30-6290-8511 Kronprinzenpalais, 3 Unter den Linden Web: [email protected], or seekexhibitions.com RUNWAY SHOWS AND EVENTS July 7 July 8-10: Panorama Berlin, fashion fair Noon-5 p.m.: Zeit Magazin Conference for women’s and men’s collections, Mode & Stil “Selfie Couture — Die Berlin ExpoCenter City, Jafféstrasse/ Schönheit des Netzes,” Café Moskau, South Entrance 34 Karl-Marx-Allee Contact: Panorama Fashion Fair 6 p.m.: Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week GmbH Berlin Opening Night by Grazia, Tel.: +49-30-27-595-6040 MBFWB, Erika-Hess Ice Stadium Web: [email protected], or MBFWB, Erika-Hess Ice Stadium 7:30 p.m.: Vladimir Karaleev panorama-berlin.com July 8 3-5 p.m.: Vogue Salon, Hotel de Rome, Fashion Show, (off-site) MBFWB, 10 a.m.: Julian Zigerli, Runway, 37 Behrenstrasse Kronprinzenpalais July 8-10: Bright, Warenhaus Jandorf, MBFWB, Erika-Hess Ice Stadium 4:30 p.m.: Clemens En August, (off-site) 8 p.m.: Dimitri, Runway, MBFWB, trade show for streetwear and 10 a.m.-8 p.m.: Harper’s Bazaar pop-up MBFWB, Palais am Festungsgraben, 1 Erika-Hess Ice Stadium skateboard fashion, Warenhaus BAAR, Bikini Berlin Am Festungsgraben 8:30 p.m.: Reserved Show & Party, Alte Jandorf, 19-21 Brunnenstrasse 10:30 a.m.: Ivanman, Stage, MBFWB, 5 p.m.: Aleks Kurkowski, Stage, Muenze, 2 Am Kroegel Contact: Bright GmbH & Co. KG Erika-Hess Ice Stadium MBFWB, Erika-Hess Ice Stadium 9 p.m.: BurdaStyle Cocktail, Villa von Tel.: +49-69-6696-2157 11:30 a.m.: Lena Hoschek, Runway, 5:30 p.m.: “Designer for Tomorrow” der Heydt, 18 Von-der-Heydt-Strasse Web: [email protected] or MBFWB, Erika-Hess Ice Stadium Award, Runway, MBFWB, Erika-Hess 9:15 p.m.: Universität der Künste, brighttradeshow.com 1 p.m.: Rebekka Ruétz, Runway, Ice Stadium Runway, MBFWB, Erika-Hess Ice MBFWB, Erika-Hess Ice Stadium 7-9 p.m.: Fashion Germany Book Stadium July 8-10: Show & Order, platform 2 p.m.: Dyn, Stage, MBFWB, Erika- Launch by Martina Rink with for designer and high-end labels, Hess Ice Stadium MCM Book Cover, The Corner, 40 July 11 Kraftwerk Berlin-Mitte, 70 Köpenicker 3 p.m.: Michael Sontag, Runway, Französische Strasse 10 a.m.: Hien Le, Runway, MBFWB, Strasse MBFWB, Erika-Hess Ice Stadium 7:30 p.m.: Lala Berlin, (off-site) Erika-Hess Ice Stadium Contact: Show & Order GmbH 4:30 p.m.: C’est Tout/Ce’ Nou, Runway, MBFWB, Tischlerei der Deutschen 10 a.m.-8 p.m.: Harper’s Bazaar pop-up Tel.: 49-30-5770-4181 MBFWB, Erika-Hess Ice Stadium Oper Berlin BAAR, Bikini Berlin Web: [email protected] or 5 p.m.: Brachmann, Stage, MBFWB, 7-10 p.m.: Closed presentation, Monkey 10:30 a.m.: Sissi Goetze, Stage, showandorder.de Erika-Hess Ice Stadium Bar 25hours Hotel, Bikini Berlin MBFWB, Erika-Hess Ice Stadium 6 p.m.: Riani, Runway, MBFWB, Erika- 8 p.m.: Patrick Mohr meets Reebok 11:30 a.m.: Anne Gorke, Runway, July 8-10: Greenshowroom Berlin, Hess Ice Stadium Classic, (off-site) MBFWB, Solebox, 16 MBFWB, Erika-Hess Ice Stadium international trade fair for exclusive 7 p.m.: Elle Soirée Privée, Lapidarium, Nürnberger Strasse 1 p.m.: Miranda Konstantinidou, sustainable design in fashion and 78, Hallesches Ufer 8:30 p.m.: Guido Maria Kretschmer, Runway, MBFWB, Erika-Hess Ice accessories, Hotel Adlon Kempinski, 77 7 p.m.: Start Your Business, Runway, Runway, MBFWB, Erika-Hess Ice Stadium Unter den Linden Kronprinzenpalais Stadium 2 p.m.: Vektor, Stage, MBFWB, Erika- Contact: Messe Frankfurt Exhibition 7 p.m.: Bread & Butter Berlin Opening 9 p.m.: Vogue Fashion Night, Hess Ice Stadium GmbH Party & Public World Cup Screening, Borchardt, 47 Französische Strasse 3 p.m.: Marina Hoermanseder, Runway, Tel.: +49-69-75-750 Flughafen Berlin-Tempelhof MBFWB, Erika-Hess Ice Stadium Web: [email protected], or 7-9 p.m.: Marc O’Polo Pure — July 10 4:30 p.m.: Irene Luft, Runway, greenshowroom.com Collection Preview, Chipperfield 10 a.m.: Schumacher, (off-site) MBFWB, Erika-Hess Ice Stadium Kantine, 11 Joachimstrasse MBFWB, St. Elisabeth-Kirche, 3 5 p.m.: Odeur, Stage, MBFWB, Erika- July 8-10: Ethical Fashion Show Berlin, 7-10 p.m.: Set/Interview magazine Invalidenstrasse Hess Ice Stadium international trade fair for eco-fair Rooftop Party, Soho House, 1 10 a.m.-8 p.m.: Harper’s Bazaar pop-up 5 p.m.: Bianca Fleisch Presentation, street and casualwear, ewerk Berlin, Torstrasse BAAR, Bikini Berlin location TBA 43 Wilhelmstrasse 8 p.m.: Kilian Kerner, Runway, 10:30 a.m.: Rike Feurstein, Stage, 6 p.m.: Chatty, Runway, MBFWB, Erika- Contact: Messe Frankfurt Exhibition MBFWB, Erika-Hess Ice Stadium MBFWB, Erika-Hess Ice Stadium Hess Ice Stadium GmbH 9:30 p.m.: 1981, Maxhosa by Laduma, 11:30 a.m.: Roshi Porkar, Runway, 8 p.m.: Dare by Johny Dar, Runway, Tel.: +49-69-75-750 Soboye (Africa Fashion Day Berlin), MBFWB, Erika-Hess Ice Stadium MBFWB, Erika-Hess Ice Stadium Web: contact@ethicalfashionshowberlin. Runway, MBFWB, Erika-Hess Ice Noon: Perret Schaad, (off-site) MBFWB, 9 p.m.: Michalsky Stylenite with guest com, or ethicalfashionshowberlin.com Stadium Kronprinzenpalais label Esther Perbandt, Tempodrom, 10 1 p.m.: Laurèl Fashion Show, MBFWB, Moeckernstrasse July 8-10: Curvy is Sexy, plus-size fashion July 9 Erika-Hess Ice Stadium trade show, Römischer Hof — Palazzo 10 a.m.: Anja Gockel, Runway, 1:30 p.m.: Mercedes-Benz Press TRADE FAIRS Italia, 10 Unter den Linden MBFWB, Erika-Hess Ice Stadium Vernissage, Bikini Berlin July 8-11: Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Contact: SonnDesign GmbH 10 a.m.-8 p.m.: Harper’s Bazaar pop-up 2 p.m.: So Popular, Stage, MBFWB, Berlin, Erika-Hess Ice Stadium, 185 Tel.: +49-815-1998-5980 BAAR, Bikini Berlin Erika-Hess Ice Stadium Muellerstrasse Web: curvy-is-sexy.com 10:30 a.m.: Franziska Michael, Stage, 3 p.m.: Umasan, Runway, MBFWB, Contact: IMG MBFWB, Erika-Hess Ice Stadium Erika-Hess Ice Stadium Tel.: 49-30-8892-2890 July 8-9: Capsule Show, men’s and 11:30 a.m.: Glaw, Runway, MBFWB, 3:30 p.m.: Augustin Teboul, (off-site) Web: [email protected] women’s fashion, Postbahnhof, 8 Erika-Hess Ice Stadium MBFWB, Galerie Judin, 83 Potsdamer Strasse der Pariser Kommune Noon: Dawid Tomaszewski, (off-site) Strasse July 8-10: Bread & Butter Berlin, trade Contact: BPMW MBFWB, Tischlerei der Deutschen 4:30 p.m.: Marc Cain, Runway, show for selected brands, Flughafen Tel.: 212-206-8310 Oper Berlin MBFWB, Erika-Hess Ice Stadium Berlin-Tempelhof, 5 Platz der Web: [email protected], or 1 p.m.: Minx by Eva Lutz, Runway, 5 p.m.: Isabell de Hillerin, Stage, Luftbrücke capsuleshow.com MBFWB, Erika-Hess Ice Stadium MBFWB, Erika-Hess Ice Stadium Contact: Bread & Butter GmbH 1:30 p.m.: Frida Weyer, (off-site) 6 p.m.: Malaikaraiss, Runway, MBFWB, Tel.: 49-30-200-0370 July 8-9: LondonEdge, punk and Gothic MBFWB, Historische Kassenhalle am Erika-Hess Ice Stadium Web: breadandbutter.com fashion show, Adagio Berlin, 1 Gendarmenmarkt, Humboldt Carré, 42 6-10 p.m.: Lacoste Live, Katz Orange, Marlene-Dietrich-Platz Behrenstrasse 22 Bergstrasse July 8-10: Premium and Premium Men, men’s Contact: LondonEdge Ltd. 2 p.m.: Barre Noire, Stage, MBFWB, 7 p.m.: Holy Ghost, (off-site) MBFWB, and women’s fashion fair, Station-Berlin, Tel.: +44-116-298-8249 Erika-Hess Ice Stadium Supermarket Concept Space, Bikini 4-6 Luckenwalder Strasse Web: [email protected], or 3 p.m.: Marcel Ostertag, Runway, Berlin Contact: Premium Exhibitions II GmbH londonedge.com EVERY THURSDAY IN WWD

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