Behind the Scenes
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©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 305 Behind the Scenes SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – and the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/privacy. Paterson, Miriam Bers, Claudia Scheffler, OUR READERS Regine Schneider, Ubin Eoh, Frank Engster, Many thanks to the travellers who used Heiner and Claudia Schuster, Renate Freiling, the last edition and wrote to us with Silke Neumann, Kirsten Schmidt, Christian helpful hints, useful advice and inter- Tänzler, Julia Ana Herchenbach, Johann esting anecdotes: Annette Castro, Tom Drinkwater, Patrick Frew, Moran Gur, John Scharfe, Shachar and Doreen Elkanati, Ariela Ingman, Anders Jeppsson, Olli Löfberg, Abramovici-Dähne, Craig Robinson, Mike Torben Retboll, Lis Robinson, Sylvia Suvaal, Meinke, Virginia Shmuel, Jan Czyszke and, of Ann Wallace course, David Peevers. AUTHOR THANKS ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Berlin S+U-Bahn Map © 2014 Kartographie Andrea Schulte-Peevers Berliner Verkehrsbetrieben (BVG). Big, heartfelt thanks to all of these wonderful people who plied me with tips, insights, Cover photograph: Berliner Dom with the information, ideas and encouragement (in no Fernsehturm in the background, Miles Ert- particular order): Henrik Tidefjärd, Susan man/Robert Harding World Imagery/Corbis. 306 BEHIND THE SCENES THIS BOOK Destination Editors Gemma Assisting Cartographer Graham, Anna Tyler Corey Hutchison This 9th edition of Lonely Planet’s Berlin guidebook Product Editor Carolyn Boicos Cover Researcher Naomi was researched and written Senior Cartographer Valentina Parker by Andrea Schulte-Peevers. Kremenchutskaya Assisting Book Designers The previous two editions Book Designer Clara Monitto Wibowo Rusli, Wendy Wright were also written by Andrea. Assisting Editors Kate Thanks to Sasha Baskett, Elin This guidebook was com- Berglund, Ryan Evans, Larissa missioned in Lonely Planet’s Mathews, Anne Mulvaney, London office, and produced Charlotte Orr, Kirsten Rawlings, Frost, Jouve India, Wayne by the following: Sally Schafer, Saralinda Turner Murphy, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Lauren Wellicome ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 307 See also separate subindexes for: 5 EATING P311 6 DRINKING & NIGHTLIFE P312 3 ENTERTAINMENT P313 7 SHOPPING P313 Index 4 SLEEPING P314 Bodemuseum 107-8 Checkpoint Charlie 93 A B books 246 chemists 295 Abguss-Sammlung Antiker Badeschiff 155 architecture 270 children, travel with 28-9, 43 Plastik Berlin 205 bars 57, 59, 63, see also history 253, 260, 261 Chinesisches Haus accommodation 15, 229-44, Drinking & Nightlife (Potsdam) 217-18 see also individual subindex literature 281-2 Chipperfield, David 105, 277 neighbourhoods bathrooms 298 music 284, 285 Christmas markets 27, 26 costs 230, 231 Bauhaus Archiv 129 Botanischer Garten (Dahlem) 225 Christopher Street Day 25 language 299 Bauhaus movement 129, cinemas 69-70, 72 websites 230 272, 279 Boulevard der Stars 122 City West & Charlottenburg activities 27, see also Bowie, David 131, 132, 285 Bebelplatz 90 79, 199-214, , individual activities Boxhagener Platz 174 199 338-9 Becker, Wolfgang 283 accommodation 242-4 air travel 288-9 Boxhagener Platz area 177-8, beer 59-60, 60 drinking & nightlife Akademie der Künste 179-80 Begas, Reinhold 279 200, 211-13 84, 129 Brandenburger Tor 7, 84, Behrens, Peter 271 entertainment 213 Alexanderplatz, see 6-7, 84 Belvedere auf dem food 200, 207-11 Museumsinsel & Brecht-Weigel Gedenkstätte Klausberg (Potsdam) Alexanderplatz 140 highlights 12, 199, 201-5, 218 206, 208 AlliiertenMuseum Breitscheidplatz fountain Belvedere Pfingstberg (Grunewald & Dahlem) 207 shopping 213-14 (Potsdam) 221 225 breweries 60 sights 201-7, 208, 209, 210 Bergmannkiez 155-6, 158, Alte Börse Marzahn 146 Bröhan Museum 205 transport 200 164-5 classical music 34, 68-9, 72, Alte Königliche Bibliothek 91 Brücke-Museum (Dahlem) Berlin Airlift 155, 260, 261 147, 284 Alte Münze 114 225 Berlin Dungeon 111-12 climate 15, 24, 25, 26, 27, 32 Alte Nationalgalerie 108-9, Bücher Tauschbaum 189 Berlin Marathon 27 clothing sizes 296 109 Buchstabenmuseum 115 Berlin Wall 9, 35-40, 173, clubs 20-1, 59, 63, see also Alter Jüdischer Friedhof 142 budgeting 14, 33-4, 51, 175, 186-7, 261-3, 38-9, Drinking & Nightlife Altes Museum 106-7, 105 57, 294 35, 36, 38, 39 subindex Altes Stadthaus 114 Bundeskanzleramt 88 Berlin Wall History Mile 37 C/O Berlin 209 ambulance 294 Bundespräsidialamt 128 Berlin Zoo 206 Cold War 259-63 Anne Frank Zentrum 141 Bundesrepublik Deutschland Berlinale 24, 70 sights 21, 33, 42 apartment rental 230, 240 259-60 Berliner Dom 115, comedy shows 71 aquariums 111, 206 271 Bundestag 82 Berliner Kindl-Schultheiss Computerspielemuseum Archenhold Sternwarte 159 bunkers, Nazi-era 90, 138 Brauerei 60 175, 177 architecture 21, 43, 266-77 tours 188, 293 Berliner Mauerweg 40 costs 14, 51, 57, 231, 294, 297 area codes 297 bus travel 212, 288, 289-90 credit cards 17, 296 art 11, 44-9, 278-80 Berliner Medizinhistorisches Museum 140 tours 293 cruises, see boat tours art galleries, see museums business hours 45, 51, 57, culture 247 & galleries Berliner Philharmonie 126, 133, 274, 74, 296 currency 296 ATM Gallery Berlin 47 275 Berliner Secession 278-9 Currywurst 53 ATMs 17, 295-6 customs regulations 294, 295 Aufbau Haus 157 Berliner Stadtschloss 13, 115 C cabaret 23, 71, 72 cycling 291, 292 AVUS 210 Berlinische Galerie 155, 46 bicycle travel, see cycling Café Sibylle 175 tours 292-3 Bildergalerie (Potsdam) 217 car travel 291-2 Bismarck Denkmal 128 cell phones 14, 297 Sights 000 D BlackBox Kalter Krieg 92 Chamissoplatz 156 Dada movement 280 Map Pages 000 Block der Frauen 111 Charlottenburg, see City Dahlem 224-6 Photo Pages 000 boat tours 226, 228, 293 West & Charlottenburg Daimler Contemporary 122 308 DaimlerCity 126 Einstürzende Neubauten shopping 183 Dalí - Die Ausstellung 126 285 sights 173-7 H Hackesche Höfe 139 dance 71 electricity 294 transport 172 Hackescher Markt area dangers 297 emergencies 294, 301-2 Friedrichstadtpassagen 92 138-40, 141, 143-4, 145-6 Das Verborgene Museum Englischer Garten 128 Friedrichstrasse 92-3, hamams 152 207 entertainment 68-72, 95, 96 Hamburger Bahnhof – INDEX DDR Museum 112 see also Entertainment Friedrichswerdersche Museum für Gegenwart Demnig, Gunter 144 subindex, individual Kirche 91 neighbourhoods 136, 136 Denkmal der Funkturm 210 Ephraim-Palais 112-13 Hanf Museum 113 D Spanienkämpfer 174 Hansa Studios 132 - etiquette 17, 59 H Denkmal des Polnischen G Hansaviertel 274, 274 Soldaten und Europa-Center 206 galleries, see museums & des deutschen events 24-7, 66, 283 Hauptbahnhof area 140-1, galleries 144 Antifaschisten 174 exchanging money 296 gardens 22, see also Hauptmann, Gerhard 281 Denkmal für die im individual gardens Nationalsozialismus Haus der Kulturen der ermordeten Sinti und F Gartenstadt Falkenberg Welt 88 Roma Europas 89 Falkplatz 190-1 273 Haus Schwarzenberg 141 Denkmal für die im Fernsehturm 110, 3, 110 Gaslaternenmuseum 128 Heckmannhöfe 138 Nationalsozialismus festivals & events 24-7, gay travellers 64-7, 239 Hellersdorf 262 verfolgten 66, 283 Gedenkort Weisse Kreuze Henselmann, Hermann 273 Homosexuellen 89 88 FHXB Friedrichshain- hip-hop music 286 Der Verlassene Raum 142 Gedenkstätte Berliner Kreuzberg Museum 156 Historic Mitte 78, 80-97, Mauer 13, 186-7, 186 Deutscher Dom 87 film 69-70, 246, 282-3, 286 80, 322-3 Gedenkstätte Deutscher Deutsches Currywurst fire services 294 accommodation 233-4 Museum 93 Widerstand 127 first-time visitors 16-17 drinking & nightlife 81, Gedenkstätte Haus der Deutsches Historisches Fontane, Theodor 281 95-6 Museum 86 Wannsee-Konferenz food 30, 50-5, see also (Wannsee) 226 entertainment 96 Deutsches Technikmuseum Eating subindex, Gedenkstätte Stille Helden food 81, 94-5 155 individual 141 highlights 7, 10, 80, 82-7, Deutsch-Russisches neighbourhoods Gedenkstätte und Museum 89, 93 Museum Berlin- children, travel with 29 Karlshorst (Köpenick) Sachsenhausen shopping 97 costs 51 228 222-3, 41 sights 82-93 language 300-1 Dietrich, Marlene 283 Gehry, Frank 277 transport 81 opening hours 51 Diplomatenviertel 129, Gemäldegalerie 123-5, Historische Mühle 276 specialities 50, 53 125, 123 (Potsdam) 218 disabilities, travellers websites 53 Gendarmenmarkt 87, 87 Historischer Hafen Berlin with 298 football 32 Gendarmenmarkt area 113, 115 Döblin, Alfred 281 Former Reichsluftfahrt- 91-2, 94-6 history 248-65, see also Domäne Dahlem 29 ministerium 93 gentrification 193, 247 Jewish Berlin Dorotheenstädtischer Foster, Norman 82, 276 Georg Kolbe Museum 210 Battle of Berlin 257-8 Friedhof 141 Frank, Anne 141 German Democratic Berlin Airlift 155, 260, 261 drinking & nightlife 30-1, Franziskaner Klosterkirche Republic 260 Berlin Wall 9, 35-40, 173, 56-63, see also 114 German