sign in sign up
<<
Home , Air Excel, Arusha National Park, Diani Beach, Fort Jesus, Jumba la Mtwana, Katavi National Park

INDEX

See also Accommodations and Restaurant indexes, below.

GENERAL INDEX African sleeping sickness, 38 Kilwa and Mikindani, Afric’Aventure (Dar es 471–472 Salaam), 306 Moshi or Marangu, alyshah Designs (Shela), A Aga Khan University Hospital 445–447 298 (Nairobi), 79 , , 491 , 33–34 476 AAR Emergency AirKenya, 31 Selous , Ambulance, 78 Amboseli, 104 466 AA Shuttles, 29 Laikipia Plateau, 211 the , 426 Abasuba Community Peace , 283 , 340–341 Museum (Mfangano), 198 Meru National Park, 140 Tanga, 332 Abasuba tribe, 197–198 , 250, 252 in , 33–34 Abercrombie & Kent, 47, 208 Mount , 127 to Tanzania, 30 Aberdare Country Club Nairobi, 71, 78 Albatros Travel, 47 (Kenya), 135 Samburu National Reserve, Altitude sickness, 39 Aberdare National Park 227–228 Aman (Shela), 298 (Kenya), 58, 60, 125, Tanzania, , 385 Amboni Caves (Tanzania), 132–135 , 33 332 Access-Able Travel Source, 42 Air travel Amboseli National Park Accessible Journeys, 42 jet lag, 29 (Kenya), 61, 103–110 Accommodations. See also Kenya Ambulances Accommodations Index Amboseli National Mombasa, 252 best, 6–9 Park, 104 Nairobi, 78 island lodgings, 13–14 Baringo, 161 American Embassy Memorial most romantic safari to Kenya, 29 Garden (Nairobi), 81 destinations, 1–4 within Kenya, 31 American Express, Nairobi, 78 safari, 54–55 Laikipia Plateau, 211 Ancient Ost Afrika tented camps, 19–20, 55 Lake Turkana, 237–238 (Bagamoyo), 328 argument for, 20–21 , 196 &Beyond, 47, 56, 430 best, 8–9 Lamu, 283 Anglican Cathedral Church of tips on, 53–56 Masai Mara, 171 Christ (Stone Town), 346 Adamson, Joy, 139 Meru National Park, A Novel Idea (), Adventure and wellness 140 308 trips, 50 Mombasa, 250–252 Antelopes, 499–503 The Africa Adventure Co., 46 Mount Kenya, 127 , 160, 162, Africa Concours D’Elegance Nairobi, 71, 78 464, 473, 475, 477, 500 (Nairobi), 27 Naivasha, 147 sable, 501–502 ,COPYRIGHTED 499 MATERIAL Samburu National Antique Makonde Carvers African dormouse, 506 Reserve, 227–228 Workshop (Arusha), African Dream (Dar es Tsavo National Park, 387–388 Salaam), 324 116 A.P.D.K. Fair Trade Shop African Heritage House (Nai- Tanzania, 302 (Nairobi), 96 robi), 86 Gombe Stream, Aqua Ventures (Watamu), African Lily (Nairobi), 96 Mahale and Katavi, 274 The African Modern Art Park 481 Arabuko-Sokoke Forest (Bagamoyo), 327 (Kenya), 274–275 Archer’s Post (Kenya), 239

224_285589-bindex.indd4_285589-bindex.indd 517517 44/1/10/1/10 22:29:29 PPMM 518 Area codes Ballooning, 10 Tanzania, 30, 304 Dar es Salaam and safaris dhow cruise to Tanzania, 307 Masai Mara (Kenya), Bongoyo, 323 Kenya, 484 183 Rufiji River, 11–12 Mombasa, 252 the Serengeti Boda-bodas Nairobi, 78 (Tanzania), 428 Kenya, 33 Tanzania, 487 The Banana Box (Nairobi), 97 Tanzania, 35 Art galleries Banded , 492 Bogoria, Lake (Kenya), 144, Dar es Salaam (Tanzania), Banks 159–164 321–323 Dar es Salaam, 308 (near Mombasa), Kenya Nairobi, 79 254 Lamu, 298 Baobab trees, 400 Bookstop (Nairobi), 79 Nairobi, 97–100 Barclays Bank (Dar es Bookstores The Art of Ventures, 147 Salaam), 308 Dar es Salaam, 308 Arusha Declaration Museum, Baringo, Lake (Kenya), 10, Nairobi, 79 387 144, 158–164 Border crossings, Kenya, 29 Bat-eared fox, 492 Boribu Sandbar (), (Tanzania), 387 Bawe Island (Zanzibar), 360 357 Arusha (Tanzania), 64, 66, “Beach boys” (Kenya), 260 Boskovic Air Charters, 384–397 Beaches. See also specific 31, 211, 228 accommodations and beaches British Airways, 78, 307 restaurants, 389–397 Kenya, 62–63 Broadbill (charter boat), 259 currency exchange, 386 “beach boys,” 260 Brussels Airlines, 78 emergencies, 386 nude and topless Budget, 34 exploring the area, 387 sunbathing, 260 Buffalo Springs (Kenya), getting around, 386 shells and coral, 260 225–237 hospital, 386 Tanzania, 67 Bujora Sukuma Museum Internet access, 386 Dar es Salaam, (), 438 pharmacy, 386 323–324 Burguret (Kenya), 128 police, 386 Behind the Mask, 42 Bush and Beyond, 15, 54, post office, 386 Beit el Amani Memorial 55, 77 shopping, 387–389 Museum (Stone Town), 346 Bushbabies, 497 traveling to, 385 Bey, Amir Ali, 249–250 Bush Homes of , visitor information, Diary series (BBC), 152 385–386 179, 182 Business hours, Kenya, 484 when to go, 386 Bilharzia, 38, 197 Bus travel Asilia, 47 Bill Winter Safaris, 50 Kenya, 32, 33 Association of Independent Bio-Ken Laboratory and Tanzania, 35, 385 Tour Operators (AITO), 45 Snake Farm (near Watamu), Athi River, 118 275 ATMs (automated-teller Bird-watching, 24 Calendar of events, 26–27 machines), 37 Kenya Calving season, 24 Dar es Salaam, 307 Arabuko-Sokoke Camels, Laikipia (Kenya), 11 Nairobi, 78–79 Forest, 274–275 Camel safaris, Kenya, 214 Australia Kakamega Forest, 204 Canada customs regulations, 28 Lake Baringo, 158 customs regulations, 28 High Commission, Nairobi, Lake Bogoria, 159–160 High Commission 79, 484 Lake Nakuru, 153 Dar es Salaam, 488 visas, 486 safaris, 48 Nairobi, 79, 484 Avis, 32, 34 Black-backed jackal, 492–493 visas, 486 Awaken to Africa, 47 Black Tomato, 47, 114 Carbonfund, 45 Blixen, Karen (Isak Dinesen), Carbon Neutral, 45 123, 190 Carjackings, 32, 40 Baboon Cliff (Lake Nakuru), Museum (Nairobi), 84–85 Car rentals 154 Blue Rhino (Lamu), 298 Dar es Salaam, 308 Baboons, olive, 498 Boat trips and tours Kenya, 32 Bagamoyo Talent Studio, 327 Kenya, 29 Carrier, 55 Bagamoyo (Tanzania), dhow cruises, 291 327–329 Lake Baringo, 161 Lamu, 286

224_285589-bindex.indd4_285589-bindex.indd 518518 44/1/10/1/10 22:29:29 PMPM Car travel. See also Road Crocodiles, 4 Disabilities, travelers with, 42 519 travel Kenya, 118, 158, 172 Discover SCUBA course in Kenya, 31–32 Cross-border violence, 41 (Mafia Island), 377 in Tanzania, 34 Cuisine, Kenyan coast, 248 Doctors and dentists, Castle Royal Hotel Cultural Heritage Company Nairobi, 79 (Mombasa), 252 (Arusha), 388–389 Dolphins, snorkeling with Catholic Museum Culture and history, best (Zanzibar), 357–358 (Bagamoyo), 327 places for, 12–13 Doreen Mashika (Stone Cattle rustling, 41 Currency and currency Town), 347 Caving, Chyulu Hills (Kenya), exchange, 35–37 Driftwood Beach Club 113 Nairobi, 79 (), 274 Cellphones, Kenya, 19, 52–53 Tanzania, 306 Drinking laws Cellular Abroad, 53 Arusha, 386 Kenya, 484 Central Highlands of Kenya, Dar es Salaam, 308 Tanzania, 487 125–142 Customs regulations, 27–28 Drugstores, Dar es Salaam, Central Island National Park 308 (Kenya), 240–241 Central Market (Arusha), 387 Dala-dalas, 33 Central Rent-a-Car, 32 Dar es Salaam, 305 EastAfrican, The 78 Chagga Tours, 49, 460–461 Darajani Market (Stone East African Treasures, 149 Chala, Lake (Tanzania), 462 Town), 345–346 Eco Directory, 45 Cheetahs, 4, 430, 493 Dar es Salaam (Tanzania), Economics of2 dive center Cheli & Peacock, 54 299–326 (Mikindani), 301 Chimpanzees, 5, 480, 498 accommodations, 309–318 Economy class syndrome, 38 Chogoria (Kenya), 128 average monthly high/low Eco-Resorts, 51 Chole Island (Tanzania), 378 temperatures and rainfall Ecotourism, 44–45 accommodations, 380–381 in, 25 Ecotourism Australia, 45 Cholera, 28, 38 brief description of, 63 Ecotourism Society of Chumbe Island (Zanzibar), exploring, 320–324 Kenya, 45 360 getting around, 306 Eid al Fitr (Kenya), 484–485 Chyulu Hills, 111–114 layout of, 304–305 Eland, 500 Cin Cin (Nairobi), 101 nightlife, 325–326 Electricity Classic Furniture (Stone police, 309 Kenya, 484 Town), 347 post office, 309 Tanzania, 487 Classic Tours and Safaris, 450 restaurants, 318–320 in tented camps, 21 Climbing restrooms, 309 Elephants, 503 Kilimanjaro, 66, 452–460 safety, 309 Kenya Mount Kenya, 127–129 shopping, 324–325 Amboseli National Clothing, on safaris, 20–21 travel agents and ground Park, 104 (Tanzania), operators, 307 Elephant Watch, 33, 304, 307, 332 traveling to, 302–304 2, 234–235 Coastal Kenya, 58. See also visitor information, 306 Mwaluganje Elephant ; The weather, 309 Sanctuary, 260–261 North Coast; The South David Sheldrick Elephant & Nairobi, 81–82, 84 Coast Rhino Orphanage red elephants (Tsavo Coco Beach (Dar es Salaam), (Nairobi), 81–82 National Park), 123 322 Deep vein thrombosis, 38 Save the Elephants, Coke’s , 499–500 Dentists, Dar es Salaam, 308 227, 234 Colobus monkeys, 205, 236, Desert rose (mdiga), 160 Elephant shrew, golden- 265, 317 Diani Beach (Kenya), 258, rumped, 274 Cost of safaris, 15 263–267 El Molo tribe (Kenya), 241, Courier services, Dar es Diani Bikes (Kenya), 259 243 Salaam, 308 Dida Galgalu Desert (Kenya), Embassies and consulates Courtesy Cabs (Nairobi), 80 238 Dar es Salaam, 308, 488 Credit cards, 37 Dietary red flags, 39 Nairobi, 79, 484 on safaris, 19 Dietary requirements, Emergencies Tanzania, 447 special, 17–18 Dar es Salaam, 308 Crime, 40 Dinesen, Isak (Karen Blixen), Nairobi, 79 Crocodile Point, 118 123, 190 Tanzania, 488 Museum (Nairobi), 84–85 Emirates, 78, 307

224_285589-bindex.indd4_285589-bindex.indd 519519 44/1/10/1/10 22:29:29 PMPM 520 Entry requirements, 27–28 Hell’s Gate National Park Environmentally Friendly Gabbra tribe (Kenya), (Kenya), 146, 148 Hotels, 45 242–243 Hemingway, Ernest, 190, Equatorial Fruit Parlour Galana River (Kenya), 118 272, 454 (Mombasa), 253 Gallery Baraka (Lamu), 298 Hepatitis A and B, 28 Escorted safaris, 51–52 Gallery Tours & Safari (Stone Heritage Hotels, 43, 55 Ethnic conflicts, 41 Town), 342 Hertz, 32, 34 Exchange Bar (Nairobi), 101 Gallman, Kuki, 219 High-altitude hazards, 39 Extreme weather exposure, Gametrackers (Kenya), 244 Highway banditry, 41 39–40 Gays and lesbians, 41–42 Hippo Point (near Lake Gede Ruins (Kenya), 275–276 Naivasha), 149 The Ghost and the Darkness (hippos), (film), 120–121 airmont, 56 504–505 F Gipsy Bar (Nairobi), 101 Families with children, 42–43 Lake Baringo (Kenya), 158 Centre (Nairobi), The far north (Kenya), the Serengeti, 423 83–84 237–245 Hirola antelopes, 119 Glen Edmunds Performance The Fazendin Portfolio, 55 HIV/AIDS, 38 Driving School (Nairobi), 32 Female circumcision, Holidays Gnu (), 5, 503 226, 231 Kenya, 484 Masai Mara, 171–173 Ferries, Stone Town, 341 Tanzania, 488 the Serengeti, 423–424 Fever trees, 401 Holy Ghost Church “God’s Corner” (Nairobi), 81 Fishing (Bagamoyo), 327 Golden jackal, 493 Kenya Hoopoe Adventure Tours, Golden-rumped elephant Lake Victoria, 199 49–50, 461 shrew, 274, 276 Malindi-Watamu coast, Horseback in Kenya, 208 Gombe National Park 275 Horse-riding safaris, Kenya, (Gombe Stream; Tanzania), the South Coast, 259 208, 209 480–482 Tanzania, 378 Borana, 215 Goodall, Jane, 480 Fish market (Dar es Salaam), Chyulu Hills, 114 Governors, 55–56 320 Masai Mara, 188 Governors’ Balloon Safaris Flamingoes Hospitals (Kenya), 183 Kenya, 156 Dar es Salaam, 308 Grant’s , 502 Bogoria, 160 Nairobi, 79 Grave Island (Zanzibar), 360 Lake Nakuru, 153 Tanzania, 488 Greater kudu antelopes, 160, Lake Natron (Tanzania), Hot-air ballooning 162, 464, 473, 475, 477, 420–422 Masai Mara (Kenya), 10 500 Flea market, Dar es Salaam, safaris, Masai Mara (Kenya), The Green Directory, 45 324–325 183 Green Foot Print Adventure, , 34 Hotels, 54 406 Flightseeing, Kenya, Mount House of Wonders (Stone Green Hills of Africa Kenya, 131 Town), 343–344 (Hemingway), 190 , 31, 71, 78 Hunting, Kenya’s ban on, 238 Greenhotels, 45 Lamu, 283 Hyenas, 496 Green Pages, 45 Mombasa, 250, 252 Grumeti Private Reserve Flying Doctors Society of (Tanzania), 7 Africa, 40, 79, 386 Dreamed of Africa Gusii (Kisii) tribe, 200 I Forestry Department (Gallman), 219 (Kenya), 203 Il Chamus (Njemps tribe), Forodhani Gardens (Stone 161 Town), 343 Hadzabe tribe, 415 Immunizations, 28 (Mombasa), 250, Hair dryers, 18–19 Shuttles, 29 252, 253 Hamamni Persian Baths Indigo Aviation (Tanzania), 4WD-driving, 32 (Stone Town), 347 304, 307 Francombe, Julia, 231 Hammerkop Roost (Kenya), Inside Nairobi, 77 Frommers.com, 46 163 Insider’s Africa, 48 Fuller, Lee, 51 Health concerns, 37–41 Insurance, Kenya, 485 Fungu Island (Tanzania), 330 jet lag, 30 InTanzania, 48–49 Funzi Keys (Kenya), 258 medical requirements for International Camel Derby Fuskai (Nairobi), 98 entry, 28–29 (Maralal), 27

224_285589-bindex.indd4_285589-bindex.indd 520520 44/1/10/1/10 22:30:30 PMPM Internet access, 19, 53 Kasa Divers (Tanzania), traveling to, 445–447 521 Nairobi, 80 300, 333 when to go, 447 IntoAfrica, 48, 128 Kilwa (Tanzania), 469–473 Ireland (Tanzania), 68–69, 481 Kingfisher (Malindi), 275 consulate (Nairobi), 79 Kazuri Bead Factory Kipungani (Kenya), 286, visas, 487 (Nairobi), 98 293–294 Irungu, Joseph, 76 KCB ATM (Lamu), 284 Kisere Forest Reserve Isimila Stone Age Site (Ruaha Kearsley Travel & Tours (Dar (Kenya), 205 National Park), 476 es Salaam), 307 Kisii (Gusii) tribe, 200 Isiolo (Kenya), 239 Kenatco Taxis (Kenya), 76, 80 Kisite Mpunguti Marine Island Express (Stone Town), Kenatco Taxis (Mombasa), National Park (Kenya), 343 251 258–260, 270 Itineraries, suggested Kenya, Mount, 126–132 Kisumu. See Victoria, Lake Kenya, 60–63 , 31 Kitengela Glass (Nairobi), 98 Tanzania, 64–69 Mombasa, 250, 252 Kitesurfing Nairobi, 78 Malindi-Watamu coast Tanzania, 307 (Kenya), 274–275, 280 Jane Goodall Institute, 136 Arusha, 385 Tanzania, 300 Jeevanjee Gardens (Nairobi), Kenyan coast, 246–298. See Kitesurf Kenya (near 81 also Mombasa; the South Malindi), 275 Jet lag, 30 Coast Kivukoni Front (Dar es Jipe, Lake (Tanzania), 462 Kenyatta International Con- Salaam), 321 Jo Anderson Safaris, 49, 461 ference Centre (Nairobi), 81 (Kenya), 282, 286, International Kenya Voluntary & Commu- 295–296 Airport (Nairobi), 71 nity Development Klein’s (Tanzania), 7 Jozani Forest (Zanzibar), Project, 51 KLM, 78, 307 358–359 Kenya Wildlife Service, 129, Kuringe Waterfall (Tanzania), Juani Island, 378 140, 154, 156, 203, 487 462 Julius Nyerere International Ker & Downey, 51 Kwitutu, Mount (Kenya), 198 Airport (Dar es Salaam), KG Mountain Expeditions, 302–304 128 Jumaa Mosque (Shela), 286 Kibera (Nairobi), 82–83 Laikipiac (Nanyuki), (near Kidnappings, 41 average monthly high/low Mombasa), 254 Kigamboni Ferry (Dar es temperatures and rainfall Junior, Peter, 328 Salaam), 321 in, 25 Just Rent A Car (Dar es Kigoma (Tanzania), 480 Laikipia Plateau (Kenya), Salaam), 308 Kiko Romeo (Nairobi), 98 58, 61, 206, 210–225 Kilasia Waterfall (Tanzania), best private concessions 462 in, 6 Kakamega Forest (Kenya), Kilimanjaro Air Safaris getting around, 211 165, 168, 202–205 (Tanzania), 34 orientation, 210–211 Kalabash (Nairobi), 98 Kilimanjaro International park fees, 211 Kalacha (Kenya), 242 Airport (near Arusha), 385 traveling to, 211 Kalenga (Tanzania), 476 Kilimanjaro National Park visitor information, 211 Kamara II (charter boat), 259 Headquarters (Tanzania), where to stay, 212–225 Kampi ya Samaki (Kenya), 447 Laikipia Wildlife Forum, 211 162 Kilimanjaro National Park Lake Bogoria National Kaole Ruins (Bagamoyo), 328 (Tanzania), 6 Reserve, 160 Karen Blixen Museum (Nai- Kilimanjaro (Tanzania), Lake Manyara National Park robi), 84–85 442–462 (Tanzania), 66, 404–410 Karen Bureau de Change climbing, 66, 452–460 Lake Nakuru National Park (Nairobi), 79 cost of climbing, 459–460 (Kenya), 60, 154–158 Karen Connection Forex excursions in the foothills, Lamu Archipelago (Kenya), (Nairobi), 79 462 62, 248–249, 282–298. See Karen Hospital (Nairobi), 79 Internet access, 447 also specific islands Kariakoo Market (Dar es ping guides and porters, accommodations, 287–296 Salaam), 321 460 restaurants, 296–297 Karisia Walking Safaris recommended operators, shopping, 297–298 (Kenya), 208 460–461

224_285589-bindex.indd4_285589-bindex.indd 521521 44/1/10/1/10 22:30:30 PMPM 522 Lamu Cultural Festival Machame Route (Kiliman- Marula Studios, the Eco Hub (Kenya), 284 jaro), 454, 455, 457–458, (Nairobi), 99 (Kenya), 285–286 460 Masai Mara Game Reserve (Kenya), 62 Mafia Island (Tanzania), (Kenya), 58, 60, 165–194 getting around, 283–284 374–381 getting around, 171 sights and attractions, accommodations, 379–380 orientation, 170–171 284–287 airport, 10–11 park fees, 172 traveling to, 283 exploring the area, traveling to, 171 visitor information, 284 376–378 visitor information, 171 Lamu Museum (Kenya), 285 getting around, 376 when to go, 171 Lamu Town (Kenya), 12 traveling to, 375–376 where to stay, 173–189, accommodations, 287–290 when to go, 376 192–194 restaurants, 296 Mafia Marine Park central Mara, 187–193 Language, Kenya, 485 (Tanzania), 6 inside or outside the Leakey, Louis, 412–413 MagicGrace (Lamu town), National Reserve, Leakey, Mary, 194, 383, 297–298 177 412–413 MagikGrace (Nairobi), 98–99 northern Mara, Leakey, Meave, 240 Mahale Mountains National 175–186 Leakey, Richard, 240 Park (Tanzania), 69, 480 southern Mara, Legal aid Mail 193–194 Kenya, 485 Kenya, 485 Mashika, Doreen, 347 Tanzania, 488 Tanzania, 488 Matatus, 32, 33 Lenga Juu, 78 Makutano Art & Craft Fair Matbronze Art Gallery & , 494 (Dar es Salaam), 324 Foundry (Nairobi), 99 Leopard Tours, 47 Malaria, 28, 37–38 Matembezi Safaris, 48 Level 8 (Dar es Salaam), 326 Malindi & Watamu Marine Mathews Mountain Range Leviathan, 111, 113 National Parks (Kenya), (Kenya), 236–237 Lewa Marathon, 26 273–274 Maulidi Festival (Lamu), 26 Lewa Wilderness, 4–5 Malindi (Kenya), 246, 248, Maulidi (Lamu), 284 Lewa Wildlife Conservancy 271–281 Mawazo Contemporary Art (Kenya), 50, 212, 217 accommodations, 278–280 Centre (Dar es Salaam), 324 Ferry (Mombasa), 251 outdoor activities, 274–275 Mawazo (Dar es Salaam), 321 Lilanga, George, 322 restaurants, 281 Maziwe Island Marine , 4, 494 sights and attractions, Reserve (Tanzania), 330 Kenya 273–276 Mbita (Kenya), 198 Amboseli National traveling to, 272–273 Mdiga (desert rose), 160 Park, 106–107 Malindi Sea Fishing Club Measles-mumps-rubella Masai Mara, 172 (Kenya), 275 vaccines, 28 Tsavo East, 120–121 Mama Tembo Tours, 52 Medical requirements for the Serengeti (Tanzania), Manda (Kenya) entry, 28–29 424, 429, 436 accommodations, 292–293 Memoirs of an Arabian Prin- Livasia, Moses, 204 restaurant, 297 cess (Princess Salme), 340 Lodges. See Accommodations Manda Toto (Kenya), 286 Menengai Crater, 154 Loiyangalani, 243 The Maneaters of Tsavo Meningitis, 28 Longonot, Mount, 146 (Patterson), 120–121 Mercury Lounge (Nairobi), Lucky Rent-A-Car (Dar es Mangapwani Slave Cave 101 Salaam), 308 (Zanzibar), 356 Meru National Park (Kenya), Lugard Falls, 118 Maralal (Kenya), 243–244 5, 125, 138–142 , 202 Marangu Hotel (Tanzania), Mfangano (Kenya), 197–198 , 165, 194, 196, 49, 461 Micato Safaris, 47 200 Marangu Route (Kilimanjaro), Mida Creek (Kenya), 274 454–457, 460 Mikindani (Tanzania), 301 Marangu (Tanzania), Maasai giraffe, 500–501 444–452 (Tanzania), 473–475 Maasai Market (Nairobi), 98 Mariam’s Shop (Lamu), 298 Mnemba Atoll (Zanzibar), (Kenya), 166, Marimbani sand bank (Mafia 357 168–169, 190–191 Island), 377 Mnemba Island (Zanzibar), cattle of, 181 Marsabit (Kenya), 241–242 363 language of, 174 Marsabit National Reserve Mobile camps, 55 visiting villages of, 178 (Kenya), 242

224_285589-bindex.indd4_285589-bindex.indd 522522 44/1/10/1/10 22:30:30 PMPM Mobile phones Mwaluganje Elephant Sanc- Nanyuki, average monthly 523 Dar es Salaam, 309 tuary (Kenya), 260–261 high/low temperatures and Nairobi (Kenya), 80 Mwenge Craft Village (Dar es rainfall in, 25 Mobile safaris, 50 Salaam), 323, 325 Naro Moru (Kenya), 128 Mombasa Air Safari, 31, 250, My Eye (Lamu), 298 National History Museum 252, 259 Mzima Springs, 115, 122 (Arusha), 387 Amboseli, 104 National parks, best, 5–6 Mombasa Central Police Natron, Lake, 144 Station (Kenya), 252 Nairobi Hospital (Kenya), Natron, Lake (Tanzania), Mombasa (Kenya), 246, The, 79 420–421 249–258 Nairobi (Kenya), 70–101 Nature Discovery, 49, 461 accommodations, 254–256 accommodations, 87–92 Newspapers and magazines ambulances and hospitals, average monthly high/low Kenya, 485 252 temperatures and rainfall Tanzania, 488 area code, 252 in, 25 New Zealand average monthly high/low brief description of, 57–58 customs regulations, 28 temperatures and rainfall embassies and visas, 486 in, 25 consulates, 79 Ngomongo Cultural Village emergencies, 252 emergencies, 79 (near Mombasa), 254 getting around, 251 getting around, 76 Ngong Hills Racecourse history of, 249 hospitals, 79 (Nairobi), 81 restaurants, 256–258 Internet access, 80 Ngorongoro Conservation safety, 252 laws banning “unaccept- Area (Tanzania), 12, sights and attractions, able” behaviors, 77 410–422 252–254 layout of, 76–77 Ngorongoro Crater Conser- tour operators and guided mobile phones, 80 vation Area (Tanzania), 64 tours, 251 newspapers and Ngorongoro Crater traveling to, 250–251 magazines, 80 (Tanzania), 11 visitor information, 251 nightlife, 100–101 Nile crocodiles, 172, 240, weather, 252 police, 80 494–495 Money and costs, 35–37 post office, 80 Nile perch, 194, 199 Monkeys and primates, restaurants, 92–96 Njemps tribe (Il Chamus), 497–499 restrooms, 80 161 Kenya, Kakamega Forest, safety concerns, 74–75 Njoro River (Kenya), 154 204–205 shopping, 96–100 Nomad Safaris, 47–48, 55 Sykes’ monkeys, 132, 151, sights and attractions, Lake Manyara National 276, 358 80–86 Park (Tanzania), 407 vervet monkeys, 499 suggested itineraries, the Serengeti (Tanzania), Moshi (Tanzania), 444–452 60–61 430 Mosquitoes, 16–17 taxis, 80 The Norfolk (Nairobi), 101 The Mountain Club of Kenya, tour operators and guided The North Coast (Kenya), 126 tours, 77–78 271–282 Mountain Rock Lodge traveling to, 71, 74–76 getting around, 273 (Kenya), 128 visitor information, 77 sights and attractions, Mountain Rock Safaris & weather, 80 273–276 Camps, 128 Nairobi National Museum traveling to, 272–273 Mount Longonot National (Kenya), 85 visitor information, 273 Park, 148 Nairobi National Park where to stay and dine, The Msasani Peninsula (Kenya), 85 276–282 (Tanzania) Naivasha, Lake (Kenya), The North Coast (Tanzania), accommodations, 309–313 144–153 326–335 restaurants, 318–319 Naivasha (Kenya), 144–153 The Northern Circuit Murogo Reef (Zanzibar), 357 Nakuru, Lake (Kenya), (Tanzania), 382–441 Museum and House of Cul- 153–158 Northern Frontier District ture (Dar es Salaam), 324 Nakuru (Kenya), 153 (Kenya), 210–225 Music average monthly high/low average monthly high/low taarab orchestras temperatures and rainfall temperatures and rainfall (Zanzibar), 10 in, 25 in, 25 Zanzibar, 351 Northern Frontier Ventures (Kenya), 208

224_285589-bindex.indd4_285589-bindex.indd 523523 44/1/10/1/10 22:30:30 PMPM 524 Nude and topless sunbathing Pangolin, 495 Police, Tanzania, 309, 488 the South Coast (Kenya), Pate (Kenya), 286 Polio, 28 260 Patterson, John, 120 Political demonstrations, 41 Tanzania, 316 Pemba (Zanzibar), 67, Porcupine, 506 Nzenze (Moving Island; 372–373 Porini, 55 Kenya), 201 Penny Winter (Nairobi), 99 , 33, 307, 385 Peponi Hotel (Shela), 286 Premier Care (Dar es Pickpockets, 40 Salaam), 308 Obama, Barack, 198–199 Pika-pikas, 305 Premier Tours, 48 Offbeat Safaris (Kenya), 55, Pilli Pipa Dhow Safari Prescription drugs, 29 154, 188, 209 (Kenya), 270 Primates, 497–499 Ogres Beads Workshop Pilli Pipa (Shimoni), 260 Prison Island (Zanzibar), (Lamu), 298 Pinkopallino Design 359–360 The Old Boma Hotel (Nairobi), 99–100 Private concessions, best, (Mikindani), 301 Plague, 38 6–7 Old Customs House (Stone Planet Africa Safaris, 47 Prostitution, Nairobi, Town), 344 Planning your safari, 15–21 100–101 Old Fort (Stone Town), 343 best time to go, 16 Pungu (Kenya), 261 Ol Doinyo L’Engai (Tanzania), clothing tips, 20–21 420–421 costs, 15–16 Ol Donyo Wuas, 50 credit cards, 19 Qatar, 78 Old Town (Mombasa), 253 game packages, 16 Q Bar (Dar es Salaam), 326 Olive baboons, 498 hair dryers, 18–19 Ol Maisor Camels (Kenya), hiring a car and driving 209 oneself, 16 Rabies, 28, 38–39 Ol Malo, 50 Internet access and Rahimtulla Museum of Mod- Prehistoric Site cellphones, 19 ern Art (RaMoMa; Nairobi), (Kenya), 146 lodgings, 19–20 85 Ol Pejeta Conservancy, mosquitoes and other Rainfall, 24 135–138 insects, 16–17 Ranger Safaris, 43, 50 Ol Siruai Horseback Safaris packing tips, 21 Ras Nungwi (Zanzibar), 362 (Kenya), 209 special dietary require- Raz Kazone Peninsula One Ocean Zanzibar Dive ments, 17–18 (Tanzania), 332 Center, 357 tented camps, 19–20 Reef Leisure Watersports One Way (Dar es Salaam), tipping, 20 (Zanzibar), 357 324 Planning your trip to Kenya , 31, 34, 332 On-Time Cabs (Nairobi), 80 and Tanzania, 22–56 Relapsing fever, 38 Orchids, Kenya, 111, 205, 236 accommodations, 53–56 Safaris, 48 Origins Safaris (Kenya), calendar of events, 26–27 Rendille tribe (Kenya), 239, 48, 244–245 customs regulations, 241, 244 Oryx, 501 27–28 Responsible Travel, 45 Oserian Wildlife Sanctuary, entry requirements, 27–28 Restaurants. See also 149 health concerns, 37–41 Restaurants Index Out of Africa (Blixen), 84, 190 Internet access, 53 Rhinoceros (rhinos), 4–5, Outside In, 30 money and costs, 35–37 103, 504 O’Willies Irish Pub (Dar es safaris and tour operators, David Sheldrick Elephant & Salaam), 326 46–52 Rhino Orphanage Oysterbay Pharmacy (Dar es safety concerns, 40–41 (Nairobi), 81–82 Salaam), 308 special-interest trips, 48–50 the Serengeti, 425, 427 specialized travel Rhino Charge (Laikipia resources, 41–44 Plateau), 26 Packing tips, for safaris, 21 telephones and Riding Wild (Kenya), 209 Palace Museum (Stone cellphones, 52 Rift Valley fever, 38 Town), 344 Plumbing, in tented The Rift Valley (Kenya), Pandya Memorial Hospital camps, 20 143–164 (Mombasa), 252 Poacher’s Lookout (Kenya), brief description of, 58 Pangani (Tanzania), 329–334 122 touring, 144 accommodations near, 334 Poaching, 238 Rising Sun (Zanzibar), 357 Pange Island (Zanzibar), 357 Point Lenana (Kenya), 128 Riverside Shuttles, 29

224_285589-bindex.indd4_285589-bindex.indd 524524 44/1/10/1/10 22:30:30 PMPM Road travel. See also Car snake safaris (near traveling to, 426 525 travel Watamu), 275 visitor information, 426 Dar es Salaam (Tanzania), mobile, 50 when to go, 428–429 304 Safety concerns, 40–41 where to stay and dine, Kenya carjackings, 32 429–441 to Kenya, 29 wildlife, 17, 18 Serengeti Under Canvas Laikipia Plateau, 211 St. John Ambulance (Tanzania), 430 Masai Mara, 171 (Nairobi), 78 , 495–496 Mombasa, 251 St. Joseph’s Cathedral (Stone Shaba (Kenya), 225–237 Nairobi, 74–75 Town), 347 Shaba National Reserve Naivasha, 147 Salme, Princess, 340 (Kenya), 234–236 Tsavo National Park, Samburu (Kenya), 225–237 Shanga (Kenya), 286 116 Samburu National Reserve Shela (Kenya), 282, 286, 297 Roan antelopes, 199 (Kenya), 60, 232–234 accommodations, 290–292 Robert & William Carr- getting around, 228 Sheldrick, Daphne, 84 Hartley Safaris, 50, 209 orientation, 226 Shimba Hills National Robert Glen Gallery park fees, 228 Reserve (Kenya), 258, (Nairobi), 100 traveling to, 227–228 260–261 Robin Hurt Safaris (Kenya), visitor information, 227 Shira route (Kilimanjaro), 209 when to go, 228 458–459 Rock paintings, Mount where to stay, 228–229, SHOFCO (Shining Hope for Kwitutu, 198 232–234 Community; Nairobi), 83 Roving Rovers, 32 (Kenya), Showers, in tented camps, 20 Royal African Safaris, 51 226, 230–231 Sibiloi National Park (Kenya), Royal Coach, 35 Sarova, 55 240 Ruaha National Park (Tanza- Sausage trees, 401 Silversands Beach (Kenya), nia), 68, 475–478 Sauti za Busara, 26 279 Ruma National Park (Kenya), Savage Wilderness Safaris, Simba Safaris, 16, 48 199 50, 113 Simba Saloon (Nairobi), 101 Runway Lounge (Dar es cane rat, 506 Simply Books (Nairobi), 79 Salaam), 325 Savannah (Dar es Salaam), Single travelers, 43 Rusinga Island (Kenya), 198 307 Sirimon (Kenya), 128 Scandinavian Express, Fort (Shanga), 286–287 29, 33, 35 Slim Silver Smith (Lamu), 298 Schistosomiasis, 38 The Slipway (Dar es Salaam), (Tanzania), 330 Scorpions, 39 323, 324 Sabaki River (Kenya), 274 Scuba diving Small-spotted genet, 496 Sable antelope, 501–502 Kenya Smoking Safari accommodations, Malindi-Watamu coast, Kenya, 485–486 54–55 274 Tanzania, 488 Safari Airlink, Tanzania, the South Coast, Snails, Lake Victoria, 197 Tanga, 332 259–260 Snakes, 39 Safari Blue tours (Zanzibar), Tanzania, 300–301 Kenya, 205 356–357 Mafia Island, 376–377 Bio-Ken Laboratory SafariLink, Nairobi, 71, 78 Zanzibar, 357 and Snake Farm Safarilink, 31, 104, 116, 127, Sea Adventures, 259 (near Watamu), 275 147, 211, 252, 258, 283 Seasons, 24 Snorkeling Amboseli, 104 (Tanza- Kenya Safari Professionals, 245 nia), 67, 68, 463–469 Malindi-Watamu coast, Safaris, 46–52 Senior travel, 43 274 balloon, Masai Mara Serena, 55 the South Coast, (Kenya), 183 The Serengeti Cheetah Proj- 259–260 escorted, 51–52 ect, 430 safety concerns, 358 Kenya, 46–48 (Tan- Tanzania Lake Turkana and the zania), 6, 64, 66 Mafia Island, 376 far north, 237–244 The Serengeti (Tanzania), Zanzibar, 357–358 northern Kenya, 423–441 Soaring Eagles Tours, Travel 208–209 exploring, 426–429 & Taxi Co. (Nairobi), 80 getting around, 426 Sokoke Scops, 275

224_285589-bindex.indd4_285589-bindex.indd 525525 44/1/10/1/10 22:30:30 PMPM 526 Solio Game Reserve, 133–134 Swahili architecture (Lamu), Tick bite fever, 38 Sopa, 55 285 Tingatinga, Eduardo Saidi, South African Airways, Swahili House Museum 322 78, 307 (Lamu), 285 Tipping, 20 South Beach (Dar es Salaam), Swahili stone town (Dunda; Kenya, 486 300 Bagamoyo), 327 Tanzania, 489 accommodations, 316–318 Swala Gem Traders (Arusha), Tippu Tip’s House (Stone The South Coast (Kenya), 388 Town), 346 258–271 Sweet Eazy (Dar es Salaam), Tiwi Beach (Kenya), 261–262 accommodations, 261–269 326 Toilets Diani Beach, 263–267 Sweetwaters Chimpanzee Kenya, 486 Tiwi Beach, 261–262 Sanctuary (Ol Pejeta; Tanzania, 489 fishing, snorkeling and Kenya), 136 Tongoni Ruins (Tanzania), dive charters, 259 Sweetwaters Game Reserve 331 getting around, 259 (Ol Pejeta; Kenya), 135 Topan, Tharia, 348 restaurants, 270–271 Swiss Air, 78, 307 Topi, 502 traveling to, 258–259 Sykes’ monkeys, 132, 151, Toten (Tanzania), 332 visitor information, 259 276, 358 Tourism Concern, 45 The South Coast (Tanzania), Tour operators, 46–52. See 469–473 also Safaris The Southern Circuit Taarab music (Zanzibar), Kenya, 46–47 (Tanzania), 463–483 10, 351 Mombasa, 251 Southern Cross Safaris, Ruins (Lamu), 286 Nairobi, 77 42, 56, 251 Tana River Delta (Kenya), Tanzania, 47–48 Southern Kenya, 58, 102–124 281–282 Trade Routes (Arusha), 387 average monthly high/low Tanganyika, Lake (Tanzania), Train travel temperatures and rainfall 63–64 , 478–480 Kenya, 32–33 in, 25 Tanga (Tanzania), 332 Lake Victoria, 197 Special-interest trips, 48–50 accommodations, 334–335 Mombasa, 251 Spice Tour (Zanzibar), 359 Tanzania, 299–335 Nairobi, 76 Spiders, 39 Tanzania Tourism Board, 306 Tanzania, 34–35 The Spotted Sphynx Tanzania Volunteer Experi- Transportation (Adamson), 139 ence, 51 in Kenya, 30–31 Spring hare, 507 (Tan- in Tanzania, 33 Standard Chartered Bank zania), 6, 64, 397–404 Traveling (Dar es Salaam), 308 traveling to, 399–401 to Kenya, 29 Stone Town Cultural Centre, where to stay and dine, to Tanzania, 30 344 401–404 Travel insurance, Kenya, 485 Stone Town (Tanzania), 66 Taxes, Tanzania, 488 TravelMate (Dar es Salaam), Stone Town (Zanzibar), 12, Taxis 307 338–360 Kenya, 33 Tread Lightly, 45 accommodations, 348–354 Mombasa, 251 Treasures of Africa (Dar es excursions from, 356–360 Nairobi, 71, 80 Salaam), 325 festivals, 342 Tanzania, 35 Tribal conflicts, 41 getting around, 341–342 Dar es Salaam, 306 Trinity Medical Diagnostic history of, 338–340 Tazara, 34–35 Clinic (Arusha), 386 organized tours, 342–343 Teenagers, 42–43 Tropic Air (Kenya), 211, 212 restaurants, 354–356 Telephones, 52 Nairobi, 71, 78 shopping, 347 Ten Degrees South Lodge Samburu National Reserve, sights and attractions, (Mikindani), 301 228 343–347 Tented camps, 19–20, 55 Tropical illnesses, 37–39 special events, 342 argument for, 20–21 Tsavo East and West National traveling to, 340–341 best, 8–9 Parks, 61 when to go, 342 TerraPass, 45 Tsavo National Park (Kenya), Suna Tours (Stone Town), 343 Tetanus-diphtheria, 28 115–124 Sun exposure, 39–40 Text Book Centre (Nairobi), 79 , 398 Sunworld Safaris, 144, 154 Thomson, Joseph, 134 Tuk-tuks Sustainable tourism, 44–45 Thomson’s Falls, 132 Kenya, 33 Sustainable Travel Interna- Thomson’s gazelle, 502 Tanzania, 35 tional, 45

224_285589-bindex.indd4_285589-bindex.indd 526526 44/1/10/1/10 22:30:30 PMPM Turkana, Lake (Kenya), 144, Victoria, Lake, average Wildlife. See also Elephants 527 207, 237–245 monthly high/low temper- and elephant attractions; fly-in safaris, 237–238 atures and rainfall in, 25 And specific parks, pre- overland safaris, 238–244 Victoria, Lake (Kisumu; serves, sanctuaries, and Turkana Boy, 85, 240 Kenya), 63, 194–202, 438 species Turkish Airlines, 78 average monthly high/low guide to, 491–507 Turtles, Tanzania, 333 temperatures and rainfall health concerns, 39 Tusitiri Dhow (Lamu in, 25 Kenya archipelago), 291 day trips, 197 Kakamega Forest, Tusks Monument (Mombasa), getting around, 197 204–205 252 Masai Mara, 165 Lake Turkana area, Twaa people, 198 orientation, 195–196 240–241 Typhoid, 28 sights and attractions, Meru National Park, Typhus, 38 197–200 139, 140 TZ Kite Surfing (Dar es traveling to, 196–197 Nairobi National Park, Salaam), 300 where to stay, 200–202 85 Village Museum (Dar es Oserian Wildlife Salaam), 324 Sanctuary, 149 Udzungwa National Park Virgin Atlantic, 78 Ruma National Park, (Tanzania), 473–475 Visas, 27, 486 199 Ultimate Safaris Ltd., 48 Visitor information primates, 497–499 Uncharted Outposts, 15, 46, Kenya, 487 safety concerns, 17, 18 55, 113, 222 Nairobi, 77 the Serengeti (Tanzania), Unguja Coast (Zanzibar), Tanzania, 489 423–425 360–372 Volunteer and working trips, Wildlife Explorer, 48 United Kingdom 50–51 Wildlife Lodges, 55 customs regulations, 28 Volunteer Kenya, 51 Wilson Airport (Nairobi), 71 High Commission Volunteer travel, 45 Women travelers, 43 Dar es Salaam, 488 Woodley Weavers (Nairobi), Nairobi, 79, 484 100 visas, 486 Waco biplanes, flying (Lai- United States kipia Plateau, Kenya), 10 customs regulations, 28 Warthog, 505 Xcar Rent a Car (Dar es Embassy Wasamo clan, 201 Salaam), 308 Dar es Salaam, 488 Wasini Island Dhow Tours & Nairobi, 79, 484 Scuba Diving, 259 visas, 486 Wasini (Kenya), 258, 259 Yatima (Dar es Salaam), 324 Upendo (Stone Town), 347 Watamu (Kenya), 271–278 Yatta Plateau (Kenya), 116 Upinde Diving (Malindi), 274 outdoor activities, 274–275 Yellow fever, 28 Ushongo Beach (Tanzania), visitor information, 273 300 where to stay and dine, Ushongo (Tanzania), 276–278 ZanAir, 34, 307 329–334 Water, drinking, Kenya, 487 Zantas Air, 34 accommodations, 333–334 Western Corridor (the Zanzibar, 336–373 Usita wa Mui (Lamu), 285 Serengeti), 428 average monthly high/low Utamaduni Crafts Centre Western Kenya, brief temperatures and rainfall (Nairobi), 100 description of, 58 in, 25 Uyaphi.com, 46–47 Westland Sundries strategies for seeing the (Nairobi), 79 region, 337 Whale sharks suggested itineraries, Vaccinations, 28 Mafia Island, 5 66, 67 Kilimanjaro, 446 swimming with (Mafia Zanzibar Curios (Stone Varicella, 28 Island), 377, 378 Town), 347 Pillar Whalley, Frank, 78 Zanzibar International Film (Malindi), 273 Wild dogs, 497 Festival of the Dhow Coun- Vegetarians, 39 Wildebeest, 5, 503 tries (Stone Town), 26–27 Vervet monkeys, 499 Masai Mara, 171–173 Zanzibar Unique (Stone the Serengeti, 423–424 Town), 343 Wild Frontiers (Kenya), 209

224_285589-bindex.indd4_285589-bindex.indd 527527 44/1/10/1/10 22:30:30 PMPM 528 Zara Tours, 49, 451, 461 Driftwood Beach Club Kilaguni Serena Safari Lodge , 505 (Malindi), 278 (Tsavo West), 123–124 Zebu Shop (Nairobi), 100 Elephant Pepper Camp Kilili Baharini Resort & Spa Zen Garden (Nairobi), 101 (Masai Mara), 176–177 (Malindi), 278–279 Elephant Watch, 2, 234–235 Kinondo Kwetu (near Diani Elsa’s Kopje (Meru National Beach), 268–269 ACCOMMODATIONS— Park), 140, 141 Kipungani Explorer, 293–294 KENYA Equator House (Manda Kisimani House (Shela), 289 Island), 288 Kitich Camp (Mathews Moun- Acacia House (Masai Mara), Fadhili House (Nairobi), 91 tain Range), 236 175 Fairmont Mara Safari Club Kiwayu Safari Village Afrochic (Diani Beach), 263 (Masai Mara), 177–179 (Lamu), 14, 295 Alfijiri (Diani Beach), 267 Fairmont Mount Kenya Safari Kizingo (Manda), 294 Almanara (Diani Beach), 263 Club, 130 Kizingoni Beach (Lamu Amboseli Porini, 108 Fairview (Nairobi), 88–89 Island), 289 Amboseli Serena Safari Finch Hattons (Tsavo West), Koija Starbeds (Laikipia), 219 Lodge, 105–106 123 Lake Baringo Island Camp, The Ark (Aberdare National The Funzi Keys, 13, 267–268 162 Park), 134–135 Giraffe Manor (Nairobi), Lake Victoria Safari Village, Aruba Lodge (Tsavo East), 89, 90 200 118 Hemingways Resort La Marelle House (Manda Baitil Aman Guest House (Watamu), 276–277 Island), 288 (Shela), 290–291 Himaya House (Malindi), 279 Lamu Homes (Lamu Town), Baobabs of Kitangani Hippo Point House (near 288 (Kiwayu Island), 14, 294 Lake Naivasha), 149–150 Lamu House, 290 Bateleur Camp (Masai Mara), Hotel Boulevard (Nairobi), 88 Lamu’s Magical Villas (Lamu 8, 176 House of Waine (Nairobi), 90 Town), 288 Baytil Ajaib (Lamu Town), Il Moran (Masai Mara), 179 Laragai (Laikipia), 215–216 287 Il N’gwesi (Laikipia), 216 Larsens Tented Camp Beach House (Shela), Jacaranda Indian Ocean (Samburu), 233–234 288–289 Beach Club (Diani Beach), Lemarti’s Camp (Laikipia), Bembea House (Shela), 289 264 222 Blue Empire House (Manda Jannat House (Lamu Town), Leopard Beach Resort & Spa Island), 288 287, 290 (Diani Beach), 264–265 Borana-Cottage No. 8 Joy’s Camp (Shaba National Leopard Rock Lodge (Meru (Laikipia), 1 Reserve), 8, 234–236 National Park), 140 Borana (Laikipia), 214–216 Kajama Beach Bandas (near Lewa House (Laikipia), 217 Campi ya Kanzi, 7 Malindi), 280 Lewa Safari Camp (Laikipia), Campi ya Kanzi (Chyulu Kalacha Camp, 243 216–218 Hills), 112–113 Karen Blixen Camp (Masai Lewa Wilderness (Laikipia), Campi ya Tembo (Masai Mara), 179–180 218 Mara), 186 Kenya Comfort Hotel Suites in the Sun (Malindi), Castle Royal Hotel (Mom- (Nairobi), 89 279–280 basa), 254–255 Kerio View, 204 Little Governors’ Camp Che Shale (near Malindi), 280 Kiangazi House (Lake (Masai Mara), 182 Cottar’s 1920s Safari Camp Naivasha), 149 Little Naibor (Masai Mara), (Masai Mara), 8, 193–194 Kiboko (Laikipia), 219–220 189, 192 Deloraine House (Lake Kicheche Bush Camp (Masai Little Shompole, 147 Nakuru), 157 Mara), 187 Loisaba, 212, 218–220 Delta Dunes, 13 Kicheche Laikipia Camp (Ol Loisaba Lodge (Laikipia), 219 Delta Dunes (Tana River Pejeta), 136–137 Loldia House (Lake Delta), 281–282 Kicheche Mara Camp (Masai Naivasha), 150 Desert Rose (Mathews Mara), 180 Macushla House (Nairobi), Range), 242 Kichwa Tembo Masai Mara 89–91 Dhow House (Watamu), 277 Tented Camp, 181–182 The Majlis (Manda), 292–293 Diani Reef Beach Resort & Kifaru (Laikipia), 217 Malewa Ranch House (Lake Spa, 263–264 Kijani House Hotel (Shela), Naivasha), 152 Dodo Tower at Hippo Point 291–292 (Naivasha), 1, 149–150

224_285589-bindex.indd4_285589-bindex.indd 528528 44/1/10/1/10 22:30:30 PMPM Malu (Lake Naivasha), 151 Ol Tukai Lodge (Amboseli Severin Safari Camp (Tsavo 529 Manda Bay, 293 National Park), 107–108 West), 124 Manda Dream (Manda Peponi Hotel (Shela), 292 Shaanti Holistic Health Island), 288 Pinewood Village Beach Retreat (Diani Beach), 266 Mara Explorer (Masai Mara), Resort (Diani Beach), 265 Shela House Management, 187–188 Porini Rhino Camp (near Ol 288 Mara Intrepids (Masai Mara), Pejeta), 138 Shéshé Baharini Beach Hotel 188–189 Private Galdessa (Tsavo (Tiwi Beach), 262 Maralal Safari Lodge, 244 East), 118–120 Shéshé Baharini (Tiwi Beach), Marsabit Lodge, 242 private villas in Lamu, 14 261 Masai Mara Sopa Lodge, 187 Rekero (Masai Mara), Shompole, 3, 146–147 Maweni & Capricho Beach 9, 192–193 Sirikoi (Laikipia), 223 Cottages (Tiwi Beach), Richard’s Camp (Masai Mara), Sosian (Laikipia), 223–224 261–262 183–184 Star Beds (Laikipia), 219 Mfangano Island Camp, Roberts’ Camp (Lake Stargazing Camp (Laikipia), 200–201 Baringo), 163 222 Beach House, Rondo Retreat (Kakamega Sweetwaters Tented Camp 269 Forest), 205 (Ol Pejeta), 136 Mukima House (near Mount Royal Court Hotel Tamarind Village (Mombasa), Kenya), 131 (Mombasa), 255 256 Mukutan Retreat (Laikipia), Rusinga Island Lodge, Tassia, 3–4, 208 219 201–202 Tassia (Laikipia), 224–225 Mundui Estate (Lake Sabuk (Laikipia), 220–221 Tijara Beach (Pungu), 261 Naivasha), 152 Samatian Island, 163–164 Tortilis Camp (near Amboseli Munira Island Camp, Samburu Intrepids, 233 National Park), 109–110 295–296 Samburu National Reserve, Treetops (Aberdare National Naibor & Little Naibor (Masai 232–234 Park), 132, 134 Mara), 189 The Sanctuary at Ol Lentille Tribe (Nairobi), 91–92 Nairobi Serena, 87 (Laikipia), 2, 221–223 Turtle Bay (Watamu), 276 Naisha House (Lake Sanctuary Olonana (Masai Upperhill Country Lodge Naivasha), 156–157 Mara), 184 (Nairobi), 88 Ngare Serian (Masai Mara), Sand Island Beach Cottages Water Lovers (Diani Beach), 8–9, 182–183 (Tiwi Beach), 262 266–267 Ngong House (Nairobi), 91 The Sands at Nomad (Diani Windsor Golf and Country Ngorongoro Crater Lodge, 2 Beach), 265–266 Club (Nairobi), 89 Nomadic Camp (Laikipia), Sangare Ranch Tented Camp 222 (Solio Game Reserve), 134 The Norfolk (Nairobi), 87–88 Sarara Tented Camp ACCOMMODATIONS— Oasis Lodge (Loiyangalani), (Mathews Mountain TANZANIA 243 Range), 236–237 Africa House Hotel (Stone Ocean Sports (Watamu), Sarova Lion Hill Game Lodge Town), 349 277–278 (Lake Nakuru), 157–158 Alexander’s Hotel (Dar es Offbeat Meru (Meru National The Sarova Stanley Salaam), 310–312 Park), 141–142 (Nairobi), 88 Al Johari (Stone Town), 350 Ol Donyo Wuas, 7 Saruni Mara (Masai Mara), Amani Beach Resort (Dar es Ol Donyo Wuas (Chyulu Hills), 185 Salaam), 316 113–114 Saruni Samburu, 2–3, 232 Amara Selous, 466 Olerai House (Lake SaSaab, 3, 228–229 Anna of Zanzibar (near Stone Naivasha), 151 Satao Camp (Tsavo East), Town), 364–365 Olerai House (Rift Valley), 121–122 Arusha Coffee Lodge, 397 2, 151, 153 Satao Elerai (near Amboseli The Arusha Hotel, 390–391 Ol Kanjau (Amboseli National National Park), 109 Asilia Olakira/Suyan/Sayari Park), 108–109 Savannah (Watamu), 276 Camps (the Serengeti), Ol Malo House (Laikipia), 220 Scorpio Villas (Malindi), 280 430–431 Ol Malo Lodge (Laikipia), 220 Serena Beach Hotel & Spa Baraza (Zanzibar), 13, Ol Pejeta Bush Camp, 137 (Mombasa), 255–256 365–366 Ol Pejeta House, 137–138 Serena Mountain Lodge Beho Beho Camp (Selous Ol Seki Mara Camp (Masai (near Mount Kenya), Game Reserve), 466 Mara), 192 131–132 Serian (Masai Mara), 185–186

224_285589-bindex.indd4_285589-bindex.indd 529529 44/1/10/1/10 22:30:30 PMPM 530 Beyt al Chai (Stone Town), Karatu Gibb’s Farm Lemala Ngorongoro Camp 350 (Ngorongoro Conservation (Ngorongoro Conservation Blue Bay Beach Resort Area), 417 Area), 418 (Zanzibar), 368 Kasa Beach Hideaway (Dar es L’Oasis (Arusha), 391 Bougainvillea Lodge Salaam), 317 Lobo Wildlife Lodge (the (Ngorongoro Conservation Katavi Wildlife Camp, 482 Serengeti), 436 Area), 416 Kempinski Bilila Lodge (the Mafia Island Lodge, 379 Breezes Beach Club & Spa Serengeti), 433 Manyara Bivouac (Lake Man- (Zanzibar), 366 Keys (Moshi), 450 yara National Park), 407 Chada Katavi Camp, 482 Kibo Hotel (Marangu), Manyara Tree Lodge (Lake Chole Mjini Lodge, 13, 448–449 Manyara National Park), 380–381 Kigoma Hilltop Hotel, 407 Clove House (Stone Town), 482–483 Mapenzi Beach Club 350 Kigongoni Lodge (near (Zanzibar), 368 Dhow Palace Hotel (Stone Arusha), 394 Marangu Hotel, 449 Town), 352 Kilemakyaro Mountain Matemwe Beach Bungalows Double Tree by Hilton Dar es Lodge (Moshi), 450–451 & Retreat (Zanzibar), 369 Salaam, 309–310 The Kilimanjaro Kempinski Matemwe Beach Guesthouse Echo Beach Hotel (Zanzibar), (Dar es Salaam), 313–314 (Zanzibar), 368 366 Kilimanjaro Mountain Resort, Mawe Ninga Camp (Taran- Emayani Beach Lodge 448 gire National Park), 402 (Ushongo), 333–334 Kilindi (Zanzibar), 371 Mbalageti Lodge (the The Fairmont (Zanzibar), Kilwa Dreams, 472 Serengeti), 440–441 368–369 Kilwa Ruins Lodge, 472 Mbuzi Mawe Tented Camp Faru Faru (the Serengeti), Kilwa Seaview Resort, 472 (the Serengeti), 434 441 Kimbilio (Kilwa), 472 Mbweni Ruins Hotel (near Fumba (Zanzibar), 363–364 Kinasi Lodge (Mafia Island), Stone Town), 354 Fundu Lagoon (Pemba 379 Mediterraneo (Dar es Island), 13 Kipepeo Beach Village (Dar Salaam), 312 Fundu Lagoon (Zanzibar), es Salaam), 317–318 Meru View Lodge, 448 373 Kirawira Luxury Tented Camp Migunga Tented Camp (Lake Gombe Forest Lodge, 482 (the Serengeti), 440 Manyara National Park), Greystoke Mahale, 482 Kirurumu Tented Lodge 408–409 Grumeti Serengeti Tented (Lake Manyara National Millennium Old Post Office Camp, 440 Park), 409 Hotel (Bagamoyo), 329 Hakuna Matata Beach Lodge Kisima Ngeda (), Mivumo River Lodge, 466 & Spa (near Stone Town), 415 Mkoma Bay, 334 353–354 Klein’s Camp (the Serengeti), Mkonge Hotel (Tanga), Harbour View Suites (Dar es 435–436 334–335 Salaam), 315 Kunduchi Beach Hotel & Mnemba Island Lodge Hatari Lodge (near Arusha), Resort (Dar es Salaam), 312 (Zanzibar), 14, 363 392 Kungwe Beach Lodge, 483 Game Lodge & Hotel Tilapia (Mwanza), 438 Kusini Tented Camp (the Sanctuary, 394–395 Ikoma Bush Camp (the Serengeti), 433 Mövenpick Royal Palm Hotel Serengeti), 437–440 Lake Manyara Hotel, 409 (Dar es Salaam), 314 Ilboru Safari Lodge (Arusha), Lake Manyara Serena Safari Mustapha’s Place (Zanzibar), 391 Lodge, 410 365 Impala Hotel (Moshi), 449, Lake Manyara Tree Lodge, Mwagusi Safari Camp (Ruaha 450 408 National Park), 477–478 Isamilo Lodge (Mwanza), Lake Manze Camp (Selous Natron Tented Camp, 422 438–439 Game Reserve), 468 Nduara Loliondo (the Jambi Ranger Post (Lake Lake Natron Camp, 421 Serengeti), 432 Manyara National Park), Langi Langi Beach Bunga- Ndutu Safari Lodge (the 405 lows (Zanzibar), 370 Serengeti), 432–433 Jongomero Tented Camp Lazy Lagoon (Bagamoyo), Neptune Pwani Beach Resort (Ruaha National Park), 328–329 (Zanzibar), 368 476–477 Lemala Camps (the New Africa Hotel (Dar es Karama Lodge (& Spa; near Serengeti), 431 Salaam), 314–315 Arusha), 394

224_285589-bindex.indd4_285589-bindex.indd 530530 44/1/10/1/10 22:30:30 PMPM Ngare Sero Mountain Lodge Sand Rivers (Selous Game Tulia Beach Lodge 531 (near Arusha), 395 Reserve), 468–469 (Ushongo), 334 Ngorongoro Crater Lodge, Sasakwa (the Serengeti), 441 Tunza Lodge (Mwanza), 439 416, 418–419 Sayari Camp (the Serengeti), 236 Hurumzi (Stone Town), Ngorongoro Farm House 9, 437 349 (Ngorongoro Conservation Sea Cliff Hotel (Dar es Udzungwa Mountain View Area), 417–418 Salaam), 310 Hotel, 474 Ngorongoro Serena Lodge, Selous Safari Camp, 469 Unguja (Zanzibar), 364 419 Serena Inn (Stone Town), Vuma Hills Tented Camp, 475 Ngorongoro Wildlife Lodge, 350–351 Wag Hill (Mwanza), 439 419–420 Serena Mountain Village White Sands (Dar es Salaam), Ngurdoto Lodge (near (near Arusha), 397 313 Arusha), 395–396 Serengeti Migration Camp, Zamani Kempinski The Old Boma (Kilwa), 473 437 (Zanzibar), 370 Old Mdonya River Camp Serengeti Safari Camps, Zanzibar Coffee House (Ruaha National Park), 478 431–432 (Stone Town), 353 Olduvai Camp (Ngorongoro Serengeti Sopa, 435 Zanzibar Palace (Stone Conservation Area), Serengeti Under Canvas, Town), 353 416–417 3, 432 Z Hotel (Zanzibar), 372 Oliver’s Camp (Tarangire Seronera Serena (Serengeti National Park), 9, 402–403 Serena; the Serengeti), 434 Onsea House (Arusha), Seronera Wildlife Lodge (the RESTAURANTS— 391–392 Serengeti), 434–435 KENYA Outpost Lodge (Arusha), 392 Seyyida Hotel & Spa (Stone Ali Barbour’s Cave Restau- Paje by Night, 365 Town), 351–352 rant (near Diani Beach), Palm Beach Hotel (Dar es Shooting Star (Zanzibar), 271 Salaam), 315–316 14, 369–370 Anghiti (Nairobi), 93 The Palms (Zanzibar), 367 Singita Sabora Plains (the Baby Marrow (Malindi), 281 The Plantation Lodge Serengeti), 441 Beach Bar (near Diani Beach), (Ngorongoro Conservation Singita’s Grumeti Camps, 3 271 Area), 418 Sopa (Ngorongoro Conserva- Blanco’s Lounge & Grill Pole Pole Resort (Mafia tion Area), 416 (Nairobi), 93–94 Island), 379–380 Souk at The Slipway (Dar es Bustani Café (Lamu Town), Pongwe Beach Hotel Salaam), 313 296 (Zanzibar), 14, 369 Southern Sun Dar es Salaam, Carnivore (Nairobi), 94 Protea Hotel Aishi Machame, 315 Driftwood Beach Club 451 Speke Bay Lodge (Mwanza), (Malindi), 281 Ras Kutani (Dar es Salaam), 439 Equatorial Fruit Parlour 317 Springlands Hotel (Moshi), (Mombasa), 257 Ras Mbisi (Mafia Island), 380 451 Fogo Gaúcho (Nairobi), 94 Ras Michamvi (Zanzibar), 367 Stanley’s Kopje (Mikumi), Haandi (Nairobi), 94–95 Ras Nungwi (Zanzibar), 474–475 I Love Pizza (Malindi), 281 371–372 Swahili House (Stone Town), Island Dishes (Mombasa), The Retreat (Dar es Salaam), 352 256 312–313 Swala Camp (Tarangire Jahazi (Mombasa), 256 Rivertrees Country Inn (near National Park), 403 jd’s (Mombasa), 256–257 Arusha), 396 Tanso Hotel (Dar es Salaam), Kenya Peponi’s (Shela), 297 Robinson’s Place (Zanzibar), 315 Kiwayu Safari Village, 296 365 Tarangire Safari Camp, 403 Le Rustique (Nairobi), 95 Ruaha River Lodge, 478 Tarangire Sopa Lodge, The Lord Erroll (Nairobi), Rubondo Island National 403–404 92–93 Park, 439 Tarangire Treetops, 404 The Majlis (Manda), 297 Rufiji River Camp (Selous Tembo (Stone Town), 352 Mediterraneo (Nairobi), 95 Game Reserve), 468 Ten Degrees South Misono (Mombasa), 257 Saadani Safari Lodge, 330 (Mikindani), 472 Misono (Nairobi), 93 Sable Mountain Lodge (Sel- Tent With A View (near Saa- Moonrise (Lamu Town), ous Game Reserve), 468 dani National Park), 331 296–297 Sabora Plains Tented Camp The Tides (Ushongo), 334 The Old Man and the Sea (Grumeti Private Reserve), 9 Travellers Lodge (Bagamoyo), (Malindi), 281 Sal Salinero (Moshi), 449 329

224_285589-bindex.indd4_285589-bindex.indd 531531 44/1/10/1/10 22:30:30 PMPM 532 Ónami (Nairobi), 95 Amore Mio (Stone Town), Mediterraneo (Dar es Sails (near Diani Beach), 271 354–355 Salaam), 319–320 Swahililand (Mombasa), 256 Beautiful China (Dar es Mercury’s (Stone Town), 354 Talisman (Nairobi), 96 Salaam), 319 Monsoon (Stone Town), 355 Tamarind & Tamarind Dhow Beyt al Chai (Stone Town), Onsea House (Arusha), 390 (Mombasa), 257–258 355 Oriental (Dar es Salaam), 320 Tangeri (Malindi), 281 Cabs Restaurant (Kizimkazi), Osaka (Dar es Salaam), 320 Tatu (Nairobi), 93 363 The Patisserie (Arusha), 390 Thai Chi (Nairobi), 92 Café Bamboo (Arusha), 390 Pizzeria D’Amore Restaurant Tides (near Diani Beach), Forodhani Gardens night & Bar (Tanga), 335 270–271 market (Stone Town), 355 Redds (Arusha), 390 Whispers Café (Lamu Town), IndoItaliano (Moshi), 449 Sawasdee (Dar es Salaam), 297 Jambo Coffee House 318 (Arusha), 390 Stiggy’s Thai Restaurant Karambezi Café (Dar es (Arusha), 390 RESTAURANTS— Salaam), 318 Tower Top Restaurant (Stone TANZANIA Kidude Café Restaurant Town), 356 (Stone Town), 355 Via Via (Arusha), 390 Addis in Dar (Dar es Salaam), Livingstone’s (Stone Town), Zanzibar Coffee House 318–319 354 (Stone Town), 354 Albero’s (Arusha), 389 Meat King (Arusha), 390 Zûane (Dar es Salaam), 318 The Alcove (Dar es Salaam), 319

224_285589-bindex.indd4_285589-bindex.indd 532532 44/1/10/1/10 22:30:30 PMPM