14_584405 bindex.qxd 6/27/05 11:04 PM Page 265

Index

See also Accommodations and Restaurant indexes, below.

GENERAL INDEX Airfares Art stores and galleries, getting the best, 34–35 204, 206 surfing for, 27 Ashanti Leather Factory, 212 A ARP, 22 Airline Ambassadors Asia de Cuba, 221 Abasto neighborhood, 52 International, 26, 38 Asociación de accommodations, 88 Airlines, 33–37 Cultura Inglesa (British restaurants, 126–128 Mar del Plata, 239 Arts Centre), 174, 216, 217 Abasto Plaza Hotel Montevideo, 257 Asociación Argentina de Shop, 214 Air Tickets Direct, 35 Polo, 175 Abasto Shopping Center, 200 A Line Subte, 132–133 Asociación Madres de Plaza ABC Tango Tours, 172, 234 Alliance for Retired de Mayo, 4, 143–145 Above and Beyond Tours, 23 Americans, 22 Asociación Mutual Israelita ACA (Automóvil Club Almacén de Argentina (AMIA), 25 Argentino), 55, 58 Generales, 213 Asunto Impreso, 206 Academia Nacional de Altel, 207 Atelier Estudio Casa de la Tango, 229 Alto Palermo Villa, 204 Access-Able Travel Source, 21 cinemas, 236 Atlas Lavalle, 236 Access America, 18 shopping, 200 ATMs (automated teller Accessible Journeys, 21 Alto Palermo Shopping machines), 14–15 Accommodations, 61–88. Center, 199 Montevideo, 258 See also Accommodations Alvear Palace Hotel, 191 Australian Customs Index Amantes del Tango, 173, 234 Service, 13 Abasto, 88 American Airlines, 33 Automóvil Club Argentino Barrio Norte, 83 American Express (ACA), 55, 58 best bets, 6–7 main office, 55–56 Automóvil Club de Uruguay Congreso, 83–86 traveler’s checks, 14, 15 (Montevideo), 258 Gualeguaychú, 249–250 American Foundation for the Autopista, 242 La Plata, 245 Blind (AFB), 22 Autoservicio Ki Tob, 212 Mar del Plata, 240–241 Amerika, 235 , walking Microcentro, 66–74 AMIA (Asociación Mutual tour, 191–194 Monserrat, 74–77 Israelita Argentina), 25 Avenida Córdoba, shopping Montevideo (Uruguay), Amsterdam (Mar del Plata), on, 199 260–262 242 , 163 Palermo, 87 Ana Díaz Historical , 3, 45, 139 price categories, 62 Homestead, 179 walking tour, 186–191 , 62–66 Analie Tours, 38 Avenida Julio A. Roca Recoleta, 79–82 Antiques, 203–204 (Diagonal Sur), 46 San Telmo, 77–79 Antiques market, Plaza Avenida 9 de Julio, 45–46, surfingCOPYRIGHTED for, 28 Dorrego, 140 MATERIAL163, 188 Tigre Delta, 254–255 Apostolic Nunciatore Avenida Sáenz Peña tips on, 39–40 (Anchorena Palace), 192 (Diagonal Norte), 3 Tribunales, 86–87 Architectural highlights, , 5 Addresses, finding, 46 169–170 shopping on, 199 Adia Turismo, 23–24 best walks, 3 Avis, 55 Aerolíneas , Area code, 56 Mar del Plata, 239 22, 33–34, 257 Montevideo, 258 Mar del Plata, 239 Argentine Open Polo AGUITBA (Asociación de Championships, 17–18, 175 B akú, 208 Guías de Turismo de Aristocracia, 208 Ballet Argentino, Julio ), 39 Arroba del Sur Bocca’s, 151, 217, 220 Air Canada, 33 (Montevideo), 258–259 14_584405 bindex.qxd 6/27/05 11:04 PM Page 266

266 INDEX

Banco Francés—Optician British Arts Centre Cameras, 207 Store, 179 (Asociación Argentina de , 140–141, 158 Bank of Boston, 180 Cultura Inglesa), 174, 216, , Bar El Federal, 225–226 217 175 Barrio Histórico (Colonia del British Clock Tower (Torre Canada Border Services Sacramento), 255, 256 Monumental), 5, 149–150, Agency, 13 Barrio Norte, 50 163, 183 Cancha de Golf de la Ciudad accommodations, 83 British Hospital de Buenos Aires, 175 restaurants, 112–113 (Montevideo), 258 Carlos Custom Shoes, 214 Bars, 222–227 Brown House (Colonia del Carrasco International with entertainment, Sacramento), 256 Airport (Montevideo), 257 224–225 Brujas, 214 Car rentals, 55 historical, 225–226 Bucket shops, 35 surfing for, 29 restaurant, 226 Buddha Ba Asian Art Gallery, Car travel, 37, 55 wine and champagne, 227 204 Casa de Brown (Colonia del Basílica Nuestra Señora del BueGay Travel, 24 Sacramento), 256 Pilar (Claustros del Pilar), Buenos Aires Boats, 171 Casa de Cultura/La Prensa 169 Buenos Aires City Tourism Building, 136, 188 Basílica y Convento de San Office, 9 Casa López, 212 Francisco (Saint Francis’s tours, 170–171 (Presidential Church and Convent), 169 Buenos Aires Design, 161 Palace), 4, 47, 136–137, B.A. Tango, 229, 230 Buenos Aires Design 139, 161 Beat House, 222 Recoleta, 201 Casino Buenos Aires, 237 Belgrano, 52–53 Buenos Aires Escuela de Castelar Hotel, 189 restaurants, 130–131 Español, 174 Catamaranes Interisleña Besos Brujos, 236 Buenos Aires Herald, 44, 216 (Tigre Delta), 252 Biblioteca Nacional (National Buenos Aires News, 221 Catamaranes Río Tur Library), 151–152 Buenos Aires Tango Off, (Tigre Delta), 252 BiddingForTravel, 27 173, 234 Catedral (Montevideo), 259 Biking, tours, 172 Buenos Aires Urban Biking, Catedral de la Inmaculada Bikini (Gualeguaychú), 251 172 Concepción (La Plata), 244 Bingo Lavalle, 237 Buquebús, 255, 257 Catedral San José Bio, 213 Business hours, 56 (Gualeguaychú), 249 Bird-watching, 3 Bus tours, 172 CBP (U.S. Customs & Border Blocks of Enlightenment Bus travel, 37, 54 Protection), 13 (Manzanas de las Luces), Colonia del Sacramento, C-Disueria, 213 137–138, 162 255 Cellphones, 31–33, 207–208 Boat tours, 171–172 Montevideo, 257 Cellular Telephone Tours, 171 Gualeguaychú, 249 Central Tango, 227 Tigre Delta, 254 Centro Automovilista del Boat trips and cruises, C abildo (Buenos Aires), Uruguay (Montevideo), 258 Montevideo, 257 133, 162 Centro Cultural de Borges, Boca, 49 Cabildo (Montevideo), 259 151, 217 restaurants, 129–130 Cabildo Patio Feria, 199 Centro Cultural Islámico Rey shopping, 199 Cacciola (Tigre Delta), 252 Fahd (King Fahd Islamic sights and attractions, Café Ideal, 229 Cultural Center), 168 139–142, 158–159 Café Misterio Boca Juniors Stadium and (Montevideo), 264 (Recoleta Cultural Center), Museum (Estadio de Boca Cafés notables, 225–226 161, 174, 217 Juniors), 141, 158 Café Tortoni, 133, 136, 227 Centro de Estudios Cultura y Bocca, Julio, 217, 220 Calin Lingerie, 208–209 Mujer (CECYM), 24–25 Boingo, 30 Calle Antigua, 203 Centro de Información Books, recommended, 40–41 Calle Báez, 5 Turística (Mar del Plata), Bookstores, 206–207 Calle Defensa, 49, 159 239 Borello Travel, 38 Calle 8 (La Plata), 244 Centro Nacional de la Borges, Jorge Luis, 40–41, Calle Florida, 5, 48, 163 Música, 139 171 shopping, 195, 198 Centro Naval, 169, 178 Botanical Gardens, 159–160, walking tour, 176–180 Centros de Información 164 Calle Lavalle, 163 Turística (Gualeguaychú), Brazilian Embassy, 192 Calle Perú, 163 247–248 British Airways, 33 Calu Travel, 24 Centros de Información Turística (La Plata), 244 14_584405 bindex.qxd 6/27/05 11:04 PM Page 267

GENERAL INDEX 267

Centros de Información Congreso building, Distal Libros, 206 Turística (Tigre Delta), 252 142–143, 191 Divino Beach (Mar del Plata), Chabeli, 211, 212 Connection kit, 31 242 Chacarita Cemetery, 152 Conocé la historia de Dollar, 55 Chandon Bar, 227 Buenos Aires desde tu Driving rules, 56 Changing of the guard, 138 celular (brochure), 171 Drugs and prescriptions, 20 Chicharrón Disco Bar, 221 Consolidators, 35 Drugstores, 56 Children, families with Constitución train station, Duhau Palace, 192 information and 239 resources, 26 Contact lenses, 208 sights and attractions, Contemporary Art Museum E asy, 201 5, 170 (La Plata), 245 Ecological Reserve, toys and children’s Contramano, 235 3, 48, 153, 162 items, 214 Correo Central Economy-class syndrome, Children’s Museum (Museo (Buenos Aires), 57 20, 36–37 de los Niños), 5, 154–155 Corrientes Theater District, El Angel (Gualeguaychú), 251 Chinatown, 4, 53 51–52 El Arranque, 230–231 grocery store, 210 Corsodromo El Beso Nightclub, 231 Chinese Lunar New Year, 17 (Gualeguaychú), 246, 248 El Boyero, 213–214 Chocolate (Mar del Plata), Corsos (Gualeguaychú), 246 El Cabildo (Buenos Aires), 242 Cosentino, 207 133, 162 Chueca, 235 Costanera (Gualeguaychú), El Cabildo (Montevideo), 259 Círculo Militar, 148, 182 249 El Caminito, 49 City Legislature Building Costera Metropolitana, 242 El Coleccionista, 214 (Legislatura de la Ciudad), COT, 255, 258 El Cybercafé (Montevideo), 137, 162 Cousiño Jewels, 211 258 City Park (Paseo del Bosque; Coyote (Mar del Plata), 242 El Cybercafé Softec La Plata), 244 Credit cards, 16 (Montevideo), 259 City Tourism Secretariat, Crime, 58 Elderhostel, 22 9, 42, 44 Montevideo, 259 ElderTreks, 22 City Zoo (La Plata), 244 Cromagnon, 222 Electricity, 56 Ciudad Abierta, 44, 216 Cuareim (Montevideo), 264 El Museo Histórico Nacional Clásica y Moderna, Cultural centers, 174 (National History 206, 224–225 Currency and currency Museum), 158 Classical music, 220 exchange, 14, 56 El Niño Bien, 2, 231 Claustros del Pilar (Basílica Montevideo, 258 El Nochero, 213 Nuestra Señora del Pilar), Uruguay, 256 El Querandí, 2, 227–228 169 Customs regulations, 12–14 El Tangauta, 44, 229, 230 Climate, 17 ELTExpress, 35 Clínica Suisso Argentino, El Viejo Almacén, 159, 228 21, 57 D ance, 217, 220 El Viejo Jack (Gualeguaychú), Club del Vino, 227 Dance clubs, 221–222 251 Club Sirio Libanés gay and lesbian, 235 Embassies, 57 (Gualeguaychú), 248 Dardo Rocha Cultural Center Emergencies, 57 Coanico Bar, 222–223 (La Plata), 245 Emerging Horizons, 22 Colegio Nacional de Buenos De Dios, 47, 58, 91 Emporio Armani, 209 Aires (National High Deep vein thrombosis, The Engineering School— School of Buenos Aires), 20, 36–37 The Eva Perón Foundation, 137–138, 162 De la Abundancia/Artesanos 140 Colonia del Sacramento (Montevideo), 260 Entry requirements, 12 (Uruguay), 255–257 Del Buen Ayre, 203 Ermenegildo Zegna, 209 Colón Theater, 147 De Los Padres Lake and Hills Escada, 209 Comunidad Homosexual de (Mar del Plata), 240 Escuela Argentina de Tango, Argentina (CHA), 23 Diagonal Norte (Avenida 151, 217 Confitería del Molino, Sáenz Peña), 3, 46 Escuela Presidente Roca, 169–170, 191 Diagonal Sur (Avenida 147–148, 185 Congreso area, 51, 139 Julio A. Roca), 46 Esquina , accommodations, 83–86 Díaz, Ana, Historical 2, 228–229 restaurants, 113–115 Homestead, 179 Estación Fluvial Tigre, 252 sights and attractions, Digital cameras, 31 Estación Terminal de Omnibus 142–146 Disabilities, travelers with, (Retiro Bus Station), 37 walking tour, 186–191 21–22 Estación Tigre, 252 14_584405 bindex.qxd 6/27/05 11:04 PM Page 268

268 INDEX

Estadio Boca Juniors, 175 Frommers.com, 29 Historic Neighborhood Estadio de Boca Juniors Fútbol, 175 (Colonia del Sacramento), (Boca Juniors Stadium and 255, 256 Museum), 141, 158 Holidays, 17 Ethnic neighborhoods, 4 G alería Alvear, 203 Home design stores, 210–211 Euro Tur, 39 Galería El Solar de French, Horse racing, 175 The Eva Perón Foundation, 203 Hospital Británico, 21 140, 160 Galería Güemes, 151, 180, Hospitals, 21 Evita: The Real Life of Eva 202 Hotel Chile, 189 Perón (Fraser and Galería Mitre, 179 Hotel Majestic, 189 Navarro), 41 Galería Promenade Alvear, Hotels.com, 28 Expedia, 27, 28, 39 202 Hotwire, 27–29 Eyeglasses, 208 Galería Ruth Benzacar, 204 House of the Viceroy ruins Ezeiza Ministro Pistarini Galerías Pacífico, 163, 178, (Colonia del Sacramento), (EZE), 33, 34 198, 201 256 cinemas, 236 HSBC Building, 180 Gales Casa Cambiaria H.Stern, 211–212 F amilies with children (Montevideo), 258 Hua Xia, 210 information and resources, Gallery Night, 203 26 Gardel, Carlos, Museo de sights and attractions, Casa Gardel, 155 I beria, 33 5, 170 Gath & Chaves, 179–180 IBL Spanish School, 174 toys and children’s items, Gay and lesbian travelers, ICan, 22 214 23–24 Iglesia Matriz (Colonia del Farmacia Suiza, 213 dance clubs, resto-bars, Sacramento), 256 Farmacity, 56 and tango salons, Iglesia Matriz (Montevideo), Fashion and apparel, 235–236 259 208–210 Gay.com Travel, 24 Iglesia San Nicolás de Bari, polo and gaucho clothing General José de San Martín 168 and accessories, 213–214 Monument, 182 Imagining Argentina tango clothes, shoes, and Giovanni’s Room, 24 (Thornton), 41 accessories, 214 Global Refund, 198 Imperio, 24 wool and sweaters, 215 Go! (Mar del Plata), 242 Inside Resto-Bar, 235 Federal Express, 198 Go Football Tours, 173 Insurance, 18–19 Federal Police Headquarters, The Golden Map, 47, 176 International Gay and 189 Golf, 175 Lesbian Travel Association Feria del Libro (Book Golf Day, 173 (IGLTA), 23 Festival), 17 GoToMyPC, 30 International Student Feria de Madres de Plaza de Gran Bar Danzón, 223 Identity Card (ISIC), 26 Mayo, 199 Grand Cru, 215 International Tango Feria de Plaza Francia Gricel, 229 Festival, 17 (Recoleta Fair), 4, 200 Grocery stores, 210, 212, 214 Internet access, 29–31, 57 Ferry boats (La Boca), Grupo de Teatro Catalinas Montevideo, 258 171–172 Sur, 220 InTouch USA, 32 FerryLíneas, 255 Gualeguaychú, 238, 246–251 INTRAV, 22 Festival Internacional de Gualeguaychú Casino, 251 IN VIP Visit BA, 173 Buenos Aires, 17 Gualeguaychú Terminal de IPass network, 30–31 Festivals and special events, Omnibus, 247 Isla Libertad (Gualeguaychú), 17–18 249 Fiesta de las Murgas, 17 Islas Malvinas/Falkland Fishing harbor (Mar del H arrods, 178 Islands War, British names Plata), 239 Haz de Luz, 210–211 after, 150 Flabella, 214 Health concerns, 19–21 Islas Malvinas–Falkland Flecha-Bus (Gualeguaychú), Health insurance, 18, 21 Islands War Memorial, 247 Heluini, 212 149, 163, 183 Flights.com, 35 Henry J. Beans, 223 The Israeli Embassy Florentina Muraña, 209 Hertz, 55 Memorial, 153 FlyCheap, 35 Hipódromo Argentino de Itinerarios Evocativos, 171 Flying Wheels Travel, 21 Palermo, 175 Itravelnet.com, 27 For Export (La Plata), 245 Hipódromo de San Isidro, I2roam, 31 Four Seasons Mansion, 194 175 French Embassy, 192–193 14_584405 bindex.qxd 6/27/05 11:04 PM Page 269

GENERAL INDEX 269

La Prensa Building, 188 MasterCard J ackie O., 223 La Rural, 165 ATM Locator, 32 Japanese Gardens and Las Cañitas, 51 traveler’s checks, 15 Cultural Center, 160, 165 sights and attractions, 161 Mayer & Mayer and Say Jardín Botánico (Botanical Lastminute.com, 27 Hueque Tourism Gardens), 159–160, 164 Lastminutetravel.com, 27 (Tigre Delta), 38–39, 254 Jesus Tower (La Plata), 244 Laundry, 57 MCI, 59 Jet lag, 36 Lavalle Monument, 185–186 MEDEX Assistance, 18 Jewelry, 211–212 La Ventana, 229 MedicAlert identification Jewish History Museum, La Viruta, 232 tag, 21 155–156, 184 Layout of Buenos Aires, 44 Medical insurance, 18–19, 21 Jewish travelers, 25–26 Leather goods, 5, 212–213 Medio y Medio, 225 Jockey Club Argentino, 175, Legislatura de la Ciudad Mercado del Puerto 193 (City Legislature Building), (Montevideo), 260 Jorge Gudiño Antigüedades, 137, 162 Metro (subte), 53–54 203–204 Les Amis, 39 Metropolitan Cathedral, Jorge Newbery Airport, 33 Librería de Las Madres— 138–139, 162 Jorge Oliva Antigüedades y Café Literario Osvaldo Microcentro, 48 Arte, 204 Bayer, 206 accommodations, 66–74 Journeywoman, 25 Librería Fausto, 206 restaurants, 100–106 Julio Bocca’s Ballet Librería Santa Fe, 206–207 shopping, 195, 198 Argentino, 151, 217, 220 Librería Sigal, 207 sights and attractions, Julio Chaile Arte, 204 Librerías Turísticas, 207 150–151, 162–163 Jumbo Palermo Commercial Libros Cuspide, 207 Midnight Mass on Christmas Center, 201 Líneas Delta (Tigre Delta), Eve, 18 252 Milongas (tango salons and Llegas a Buenos Aires, dance halls), 230–234 K amar Corso 44, 216 Ministerio de Turismo (Gualeguaychú), 248 Lo de Celia, 232–233 (Uruguay), 258 , 182 Los Santos Tours, 173 Money matters, 14–16 The Kilkenny, 223 Lost-luggage insurance, 19 Monserrat, 48 Kilometro Cero, 190 Lotti, Julieta, 234 accommodations, 74–77 King Fahd Islamic Cultural Louis Vuitton, 213 restaurants, 106 Center (Centro Cultural Luna Park, 220 sights and attractions, Islámico Rey Fahd), 168 139–142 Kosher grocers, 212 Montevideo (Uruguay), M acondo Bar, 223 257–264 Madero Tango, 229–230 accommodations, 260–262 L a Boca, 49 Madres de la , nightlife, 264 restaurants, 129–130 48, 190 orientation, 258 shopping, 199 Madres de Plaza de Mayo, restaurants, 263 sights and attractions, Asociación, 4, 143–145 shopping, 260 139–142, 158–159 Magical Moments, 215 sights and attractions, La Boca Fair, 199 Magic Center, 237 259–260 La Casa de Becho Magic Play, 237 traveling to, 257–258 (Montevideo), 264 Mail, 57–58 Monumental Lavalle, 236 La Cava de la Brigada, 215 Mail2web, 30 Monument to the Two La Coruña, 226 MALBA–Colección Congresses, 190 La Farmacia, 236 Constantini (Museo de Moreno Monument, 190 La Galería, 229 Arte Latinoamericano de Mosquitoes, 20 La Glorietta, 231 Buenos Aires), 3, 4, 158 MossRehab, 21–22 L’ago, 211 Mambo, 6, 25, 221 MoviCom–BellSouth, La Inmobiliaria, 190 Manuel Tienda León, 34 207–208 La Marshall, 236 Manzanas de las Luces Movie theaters, 236 La Martina Polo Ranch, 175 (Blocks of Enlightenment), Municipal Art Museum La Matera, 214 137–138, 162 (La Plata), 245 Lan and Kramer Bike Tours, Maps, 47, 58 Municipal Museum (Colonia 172 Mar del Plata, 238–242 del Sacramento), 256 Lana’s Argentina, 215 Mariachi (Montevideo), 264 Municipal Museum of Fine LanChile, 33 Markets, outdoor, 4, 199–200 Arts (Montevideo), 259 Language, 57 Marriott Plaza Hotel, 182 Museo Casa—Taller de Celia Language courses, 174 Martín García Island Chevalier, 141–142, 204 La Plata, 238, 242–246 (Tigre Delta), 252, 254 14_584405 bindex.qxd 6/27/05 11:04 PM Page 270

270 INDEX

Museo de Arte Contemporá- Opera Bay, 25, 221 neo (Montevideo), 259 N anaka Bar, 236 Opera Pampa, 165, 168 Museo de Arte Latinoameri- Nana Lou, 209 Orbitz, 27 cano de Buenos Aires Ñandubaysal beach Organic and vegetarian (MALBA–Colección (Gualeguaychú), 249 food, 213 Constantini), 3, 4, 158 National Gay Pride Organized tours, 170–173, Museo de Arte Oriental parade, 18 234 (Museum of Eastern Art), National High School of Out and About, 24 156 Buenos Aires (Colegio Outdoor markets, 199–200 Museo de Casa Gardel, 155 Nacional de Buenos Aires), Out Traveler, 24 Museo de Ciencias Naturales 137–138, 162 (La Plata), 244 National History Museum Museo de la Ciudad, 157 (El Museo Histórico P ackage tours, 37–39 Museo de la Ciudad Nacional), 158 Palacio, 235 Azotea de Lapalma National Library (Biblioteca , 5, 143, 146, (Gualeguaychú), 249 Nacional), 151–152 189–190 Museo de la Ciudad Casa National Museum of Palacio Campodónico Haedo (Gualeguaychú), 249 Decorative Arts (Museo (La Plata), 244 Museo de la Pasión Nacional de Arte Palacio de Gobierno, 136 Boquense, 141 Decorativo), 156 Palacio de la Justicia Museo de las Armas de la National Museum of Fine (Tribunales), 186 Nación, 153–154 Arts (Museo Nacional de Palacio Municipal (La Plata), Museo del Azulejo (Colonia Bellas Artes), 3, 4, 244 del Sacramento), 256 156–157 Palacio Paz, 182 Museo del Mar (Mar del National Museum of Natural Palacio Salvo (Montevideo), Plata), 240 History (Montevideo), 260 259 Museo de los Niños Naval Museum (Tigre Delta), Palacio San Martín, 182 (Children’s Museum), 5, 253 Palacio Taranco 154–155, 200 Navegando Buenos Aires, (Montevideo), 259 Museo del Patrimonio, 5, 157 171 Palacio Vera, 188 Museo Evita, 4, 156 Neighborhoods, 47–53 Palermo, 50 Museo Kibrick, 155 sights and attractions, accommodations, 87 Museo Municipal (Colonia 158–163 restaurants, 115–126 del Sacramento), 256 New York (Montevideo), 264 sights and attractions, Museo Municipal de Bellas New Zealand Customs, 14 159–161, 164–168 Artes “Juan Manuel Nightlife, 216–237 Palermo Chico, 50, 159 Blanes” (Montevideo), 259 bars, 222–227 Palermo Hollywood, 51, 160 Museo Nacional de Arte best street for, 5–6 Palermo Park, walks, 3 Decorativo (National dance clubs, 221–222 Palermo Soho, 51, 160 Museum of Decorative Gualeguaychú, 251 Palermo Viejo, 50–51, 160 Arts), 156 Mar del Plata, 242 Pallarols, 204 Museo Nacional de Bellas Montevideo, 264 Pappa Deus, 225 Artes (National Museum performing arts, 217–221 Parada Obligada, 235 of Fine Arts), 3, 4, 156–157 theaters, 220–221 Parque de la Costa Museo Nacional de Historia Nike Soho, 209 (Tigre Delta), 253 Natural (Montevideo), 260 Noche Buena, 18 Parque Landia, 237 Museo Participativo de Now, Voyager, 23 , 159 Ciencias, 5, 26, 155, 161, NX, 24 Paseo del Bosque 174 (City Park; La Plata), 244 Museo Portugués (Colonia Paseo del Puerto del Sacramento), 256 O belisco, 3, 163, 186 (Gualeguaychú), 249 Museum of Contemporary OCA (Buenos Aires), 58 Paseo Obelisco, 151, 202 Art (Montevideo), 259 Odysseus, 24 Paseo Victorica Museum of Eastern Art Oficina de Turismo (Colonia (Tigre Delta), 253 (Museo de Arte Oriental), del Sacramento), 256 Passports, 12 156 Old Neighborhood (Colonia , 198, 201 Museum of the Federal del Sacramento), 255, 256 Pekín Supermercado, 210 Administration of Public Olivia Cruises & Resorts, 23 Performing arts, 217–221 Revenue (Tax Museum), Once, 4, 52 Perón, Evita, 4, 160 5, 154 restaurants, 128 books about, 41 Museums, best, 4, 5 Open World, 22 Museo Evita, 4, 156 Music stores, 213 Opera, 220 Perón, Juan Domingo, 152 14_584405 bindex.qxd 6/27/05 11:04 PM Page 271

GENERAL INDEX 271

Pharmacy, 213 Pride Travel, 23 Plaza de Mayo Area, 96 Piazzolla Tango, 230 Prüne, 210 price categories, 91–92 Plastic-surgery tourism, 20 Puerto de Frutos (Tigre Puerto Madero, 96–100 Playa Grande (Mar del Plata), Delta), 253–254 Recoleta, 109–112 239 Puerto Madero, 48 San Telmo, 106–109 Plaza de Mayo, 139, 161–162 accommodations, 62–66 Tigre Delta, 255 Plaza de Mayo Area, 47 restaurants, 96–100 Resto-bars, gay and lesbian, restaurant, 96 sights and attractions, 162 235–236 , 49, 140, 159 Retiro, walking tour, 181–184 Plaza Dorrego Bar, 223–224 Retiro Bus Station (Estación Plaza Independencia Q antas Airlines, 33 Terminal de Omnibus), 37 (Montevideo), 259–260 QuickGuide Buenos Aires, Retiro Station, 183 Plaza Lavalle, walking tour, 216 Road-Post, 32–33 184–186 Quikbook.com, 28 Rodin’s The Thinker, 190 Plaza Mayor (Colonia del Roque Sáenz Peña Sacramento), 256 Monument, 180 Plaza Moreno (La Plata), 244 R adio Taxi Blue, 55 Rossi & Caruso, 213 Plaza San Martín, 162–163 Ralph Lauren Shop, 192 Ruinas Casa del Gobernador Plaza San Martín Rapsodia, 210 (Colonia del Sacramento), (Gualeguaychú), 248–249 Recoleta, 49–50, 198 256 Plaza San Martín area accommodations, 79–82 Ruinas Convento San sights and attractions, restaurants, 109–112 Francisco (Colonia del 148–150 sights and attractions, Sacramento), 256 walking tour, 181–184 146–147, 161 Plaza Serrano (Plazoleta Recoleta Cemetery, Jorge Cortazar), 152, 4, 146–147, 161 S afety, 58 160–161 Recoleta Cultural Center Montevideo, 259 Plaza Serrano Fair, 199–200 (Centro Cultural Recoleta), Saint Francis’s Church and Plaza Victoria Casino 161, 174, 217 Convent (Basílica y (Montevideo), 264 Recoleta Fair (Feria de Plaza Convento de San Plazoleta Carlos Pellegrini, Francia), 4, 200 Francisco), 169 152–153, 192 Remises Carrasco Salón Canning, 2–3, 233–234 Plazoleta de los Artesanos (Montevideo), 258 Salsón, 221 (Gualeguaychú), 249 Remises Horizonte Sánchez, Pedro, 234–235 Plazoleta Jorge Cortazar (La Plata), 244 San Francisco, Basílica y (Plaza Serrano), 152, Remiss Boulevard Convento de, 169 160–161 (Gualeguaychú), 248 San Francisco Convent ruins Plazoleta Siria, 153 Remiss Plaza (Colonia del Sacramento), Pluna, 257 (Gualeguaychú), 248 256 Police Headquarters República de Acá, 225 San Ignacio, 137, 162 (Gualeguaychú), 249 República de los Niños San Martín, General José de, Polo, 175 (La Plata), 244, 245 Monument, 182 Polo and gaucho clothing Restaurants, 89–131. San Nicolás de Bari, 168 and accessories, 213–214 See also Restaurant Index Santa Evita (Eloy Martínez), Polo Ralph Lauren, 209 Barrio Norte, 112–113 41 Port Market (Montevideo), with bars worth checking San Telmo, 49 260 out, 226 accommodations, 77–79 Porto Fem Talles Grandes, Belgrano, 130–131 restaurants, 106–109 209–210 best bets, 7–8 shopping, 199 Portuguese Museum Congreso, 113–115 sights and attractions, (Colonia del Sacramento), by cuisine, 92–95 139–142, 159 256 with entertainment, San Telmo Antiques Fair, Post offices 224–225 4, 199 Buenos Aires, 57 Gualeguaychú, 250–251 San Telmo Market, 140, 202 Montevideo, 259 La Boca, 129–130 Saracco, 208 Prescription medications, 21 La Plata, 245–246 SATH (Society for Accessible Presidential Museum, Mar del Plata, 241–242 Travel & Hospitality), 22 136–137, 161 Microcentro, 100–106 Seasons, 16–17 Presidential Palace Monserrat, 106 Senior travelers, 22–23 (Casa Rosada), 4, 47, Montevideo, 263 Señor Tango, 2, 230 136–137, 139, 161 Once and Abasto, 126–128 The Shamrock, 224 Priceline, 27–29 Palermo, 115–126 Shesh, 210 14_584405 bindex.qxd 6/27/05 11:04 PM Page 272

272 INDEX

Shipping objects home, 198 Solar del Este Teatro Solís (Montevideo), Shopping, 195–215 (Gualeguaychú), 248 260, 264 antiques, 203–204 Soler, Marie, 234 Telephone, 59–60 art stores and galleries, Soul Café and SuperSoul, 6, Templo Libertad, 155–156, 204, 206 224 184 best, 4–5 Southern Winds, 34 Terminal Omnibus Tres Cruces bookstores, 206–207 Spartacus International Gay (Montevideo), 257–258 cameras, 207 Guide, 24 Theaters, 220–221 cellphones, 207–208 Special events and festivals, The Thinker, 190 eyeglasses and contact 17–18 Thrifty (Buenos Aires), 55 lenses, 208 Spectator sports, 175 Thrifty (Montevideo), 258 fashion and apparel, Sports, 174–175 Ticketmaster, 216 208–210, 213–214 tours, 173 Tienda Puro Diseño grocery stores, 210 Sprint, 59 Argentino, 5, 161, 201, 211 home design stores, STA Travel, 26, 35 Tigre River Delta, 238, 210–211 The Story of the Night 251–255 hours, 198 (Toibin), 41 Tile Museum (Colonia del jewelry, 211–212 Student travelers, 26–27 Sacramento), 256 Kosher grocers, 212 Subway, A Line, 132–133 Time zone, 60 leather goods, 212–213 Sun exposure, 20 Tipping, 60 major shopping areas, 195, Sweaters, 215 T-Mobile Hotspot, 30 198–199 Tonel Privado, 215 music stores, 213 Torre de Jesús (La Plata), 244 organic and vegetarian T .A. Chevallier, 37 (British food, 213 Tango Clock Tower), 5, 149–150, outdoor markets, 199–200 best halls for, 2–3 163, 183 pharmacy, 213 International Tango Tourism kiosks, 44 shipping objects home, 198 Festival, 17 Tourist information, 9, 42 tango clothes, shoes, and lessons, 228–229 Gualeguaychú, 247–248 accessories, 214 milongas (tango salons Mar del Plata, 239 tango shows, 227–230 and dance halls), Montevideo, 258 taxes, 198 230–234 Tigre Delta, 252 toys and children’s items, gay and lesbian, 236 Tourist Ombudsman, 58 214 rules, 232–233 Tourist police, 57, 58 video stores, 214–215 shows, 227–230 Tours wedding shop, 215 best, 2 La Plata, 245 wine shops, 215 teachers, 234–235 self-guided and organized, wool and sweaters, 215 tours, 172, 234 170–173, 234 Shopping malls, 200–202 World Tango Festival, 17 Town Hall (Montevideo), 259 SideStep, 27 Tango Map, 230, 233 Toys and children’s items, Sights and attractions, Tango with Judy, 173, 234 214 132–174 Tanguera Tours, 25, 173, 234 Train travel architectural highlights, Taxes, 59, 198 to La Plata, 242 169–170 Taxi Premium, 55 to Mar del Plata, 239 Congreso area, 142–146 Taxis, 54–55 to Tigre Delta, 252 for kids, 170 Tax Museum (Museum of the Transportation, 53–55 Monserrat, San Telmo, and Federal Administration of Gualeguaychú, 248 La Boca, 139–142 Public Revenue), 5, 154 La Plata, 244 Recoleta, 146–147 Tazz, 224 Mar del Plata, 239 religious buildings, Teatro Avenida, 189 Montevideo, 258 168–169 , 220 Tigre Delta, 252–253 Silvia Freire, Espacio de Teatro Colón, Travel Assistance Arte y Cultura, 206, 217 147, 184–185, 220 International, 18–19 Singer, 37 , 220 TravelAxe, 28 Site59.com, 27 Teatro Municipal General Traveler’s checks, 15 SmarterTravel.com, 27 San Martín, 220 Travelex Insurance Smoking, 58–59 Teatro Nacional Cervantes, Services, 18 Sobremonte (Mar del Plata), 170, 184, 220 Travel Guard Alerts, 18 242 Teatro Nuevo Argentino Travel Guard International, 18 Soccer, 175 (La Plata), 244 Travel insurance, 18–19 Sociedad Rural Argentina, , 220 Travel Insured Inter- 178–179 Teatro Presidente Alvear, 221 national, 18 SODRE (Montevideo), 264 14_584405 bindex.qxd 6/27/05 11:04 PM Page 273

ACCOMMODATIONS INDEX 273

Travel Jewish, 26, 172 Plaza Lavalle and The Faena Hotel and Travel Line, 172 Tribunales area, 184–186 Universe, 6, 63 Travel Line (Tigre Delta), 254 Plaza San Martín and Four Seasons Hotel, 6, 7, 80 Travelocity, 27, 28 Retiro, 181–184 The Golden Tulip Savoy, 84 Travelweb, 28 Water, drinking, 60 Grand Boulevard Hotel, Tribunales, 52 The Water Palace, 157 75–76 accommodations, 86–87 Wayport, 30 Gran Hotel Vedra, 85 building (Palacio de la Websites, 9, 11 Hilton Buenos Aires, 7, 66 Justicia), 186 traveler’s toolbox, 32 Holiday Inn (Montevideo), sights and attractions, travel-planning and 262 147–148 booking, 27–29 Holiday Inn Express, 70 walking tour, 184–186 Wedding shop, 215 Hostel Carlos Gardel, 78 Trip-cancellation Wi-Fi, 30 Hostel Nómade, 78 insurance, 18 Wine and champagne bars, Hotel Alemán Tristán Narvaja 227 (Gualeguaychú), 250 (Montevideo), 260 Winery, 215 Hotel Castelar, 6, 76 Turisport Limitada Wine shops, 215 Hotel Colón, 70 (Montevideo), 258 Wine-tasting classes, 92 Hotel Crillon, 71 Women travelers, 24–25 Hotel de Los Dos World Tango Festival, 17 Congresos, 85 U fficio, 214 Hotel del Rey (La Plata), 245 UNESCO–Colonia Hotel Emperador, 81 headquarters, 256 Y ahoo! Mail, 30 Hotel Ibis, 6, 85–86 United Airlines, 33 Hotel La Misión (Colonia del UPS, 198 Sacramento), 257 USA Direct, 59 Z oo, City (La Plata), 244 Hotel Nogaró, 76 U.S. Customs & Border Zoo El Paraíso (Mar del Hotel Plaza Mayor (Colonia Protection (CBP), 13 Plata), 240 del Sacramento), 257 Utopia Bar, 224 Zoological Gardens (Buenos Hotel Reconquista Plaza, 71 Aires), 159, 164–165 Howard Johnson (Inn Corregidor), 245 V acunar, 20 Howard Johnson Florida Van Koning, 224 ACCOMMODATIONS Street, 71–72 Vegetarian food, 213 Abasto Plaza Hotel, 88 InterContinental Hotel Viajeras Travel, 24 Aguay Hotel (Gualeguaychú), Buenos Aires, 74–75 Video Express, 215 249–250 Lafayette Hotel, 72 Video stores, 214–215 Alvear Palace Hotel, 6, 79–80 Lina’s Tango Guesthouse, Villa Biarritz fair Amerian Buenos Aires Park 78–79 (Montevideo), 260 Hotel, 69 Loi Suites, 81–82 Village Recoleta, 236 Amerian Congreso, 83–84 Loi Suites Esmeralda, 72 Villa Ortiz Basualdo Aspen Towers, 69 Los Robles (Gualeguaychú), (Mar del Plata), 240 Auge Buenos Aires, 87 250 Visa Bauen Hotel, 83 Marriott Plaza Hotel, 6, 67 ATM Locator, 32 Bel Air Hotel, 82 Meliá Buenos Aires Boutique traveler’s checks, 15 Belmont House Hotel, 68–69 Visit Argentina Pass, 34 (Montevideo), 260 NH City Hotel, 75 Visitor information, 9, 42 Bonanza Deltaventura NH Florida, 72–73 Gualeguaychú, 247–248 (Tigre Delta), 254 Obelisco Center Suites Hotel Mar del Plata, 239 Caesar Park, 81 and Apartments, 73 Montevideo, 258 Casa Jardín, 87 Park Tower Buenos Aires Tigre Delta, 252 Casona La Ruchi (The Luxury Connection), Visitor Information Kiosks, (Tigre Delta), 254–255 67–68 170, 171 Claridge Hotel, 68 Radisson Montevideo Crowne Plaza Pan Victoria Plaza Hotel, Americano, 6, 66–67 260, 262 W aikiki (Mar del Plata), Days Inn Obelisco The Recoleta Hostel, 82 239 (Montevideo), 262 The Regente Palace Hotel, 73 Walking tours, 173, 176–194 Dazzler Hotel, 86 Sheraton Buenos Aires Hotel Avenida Alvear, 191–194 Dolmen Hotel, 69–70 and Convention Center, 69 Avenida de Mayo to El Lugar Gay, 77–78 Sheraton Montevideo, 262 Congreso, 186–191 Etoile Hotel, 82 Sofitel, 68 Calle Florida, 176–180 V&S Hostel, 73–74 14_584405 bindex.qxd 6/27/05 11:04 PM Page 274

274 INDEX

Viedma Hotel El Estanciero, 122 Los Chilenos, 103 (Gualeguaychú), 250 El Fogón (Montevideo), 263 Macondo Bar, 125 Yira Yira Hostel, 77 El Galope, 128 Malouva, 125 El Mirasol, 110 Mamá Jacinta, 128 El Moño Rojo (Tigre Delta), Maru Botana, 112 RESTAURANTS 255 Medio y Medio, 109 Amerian Mar del Plata El Obrero, 129–130 Mesón de la Plaza (Colonia Hotel, 240–241 El Viejo y el Mar del Sacramento), 257 Arcadia (Montevideo), 263 (Montevideo), 263 Morizono, 105–106 Asia de Cuba, 97 Empire, 102 Nanaka Bar, 109 Bahillo (Gualeguaychú), 250 Filo, 105 Novecento, 122 Barbería, 129 Galani, 111 Olsen, 7, 120–121, 226 Bar El Federal, 106–107 Garbis, 8, 122 Pampa, 125–126 B’art, 115 Gardel de Buenos Aires, Pappa Deus, 108 Bio, 124 126–127 Penal1, 122–123, 226 Broccolino, 101 Gran Victoria, 96 Petit Café, 106 Buddha BA, 130–131 Hook (La Plata), 245 Piegari, 8, 109–110 Cabaña Las Lilas, 7, 96 Il Gran Caffe, 105 Plaza Asturias, 7, 113–114 Café de la Ciudad, 101–102 Inside Resto-Bar, 113 Plaza Bar, 8, 223 Café de Madres de Plaza de Juana M, 8, 112 Plaza del Carmen, 114 Mayo, 114 Katrine, 96 Plaza Grill, 101, 182 Café Literario, 104 Kosher McDonald’s, 127–128 Puerto Cristal, 100 Café Retiro, 104, 183–184 La Americana, 114–115 Pulpería de los Faroles Café Tortoni, 7, 104–105, 188 La Biela, 7, 112 (Colonia del Sacramento), Café Victoria, 111 La Bisteca, 8, 97 257 Campo Bravo, 124 La Bourgogne, 8, 110 República de Acá, 123, 225 Casa Cruz, 115 La Brigada, 107 Restaurante y Bar Casa de , 109 La Cave, 110 Mediterráneo, 106 Catalinas, 100 La Chacra, 102–103 Restaurant Modelo (La Central, 118, 226 La Corte, 119 Plata), 245–246 Clark’s, 111–112 La Coruña, 107–108 Richmond Cafe, 103–104 Clásica y Moderna, 112–113 La Farmacia, 108 Río Alegre (Montevideo), 263 Club del Vino, 92, 118 La Marca (Mar del Plata), Sarkis, 111 Club Español, 106 241–242 Shefa Abasto, 128 Cluny, 118–119 La Moncloa, 113 Sheraton (Mar del Plata), 241 Coanico Bar, 125 La Perla, 129 Sorrento del Puerto, 97 Confitería del Botánico, 125 Las Brasas (Montevideo), 263 Sullivan’s Drink House, Confitería Exedra, 102 Las Nazarenas, 103 121, 226 Corsario, 129 La Sortija, 105 Sushi Club, 123 De Olivas i Lustres, 121–122 La Vieja Rotisería, 108 Tazz, 126 Desnivel, 107 Le Sud, 101 Te Mataré Ramírez, 121 Di Tulia (Gualeguaychú), Ligure, 103 Todos Contentos, 131 250–251 Lo De Carlitos Utopia Bar, 123–124 Don Emilio Parrilla (Gualeguaychú), 251 Viejo Agump, 126 (Tigre Delta), 255 Lo De Pueyrredón, 119–120 Villa Victoria (Mar del Plata), Don Galíndez, 105 Lola, 110 239–240 Dora, 7, 100–101 Lomo, 120 Yoko’s, 124