SOUTHEAST ASIA NOVEMBER 2019

Time travel in TIBET INSIDER’S GUIDE TO INSTAGRAM ’S HOT SPRINGS

PLUS PENANG BACOLOD SIEM REAP FIJI AND TONGA

SINGAPORE S$7.90 / HONG KONG HK$43 THAILAND THB175 / INDONESIA IDR50,000 MALAYSIA MYR18 / VIETNAM VND85,000 MACAU MOP44 / PHILIPPINES PHP240 BURMA MMK35 / CAMBODIA KHR22,000 BRUNEI BND7.90 / LAOS LAK52,000 CHECKING IN

Spring Break Baring it all at Hoshinoya’s newest resort in the Taiwanese hot-spring town of Guguan. Story and PHOTOGRAPHS BY CHRIS SCHALKX

Mountain views meet mineral springs in Taiwan's leafy heartland.

22 NOVEMBER 2019 / TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM NOTHING BUT A TINY cotton towel protects my modesty at the steaming pool I’m about to enter. I may be in Taiwan, where hot-spring outings are usually swimwear-friendly family affairs, but here in the baths of Hoshinoya Guguan, tradition dictates I onsen the Japanese way: in my birthday suit. My initial awkwardness melts away the moment I submerge into the cypress-fringed outdoor bath. Fed by streams flowing down the craggy peak of Xueshan, ’s second-highest mountain, its water is slightly alkaline and on the pleasant side of piping hot, making it the perfect introductory onsen for a novice like me. FROM TOP: Opened in June, Hoshinoya Zigzagging through Guguan (hoshinoya.com; doubles the gardens; an elevated spot on from NT$7,560) is the luxury resort Xueshan’s slopes; chain’s first foray into Taiwan, and Taiwanese-style only its second resort outside of congee; rooms are Japan, where founder Kuniji designed for quiet Hoshino opened his first ryokan in relaxation. Nagano Prefecture in 1914. Its setting on a forested plateau in Guguan, a tiny hot-spring enclave in the island’s mountainous heartland 90 minutes west of , taps directly into the liquid treasure. “The qi is particularly good here,” stone bath endlessly fed by says the brand’s global wellness Xueshan’s hot springs, and refreshed manager, Keiko Watanabe, as we by a forest breeze. In a palette of stroll through the resort’s verdant muted greys and browns, interiors gardens. “The wind, the water reflect the clean, functional shapes —everything flows so naturally.” characteristic of Japanese Zen Qi, the Chinese concept of energy design. Every piece of furniture flow, informs both the resort’s (comfy futons and low-slung wellness program and its design daybeds among them) faces floor-to- — from the garden, where wooden ceiling windows that frame valley pathways zigzag through swaying views in countless shades of green. bamboo forest and babbling canals As the sun begins to set and the swirl around Chinese firs and humming of cicadas fills the air, Formosan gum trees (some of which I set off to the resort’s restaurant, date back to Japanese colonial times), following twists and turns through to the kaze no ma, a communal the garden, past a shimmering pool lounge on the fifth floor, optimally and gazebos lit up with lanterns positioned to catch the sunlight resembling fireflies. The dining and the crisp mountain air. room features both Western-style My room, too, is designed with seating and Japanese-style sunken qi in mind, laid out over two floors, dining booths, horigotatsu, the latter with a bedroom and lounge on the offering the best views of the garden. bottom and an onsen area on top. I opt for the eight-course kaiseki The focal point is an indoor-outdoor meal, a delicate pairing of Taiwanese

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bounty and Japanese cooking myself then soaking in hot water techniques, dished up by executive until my fingertips turn into raisins chef Shunsuke Fujii on a plethora is all wrong. She tells me not to just of tiny colorful ceramics. Highlights jump straight in, but to first splash include sea bream sashimi with myself 10 to 20 times to let my skin kumquat-infused salt, and grilled react to the minerals. She also Taiwanese grouper marinated teaches me gentle stretches and in soy sauce, mirin and sake. breathwork for when I’m submerged. The following day I loll around “Bathing is a kind of exercise,” she the resort’s pool and follow an explains. “The warm water can work in-again, out-again routine at my wonders on your skin and muscles.” private onsen. No tiny towels and The masterclass is followed curious glances here. Come by a massage at the spa, where nightfall, I slip into a navy-colored two of the four shoji paper–screened yukata and traditional wooden geta treatment rooms come with private shoes to meet Ms. Watanabe again onsen pools facing a mountainscape —this time for an onsen masterclass that’s now shrouded in clouds. in the spa’s lobby lounge. Turns out I don’t tell my masseuse about that my method of hastily washing my hike—or attempted hike—along the 90-minute uphill Shao Lai hiking FROM TOP: Kaiseki trail I’d tried earlier that day, morsels arrive on but my weary calves give it away. delicate ceramics; It’s nothing she can’t fix with the outlook here is always green. a combination of Chinese and European massage techniques. As the weekend comes to a close, I ignore Ms. Watanabe’s teachings and take one last way-too-long soak on my balcony. Frets of work and deadlines evaporate with every billow of steam. I’ve spent numerous weekends at my in-laws’ summer home not far from here, quietly pleading with my wife if we could please go home already. This time, however, I dread the thought of heading back to the city.

THREE MORE HOT-SPRING along the Nanshi River just a programs complement the carbonated and sulfur smell– half-hour from , Volando health benefits of 45-degree- free. Mineral-rich and alkaline, RESORTS IN TAIWAN Urai promises a regenerative, Celcius white-sulfur spring- it’s fabled for its beautifying close-to-nature experience, water baths. All guestrooms properties, and is said to leave The hills are alive with with practically every space come with a yoga mat, the skin supple and smooth. the bubbling of hot springs. drenched in forest views. aromatic plants, organic bath Yamagata Kaku Hotel & Spa Here are some other chill Dining comes in the form amenities and a private bath lets you tap into this fountain spots for soaking. of French and Italian food with sound system for a multi- of youth with modern, Zen- highlighting fresh native sensory experience. calm rooms within walking Volando Urai Spring ingredients. Preventive medicine and the distance of the entrance of Spa & Resort volandospringpark.com; odd cosmetic treatment are Jiaoxi Hot Spring Park. Soak This Relais & Châteaux hot- doubles from NT$16,000. also available onsite at Beitou in public baths in the park, spring resort in mountainous Health Management Hospital. in the communal baths on the Wulai is among Taiwan’s most Hotel Royal Beitou hotelroyal.com.tw/beitou/en; top floor of the hotel, or in renowned. You’re spoiled for Located in Taipei’s Beitou doubles from NT$11,999. your room’s own deep, stone bathing options, with a public district—another area famed tub. yamagatakaku.com.tw; bathhouse, indoor hot and for its springs—this holistic- Yamagata Kaku Hotel & Spa doubles from NT$16,000. cold baths and a private tub in healing retreat’s spa, fitness, The Jiaoxi Township brand of — RANDY MULYANTO and BEK every guestroom. Sidled up hydrotherapy and nutrition spring water is clear, VAN VLIET

24 NOVEMBER 2019 / TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM NOVEMBER 2019 UPGRADE

PUT YOURSELF IN THE PICTURE: HOLIDAYS MADE BY INSTAGRAM

#travelgramSleuth your way through the crazy-popular photo-sharing app to Insta-plan your next, best vacation. BY CHRIS SCHALKX. ILLUSTRATIONS BY WASINEE CHANTAKORN It’s painfully easy to waste hours scrolling through whimsical sunset shots and artfully plated dishes on Instagram. How about turning this time into a productive trip-planning sesh instead? With more than a billion users from every corner of the globe, no other platform harbors such a wealth of hyper-local and real-time travel information. You need to know how to cut through the selfies and #OutfitOfTheDay nonsense, but once you do you’ll be swimming in the insider intel that traditional guidebooks—and even on-the-ground blogs—are missing.

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BEFORE YOU GO

Instagram’s1. searchHunt engine for isn’t the Hashtags most robust, but with a little creativity, you can surface relevant posts through hashtags. Be specific, though; a search for #bangkok returns sexy selfies, handbag advertisements and blurry food shots, but look up We’ve picked out some of our #bangkokbrunch, and you’ll discover tucked-away coffee shops favorite Instagrammers and the best addresses for avocado toast. around Asia and asked them to share the best insider tips from their timelines.

THE INSIDERS

@samishome — Hong Kong

“When in Hong Kong, seek out its typical local cafés (cha chaan teng). Matchbox Café in Causeway Bay ■ Tap the magnifying glass at the ■ Play around with prefixes and harkens back to the 60s–70s and is bottom of the Instagram app to affixes to find exactly what you’re outfitted in retro interiors and fake open the “search” page. Type your looking for. Always include the minibus booths. Order the char siu #saigon pork macaroni soup!” search query (e.g. ) then name of your destination. The hit TAGS. You’ll be presented with search page will come up with a list of hashtags. Tap one and suggestions and predictions based posts with that hashtag will on what you type, giving you even appear under two tabs; TOP (the more ideas. Some tried-and- most-liked posts) and RECENT. tested examples: Cafés—#cafehopping[city] ■ Once you’ve uncovered useful Food ideas—#[city]foodie hashtags, you can “follow” them, Scenic spots —#adayin[city] so that the hashtag’s top results Tourist sites—#discover[city] show up in your Instagram feed. Activities—#thingstodo[city]

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Let’sSetting face it: Some people Tastemakers just travel better. Always on the move, perpetually at the newest bars, best boutique hotels and hippest galleries whether in Mumbai or Tokyo. And lucky for us, many of them love sharing their whereabouts. Steer clear of the million-or-so-follower influencers whose pictures only involve themselves draped over the ledge of an infinity pool somewhere tropical, bank-breaking and sponsored. Instead, hunt for those sharing the interesting bits of a destination. 2. Follow the Locals Instagram has spawned a legion of local ■ If you’re a food-focused traveler, use Instagram’s search ambassadors who proudly share their engine to look up profiles of globetrotting chefs (@pawkhrua, hometown. They’re often the best source @andrechiang_sg, @chefjoseandres) or food writers for insider intel: new bars, off-the-beaten- (@francis_lam, @kat_odell) who usually eat at the most path markets and local street-food carts. interesting restaurants—or street joints. Design buffs should seek out traveling architects, designers and other ■ Start by using the search engine to look up creatives (@kellywearstler, @jj.acuna, @serendella) as they travel-related pages that crowdsource their often have a penchant for finding a place’s prettiest spots. content. Usually, tourism boards (@visit_ singapore, @vietnamtourismboard), travel ■ Stuck for inspiration? Browsing through the bylines in media (@travelandleisureasia), or unofficial your favorite travel, design or food magazines, and then fan accounts (@webangkok, @hongkong.insta) looking them up on Instagram is a good start. are good starting points. Just typing a city’s name will usually result in a list of useful ■ Once you’ve discovered a page you like, tap SUGGESTED pages to start with. In many cases, a blue FOR YOU under their profile (hit the downward arrow next checkmark indicates it’s an official account. to MESSAGE ) and swipe across for similar pages.

■ When you see a shot you like, tap through to Better yet, some Instagrammers make it easy to discover the profile of the source (usually mentioned in their tips by neatly grouping them in Stories Highlights on the caption, or tagged in the picture itself) to their profile. For example, @taiwanwalker is a foodie tour find what else they’ve been sharing. guide who pins her top food recommendations from Tainan to Kyushu with clear city labels. Others, like travel journalist ■ Some cities might not have an active tourism Gloria Chung of @foodandtravelhk, label their top tips with board or fan page. But searching for hashtags city-specific, easy-to-find hashtags like #foodandtravelSeoul like #[city]insider, #[city]blogger, or #[city]life and #foodandtravelBrisbane, helping their followers create often yields good results too. instant city guides in a jiffy.

@foodsaketokyo—Tokyo THE INSIDERS “Shinjuku Sanchome is filled with casual izakaya. Start off at Saiseisakaba with grilled skewers and onigiri, then continue the evening in the area.”

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Something5.Just you Ask! still don’t know? Chances are, some of your followers have been there before. Since not every part of one’s trip— even if they’re highlights— ends up on Instagram, it usually pays to ask for recommendations.

■ Put up a simple Instagram Story (with or without a “Q+A sticker”) or a post announcing that you’re planning a trip somewhere with a request for tips. Be specific: if you’re looking for vegan restaurants, make it clear in order to avoid 4.Reverse-EngineerWhy reinvent the wheel? Benefit from the Itineraries research previous a barrage of useless (but well- travelers have already conducted by reverse-engineering their intentioned) advice. itineraries through their Instagram posts. ■ For the best results, make sure your profile is set to ■ Find someone with a similar travel Peak, but only those in the know will public. Add a few relevant style by clicking on a post of a venue check-in at Asia Society’s equally hashtags to your post or story you want to visit. Under the business photo-worthy rooftop garden. The to be discovered by more name will be the location in smaller latter are more likely to have shared users outside of your network type. Tap it and the “location” page other under-the-radar spots worth who could offer tips. Adding will open, with public posts of checking out. the geotag of the city you’re everyone who has checked in here. visiting is a good idea, too. ■ This is a great technique to scout ■ Now, tap on a user and scope out out interesting local Instagrammers, ■ Also “@” mention your their profile to see where else they’ve too: start off at a neighborhood diner destination’s official tourism checked in. The more niche your or a non-touristy café, and tap board if they’re on starting point, the better: just about through to its location page to see Instagram—who knows the every tourist will check-in at Victoria which locals have checked in there. cool stuff they can help with!

THE @ieatishootipost—Singapore INSIDERS “This stall at Chinatown Complex Food Centre in Singapore serves the most traditional cendol. Everything is still made by hand, and a bowl of this sweet treat costs only S$2!”

56 NOVEMBER 2019 / TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM THE INSIDERS

The Instagram6. appGet allows Organized you to “bookmark” other peoples’ Instagram posts in a private collection, helping you easily @wearekinkin reference them again later. Instagram’s “saved posts” interface — lets you categorize your bookmarks in “collections.” Here’s where things get interesting: you can create as many collections as Bangkok you’d like, making it a powerful tool to organize travel tips. “For top-notch Thai-Chinese food, don’t just stick to Yaowarat (like all ■ To save a post, tap the little collection for each upcoming trip, the guidebooks tell you). Instead, we bookmark icon below the post or divide it even further into point our friends to Chokdee Kao you’d like to save. A single tap collections for restaurants, hotels Mun Kai, a hole-in-the-wall in will send it directly to your and in-the-know Instagrammers Samsen. Don’t miss their signature goat stew and stir-fried bitter gourd “saved posts” folder for you in places you’re planning to hit with egg!” to access at a later date. up. As the word-count for collection titles is limited, using ■ Tap the bookmark button a emojis (flags, food) can help you little longer, and you will be save space, and make the prompted to save it to a specific different collections instantly collection. Add your post to an recognizable. existing collection, or create a new collection from scratch by ■ Once you get to the actual trip adding a title. planning, you have a useful list of interesting places at the ready. ■ To keep things neatly Plot them on Google Maps, and organized, create a separate you’re good to go.

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ON THE GROUND

THE Get the Lay Feast Hungry INSIDERS of the Land Eyes Thanks to Instagram’s geotag Some dishes sound great written @taipeifoodie search function, you can have out, but are a letdown in reality. complete strangers do a recce Then there are those gastronomic — before your trip to a certain spot. terms (escabeche? involtini?) A browse through the photos that you’re too embarrassed to ask Taipei earlier visitors have posted at a about. Local joints might have no location gains you the kind of intel menu at all or nothing in English. “A visit to Taipei isn’t complete you usually won’t find on a Instagram, yet again, to the without dropping by one of its many teahouses. Located on historic Dihua brand’s website or in travel rescue. Find the restaurant’s Street, South Street Delight Tea guides. Use it to learn about dress location page or its profile and tap House is a favorite of mine. The old- codes at restaurants (are people in through to the posts it’s tagged in timey interior is very photogenic.” the pictures decked out to the to get an overview of what folks nines, or more casual?), family- are eating. Spot the must-order friendliness of hotels (do you see dishes and even turn your phone lots of kids in pictures?), or into a pick-and-point menu that general accessibility of a place can break any language barrier. (are tables spaced far enough apart for a wheelchair user to pass through?). A browse through these geotagged pictures also gives you objective insight into a Find Real- venue, untainted by the highly stylized brand images or press Time Info shots you’ll find on the brand’s Instagram Stories, the snappy, own channels. full-screen updates accessed

58 NOVEMBER 2019 / TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM Use it for crowd-sourced weather as @mo_singapore (Mandarin forecasts, or to get a feel of how Oriental Singapore’s Instagram busy a foodie hotspot will be Your Way through Marina Bay during lunch or dinnertime. It’s package) and @capellashanghai also a fail-safe way to find out if a (Capella Shanghai’s Point, Shoot, venue is actually open: published Retouch experience) offer opening times aren’t always activities and deals that include up-to-date, public holidays could tours with professional affect them, and not every photographers and influencers, establishment—especially mom- showing you the city’s prettiest and-pops—has a contact number. corners and sharing the tricks If you see that guests have checked of the trade. in within the past hour, chances are high you’re not going to encounter closed doors. Follow Your Favorites Stay Inspired Every hotel, bar and restaurant Stuck for photo inspiration? A worth patronizing has a presence quick scroll through the pictures on Instagram these days. snapped by visitors before you By following the accounts of will help get your creative juices businesses you’re planning to through the bubbles on top of the flowing. Use the location page to visit, you will be the first to know Instagram app, are often a great see what angles and subjects other about events, specials and source of real-time information. photographers are using to promotions—which often don’t Contrary to regular posts, which capture the place—whether it’s get communicated on websites. are often heavily retouched and/ a photo-worthy vantage point or @potatoheadbali announces their or published days after the photo a backdrop for the perfect selfie. guest DJs via their Instagram; was taken, Instagram Stories are This will often also uncover @canvasbkk shares their weekly usually unfiltered and posted on hidden corners of a place you specials with a photo on their the spur of the moment. Browse might not have found by simply timeline. If you have specific to a location page, and tap the walking around. Serious questions (or want to make a rainbow-bordered bubble to see shutterbugs can take their reservation), getting in touch Instagram Stories posted from Instagram game up a notch by through Instagram direct here within the last 24 hours (the joining forces with a seasoned message can be much quicker lifespan of a Stories update). photographer. Some hotels, such than reaching out via e-mail.

@lineshapecolour — THE INSIDERS Saigon

“With its vibrant markets, ancient pagodas and amazing food, Saigon’s District 5 is one of my favorite areas. So full of character and lots of color!”

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POST-TRIP TIPS

THE INSIDERS

@euniceeunny — Create a Pay it Back Kuala Lumpur Instagram as a travel guide is Keepsake only as good as its users make “KL locals really, really love their Having a recap of a trip on your it. It’s good to give back so that pork noodles. On my mission to hunt Instagram timeline is great (and others can benefit from your down the best bowl in Klang Valley useful to keep a record of the (I have more than 100 spots saved!), experiences (and to help ensure Kedai Kopi Wah Cheong does one of places you’ve been), but nothing that lovely, family-run restaurant the best versions. beats reminiscing about past you shared receives a little more holidays with tangible keepsakes patronage). Make it easy for other in hand. Services such as travelers to discover your posts by @artifactuprising’s “Instagram adding an accurate geotag, and Friendly Books” make designing always add a few hashtags to your and printing holiday photo post description that are albums as easy as logging in on indicative of the photo you’re your Instagram account and sharing. picking the photos you’d like to include. And then there’s always the good ol’ postcard: Apps like Now,... put the phone down and @postagram will print and send actually look at that painting, float customizable postcards using in the sea, and, for goodness’ sake, your favorite Instagram snaps. eat that dish before it gets cold.

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