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Seek out Its Typical Local Cafés (Cha Chaan Teng)

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SOUTHEAST ASIA NOVEMBER 2019 Time travel in TIBET INSIDER’S GUIDE TO INSTAGRAM TAIWAN’S HOT SPRINGS PLUS PENANG BACOLOD SIEM REAP FIJI AND TONGA SINGAPORE S$7.90 / HONG KONG HK$43 THAILAND THB175 / INDONESIA IDR50,000 MALAYSIA MYR18 / VIETNAM VND85,000 MACAU MOP44 / PHILIPPINES PHP240 BURMA MMK35 / CAMBODIA KHR22,000 BRUNEI BND7.90 / LAOS LAK52,000 CHECKING IN Spring Break Baring it all at Hoshinoya’s newest resort in the Taiwanese hot-spring town of Guguan. Story and PHOTOGRAPHS BY CHRIS SCHALKX Mountain views meet mineral springs in Taiwan's leafy heartland. 22 NOVEMBER 2019 / TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM NOTHING BUT A TINY cotton towel protects my modesty at the steaming pool I’m about to enter. I may be in Taiwan, where hot-spring outings are usually swimwear-friendly family affairs, but here in the baths of Hoshinoya Guguan, tradition dictates I onsen the Japanese way: in my birthday suit. My initial awkwardness melts away the moment I submerge into the cypress-fringed outdoor bath. Fed by streams flowing down the craggy peak of Xueshan, East Asia’s second-highest mountain, its water is slightly alkaline and on the pleasant side of piping hot, making it the perfect introductory onsen for a novice like me. FROM TOP: Opened in June, Hoshinoya Zigzagging through Guguan (hoshinoya.com; doubles the gardens; an elevated spot on from NT$7,560) is the luxury resort Xueshan’s slopes; chain’s first foray into Taiwan, and Taiwanese-style only its second resort outside of congee; rooms are Japan, where founder Kuniji designed for quiet Hoshino opened his first ryokan in relaxation. Nagano Prefecture in 1914. Its setting on a forested plateau in Guguan, a tiny hot-spring enclave in the island’s mountainous heartland 90 minutes west of Taichung, taps directly into the liquid treasure. “The qi is particularly good here,” stone bath endlessly fed by says the brand’s global wellness Xueshan’s hot springs, and refreshed manager, Keiko Watanabe, as we by a forest breeze. In a palette of stroll through the resort’s verdant muted greys and browns, interiors gardens. “The wind, the water reflect the clean, functional shapes —everything flows so naturally.” characteristic of Japanese Zen Qi, the Chinese concept of energy design. Every piece of furniture flow, informs both the resort’s (comfy futons and low-slung wellness program and its design daybeds among them) faces floor-to- — from the garden, where wooden ceiling windows that frame valley pathways zigzag through swaying views in countless shades of green. bamboo forest and babbling canals As the sun begins to set and the swirl around Chinese firs and humming of cicadas fills the air, Formosan gum trees (some of which I set off to the resort’s restaurant, date back to Japanese colonial times), following twists and turns through to the kaze no ma, a communal the garden, past a shimmering pool lounge on the fifth floor, optimally and gazebos lit up with lanterns positioned to catch the sunlight resembling fireflies. The dining and the crisp mountain air. room features both Western-style My room, too, is designed with seating and Japanese-style sunken qi in mind, laid out over two floors, dining booths, horigotatsu, the latter with a bedroom and lounge on the offering the best views of the garden. bottom and an onsen area on top. I opt for the eight-course kaiseki The focal point is an indoor-outdoor meal, a delicate pairing of Taiwanese TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM / NOVEMBER 2019 23 CHECKING IN bounty and Japanese cooking myself then soaking in hot water techniques, dished up by executive until my fingertips turn into raisins chef Shunsuke Fujii on a plethora is all wrong. She tells me not to just of tiny colorful ceramics. Highlights jump straight in, but to first splash include sea bream sashimi with myself 10 to 20 times to let my skin kumquat-infused salt, and grilled react to the minerals. She also Taiwanese grouper marinated teaches me gentle stretches and in soy sauce, mirin and sake. breathwork for when I’m submerged. The following day I loll around “Bathing is a kind of exercise,” she the resort’s pool and follow an explains. “The warm water can work in-again, out-again routine at my wonders on your skin and muscles.” private onsen. No tiny towels and The masterclass is followed curious glances here. Come by a massage at the spa, where nightfall, I slip into a navy-colored two of the four shoji paper–screened yukata and traditional wooden geta treatment rooms come with private shoes to meet Ms. Watanabe again onsen pools facing a mountainscape —this time for an onsen masterclass that’s now shrouded in clouds. in the spa’s lobby lounge. Turns out I don’t tell my masseuse about that my method of hastily washing my hike—or attempted hike—along the 90-minute uphill Shao Lai hiking FROM TOP: Kaiseki trail I’d tried earlier that day, morsels arrive on but my weary calves give it away. delicate ceramics; It’s nothing she can’t fix with the outlook here is always green. a combination of Chinese and European massage techniques. As the weekend comes to a close, I ignore Ms. Watanabe’s teachings and take one last way-too-long soak on my balcony. Frets of work and deadlines evaporate with every billow of steam. I’ve spent numerous weekends at my in-laws’ summer home not far from here, quietly pleading with my wife if we could please go home already. This time, however, I dread the thought of heading back to the city. THREE MORE HOT-SPRING along the Nanshi River just a programs complement the carbonated and sulfur smell– half-hour from Taipei, Volando health benefits of 45-degree- free. Mineral-rich and alkaline, RESORTS IN TAIWAN Urai promises a regenerative, Celcius white-sulfur spring- it’s fabled for its beautifying close-to-nature experience, water baths. All guestrooms properties, and is said to leave The hills are alive with with practically every space come with a yoga mat, the skin supple and smooth. the bubbling of hot springs. drenched in forest views. aromatic plants, organic bath Yamagata Kaku Hotel & Spa Here are some other chill Dining comes in the form amenities and a private bath lets you tap into this fountain spots for soaking. of French and Italian food with sound system for a multi- of youth with modern, Zen- highlighting fresh native sensory experience. calm rooms within walking Volando Urai Spring ingredients. Preventive medicine and the distance of the entrance of Spa & Resort volandospringpark.com; odd cosmetic treatment are Jiaoxi Hot Spring Park. Soak This Relais & Châteaux hot- doubles from NT$16,000. also available onsite at Beitou in public baths in the park, spring resort in mountainous Health Management Hospital. in the communal baths on the Wulai is among Taiwan’s most Hotel Royal Beitou hotelroyal.com.tw/beitou/en; top floor of the hotel, or in renowned. You’re spoiled for Located in Taipei’s Beitou doubles from NT$11,999. your room’s own deep, stone bathing options, with a public district—another area famed tub. yamagatakaku.com.tw; bathhouse, indoor hot and for its springs—this holistic- Yamagata Kaku Hotel & Spa doubles from NT$16,000. cold baths and a private tub in healing retreat’s spa, fitness, The Jiaoxi Township brand of — RANDY MULYANTO and BEK every guestroom. Sidled up hydrotherapy and nutrition spring water is clear, VAN VLIET 24 NOVEMBER 2019 / TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM NOVEMBER 2019 UPGRADE PUT YOURSELF IN THE PICTURE: HOLIDAYS MADE BY INSTAGRAM #travelgramSleuth your way through the crazy-popular photo-sharing app to Insta-plan your next, best vacation. BY CHRIS SCHALKX. ILLUSTRATIONS BY WASINEE CHANTAKORN It’s painfully easy to waste hours scrolling through whimsical sunset shots and artfully plated dishes on Instagram. How about turning this time into a productive trip-planning sesh instead? With more than a billion users from every corner of the globe, no other platform harbors such a wealth of hyper-local and real-time travel information. You need to know how to cut through the selfies and #OutfitOfTheDay nonsense, but once you do you’ll be swimming in the insider intel that traditional guidebooks—and even on-the-ground blogs—are missing. TRAVELANDLEISUREASIA.COM / NOVEMBER 2019 53 UPGRADE: IG BEFORE YOU GO Instagram’s1. searchHunt engine for isn’t the Hashtags most robust, but with a little creativity, you can surface relevant posts through hashtags. Be specific, though; a search for #bangkok returns sexy selfies, handbag advertisements and blurry food shots, but look up We’ve picked out some of our #bangkokbrunch, and you’ll discover tucked-away coffee shops favorite Instagrammers and the best addresses for avocado toast. around Asia and asked them to share the best insider tips from their timelines. THE INSIDERS @samishome — Hong Kong “When in Hong Kong, seek out its typical local cafés (cha chaan teng). Matchbox Café in Causeway Bay ■ Tap the magnifying glass at the ■ Play around with prefixes and harkens back to the 60s–70s and is bottom of the Instagram app to affixes to find exactly what you’re outfitted in retro interiors and fake open the “search” page. Type your looking for. Always include the minibus booths. Order the char siu #saigon pork macaroni soup!” search query (e.g. ) then name of your destination. The hit TAGS. You’ll be presented with search page will come up with a list of hashtags. Tap one and suggestions and predictions based posts with that hashtag will on what you type, giving you even appear under two tabs; TOP (the more ideas.
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