• 2002 Oct. #48 The Scoop on Hueco Tanks $16,000$16,000 awarded in AF Grants your climbing future Letter from Sam Davidson Hueco Tanks is a national treasure. The his- torical and cultural values of this area in west LETTER FROM Texas are rare and marvelous. So are the recre- SAM DAVIDSON . p. 2 ational values—there is no other climbing area POLICY UPDATE Hueco Tanks Survival like Hueco in all the world. Guide, Interview with Hueco Manager, and The Access Fund has been fighting to keep Washington Trip Report . p. 3-5,7 Hueco open to climbing for ten years. With the AREA REPORTS Regional access news help of local climbers, we have succeeded. across the nation . p.6 Three years ago, the Texas Parks & Wildlife MERCHANDISE . p.7 Department tried to close the entire park to climbing. Thanks to our intensive advocacy, LETTERS Climbing on Sacred Ground . p. 8 most of Hueco is now open for climbing. CORPORATE PARTNERS Access Fund However, the threat of more severe restrictions, Corporate Partners. p. 9 even full-blown closures, is very real. That's SECOND ROUND GRANTS. .. p.10 why the Access Fund will remain vigilant and "on the job" at Hueco. EVENTS AND THANK YOUS. p. 11 The Access Fund is a national, nonprofit Hueco Tanks is an excellent, if frustrating, organization dedicated to keeping climbing case study in the importance of strong climber areas open & conserving the climbing envi- ronment. Since its incorporation in 1990, the advocacy. A decade of effort and expense, at Access Fund has provided more than $1 mil- both the local and national levels, were lion for climbing conservation and education across the US. We’ve paid for land purchases, required to preserve access. The lesson: there is climbers’ campgrounds, educational brochures, toilets, signs, and scientific research on no quick fix to many climbing access problems. climbers’ impact on birds of prey and cliff- In this issue, we provide a "Survival Guide" dwelling plants. For more information, please contact us. to climbing at Hueco Tanks. Don't be put off by the bureaucracy—the bouldering at Hueco is as www.accessfund.org good as ever. Just remember when you're there phone: 303-545-6772 that all of us have a role to play in preserving address: P.O. Box 17010 access. Keep a low profile, be respectful of Boulder, CO 80308 rangers and other visitors, and make sure you Vertical Times is the membership newsletter of the Access Fund published six times a year educate yourself about the fabulous rock art of in February, April, June, August, October, and the area—it'll enhance your overall experience. December. Authorizing organization: The Access Fund, 2475 Broadway, Boulder, CO Please don't forget to tell other climbers that 80304. Hueco is open thanks to the Access Fund. This issue date: October 1, 2002. Volume #48. Price: $30/year. "And thanks to Sam Editorial Director: John Heisel Davidson! After more Editors: Kate Cavicchio, Kerry Cowan and Steve Matous than a decade of hard work and perseverance Cover: World class bouldering in the Chihuahuan Sam is leaving the Access desert. The Access Fund continues to work on Fund. We will miss his behalf of the climbing community to ease access restrictions and facilitate bouldering at strength, wisdom and Hueco Tanks. This fall, an Access Fund Adopt-A- passion for our ideals. Heisel John Crag event will coincide with the launching of the new local climbing advocacy organization, Please join me in wishing Climbers of Hueco Tanks. him the best of luck and climber: Jason Keith success in his future photographer: John Heisel endeavors,” said Steve New Access Fund Executive Matous, executive director. Director Steve Matous 2 The Access Fund Survival Guide to Hueco Tanks, TX Thanks to years of strong advocacy by the Access Fund Hueco is open for climbing! Here are a few tips for making your climbing experience at Hueco more enjoyable. Hueco has a long, and somewhat troubled, climbing history. A few years ago, climbing was nearly banned throughout the park, due to concerns about impacts to rock art and natural resources. Climbers did not help themselves by breaking the rules from time to time. Please, obey all park rules, be respectful to park staff, Heisel John and keep a low profile (i.e. no cursing, yelling, or boom boxes). This will help the Access Fund Self-guided access at Hueco is limited to North Mountain (pictured above). The Access Fund is working improve access to areas of the Park currently to ease restrictions elsewhere in the Park. closed. Directions: Hueco Tanks State Historic Park such as winter and spring holidays). For East is located in west Texas, near the city of El and/or West Mountain you must reserve a spot Paso. Head 32 miles northeast of El Paso on US on a guided tour. Highway 62/180, and turn north on Ranch Camping is available in the Park for $10 per Road 2775. Follow signs to the park entrance. night—call the Park for reservations. Camping Hours of Operation: Hueco Tanks is open 7 in the Park includes sites with water and/or days a week, year-round from 8 AM to 6 PM electricity ($2 more), and restrooms with show- during winter, and 7 AM to 7 PM (Fri-Sun) and ers. The disadvantage of staying in the Park is 8 AM to 6 PM (Mon-Thurs) in the summer. You that it closes at either 6 PM or 7 PM (depending must be out of the park by closing time or you on the season) after which you can’t leave your may be issued a citation! site. There’s a 6 person and 2 vehicle limit per Park Entry Requirements: Once per year, site—no fires or charcoal. Campers can only get before you can climb at Hueco you must watch reservations for 3 days in a row; otherwise an orientation video to get a Visitor campsites may be available on a walk-in basis. Orientation Card. Alternatives to the Hueco Campground Reservations & Fees: There is a $4/day include the nearby Hueco Rock Ranch, which entry fee for the Park. Those who visit Hueco offers camping and rooms. The HRR has a more than 13 times per year may want to pur- kitchen, slack lines, campfire pits, and a com- chase the $50 Texas Conservation Passport. munity room with a library and TV. Call 915- Before visiting Hueco you should arrange for 855-0142 for prices and availability. The ven- two things: (1) camping, and (2) access. Both erable Pete’s Quonset Hut (915-857-6336) is require reservations obtained from one of these still open, and for a $2.00 per night “dona- two numbers: tion” you can set up your tent there, with no amenities. • Hueco Tanks State Historic Park: 915-857-1135 Access: To make sure you can get into the • Texas State Park’s Central Reservations in park, make a reservation in advance: 60 of the Austin: 512-389-8900 North Mountain slots can be reserved up to six months in advance, leaving 10 walk-in spots. If The Park is divided into two zones: the self- North Mountain is booked full, wait around at guided area (North Mountain) and the guide- the entrance as the Park will free up slots only area (East and West Mountains). To go when people leave and when people who have anywhere in the Park you’ll want a reservation reservations don’t show up. All reservations (only 70 people are allowed on North Mountain must be secured with a credit card to cover the at one time, although you may get lucky and $4 entry fee. During the peak winter boulder- obtain a park entry pass as a walk-in – don’t ing season, it’s a good idea to camp at the count on this during peak visitation periods Hueco Campground if you want to get one of 3 the 10 unreserved passes. If you don’t stay at of user issues. We could be more customer the Hueco Campground, you’ll need to call friendly in more respects. We have a lot of Austin (512-389-8900) for North Mountain enforcement issues, many of them are not reservations; if you do stay in the Park they totally under control yet. We do a bad job of can reserve you a North Mountain slot there. selling the park. For a long time we have been East and West Mountain Reservations: Access trying to unsell the park. A lot of the Climbing to East and West Mountains is allowed if magazines put out the word that Hueco Tanks accompanied by a state-certified guide. Guided was not open anymore. tours are led either by volunteer guides, com- Heisel: What are the management goals for mercial guides, or Park staff, and can be sched- climbing issues? uled Wednesday thru Sunday depending on Moses: We're trying to put in a trail system to guide availability. Tours are filled up on a first cut down on some of the social trails in the come, first served basis and are limited to 10 Park. That's one of the issues that climbers people. The Park allows seven guided tours at directly impact. There is a fairly high turnover any one time. Call the Park to reserve a volun- in volunteer climbing guides. Commercial guid- teer guide (915-857-1135). ing has been very helpful to us. We're trying to Commercial Guides can also get you into East lift some of the North Mountain access restric- and West Mountains, but you’ll have to pay a tions.