05_598899 ch01.qxp 2/14/06 7:38 PM Page 7

The Best Full-Day 1 Tours

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. 90 41 . S. Wabash Ave. S S. Michigan Ave. 8 S MMidwayidway 94 9 05_598899 ch01.qxp 2/14/06 7:38 PM Page 9

9 The Best ith one day to spend in Chicago, focus on the heart of Wthe city. The Loop is a collection of commercial, governmen- .

W. Ohio St. t . . S . tal, and cultural buildings contained within a corral of elevated train t t

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K nd Ave. a i ra W. G n tracks. Here you’ll find classic Chicago experiences, plus the chance l l n in r VILLE k C a o g n . e b s l to glimpse the city’s future in its newest urban showcase, Millennium a r r b W. St. N r N . u a t o O F

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S . r . . START: Washington/Wells El Station. y Park. t r D N N e h D W. Hubbard St. . B t a s r N t a u S n RIVER NORTH b c W. Kinzie St. . h m N Rive 1 ★★★ = Merchandise r u Ride the Brown C l h Mart o i C Line “El” (Elevated Train) c E. Wac a ker Dr. g .

e Board the o Chicago around the Loop. v R A . i t v Brown Line at Washington/Wells and

S E. Wacker Pl. e E. So. Water St. W. Wacker Dr. r . s n e l ride it around the Loop through the l o v e s A t canyons of office buildings (you’ll be e W h t

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N u N v i b www.transitchicago.com. Tickets R W. Madison St. m A ride on the city’s famous “El” train is a . u o r l $1.75 per ride, 85¢ for kids 7–12

g o quintessential Chicago experience. D

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k W. Monroe St. E. Monroe Dr. h c

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of Chicago windows, or stop in for Frango Mints, r Sears name was switched from Marshall

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B e To wer a favorite Chicago souvenir. Head Station v

h Field’s to Macy’s, much to locals’ hor- n t i A l

W. Jackson Blvd. E. Jackson Dr. u k inside to check out the largest h ror. This department store’s clock is n o s a

a S r Tiffany glass mosaic dome in the b F a .

S . @ 5 min.–2 hr. (if you W. Van Buren St. W Joan Miro’s Chicago is just one of many

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S world-class sculptures found in the Loop. want to shop). 111 N. State St. at

. y EEiissenhowerr W. Congress Pkwy. r Randolph St. 312/781-1000.

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Quench your thirst at the 3 classic n . . S . . S S o E. Balbo S S

S E. Balbo Dr. . t t soda fountain in Macy’s, or add a n Ave. S i l l C a W. Polk St. twist of lemon, cherry, or vanilla fla- .

n SOUTH LOOP S a E. 8th St.

C vor to your soft drink. 111 N. State

.

S Wrigley St. y 312/781-1000. $. Field E. 9th St. C H I C A G O 4 Miro’s Chicago. Originally E. 11th St. called The Sun, the Moon and .

. One Star, Joan Miro’s Chicago was e e v v

A unveiled in 1981. This 40-foot-tall

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a woman with outstretched arms c Field i W M

. sits in the Brunswick Plaza on Wash- . S S Midway ington Street, and overlooks the Picasso sculpture at the Daley 05_598899 ch01.qxp 2/14/06 7:38 PM Page 10

10

Center. @ 5 min. On the plaza of 69 W. Washington St. El: Red Line to Washington. 5 Reliance Building. Now the Hotel Burnham, this building, with a terra-cotta and glass exterior, was

Full-Day Tours Full-Day one of the world’s first skyscrapers. Stop inside to admire the terrazzo tile floors, white marble wainscot- ing, and mahogany door and window frames. Room numbers The Best painted on the translucent doors recall the structure’s days as an office building. Today, the Hotel Burnham features an eclectic decor, and an excellent ground-floor Built in 1890, the Reliance Building restaurant with a view onto State features a landmark Gothic exterior. Street (p 100). @ 15 min. 1 W. (if you want to shop). 1 S. State St. Washington St. y 312/782-1111. y 312/641-7000. Hours vary El: Red Line to Washington. depending on season; call ahead. 6 Carson Pirie Scott & Co. El: Red Line to Monroe. The exterior of this Louis Sullivan– 7 = designed department store features Chicago Public Library/ the renowned architect’s trademark Harold Washington Library intricate ornamentation. Sullivan Center. This hulking Italian Renais- (1856–1924) was one of the nation’s sance building is the world’s largest most influential architects, and public library. Named for the city’s his distinctive style of decoration first and only African-American embraced natural forms—an mayor, who died of a heart attack in approach that influenced his student, 1987 while still in office, the building fills an entire city block. On the sec- Frank Lloyd Wright. @ 5 min.–2 hr. ond floor, the Thomas Hughes The Chicago Public Library is the largest Children’s Library makes an excellent public library in the world. resting spot for families traveling with kids. @ 30 min. 400 S. State St. y 312/747-4300. www.chipublib.org. Free admission. Mon–Thurs 9am– 7pm; Fri–Sat 9am–5pm; Sun 1–5pm. Closed holidays. El: Brown or Purple line to Library. 8 ★★★ Art Institute of Chicago. Stop in to view the Impressionist collection on the second floor, a highlight of this, Chicago’s grande dame of muse- ums. With 33 paintings by Claude Monet, dancers by Degas, and Seurat’s legendary masterpiece, A Sunday Afternoon on La Grande Jatte, this museum is a must for any art lover. @ 1 hr. See p 38. 05_598899 ch01.qxp 3/14/06 12:13 PM Page 11

11 The Best 9 ★★★ = Millennium Park. beautiful landscaping, elegant classi- When Chicago’s newest showpiece cally inspired architecture, and public debuted in summer 2004, it won entertainment spaces. raves for its winning combination of in One Day

Millennium Park P P N P Columbus Dr. P E

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P St. Visitor Information Restrooms

Center Madison Washington Wheelchair accessible

If the weather is fine, you can make centerpiece is the £ Jay Pritzker a picnic out of the sandwiches and Pavilion, an outdoor music venue salads served at the ? designed by ; massive & Cafe (11 N. Michigan Ave.; stainless steel ribbons top the stage. y 312/521-7275; $). The Crown Another Gehry-designed standout, Fountain, and its two towers of ¢ BP Pedestrian Bridge, curves glass blocks with a shallow reflecting and winds its way over Columbus pool between them, is perfect for Drive, providing changing views of kids to splash around in warm the cityscape as you walk. Finally, weather (late at night, you’ll find stroll ° The , where revelers doing the same). Faces of 250 varieties of native perennial Chicagoans are projected through plants re-create a Midwestern prairie. the glass—and their mouths spew @ 2 hr. Michigan Ave. from Randolph water when you least expect it. The St. on the north end to Monroe St. on is an elliptical sculpture the south, and west to Columbus Dr. made of highly polished steel that y 312/752-1168. www.millennium reflects the nearby skyline, land- park.org. Free admission. Daily 6am– scape, and lights. For the most 11pm. El: Blue Line to Washington, mind-bending funhouse view, stand Red Line to Lake and Brown, Green, underneath the sculpture. The park’s Orange, or Purple line to Randolph. 05_598899 ch01.qxp2/14/067:38PMPage12 12 ing Park Rd. The Best Full-Day Tours

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13 The Best . k e C r e . a L F

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n your second day in Chicago, take to the water for a boat Ocruise, and gain insight into the people and events that shaped the city’s famous skyline. Stroll the Magnificent Mile, with its glittering array of shops. Finish your day in scenic Lincoln Park, with its charm- ing centerpiece, Lincoln Park Zoo. START: Southeast corner of the Michigan Avenue Bridge. Bus: 151 (Michigan Ave.) to Illinois Street. Full-Day Tours Full-Day

1 ★★★ Chicago Architecture Foundation’s Architecture River Cruise. You’ll see 50 or so The Best buildings from a unique perspective as you glide along the north and the south branches of the Chicago River. Narration is provided by docents, who do a good job of making the cruise enjoyable for all visitors, no matter what their level of architec- tural knowledge. In addition to point- ing out famous buildings—Marina City, the Civic Opera House, the Sears Tower, and Merchandise Mart, to name a few—they approach the sites thematically, explaining, for example, how Chicagoans’ use of the river has changed in the past 2 centuries. If you have very young kids, you may prefer the shorter (and less expen- A cruise along the Chicago River is one of the best ways to see the city’s fabulous sive) tours by Wendella Sightseeing architecture. Boats. Kids’ tickets cost $9 and the 1 tours last 1 hour. @ 1 ⁄2 hr. Southeast buy your tickets at the ArchiCenter, corner of Michigan Ave. bridge. 224 S. Michigan Ave., or at the boat Tickets $23 per person weekdays, $25 launch. Wendella Sightseeing Boats on weekends and holidays. Daily June– depart from Michigan Ave. bridge (on Oct 11am–3pm (weekends only May the northwest side, at the Wrigley and Nov). Purchase tickets in advance Building). y 312/337-1446. www. through (y 312/902- wendellaboats.com. Tickets $18 1500), or avoid the service charge and adults, $16 seniors, $9 children under 12. Daily Apr–Oct. Bus: 151. The Michigan Avenue Bridge offers some of the city’s best photo ops. 2 ★ Michigan Avenue Bridge. Gaze up at the Gothic splendor of the Tribune Tower and the white brilliance of the William J. Wrigley Jr. Building from Chicago’s most famous bridge, one of many that span the Chicago River. Designed to improve transportation and enhance the river- front, the bridge was completed in 1920, followed by the Wacker Drive esplanade (1926). Together, they 05_598899 ch01.qxp 2/14/06 7:38 PM Page 15

15 The Best provided an impressive gateway to North Michigan Avenue and led to its development as one of the city’s premier thoroughfares. Views from every direction are stunning, but in Two Days for one of the city’s best photo ops, look west down the Chicago River. @ 15 min. El: Green, Purple, Brown, or Orange line to State. 3 Tribune Tower. This Gothic design was the result of an interna- tional competition to create “the most beautiful office building in the world,” held in 1922 by the newspaper. The winning entry, with a crowning tower and fly- ing buttresses, was based on the The eye-catching Tribune Tower combines design of the French cathedral at Gothic elements with traditional sky- Rouen. The base of the building is scraper design. studded with over 120 stones from famous sites and structures in all 4 Puck’s, a cafe operated by 50 states and dozens of foreign Wolfgang Puck of Spago restaurant countries—from the Parthenon to fame, has seating overlooking the Bunker Hill. The lobby and gift shop Museum of Contemporary Art’s of the Tribune Tower are worthy 1-acre terraced sculpture garden. stops for Cubs fans (the baseball Mediterranean and Asian influences team is owned by the Tribune Com- enliven classic dishes, as exempli- pany). @ 15 min. 435 N. Michigan y fied by the three-bean salad with Ave. 312/222-3232. Bus: 151. shrimp, lime, and cilantro; and the smoked shrimp pizza with sun-dried The , one of many tomatoes and leeks. Inside the sculptures inside Oz Park. Museum of Contemporary Art, 220 E. Chicago Ave. (1 block east of Michigan Ave.). y 312/280-2660. $$. El: Red Line to Chicago.

5 = Oz Park. One of Lincoln Park’s most famous residents was L. Frank Baum (1856–1919), the author of The Wonderful Wizard of Oz, who settled in Chicago in 1891. Take a quick stroll through this 13-acre park, created in 1967 in his honor. You’ll find larger-than-life stat- ues of many Wizard-related charac- ters, including, most prominently, The Tin Man, designed by metal sculptor John Kearney. The paths are perfect for walking off your meal. There’s an “Emerald Garden” for strolling, and “’s Playlot,” a 05_598899 ch01.qxp 2/14/06 7:38 PM Page 16

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play area for kids. @ 30 min. 2021 N. Burling St. (at Lincoln Ave.) y 312/ 747-2200. Free admission. Open daily until dusk. El: Brown Line to Armitage. 6 Lincoln Park Conservatory. If the weather’s uncooperative, a

Full-Day Tours Full-Day visit to this conservatory’s climate- controlled environs can be a real mood-lifter. It’s comprised of four greenhouses—the Palm House, the Fernery, the Tropical House, and The Best the Show House—that offer sea- sonal displays. Even on the coldest The Lincoln Park Conservatory’s indoor day of winter, the Azalea and Camel- gardens are lush even in winter. lia show that begins in late January is sure to put a spring in your step. Georgian revival buildings and mod- Outside the front doors of the con- ern structures set amid gently servatory is an expansive lawn with rolling pathways, verdant lawns, and a French garden. Don’t miss the a profusion of flower gardens. The lovely Bates Fountain on the conser- star attraction is the Great Ape vatory’s south side, designed by House, where you can watch ape famous sculptor Augustus Saint- families interact. Also worth a stop Gaudens. @ 30 min. Fullerton Ave. is the Regenstein African Jour- (at Stockton Dr.). y 312/742-7736. ney, home to elephants, giraffes, The best way to get to Lincoln Park rhinos, and other large mammals. from the Miracle Mile is to stroll the Kids flock to the ever-popular Sea lakefront from Oak St. Beach to North Lion Pool, and there’s a Pritzker Ave. Beach, then cross the pedestrian Children’s Zoo and Farm-in-the- bridge over Lake Shore Dr. and into Zoo, where children are encour- the park. Free admission. Daily 9am– aged to touch a variety of small 5pm. Bus: 73, 151, or 156. animals under the supervision of zookeepers. The Farm is a working 7 ★★★ = Lincoln Park Zoo. reproduction of a Midwestern farm, The nation’s oldest zoo, founded in complete with chicken coops and 1868, is also one of the last free zoos demonstrations of butter churning. in the country. You’ll want to mean- Finish off your visit with a ride on the der a while among the landmark Endangered Species Carousel. @ 2–3 hr. 2200 N. Cannon Dr. (at A Siberian tiger; one of the many big cats y found at the Lincoln Park Zoo. Fullerton Pkwy.). 312/742-2000. www.lpzoo.com. Free admission. Buildings daily 10am–5pm (until 6:30pm Sat–Sun Memorial Day to Labor Day); grounds 9am–6pm (until 7pm Memorial Day to Labor Day and until 5pm Nov 1–May 31). Bus: 151.

Inside the Lincoln Park Zoo, the 8 Park Place Café food court (near the Lion House; $) is a good option for some quick refreshment. For a 05_598899 ch01.qxp 2/14/06 7:38 PM Page 17

17 The Best snack with a view, try the rooftop eatery, 9 Big Cats Café (near the Birds of Prey exhibit; $), which

offers muffins, scones, focaccia in Two Days sandwiches, salads, and flatbreads.

0 Chicago Green City Market. Chefs from Chicago’s best restau- rants load up their trucks with organic foods sold at this outdoor market, which takes place Chicagoans flock to the Green City Wednesday and Saturday morn- Market in summer for fresh produce. ings along the path between 1750 North Clark and Stockton homes with power sources miles Drive. You can browse the stalls away. @ 1 hr. Fullerton Ave. and Can- right along with the pros. You non Dr. y 773/755-5100. www.chias. might find fresh goat cheese or org. Admission $7 adults, $5 seniors (in season) freshly picked blue- and students, $4 kids 3–12, free for berries; if you’re hungry, you can kids under 3; free admission Thurs. get a made-to-order French-style Mon–Fri 9am–4:30pm; Sat–Sun crepe. Live music is also featured. 10am–5pm. Closed Thanksgiving, @ 30 min.–1 hr. In Lincoln Park, Dec 25, and Jan 1. Bus: 151. between 1750 N. Clark St. and @ Fullerton Avenue Bridge. Stockton Dr. www.chicagogreen Take advantage of a wonderful photo citymarket.org. May–Oct Wed and opportunity at the bridge that runs Sat 7am–1:30pm. Bus: 151. over the lagoon, just before you get ! = Peggy Notebaert to . Standing on the Nature Museum. This environ- south side of Fullerton, you’ll have a mental museum, built into the rise of great view of the skyline and Lincoln an ancient sand dune that was once Park (especially at sunset)—it’s the the shore of Lake Michigan, features perfect place to take a final snapshot rooftop-level walkways offering a to commemorate your day. @ 5 min. view of birds and other urban wildlife Bus: 151 or 156. below. Paths wind through gardens # ★★★ = Wrigley Field. planted with native Midwestern wild- There’s no better way to create family flowers and grasses, and trace the lore than a game at Wrigley, where shoreline of Lincoln Park’s newly your kids (or you) can stuff them- restored North Pond. The best selves with hot dogs, licorice whips, exhibit is the Butterfly Haven, and peanuts and begin their a greenhouse habitat that’s careers as future Cubs fans. home to about 25 Mid- If you are bringing kids, western species of butter- due to the noise levels flies and moths. Another and general commotion exhibit, City Science, of getting in and out of displays the inner work- the stadium, I’d recom- ings of a 3,000-square- mend this only for children foot, two-story “house,” age 7 and older. For where visitors can more on Wrigley view the pipes and The Butterfly Haven at the Peggy Notebaert Nature Museum is home Field, see p 24 and ducts that connect to many colorful species. p 132. 05_598899 ch01.qxp 2/14/06 7:38 PM Page 18

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r e Dr. M Subway/El stop D N r 0 0.25 km . 19 The Best in Three Days In 3432. www.architecture. - Chicago ArchiCenter. ★★★ 312/922 30 min. 224 S. Michigan Ave. 30 min. 224 S. Michigan Ave. Orange, or Purple line to Randolph, or or Purple line to Randolph, Orange, Red Line to Washington/State. people and buildings that shaped look, and a searchable the city’s and informa- database with pictures best- tion on many of Chicago’s The best gift skyscrapers. known architecture- shop in the city offers acces- books, decorative focused sories, and gifts. “Architecture information provide ambassadors” tours. of available on a wide range @ y 2 Founda- The Chicago Architecture shop and tour center is tion’s appreci- intended to help everyone main claim to fame. ate the city’s Exhibits include a scale model of of the Chicago, profiles downtown org. Free admission. Exhibits daily Free org. 9:30am–4pm; shop and tour desk Mon–Sat 9am–6:30pm, Sun 9am– 6pm. El: Red Line to Jackson. The exquisite interior and Tiffany Dome interior and Tiffany The exquisite Center. of the Chicago Cultural Chicago Cultural Center, corner of Center, Chicago Cultural START:

6630. www.cityofchicago. - Chicago Cultural Center. Chicago Cultural 30 min. 78 E. Washington St. 30 min. 78 E. Washington

n your third day in Chicago, stroll the “Michigan Avenue the “Michigan stroll in Chicago, third day n your buildings. grand of imposing wall its for Cliff,” known @ ★★ 312/744 O expanse that comprises one of the most impressive collections that comprises one of the most impressive expanse of museums in the country. Street. El: Randolph or and Washington South Michigan Avenue El station. Washington/State warmer months, stop in and stand in the refreshing spray stand in the refreshing and Park in Grant months, stop warmer a green to , then head Fountain, of Buckingham org/exploringchicago. Free admission. Free org/exploringchicago. 10am–7pm; Fri 10am– Mon–Thurs 6pm; Sat 10am–5pm; Sun 11am–5pm. Green, El: Brown, Closed holidays. day. day. y Bradley Hall’s majestic $35-million Hall’s Bradley stained-glass dome, deco- Tiffany with symbols of the zodiac, rated of its which is said to be the largest Center The Cultural kind in the world. houses one of the Chicago Office of which main visitor centers, Tourism’s it an ideal place to startmakes your National Historic Landmark’s basic National Historic Landmark’s Beaux Arts exterior doesn’t begin to sumptuous in- hint at the building’s marble; find rare Inside you’ll terior. glass; stained fine hardwoods; and mosaics of Favrile polished brass; stone, and mother-of- glass, colored pearl inlaid in white marble. The centerpiece is the Preston crowning 1 this library, Built in 1897 as the city’s architecture. Stop off at the Chicago ArchiCenter for Stop off at the Chicago ArchiCenter and the city’s on guided tours information 05_598899 ch01.qxp 2/14/06 7:38 PM Page 19 Page PM 7:38 2/14/06 ch01.qxp 05_598899 O

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20 ornament atop its pyramidal peak. The venerable Encyclopaedia Britan- nica, the oldest continuously pub- lished reference work in the English language, has been headquartered in Chicago since the mid-1930s. @ 5 min. 310 S. Michigan Ave. y 312/ Full-Day Tours Full-Day 347-7159. El: Red Line to Jackson. 5 The Fine Arts Building. This 1885 building was originally a show- room for Studebaker carriages. Con- The Best verted into an arts center in 1898, the building provided offices and studios for the likes of Wizard of Oz author L. Frank Baum and Frank Lloyd Wright. Take a quick walk through the marble-and-wood lobby, and, if you like, ride the vintage ele- vators to the top floor to view walls of spectacular murals that date from the building’s conversion. @ 30 min. 410 S. Michigan Ave. y 312/ 427-7602. Free admission. Daily 7am–10pm. El: Brown Line to Library.

Scenic Lake Shore Drive offers marvelous views of Lake Michigan (see p 90).

The distinctive Britannica Centre is best known for its pyramidal peak.

3 Corner Bakery, a casual restaurant and bakery, offers sweet treats (don’t miss the tart lemon bars dusted with powdered sugar), plus a range of substantial salads and sandwiches (try the ham and Swiss on pretzel bread). 224 S. Michigan Ave. y 312/431-7600. $.

4 Britannica Centre. To view this building’s highlight, look up. A part of Michigan Avenue’s distinc- tive wall of buildings since 1924, Britannica Centre, originally known as the Straus Building and then as the Continental National Insurance Company building, is known for the glass, blue-lighted “beehive” 05_598899 ch01.qxp 2/14/06 7:38 PM Page 21

21 The Best centerpiece—the starting point for the famous Route 66 to Los Angeles— is constructed of pink marble and patterned after the Latona Foun- tain at Versailles (although Bucking- in Three Days ham is twice its size). The fountain, donated to the city of Chicago by philanthropist Kate Buckingham, first opened in 1927. From April through October, the fountain spurts columns of water up to 150 feet in the air every hour on the hour; beginning at 4pm, a whirl of colored lights and music makes for quite a show (the fountain shuts down at 11pm). If you visit in spring, be sure to stroll the adjacent esplanades and their lovely rose gardens. @ 10 min. Inside Grant Park, at Columbus Dr. and Congress Pkwy. www.chicagoparkdistrict.com. Apr–Oct daily 10am–11pm. Bus: 6 or 146. The Auditorium Building and Theatre fea- 8 ★★★ = John G. Shedd tures exquisite interior ornamentation. Aquarium. The first thing you’ll see as you enter the world’s largest 6 ★ Auditorium Building and indoor aquarium is the 90,000- Theatre. Designed and built in 1889 gallon tank occupying the Beaux by Louis Sullivan and Dankmar Adler, Arts–style central rotunda. The the Auditorium was an architectural Caribbean Coral Reef exhibit wonder of its time: the heaviest and features nurse sharks, barracudas, most massive edifice on earth, the stingrays, and a hawksbill sea turtle. most fireproof building ever con- The next don’t-miss exhibit is Ama- structed, and the tallest building in zon Rising: Seasons of the River, Chicago. Today, the 4,000-seat the- displaying piranhas, birds, sloths, ater hosts touring Broadway produc- insects, spiders, snakes, caiman tions. One-hour tours on Mondays lizards, and monkeys. Wild Reef– allow visitors time to marvel at the Sharks at Shedd features 26 inter- gorgeous arched design (lit by thou- connected habitats (over 750,000 sands of bulbs) that Sullivan created gallons of water) that encompass a using his trademark ornamenta- tion—in this case, elaborate golden Catch the nightly sound and light show at stenciling and gold plaster medal- Buckingham Fountain in summer. . @ 30 min. (1 hr. if you take a tour). 50 E. Congress Pkwy. y 312/ 922-2110. www.auditoriumtheatre. org. 1-hr. guided tour Mon 10am–4pm (call y 312/431-2354 to make reser- vations). Admission $6 adults, $3 stu- dents and seniors. El: Brown Line to Library. 7 Buckingham Fountain. Grant Park’s immense baroque 05_598899 ch01.qxp2/14/067:38PMPage22

The Best Full-Day Tours 22 or 146. Day); Sat–Sun 9am–6pm.Bus:6 (until 6pmMemorialDay toLabor 2 weeks ofDec).Mon–Fri9am–5pm Mon–Tues Oct–Feb (except thelast seniors. Free admissiontoaquarium aquarium only$8adults,$6kidsand adults, $13seniors andkids3–11; Oceanarium orWildReefexhibit $17 admission toaquariumandeither adults, $15seniors andkids3–11; Access Pass (toallexhibits) $21 2438. www.sheddaquarium.org. All- scheduled performances. through theirpacesduringdaily of friendlytrainers putsdolphins Here,coastal environment. acrew that re-creates aPacific Northwest indoor marinemammalpavilion water highlight isthe3-million-gallonsalt- sharks andotherpredators. Another Philippine coral reef patrolled by 1200 S.Lake Shore Dr. John G.SheddAquarium. The Oceanarium’s Belugawhalesatthe Museum Campus. North oftheriver,Museum Campus.North utilizeunderpassesorbridgesat East Monroe, orEast Balbodrives, orbyusingtheunderpasson Grant cross Park, onlyincrosswalks atJacksonBoulevard orRandolph, and even killedattemptingtododgethetraffic onthisbusyroad. Near Drive Though Chicagoisagreat citytoexplore Lake onfoot, Shore East ChicagoAvenue, OhioStreet, Avenue. andNorth OakStreet, Oceanarium, is noplacefor pedestrians.People have been seriouslyinjured Walker’s Warning a stunning y 312/939 @ 1 hr. - at theFieldMuseumofNatural History. “Sue,” thefamous 9 hauled andare well worth alook. time, manyothers have beenover- displays here have gottenmustyover Though someofthediorama-type the World’s ColumbianExposition. collections brought toChicagofor in 1893tohousenatural history exhibits. Themuseumwas founded this renowned museum’s 9acres of inner IndianaJoneswhileexploring Natural History. ★ = Field Museumof Tyrannosaurus rex Indulge your fossil 23 The Best in Three Days - 312/922 Elevator Stairs Dining Information Bush-

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ndN Roosevelt 2–3 hr. Plants of s a imo the World Esk Dinosaur @ Hall Adventure Underground Earth Store Indians Sciences Man-Eating Lions of Man-Eating (the pair of male lions who North American (a legendary gorilla lowland Plants of the World Life Over Time Over Life The Field Museum Fossil Prep Lab Prep Fossil rth G E Moving Ea S E C N N I munched nearly 140 British railway constructing a bridge in East workers Africa in 1898). man taxidermied bodies of from the city’s Lincoln Park Zoo) and Lincoln Park the city’s from the Rd. and Lake Shore Dr. Dr. Shore Rd. and Lake 9410. www.fieldmuseum.org. Admis- 9410. www.fieldmuseum.org. and stu- sion $10 adults, $7 seniors for dents with ID, $5 kids 3–11; free in personnel armedteachers, forces Free and kids 2 and under. uniform, mid-Sept to Feb admission Mon–Tues of Dec). the last 2 weeks (except Daily 9am–5pm; last admission 4pm. Closed Dec 25 and Jan 1. Bus: 6, 10, 12, 130, or 146. Tsavo A i H R C T Store A N i M B E The Sue

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G More C H on Sue N T I R D O N F NORTH ENTRANCE NNORTH E SOUTH ENTRANCE for GRANGER GALLERY VVENDING MACHINES The Siragusa Center The Siragusa Walk Gems Nature Hall of China of Japan “Sue,” Reptiles & Amphibians The Art Lacquer E D Traveling the Traveling World of Birds World fossil ever fossil Food Court Trip Store Trip is an assemblage

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ENTRANCE Africa WEST GROUND FLOOR MAIN LEVEL UPPER LEVEL C re-creates scenes of island re-creates E , a spellbinding exhibit that , a spellbinding exhibit is the largest, most complete life in the South Pacific; there’s even there’s in the South Pacific; life a full-scale model of a Maori meeting house. Tyrannosaurus rex Tyrannosaurus unearthed. The $8.4-million speci- men is named Egypt Pacific realistically depicts scenes from realistically and other religious, Egyptian funeral, social practices. Standing proudly at the north side Standing proudly of the grand of African artifacts and provocative, multimedia presentations. interactive highlights: the other signature Two stairs to stairs the paleontologist who found it in the paleontologist who found in 1990. Head down- South Dakota Hall Field Museum of Natural History Field Museum 05_598899 ch01.qxp 2/14/06 7:38 PM Page 23 Page PM 7:38 2/14/06 ch01.qxp 05_598899 05_598899 ch01.qxp 2/14/06 7:38 PM Page 24

24 0 Chicago Hilton and Towers. This massive brick and stone building was the largest hotel in the world when it opened in 1927. It’s worth a stop to gaze at the Grand Stair lobby, done in a classical-rococo style, which is the most magnificent in the Full-Day Tours Full-Day city. @ 15 min. 720 S. Michigan Ave. (at Balbo Dr.). y 312/922-4400. www. hilton.com. El: Red Line to Harrison/ State. The Best

! Kitty O’Shea’s is one of the The massive Chicago Hilton and Towers most authentic Irish pubs in town has been a fixture in Chicago since 1927. (even though it’s a hotel bar), with imported Irish bartenders and appetite, the lamb stew, shepherd’s traditional Irish music. Pick up an pie, or fish and chips will keep you Irish/American newspaper at the feeling as if you’ve landed on the entrance, then relax with a pint in a Emerald Isle. 720 S. Michigan Ave. cozy booth. If you’ve worked up an y 312/294-6860. $.

Taking Yourself Out to a Ballgame

It’s been a long dry spell: The Cubbies haven’t made a World Series since 1945, and haven’t been World Champs since 1908, but that never deters die-hard Cubs fans, who are perennial optimists. Each April, they show up for opening day at Wrigley Field in what is almost certainly inclement weather, sure that their team’s year has arrived. (Wrigley Field, 1060 W. Addison St. y 773/404-CUBS. www.cubs. mlb.com. See p 132.) Win or lose, a day at Wrigley is a don’t-miss Chicago experience (and tickets tend to sell out accordingly). From the ivy-covered out- field walls to the hand-operated scoreboard and “W” or “L” flag announcing the outcome of the game to the unfortunates who couldn’t attend, Wrigley Field is a pure slice of Americana. Buy a hot dog and some Cracker Jack, and join in the chorus of “Take Me Out to the Ballgame” during the seventh-inning stretch (since the death of longtime announcer Harry Caray, the crowd is led by a guest singer, often a visiting celebrity). Because Wrigley Field is small, just about every seat is decent. Families, however, might want to avoid the bleacher seats, because fans there can get a little overzealous in their rooting for the home team (and drinking).