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The Power and Scale of Wild Alaska

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The Power and Scale of Wild Alaska Alaska HUMBLED BY THE POWER AND SCALE OF wild Alaska Exploring a mesmerizing icy world in southeast Alaska is an adventure of a lifetime. By Yvonne Gordon GETTY IMAGES: 80 | asta.org Alaska Humpback whale, Inside Passage; Sawyer Glacier black shape glides through the the silvery patches of the Herbert Glacier the ice. We soon come face to face with a water near us and suddenly there’s a Eagle Glaciers, part of the 1,500sq-mile huge bright white-and-blue wall — the south A pfwoossh. It’s a large whale expelling Juneau Icefield. Sawyer Glacier. air through its blowhole, which forms a Back on shore, after a thrilling trip, Suddenly, a piece of ice crashes to large cloud of vapor. The whale disappears curiosity about the glaciers leads me to book the water below with a large splash, and underwater but seconds later, its magnificent another day trip, an early-morning departure there’s a thundering rumble. Glaciers are tail rises out of the water and high in the air. bound for Tracy Arm Fjord. As we leave the constantly moving, regularly calving icebergs AND SCALE OF Then it disappears, plunging down into the dock, the water is calm and a big bank of low that float down the fjord. This explains where depths and leaving just a few ripples on clouds stretches across the hills, appearing all the icebergs we saw from the boat have the surface. black in the morning light. come from. “The tail is called a fluke, and on the As we pass Admiralty Island, our guide tells As we return to land along the Stephens underside, the markings are unique,” says us about the wildlife regularly seen here — in Passage, we spot more whales and motor Luke, our guide. the water, there are harbor seals, porpoises, towards them for a closer look. “We like We’re in a boat in Alaska’s Inside Passage, humpback whales and sea lions, and on land, seeing them. It’s a nice part of the day, a nice off the coast of the Alaskan capital, Juneau, mountain goats and bears, plus bald eagles little detail,” says our captain, Steve. and Luke Forrester, our guide and a naturalist, and sea birds such as gulls, Arctic terns and One of the most popular glaciers in is telling us about whales. Humpback whales guillemots. We pass more humpback whales Juneau is Mendenhall; I set off on a come here to feed on herring — feeding for — pods of up to eight. guided hike along the West Glacier Trail, up to 21 hours a day — and stay underwater We come to Tracy Arm Fjord, and see our starting down at Mendenhall Lake and for about 15 minutes at a time. first iceberg, a sea eagle perched on top as heading up through the Tongass National As soon as one dives, the race is on to spot if guiding the way. The sides of the fjord are Forest. One of our guides, Eric, explains the next and reach it before it disappears. The lined with forests, and we marvel at hanging how the forest is just 125 years old, having noise of the big puffs and the clouds of vapor glaciers and waterfalls, even spotting a black sprouted as the glacier receded. The first in the air signal where the whales are. bear on the shore. trees to grow were sitka alder, then spruce. We leave Juneau and motor out through The forest turns to rock face the further We walk along a narrow trail through the Auke Bay and find ourselves suddenly along the fjord we go and icebergs become forest and over bridges with rushing, noisy IMAGES: GETTY IMAGES: surrounded by mountains. On one side are more frequent until we're crunching through streams below. ▶ ASTAnetwork | Fall 2017 | 81 Alaska The ground is soft and the light is two large canoes. With each of us armed subdued, shaded by the trees. Some rocks with a large wooden paddle, we canoe are covered with green moss. At times, the across the lake, passing Nugget Falls and a trail heads up steep hills, with handrails for monstrous iceberg along the way. After an support. The guides take many photos, freeing hour of paddling, we pull up at a small silty us from the distraction of documenting the beach next to the glacier. whole thing. We put on our crampons and set off across Eric explains all about the forest, the the ice; the guides pointing out crevasses different phases of growth, and how the land and patches of blue, caused by compressed here is rising up between a quarter and a snow within the glacial ice. We also see Sample half of an inch a year, without the immense vertical shafts, called moulins. weight of a glacier bearing down on it. As the The highlight of the day comes as Viking Travel has five nights glacier recedes, more vegetation grows and we reach the ice cave under the glacier. in Juneau, including airport or this brings more animals. We meet a deer on Inside, the walls are smooth and glossy, port transfers, four nights’ hotel the trail, and I notice Eric is carrying a large with bubbles of blue and white ice. The accommodation in downtown can of bear spray — just in case. sound of rushing water outside reminds Juneau, a full-day Tracy Arm boat After three hours of mostly uphill walking, us how fast the glacier is melting and trip, guided Mendenhall Glacier our hard work is rewarded. The views over how dangerous it is to be here — glaciers hike and half-day whale-watching the expanse of ice are incredible, taking in are constantly on the move and ice caves cruise, from $1,200 per person, the mountains and Mendenhall Lake. From can collapse at any time, a danger our based on two sharing. Viking Travel our perch, around 700ft up, we can see a guides have made us aware of before also specializes in ferry trips on group of people walking on the glacier; they setting out, adding to the the Alaska Marine Highway. look like tiny dots. adrenaline rush. alaskaferry.com After seeing glaciers from a boat, and then As we walk back to the canoe, I look from above on a hike, my final adventure in up to the mountain I hiked the day before southeast Alaska turns out to be the most and realize that after seeing a glacier far Selling tips fascinating encounter of all — a trip by off in the distance, seeing one from a boat, canoe to walk on Mendenhall Glacier. and hiking up the side of one, I've finally, Talk up the range of adventures: We're kitted out at the tour company’s become one of those tiny dots on a glacier — There’s something for all levels and base before driving to Mendenhall Lake, reduced to a mere speck by the power and tastes, whether clients want to take IMAGES: GETTY IMAGES: where our dozen-strong group is put into scale of wild Alaska. a leisurely boat trip on the Inside Passage, or get out into a kayak or onto a hiking trail or glacier. Other adventures include flightseeing tours, helicopter tours with glacier landings, glacier dog-sled rides and gold-panning. Sell the wildlife: There are opportunities to view everything from deer and bears to sea lions, porpoises and whales, all in their natural habitats. Sell the wilderness: Although Juneau is the state capital, it’s a small city, set between Mount Juneau, Mount Roberts and the Gastineau Channel, so there are lots of opportunities to get away from the city be in unspoilt nature and remote settings, even if it's just for a few hours. Promote the adventure involved in getting there: You can’t reach From top: Coast Mountains reflected Juneau by road, so people can in a pond, Tongass National Forest; travel there by airplane, floatplane, meltwater, Mendenhall Glacier by ship, or by ferry along the Alaska Marine Highway. ASTAnetwork | Fall 2017 | 83.
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