GWEN’S MOBILE LATEST LOOK DIEGO DELLA VALLE UNVEILS A NEW STORE CONCEPT BACK REPORT CARD FOR TOD’S ON MADISON AVENUE. PAGE 4 GWEN STEFANI TALKS ABOUT A NEW STUDY RANKS HER LABEL L.A.M.B.’S RETURN TO NEW YORK BRANDS BY THEIR APTITUDE IN FASHION WEEK. PAGE 6 MOBILE COMMERCE. PAGE 6

EXCLUSIVE Jason Wu Sells Majority Stake

By EVAN CLARK

NEW YORK — Jason Wu sold a controlling stake in his business to InterLuxe — a new investment fi rm that leans on the fashion expertise of Gary Wassner FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 2014 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY and Allen Questrom. WWD The designer, who unveils his spring collection on the runway today, plans to use the new funds to open a fl agship and expand his budding e-commerce and handbag businesses. InterLuxe is backed by Lee Equity and chaired by Gary Wassner, who supports much of the New York designer community as co-chief executive offi cer of the factoring fi rm Hilldun. A ceo with a fashion back- ground is expected to be named today. Although neither Wu nor Wassner disclosed the terms of the deal, a source familiar with the transaction said the investment house bought control of the fi rm, Off beat which has revenues in the neighborhood of $20 million. InterLuxe is one of a growing number of investors targeting designer businesses, trying to both build up brands and catch a little of the lightning that has SPRING 2015 driven the likes of Michael Kors Holdings Ltd. and Ease Tory Burch to multibillion-dollar valuations. Clifford Shane Gabier and NEW YORK Moskowitz, who has a background in private equity, Chris Peters showed a serves as InterLuxe’s president. COLLECTIONS Investors are largely looking for brands that have Creatures of the Wind established businesses and solid name recognition, collection that was at but plenty of room to grow. Wu, who shot to global prominence when First Lady once beautiful, interesting Michelle Obama wore his white gown to President and relaxed, infused with that intellectual Obama’s fi rst inauguration ball, fi ts that profi le. chic the duo is known for. Here, In an interview between fi ttings at his studio Thursday, the 31-year-old Wu said, “I don’t know if I should feel their gingham tank worn with a fully good that people call me a young designer or not so good embroidered skirt. For more on New York now….It’s a young business. I’m not a young designer.” Fashion Week, see pages 8 and 9. Wu started his business eight years ago and described Wassner as “my fi rst supporter.” SEE PAGE 16 Andrew Rosen Talks Theory’s Next Phase

By LISA LOCKWOOD

ANDREW ROSEN has hit the refresh button. Theory, the contemporary brand he cofounded that is approaching $1 billion in global sales, is looking to sharp- en its sportswear offerings in the wake of the departure in June of Olivier Theyskens, who served as artistic di- rector. The company has rehired Lisa Kulson, former vice president and head designer of Theory who left in 2001, returned in 2012 as a consultant and was named creative director of women’s design this past spring. “The time to refresh and go to the next level is now,” said Rosen, the fi rm’s chief executive offi cer who cofounded Theory with Elie Tahari in 1997. “The world has changed so much. You think about the re- tail landscape and how the customer is changing and her reaction to things. What turns her on now? It’s a very different world. Companies like ourselves are very different today than we were fi ve years ago.” Rosen has always been a product person, fi rst and foremost, and he admitted that the company got stale. “What we’re looking to do is not lose the integrity of what the company stands for or the aesthetic of the company, but to continue to evolve our methodology of doing business,” he said. “We need to sharpen some of the things that we’ve gotten stale with. It’s things that I would notice. I really want to sharpen up.” While Theory is known for being one of the fi rst to inhabit the contemporary arena — which today has become oversaturated with brands — Rosen still be- lieves strongly in the sector, pointing to the energy of PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE SEE PAGE 17 2 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 2014

David Yurman Sues Sam’s Club THE BRIEFING BOX The court document also alleged that the defen- IN TODAY’S WWD By VICKI M. YOUNG dant induced one or more of Yurman’s authorized retailers to sell the products to Sam’s Club in viola- NEW YORK — David Yurman Enterprises and David tion of their authorized retailer agreements. In the Yurman IP LLC on Thursday sued Sam’s East Inc. and industry, the unauthorized practice is sometimes Sam’s West Inc., which operate as Wal-Mart Stores referred to as “transshipping.” Inc.’s Sam’s Club, in a federal district court in Houston. The company is seeking injunctive relief to The lawsuit alleges trademark infringement, bar Sam’s Club from selling the alleged infringing false designation of origin, tortious interference product as well as unspecified damages and related with Yurman’s contractual relations and unfair legal costs, such as attorney’s fees. competition in connection with the sale of David “Our company very carefully controls the retail Yurman-branded jewelry. distribution of our merchandise to ensure that David In the complaint, Yurman charged the member- Yurman jewelry and timepieces are available at only ship warehouse club with “wrongful, unauthorized the finest jewelry and department stores, consistent promotion and sale” of the infringing items in sev- with the image and goodwill of the David Yurman eral locations in Texas, other stores throughout the brand that our founders, the Yurmans, have worked U.S. and through its Web site. The legal document so hard over the years to build,” said Phillips Nazro, said a concern was that the sale of the alleged in- David Yurman’s vice president and general counsel. fringing jewelry “suggests” that Sam’s Club is au- A spokeswoman for Wal-Mart commented, “We Backstage at the Creatures of the thorized by Yurman to sell the merchandise, when have protocols in place to provide our members with Wind show. For more from New JENNA GREENE “Yurman has in fact never provided Sam’s Club authentic, high-quality products. We believe those York Fashion Week, see WWD.com.

with permission to do so.” It also noted a concern protocols were followed in this instance. We will re- PHOTO BY about the customer experience, saying the “exclu- view the complaint and respond appropriately.” sive network of authorized retailers” receive spe- Wal-Mart owns Sam’s West Inc. It’s that entity cialized training regarding the products and the and its subsidiary Sam’s East that does business as Jason Wu sold a stake in his company to InterLuxe, a new manner in which they are displayed. Sam’s Club. investment firm chaired by Gary Wassner. PAGE 1

Theory is looking to sharpen its sportswear offerings in the wake of the departure in June of Olivier Theyskens. PAGE 1 Second-Quarter Income Drops at J. Crew Tod’s newly redesigned Madison Avenue boutique will “due to increased markdowns, ment continues to be challenging, officially be inaugurated with an event on Monday. PAGE 4 By ARNOLD J. KARR and accounted for the majority of traffic continues to be a head- gross margin deterioration.” wind. We’re not immune to that Nicolas Ghesquière has conceived a Paris pop-up space to J. CREW GROUP Inc.’s second- Even with an aggressive mark- factor.” Promotions remain in a showcase his first Louis Vuitton women’s collection. PAGE 4 quarter profits fell despite a dou- down posture, J. Crew finished the “heightened situation,” he said. ble-digit gain in revenues as the quarter with inventories of $394.7 Haselden noted that the Gwen Stefani previews the L.A.M.B. collection she will show in retailer resorted to heavy promo- million, 22.9 percent higher than Madewell division, currently at 76 PAGE 6 tions to reduce high inventories, the year-ago level of $321.2 mil- units, would expand by 20 stores New York and discusses her new role on “The Voice.” with only limited success. lion, although up about half as this year, its largest annual in- In the three months ended much — about 12 percent — on a crease. “We feel good about the Motorola is breaking into the wearables market today with the PAGE 6 Aug. 2, net income dropped 38.2 per-square-foot basis, the cfo said. way Madewell’s performing,” he launch of the Moto 360 smartwatch. percent to $10.8 million from While still committed to “the said. “We see the same headwinds $17.5 million in the year-ago goal of reaching a position by the at Madewell but we’ve been able to Carine Roitfeld discusses her magazine, CR Fashion Book, as quarter. Adjusted earnings be- end of the year where our inven- manage through them effectively.” well as working for Condé Nast and Hearst. PAGE 10 fore interest, taxes, depreciation tories are more in line with our The company put $35 million and amortization declined less, sales trend,” Haselden pointed into capital expenditures during Charlie Hunnam is the face of the newest addition to the falling 18.6 percent to $67.6 mil- out that its current stocks were the second quarter and expects Calvin Klein fragrances portfolio, Reveal Men. PAGE 12 lion from $83 million. less dated than a year ago. “It’s the year-end total to be between Revenues rose 12.2 percent to important to point out that we $140 million and $150 million, in- Deborah Lippmann is teaming with Barneys New York to offer $627.2 million from $559.1 mil- have less spring and summer in- cluding about 55 store openings in an exclusive permanent collection for the retailer. PAGE 12 lion, with store sales up 11.1 per- ventory on both a dollar basis total, information technology en- cent to $443.5 million and direct and as a percent of total currently hancements, store renovations and Moschino Cheap and Chic is introducing a new fragrance, sales ahead 14.4 million to $173.6 versus the same point last year…. corporate office improvements. Stars, that launches in Italy at the end of the month. PAGE 14 million. Comparable sales were It’s just a matter of the amount we In the first six months, J. Crew up 4 percent versus a 1 percent have versus the sales trend, which registered a net loss of $19.3 mil- Comedian Joan Rivers, who had a second career as a fashion has produced the product margin lion versus net income of $46.8 decline in the 2013 period. critic on the red carpet, died Thursday at age 81. PAGE 18 But the company suffered pressure that we’ve talked about million a year ago. The 2014 loss through margin erosion, with over the first half of the year.” includes a $58.8 million pretax Sarah Rutson, Lane Crawford’s longtime fashion director, is gross margin down 340 basis He expressed confidence that loss on refinancing. Revenues PAGE 19 points to 37.7 percent of sales pressure would “begin to moderate” grew 8.5 percent to $1.22 billion headed to Net-a-porter in New York. from 41.1 percent a year ago. On during the second half of the year, from $1.12 billion in the first half a conference call late Thursday particularly if the anticipated eas- of 2013. Gross margin declined to Anastasia Iafrate, a Kent State University graduate, won afternoon to discuss the results, ing of some product costs transpires. 38.2 percent of sales from 42.9 per- the annual Supima Design Competition. PAGE 19 Stuart Haselden, chief financial Haselden declined to discuss cent in the first half of last year. officer, said J. Crew’s merchandise results so far in the third quarter, — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS ON WWD.COM margin was down 360 basis points but allowed that “the environ- FROM DAVID MOIN BACKSTAGE BEAUTY: The beauty looks backstage at Creatures of Chou and Stroll to Sell Remaining Stake in Kors the Wind were effortless and undone. For more, see WWD.com. SILAS CHOU AND Lawrence Stroll are about to ing 47.2 million shares and raising $944 million. exit the Michael Kors business. Stroll and Chou sold about $519 million worth of FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA Michael Kors Holdings Ltd. has filed a shelf reg- stock combined, while Kors sold about $117 mil- @ WWD.com/social istration to sell slightly over 11.6 million shares of lion worth of stock. Shortly before the IPO, the common stock in a secondary public offering that owners sold another $500 million stake in a pri- TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. would have Chou and Stroll resign from the Kors vate sale to mutual fund firms such as Fidelity WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. board upon the closing date of the offering. and T. Rowe Price. COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD FASHION MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Thursday’s filing with the Securities and Following the IPO, Chou and Stroll owned rough- VOLUME 208, NO. 48. FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 2014. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, April, May, June, August, October, November and December, and Exchange Commission said the selling share- ly 38 percent of Kors. The two have gradually re- two additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Media, which is a division of Advance Magazine holder is Sportswear Holdings Ltd., one of Kors’ duced their stake in Kors through different invest- Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast: S.I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, Chief Executive Officer; Robert A. Sauerberg Jr., President; John W. Bellando, principal founding shareholders. According ment vehicles, including Sportswear Holdings. Chief Operating Officer & Chief Financial Officer; Jill Bright, Chief Administrative Officer. Periodicals postage paid at New York, to the filing, Sportswear is indirectly owned In a January filing with the SEC, Chou and Stroll NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P. O . Box 503, RPO West by Westleigh Ltd., which is privately owned by beneficially owned 11.6 million shares, or 5.7 per- Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P. O . Box 6356, members of the Chao family, including Chou, and cent of the total shares outstanding. The sale fol- Harlan, IA 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTION, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P. O . Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593, call 866-401-7801, or email customer service at wwdPrint@cdsfulfillment.com. 50 percent owned by Flair Investment Holdings lowing the secondary offering essentially liquidates Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address Ltd, of which Stroll has an indirect beneficial their holdings in the company, hence their resigna- changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. ownership interest. tion from the board. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with The Kors company will not receive any proceeds Chou and Stroll, who have invested together for your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be from the sale. Following the resignation of Stroll years, were responsible for taking public, in 1992, mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax the request and Chou, Kors will have seven board members, Tommy Hilfiger’s business, which eventually was to 212-630-5883. For reprints, please e-mail [email protected] or call Wright’s Media 877-652-5295. For reuse five of whom are classified as independent. taken private in a sale to Apax Partners. Apax sub- permissions, please e-mail [email protected] or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild Fashion Media magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. The designer Michael Kors began his business sequently sold the company to PVH Corp. Occasionally we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we more than 30 years ago. After a bankruptcy in the Shares of Kors closed up 1.6 percent, to $79.97, believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P. O . Box 6356, Harlan, IA 51593 or call 866-401-7801. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS O F, OR FOR early Nineties, Kors sold the business to Chou in Big Board trading on Thursday. DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED and Stroll in 2003 for a reported $100 million. The The sale of the 11.6 million shares at Thursday’s TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, company grew at a fast pace, and, in December closing price would net $930 million, excluding costs UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. 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OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. ©2014 Maybelline LLC. 4 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 2014 WWD.COM Tod’s Unveils New-Look Flagship on Madison Ave. building’s lobby, which is adja- the U.S. and I have three grand- By LUISA ZARGANI cent to the store. children born there that could Where once the window dis- potentially become possible “THIS IS THE temple of luxu- plays let natural light into the presidents,” he quipped. ry and of Italian quality,” said store, the street view is now Last year, Tod’s SpA sales Diego Della Valle, chairman largely closed off to shoppers, in the U.S. totaled 90.3 million and chief executive officer giving the store a more private, euros, or $120 million at average of Tod’s SpA, describing the exclusive feel. exchange rates, climbing 10.5 newly redesigned Tod’s bou- Della Valle declined to pro- percent compared with 2012. tique at 650 Madison Avenue in vide the amount invested or At constant exchange, revenues Manhattan, which will quietly sales forecasts. “It’s an invest- would have risen 13.1 percent. open its doors on Sunday and ment in line with a four-star The Italian group, which also be officially inaugurated with flagship and we expect a strong comprises the Hogan, Fay and an event on Monday evening. return, also in terms of image. Roger Vivier brands, closed 2013 The store features a new And it’s added service to our with sales of 967.5 million euros, concept for Tod’s, and Della STEPHEN SULLIVAN customers,” he said. or $1.27 billion. Valle underscored that, going The men’s area at Tod’s on Madison Avenue. Della Valle has long been a There are currently eight forward, the strategy is for each fan of America and the brand Tod’s stores in the U.S. During a flagship to have its own identity. PHOTOS BY store walk-through on Thursday, “We want to avoid the same- Italian, the leather is especially Roberto Lorenzini, Tod’s ceo The store offers an extensive ness — the boredom of seeing treated and recognizable, in line for North America, said that selection of women’s ready-to-wear. stores that are alike all over the with our product. there are three additional units world, wherever you are,” he ex- “That part of Madison in the works for the first half of plained. “The ingredients, the Avenue is perhaps the best loca- next year: Atlanta on Buckhead materials and colors will funda- tion in the U.S. in terms of traf- Avenue Northeast, Houston at mentally be the same, but with a fic and elegance,” he added of Houston Galleria and Miami in different interpretation depend- the strip between 57th and 70th the Design District. ing on the location.” streets. Tod’s is located between “Americans have always First opened in 1999, the 59th and 60th streets. been big shoe buyers, and they Madison Avenue store has been Della Valle said he wanted are increasingly appreciative given a complete makeover. the store to have a warm and of our offer of leather goods. It now makes a statement for welcoming feeling, as if custom- Their only request is not to Tod’s evolution from a luxury ers were walking into a private change our quality and style,” footwear and leather goods home. “The idea is to do away Lorenzini said. brand to a lifestyle collection with the frenzy as the customer Della Valle, Facchinetti and replete with women’s wear by approaches shopping,” he said. Incontri will be in town for Alessandra Facchinetti and “They can come in, take a look Monday’s celebration, which men’s by Andrea Incontri. around, look at beautiful things, will be followed by a private The interior look, developed taking their time and enjoying it.” dinner. To mark the opening, with an in-house team, signals an The interiors are defined by a diamond design — an element is well established in the U.S. Tod’s will offer several special enhanced sense of luxury com- portals in black stone; boiserie reminiscent of Tod’s Milan pala- “This is a country that knows limited-edition items, includ- pared with its previous iteration. walls flank those in light leather zzo — and are also reflected in luxury. Beyond any momentary ing a reinterpretation of the “This unit is appropriate for — a distinctive element of Tod’s the marble floor of the flagship’s setback, Americans recognize brand’s iconic styles re-created the city, the street and the coun- — and those in gray lacquered entry room. quality. It’s a market that we for the New York boutique, in- try,” said Della Valle. “It’s sort of wood or sophisticated gray stone. At 3,500 square feet, the store want to continue to keep in con- cluding the Gommino shoe and an Italian palazzo. We wanted to Black stone fireplaces and leath- has about 20 percent more sell- sideration. It’s a country that the Script bag. blend the DNA of the brand and er sofas contrast with steel and ing space than before, the result made me dream when I was a — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS the Italian style. Materials are all marble fixtures. Carpets feature of the reconfiguration of the kid. My son [Emanuele] lives in FROM MARC KARIMZADEH Ghesquière’s Vuitton Pop-Up LVMH Settles Case With Google

PARIS — Another day, another LVMH French civil law, urging that Google By MILES SOCHA cease-fire. should be held liable for allowing The French luxury giant said advertisers to buy keywords corre- PARIS — Nicolas Ghesquière, Thursday it has ended its legal dis- sponding to registered trademarks who created arty, otherworldly pute with Google and instead signed such as Vuitton. The court referred boutiques during his Balenciaga an agreement in which both parties the long-running case to the Paris years, has conceived a pop-up committed to “further enhance their Court of Appeal to rule on jurisdic- space here to showcase his first current extensive resources to tackle tion and to determine if the online Louis Vuitton women’s collection. the advertising and sale of counterfeit search giant committed any wrongdo- Attached to Vuitton’s bou- goods online.” ing to the detriment of the maker of tique in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, In a joint statement, the parties said luxury leather goods. the temporary shop opened this they would focus on “opportunities to In 2006, the Paris Central Court week in a space previously oc- innovate and enhance the digital experi- ordered Google to pay LVMH 300,000 cupied by the landmark La Hune ence of their customers.” euros, or $443,859 at average exchange bookstore, now appointed with The news came a day after LVMH rates for the period, for trademark in- Seventies furnishings and fix- Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton said it fringement. tures. Accessories resting on had mended its relations with Hermès LVMH also recently settled an eight- chunks of marble that bobble International by distributing its 23.2 year battle over fake and gray-market when touched. percent stake in the firm to LVMH luxury goods with auction site eBay. While less futuristic than his shareholders, as reported. In July, the two companies unveiled previous retail concepts, the Google, owner of the most-used “a cooperative effort to protect intel- corner unit features signature Internet search engine, and LVMH lectual property rights and combat Ghesquière touches, including have been fighting in France since counterfeits in online commerce,” put- small, tubular spotlights crowded 2003 over Internet searches linked ting an end to ongoing litigation. on the ceiling. Ready-to- to trademark names. It is understood In 2008, a French court ordered “I’m so happy I was able to wear is styled links to sellers of counterfeit Louis eBay to pay a compensation of 38.9 mil- develop a first pop-up store for on headless Vuitton and Dior bags were the most lion euros, or $52.7 million at current the Louis Vuitton house in such mannequins next DOMINIQUE MAÎTRE problematic. exchange, to LVMH, the highest fine an iconic location in Paris,” to a lamp by Pierre Godé, vice president of ever awarded against it in Europe for Ghesquière said. “It’s always Pallucco Fortuny. LVMH, said the agreement with Google allowing the sale of counterfeit goods very stimulating to follow my vi- PHOTOS BY “paves the way for greater cooperation and for the unlawful sales of authentic sion through to the design of the toward a safer and more engaging digi- fragrances between 2001 and 2006. retail space.” To heighten the chic Parisian mood, tal environment” in which “brands will A series of minor court cases fol- The vintage shelves and seating, in- the French designer employed pale pil- be protected both online and offline.” lowed, until a French appeals court de- cluding circa 1971 Perspex chairs by Boris lars and chalky walls that echo the stone Carlo D’Asaro Biondo, Google’s cided to reduce the original amount of Tabacoff and a 1969 hulking white marble facade, restored to its Haussmannian- president of Southern and Eastern 38.9 million euros to 5.7 million euros, table by Carlo Scarpa, serve as the back- era glory. Europe, Middle East and Africa opera- or $7.7 million, in 2010. Then, in 2012, drop for Ghesquière’s retro-tinged fash- The raw marble sculptures, resting tions, added that the two companies another court ruled that although ions, such as dresses and skirts cut in crisp on thin steel posts and titled “Dancing would “work together to tackle the ad- the lower court had been right to de- A-lines, some detailed with big contrasting Stones,” are by Belgian artist Gerard vertising of counterfeit goods online” cide eBay’s liability on its French and pockets or bold zippers. Kuijpers and stationed in the tall windows and engage its “engineering, product British Web sites, it did not have juris- It marks the debut of ready-to-wear at in full view of the crowds whisking be- and sales teams.” diction over eBay’s U.S. site. the Left Bank location. tween the Café de Flore and a newsstand. LVMH had sought recourse under — M.S. ©2014 Target Brands, Inc. The Bullseye Design is a registered trademark of Target Brands, Inc. 094310 trademark of Target Brands, Inc. The Bullseye Design is a registered ©2014 Target

September 14

Select stores, Target.com, and globally at NET-A-PORTER.COM 6 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 2014 WWD.COM Stefani Talks L.A.M.B.’s N.Y. Fashion Week Return and-white-with-a-pop-of color look. that’s simple but still great is one of the By MARCY MEDINA The 90-piece spring collection, dubbed biggest challenges,” Stefani said. “The New Nomad,” takes those tried-and- Her new style was evident at last LOS ANGELES — A few days before she true themes into more streamlined and month’s MTV Video Music Awards, where boarded a plane to New York to present colorful territory. “My life is so full of color she wore a pink-and-black Mod-style en- her spring L.A.M.B. collection, Gwen and so rich right now, and this reflects that, semble created by Flannery, and at the

Stefani was perched in a trailer parked with hot pink, hot orange and even some outside an industrial photo studio in aqua,” she said of the painterly prints and downtown Los Angeles. The multitask- batik-style patterns. “I’m really into pink ing multihyphenate was taking a break right now, which is weird because I did from overseeing the collection’s look pink back in the day with my hair. Each book shoot to feed her six-month-old time I’m cocooned, each time I transform son, Apollo. into a new chapter, I do pink — when I “He’s so awesome. He’s always like turned 30, when I got married and now that,” she said of her son, sitting up on his this. Oh, my gosh, it’s true! That was nanny’s lap and politely keeping the noise not intentional. I just figured it out level down for the interview. “I don’t have right now. I love when stuff lines up to tell him anything. He has a good in- like that,” she gasped. stinct. He even knows when to smile.” ’’ Clearly the stars are aligned for Apollo was partly the reason that Stefani, who will make her debut Stefani chose to sit out New York as a new coach, along with Pharrell Fashion Week for the past three years, Williams, on Season 7 of “The but L.A.M.B.’s return coincides with Voice” on Sept. 22. a milestone for her two older boys, “It’s all coming together and Kingston and Zuma. what’s so weird is that none of it was “I have all these children who start planned. I literally put a new No school the same week. So I’m going to Doubt record out, then all of a sud- drop them off for their first day, pick den I got pregnant. I was like, ‘What? A sketch of a jacket SARDELLA them up, take them for frozen yogurt, Now I’m going to be pregnant? This from L.A.M.B. then go to New York. They’re old enough is crazy,’ ” she said. “So I just decid- to understand now, but I do feel guilty. DONATO ed I was going to really work on my BY I’m not going to lie,” said Stefani, whose brands [in addition to L.A.M.B. there’s

New York presentation is today at PHOTO Harajuku Lovers, DWP and Gx] and be Emmy Awards, where she donned an ArtBeam from 5 to 7 p.m. pregnant and just chill. I had just had the Atelier Versace chain mail top and skirt. Stefani was determined to return to baby when ‘The Voice’ called. Luckily I But her biggest style stage yet will be the the tents this season: “I had said a year My life is so full of color had been working so hard in the downtime NBC vocal competition show. ago, ‘We are doing fashion week. I don’t on the brands that it was perfect timing.” “I started getting overwhelmed, like, care what happens.’ The reason you Stefani has teamed up with stylist ‘I’ve got to bring it,’ because I’m the only even do a line is to wear the clothes, but and so rich right now, Petra Flannery, whom she first met when girl [alongside Williams, Adam Levine also to show it. For me, I love the the- Flannery assisted Stefani’s longtime and Blake Shelton], and it’s a whole ater of it.” and this [collection] stylist Andrea Lieberman over a decade other level I’ve never been at before L.A.M.B., which celebrated its 10th ago, to create a sleek new look for the because [the show] is so huge,” Stefani anniversary this year, has always been a reflects that. network show. “[Petra] brings a really said. “And the L.A.M.B. show has surpris- personal project for Stefani, who infuses chic sophistication. I think I was a little es I’m not even gonna tell you about. It’s each season with ethnic influences such — GWEN STEFANI more theatrical-kooky and now I’m a lit- gonna be like, ‘Bam! Yo u thought I was as tribal prints and her favorite black- tle more streamlined. Making something doing that? Look, I’m doing this, too!’ ” Rating Brands’ Mobile Sites Motorola Enters Wearables of the parameters — like Abercrombie MOTOROLA IS breaking into the want to wear all day. A square or rect- By RACHEL STRUGATZ & Fitch, Adidas, Banana Republic, Gap, wearables market today with the angular display always ends up look- Guess, H&M, J. Crew, Nine West, Ralph launch of the Moto 360 smartwatch, ing like a gadget,” Isaacs said of the TIFFANY & CO., Victoria’s Secret, The Lauren, Ray-Ban, Louis Vuitton, Levi’s and billed by the company as a modern multiple watch designs and function- North Face and Pink are winning in the ap- Under Armour. timepiece that, needless to say, is al prototypes that were tried before parel and accessories mobile space. But some major players are still hold- very technologically advanced. the final product was created. “It’s According to “Fashion on Phones,” ing out. Like most other smartwatches been a multiyear journey for us.” a study conducted by the Interactive Of the 17 percent who have yet to adapt on the market, the device con- Two colorways go on sale today: Advertising Bureau, 83 percent of the to the increasingly ’’mobile consumer, nects to the wearer’s mobile de- a dark metal face with a black brands ranked by WWD’s list of Top 100 brands like DKNY, Reebok and Versace vice, displaying content such as Brands have mobile optimized sites. still don’t have mobile sites. American calendar notifications and text Motorola’s Moto 360 smartwatch. Of the 100 brands, the above four Apparel is also on this list, but the four messages and even giving direc- were the only ones to receive a perfect brands with the lowest rating (no mobile tions to a particular destination. “M-score,” based on a series of metrics site or mobile-friendly tools) were Joe Much of the functionality is acti- such as whether or not a site had a store Boxer, London Fog, Casio and Candie’s. vated by just talking to the watch, locator, tap-to-call phone numbers, opti- “Just building a mobile Web site is great according to Dickon Isaacs, de- mized search, a link to the expanded desk- but it’s clearly not enough. Some compa- sign director at Motorola. For top site and a link to the app on the Apple nies are building mobile sites that are example, the wearer just has App Store (if applicable). pretty but only go skin deep,” Laszlo said. to say “Navigate to home,” and, “Just building a mobile Web site is great “Some of the brands we looked at that have over time, the watch, similar to but it’s clearly not enough,” Joe Laszlo, IAB a mobile Web site don’t return search re- Google Glass, will learn things senior director, mobile marketing center of sults that look good on a smart screen. This such as the wearer’s address excellence, told WWD of the five param- means only the homepage is optimized — and behavior patterns. eters the study used to measure success. the first page they see when they access the There is, however, a key point “Some companies are building mobile sites site on the phone.” of differentiation: The design came that are pretty, but only go skin deep…the Beyond mobile sites, data showed that before the technology. After sev- mobile Web sites don’t return search re- 47 percent of brands have iPhone apps, eral iterations of ideas, the design sults that look good on a smart screen. This 43 percent have Android apps and 26 per- team had a breakthrough. “We real- means only the homepage is optimized.” cent have iPad apps. The last number was ized that rather than designing the Anna Bager, IAB vice president and gen- surprising for Laszlo because, to him, the watch around existing technology, eral manager, mobile marketing center of iPad’s large screen is “tailor made” to we should really take a step back excellence, noted: “Eighty percent of the make clothing look good — yet only about and breathe and figure out what de- labels…have mobile-optimized Web sites — one in four brands have one. sign we think it should be,” Isaacs but 100 percent of them should have one.” Finally, just over a third — or 37 percent told WWD. The look and feel were Of the brands that do have mobile sites, — of those studied had responsive Web inspired by his trip earlier this year 35 percent still don’t offer mobile opti- design, an online experience that works to Baselworld, where he immersed mized search results and less than a quar- cross-platform without the need to build himself in the high-end segment of ter of brands with apps linked to the App a differentiated experience for a desktop, the timepiece market. Store from their mobile site. However, 85 smartphone or tablet. Along with engineers, the design leather strap and a light metal face percent of brands in this group have im- Although it’s been around for a few years, team looked at the existing technol- with a gray leather strap, both re- plemented store locator tools on their mo- Laszlo said responsive design is about to be- ogy in most wearables, which are tailing for $250 at motorola.com, bile sites, 64 percent have tappable phone come a lot more prevalent. It will force de- largely square or rectangular with Best Buy (and bestbuy.com) and numbers and almost 60 percent link to a signers to think differently about how they sharp corners. Google Play. Later this fall, Moto desktop site. are developing sites. Early adopters of re- “As much as we tried to make that versions with metal chain-link A larger group of brands maintained sponsive design are Ray-Ban, Calvin Klein, look stylish, it didn’t hit the bar of de- bracelets will go on sale for $300. mobile sites containing four out of five Converse, Swatch and Tommy Hilfiger. signing something that people would — R.S.

8 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 2014

Creatures of the Wind Coach Richard Chai Love

FOR MORE SPRING COVERAGE, SEE WWD.com/ runway.

Fashion Week got off Spring 2015 to an eclectic start with a myriad of looks, from quirky to sporty, New Yo r k Collections sexy to laid back. Creatures of the Wind: The practice The Fata Morgana concept Creatures of the Wind said with anime characters by tanks underneath and shirts of making fashion academic first showed up in a blue-and- it had dissolved its year-old artist Gary Baseman had a tied around the waists — can irritate, but somehow it’s white floral silk jacquard, partnership with The Dock charmingly awkward thrift seemed to suggest a just-don’t- endearing from the Creatures of compiled from tile patterns Group, bringing management vibe that was fresh for Coach, care, grunge attitude, but the the Wind guys. Shane Gabier and — Delft, Chinese, Northern and sales in-house while the larger aura — posh fabrics fell somewhere between Chris Peters called their spring African. It was soft and easy continuing to work with contemporary, amped up for the sporty and disco. There were collection Fata Morgana, “a type on a shirt, shirtdress and knee- its original investor, Soave runway — is likely indicative of metallics, electric colors and of superior mirage that flips and length embroidered skirt. Enterprises. much of what we’ll see on the a lot of satin. The result was a inverts objects and manifests Bolder moments came with runways this week. Enhanced total look that was less than the as distortions in the sky, as combinations of black and Coach: For his spring collection, contemporary is what much sum of its parts. unrecognizable forms,” wrote red and the contrast of sporty Coach’s Stuart Vevers said he of NYFW is all about. What Chai’s men’s portion, Gabier in an e-mail to WWD that versus decorative, as with a referenced cultlike cinema — matters is that Vevers handled expanded for spring, looked included a Wikipedia link. The gingham tank worn with a fully “Paris, Texas,” “Lost Highway,” it well, giving his clothes a stronger than the women’s idea, he explained, was to work embroidered skirt that swung “Blue Velvet” — aiming to bring personality and his customers primarily because his signature with familiar things that weren’t toward Spain. A fashion cynic something unexpected to the smart bag options including athletic and streetwear quite placeable, things you think might see a touch of Fata Prada brand. He noted “this cool girl croc-embossed cross-bodies and references were well-executed you’ve seen before but don’t in the offbeat combinations hanging out at a lost-highway studded mini satchels. and very on-trend. Bonus: Chai know where. The collection of embellishment, sportiness gas station, real America.” To broke with tradition through was beautiful, wearable and and bold color, but it was that end, he showed against a Richard Chai: It was hard to his modern use of prints, bold interesting in equal measure, only a touch within a strong, three-wall mural of a middle-of- decipher the point of view stripes and paneling elements retaining the intellectual chic diverse lineup. The collection nowhere highway. Richard Chai wanted to on shirts, shorts and jackets. while furthering the look’s was also a testament to grace “Unexpected” is a relative convey with his women’s Love And in a collaboration with modernity and sophistication. under pressure from a very term. While Vevers’ pastel collection. The styling — shirts Timberland, hiking boot- Perhaps it was a little more small company that has been pilings of furs, cheetah prints, and trenches falling off the sneaker hybrids empowered relaxed this time, too. through some major changes. and minis and tops decorated shoulders to reveal ribbed the overall look. WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 2014 9 WWD.COM

Richard Chai Duckie Tomas Maier Urban Brown Zen GEORGE CHINSEE SCOTT RUDD; ALL OTHERS BY

standout spring looks at BCBG BCBG Max Azria Max Azria captured this with an appealing simplicity. For inspiration, Lubov Azria looked to

the Color Reform dyeing process, JOHN AQUINO; URBAN ZEN BY which is used to neutralize and recolor old carpets. Indeed, many of the hues and patterns conjured up the faded charm of vintage rugs, from the pink scarf dresses MAIER AND BCBG BY that opened the show to a tank top and loose-fitting cropped pants in a pale pattern. Not every exit evoked such a

carefree attitude: Some of JIMI CELESTE; TOMAS the draped, layered and tied numbers looked cumbersome, but the designers didn’t harp on those for too long. The duo ended the show on a lovely note with a parade of languid

silk dresses in muted tones — DUCKIE BROWN BY MITRA; think California dreaming. ROBERT Tomas Maier: “Loose, casual, easy, breezy.” Those four words were how Tomas Maier Duckie Brown: Where have they succinctly summed up his taken the Duckie Brown boys? casually chic collection during COACH PHOTO BY Directly to the bank. “People the showroom appointment. won’t think it’s as crazy,” said With Kering’s backing, Donna Karan Shows Steven Cox. “We’ve done the Maier has impressively dirty work,” added his partner expanded the vocabulary for Daniel Silver. his own label (he is also the Urban Zen for Fall Coming off a very creative director of Bottega androgynous season, the duo Veneta), building on his idea For years, Donna Karan has been vocal turned their eyes to men’s wear of effortless clothes with about wanting to show clothes in the season heritage pieces with a Thirties- interesting new fabrics and for which they’re designed. On Wednesday, and Fifties-inspired lineup. But tropical foliage prints. she did just that, unveiling for fall Urban they didn’t lose sight of their The lineup of men’s Zen, which was immediately available at the DNA — high-waisted pants and women’s clothes and brand’s Greenwich Street store in New York. had the brand’s drop-crotch accessories was tightly edited The designer focused on layered, draped signature and the bowling and coherent. A relaxed and on-the-bias silhouettes in a palette of shirts were flowy and oversize, boyfriend poplin cotton shirt, black with gray, navy or brown — clearly, her allowing for their trademark for example, was paired comfort zone. playful proportions. with a pleated palm print Outerwear was a standout, particularly the Although the collection was skirt, which Maier chose padded down-filled suede pieces, including full of saleable pieces, the fact to show alongside a male a belted jacket with an exaggerated jersey that it remained within the model in a bleached cotton collar, which she paired with stretch suede boundaries of men’s wear made piqué polo shirt and poplin pants. The vibe was cozy, especially when it it one of the most directional shorts. These, and the rest of came to the speckled cashmere sweater dress collections to date. the looks in hues like blush that looked like tweed and the bias-cut jersey pink, linden green and a tunic dress with a waxed suede panel at the BCBG Max Azria: An effortless, soft blue, evoked a carefree hem. As Karan put it during the appointment, bohemian sensibility is always spirit, a notion underscored these looks should feel “like skin on skin.” at the heart of Max and Lubov by materials like an ultrasoft As for her strategy, she is already tweaking Azria’s designs (they’re from denim fleece cozy enough for it slightly. Karan plans to show spring next California, after all), and a few a chilled summer night. month, though only to long-lead publications. 10 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 2014 WWD.COM

WWD: How do you deal with that kind of attention or are you used to it? Carine Roitfeld of Harper’s Bazaar C.R.: At the beginning, it [the attention] makes you very happy. My father was do you think of the different markets C.R.: Dead or alive? In the dead, I very happy to read the first article about By ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD Bazaar serves? never worked with Helmut Newton. I me. Me, I’m not obsessed with that. I C.R.: I just look at what I want. What met him many times, but never worked never wake up in the morning to open my CARINE ROITFELD is the founder I dream. with him, and Richard Avedon. There’s iPad to check where my name is that day. and editor in chief of CR Fashion another one — and for me — he worked I’m not obsessed with myself. If you listen Book and the global fashion director of WWD: What about the selection of models? with everything I love in fashion, his too much about what people say about Hearst’s Harper’s Bazaar. Prior to that, C.R.: No, because I think sometimes the name is Bob Richardson, the father of you — I think it’s a bit sad to be obsessed she served as editor in chief of French models I’m using are big stars. If you Terry. The first picture I ever got was a with yourself. But as a woman, you want Vogue for 10 years. have Scarlett Johansson, I’m sure that present from Mario Testino and it was to look good in pictures. When I go to the they know her everywhere. We’re lucky a print by Bob Richardson. For me, it’s shows, I try to smile. It makes you more WWD: Can you give some background on at Bazaar, you can get all the top models. my biggest icon. beautiful and I think the photographers your role at Harper’s Bazaar? are nicer to you if you try to make Carine Roitfeld: A lot of people ask me, WWD: What about photographers? WWD: What’s the picture of? their work easier. At the show, the ‘What are you doing?’ No one really C.R.: Usually, if you are working with a C.R.: It’s a girl on the beach and she’s photographers know you. They call you knows what I’m doing for Bazaar. It photographer and you want to use his crying a bit, there are some by name. You get very close to them. One happened two years ago. I’m supposed picture for a magazine, you tears in her eyes. He always time I was coming out of Marc Jacobs and to re-sign my contract in September. can’t — it costs a lot of knew what he was doing. I missed one step, and I fell, but no one took I had lunch with [Hearst Magazines money and everything a picture. That’s chic. It’s maybe International president and chief is syndicated. Now? No because I was nice with them, executive officer] Duncan [Edwards] problem. They agree at too. I think it’s better to make and [Hearst president] David [Carey] the beginning that the your relationship with them nice. [two years ago] and they proposed story will be all over the I will never forget this. that I be like a global fashion editor. world. It’s a simplification. I liked it because I learned from WWD: When you look at the Karl Lagerfeld that it’s always great WWD: How many different photographers landscape of magazine covers, do to do something that’s never existed do you use? you think they’re too commercial, before, to start something new. When C.R.: I can [only] use photographers meaning you can’t push the

Lagerfeld started with H&M, it was that are not contracted with Vogue. limits as you could before? the first time that someone big from I am restricted. You know, they’re C.R.: I don’t think there’s a lot a brand like Chanel goes to a brand making a lot of contracts. There’s a of freedom now in the press for everyone. He was the first one. specialist for contracts at Condé Nast. because it’s become a huge Everyone forgets. I worked twice with Karl Lagerfeld. business. There are so many But I also push very new talents, people working on the business

WWD: Tell me more about your lunch people who I think are exciting. So side, and for the designer at Hearst. you go from very new talents like there’s a lot of pressure. C.R.: I had a very strange lunch with Lara Stone to [work with] big names Fashion is a tough world. There them [David and Duncan]. I didn’t like Lagerfeld. There’s always a way are all these advertisers that know them. I thought they were very to make something new and bring you need to exist; it’s great, but nice people and I was very surprised them together. At Condé Nast, they sometimes it’s too much and by their idea. I th’’ ink it’s a very genius would give a well-known name to you can’t get your freedom. idea to give one editor the ability to someone like Mario Testino or Steven There is this and everything do one story, 17 pages, giving them Meisel, a very big name, not someone has to be so politically correct. total freedom for the choice of the young. It’s a risk, but it’s interesting, I think there’s a limit to being photographer, the models, the choice too, after I’ve worked with the same politically correct. Me, I make of the clothes. And we give the same people for 10 years. a lot of errors in my pictures. story to 30 countries [Harper’s Bazaar I push a lot all the time. But I editions] at the same time. WWD: Do you ever think about advertisers always think, I have kids — I when you pull clothing for shoots? don’t want to put in things that WWD: Having just departed Condé Nast’s C.R.: I think a bit. Not too much because they want to copy — like no French Vogue, some may have seen the afterwards it’s not going to be me. I try drugs, no violence, no anorexia. move to Hearst as revenge. How do you to control the image. view it? WWD: Do you regret anything in C.R.: At the same time you have 40 million WWD: Have you ever gone too far in your career? readers. It’s never happened before. It’s your career? C.R.: The only regret I have is [using] a cigarette [in photos] because 30 years ago we didn’t know it was killing. Everyone I don’t think there’s a lot of freedom now in the was smoking — it was chic — Serge Gainsbourg, Catherine press because it’s become a huge business. There’s always a moment. It wasn’t a Deneuve; it was the coolest thing to fashion picture. It was about a woman. smoke, but now we know it’s a bad thing. — CARINE ROITFELD When I’m doing stories, I never start I try my best to not show a cigarette in with the clothing. I always start with my pictures. When I was at Vogue, the the woman herself. I don’t copy Bob only regret I had was not to put in more huge and it’s the reason why I accepted C.R.: I know I cannot go too far [at Richardson, I am inspired by him. He young designers, so I try to do much because I wanted to do more stories, not Bazaar]. There are limits. I’m lucky to was such a big talent. more of this at CR. because I had to act like I had revenge have my magazine [CR]. So if I’m going for Condé Nast. I had just left Condé crazy, I can do it in my magazine. WWD: What’s one difference between WWD: Do photographers today have too Nast. It was something very interesting working at Bazaar and Vogue? much control? that didn’t exist before. It could be the WWD: When you were at French Vogue, C.R.: It’s very strange at Bazaar. When C.R.: Yeah. I think there are some same idea with a photographer, but they did you feel that you were able to be as you’re working at Condé Nast, you have photographers with huge talent like gave this offer to me. I accepted because creative as you are now at CR? the faces of Condé Nast in front of you, Bruce Weber, like Steven Meisel. it was the first time. C.R.: Almost. I think my years at French Jonathan, S.I. Newhouse. With Bazaar, I Everything they are doing is genius, but Vogue, [Condé Nast International never met the people of Bazaar. Have you there are also photographers, if they WWD: When were you approached about chairman and ceo] Jonathan met them? The owner of Bazaar? Monsieur, don’t have a good education, they can’t the Bazaar job? [Newhouse] gave me a lot of freedom. I Madame Bazaar? I never met them. do good pictures. Honestly, am I going to C.R.: It was almost the same time I was would follow my instinct and Jonathan be killed for that? starting my new magazine, CR. Because was really, honestly, OK’’, I have a boss, WWD: Do you mean the Hearst family? I am doing my magazine with Stephen but it didn’t feel like I had any boss for C.R.: There is a family but I never see WWD: I don’t think so. But here’s Gan, who was the creative director for 10 years. I think I made him laugh. I them. I’d love to meet them. one. What do you think about the Harper’s Bazaar, when he asked me think when he sees this [she points to a controversies surrounding Terry “Would you like to work with Stephen?” recent issue of Harper’s Bazaar], he’s WWD: I’ll tell David Carey to get on that Richardson and his apparently amorous I said of course. I could not think of going to be really jealous. one. How has technology changed the ways with models? working with anyone else but Stephen. WWD: When you shoot a big star, how do way you do your job and is it for better C.R.: I think Terry....[p.r. tries to He’s my friend and he has a lot of talent. you create a unique image? or worse? interrupt.] Maybe she tried to answer C.R.: If you’re working with Scarlett C.R.: I don’t think it’s for better or that question because Terry Richardson WWD: Do you ever consult with the Johansson, for example, she’s very worse. You have to deal with it. It was is a big name in Bazaar? Isn’t he working editors of the 30 editions of Bazaar? strong. She has a look and it’s very hard difficult for me when we started with for Bazaar? [p.r. interrupts again.] I C.R.: The problem is the editor in chief. to change her. Even though they change photographs, you have to watch on the would just like to say, he’s a very good It’s maybe not so easy for them to put in for films, they don’t like to change so screen instead of watch through the photographer who made a fresh name. 18-plus pictures for someone else. They much when they talk about themselves. camera. But everything can go online, He’s not like his father, totally different. may like me, they may hate me, I don’t I think [Lady] Gaga is very unique. She’s and I think that’s genius. Everyone Bob Richardson was a photographer. know. I don’t have to think about it. changing all the time. can see the pictures, but it’s also very Terry is a great photographer, totally dangerous, too. Everyone has a phone. different. Michael Avedon is a great WWD: All the editors can chose photos WWD: Whom do you wish you could have There are a lot of blogs and when you photographer. Totally different from his from the portfolio you’ve created. When worked with or still would like to work come out of a show, everyone can take a grandfather. Sometimes it’s difficult to you’re putting together the portfolio, with in the industry? picture of you. It’s changed a lot. make a name. I think Terry made a name.

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12 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 2014 WWD.COM beauty Hunnam Reveals All books; TV will begin running at launch. By JULIE NAUGHTON Reveal Men, which will be launched in February 2015, was developed with Ann PERHAPS THERE’S something to the Gottlieb and Givaudan’s Marypierre theory of manifestation, at least in the Julien, Olivier Gillotin and Rodrigo case of Charlie Hunnam. Flores-Roux, and has top notes of crys- As a teenager, the British actor ripped talized ginger, lentisque essence orpur, ads for Calvin Klein’s CK One scent pear brandy and kiwano; a heart of out of magazines and papered his bed- suede, agave nectar and clary sage, and room walls with them. Now, the “Sons a drydown of tonka bean, vetiver, organic of Anarchy” star has been named the Haitian orpur and golden amber. Hunnam and Kroes face of the newest addition to the Calvin In the U.S., eaux de toilette sprays in in the men’s print ad. Klein fragrances portfolio, Reveal Men. three sizes — 1 oz. for $42, 1.7 oz. for $62 and “Everyone always thinks the film busi- 3.4 oz. for $80 — will be offered, as will a 2.6- ness is so glamorous, and it really isn’t at oz. deodorant stick, $20. Globally, a 3.4-oz. “Kurt’s always been pretty fearless in the propel me through this transition,” he all,” Hunnam said with a laugh during an aftershave spray, a 6.7-oz. aftershave balm, ways he tells these stories, but, this being said. As a producer, he’s currently devel- exclusive phone interview with WWD. a 6.7-oz. hair and body wash and a 5.4-oz. the last season, there’s no reason to keep oping three projects, which he also hopes “Most of the time I’m up at 5 a.m. working deodorant body spray will be sold. In the anything in reserve. It’s going to be an to star in; all are based on true stories, outside in the beating sun from sunrise U.S., the scent will be sold in about 4,300 emotionally charged season,” Hunnam he said. One is about a young Texan who, to sunset in some dusty hell of a location. department and specialty store doors; the said. (And one heavy on the body count, if after a tragic accident, is forced to re- I mean, I love the business, but it’s not at scent will be sold in 130 global markets. Internet rumors are to be believed.) create his life and dreams and ends up all glamorous. The fashion world — and “Reveal Men Calvin Klein epitomizes Acting wasn’t always at the top of becoming a Mexican drug cartel head; fragrance [world] — is all about captur- the uncompromisingly masculine and Hunnam’s list of career aspirations. “As a another is about a very successful bank ing the idea of aspirational living, the bold attitude of the modern man,” said young man deciding to be an actor, I had robber. “I figured, now that I have the op- most extreme luxury and glamour that Steve Mormoris, chief marketing officer, a million different things that I wanted portunity to do it in film, I don’t have to life has to offer, and Calvin Klein created fragrances, for Coty Inc. “Charlie per- to do, but I would always come back to do it in real life,” Hunnam said. “The last that feeling with this shoot.” fectly speaks to men who want to intrigue, acting because I felt, through being an seven years have completely revolved Hunnam also appears with Doutzen challenge and seduce.” actor, I could experience many different around doing ‘Sons.’ For now, I think I Kroes in global advertising for the wom- Steve Shiffman, chief executive of- versions of life,” he said. want to concentrate on doing some mov- en’s version of Reveal, which launched ficer of Calvin Klein Inc., added, “The Did he consider any alternate career ies.” His next project is Guillermo del in July. The men’s ads continue the new scent is fresh and unique and builds choices? “Bank robber,” Hunnam said, com- Toro’s “Crimson Peak,” which is slated voyeuristic journey that began with upon the already robust Calvin Klein pletely deadpan before bursting into laugh- for an October release. the women’s ads; similarly, the social- Fragrance portfolio.” ter. “Seriously, though, something in the “For me, it’s really all about the direc- media component which began with While all executives declined com- arts, maybe a photographer or painter. I still tor,” he said of choosing projects. “I’ve the women’s launch continues with this ment, industry sources estimated that paint a lot and take a lot of photographs.” been attached to really good scripts that one, said Thomas Burkhardt, vice presi- Reveal Men could do $100 million at re- Hunnam has been looking at film I’ve seen turn into not very good movies at dent of global marketing at Calvin Klein tail globally in its first year on counter. roles. While he gave up the high-profile the hands of an average director. And the Fragrances, part of Coty Inc. Print was While Hunnam declined to discuss role of Christian Grey in the upcoming reverse is true: I’ve seen average scripts shot by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott too much of what’s next for Jax Teller, his “Fifty Shades of Grey” to accommodate turn out to be fantastic at the hands of a in collaboration with Doug Lloyd; TV “Sons of Anarchy” character, he did point his “Sons of Anarchy” shooting schedule, really accomplished director. Now that was directed by Jonas Åkerlund, also out that show creator Kurt Sutter isn’t Hunnam is still keen on the big screen. I’m also producing projects, I’m going to in cooperation with Lloyd. Print will holding back on the drama for the show, “I’ve been preparing my exit out of the have to find people to direct them, so I’ve begin dropping in February and March which is currently filming its last season. show, trying to create a little energy to been paying close attention.” Lippmann, Barneys Team Up Sephora’s New Jewel: Bittar SHE’LL TAKE BARNEYS. tribution has risen to 1,600 doors, includ- WHAT DO YOU get when you mix a $175 Beauty Brush Set and Stand, with Deborah Lippmann is teaming up with ing luxury spas and specialty stores, and jewelry designer with a beauty retail- five brushes — Powder, Angled Blush, Barneys New York to offer an exclusive now Lippmann and Severin have their eyes er? A luxurious collection of makeup Eye Shadow, Smudge and Angled Liner permanent collection for the retailer, which on further global expansion. The brand is brushes, like the ones Alexis Bittar has — and a metallic black stand; the $58 will be launched in October. Twelve new currently available in about 320 doors in created for Sephora. Beauty Brush and Travel Wrap, which shades, inspired by Lippmann’s visions 20 countries and that number is growing The limited-edition items will debut includes Swarovski crystal, Lucite and of the upscale Barneys’ customer, will be steadily, noted Lippmann. on sephora.com in October and in 24-karat gold-plated accents, a Pointed offered. Each will retail for $24, except In the last year, the brand has entered Sephora stores in November. Powder brush and a suede pouch; and for Gold Digger, an offering containing 24- the U.K., Ireland, France and Singapore, “I think of design as one world — a $42 Compact Mirror, a dual mirror karat gold flakes, which will retail for $50. and is currently in discussions to be in- whether it’s a piece of jewelry or a compact in Bittar’s signature sculptur- While Lippmann’s signature bottles have troduced across Europe by a major re- table,” Bittar told WWD. “I loved that al design. “When I was designing it, I black tops, the Barneys collection will have tailer, noted Severin, who is president this collaboration pushed me into a was trying to capture a moment in time white tops, which Lippmann noted will of Deborah Lippmann Collection. Other new area, both personally and function- — late-Seventies New Wave, with sharp “mirror the in-store aesthetic and help dif- markets for Lippmann Collection include angles and lines,” ferentiate itself from our other collections.” Hong Kong, South Korea, Russia, China said Bittar. “I was and Japan. Italy is next; the brand going for this Studio will soon enter luxury retailer 10 54 vibe, what you’d Corso Como. The brand’s first inter- want to have in your national door was Lane Crawford in clutch there.” Hong Kong in 2003. “With this launch Both Severin and Lippmann we are stretching credit Kenneth Lipper, chairman boundaries,” said of Lipper & Co. LLC, with placing Margarita Arriagada, them on their current growth tra- chief merchant at jectory. The couple met Lipper, who Sephora. “We are al- is now the company’s chairman, on ways thinking about an airplane in 2002. “He started how we can take it to mentoring us and his expertise another level, and col- was invaluable,” said Lippmann, laborating with a top Part of Lippmann’s Barneys lineup. noting Lipper’s extensive business jewelry designer like background, including serving on Alexis, who is such Lippmann is also planning an exclusive line Neutrogena’s board and as deputy mayor an artist, allows us to

for Sephora, which she entered last year. of New York City. ANGELA PHAM/BFANYC.COM surprise and delight The offerings are one of several built Industry sources estimated the cur- our customers. We Offerings from Alexis Bittar. around the 15th anniversary of Lippmann’s rent size of the brand at about $20 mil- hope to do more in PHOTO BY nail line. Lippmann founded the company lion in retail sales. Lipper, Severin and the future with him.” with her husband, Jude Severin, the year Lippmann all declined comment on dol- ally.” He did admit to asking the women While Arriagada and Bittar de- they got married, launching in high-end lar figures, although Severin noted that in his life for their suggestions, though: clined comment on projected sales, doors such as Barneys and Neiman Marcus, the company’s sales have grown 16 per- “I don’t wear makeup, so I needed a industry sources estimated that the with Deborah’s brother Mark Lippmann cent year to date over last year’s num- little help there,” he said with a laugh. Bittar collection could do $500,000 also on board as a cofounder (he remains bers, following a 23 percent hike year- The collection, dubbed Alexis Bittar in its time on counter in 300 Sephora a managing partner). The brand’s U.S. dis- over-year in 2013. — J.N. for Sephora Liquid Gold, includes the doors in North America. — J.N. International Flavors & Fragrances Inc.

©2014 International Flavors & Fragrances Inc. All rights reserved. 14 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 2014 WWD.COM beauty Living Proof Taps Ray Nestlé and Estée Lauder. Before By PETE BORN joining Living Proof, she was vice president of global marketing for GRACE RAY has been named Smashbox, which was acquired NEWSMAKER chief executive officer of Living by Lauder in 2010. Proof, succeeding Jill Beraud, “It’s been exciting and reward- who is leaving the company to be- ing over the last several years to come an executive vice president see our hair-care business grow FORUM of Tiffany & Co. so rapidly at Sephora, Ulta and Grace Ray Ray has been the chief mar- salons, as well as enter the pro- keting officer of the scientifi- fessional skin-care category,” Ray products, then ventured into skin cally driven Cambridge, Mass.- said. “I believe in our founding care and aesthetic dermatology based beauty firm since 2011. vision of creating a science-based via a partnership with Valeant Inside the C-Suite Jon Flint, chairman and co- beauty brand. My goal will be to Pharmaceuticals International founder of the company, thanked continue to build awareness for Inc., in a deal signed last January. Beraud for her years of leader- the brand globally and leverage Beraud has led the company ship and wished her “all the best the suite of powerful patented since 2011 and her appointment in her next endeavor,” then cited technologies we’ve created to at Tiffany will be effective on Oct. A CONVERSATION WITH Ray as “uniquely qualified to drive deliver meaningful solutions for 13. She will have responsibili- Living Proof to be a global brand. consumers worldwide.” ties for global retail operations, Not only has Grace proven she is Her appointment is effective including all sales channels in a talented marketer, but she also Sept. 19 and Ray has a mandate every region. She will report to has a sharp business acumen, is a to drive the innovation pipeline Frederic Cumenal, the current strong operator and has incredible and expand the business globally. president, who is due to step up to passion for our mission of making Living Proof was founded in ceo on April 1. He observed, “Jill women the ‘living proof ’ that our 2005 with a group of scientists is a creative visionary who brings products truly work.” from Massachusetts Institute of to Tiffany her strengths as both a Ray has a track record of 17 Technology who initially pio- retailer and a brand builder, with years of working with L’Oréal, neered problem-solving hair-care an important global perspective.” Moschino Cheap and Chic’s Starstruck Scent and that the company was work- By CYNTHIA MARTENS Stars ing with its distribution partners in different countries for ad hoc MILAN — Moschino is reach- launch initiatives. “In the U.K., SONA CHAWLA ing for the heavens. Together we’re considering a preview at with longtime licensing partner Harrods for Christmas,” he noted, PRESIDENT, DIGITAL AND CMO Euroitalia, the Italian fashion adding: “In general, [Stars] will house’s Cheap and Chic label is be present in all the top chains WALGREEN CO. introducing a new fragrance that and sales points worldwide.” will be on shelves in Italy at the Givaudan’s Alexandra Kosinski end of the month and the rest of devised the new edp, which is Europe by the end of the year, available in 30-ml., 50-ml. and reaching 15,000 doors worldwide 100-ml. versions, retailing for in 2015. Called Stars, the eau de 56.50, 76 and 99.50 euros, respec- parfum is the first developed in tively, or about $73.20, $98.50 collaboration with Jeremy Scott, and $129 at current exchange. whose debut Moschino collection were key markets for Moschino Top notes include citron granita, hit the catwalk in February. perfumes, adding that creative rose of may and peony, while the “For Moschino, fragrances director Scott “strongly believes” heart contains lily of the valley, are both an excellent product in their global potential. orange flowers and jasmine pet- and a way to promote the brand,” Euroitalia president Giovanni als and the base, white drift- said the company’s chief execu- Sgariboldi said the idea for Stars wood, vetiver and ambroxan. tive officer, Alessandro Varisco. grew from the shiny gold, shoot- Executives declined to cite “To that end, we are working ing stars cap on the otherwise sales projections, but industry on various new items that allow simple, rectangular glass bottle. sources estimate that the fra- us to stand out while remaining He also noted the idea was to grance could generate 15 mil- true to Moschino’s DNA.” invest on retail and p.r. strategy lion to 20 million euros ($19 mil- Varisco said that outside rather than develop a major ad- lion to $26 million) in wholesale MARY DILLON Europe, the U.S. and the Far East vertising campaign for the scent, volume in the first year. CEO ULTA BEAUTY A Cat’s Meow of a Makeup Collection PARIS — The white cat with the arresting blue eyes — and 40,000 Choupette and the products MODERATED BY Twitter followers — describes from the Shupette makeup line. her namesake makeup line as LINDA WELLS follows: “Glamorpuss luxury.” Revealing details of its holi- day makeup collection in collab- EDITOR-IN-CHIEF, ALLURE oration with Karl Lagerfeld and his pampered pet Choupette, Japanese makeup brand Shu Uemura said the range includes

eye shadow in a shade approxi- KARL LAGERFELD November 19th mating the famous feline’s peep- ers, plus dramatic false eyelash- es incorporating pink feathers, PHOTO BY silver highlights and crystals. Uemura label, the range extends gagement to Shu Uemura for Harmonie Club/NYC Sketches of the cat by to a brush set, a silver makeup Lagerfeld, who did a holiday col- Lagerfeld — who uses Shu trunk, nail enamel and an eye- lection in 2012 that shipped to Uemura makeup to hand-color lash curler with a Shupette some 400 doors. them — adorn the packaging charm in the shape of a stamp. The beauty brand and of cleansing oil, an under-base Kakuyasu Uchiide, Shu Lagerfeld are also launching a mousse, eye and lip palettes, glit- Uemura’s international artistic competition on Instagram starting CEW.ORG ter powder and blush compacts. director, also conceived four “cat Oct. 1, inviting people to post self- To be sold under the Shupette eye” looks with various allures. ies and cat snaps to win a signed by Karl Lagerfeld for Shu This marks a return en- makeup trunk. — MILES SOCHA MAPPING THE FUTURE GLOBAL SOURCING

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16 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 2014 Jason Wu’’ Links With InterLuxe {Continued from page one} fashion business….It just means age in the business of fashion. “I’ve known him for a long I have more expertise and sup- “I work with a lot of design- time, so when the new venture port around me to be able to do ers,” he said. “Some of them came out with InterLuxe as a plat- what I do better,” he said. don’t want to hear about the form to help designers grow to the Wu, who carries the title of business side, they’re not inter- next level, I decided after months chief creative officer, said he ested in it, they don’t care what of talks and discussions that this can reach a broader audience things cost. With Jason, both was the right opportunity for me for his own brand. sides of his brain work. He’s to take that next step,” he said. “We did Target two years particularly adept at under- Wu said the “trust factor” with ago,” he said, referring to his col- standing, both the business and Wassner was key to the deal, which the designer hopes will carry the business into a new phase. “The next level is really re- We’ve been looking to buy several fining, defining and expanding the product offering, thinking other brands because we think you about retail…being very seri- ous about establishing a strong e-commerce platform and put- need a stable of these brands. ting some serious concentration on the leather goods category, — ALLEN QUESTROM, INTERLUXE mainly handbags,” he said. The brand has 190 points of laboration with the mass market the artistic side of fashion…he’s distribution as well as a limited chain. “That was great for us. The not trying to be the cool kid on e-commerce site. TV exposure was great. It allowed the block. I like that.” Wu, who will also continue to me to bring my brand — through For Wassner, InterLuxe is a design the women’s collection for fashion, not through anything way to stay involved with com- Hugo Boss, said the deal would else — to a bigger audience that panies once they’re ready to let him bring in more help, al- cannot yet afford my main col- take the next step. though the future structure of the lection. Those customers are my “It’s a natural progression,” ’’ company hasn’t been determined. future clients as I grow into other he said. “We bring the brand to “I feel great that I can just product categories. I’ve always a certain point…and then they have the support to really be been very vocal about establish- need a partner.” able to concentrate on what I ing the world of fashion, it doesn’t Wassner said’’ InterLuxe was signed up to do really from Day stop with the clothes.” looking to provide infrastructure One, [which] was to design and Wassner described Wu as for smaller companies with $15 to create and to run a successful something of a complete pack- million to $100 million in sales.

Jason Wu …and looks for fall

resort JOHN AQUINO 2014… 2015. Jason Wu PHOTO BY

I don’t know if I should feel good that people call me a young designer or not so good now.… It’s a young business. I’m not a young designer. — JASON WU

He also wants to stick with the several in order to make it some- brands InterLuxe invests in. thing worthwhile for us to do.” “We don’t have a fixed exit The more Questrom got to strategy,” he said. “We look at know Wu, the more he liked LVMH [Moët Hennessy Louis the designer. Vuitton]. We look at Kering. We “Jason has very big name rec- look at what they do, building ognition,” Questrom said. “He brands, not turning them over makes a very good product. I’m quickly, creating real brand really getting to learn a little value globally.” about him and the line. I’ve Wassner said InterLuxe started been impressed by his manner with a list of a few hundred brands and the way he goes’’ about it.” as potential targets. That list has InterLuxe resembles Front been whittled down to about five. Row Partners, which former “We’re sorting them and fil- Urban Outfitters Inc. ceo Glen tering them down for many rea- Senk established with Berkshire sons, personality of the design- Partners. So far, Senk has in- er, can you work with them…is it vested in Opening Ceremony. scalable? We’re in negotiations. It might be a good thing for I’m at fashion week and I’m designers to have more people looking at every brand,” he said. knocking on their door. Kim Questrom — who has Vernon, president and chief served as ceo of J.C. Penney, executive officer at the Vernon Federated, Barneys New York Co. consultancy, said investors and Neiman Marcus — has are starting to look closer at worked with Lee Equity for smaller fashion companies with a decade and said Wassner’s growth potential. contacts and the private equity “We’re seeing a little bit of a firm’s business acumen have trend — getting away from the been a good combination. competitiveness of paying high “We’ve been looking to buy valuations [for bigger compa- several other brands because nies],” Vernon said. “Some of we think you need a stable of the funds are walking away from these brands,” Questrom said. that. This is exciting. I think it’s

GIANNONI GIOVANNI “It’s very difficult to make it what our industry needs.” happen with just one, because And for designers needing you’re going have some that fail some financial help, the shift PHOTO BY and some that succeed. We need could signal a financial windfall. WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 2014 17 WWD.COM

For fall, the company has started another line called Theory+, which is a street active concept. It is launching on Net-a-porter’s Net-a-sporter on Sept. 15, and will be car- Theory’s New Ball Game ried in the Theory freestanding stores. It features performance fabrics and new tech- {Continued from page one} “I don’t believe that companies should is women’s wear and 25 percent is men’s nologies in manufacturing. There are about the contemporary shopper and the con- grow old with their customer,” said Rosen. wear. At present, Theory does more than 25 stockkeeping units for women’s and temporary floor. “I think that you enter the marketplace, 50 percent of its business outside the U.S., men’s. Kulson said they are exploring ex- “The contemporary area, in my opinion, and you have to continue to evolve and and just under 50 percent domestically. panding the brand into more casual sports- has to continue to evolve.…Good clothes stay relevant. The truth of the matter is, Most of that international business is done wear: “We have a very strong dress business don’t necessarily have to be making the lat- when you do it right, you have a wide through a network of freestanding stores and we’ll try and expand that, too.” est pages of fashion magazines. Our whole range of customers. You have the daugh- overseas. The business in Japan, China Looking at the big picture, Rosen sees thing is making cool clothes and making ters, the mothers. I don’t think about an and Europe is directly owned. It has a department stores making improvements clothes that have great integrity in the fit age group, I think about an aesthetic. I partner in South Korea, and it’s going to in the way they do business. and the quality, the shape, the proportion know myself, I’m getting older, but that have a partner in the Middle East. “South “We believe in the experience in the and the fabric and the use of them, and doesn’t mean I want to dress older.” America is not something we’ve looked at store. You look at brick-and-mortar, and obviously making them very cool,” he said. As for the aesthetics of the line, at the moment,” said Rosen. growth is low-single digits. Online growth In 2003, he and Tahari sold large Kulson said she’s definitely trying to Globally, a lot of Theory’s business has is 20 percent-plus. It’s all about creating a stakes in Theory to two Japanese com- push the Theory customer forward. moved to the direct-to-consumer space, better experience and environment in the panies — Link International, Theory’s “What’s been missing at Theory, from stores. We’re working a Japanese licensee founded by the late what I’ve seen, is just a little bit of feminin- lot not only in our own Ricky Sasaki, and Fast Retailing Co. ity and a bit of sexiness in a sophisticated Looks from stores, but in our key de- Ltd. Tahari sold his entire stake, while way. Having worked extensively in Europe Theory’s spring partment-store partners Rosen held onto 11 percent, going on to and Japan myself, I know that customer collection that to change the dynamic become ceo of Theory, and, later, Helmut very well. She wants a little bit more of that. will be shown of what it looks and feels Lang, which Link Theory Holdings Co. I think that Theory has become maybe too Monday. like,” said Rosen. Ltd. bought in 2006. In 2009, Link Theory much known for career wardrobe and the The relationship be- Holdings became a subsidiary of Fast ‘go-to’ place for your suit. We want to be re- tween the department Retailing of Japan, owner of Uniqlo. defining what the woman’s wearing to work. store and the designer- Rosen said he learned several things With this new spring collection, that’s a lot brand has to become from the Theyskens experience. The of what I did with my team,” said Kulson. more seamless, he said. Belgian designer joined Theory in 2010 For spring, the collection has more “We have to sit on the to design a capsule collection under the color. There’s a base of neutrals, such as same side of the table. Theyskens’ Theory label. The following natural linen jackets, ivory, pale grays and We both have the same season, he added design responsibility for natural white. There is also pale blush objective which is cre- Theory’s women’s, men’s and accessories’ and, for the second delivery in February, ating an environment collections. According to industry sources, there are earth tones. “Besides color, and stimulating the the collaboration succeeded in bringing a there are more current and sophisticated customer. The business higher level of recognition to Theory on silhouettes that are a little bit more fash- has to become an excit- a global scale, and the company was able ion-forward. We really want to get back ing experience. If you to open more high-end specialty stores to this woman’s lifestyle,” said Kulson. look at what Marigay around the world, but the Theyskens’ Theory will be putting accessories to- McKee is doing at Saks, Theory collaboration failed to ignite sales gether just for the freestanding stores, what Tony Spring is on the store floor. The line was deemed such as shoes and handbags. Theory has doing at Bloomingdale’s, too advanced for the Theory customer no licensed lines, nor any interest in that. or what’s happen- and, although it garnered editorial cred- Rosen said he’s intrigued with doing col- ing at Nordstrom and its in magazines, it never really built the laborations with other companies instead. Neiman’s, these guys are momentum after the initial launch. “I think there’s a real modernity to doing shaking things up and “I’m proud of what we did. I think creating a whole new we did amazing things together, and I environment and com- think Olivier did some great work,” said munity for the consumer Rosen. “If you go down to the [Theory to get excited about and Meatpacking District] store and look at shop in,” he said. the Runway Collection and what he did, While he noted that and you look at the layer of fashion that the word “omnichan- he brought to the company, it’s really im- nel” is overused, he said portant. I think Lisa and I have talked customers have so much about how we need to continue that.” access at their fingertips He called Theyskens “an amazing in- all the time, that the way dividual and designer.” they want to shop today “There are cycles in fashion, and I un- has to be different. derstand why Olivier wanted to do some- and the company has to think about “The experience of online, digital and thing else. It was time.…I think the idea reaching the customer directly, and not traditional retail has to be merged to- of bringing that level of designer to the through retail partners. As a result, it gether. You can’t go one way or the other. contemporary market was a good idea, seeks to develop a really strong marketing The customer wants to engage, and you and I think it worked,” said Rosen. program and social media-digital strategy. have to allow her to engage where he or Does Rosen think the customer balked All social media emanates from New York she feels comfortable. I do think that it’s at the high prices? headquarters. “We’re investing a lot in the critically important that the experience “I think the customer doesn’t have a whole digital platform,” said Rosen. within the stores is changed. problem with price. I don’t really think price Theory is in the process of building According to Rosen, the customer who’s is an issue for the customer. It’s not clothes a a state-of-the-art design and develop- shopping in a Theory store today is going customer wears once or twice, they become ment center, a block east of Theory’s to a department store or Web site tomor- part of the wardrobe,” he said. Going for- Meatpacking District headquarters. The row. It’s all integrated. “What’s changed the ward, Rosen said he wants to offer one line, company continues to explore bring- game is digital. We’ve been doing business but he likes the high-low aspect of it. ing more production back to New York. in an old traditional way of retailing for “Right now there’s one line, and that At present, Theory does 30 percent of its thousands of years. All of a sudden, five or line will have a lot of levels to it. It will have Lisa Kulson and Andrew Rosen manufacturing in New York. six years, eight years ago, the digital plat- that high-low, which I like and Lisa likes a Rosen is an investor in a host of brands, form is happening, and it’s changing every PHOTOS BY STEPHEN SULLIVAN STEPHEN BY PHOTOS lot,” he said. “Overall, we felt we want to el- including Proenza Schouler. He declined day. There are no rules. We as a designer evate not only the quality, but the sophisti- collaborations. It’s an interesting story of to discuss a recent WWD story regarding brand have to really continue to evolve our cation of the product,” added Kulson. companies and design forces coming to- LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton’s inter- methodology and the way we look at clothes After leaving Theory and traveling for gether and working on a project,” he said. est in buying the 40 percent stake owned by and are merchandising clothes and design- a while, Kulson launched her own name- Asked whether Vince’s rapid growth Rosen, John Howard and other investors, ing clothes. It’s a new ball game,” he said. sake brand, Kulson, in 2003, working out (net sales rose 20.2 percent in the quar- which they jointly acquired in 2011 from Rosen described Theory’s current busi- of Italy. She closed it in 2008 and took ter to $89.3 million) has had an impact Valentino Fashion Group. Rosen is also an ness as good. “I think it could be a lot better. time out to have a family. “Taking time off on Theory’s business, Rosen replied, investor in Rag & Bone, Alice + Olivia and J My ambition is not for my current business to was really important. My life changed and “There’s plenty of business. It’s our abil- Brand, the latter of which he is ceo. be the way business is. I have a plan, a plat- my needs as a woman. It gave me a whole ity to execute our vision and our ability As for his other interests, he said, “I’m in- form and a program. I think we can raise the fresh perspective. Simultaneously, we had to do what we set out to do. I think that volved in a lot of different projects and get in- bar. We have a global business that’s almost a recession and the emergence of brands there are a lot of things I think we do spired by that. I have a lot going on between $1 billion. I think we have a big global busi- such as Zara and H&M, and the Internet right and things we need to work on. Theory and Helmut Lang and J Brand.…I’m ness, but I believe that we have to go further.” that became so important, much more “I think aesthetically, you stay in one very stimulated with what I’m doing.” He Does Rosen think Theory can eventu- important than when we started Theory. place, but the methodology of how you do called his investments in Alice + Olivia, Rag ally become a $2 billion brand? They were almost nonexistent,” she said. business and the platforms constantly have & Bone, J Brand and Proenza “separate.” “I’m more interested in not only what Rosen added fast fashion is really a phe- to change because the world and fashion are “I think it’s exciting to be involved we do, but the way we do things,” said nomenon of the last seven or eight years, as constantly changing and you have to change in different segments of the industry. It Rosen. “There has to be a level of integ- is the Internet. “And the pace of everything with it. I’ve been very much wanting to move helps me understand the different per- rity and quality and innovation to what and the knowledge everyone has,” added our company forward in a lot of ways,” he spectives of the marketplace. I like to we’re doing. There are companies that Kulson. Rosen doesn’t believe that a brand added. For starters, the company plans to stay ahead of the game and be innovative have to continue to provide leadership needs to follow its customer as she moves freshen up and change the Theory logo. in terms of what the opportunities are in in the marketplace. I think we’re one of through different stages in her life. Seventy-five percent of the business the marketplace,” he said. those companies.”

18 WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 2014

OBITUARY

Joan Rivers, 81 JOAN RIVERS, who was hospitalized When the documentary “Joan Rivers: A at Mount Sinai after going into cardiac Piece of Work” made’’ its debut in May 2010, arrest during a medical procedure at her longtime friend Jonathan Van Meter Yorkville Endoscopy, died Thursday. She quoted her in New York magazine as say- was well known as a comedian, but, for ing, “It’s amazing. People who have seen about two decades, she had a second ca- the film come up to me and say, ‘I never reer as a fashion critic on the red carpet. liked you until now.’ TV interviewers say, Beginning in 1994, Rivers and her right in front of me, ‘Even if you have al- daughter, Melissa Rivers, transformed ways hated Joan Rivers…you are going to the way fashion coverage was handled on love her and be mesmerized by this film.’ the carpet, with their trademark snarky They spit right in my face and then spend Rivers at asides. At the time of her death, Rivers the next 10 minutes wiping it dry.’ ” the 1997 was cohost of the E! TV show “Fashion Rivers was known for her no-holds- Accessories Police” and starring in the reality series barred comedic style; her remarks lifted Council ACE “Joan & Melissa: Joan Knows Best?” She the civilized veneer off red-carpet fashion Joan Rivers in 1969. awards. continued to do stand-up comedy, and coverage. In 2010, on “Fashion Police,” she had seven shows planned across the U.S. in November. Rivers, 81, who was born Joan I’m not so funny in Alexandra Molinsky on June 8, 1933, was nothing if not good copy. And she fa- real life unless I really mously lived her life in public, creating a reputation as one of the hardest-working people in show business, with a set of gigs know you — unless I’m that kept her busy around the clock and throughout the year. She used her own with real friends. foibles as grist for the mill — including, notably, her obsession with plastic sur- — JOAN RIVERS TO WWD, 2010 gery. Five typical quips: “I knew I was an unwanted baby when I saw that my bath toys were a toaster and a radio”; “I blame said of Julia Roberts: “She has become a my mother for my poor sex life. All she real star on the red carpet over the years. told me was ‘The man goes on top and the She walks into a room, and there’s a light woman underneath.’ For three years, my around her. And the clothes are always ap- husband and I slept in bunk beds”; “I’ve propriate and right for the event. That vin- had so much plastic surgery, when I die tage Valentino dress she wore when she they will donate my body to Tupperware”; won the Oscar for ‘Erin Brockovich’ — my “I wish I had a twin so I could know what God, that was just divine.” I’d look like without plastic surgery,” and She described Beyoncé as “a perfect Joan and her daughter “A man can sleep around, no questions example of someone who’s got it together Melissa Rivers at the asked, but if a woman makes 19 or 20 mis- over the years. Finally, she’s come into Emmy awards in 2005. Rivers in 1972. takes, she’s a tramp.” her own. Young stars should’’ dress like She was the first woman to host a late- young stars. But they used to dress her night talk show, when her mentor Johnny like an old lady when she was 17. She al- On Nicole Kidman: “She’s so thin and ating influence of aging, the Kardashians Carson made her the regular guest host of ways looks fantastic now — there’s a girl tall and gorgeous, she should just put her- (“Smart as whips to make a career out of “The Tonight Show” in 1983. She famously who really knows what she’s doing.” self in the hands of Chanel or someone this — they’re like the Gabor sisters of this fell out with Carson in 1986, when the Fox On Helen Mirren: “She used to look ri- and shut up and let them do it. Don’t lis- era”). On Kristen Stewart: “ Yo u silly girl, Broadcasting Network offered Rivers her diculous. I remember she came one year in ten to what Keith Urban says. Now that you make $20 million a movie, and you own talk show, “The Late Show Starring a boa and boots….It was like, ‘What the hell she’s married to a rocker, the people she want to sue because, I infer, you’re a great Joan Rivers.” When Carson learned of are you doing wearing that to a serious cer- goes around with are different, so her juggler of balls.” Also: “On a scale of one this move, he never spoke to her again. emony?’ Then, after I had a go at what she look has changed. I didn’t like the dress to Osama bin Laden, how bad am I?” and

The show failed, and her then-husband, was wearing, she became this chic, elegant, she wore at the SAGs. She’s looking hotter “I never wear yellow any more because it’s ERICKSEN TV producer Edgar Rosenberg, commit- fabulous creature. Helen’s a smart lady. and sexier, rather than more classy and too matchy-matchy with my catheter.” KYLE

ted suicide; Rivers used her next gig (as Instead of getting angry, she said, ‘OK,’ went glamorous, which is what you expect.” “I have the only career where I got to BY Linda Lavin’s replacement in “Broadway to Dolce & Gabbana and pulled it together.” On Mariah Carey: “I wish we were all the top by promising producers not to Bound”) to begin her climb out of the re- On Penélope Cruz: “I’m not a fan of as egotistical as Mariah. Wouldn’t that be sleep with them.” sulting psychological hole. hers anymore. She obviously spends wonderful to be a big, chubby woman with Her many other enterprises included However, little about her comedic style hours looking beautiful and always looks big, pendulous breasts and think you’re a highly successful jewelry line, launched had changed over the years. An interview elegant. But she’s started saying in inter- hot? I mean, how fabulous is that? It’s with QVC and The Shopping Channel, and WWD did with Rivers in 1972 called her views, ‘I don’t care, it’s not about clothes, FABULOUS. I think, ‘Go for it, Mariah.’ 12 books of humorous memoirs and self- “the fastest mouth in the West” and noted, it’s not about fashion.’ Don’t lie to us. Sure, everything always looks like it’s two help, all of which were bestsellers. “Her material might be described as, She’s always amazingly dressed, and we sizes too small, but she thinks she looks hot, In 2010, WWD asked Rivers, as some- ‘Everything You’ve Always Really Thought know it takes time, so don’t stand there and that’s great. I admire that kind of girl.” one who seemed to be a workaholic, what DIERNHAMMER; BACKSTAGE FRANK But Were Afraid to Say Out Loud.’ ” and say, ‘I don’t care,’ when you know “The worst fashion crimes are always sacrifices she had made, and she respond- Her trademark question later became, f--king well it’s taken hours to get ready. the best. Everyone remembers Björk’s ed, “ Yo u look back and you think probably “Can we tawk?” I’m angry at the hypocrisy.” dying swan and Demi Moore’s cycling- some of my romances, a lot of the men in shorts ensemble. The real crime is not my life — certainly since my husband — being outstanding. If I really wanted to be have always been in a second position. ‘I noticed, I’d wear the dying-swan thing.” love you very much, but I am going three

“We did a thing on ‘Fashion Police’ days now to England to perform. Want to 1972 AND ROSENBERG BY once where we showed dresses on the come?’ It was a lot of ‘want to comes.’ Yo u runway and then on the stars on the red look back and think, ‘Maybe my life would carpet. It proved that, very often, they be different. Maybe there would be some- should stay on the runway.” one sitting here if I’d gone the other path.’

In the past two years, Rivers made Yo u don’t know. Life is all choices.” SARDELLA; DONATO jokes about everything from singer Then, WWD asked whether Rivers Adele’s weight to the Holocaust and was ever felt “tired by the expectation to al- frequently criticized for the insensitiv- ways be funny.” ity of her cracks. But she believed, as “A Her response: “I feel that when I’m in- Piece of Work” revealed, nothing was vited to a dinner party. Because you know off-limits in comedy (something she had the hostess is thinking, ‘Oh, Joan will take picked up, partly, from one of her key in- care of that end of the table.’ And I’m not fluences: Lenny Bruce). The documentary so funny in real life unless I really know cast her as the ultimate showbiz survivor, you — unless I’m with real friends, and and her fortunes seemed finally to have then, of course, you’re laughing and carry- turned around. As Shanda Deziel pointed ing on. But when I don’t know you, I’m not out in Maclean’s, Rivers was roasted on going to walk in and make six wisecracks Comedy Central, won the second season when I’m standing in [Blaine Trump’s] Backstage of “Celebrity Apprentice” and became a apartment or Lily Safra’s apartment or

at Badgley hit at the Edinburgh Fringe Festival with poor Nan Kempner’s. Nan Kempner EMMYS BY PIERRE SCHERMANN; ACE FROM WWD ARCHIVE; Mischka’s a one-woman show about her life. stopped asking me to lunch because I was fall 2012 In an interview for “The Leonard so boring. She used to give these great Rivers and Edgar Rosenberg in 1972. runway show. Lopate Show,” which took place in June lunches; she had me twice and then she — LORNA KOSKI of this year, Rivers talked about the liber- realized, ‘She’s a bore.’ ” 1969 PHOTO BY WWD FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 5, 2014 19 WWD.COM

time dance gig is tricky with a runway show coming up. FASHION SCOOPS “So I get up, go rehearse FOR MORE and then work on my show. SCOOPS, SEE That’s just what I need NEW YORK BOUND: Sarah Rutson, be live-streamed and available during fashion week,” she WWD.com. Lane Crawford’s longtime for purchase immediately on said. “But I am the first fashion director, is headed to the brand’s Web site. Last year, one to be representing the Net-a-porter in New York, Versace forged a new path for fashion industry.” according to industry Versus as a seasonless line Her partner on the show, sources. As reported with a strong digital element Tony Dovolani, will act as her earlier this week, to be designed by Donatella groom when she plays a bride Rutson is planning to Versace in collaboration with in her wedding-inspired runway leave Lane Crawford a number of young designers, show next week.”I want to stay after more than two stylists and creative talents. around for a few weeks so I need decades at the Hong After parting ways with my fans to vote,” Johnson said. Kong retailer. Christopher Kane in 2012, The designer wasn’t as The sources said Jonathan William Anderson, concerned about her physique

Rutson would aka J.W. Anderson, was “because basically I don’t eat STEVE EICHNER Emily Meade sits in the front take up her new the first designer to work very much” as her physical row at Richard Chai Love’s show role in January, on Versus with Versace, fitness. “I had tried Pilates and next to Joe and Nick Jonas. and an official followed by English-Sri dancing in the gym and I just PHOTO BY announcement Lankan recording artist thought, ‘Ugh, I don’t want to be morning at Lincoln Center. Not FASHION I.Q.: Kering has would be made M.I.A. Versace has entered in shape. Then this comes along bad for her first fashion week. appointed Lionel Vermeil, in October. a new phase of expansion just when I was thinking, ‘It is “It’s a little overwhelming,” formerly communications Net-a-porter could initiated with the sale not good for me not to move she said. Earlier that day, she’d director at Balenciaga, its not be reached of a 20 percent stake in — I’ve got to do something.’” gone to BCBG Max Azria, and director of fashion and luxury for comment at the firm to Blackstone Johnson said. there were two more shows to intelligence, a new post press time. Group at the end of Johnson sounded elated that go to before the week was over. effective this week. Earlier this week, February. ABC is letting her be and look “I’m not sure about next The French group, parent WWD reported that — LUISA ZARGANI exactly as she wants to. “When week. I’m trying not to of brands including Gucci, Rutson was leaving I was out in L.A., I saw all those overload,” she said. The actress, Bottega Veneta, Saint Laurent, Lane Crawford “to IN THE STARS: Betsey skin-revealing, diamond, fringy, who was joined on the front Alexander McQueen and Stella pursue new personal Johnson took a break short….I mean the costume row by other TV personalities McCartney, said Vermeil would opportunities,” from rehearsing for department they have is billions — Darren Criss and Hannah Simone “provide analyses of fashion according to Andrew her debut on “Dancing of dollars worth,” she said. “And of “Glee” and Samira Wiley of trends and new design talents Keith, president of Lane With the Stars” Thursday it’s terrifying because it’s great “Orange is the New Black” to Kering and its brands.” Crawford and Joyce afternoon to chat about costumery for 22-year-olds but I — was looking forward to He reports to Louise Beveridge, Group. — WWD STAFF how the role may finally don’t even show my arms.” watching the finale of her series senior vice president of fulfill her dashed dream of — ROSEMARY FEITELBERG on Sunday night, though she communications. GET THEM NOW: The being a Rockette. Six days doesn’t have HBO herself. Before joining Balenciaga Versus Versace into training, the designer CHAI’S FRONT ROW: Emily Meade, a “I actually have to go watch it in 2007, Vermeil worked in collection designed by said that her signature young actress on the HBO show with other people I’ve taken some communications and p.r. Anthony Vaccarello will be runway walk-off — the “The Leftovers,” was seated people’s HBO Go passwords,” at Givenchy and Jean Paul unveiled in New York cartwheel split — is also next to two teen heartthrobs, she said. “I’ve basically found a Gaultier. His successor at on Sunday and, for the A look from her best dance move. Joe and Nick Jonas, front row at way to pirate my own television Balenciaga has yet to be named. first time, the looks will Versus Versace. Preparing for her prime- Richard Chai Love Thursday show.” — ERIK MAZA — MILES SOCHA Iafrate Wins Supima Competition knee-length dresses in coral corduroy and By ARTHUR FRIEDMAN in black and purple twill, both with black stenciling, and three full-length gowns — NEW YORK — Anastasia Iafrate, a grad- purple denim with laser etching detail, uate of Kent State University, won the salmon-colored knit with shoulder bow annual Supima Design Competition on detail and a hand-stenciled printed shirt- Thursday, which carries a $10,000 prize. ing style with a draped center front bow. “My career has officially started and Iafrate’s collection was chosen over it’s an amazing start,” Iafrate said back- lines from finalists Jenny Hoang of stage at the Pavilion at Lincoln Center. the Academy of Art University in San “It was unexpected, to be honest.” Francisco, David Lee of the Fashion For the competition, each finalist was Institute of Design and Merchandising in asked to create a capsule collection of Los Angeles, Ou Ma of New York’s Fashion women’s eveningwear from premium Institute of Technology, Sharon Moon of the Supima denims, knits, corduroys, twills Rhode Island School of Design and Yuxi Bi and shirting fabrics. of the Savannah College of Art and Design. “I loved working with the fabric,” said Supima, which designates an elite Iafrate, who graduated from Kent State with variety of pima cotton grown only in a bachelor of arts in fashion design. “It’s California and the Southwestern U.S., usually used for casualwear. Yo u wouldn’t began the student design competition normally see it in eveningwear. So it was a seven years ago. challenge, and I took it and embraced it.” “I am currently moving to New York In her five-piece capsule collection, and am looking for a job opportunity, so “White Nights of St. Petersburg” — Iafrate winning means the beginning of my ca- was inspired by the beauty of the Russian reer,” Iafrate said. “It means that peo- city and the arctic circle twilight — the de- ple appreciate what I do. It’s a boost for signer used color and detailing to enhance my confidence and tells me that I’m on the fabric’s casual nature. She created the right path.” WWD FASHION CAREER EXPO Find the Job of Your Dreams

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Host Coco Rocha, right, with Anastasia Iafrate and models wearing her designs. WWDCAREERS COM