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COI\TEMPORARY VISIONS Ii\ TIBETAI\ STI]Ditrs COI\TEMPORARY VISIONS Ii\ TIBETAI\ STI]DItrS Proceedings of tlte F'rns'r'Iv'Rnr vrto\ \L St:ulrtn o!-Yor rr; 'Inln'x)[.(x;ts.rs EotlRn gt Brandon Dotson Kal,sang Norbu Gurwng Georgios Halkias Tim Myatt With the Assistąnce of Padcly Booz d ni co-12 5'*'' Lio* .J ^ .-.aO j l^v- t;- ą Ix rsn L,txo or CnncKPorNTS Yartsa gunbu Business in Golok 2007, ą Prelininary Report from the Fie ld EN{II'IA ROZĄ Stj|,EK For Richard Hoggart Ix'rnooric'noN he grorvingpopularity of Asian medicinal systemshas reachedCentral Europe.'At a postoffice in Warsaw,Poland, people can havea look at a lit- tle stall,a mini-pharmacy,selling herbalremedies from theFar East.They will find there a little flyer that advertisesa productcalled CordycepsMycelium Capsules.Importedfrom China, it is an extractof a funguscalled kordiseps(origi- nal spelling).The authorof the flyer introducesa fęw interestingdetails aboutthis unknownfungus' place of origin and its life cyc\e:*fĄordlsepsbelongs to theking- doms of plantsand animals at the same time. It grows in the highlandsof China and Tibet. In summerit is a fungus,in winter it lives in the ground as a parasite with a mothlarva (...) In springit beginsthe life-cycle of an organicfungus again tltusreproducing its biological cycle."This obscureand exotic informationabout a Tibetanmedicinal fungusrefers to somethingthat really doesexist in Tibet.It is Cordycepssinensis, knorvn in Tibetanlanguage as yartsa gunbu(dbyar rtswa dgun 'buf andfor English speakersas caterpillarfungus, native to the Qinghai:Tibetan Plateauand adjoiningmountain valleys. Caterpillar fungus collected by local populationshas become an important economicfactor in many partsof Tibet.3Its importanceis highlightedby worrying news appearingfrom time to time on Tibet-relatedwebsites. In July 2007,for ex- ample,World TibetanNetwork News (WIINN) reportedthat fighting broke out be- tweenpeople frorn Kardze (dKar mdzes)Tibetan Autonomous Prefecture (hereafter I15l I'}IIr,I'\tioŻ,Ą SL ł-L]K TAP) in SichuanProvince lvhen residents of two neighboringtorvnships took up armsand hand grenades to disputethe border line betweenthet yartsa grasslands.' Six people rvęrekilled and over one hundredinjured. In June uffest broke out in Nagchu(Nag chu)Prefecture of thęTibetAutonomousRegion' Agroup of Tibetans in Sog (Sog)county protested against Hui Muslims andtheir anogant behavior at the market.5A simplequarel overayartsa transactionturned into a biggerconflict when a grorvingnumber of agitatedTibetans got involved.As a result,up to thifty Tibetanswere anested, ancl the Huis kepttheir shopsclosed for the next fervdays. 'lhese two examplescome from trvo parts of Tibet that still keep their pastoral character,but unconfirmedrumors of clashesbetween the nomadscompeting over yartsa resourcesare heardof in otherareas of pastorałTibet as lvell.6 Yartsą gunbu at the post office in Poland, or any other country where so- called alternativetherapies are in vogue,is a distantlink in a long lasting and far flung process.Collected by people in Tibet, boughtup by local middlemen,sold to pharmaceuticalcompanies in mainlandChina, processedand widely distributed in China and the world outside- ),artsahas to travellong distancesto reach the hands of its customers.A dietary supplement,aphrodisiac, ingredient of expen- sive dishesin upscalerestaurants in Chinese metropolises,yąrtsa is priced for its stronglymarketed universal qualities. The surgein its price and consumption in the past two decadesreflects economic reforms and availability of disposable income in China. The high demandfor herbal medicines in China and abroad has an indirect and complicatedimpact on the situationin Tibet, wherethe florv of yartsa begins. It impacts the lives of people such as those described in the post office flyer: "[t]hehealing qualities of kordisep,swere discoveredfirst by Hima1ayancattle and sheepherders - they observedthat their animals bęcame more vigorousafter eatingthe fungus."While the healin-qqualities of cordyceps were long known by medical practitioners,in the last dęcadesdevelopments in the markętfor alternativetherapies enabled Golok nomadsto discoverthe market valueof yartsagunbu.T Il"Bsułncrrour'ltNn This chapteris basedon researchconducted in Golok (mGo log) TAĘ Qinghai Province,China, throughoutthe yartsa harvestingseason of f007. Out of the six countiesthat comprise Golok, the main fieldwork area coveredparts of two - Machen (rMa chen)and Gabde(dGa' bde)- known foryartsa resourcesand recent rapid economic changes.The researchconsisted of participantobservation and interviews(in Tibetan)lvithin communitiesof pastoralnomads collecting yartsą ll0i - IN TH|' t,Ą\D ()|l (]I{ECKI'oINTs on the grasslands,local Tibetan tradersand their tradingpartners in Golok mar- ketplaces,towns and villages. It reportsfirst-hand observations from the lives of yartsa gunbu collectorsand traders. The stuclyfocuses on the new developmentsin theyąy75a business in Golok TAP in 2007.Itintroduces historical background and general setting of theyartsa trade,and the presentday social and economiclife in Golok during theyartsa croppingseason, lvhen people's activities and concernscenter around the fungus harvesting,buying and selling. In addition,it discussesthe place ot 1,ą,1'odigging in the nomads'cultural codes of behaviorand theirattitudes to the environment, and it reportsopinions expressedby influential locals in Golok on the phenom- enon of theyartsa tradeand its importancefor the area.Finally, it touchesupon the intra-ethniccooperation netrvorks, and competitionon the yartsa market in Golok TAĘ and signals the developmentof the new entrepreneurialclass in the local Golok societyresulting fronr thę boom inyartsa trade.Tibetan traders' own narrativesof their careersand motivesthat made them quit the herder'slife and enterbusiness punctuate this report. Rus n.łncu P'ttt'łntnrnRs The Golok TAP lies in the southeastcorner of Qinghai. It coversan area of over 78,000sq km, thoughthis is not the entireland arealabeled in early ZOth-century writing as Golok; parts of the former Golok territory are now incorporatedinto otherprovinces and prefectures.8Golok is famousfor theAmnyemachen Mountain Range (A myes rma chen),one peak of which, Machen Gangri (rMa chen gang rt),at6,f8f m, was once thoughtto be evenhigher than Mt Everest.eMore impor- tantly,Amnyemachen is a popular pilgrimage site, and the abodeof the chief of all territorialdeities of northeastTibet/Amdo. Its impact is widely recognizedin and aroundGolok. The Amnyemachencircumambulation route might becomea populartrekking route,as the Golok touristbureau officials hope.toThe sourceof the Machu River (rMa chu/YellorvRiver) is locatedin the westof Golok. The Golok territory can be roughly describedas stretchingfrom the sourcesof the Machu along its upperpart throughthe mountaingrasslands that merge into forestfarm- ing villages of southBanma (Pad ma) county.The Machu sourcearea is a part of the so-calledThree Rivers Area (Mandrydzagsurn;rMa 'Bri Dza gsum)ttin Golok and Yushu (Yul shul) Prefectures,and has been designateda naturalheritage site by the Chinese authoritięs.It is a populartheme of Chinesepostcards, rvhich show the naturaltreasures of the Qinghai-TibetanPlateau, and is a recurring thernein the Chinese environmentalistrhetoric. 117\ I lt\t ILL\ R()2.\ S(r t,tiK The terrain of Golok rises from the southeastto the northrvest,shaping the climate and ways of life of its inhabitants.While the averageannual temperature is around 0"C. in rvinterthe temperaturecan drop to as low as -30'C (the lowest temperaturein Dawu/lTa botr in 2007), and in surnmer it can rise to about +f5'C during the day, but still fall close to freezing at night. Snorv and hail are common at all times of year. In f007 there was snow on the ground in Dawu in July, and the hills around the torvn were covered in snorv as late as 28 July. The annual amount of precipitation decreases from east to rvest.The high humidity in the "lower Golok" - Jigdril (gCig sgril) and Banma counties to the southeast- makes the climate milder, and allows small-scale field cultivation. When the land rises up with the Qinghai:Tibetan Plateau, Golok gets drier, and the "upper Golok" of Martod (rMa stod) county in the northwestconsists of grasslandsover 4,000 and up to 5,000 m high above sea level; this area has been subject to rapid deserti- fication of the pasturelandsin recent decades.l3In the public political discourse in China the blame for that is oftęn falsely placed on the local residents and the ..traditionał..pasture Systemthat supposedly runs contfary to environmentalpro- tection, This is generally recognized as a pretext tbr the state-imposedprogram of mass resęttlementof a large part of its rural population. The counties studiecl, Machen and Gabde (along with Darlag/Dar lag, rvhich is not covered in the present study) form the central core of the whole Golok TAP. This "middle Golok," rvhich stretches between Amnyemachen to the north and Bayankara mountain range to the south,is characterizedby treelessrolling hills of grasslandup to over 4,000 m l: abovę sea level. It is a lrome for nomadic pastoralists who depend for their subsist- j: ence on their large herds of yaks and sheep. The sale of livestock and livestock products is a major source of income for the mainly population Golok, rural of . which is the third least populated of the Qinghai prefectures. I -'. j 2OrH - Cnn.-'r'utryI{IsronrcAL Ovortvlrlv In thę first half of the 20th century, before the Chinese government r,vasestablished in Golok, the
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