Culture Indulgence: Communicating in the Languageof Nyonya Cuisine
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International Journal of Culture and History, Vol. 3, No. 3, September 2017 Culture Indulgence: Communicating in the Language of Nyonya Cuisine James B. Kuake and Steffanie G. Kuake Abstract—Malaysia is a multi-racial nation with an II. THE PERANAKANS: BRIEFLY incredible blend of cultures. The Peranakan or Straits-born Chinese are a unique group of a Creole sub-culture in According to Tan [1], “the Peranakans ethnic community Malaysia. They trace their ancestry to Chinese and local began almost 600 years ago when Chinese traders arrived in Malays. Also known as Peranakan they are rich in cultural the Malay Peninsula, the nucleus was Malacca, centre of the heritage as manifested through their arts, rituals, fashions, and Malacca Sultanate”. Lee [2] confirmed that the Baba’s most interestingly, cuisine. Nyonyas refer to Peranakan women. ‘Golden Age’ started to grow in the late 19th and 20th Nyonyas are known for their cuisine which in a nut-shell is a century. Significantly, there are three terms which are harmonious blend of cultures from two different customs and traditions of their ancestors. By looking at the key ingredients commonly used to explicate the Babas community. They used in Nyonya cuisine, it tells hundreds of stories behind those can be called as the Peranakan, the Straits Chinese, and the ingredients and ways of cooking, notwithstanding the delicious Babas and Nyonyas. The word Peranakan’ is derived from output. Despite the Peranakans having settled in various Bahasa Malaysia the word of ‘anak’ which refers to the nations around the globe today, they have not forgotten their meaning of ‘child’. The term means the mixture of the origins and their sense of pride of their heritage. One local-born as well as the offspring of foreigner-native union. manifestation of these is through Nyonya cuisine being made available to family and friends wherever Peranakans have The term ‘Baba’ is meant for the male and ‘Nyonya’ for the settled. Food communicates culture. What one eats is what one female. The Bahasa Malaysia (Malay language) word of is, and what one eats says a whole lot about who one is. ‘Baba’ derived from the Malay word bapa meaning ‘father’. Humankind’s identity is symbolized by our food choices. The The word ‘Nyonya’ is believed to have originated from Java same goes to what we do not eat nor drink. In addition, our [2]. In Malay, ‘Nyonya’ means ‘young lady’, whereas food communicates our identity, beliefs, cultural and social ‘Bibik’ is a term for elderly ladies. Meanwhile, according to backgrounds to others. It tells a whole lot about a culture as Ng and Abdul Karim [3], the word Peranakan is derived can be told from knowing the origins of ingredients to presentation and plating. In sum, Peranakan food commonly from Indonesia or Malaysia which consist of several referred to as Nyonya cuisine, while create a new renaissance meanings. It is noted here that the term Peranakan (literally in the food and beverage, and tourism industry, also meaning born in the locality of the Straits Settlements) can communicates the epistemology of that Creole subculture; be more encompassing which include Indians, Javanese, and often indulging both the palate and thirst of cultural awareness. Euro-Asians such as those with mixed parentage of local Malays with Portuguese, or Dutch [4]. In synthesis, many Index Terms—Peranakan, Baba, Nyonya, cuisine, culture, historians identify the Peranakans as offspring of inter- communicate. marriage between Chinese settlers from the Ming trade voyages and local Malay women in the port city of Melaka [5]. Ming Chinese traders and sea farers may have to spend I. INTRODUCTION some time in Melaka during inter monsoon periods before In almost every travel program on television which continuing their journey either westward toward Indian and features Melaka, it is without fail that local food is Arabia, or during their homeward journey back to south highlighted and Nyonya cuisine will be among them. Such China [6]. Clammer [7] explained in his article about the is the fame of Nyonya cuisine, especially cakes and desserts Peranakans as “the Straits Chinese regarded the Straits which collectively is often referred to as Nyonya kueh Settlements as their homeland and while maintaining a (cakes). Today, Nyonya cuisine is rather ubiquitous with basically Chinese identity, they gradually abandoned close many restaurants claiming to serve authentic Nyonya food, links of kinship, sentiment, political allegiance and financial some even naming their restaurants using the word Nyonya. remittances to China so characteristic of the non-Baba Such seem the commercial attraction and value of the term Chinese”. Although Peranakans “decorated their houses in Nyonya cooking. Under all that palatable indulgence, much conformance with paternal (Chinese) culture, much of their about the origins of Peranakans can be discovered by domestic life was deeply influenced by the Malay side of looking closer the ingredients and recipe of Nyonya cuisine. their heritage,” wrote Brissenden [8]. Manuscript received July 11, 2017; revised August 11, 2017. III. LITERATURE REVIEW James B. Kuake is with the Department of Communication, Faculty of Social Sciences, Arts & Humanities, Tunku Abdul Rahman University There are many definitions given to the word, culture. College, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia (email: [email protected]). Generally, culture refers to everything that people do or Steffanie G. Kuake was with Queen Mary College/ University College practice in the society which involves ideas, values, London, University of London. attitudes or behaviours. Hofstede [9] defined culture as “the doi: 10.18178/ijch.2017.3.3.099 190 International Journal of Culture and History, Vol. 3, No. 3, September 2017 collective programming of the mind which distinguishes the merges the cooking techniques from Chinese and in terms members of one group from another”, which is passed from of the spices and flavours are taken from Malaysia and generation to generation, it is changing all the time because Indonesia. This provides fame to Peranakans that their food each generation adds something of its own before passing it is equally tangy, aromatic, spicy and herbal. on. In another context, culture is a set of shared and Lee [20] further defines Peranakan culture “as a culture continuing for its values, beliefs that shaped identity, ethnic of “rare and beautiful blend” of two dominant cultures – or other groups and get used to their behaviours [10]. Malay and Chinese with some elements from Javanese, Cultural indulgence denotes that individuals who feel that Batak, Siamese and European (specifically English) they are blessed and happy over self-controlled of their cultures”. Malaysian Peranakan cooking styles are differ participation in life activities and practices. The Peranakans and unique of its own taste by regional basis. In short, there have a strong sense of pride and respect for their traditions are regional variations in Nyonya cooking. For instance, given its fascinating heritage values. Lee [11] defined the dishes from the northern region of Peninsular Malaysia take Peranakan culture as a “unique blend of two dominant in great influences from our neighbouring country, Thailand. cultures; Malay and Chinese-intermixed into a fascinating The dishes seem to be more sided towards the use of synthesis with elements of Javanese, Batak, Thai and British lemongrass, tamarind and other sour ingredients. However, cultures, representing ‘multiculturalism’ and ‘fusion’, long the dishes from Melaka see the greater influence from before the latter two terminologies were invented”. Indonesia which more liberal use of coconut milk. Literally, The Peranakans are well-known for their rich culture, the taste of Peranakan food of Melaka, Penang and which are noticeable in way their dressing, food and Singapore are independently unique [21]. Tan [22] also language. Peranakans preserved most of their traditions and made this distinction between northern and southern religious origins (such as ancestor worship), but assimilated Nyonya cuisine. Melaka and Singapore Peranakan cuisine the culture and language from the Malay communities. In are much inspired by Portuguese and Indonesian taste. the perspective of Peranakan’s food serving for worshiping, Therefore, in the southern region of Peninsular Malaysia, it comes in three main functions; as offerings to the Gods the taste of dishes are generally sweeter and less spicy due and ancestors, to stop vows, celebration of marriages and to generous amount of coconut milk and Malay spices such as coriander and cumin, compared to the northern region of festivals [12]. Generally, there are three other different Peninsular Malaysia [23] where the Thai influence of sour kinds of Peranakan namely Jawi Peranakan and Indian flavour is more dominant. Peranakan. Presently, the biggest population of Peranakan Traditionally, Nyonya ladies are judged on their cooking communities can be found in Malaysia-most in Malacca and capabilities based on the pace a Nyonya lady crushes the Penang and Singapore [13]. Even though the reality that spices (rempah) for spicy shrimp paste condiment (sambal Peranakans have espoused several elements of local culture belachan) making with mortar and pestle (batu lesung). and blended in with their lifestyle, yet the representation of their food remains Chinese until now [14]. As claimed by Sambal belacan is a popular spicy Malaysian chili Lee [15], the Peranakan portrayed very much of Malay condiment consisting of chilies, belachan, and lime juice. It culture in substance and proudly Chinese in form. adds a spicy zest to the dishes. In the olden days, how “Fashion is in Europe, living is in America, but eating is quickly a young Nyonya damsel, is able to crush spices in China” [16]. This phrase exemplifies how Chinese people using only a mortar and pestle (no electric blenders or mills treasure and value food around them. From the perspective then), is one of the most important criteria in bride selection of Chinese people, food is an important part of daily life.