©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 247

Behind the Scenes

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OUR READERS Jean-Bernard Carillet Heaps of thanks to the South Pacific team at LP, Many thanks to the travellers who used the last especially Tasmin, for her trust and support, and to edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful the editorial and cartography teams, including Diana advice and interesting anecdotes: Von Holdt. A heartfelt māuruuru roa to coordinating Alex Bettenhauseno, Gilbert Block, Cindy Egan, author Celeste, with whom I share the same passion Mark Galeck, John & Magic Garcia, William Gournac, for that trippy fenua. In French Polynesia, a special Jim Haynes, Shirley Vandemaele, Bill Wotherspoon. mention goes to my second family, the Peirsegaeles in Mahina – thanks Yan, Vai, Sean, Majo, Hubert for having open all doors and the infectious aroha. A big AUTHOR THANKS thanks also to all people who helped out and made Celeste Brash this trip so enlightening, including Katou, Moearii, Thanks to Patrick Humbert and Diana Hammer for Manoa, Zelie, Isabelle, Lionel, Yves, Sébastien, Marco, sailing away in the 1970s, to my kids and husband for Vladimir and Ludo. As always, a big bisou to Eva and being the heart of the adventure and to all my ­Tahitian Chris, who are always supportive. friends and family for laughter and love. In the islands, thanks to Melanie and Ray on Huahine, Lili Hunter, Va- lena and the emergency doctors on Ra’iatea, the Atges ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS on Taha’a, Kimi on Nuku Hiva, all of ‘Ua Huka (and bad Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson weather), the Kaysers on Hiva Oa and the good people BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the at Tahiti Tourisme in Pape’ete­ and in the US. Special Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and shout out to my extraordinary colleague Jean-Bernard, Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. the best co-author in the world, and to Tasmin Waby, Cover photograph: Woman wearing hei (floral our wily editor. ­garlands), Rurutu, Austral Islands; Cindy Hopkins/ Alamy Stock Photo © 248

Destination Editor Assisting Editor THIS BOOK Tasmin Waby Helen Koehne This 10th edition of Lonely Coordinating Editors Assisting Cartographer Planet’s Tahiti & French Trent Holden, Hunor Csutoros Polynesia guidebook was Simon Williamson Cover Researcher

BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND researched and written by Product Editor Naomi Parker ­Celeste Brash and Jean-­ Catherine Naghten Thanks to Joel Cotterell, Bernard Carillet. The previous Senior Cartographer Laura Crawford, Elizabeth two editions were also written Diana Von Holdt Heynes, Andi Jones, Lauren by Celeste and Jean-­Bernard. Keith, Karyn Noble, Kirsten This guidebook was produced Book Designer Katherine Marsh Rawlings, Sarah Reid, Alison by the following: Ridgway, Kathryn Rowan, Ellie Simpson, Angela Tinson ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 249

Index

A Atiha Bay 80 Tikehau 154 sights 122 Aakapa 170 ATMs 230 ’Ua Huka 178 tourist information 135 accommodation 28-32, Atuona 183-7, 186 bites & stings 216, 240 tours 126 228, see also individual Aukena 201 Bligh, Captain William 212 travel to/from 135 locations Australs 46, 193, 194-201, Blue Lagoon 159 travel within 135 language 242, 244 196, 199 boat tours Bougainville, activities 21, 31-2, see also accommodation 193 Bora Bora 123, 131 Louis-Antoine de 208 individual activities, activities 193 Fakarava 161-2 Bounty 212, 222 locations climate & Hiva Oa 185 Brando, Marlon 56 Afareaitu 80 travel seasons 193 Huahine 99 Brel, Jacques 183, 223 Ahe 39, 164-5 highlights 194, 194 Maupiti 139-40 budget 17 air travel 233, 234-5 history 194 family discounts 43 Akamaru 201 Mo’orea 81-2 Auti 195 tours 127 Ana Aeo 195 Ra’iatea & Taha’a 110 auto-stop 238 bus travel 237 Ana Tane Uapoto 195 Tahiti Iti 72 Avatoru 146, 148-9 business hours 228 Anaho Bay 174 Tikehau 155 Avea Bay 98 Anau Cave 125 Tuamotus 147-8 Avera 107, 195 Ancien Phare de Topaka 160 boat travel 17, 233-4, 235-7, C see also boat tours, animals 215-16, see also Calvaire Cemetery 183-4 sailing individual species B canoe racing 219 Aranui 12, 172, 237, Apooiti Marina 109 Baie des Vierges 191 12 car travel 17, 237-8 Bora Bora 135 Arahoho Blowhole 70 Bain de Vaima 64 cargo ships 172, 233, 236-7 Fakarava 164 Aranui 12, 172, 237, 12 banks 230 Cascade Vaiea 182 Huahine 104 Aratika 162 basketry 197, 221 cathedrals, see churches Marquesas 168 archaeological sites 18, see beaches 20 Catholicism 219 Mataiva 159 also marae, petroglyphs, Atuona 185 caves 64, 72, 125, 191, 195 tiki, tohua Maupiti 142 Bora Bora 122 cell phones 16, 231 Atuona 185 Mo’orea 93 Fakarava 159, 160, 163 cemeteries 183-4, 185 Hatiheu 175-6 Ra’iatea 114 Huahine 95, 98 Centre Jacques Brel 183 Huahine 97, 99 Rangiroa 154 Maupiti 138 chikungunya 239 Puamau 188 Boenechea, Mo’orea 77 children, travel with 41-3 Raivavae 199 Don Domingo de 208 Nuku Hiva 174 Bora Bora 123 Taaoa 187 Boenechea’s grave 71 Ra’iatea 112 Mo’orea 82 Taiohae 169 books 204, 222-3 Rangiroa 147 Chinese Temple 54 Taipivai 175 Ruturu 195 Bora Bora 9, 45, 120-35, , , Christian, Fletcher 212 Tubuai 197 Taha’a 116 124-5 129 8 accommodation 120, 127-31 churches ‘Ua Huka 177 Tahiti 55, 64, 69, 71, 72 activities 37, 122-6 Atuona 185 ‘Ua Pou 182 Tahuata 190 climate & Cathédrale archaeology 189, 206 Tikehau 154 travel seasons 120 Notre-Dame 54 area codes 231 ‘Ua Huka 177 drinking & nightlife 134 Cathédrale Arikitamiro Pass 151 ‘Ua Pou 181, 182 Saint-Michel 201 entertainment 134 art galleries, see museums beer 226 Église de la Sainte & galleries festivals & events 126 bicycle travel, see cycling Famille 80 arts 19, 219-20, 222-3 food 120, 131-3 birds 179, 215, 216 Gambier Archipelago highlights 121, birdwatching 121 15, 15 history 121 Map Pages 000 Mataiva 158 Hakahau 181 shopping 134 Photo Pages 000 Rimatara 200 Hanavave 191 250 churches continued Distillery Huahine Faarumai Waterfalls 70 Haatuatua Bay 174 Hapatoni 190 Passion 98 Faatemu Bay 107 Hakahau 180-2 Hohoi 182 diving & snorkelling 18, fafaru 224 Hakahetau 182 33-40 Mataiea 64 Faie 98 Hakamaii 182 Ahe 39 Notre-Dame Cathedral Fakarava 159-64, 160 Hakanai Bay 182 Bora Bora 37, 122 of the Marquesas diving 38-9 Hakatea Beach 174

INDEX INDEX Islands 169 costs 40 families 218 Hakaui Valley 174-5 Omoa 191 courses 38 Fare 95, 100-1, 103 Hall, James Norman 222 Papetoai 78 decompression Fatu Hiva 191-2, sickness 240 191 Hana Iti Beach 98 C-H Protestant Temple 80  fauna 215-16 Hanahaoe Pass 190 Temple de Paofai 51 dive centres 40

Fenua Aihere 72 Hanahevane Bay 190  Vaitahu 190 Fakarava 38-9, 159, 161 Ferme Perlière Champon 115 Hanaiapa 188-9 ciguatera 241 Huahine 34-5, 98-9 ferries 236-7 cinema, see films live-aboards 40 Hanamenino Bay 190 festivals & events 21-3 climate 16, 21-3, 228, see Makemo 39 Hanamoenoa Bay 190 Australs 198 also individual regions Marquesas 39-40 Hanapaaoa 188 Hawaiki Nui 219 climate change 233 Mataiva 38, 158 Hanatekuua Bay 190 Coastal Defence Guns 122 Maupiti 37, 138-40 Heiva 9, 22, 51, 126, 220, 9 Hanavave 191 Code of Pomare 209 Mo’orea 34, 80-1 Marquesas 180 handicrafts 63, 192, 197, coffee 226 Ra’iatea 35, 109 Fetuna 107 220-1 films 204, 222, 223 Hane 177 Colette Bay 175 Rangiroa 37-8, 36 fish 216-17 cone shells 216, 240 recompression Hapatoni 190 consulates 228 chambers 240 fish poisoning 241 Haranae Petroglyphs 138 Contrôleur Bay 175 responsible diving 37 Fitii 98 Hatiheu 175-80 Cook, Captain James Taha’a 35, 109, 116 food 20, 224-6, 229, Hauru Point 78, 86-8, see also individual 209-10 Tahiti 33-4, 65-6, 72 91-2, 87 locations Cook’s Bay 77, 84-5, 85 Taiohae 171-2 Hawaiki Nui Canoe Race for children 42 coral cuts 240 Tikehau 38, 154 23, 126-7, 219 language 242, 244 coral ear 240 Toau 39 health 239-41 Fort George 197 costs 17, 29, 40 dolphins 176, 216 heat stroke & French language 244 exhaustion 241 Couvent Rouru 202 dolphin-watching 82 fruits 224 hei 221, crabs 216-17 Nuku Hiva 176 19 craft centres 177, 178, Taiohae 170 Heiva 9, 22, 51, 126, 220, 9 187, 202 Tuamotus 145 G hiking 18 credit cards 230 drinking water 226, 240 galleries, see museums Bora Bora 125 cruise ships 236 & galleries drinks 20, 226 Fatu Hiva 191 culture 204-5 Gallery Umatatea 97 driving, see car travel Hiva Oa 185 currency 16, 230 Gambier Archipelago 15, Huahine 100 customs regulations 228 46, 193, 201-2, 15 Mo’orea 83 cycling 235 E accommodation 193 Nuku Hiva 170 ear infections 240 Bora Bora 135 activities 193 Ra’iatea 111 economy 204-5 Huahine 104 climate & Rurutu 195 Eiaone Bay 188 travel seasons 193 Mo’orea 93 Taha’a 116 electricity 229 highlights 194, 194 Rangiroa 154 Tahiti 66, 73 embassies 228 history 201 ’Ua Huka 178 emergencies 17 gardens, see parks & Hikokua 176 D language 243 gardens dance 19, 61, 219-20, 221 history 18, 206-14, environment 215-17 Garuae Pass 160 dangers, see safety see also individual environmental issues 217 Gauguin, Paul 183, 223 decompression locations Espace Culturel Paul Gauguin’s Pearl 146 sickness 240 European Gauguin 183 gay travellers 229 dengue fever 239 explorers 207-9 etiquette 218 geology & geography disabilities, travellers European settlement 50, 215 with 231 events, see festivals & 211-12 events Gilbert, Elizabeth 223 discount cards 235 French takeover 213 exchange rates 17 golf 66-7 Distillerie et Usine de Jus missionaries 211-12 de Fruits de Moorea 77 nuclear testing 213-14 F H Polynesian Map Pages 000 Faaha 116 Haamene 115 Migration 206 Photo Pages 000 Faaroa Bay 107 Haapiti 80, 88-9, 92 hitching 238 251 Hiva Oa 182-9, 184, 186 K Marae Nuutere 71 Miss Tahiti 22 Hohoi 182 Kamuihei 175-6 Marae Paepae Ofata 99 missionaries 211-12 Hokatu 177 Kauehi 162 Marae Papiro 158 miti hue 224 holidays 230 kayaking 82, 110, 140 Marae Pomaovao 199 mobile phones 16, 231 honeymooners 123 Kings’ Valley 125 Marae Pua Pua Tiare 199 Moerai 195 Hooumi 175 kitesurfing 20, 83, 125 Marae Tahiri Vairau 160 money 16, 17, 230 horse riding Marae Tainuu 107 monoi 221 INDEX Fatu Hiva 191 Marae Taputapuatea 15, Monument to the Dead 170 L 106, 15 Mo’orea 10, 44, 75-93, Hiva Oa 185 La Ferme aux Mantas 156 Marae Tauraa 106 78-9, 85, 87, 10, 26  H-M Huahine 100 Lagon Bleu (Fakarava) 159 Marae Tefano 99 accommodation 75,  Mo’orea 84 Lagon Bleu (Rangiroa) 146 Marae Titiroa 81 84-90, 88 Ruturu 197 lagoon excursions, Marae Vaiahu 138 activities 80-4 Tahiti Iti 73 see boat tours Marae Vaitoare 69 climate & Taiohae 170 Lake Fauna Nui 95 Raitoro Marae 197 travel seasons 75 ’Ua Huka 178 Lake Vaihiria 69 drinking & nightlife 92 Marché de Pape’ete 51, 26 House of James Norman landscape 215 food 75, 90-2 Hall 55 languages 16, 168, 242-6 marine reserves 215 highlights 76, 76 Huahine 11, 45, 94-104, Maroe 98 Le Jardin de Corail 98 history 76-7 96, 11 Marquesan language 168 legal matters 229 shopping 92 accommodation 94, leptospirosis 239-40 Marquesas 46, 166-92, 169, 171, 177, 181, 184, sights 77-80 100-3 Les Sables Roses , tourist information 93 activities 98-100 (Fakarava) 159 186 191 accommodation 166 tours 84 climate & Les Sables Roses travel seasons 94 (Tikehau) 154 climate & travel to/from 93 travel seasons 166 diving 34-5 Les Trois Cascades 111 travel within 93 diving 39-40 food 94, 103-4 lesbian travellers 229 mosquitoes 240 food 166 motu highlights 95, 95 lighthouses 160 history 95 literature 204, 222-3 highlights 167, 167 Bora Bora 131 Maupiti 138-40, 141-2 Huahine Iti 102-3 Love Here 115 history 167-9 travel to/from 168 Motu Auira 138 Huahine Nui 95-8 luxury resorts 18 travel within 168 Motu Hane 177 sights 95-8 Marquesas Arts Festival Motu Iriru 107, 112 tourist information 104 M 23, 180 Motu Manu 165 tours 100 ma’a Tahiti 225 Mataiea 64 Motu Miri Miri 112 transport 104 Maeva 97 Matairea Hill 99 Motu Napahere 151 Huahine Nui Pearls & Magical Mountain 77-8 Mataiva 38, 157-9, 158 Pottery 98 Motu Nono 71 Maharepa 90-1 Matavai Bay 69 Motu Oatara 107, 112 Hurepiti Bay 115 mahu 218 Matira Point 122, 127-8, Motu Paeao 138 Mairie de Pape’ete 55 133, 129 Motu Piscine 198 I Maison Blanche 77 Maupiti 13, 45, 136-42, Motu Pitihahei 138 Iipona 188 Maison de la Vanille 115 139, 13 Motu Puarua 154 Makemo 39, 151 accommodation 136, Île aux Oiseaux 158 Motu Tau Tau 116, 19 Mangareva 201-2 140-2 Île aux Récifs 145 Motu Tauna 202 Manihina 177 activities 37, 138-40 Île d’Eden 154 Motu Tehatea 159 manta rays 128, 156 climate & immigration 233 Motu Teuaua 178 Mara’a Grotto 64 travel seasons 136 influenza 213 Motu Tiapaa 138 marae 207 food 136, 142 insects 173, 240 Motu Topati 99 Haunarei Marae 197 highlights 137, 137 insurance 229, 240-1 Motu Tresor 96 Marae Ahu-o-Mahine 81 history 137 internet access 229 Motu Tuanai 138 Marae Anapua 69 sights 137-8 islets, see motu Motu Vaiamanu 198 Marae Anini 98 travel to/from 142 itineraries 24-7, 24, 25, 27 Motu Vaiorea 99 Marae Arahurahu 64 travel within 142 Motuua 188 Marae Farehape 69 Me festival 198 Mt Duff 202 Marae Fare-Opu 122 me’ae 189 J Mt Hiro 199 Jardins Botaniques 65 Marae Harii 197 measures 231 Mt Mouaputa 83 Jardins de Paofai 54 Marae Hauviri 106 medical services 239 Mt Ohue 125 jellyfish 240 Marae Manunu 97-8 Meiaute 177 Mt Otemanu 122, 8 Joe Dassin Beach 116 Marae Marae Taata 64 Mellville, Herman 175, 222 Mt Pahia 125 Marae Matairea Rahi 99 Michener, James 222 252 Mt Poumaka 181 Painapo Beach 80 French Polynesia’s travel to/from 153 Mt Rotui 84 painting 223 regions 44-6 travel within 154 Mt Taita 197 Paopao 77, 81 Gambier Archipelago 195 religion 205, 219 Mt Tapioi 111 Pape’ete 51-63, 58, 60 internet resources 17 remote islands 20 Mt Teurafaatiu 140 accommodation 55-6 itineraries 24-7, 24, 25, 27 responsible travel 128 multiculturalism 218 activities 55 travel seasons 16, 21-3 restaurants 225 INDEX INDEX Musée de Tahiti et des drinking & nightlife 61 plants 217 Rimatara 200 Îles 64 emergencies 63 Pohue 151 Rocher de la Tortue 158 Musée Gauguin 65 entertainment 61 Pointe du Taharaa – Rotoava 160, 162-3

M-T museums & galleries 209  food 57-61 One Tree Hill 55 Rurutu 194-6, 196 Archaeological Pointe Vénus 69

history 51  Museum 176 shopping 62 poisson cru 225 Centre Jacques Brel 183 politics 204-5 S sights 51-5 safety 230-1 Espace Culturel Paul Polynesian Migration 206 Gauguin 183 tourist information 63 bites & stings 216, 240 Pomare family 211 Gallery Umatatea 97 travel to/from 63 hitching 238 population 205 Hokatu 178 travel within 63 sailing 110, 232, 233-4 postal services 230 House of James Norman Papenoo 70 sandflies 173 Pouheva 151 Hall 55 Papetoai 78 scenic flights 122 Poutoru 115 marine museum 177 parasailing 123 seafood 224 Povai Bay 133 Motu Tresor 96 parks & gardens, see also Sentier de Faaroa 111 wildlife sanctuaries Prel, Alex du 223 Musée de la Perle 54 sharks 128, 216 Arboretum 177 Protestantism 219 Musée de Tahiti et des shopping, see individual Îles 64 Bain de Vaima & Vaipahi Puamau 188 locations Spring Gardens 64 Musée Enana 169-70 public holidays 230 language 243 Musée Gauguin 65 Jardins Botaniques 65 public transport 237 skydiving 84 Vaitahu 190 Jardins de Paofai 54 Puohine 107 Smiling Tiki 183 music 19, 204, 220 passports 233 Puraha Waterfall 69 snacks 225 Mutiny on the Bounty Pati 115 snorkelling, see diving & 212, 222 Patio 115 R snorkelling pearl farms 14, 98, 115, 146 radio 231 spas 31, 32 N pearls 62, 14 Ra’iatea 45, 105, 106-15, sports 219 Nahoe 188 petroglyphs 189 108 stand-up paddleboarding national parks & reserves, Fatu Hiva 191 accommodation 105, (SUP) 82 see marine reserves Hiva Oa 184, 189 111-13 Stevenson, Robert Louis newspapers 231 Maupiti 138 climate & 71, 222 nonos 173 Tahiti 72 travel seasons 105 stonefish 216 Nordby 109 ‘Ua Huka 178 diving 35 sunburn 241 Nordhoff, Charles 222 PK10.5 160 drinking & nightlife 113 surfing 20 nuclear testing 213-14, 217 Plage aux Requins 182 food 105, 113 Huahine 100 Nuku Hiva 168-76, 169, 171 Plage de Hitimahana 70 highlights 107, 107 Mo’orea 83 Plage de Taharuu 64 history 106 Tahiti 12, 65, 71, 73, 12 swimming 158 O Plage de Toaroto 64 shopping 114 Omai 210 Plage de Vaiava 64 sights 106-9 Omoa 191 Plage du Mahana Park 64 tourist information 114 T opening hours 228 Plage du PK9 163 tours 110 Ta’ahiamanu Beach 77 Opoa 107 Plage du PK23.5 64 travel to/from 114 Taaoa 187-8 Opunohu Bay 77 Plage Lafayette 55 travel within 114-15 Taha’a 45, 105, 115-19, 108 Opunohu Valley 81 planning Rainbow Warrior 214 accommodation 105, accommodation 28-32 Raivavae 198-201, 199 116-18 activities 31-2 Rangiroa 10, 145-54, 146, activities 35, 116 P budgeting 17 148, 36 climate & pae pae 189 calendar of events 21-3 accommodation 148-52 travel seasons 105 Pae Pae Piki Vehine 169 children, travel with 41-3 activities 146-8 drinking & nightlife 118 Paeke 175 choosing an island 28-32 diving 37-8 food 105, 118 Pahua 158 climate 228 drinking & nightlife 153 highlights 107, 107 diving 33-40 food 152-3 shopping 119 Map Pages 000 French Polynesia basics shopping 153 sights 115-16 Photo Pages 000 16-17 sights 145-6 tours 116 253 travel to/from 119 Temae 89-90, 92 Toovii Plateau 175 Vaitape 122, 127, 132 travel within 115 Temae Beach 77 Topatari Waterfall 69 Vaite, Celestine Hitiura 223 Tahakia 175-6 Temehani Plateau 111 tourism 204-5 Vaitoetoe Ridge 116 Tahiti 44, 48-74, 52-3, Tere 198 tourist information 231 Vallée de la Vanille 116 58, 60 Tereia Beach 138 tours 32, see vanilla farms 115, 116, 119 accommodation 48, Tetahuna 182 also ­individual vegetables 224

­locations, boat tours INDEX 67-8, 70-1, 73 Tetamanu 160, 163-4 Vin de Tahiti 152 travel to/from French activities 34, 65-7, 72-3 Tetiaroa 56 vineyards 152 Polynesia 233-4 climate & Tevaitoa 107 visas 16, 231-2 travel within French travel seasons 48  T-Y Tevitete Ancient diving 33-4 Polynesia 234-8

 Cemetery 185 trekking, see hiking food 48, 68, 70-1, 73-4 Three Coconut Trees W geography & geology 50 Pass 83 Tuamotus 46, 143-65, 146, walking, see hiking 148, 155, 158, 160 highlights 49, 49 tiare apetahi 110 Wallis, Captain Samuel 208 accommodation 143 history 50 Tikehau 13, 38, 154-7, water sports 99-100, 110 climate & sights 64-5, 69, 70-2 155, 14 waterfalls travel seasons 143 Tahiti Iti 70-4 Tiketike 151 Hanavave 191 food 143 Tahiti Nui 63-70 tiki 189, 220 Mo’orea 80 highlights 144, 144 tours 69 Pae Pae Piki Vehine 169 Nuku Hiva 170, 174 history 145 travel to/from 50 Raivavae 199 Ra’iatea 111 Tubuai 197-8 travel within 50-1 Smiling Tiki 183 Tahiti 11, 69, 70, 11 Tuherahera 154, 155-6 Tahiti Billabong Pro 23, 71 Te Tumu 177 ‘Ua Pou 182 Tupaia 210 Tahitian language 242-3 Tiki Fau Poe 188 weather 16, 21-3, 228, see tupapau 219 Tahuata 189-91 Tiki Maki Taua Pepe 188 also individual regions TV 214, 231 weddings 232 Taiohae 169-74, 171 Tiki Manuiotaa 188 Taipivai 175 Tiki Moe One 188 weights 231 tapa 221 Tiki Takaii 188 U whales 176, 216, 15 Tapuamu 115 Tiki Te Tovae E Noho 188 ‘Ua Huka 176-80, 177 whale-watching 15 Taravai 201 time 168, 231 ‘Ua Pou 180-2, 181 Mo’orea 82 Taravao 70-4 tipping 225, 230 undersea walks 81, 123 Nuku Hiva 176 Rurutu 195 tattoos 13, 221, 2, 13 Tiputa 146, 148-9 urchins 216 Marquesas 187 Tiputa Pass 10 Uturoa 106 Tahiti 65-6 Mo’orea 83 Tiva 115 wildlife 215-17, see also individual species Taha’a 119 Toataratara Point 195 V wildlife sanctuaries 158, Tautira 71 Toatea Lookout 77 vacations 230 215 Te Ai’tua 175 Toau 39 Vaiare 80, 88-9 wildlife-watching 128 Te One Roa 195 tohua 189 Vaiea 138 wine 226 Te Pari Cliffs 72 Hikokua 176 Vaiharuru Waterfall 69 women travellers 232 Te Tumu 177 Tetahuna 182 Vaikivi Petroglyphs 178 woodcarvings 220 Teahupoo 12, 71, Tohua Koueva 169 12 Vaipaee 177 work 232 Tohua Mauia 182 Teavaitapuhiva Pass 175 Vaipahi Spring Gardens 64 Tohua Pehe Kua 188 WWII relics 122 Tefarerii 98 Vaipo Cave 191 Tohua Pepeu 185 Tehaatiki 170 Vaipo Waterfall 170, 174 Tohua Upeke 187 Tehueto Petroglyphs 184 Vaipoiri Cave 72 Y Tombeau du Roi yachting, see sailing Teiipoka 175-6 Vaitahu 190 Pomare V 55 telephone services 16, 231 254 NOTES ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 255

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Eating Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Subway station Glacier Drinking & Nightlife Taxi Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Mudflat Cafe Tram Park/Forest Underground station Entertainment Other Transport Sight (Building) Entertainment Sportsground Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above Swamp/Mangrove Shopping appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Dublin, Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

OUR WRITERS Celeste Brash Celeste first visited French Polynesia in 1991, fell in love with the place and the man who would become her husband, and moved to the country in 1995. After five years pearl farming and raising babies on a remote atoll, she and her family moved to Tahiti where they spent the next 10 years surfing, dancing, swimming and, oh yeah, working. She now divides her time between Tahiti and Portland, Oregon. During all this moving about her award-winning writing has appeared in publications from the BBC to National Geographic. Find more about her at www.celestebrash.com.

Jean-Bernard Carillet Paris-based journalist and photographer Jean-Bernard is a French Polynesia expert. So far, he has explored 29 islands in the five archipelagos and has clocked up more than 13 trips. For this gig he searched for the most idyllic motu (small islets), the best manta-ray encounters, the most thrilling lagoon tours, the ­tastiest poisson cru, the most romantic resorts and the best value accommo- dations. His favourite experiences included diving with hundreds of grey sharks on Fakarava, swimming in Makemo lagoon – the most translucent water he’s ever seen – and ­climbing Mt Duff in the Gambier Archipelago.

Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 10th edition – December 2016 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78657 219 6 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2016 Photographs © as indicated 2016 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in China All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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