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For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy. OUR READERS Jean-Bernard Carillet Heaps of thanks to the South Pacific team at LP, Many thanks to the travellers who used the last especially Tasmin, for her trust and support, and to edition and wrote to us with helpful hints, useful the editorial and cartography teams, including Diana advice and interesting anecdotes: Von Holdt. A heartfelt māuruuru roa to coordinating Alex Bettenhauseno, Gilbert Block, Cindy Egan, author Celeste, with whom I share the same passion Mark Galeck, John & Magic Garcia, William Gournac, for that trippy fenua. In French Polynesia, a special Jim Haynes, Shirley Vandemaele, Bill Wotherspoon. mention goes to my second family, the Peirsegaeles in Mahina – thanks Yan, Vai, Sean, Majo, Hubert for having open all doors and the infectious aroha. A big AUTHOR THANKS thanks also to all people who helped out and made Celeste Brash this trip so enlightening, including Katou, Moearii, Thanks to Patrick Humbert and Diana Hammer for Manoa, Zelie, Isabelle, Lionel, Yves, Sébastien, Marco, sailing away in the 1970s, to my kids and husband for Vladimir and Ludo. As always, a big bisou to Eva and being the heart of the adventure and to all my Tahitian Chris, who are always supportive. friends and family for laughter and love. In the islands, thanks to Melanie and Ray on Huahine, Lili Hunter, Va- lena and the emergency doctors on Ra’iatea, the Atges ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS on Taha’a, Kimi on Nuku Hiva, all of ‘Ua Huka (and bad Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson weather), the Kaysers on Hiva Oa and the good people BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the at Tahiti Tourisme in Pape’ete and in the US. Special Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and shout out to my extraordinary colleague Jean-Bernard, Earth System Sciences, 11, 163344. the best co-author in the world, and to Tasmin Waby, Cover photograph: Woman wearing hei (floral our wily editor. garlands), Rurutu, Austral Islands; Cindy Hopkins/ Alamy Stock Photo © 248 Destination Editor Assisting Editor THIS BOOK Tasmin Waby Helen Koehne This 10th edition of Lonely Coordinating Editors Assisting Cartographer Planet’s Tahiti & French Trent Holden, Hunor Csutoros Polynesia guidebook was Simon Williamson Cover Researcher BEHIND THE SCENES researched and written by Product Editor Naomi Parker Celeste Brash and Jean- Catherine Naghten Thanks to Joel Cotterell, Bernard Carillet. The previous Senior Cartographer Laura Crawford, Elizabeth two editions were also written Diana Von Holdt Heynes, Andi Jones, Lauren by Celeste and Jean- Bernard. Keith, Karyn Noble, Kirsten This guidebook was produced Book Designer Katherine Marsh Rawlings, Sarah Reid, Alison by the following: Ridgway, Kathryn Rowan, Ellie Simpson, Angela Tinson ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 249 Index A Atiha Bay 80 Tikehau 154 sights 122 Aakapa 170 ATMs 230 ’Ua Huka 178 tourist information 135 accommodation 28-32, Atuona 183-7, 186 bites & stings 216, 240 tours 126 228, see also individual Aukena 201 Bligh, Captain William 212 travel to/from 135 locations Australs 46, 193, 194-201, Blue Lagoon 159 travel within 135 language 242, 244 196, 199 boat tours Bougainville, activities 21, 31-2, see also accommodation 193 Bora Bora 123, 131 Louis-Antoine de 208 individual activities, activities 193 Fakarava 161-2 Bounty 212, 222 locations climate & Hiva Oa 185 Brando, Marlon 56 Afareaitu 80 travel seasons 193 Huahine 99 Brel, Jacques 183, 223 Ahe 39, 164-5 highlights 194, 194 Maupiti 139-40 budget 17 air travel 233, 234-5 history 194 family discounts 43 Akamaru 201 Mo’orea 81-2 Auti 195 tours 127 Ana Aeo 195 Ra’iatea & Taha’a 110 auto-stop 238 bus travel 237 Ana Tane Uapoto 195 Tahiti Iti 72 Avatoru 146, 148-9 business hours 228 Anaho Bay 174 Tikehau 155 Avea Bay 98 Anau Cave 125 Tuamotus 147-8 Avera 107, 195 Ancien Phare de Topaka 160 boat travel 17, 233-4, 235-7, C see also boat tours, animals 215-16, see also Calvaire Cemetery 183-4 sailing individual species B canoe racing 219 Aranui 12, 172, 237, Apooiti Marina 109 Baie des Vierges 191 12 car travel 17, 237-8 Bora Bora 135 Arahoho Blowhole 70 Bain de Vaima 64 cargo ships 172, 233, 236-7 Fakarava 164 Aranui 12, 172, 237, 12 banks 230 Cascade Vaiea 182 Huahine 104 Aratika 162 basketry 197, 221 cathedrals, see churches Marquesas 168 archaeological sites 18, see beaches 20 Catholicism 219 Mataiva 159 also marae, petroglyphs, Atuona 185 caves 64, 72, 125, 191, 195 tiki, tohua Maupiti 142 Bora Bora 122 cell phones 16, 231 Atuona 185 Mo’orea 93 Fakarava 159, 160, 163 cemeteries 183-4, 185 Hatiheu 175-6 Ra’iatea 114 Huahine 95, 98 Centre Jacques Brel 183 Huahine 97, 99 Rangiroa 154 Maupiti 138 chikungunya 239 Puamau 188 Boenechea, Mo’orea 77 children, travel with 41-3 Raivavae 199 Don Domingo de 208 Nuku Hiva 174 Bora Bora 123 Taaoa 187 Boenechea’s grave 71 Ra’iatea 112 Mo’orea 82 Taiohae 169 books 204, 222-3 Rangiroa 147 Chinese Temple 54 Taipivai 175 Ruturu 195 Bora Bora 9, 45, 120-35, , , Christian, Fletcher 212 Tubuai 197 Taha’a 116 124-5 129 8 accommodation 120, 127-31 churches ‘Ua Huka 177 Tahiti 55, 64, 69, 71, 72 activities 37, 122-6 Atuona 185 ‘Ua Pou 182 Tahuata 190 climate & Cathédrale archaeology 189, 206 Tikehau 154 travel seasons 120 Notre-Dame 54 area codes 231 ‘Ua Huka 177 drinking & nightlife 134 Cathédrale Arikitamiro Pass 151 ‘Ua Pou 181, 182 Saint-Michel 201 entertainment 134 art galleries, see museums beer 226 Église de la Sainte & galleries festivals & events 126 bicycle travel, see cycling Famille 80 arts 19, 219-20, 222-3 food 120, 131-3 birds 179, 215, 216 Gambier Archipelago highlights 121, birdwatching 121 15, 15 history 121 Map Pages 000 Mataiva 158 Hakahau 181 shopping 134 Photo Pages 000 Rimatara 200 Hanavave 191 250 churches continued Distillery Huahine Faarumai Waterfalls 70 Haatuatua Bay 174 Hapatoni 190 Passion 98 Faatemu Bay 107 Hakahau 180-2 Hohoi 182 diving & snorkelling 18, fafaru 224 Hakahetau 182 33-40 Mataiea 64 Faie 98 Hakamaii 182 Ahe 39 Notre-Dame Cathedral Fakarava 159-64, 160 Hakanai Bay 182 Bora Bora 37, 122 of the Marquesas diving 38-9 Hakatea Beach 174 INDEX Islands 169 costs 40 families 218 Hakaui Valley 174-5 Omoa 191 courses 38 Fare 95, 100-1, 103 Hall, James Norman 222 Papetoai 78 decompression Fatu Hiva 191-2, sickness 240 191 Hana Iti Beach 98 C-H Protestant Temple 80 fauna 215-16 Hanahaoe Pass 190 Temple de Paofai 51 dive centres 40 Fenua Aihere 72 Hanahevane Bay 190 Vaitahu 190 Fakarava 38-9, 159, 161 Ferme Perlière Champon 115 Hanaiapa 188-9 ciguatera 241 Huahine 34-5, 98-9 ferries 236-7 cinema, see films live-aboards 40 Hanamenino Bay 190 festivals & events 21-3 climate 16, 21-3, 228, see Makemo 39 Hanamoenoa Bay 190 Australs 198 also individual regions Marquesas 39-40 Hanapaaoa 188 Hawaiki Nui 219 climate change 233 Mataiva 38, 158 Hanatekuua Bay 190 Coastal Defence Guns 122 Maupiti 37, 138-40 Heiva 9, 22, 51, 126, 220, 9 Hanavave 191 Code of Pomare 209 Mo’orea 34, 80-1 Marquesas 180 handicrafts 63, 192, 197, coffee 226 Ra’iatea 35, 109 Fetuna 107 220-1 films 204, 222, 223 Hane 177 Colette Bay 175 Rangiroa 37-8, 36 fish 216-17 cone shells 216, 240 recompression Hapatoni 190 consulates 228 chambers 240 fish poisoning 241 Haranae Petroglyphs 138 Contrôleur Bay 175 responsible diving 37 Fitii 98 Hatiheu 175-80 Cook, Captain James Taha’a 35, 109, 116 food 20, 224-6, 229, Hauru Point 78, 86-8, see also individual 209-10 Tahiti 33-4, 65-6, 72 91-2, 87 locations Cook’s Bay 77, 84-5, 85 Taiohae 171-2 Hawaiki Nui Canoe Race for children 42 coral cuts 240 Tikehau 38, 154 23, 126-7, 219 language 242, 244 coral ear 240 Toau 39 health 239-41 Fort George 197 costs 17, 29, 40 dolphins 176, 216 heat stroke & French language 244 exhaustion 241 Couvent Rouru 202 dolphin-watching 82 fruits 224 hei 221, crabs 216-17 Nuku Hiva 176 19 craft centres 177, 178, Taiohae 170 Heiva 9, 22, 51, 126, 220, 9 187, 202 Tuamotus 145 G hiking 18 credit cards 230 drinking water 226, 240 galleries, see museums Bora Bora 125 cruise ships 236 & galleries drinks 20, 226 Fatu Hiva 191 culture 204-5 Gallery Umatatea 97 driving, see car travel Hiva Oa 185 currency 16, 230 Gambier Archipelago 15, Huahine 100 customs regulations 228 46, 193, 201-2, 15 Mo’orea 83 cycling 235 E accommodation 193 Nuku Hiva 170 ear infections 240 Bora Bora 135 activities 193 Ra’iatea 111 economy 204-5 Huahine 104 climate & Rurutu 195 Eiaone Bay 188 travel seasons 193 Mo’orea 93 Taha’a 116 electricity 229 highlights 194, 194 Rangiroa 154 Tahiti 66, 73 embassies 228 history 201 ’Ua Huka 178 emergencies