Turkey-10-Directory

THUMB DIRECTORY TAB at summer weekends. Ankara (eg Safranbolu)may hike theirprices p659). see Christmas period and major Islamic holidays; (October toApril,butnotduring the season can bediscounted byupto20%duringthelow (KDV); roomprices clude value-addedtax (May andin- for peakseason toSeptember) travellers. Therates quoted inthisbookare and Göreme –mostvisited byindependent – such as for-money pensionsandhotels inalltheplaces budgets withconcentrationsof good,value- Turkey has accommodation optionstosuitall ACCOMMODATION CONTENTS Directory 646 © LonelyPlanetPublications oe rvles 668 Work 668 Women Travellers 667 Visas 667 Tourist Information 665 Toilets 666 Time 666 Telephone 665 Solo Travellers Shopping 663 661 Post 662 Money 661 661 Maps 661 Legal Matters Internet Access Insurance 660 Holidays 659 658 Gay &Lesbian Travellers 658 659 Food 657 Festivals &Events Embassies &Consulates 657 656 Discount Cards Disabled Travellers 654 Dangers &Annoyances 653 Customs 654 Courses 653 651 Climate Charts Children 652 Business Hours 648 Activities Accommodation 646 Places withineasy reach of İ stanbul, Çanakkale, Selçuk, Fethiye Çanakkale,Selçuk, stanbul, İ stanbul and stanbul Marmaris, Dalyan,Fethiye, Side and Antalya, enjoy itsowner’srecommendations, butof inoneplaceyouwillprobably enjoyed staying referring youfromonetoanother. Ifyou’ve many pensionsoperate ininformalchains, on thetravellers’ circuityouwillfindthat Once sites formakingadvancereservations. make yourownbookings. Alanya formuch lessthanyouwouldpayif packages toplacessuch asKu ticular often offer flight-and-accommodation French tourcompaniesinpar- andGerman holiday brochures before leaving home. British, resort,in acoastal check thepricesinpackage- included inthepriceof allaccommodation. Out eastpricesare lower. Breakfast isusually person more inadoubleroom in thecountry–expecttopayatleast€10per elsewhereare thanthose considerablyhigher in placeswelistastopend.Prices welistasmidrange; andmorethose than€55 places welistasbudget options;€25to€55in than €25perperson (sometimesmuch less) in and are usuallyprivately run. Inland,camping Most camping facilitiesare alongthe coasts Camping (eg Ka ested inhiringanapartmentalongthecoast www.holidaylettings.co.uk. Ifyou’re inter- best betistotrywww.ownersdirect.co.uk or have your listed theminthisbook;otherwise thin ontheground.Wherever possiblewe Apartments forholidayrentals are usually Apartments see though; p20 formore information. datestober tolate are April. These variable, frommid-Oc- and campinggroundsclose padocia, thevastmajority of hotels, pensions coastsandinsomepartsof Cap- the BlackSea unseen. to signupanythingsight not youshouldcourse holdhardtoyourright contact localrealcontact agents estate used todealing withforeigners.used hold listsof available holidayrentals andare These daysmostaccommodationhasweb- These Note thatalongtheAegean, Mediterranean, If youare of ormore planningastay aweek In general, youcanexpecttospendless ş , Antalya, Bodrum)yourbest betisto , Antalya, ş adas (emlakci) ı , Bodrum, , Bodrum, İ İ stanbul. stanbul. stanbul stanbul who lonelyplanet.com want torestrict women’s freedom of choice, if forlone women.While we don’tsuitable class Turkish menonbusiness andare not double room)are byworking- mostly used tique. Thecheapest hotels (around€10per Hotels range fromthedirtcheap tothebou- Hotels beds usuallycostfrom€7to€11per night. dormitories intouristydestinations. Dorm thereHowever, are plentyof hostels offering tional YouthHostelling Association (IYHA). totheInterna-places claimtobeaffiliated afewno officialhostel though network,even Given thatpensionsare socheap, Turkey has Hostels around –especiallyouteast. and campwhere there are plenty of people travellers alwayssticktoofficial campsites can beareal threat. Werecommend female also, outeast,wolves andKangal dogs sheep check yououtandpossiblymove you onbut it’s worth.Notonlymaythepolicedropbyto camping groundsisoften more hasslethan person). campingoutsideofficial Otherwise, their facilitiesforasmallfee (€3to€6per will letyoucampintheirgroundsanduse ask aboutathotels andpensions.Often they on theoutskirtsof townsandcities. land tend to bebarren, overcrowded options transport toreach Otherfacilitiesin- these. yourown partment land).Youusuallyneed be on facilities are fairlyrare andare mostlikely to If there are nodesignated campinggrounds,

PRACTICALITIES currentElectrical are is220VAC, Wallsockets European theround,two-pin 50Hz. type. You Turkey usesthemetricsystem for weights and measures. appearon Basicconversion charts Digiturk offers more than300different Euro channels(includingCNN,Fox News, Sports, TV provides TRT3 news broadcastsonSaturdayinFrench (5.15pm),English(7.15pm)andGer- Forthe news inEnglish,pickupthe need asurge protector. shopsforaround€1.7.Powercutsarecan buyadaptorsatmostelectrical oflife afact soyou the insidefrontcover ofthisbook. published three times per year and full of excellent articles onTurkishpublished three timesperyearandfullofexcellentarticles life andculture. Airlines in-flightmagazine, Service canbeheardinsoutherncoastalTurkeyService on1323KHz. BBC PrimeandWorld). in man (10.15pm)on88.2MHz Orman DinlenmeYeri DIRECTORY ••Accommodation DIRECTORY Skylife, (Forestry De- İ stanbul, 91.6 MHz in Antalya and 92.8 MHz inVan. inAntalyaand92.8MHz stanbul, 91.6MHz BBCWorld isanexcellent,glossymonthly magazine, asis Turkish DailyNews serais andother historicbuildings areserais being Increasingly, oldOttoman mansions, caravan- BOUTIQUE HOTELS good, inexpensive bedsare readily available. such asAlanya. Inmostothercitiesandresorts, kara, find really goodcheap roomsare management tends tobe. remote its thelocation,more conservative Turkish. Thecheaper thehotel, andthemore unmarried couplewhenoneof the partiesis stillrefusesome establishments toacceptan ifyouaskedeven foradouble. However, out eastyou’llusuallybegiven atwinroom have anyproblemssharingrooms,although lower (sometimesmuch lower)price. prices; often fora youwillbeable tohaggle paymoreYou shouldnever official thanthese and shouldbedisplayedatthereception desk. pensions. none of the‘extras’thatare commonplacein Turkishbreakfast and offer onlyTurkishTV, normally cleanandcomfortable, however tocatering forwomentravellers.usually used clientele is mainly male. Three-star hotels are sively masculineinatmosphere, whenthe even double roomwithshowerbutare lessoppres- hotelsstar maycostaround€15to€35fora hotel reception, itmaybebetter tomove on. you’re greeted bysilenceandstonystares ina Not surprisingly, the most difficult places to placesto Not surprisingly,themostdifficult Prices are bythelocalauthorities usuallyset Unmarried foreign couplesdon’tusually Hotels inmore traditional Turkish towns, Moving upapricebracket, one-andtwo- İ orthe zmir andpackage-holiday resort towns New Anatolian . The Turkish Cornucopia, İ stanbul, An- stanbul,

647 DIRECTORY DIRECTORY THUMB DIRECTORY TAB at summer weekends. Ankara (eg Safranbolu)may hike theirprices p659). see Christmas period and major Islamic holidays; (October toApril,butnotduring the season can bediscounted byupto20%duringthelow (KDV); roomprices clude value-addedtax (May andin- for peakseason toSeptember) travellers. Therates quoted inthisbookare and Göreme –mostvisited byindependent – such as for-money pensionsandhotels inalltheplaces budgets withconcentrationsof good,value- Turkey has accommodation optionstosuitall ACCOMMODATION CONTENTS Directory 646 © LonelyPlanetPublications oe rvles 668 Work 668 Women Travellers 667 Visas 667 Tourist Information 665 Toilets 666 Time 666 Telephone 665 Solo Travellers Shopping 663 661 Post 662 Money 661 661 Maps 661 Legal Matters Internet Access Insurance 660 Holidays 659 658 Gay &Lesbian Travellers 658 659 Food 657 Festivals &Events Embassies &Consulates 657 656 Discount Cards Disabled Travellers 654 Dangers &Annoyances 653 Customs 654 Courses 653 651 Climate Charts Children 652 Business Hours 648 Activities Accommodation 646 Places withineasy reach of İ stanbul, Çanakkale, Selçuk, Fethiye Çanakkale,Selçuk, stanbul, İ stanbul and stanbul enjoy itsowner’srecommendations, butof inoneplaceyouwillprobably enjoyed staying referring youfromonetoanother. Ifyou’ve many pensionsoperate ininformalchains, on thetravellers’ circuityouwillfindthat Once sites formakingadvancereservations. make yourownbookings. Alanya formuch lessthanyouwouldpayif Marmaris, Dalyan,Fethiye, Side and Antalya, packages toplacessuch asKu ticular often offer flight-and-accommodation French tourcompaniesinpar- andGerman holiday brochures before leaving home. British, resort,in acoastal check thepricesinpackage- included inthepriceof allaccommodation. Out eastpricesare lower. Breakfast isusually person more inadoubleroom in thecountry–expecttopayatleast€10per elsewhereare thanthose considerablyhigher in placeswelistastopend.Prices welistasmidrange; andmorethose than€55 places welistasbudget options;€25to€55in than €25perperson (sometimesmuch less) in and are usuallyprivately run. Inland,camping Most camping facilitiesare alongthe coasts Camping localrealcontact agents estate (eg Ka ested inhiringanapartmentalongthecoast www.holidaylettings.co.uk. Ifyou’re inter- best betistotrywww.ownersdirect.co.uk or have your listed theminthisbook;otherwise thin ontheground.Wherever possiblewe Apartments forholidayrentals are usually Apartments see though; p20 formore information. datestober tolate are April. These variable, frommid-Oc- and campinggroundsclose padocia, thevastmajority of hotels, pensions coastsandinsomepartsof Cap- the BlackSea unseen. to signupanythingsight not youshouldcourse holdhardtoyourright used todealing withforeigners.used hold listsof available holidayrentals andare Note thatalongtheAegean, Mediterranean, daysmostaccommodationhasweb- These If youare of ormore planningastay aweek In general, youcanexpecttospendless ş , Antalya, Bodrum)yourbest betisto , Antalya, ş adas (emlakci) ı , Bodrum, , Bodrum, İ İ stanbul. stanbul. stanbul stanbul who lonelyplanet.com want torestrict women’s freedom of choice, if forlone women.While we don’tsuitable class Turkish menonbusiness andare not double room)are byworking- mostly used tique. Thecheapest hotels (around€10per Hotels range fromthedirtcheap tothebou- Hotels beds usuallycostfrom€7to€11per night. dormitories intouristydestinations. Dorm thereHowever, are plentyof hostels offering tional YouthHostelling Association (IYHA). totheInterna-places claimtobeaffiliated afewno officialhostel though network,even Given thatpensionsare socheap, Turkey has Hostels around –especiallyouteast. and campwhere there are plenty of people travellers alwayssticktoofficial campsites can beareal threat. Werecommend female also, outeast,wolves andKangal dogs sheep check yououtandpossiblymove you on but it’s worth.Notonlymaythepolicedropbyto camping groundsisoften more hasslethan person). campingoutsideofficial Otherwise, their facilitiesforasmallfee (€3to€6per will letyoucampintheirgroundsanduse ask aboutathotels andpensions.Often they on theoutskirtsof townsandcities. land tend to bebarren, overcrowded options transport toreach Otherfacilitiesin- these. yourown partment land).Youusuallyneed be on facilities are fairlyrare andare mostlikely to If there are nodesignated campinggrounds,

PRACTICALITIES currentElectrical are is220VAC, Wallsockets European theround,two-pin 50Hz. type. You Turkey usesthemetricsystem for weights and measures. appearon Basicconversion charts Digiturk offers more than300different Euro channels(includingCNN,Fox News, Sports, TV provides TRT3 news broadcastsonSaturdayinFrench (5.15pm),English(7.15pm)andGer- Forthe news inEnglish,pickupthe Airlines in-flightmagazine, need asurge protector. shopsforaround€1.7.Powercutsarecan buyadaptorsatmostelectrical oflife afact soyou the insidefrontcover ofthisbook. BBC PrimeandWorld). canbeheardinsoutherncoastalTurkeyService on1323KHz. in man (10.15pm)on88.2MHz onTurkishpublished three timesperyearandfullofexcellentarticles life andculture. Orman DinlenmeYeri DIRECTORY ••Accommodation DIRECTORY Skylife, (Forestry De- İ stanbul, 91.6 MHz in Antalya and 92.8 MHz inVan. inAntalyaand92.8MHz stanbul, 91.6MHz BBCWorld isanexcellent,glossymonthly magazine, asis Turkish DailyNews serais andother historicbuildings areserais being Increasingly, oldOttoman mansions, caravan- BOUTIQUE HOTELS good, inexpensive bedsare readily available. such asAlanya. Inmostothercitiesandresorts, kara, find really goodcheap roomsare management tends tobe. remote its thelocation,more conservative Turkish. Thecheaper thehotel, andthemore unmarried couplewhenoneof the partiesis stillrefusesome establishments toacceptan ifyouaskedeven foradouble. However, out eastyou’llusuallybegiven atwinroom have anyproblemssharingrooms,although lower (sometimesmuch lower)price. prices; often fora youwillbeable tohaggle paymoreYou shouldnever official thanthese and shouldbedisplayedatthereception desk. pensions. none of the‘extras’thatare commonplacein Turkishbreakfast and offer onlyTurkishTV, normally cleanandcomfortable, however tocatering forwomentravellers.usually used clientele is mainly male. Three-star hotels are sively masculineinatmosphere, whenthe even double roomwithshowerbutare lessoppres- hotelsstar maycostaround€15to€35fora hotel reception, itmaybebetter tomove on. you’re greeted bysilenceandstonystares ina Not surprisingly, the most difficult places to placesto Not surprisingly,themostdifficult Prices are bythelocalauthorities usuallyset Unmarried foreign couplesdon’tusually Hotels inmore traditional Turkish towns, Moving upapricebracket, one-andtwo- İ orthe zmir andpackage-holiday resort towns New Anatolian . The Turkish Cornucopia, İ stanbul, An- stanbul,

647 DIRECTORY DIRECTORY DIRECTORY ‘tree –rough-and-ready houses’ permanent isfamous forits ranean coast nearAntalya, Olympos ( p379 ), on theWestern Mediter- Tree Houses under noobligation tostay. make itknownyou’re onlylookingandare youletthem take youtothepension Before newly openedpensionsoffering cheap rates. toutsarea budget –asthese often workingfor themup–especially ifyou’reworth taking on sion of theirchoice; sometimesit’s however, offerspolitely declinethese andgotothepen- to playthisgameaswell.Mostpeoplelike to from theowner. Taxi drivers sometimes like their lair,where theymayextractacommission the ownerdied)inhopeof getting youto (it’s burntdown;wasdestroyedbyearthquake; you alineabout thepensionyou’re lookingfor offer youaccommodation.Somemaystring approach youasstep fromyourbusand toutsforthepensionsmay mukkale andSelçuk, k ask localswhere tofindthemandlookoutfor ally advertise theirexistence inaformalway: anyone whospeaksEnglish. Nordotheyusu- normally have extrafacilitiesletalone these let tovisitors atbusytimesof yearandwon’t are thatare simplyroomsinafamilyhouse pansiyonu language. whospeakatleastoneforeignalso have staff traditional small,cheap hotels. Mostpensions facilities thatreally distinguish themfrom etc,andit’sthese services international TV ple meals,bookexchanges, laundryservices, placesusuallyoffer achoiceThese of sim- dorm roomsandsometimesfamilyrooms. double foraround€20/30.Many alsohave kind) where youcanget agood,cleansingle/ (theyarepensions andguesthouses oneof a lers you’llbeable tofindsimplefamily-run In allof thedestinationspopularwithtravel- Pensions &Guesthouses www.nisanyan.net. available inbookshops in Hotel Book, guide; manymore are intheexcellent upper pricerange. Someare describedinthis acter. Mostof optionsare these inthemidto equipped withallmodconsandbagsof char- refurbished orcompletely rebuilt ashotels 648 ı ral In smallertouristtownssuch asFethiye, Pa- In afew placesahandfulof old-style ı IETR •Atvte ••Activities DIRECTORY k oda (home pensions) survive. These These (homepensions)survive. (roomforrent) inthewindows. by Sevan andMüjdeNi bySevan İ stanbul or through orthrough stanbul ş anyan, Little ev

Turkey hastwoway-marked long-distance the windatfamousAlaçat over inahot-airballoonortackle Cappadocia paragliding over Ölüdeniz,catch thebreeze onnoitre thebestplaceforyourtowelwhile gület blissfully doingnothingonthesundeckof a paddling over submerged ruinsnearKa be itthrashing the white-water inYusufeli, take noticeof Turkey. Water sportsabound, Outdoor- activity aficionadoshave to started ACTIVITIES have appeared bythetimeyouread this. Sakl elsewherespawn tree inTurkey houses (egat – see p381 . heard of isolated of cases drugged beverages for odours before youcheck in.Wehave also ming wellawayfromthecampsandcheck to beanongoingchallenge, soconsiderswim- eaten ordrunk.Andsewage treatment seems of guestsfallingillasaresult of whatthey’ve andtherelittle security have instances been connections. Onthenegative side,there’s with bars, communaldiningandinternet platforms. They’re fun,backpacker hang-outs, are real butmanyare tree houses, justtented tings nearthebeach. Afew of places these at Birecik ( p599 ). of the last nestingsites of theeastern bald ibis issues in Turkey. on birdsandconservation who frighten the birds away.See p64 formore often popularwithnoisy,picnickingTurks unfortunatelythe country,although theyare ( ing birds.There are birdsanctuaries several good timestovisitthecountrywatch migrat- versa, andspring andautumnare particularly birds travelling fromnorthtosouthandvice Turkey migration route isonanimportant for Bird-Watching ing intrekking are listed on p87 . various destinationchapters; specialis- those p684 . Othertouroperators are listed inthe tour operators offering activity-based tours on yourhotel,yourself, through orcheck outthe ing are optionsaswell. p78 skiingandmountaineer-), andabseiling, trails, which are popularwithtrekkers (see ku shelters of minimalcomfortinforested set- The successof to Olymposhasstarted All of activitiesyoucanorganise these East ofEast Gaziantep it’spossibletovisitone ş cennetler, ı (woodenyacht). youcanrec- Uphigh kent, nearFethiye). More willprobably bird paradises) dotted about birdparadises) ı . In the mountains, . Inthemountains, lonelyplanet.com ş or in agraceful the Aegean orMediterranean coast, preferably Many peoplewanttotake a boat tripalong Boat Trips lonelyplanet.com endless possibilities,rangingfromdaytrips sponge-diving traditions (see sponge-diving traditions(see p338 ). You can larger, more scene, alegacyof established its read this(see p276 ). Marmaris ( p337 open forexplorationbythetimeyou might ) hasa of wrecks andthepossibility that ahandful coral forexperienceddivers. Italso hasplenty take aPADI course withgoodmarinelife and diving centres. Bodrumisagreat placeto Marmaris, Bodrum andKa Diving see p679 . and cycleallthewaytoIndiaorbeyond. overlanders headouteast:somecrosstoIran places hire bikes. decent mountain Serious ispopular,too,and plentyofCappadocia scenery (see p539 bikingaround ). Mountain bysomebeautiful passes on theBlackSea AmasraandSinop roadbetween The coastal withdetoursand Antalya, tonearbysites. ern Mediterranean Marmaris coastbetween along thecoasts,particularlywest- The mostpopular cycling routes are those Cycling details. for ( p501) ( Askcountry, Cappadocia. at forthegreatesthead straight rockscapeinthe hours overnight oreven (see p364 ). Abseilers to yoursqueals.Youcanorganise tripsforsix ing, andtheicy-coldwaters willaddpunch near Fethiye, isathrillingspotfor canyon- The glorious18km-longSakl Canyoning &Abseiling more see details p356 . See p337 (near Olympos)toFethiye orviceversa; for four-day, three-night boattripfromKale October. marinas. Yachts generally fromMay sail to centre, whileGöcekandAlanyaalsohave the coastline. Marmaris isanotheryachting to chartering a andallthesmallerplacesinbetween Antalya out of Ku and p357 formation onhowtocharter yourown % For practicaltipsoncyclinginTurkey, The mostpopularoptionisprobably the 271 2528;www.middleearthtravel.com

ş for tipsonwhattolookoutfor. adas gület ı DIRECTORY ••Activities DIRECTORY , Bodrum,Marmaris, Fethiye, gület (woodenyacht). There are for a week-long tourof foraweek-long ş are Turkey’s main Middle Earth Travel Earth Middle ı kent Gorge,

) inGöreme for more in- gület

docia. It’sperfectly possibletoarrange these of Van Lake instead (see p636 ). one of themanyoperators offering flights. paraglide with inthe air,youcantandem self October.every Ifyou’re newtodangling your- each otherattheInternational AirGames Turkey, andproscome each yeartochallenge Ölüdeniz ( p359 ) ishometo paragliding in Paragliding TravelMiddle Earth inGöreme ( p501 ). climbs yourself; alternatively to youcould talk Da Da Hasan Da (and cheaper) tooptforclimbingSüphan p589 formore information.Itmaybeeasier extremely patientwithallthebureaucracy. See tobecashed-up,organised and but youneed Ararat (A cantackle famous: MtArarat.Mountaineers Turkey’s highest isalsoitsmost mountain Mountaineering theboxedSee text, p512 , formore details. ofbound tobeoneof yourtrip. thehighlights of theworld’smostfascinating landscapesis trade. It’snotcheap, butlookingdownonone where companies compete foryour several loon thendon’tmiss thechance atCappadocia, If you’ve triedgoingupina never hot-air bal- Hot-Air Ballooning south Aegean coast(see p264 ). DilekNationalParkthe mountainous onthe different durations.Youcanalsoridethrough cies inAvanos ( p513 ) canorganise ridesof exploring onhorseback, andacoupleof agen- theareayou believe, wonderfulfor iscertainly Beautiful Horses’, assomelocalswouldhave of means ‘Land Whether ornotCappadocia Horse-Riding gallery forinspiration! thecountry;checkthroughout outtheirphoto aboutdivingschools groupwithdetails based famous foritsred coral. You canalsodive inAyval at oldWWIwrecks; see p190 Peninsulaoff theGallipoli(Gelibolu) tolook yourself. much nicerplacetobase also dive offKa Two relatively toclimbare easymountains Scubaturk.net A growingnumberof peopleenjoydiving ğ ğ ı ı (MtErciyes;3916m),bothinCappa- (MtSüphan;4434m),onthenorthside ğ ğ r ı ı ( Mt Hasan; 3268m)andErciyes Da (www.scubaturk.net)

ş ğ ’ shores, too( p373 ), andit’sa ı ; 5137m),nearDo ı k ( p213 ), which is

for more details. isan İ ğ stanbul- ubayaz 649

ı t, DIRECTORY DIRECTORY DIRECTORY ‘tree –rough-and-ready houses’ permanent isfamous forits ranean coast nearAntalya, Olympos ( p379 ), onthe Western Mediter- Tree Houses under noobligation tostay. make itknownyou’re onlylookingandare youletthem take youtothepension Before newly openedpensionsoffering cheap rates. toutsarea budget –asthese often workingfor themup–especially ifyou’reworth taking on sion of theirchoice; sometimesit’s however, offerspolitely declinethese andgotothepen- to playthisgameaswell.Mostpeoplelike to from theowner. Taxi drivers sometimeslike their lair,where theymayextractacommission the ownerdied)inhopeof getting youto (it’s burntdown;wasdestroyedbyearthquake; you alineabout thepensionyou’re lookingfor offer youaccommodation.Somemaystring approach youasstep fromyourbusand toutsforthepensionsmay mukkale andSelçuk, k ask localswhere tofindthemandlookoutfor ally advertise theirexistence inaformalway: anyone whospeaksEnglish. Nordotheyusu- normally have extrafacilitiesletalone these let tovisitors atbusytimesof yearandwon’t are thatare simplyroomsinafamilyhouse pansiyonu language. whospeakatleastoneforeignalso have staff traditional small,cheap hotels. Mostpensions facilities thatreally distinguish themfrom etc,andit’sthese services international TV ple meals,bookexchanges, laundryservices, placesusuallyoffer achoiceThese of sim- dorm roomsandsometimesfamilyrooms. double foraround€20/30.Many alsohave kind) where youcanget agood,cleansingle/ (theyarepensions andguesthouses oneof a lers you’llbeable tofindsimplefamily-run In allof thedestinationspopularwithtravel- Pensions &Guesthouses www.nisanyan.net. available inbookshops in Hotel Book, guide; manymore are intheexcellent upper pricerange. Someare describedinthis acter. Mostof optionsare these inthemidto equipped withallmodconsandbagsof char- refurbished orcompletely rebuilt ashotels 648 ı ral In smallertouristtownssuch asFethiye, Pa- In afew placesahandfulof old-style ı IETR •Atvte ••Activities DIRECTORY k oda (home pensions) survive. These These (homepensions)survive. (roomforrent) inthewindows. by Sevan andMüjdeNi bySevan İ stanbul or through orthrough stanbul ş anyan, Little ev

Turkey hastwoway-marked long-distance the windatfamousAlaçat over inahot-airballoonortackle Cappadocia paragliding over Ölüdeniz,catch thebreeze onnoitre thebestplaceforyourtowelwhile gület blissfully doingnothingonthesundeckof a paddling over submerged ruinsnearKa be itthrashing the white-water inYusufeli, take noticeof Turkey. Water sportsabound, Outdoor- activity aficionadoshave to started ACTIVITIES have appeared bythetimeyouread this. Sakl elsewherespawn tree inTurkey houses (egat – see p381 . heard of isolated of cases drugged beverages for odours before youcheck in.Wehave also ming wellawayfromthecampsandcheck to beanongoingchallenge, soconsiderswim- eaten ordrunk.Andsewage treatment seems of guestsfallingillasaresult of whatthey’ve andtherelittle security have instances been connections. Onthenegative side,there’s with bars, communaldiningandinternet platforms. They’re fun,backpacker hang-outs, are real butmanyare tree houses, justtented tings nearthebeach. Afew of places these at Birecik ( p599 ). of the last nestingsites of theeastern bald ibis issues inTurkey. on birdsandconservation who frighten the birds away.See p64 formore often popularwithnoisy,picnickingTurks unfortunatelythe country,although theyare ( ing birds.There are birdsanctuaries several good timestovisitthecountrywatch migrat- versa, andspring andautumnare particularly birds travelling fromnorthtosouthandvice Turkey migration route isonanimportant for Bird-Watching ing intrekking are listed on p87 . various destinationchapters; specialis- those p684 . Othertouroperators are listed inthe tour operators offering activity-based tours on yourhotel,yourself, through orcheck outthe ing are optionsaswell. p78 skiingandmountaineer-), andabseiling, trails, which are popularwithtrekkers (see ku shelters of minimalcomfortinforested set- All of activitiesyoucanorganise these The successof to Olymposhasstarted East ofEast Gaziantep it’spossibletovisitone ş cennetler, ı (woodenyacht). youcanrec- Uphigh kent, nearFethiye). More willprobably bird paradises) dotted about birdparadises) ı . In the mountains, . Inthemountains, lonelyplanet.com ş or endless possibilities,rangingfromdaytrips in agraceful the Aegean orMediterranean coast, preferably Many peoplewanttotake a boat tripalong Boat Trips lonelyplanet.com sponge-diving traditions (see sponge-diving traditions(see p338 ). You can larger, more scene, alegacyof established its read this(see p276 ). Marmaris ( p337 open forexplorationbythetimeyou might ) hasa of wrecks andthepossibility that ahandful coral forexperienceddivers. Italso hasplenty take aPADI course withgoodmarinelife and diving centres. Bodrumisagreat placeto Marmaris, Bodrum andKa Diving see p679 . and cycleallthewaytoIndiaorbeyond. overlanders headouteast:somecrosstoIran places hire bikes. decent mountain Serious ispopular,too,and plentyofCappadocia scenery (see p539 bikingaround ). Mountain bysomebeautiful passes on theBlackSea AmasraandSinop roadbetween The coastal withdetoursand Antalya, tonearbysites. ern Mediterranean Marmaris coastbetween along thecoasts,particularlywest- The mostpopular cycling routes are those Cycling details. for ( p501) ( Askcountry, Cappadocia. at forthegreatesthead straight rockscapeinthe hours overnight oreven (see p364 ). Abseilers to yoursqueals.Youcanorganise tripsforsix ing, andtheicy-coldwaters willaddpunch near Fethiye, isathrillingspotfor canyon- The glorious18km-longSakl Canyoning &Abseiling more see details p356 . See p337 (near Olympos)toFethiye orviceversa; for four-day, three-night boattripfromKale October. marinas. Yachts generally fromMay sail to centre, whileGöcekandAlanyaalsohave the coastline. Marmaris isanotheryachting to chartering a andallthesmallerplacesinbetween Antalya out of Ku and p357 formation onhowtocharter yourown % For practicaltipsoncyclinginTurkey, The mostpopularoptionisprobably the 271 2528;www.middleearthtravel.com

) inGöreme for more in- gület

ş ğ ’ shores, too( p373 ), andit’sa ı ; 5137m),nearDo ı k ( p213 ), which is

for more details. isan İ ğ stanbul- ubayaz 649

ı t, DIRECTORY DIRECTORY DIRECTORY ( p351 toDalyan, alongthe western ), close aspring-watereven swimmingpool. accommodation offerings, yogacourses and towell-being,firmly devoted withrelaxed instruction. which alsohasmeditation join forafew hours, such ( asinAntalya p387 ), tryside, andmanytownshave youcan classes numerable perfect spotsto bringyourmat.Therea yogadevotee are in- like are blossoming over thecountry.Ifyou’re opportunities for yoga, healthretreats andthe therefore foundanaturalhomeinTurkey, and (see opposite ). The well-being industryhas why andyou’llsoonsee (Turkish bathhouse) themselves. Spendanafternoon ina nointroductiontopampering Turks need Well-Being Turkey, see p87 . is very short. side of therange, thesnow-free though season ( p85) coastnearAyder from theeastern BlackSea hiking,whetheryouapproach best mountain (see p78 ) andStPaul’s Trail( p81 ). marked paths: long-distance theLycianWay great placefor trekking. Turkey hastwoway- Whatever of yourlevel ability,Turkey isa Trekking near Ka ispossibleonthePatara River,Canoeing also city of Üça for swimmers. to especially close ( Beach p366 Çe waters, ). Note thatBlackSea near ( p239), nearDalyan( Beach, p351 ); andatAlt on theBodrumpeninsula( p281 ); at ( p263 toEdremit ( ); fromBehramkale p212 ); Bozcaada ( p206 ); intheDilekNationalPark coast. Sea ing andswimming–unlike thechilly Black skiing, snorkelling, sea- kayaking, scubadiv- coasts offer plentifulopportunitiesforwater- September. TheAegean andMediterranean perfect forwater sportsfrommid-May to Turkey’s beautifulcoastsandbeaches are Swimming &WaterSports 650 Kabak ( p363 ) isaremote beach community For more information ontreks available in isamustoverSea-kayaking thesunken The Sultaniye Hot SpringsandMud Baths The Sultaniye The Kaçkar offer Mountains someof the There are excellentswimming beaches on IETR •Atvte ••Activities DIRECTORY

or fromYusufeli ( p572 ) onthesouthern ş (p373). ğ ı z (Kekova) nearKa ş me. Oneof thefinestisPatara İ stanbul, canbetreacherousstanbul, asana ş inthecoun- (see (see p373 ). hamam ı İ nkum ztuzu

comprehensive proscantrytheir courses; cantake – well,it’salmostEurope. Beginners of us,it’sthewindsurfinghotspotof Europe to Alaçat Serious windsurfers nointroduction need Windsurfing Avanos ( p513 ). CheckoutSakl along theK Köprülü Kanyon ( nearAntalya p396 ) and gentler rapidsnearÇaml best intheworld.Otheroptionsincludesome are junkiesswearthese someof the Rapids undiscovered byallbutthose-in-the-know. Gorge nearYusufeli ( p572 ) are relatively The foaming white challenges of theÇoruh White-Water Rafting psoriasis. curingyourskinof supposedly your toes, ( p480 ), where ‘doctor’fishnibbleon teeny the airinsidecaves you’llbecured! near Alanya( p404 ) –apparently ifyouinhale sufferers wanttoheadthetwocaves might Kur anopen-airpoolis spa complexwitheven skin complaintsandrheumatism. Asimilar toaid a mudbathrich said inmineralsalts Mediterranean, isanexcellentstopover for plenty of snow,of course. – but onlyinyears when theresnowshoes is for youtoexplore on beautiful Cappadocia Kirkit Voyage inAvanos ( p513 ) canarrange whereby youwalkover snowonspecialshoes. on theslopesof NemrutDa E near Bursa, andonDavraz Da There isalso decentskiingatUluda andöken skiresort ( p569 ), nearErzurum. especially atthecountry’sbestskifields,Pal- is generally goodandmaylastwellintospring, portunity toafter-party withthelocals.Snow and lesscliqueytheyprovide agreat op- butinfinitelyropean orUSstandards cheaper Ski facilitiesinTurkey are fairly basicbyEu- Winter Sports ing out. hand withkites. It’sdefinitely worthcheck- by thetimeyouread this. resort ineastern Anatoliacould be operating Van; p635 ) whenwevisited, soanotherski near Fethiye, aswell(see p364 ). ğ For a slightly oddtreatFor aslightly visitBal An alternative toskiingissnowshoeing, irdir. skiliftsbeingconstructed Wealsosaw ş unlu Banyo inTermalunlu Banyo ( p287 ). Asthma ı ( p240 ), nearÇe ı z ı l ı rmak andZamant ı hem ş me. Forthe rest ğ lonelyplanet.com ı ğ ş (theonenear in ( p560 ), the ı ( p317 ), near ı kent Gorge, ı ı rivers near kl ğ ı Kapl ( p301 ), ı ca lonelyplanet.com 9am to 7pm Monday to Saturday. During the 9am to7pm MondaytoSaturday. Duringthe to 5pmMonday toFriday.Shops are openfrom usually openfrom 8.30am tonoonand1.30pm Government departments, offices andbanks BUSINESS HOURS want toshave yourlegsorarmpits,youshoulddothisinthe After few allthatvigorousactivity thingscouldbebetter than relaxing inthenearest THE PLEASURESOFTURKISHBATH under your in othersitwouldbeablundertoremove playsafe yourknickers; yourunderwearon bykeeping theamountofmodestyexpected variesconsiderably:insomebathstotalnudityisfine,section, and charge apremium pricefortheprivilege. Intraditional tourist areas some separate times. Openinghoursforwomenare almostinvariablymore restricted thanformen.In The steam roomwillberingedwithindividualbasins sweat forawhile. companions andprotest loudlyatthefirstsignofimpropriety. Women whoacceptamassagefrom malemasseurshouldhave theirmassage withinviewof massaged byotherwomen–noTurkish womanwould letamalemasseuranywhere nearher. know what to expect andwon’tbecomingbackagainanyway–boohiss.know whattoexpect same timetheyhave ontheassumptionthattouristsdon’t reduced thequalityoftheirservice finest oldbathshave raisedpricesfortourists,puttingthemoutofreach formostlocals. At the the leisurely soakisstillalive, albeitonamuchreduced scale. someofthe Andunfortunately sons. Althoughmodernbathroomshave reduced theneedforpublicbathing,traditionof to gossipwithfriends,groomandpamper,formotherssize uppotential matchesfortheir to theTurks. Itwasonceamuch-anticipated weeklyoutingforwomenespecially,anopportunity bathhouse). (Turkish massage canbeanunforgettable andinvigoratingexperience. foran‘oilmassage’,youmaybedisappointed.to paytheextra Elsewhere, however, aTurkish dome. Intouristyareas tobepretty themassageislikely cursoryand,unlessyou’re prepared do itforyou,dousingyouwithwarmwater andthenscrubbingyouwitha a non-Muslim. someone whohascompleted allover theirritualwashwouldhave by tostart againifsoaked the water inthebasin.Alsotrytoavoidsplashingyourneighbours,especiallyonaFridaywhen When sluicingthewater over yourselfwithaplasticscoopyoushouldtrynottogetsoapinto you’d like atthedoor.you’d like Then youenter the when youcrossthethreshold? First up,youusuallyneedtochooseandpayfortheservice spread outonthegreat marbleslabcalledthe during yourtrip.Somemassagesare carriedoutonthefloororatable,butusuallyyou’llbe swab, rinsedoffandshampooed. younevermitten), suspected youhad.Afterwards looseningdirt you’llbelathered withasudsy provided aroundyou.You’llbegiven apairof so to wearprevent slippingonthemarblefloors. Then anattendant willleadyouthroughthe you canundress, store yourclothes,lock up yourvaluablesandwrapthe ğ Traditional Bath etiquette the dictates thatmenshouldkeep But towashyourselfismissmostofthefun.It’sfarmore enjoyabletoletanattendant When allthisiscomplete having atleastonce youcanhave amassage,anexperienceworth It’s cheapesttowashyourselfwiththesoap,shampooandtowelyoubroughtyou. Many peoplefeel anxious thefirsttimetheygotoa The steam bathwasaninstitutionthatpassedfromtheRomanstoByzantines,andthence ukluk (coldroom,thoughit’susuallywarm)tothe pe ş hamams DIRECTORY ••BusinessHours DIRECTORY tamal hamams untilinsidethehotroomwhere youcandecide whatisappropriate. Ifyou have separate formenandwomenoradmitat sections are more than happyforforeign menandwomentobathetogether camekan nal göbekta ı n is generally shortened to2pmor3pm. theworking day During the monthof Ramazan begins at7amor 8amandfinishesat2pm. ing theAegean andMediterranean regions, summer theworking dayinsomecities,includ- (woodenclogs),whichyou’llneedtoattempt , where you’llbeshowntoacubiclewhere pe (kurna) ş hararet ı ş (bellystone)beneaththegreat central tamal hamam , thatyoufillfromthetapsabove. hamams (steam room)where yousitand camekan onatalltimes. Inthewomen’s . Sowhatshouldyouexpect , womenare washedand ratherthaninthebath. pe ş kese temal (acoarsecloth (cloth) that’s hamam

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DIRECTORY DIRECTORY DIRECTORY ( p351 toDalyan, alongthe western ), close aspring-watereven swimmingpool. accommodation offerings, yogacourses and towell-being,firmly devoted withrelaxed instruction. which alsohasmeditation join forafew hours, such ( asinAntalya p387 ), tryside, andmanytownshave youcan classes numerable perfect spotsto bringyourmat.Therea yogadevotee are in- like are blossoming over thecountry.Ifyou’re opportunities for yoga, healthretreats andthe therefore foundanaturalhomeinTurkey, and (see opposite ). Thewell-being industryhas why andyou’llsoonsee (Turkish bathhouse) themselves. Spendanafternoon ina nointroductiontopampering Turks need Well-Being Turkey, see p87 . is very short. side of therange, thesnow-free though season ( p85) coastnearAyder from theeastern BlackSea hiking,whetheryouapproach best mountain (see p78 ) andStPaul’s Trail( p81 ). marked paths: long-distance theLycianWay great placefor trekking. Turkey hastwoway- Whatever of yourlevel ability,Turkey isa Trekking near Ka ispossibleonthePatara River,Canoeing also city of Üça for swimmers. to especially close ( Beach p366 Çe waters, ). Note thatBlackSea near ( p239), nearDalyan( Beach, p351 ); andatAlt on theBodrumpeninsula( p281 ); at ( p263 toEdremit ( ); fromBehramkale p212 ); Bozcaada ( p206 ); intheDilekNationalPark coast. Sea ing andswimming–unlike thechilly Black skiing, snorkelling, sea- kayaking, scubadiv- coasts offer plentifulopportunitiesforwater- September. TheAegean andMediterranean perfect forwater sportsfrommid-May to Turkey’s beautifulcoastsandbeaches are Swimming &WaterSports 650 Sea-kayaking isamustoverSea-kayaking thesunken Kabak ( p363 ) isaremote beach community For more information ontreks available in The Sultaniye Hot SpringsandMud Baths The Sultaniye The Kaçkar offer Mountains someof the There are excellentswimming beaches on IETR •Atvte ••Activities DIRECTORY

comprehensive proscantrytheir courses; cantake – well,it’salmostEurope. Beginners of us,it’sthewindsurfinghotspotof Europe to Alaçat Serious windsurfers nointroduction need Windsurfing Avanos ( p513 ). CheckoutSakl along theK Köprülü Kanyon ( nearAntalya p396 ) and gentler rapidsnearÇaml best intheworld.Otheroptionsincludesome are junkiesswearthese someof the Rapids undiscovered byallbutthose-in-the-know. Gorge nearYusufeli ( p572 ) are relatively The foaming white challenges of theÇoruh White-Water Rafting psoriasis. curingyourskinof supposedly your toes, ( p480 ), where ‘doctor’fishnibbleon teeny the airinsidecaves you’llbecured! near Alanya( p404 ) –apparently ifyouinhale sufferers wanttoheadthetwocaves might Kur anopen-airpoolis spa complexwitheven skin complaintsandrheumatism. Asimilar toaid a mudbathrich said inmineralsalts Mediterranean, isanexcellentstopover for plenty of snow,of course. – but onlyinyears when theresnowshoes is for youtoexplore on beautiful Cappadocia Kirkit Voyage inAvanos ( p513 ) canarrange whereby youwalkover snowonspecialshoes. on theslopesof NemrutDa E near Bursa, andonDavraz Da There isalso decentskiingatUluda andöken skiresort ( p569 ), nearErzurum. especially atthecountry’sbestskifields,Pal- is generally goodandmaylastwellintospring, portunity toafter-party withthelocals.Snow and lesscliqueytheyprovide agreat op- butinfinitelyropean orUSstandards cheaper Ski facilitiesinTurkey are fairly basicbyEu- Winter Sports ing out. hand withkites. It’sdefinitely worthcheck- near Fethiye, aswell(see p364 ). by thetimeyouread this. resort ineastern Anatoliacould be operating Van; p635 ) whenwevisited, soanotherski ğ An alternative toskiingissnowshoeing, oddtreatFor aslightly visitBal irdir. skiliftsbeingconstructed Wealsosaw ş unlu Banyo inTermalunlu Banyo ( p287 ). Asthma ı ( p240 ), nearÇe ı z ı l ı rmak andZamant ı hem ş me. Forthe rest ğ lonelyplanet.com ı ğ ş (theonenear in ( p560 ), the ı ( p317 ), near ı kent Gorge, ı ı rivers near kl ğ ı Kapl ( p301 ), ı ca lonelyplanet.com 9am to 7pm Monday to Saturday. During the 9am to7pm MondaytoSaturday. Duringthe to 5pmMonday toFriday.Shops are openfrom usually openfrom 8.30am tonoonand1.30pm Government departments, offices and banks BUSINESS HOURS want toshave yourlegsorarmpits,youshoulddothisinthe under your in othersitwouldbeablundertoremove playsafe yourknickers; yourunderwearon bykeeping theamountofmodestyexpected variesconsiderably:insomebathstotalnudityisfine,section, After few allthatvigorousactivity thingscouldbebetter than relaxing inthenearest THE PLEASURESOFTURKISHBATH The steam roomwillberingedwithindividualbasins sweat forawhile. companions andprotest loudlyatthefirstsignofimpropriety. Women whoacceptamassagefrom malemasseurshouldhave theirmassage withinviewof massaged byotherwomen–noTurkish womanwould letamalemasseuranywhere nearher. and charge apremium pricefortheprivilege. Intraditional tourist areas some separate times. Openinghoursforwomenare almostinvariablymore restricted thanformen.In massage canbeanunforgettable andinvigoratingexperience. foran‘oilmassage’,youmaybedisappointed.to paytheextra Elsewhere, however, aTurkish dome. Intouristyareas tobepretty themassageislikely cursoryand,unlessyou’re prepared do itforyou,dousingyouwithwarmwater andthenscrubbingyouwitha a non-Muslim. someone whohascompleted allover theirritualwashwouldhave by tostart againifsoaked the water inthebasin.Alsotrytoavoidsplashingyourneighbours,especiallyonaFridaywhen When sluicingthewater over yourselfwithaplasticscoopyoushouldtrynottogetsoapinto andwon’tbecomingbackagainanyway–boohiss.know whattoexpect same timetheyhave ontheassumptionthattouristsdon’t reduced thequalityoftheirservice finest oldbathshave raisedpricesfortourists,puttingthemoutofreach formostlocals. At the the leisurely soakisstillalive, albeitonamuchreduced scale. someofthe Andunfortunately sons. Althoughmodernbathroomshave reduced theneedforpublicbathing,traditionof to gossipwithfriends,groomandpamper,formotherssize uppotential matchesfortheir to theTurks. Itwasonceamuch-anticipated weeklyoutingforwomenespecially,anopportunity bathhouse). (Turkish spread outonthegreat marbleslabcalledthe during yourtrip.Somemassagesare carriedoutonthefloororatable,butusuallyyou’llbe swab, rinsedoffandshampooed. younevermitten), suspected youhad.Afterwards looseningdirt you’llbelathered withasudsy provided aroundyou.You’llbegiven apairof atthedoor.you’d like Then youenter the when youcrossthethreshold? First up,youusuallyneedtochooseandpayfortheservice so to wearprevent slippingonthemarblefloors. Then anattendant willleadyouthroughthe you canundress, store yourclothes,lock up yourvaluablesandwrapthe ğ Traditional Bath etiquette the dictates thatmenshouldkeep But towashyourselfismissmostofthefun.It’sfarmore enjoyabletoletanattendant When allthisiscomplete having atleastonce youcanhave amassage,anexperienceworth It’s cheapesttowashyourselfwiththesoap,shampooandtowelyoubroughtyou. Many peoplefeel anxious thefirsttimetheygotoa The steam bathwasaninstitutionthatpassedfromtheRomanstoByzantines,andthence ukluk (coldroom,thoughit’susuallywarm)tothe pe ş hamams DIRECTORY ••BusinessHours DIRECTORY tamal hamams untilinsidethehotroomwhere youcandecide whatisappropriate. Ifyou have separate formenandwomenoradmitat sections are more than happyforforeign menandwomentobathetogether camekan nal göbekta ı n is generally shortened to2pmor3pm. theworking day During the monthof Ramazan begins at7amor 8amandfinishesat2pm. ing theAegean andMediterranean regions, summer theworking dayinsomecities,includ- (woodenclogs),whichyou’llneedtoattempt , where you’llbeshowntoacubiclewhere pe (kurna) ş hararet ı ş (bellystone)beneaththegreat central tamal hamam , thatyoufillfromthetapsabove. hamams (steam room)where yousitand camekan onatalltimes. Inthewomen’s . Sowhatshouldyouexpect , womenare washedand ratherthaninthebath. pe ş kese temal (acoarsecloth (cloth) that’s hamam

651

DIRECTORY DIRECTORY DIRECTORY shops are usuallyopenfromaround8amto you have?) let usknow! baby-changing facility inthecountry please local brands.Oh, andifyoufindapublic supermarkets –don’t botherwiththecheaper soldinpharmaciesand Prima orHuggies, are readily available. Thebestbrandsare in restaurants are theexception, nottherule. fied ricecereal inallsupermarkets. chairs High same. Youcanbuyformulaandvitamin-forti- and no-oneislikely tomindyoudoingthe breast-feed their babies (discreetly) inpublic dishes foryourchildren. MostTurkishwomen topreparehotel and restaurant staff special the country.Alternatively youcouldrely on markets have thebestrange of babyfoodin bringing asupplywithyou.Migrossuper- you couldeasilyprepare yourself.Consider inedible oritwillbemashedbanana,which do findyourbaby will understandably find Also hardtofindisbaby food,andwhatyou everywhere, butfresh milkishardertofind. varm çocuklariniz person’s children, present orabsent: want tomake polite inquiriesabout theother erkek inTurkishand sex – wanttolearnyourchild’swill. Youmight age of strangers, againsthis/her sometimeseven and yourchild clutched intotheadoringarms be peppered with young child’s thestreets journeythrough will be welcomedwherever theygo. Yourbaby or trepiece of familylife andyourchildren will for inTurkey, buttheyare thebeloved cen- Çocuklar Practicalities CHILDREN tomer hasleft. 9am untillateorthelastcus- atnight, 1½totwohoursclose later. usuallyopenhalfanhourearlierand seums cially in normal workingdayinTurkey. on Sunday.Friday,theMuslimSabbath,isa or 8pmdaily;othershopsare usuallyclosed cery shopsare usuallyopenfrom7amto7pm 11pm orlater ifit’svery busy.Elsewhere, gro- 652 Pasteurised UHTmilkissoldincartons In touristareas foodandsouvenir/carpet Disposable Disposable Internet cafésusuallyopenfromaround Many onMonday,espe- close museums IETR •Cide ••Children DIRECTORY (boy)and İ stanbul. FromApriltoOctober mu- stanbul. ( children) maynotbewellcatered bebek bezi k Ma ı ı ? z (howmanychildren do (girl). You might also (girl).Youmight ş allah ay (nappiesordiapers) (month), (glory betoGod) yil kaç tane (year), museums wouldleavemuseums thembored totears, in (p123) museum MKoçWith theexceptionof theRahmi have designedwithchildren been inmind. Turkey have doesn’t alotof attractionsthat aside,interms anddo of thingstosee Beaches Sights &Activities possible. to make travel withchildren asstress-free as of practicalinformationandadviceonhow Children, for children –see p690 formore information. scriptions youmaybegiven whileinTurkey stroller anextreme sport. treacherous roadsurfacesmake travelling by for asmallextracharge. and InTurkey, traffic rental companiesprovide child-safety seats bethebestoption.Mostcar-mobiles might have toiletsonboard;trains,planesorauto- neys canbevery donot longandthatbuses safety before it. lettingyourchild use the situationisgrim.Checkequipmentfor equipment, butelsewhere, including Many townshave of theseaside children’s play andagenciesand farbetween are nonexistent. ifyouask,butkids’clubsare few ting service streets. Serious potholes, opendrainage and streets. Serious ontheelectric mains andopen stairwells open powerpoints inhotels, crudelycovered signed playequipment (grrr).Watch outfor mentioned thebroken-down andpoorlyde- parents’ andwe’ve mindsconstantly, already mustbeattheforefrontUSA. Thetraffic of norms of countriessuch astheUKor ideas of safety consciousnessrarely the meet Parents toremember need that inTurkey Safety Precautions dwellings andkookylandscapes. withitsunderground cities,caveCappadocia, try mostlikely toappealolderchildren is rafting allgreat options. horse-riding, snorkelling andwhite-water ing, ballooningand,dependingontheirage, İ ideas onhowtokeep yourkidsentertained in accessible andworthyof mention.Forother and there are nozoos oractivitycentres easily stanbul, see see stanbul, p134 . Check outLonelyPlanet’s Most hotels canarrange somesortof babysit- Apart fromthecoasts,area of thecoun- Activity optionsare abetter bet,withboat- Always doublecheck of thesuitability pre- torememberIt’s important thatbusjour- by Cathy Lanigan, which haslots Lanigan, byCathy İ stanbul, mostTurkishstanbul, lonelyplanet.com Travel with İ stanbul, stanbul, -10 40 050 10 086 30 068 20 032 -10 C°F °C 10 40 30 20 0 Wise key, youmaywanttoget sometipsfrom of life inTurkey. carelessly secured buildingsites are alsoa fact lonelyplanet.com and Augusttemperatures rapidlyand rise sometimes fallingtoaround-12°C.InJuly toApril,withtemperaturescember through Turkey withsnowfromDe- isunpassable extremes become,sothatmuch of eastern travel, themore climatic pronouncedthese sively hotsummers. Thefurthereastyou with theirextremely coldwinters andexces- hot, humidsummers, andtheinlandareas with itsmoderate winter temperatures and distinctionsareportant thecoast between view of mostcasualvisitors, themostim- tinct climatic regions, butfromthepointof For meteorologists, Turkey dis- hasseven CLIMATE CHARTS Î Î ANTALYA -10 ZM STANBUL C°F °C C°F °C 10 40 30 20 If youlookingforchildcare whileinTur- 0

JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND (www.childwise.net/choose-with-care-php). (www.childwise.net/choose-with-care-php). Î R epRainfall Temp Temp Temp 28m (92ft) 104 14 57m (187ft) 28m (75ft) DIRECTORY ••ClimateCharts DIRECTORY 10 12 10 12 12 in in in 2 4 6 8 104 0 2 4 6 8 4 6 8 32 2 0 0 14 68 86 50 104 32 14 68 86 50 JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND Rainfall Rainfall 10 Max/Min Max/Min Max/Min Average Average Average 0 50 100 150 200 250 300 100 0 50 100 150 200 250 300 0 50 150 200 250 mm Child mm mm C°F °C turkey.com all-inclusive cookingretreat week-long ina east! See east! See p629 formore information. rarity anywhere inthecountry,letaloneout lia. Comehere forlessonsbyfemale chefs –a rant ingorgeous Mardin, southeastern Anato- runscookeryBaydemir, courses inherrestau- murat.com inTurkish attimeofresearch Kona Murat Cercis Cookery COURSES ( p19 ) formore information. chapter Started When toGointheGetting warmer. Europebutpleasantly Central See moderate temperatures, makingitratherlike the nationalaverage rainfall,alongwithmore very uncomfortable. 45°C,makingtravelcan exceed intheeast JFMAMJJASOND VAN TRABZON KAYSERI -10 -10 -10 The Black Sea coastgets twotothree times The BlackSea Gökpinar Retreat C°F °C °F °C 10 40 10 40 10 40 30 30 30 20 20 20 0 0 0 JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND 300 1727m (5666ft) ), run by Caravan Travel,), runbyCaravan offers an Temp Temp Temp 1067m (3503ft) 191m (626ft) ğ ı (

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100 100 100 0 50 150 200 250 0 50 150 200 250 0 50 150 200 250 mm mm mm DIRECTORY DIRECTORY 300 300 300 DIRECTORY shops are usuallyopenfromaround8amto you have?) let usknow! baby-changing facility inthecountry please local brands.Oh, andifyoufindapublic supermarkets –don’t botherwiththecheaper soldinpharmaciesand Prima orHuggies, are readily available. Thebestbrandsare in restaurants are theexception, nottherule. fied ricecereal inallsupermarkets. chairs High same. Youcanbuyformulaandvitamin-forti- and no-oneislikely tomindyoudoingthe breast-feed their babies (discreetly) inpublic dishes foryourchildren. MostTurkishwomen topreparehotel and restaurant staff special the country.Alternatively youcouldrely on markets have thebestrange of babyfoodin bringing asupplywithyou.Migrossuper- you couldeasilyprepare yourself.Consider inedible oritwillbemashedbanana,which do findyourbaby will understandably find Also hardtofindisbaby food,andwhatyou everywhere, butfresh milkishardertofind. varm çocuklariniz person’s children, present orabsent: want tomake polite inquiriesabout theother erkek inTurkishand sex – wanttolearnyourchild’swill. Youmight age of strangers, againsthis/her sometimeseven and yourchild clutched intotheadoringarms be peppered with young child’s thestreets journeythrough will be welcomedwherever theygo. Yourbaby or trepiece of familylife andyourchildren will for inTurkey, buttheyare thebeloved cen- Çocuklar Practicalities CHILDREN tomer hasleft. 9am untillateorthelastcus- atnight, 1½totwohoursclose later. usuallyopenhalfanhourearlierand seums cially in normal workingdayinTurkey. on Sunday.Friday,theMuslimSabbath,isa or 8pmdaily;othershopsare usuallyclosed cery shopsare usuallyopenfrom7amto7pm 11pm orlater ifit’svery busy.Elsewhere, gro- 652 In touristareas foodandsouvenir/carpet Pasteurised UHTmilkissoldincartons Disposable Disposable Internet cafésusuallyopenfromaround Many onMonday,espe- close museums IETR •Cide ••Children DIRECTORY (boy)and İ stanbul. FromApriltoOctober mu- stanbul. ( children) maynotbewellcatered bebek bezi k Ma ı ı ? z (howmanychildren do (girl). You might also (girl).Youmight ş allah ay (nappiesordiapers) (month), (glory betoGod) yil kaç tane (year), museums wouldleavemuseums thembored totears, in (p123) museum MKoçWith theexceptionof theRahmi have designedwithchildren been inmind. Turkey have doesn’t alotof attractionsthat aside,interms anddo of thingstosee Beaches Sights &Activities possible. to make travel withchildren asstress-free as of practicalinformationandadviceonhow Children, for children –see p690 formore information. scriptions youmaybegiven whileinTurkey stroller anextreme sport. treacherous roadsurfacesmake travelling by for asmallextracharge. and InTurkey, traffic rental companiesprovide child-safety seats bethebestoption.Mostcar-mobiles might have toiletsonboard;trains,planesorauto- neys canbevery donot longandthatbuses safety before it. lettingyourchild use the situationisgrim.Checkequipmentfor equipment, butelsewhere, including Many townshave of theseaside children’s play andagenciesand farbetween are nonexistent. ifyouask,butkids’clubsare few ting service streets. Serious potholes, opendrainage and streets. Serious ontheelectric mains andopen stairwells open powerpoints inhotels, crudelycovered signed playequipment (grrr).Watch outfor mentioned thebroken-down andpoorlyde- parents’ andwe’ve mindsconstantly, already mustbeattheforefrontUSA. Thetraffic of norms of countriessuch astheUKor ideas of safety consciousnessrarely the meet Parents toremember need that inTurkey Safety Precautions dwellings andkookylandscapes. withitsunderground cities,caveCappadocia, try mostlikely toappealolderchildren is rafting allgreat options. horse-riding, snorkelling andwhite-water ing, ballooningand,dependingontheirage, İ ideas onhowtokeep yourkidsentertained in accessible andworthyof mention.Forother and there are nozoos oractivitycentres easily stanbul, see see stanbul, p134 . Apart fromthecoasts,area of thecoun- Activity optionsare abetter bet,withboat- Check outLonelyPlanet’s Most hotels canarrange somesortof babysit- Always doublecheck of thesuitability pre- torememberIt’s important thatbusjour- by Cathy Lanigan, which haslots Lanigan, byCathy İ stanbul, mostTurkishstanbul, lonelyplanet.com Travel with İ stanbul, stanbul, -10 40 050 10 086 30 068 20 032 -10 C°F °C 10 40 30 20 0 Wise key, youmaywanttoget sometipsfrom of life inTurkey. carelessly secured buildingsites are alsoa fact lonelyplanet.com and Augusttemperatures rapidlyand rise sometimes fallingtoaround-12°C.InJuly toApril,withtemperaturescember through Turkey withsnowfromDe- isunpassable extremes become,sothatmuch of eastern travel, themore climatic pronouncedthese sively hotsummers. Thefurthereastyou with theirextremely coldwinters andexces- hot, humidsummers, andtheinlandareas with itsmoderate winter temperatures and distinctionsareportant thecoast between view of mostcasualvisitors, themostim- tinct climatic regions, butfromthepointof For meteorologists, Turkey dis- hasseven CLIMATE CHARTS Î Î ANTALYA -10 ZM STANBUL C°F °C C°F °C 10 40 30 20 If youlookingforchildcare whileinTur- 0

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100 100 100 0 50 150 200 250 0 50 150 200 250 0 50 150 200 250 mm mm mm DIRECTORY DIRECTORY 300 300 300 DIRECTORY pay from €25perhour;tutors often advertise hours of teaching spread over fourweeks. from€280for80 your classmates. Pricesstart perience definitely dependson theteacher and before youcommit,asthequalityof yourex- risk of asktositinonaclass disappointment, have the theirfansanddetractors. Tolessen right ) are themostpopularschools, butboth the country.TömerandTaksim Dilmer(see Ankara, thereTurkish, though are alsocourses in İ Language have asmanyorfew lessonsasyou’dlike. İ and 12hours of lessons.Anotheroptionin Bodrum from€490,includingmeals,transfers from ApriltoNovember atitsretreat near key.com Gökpinar Retreat Belly-dancing are afew lessattendees. are capped at10,butworkbetter whenthere rooftop topolish theresults. off Groupsizes cost €40.After thelesson,youadjournto ish cookery inEnglish, French andDutch İ sarnichotel.com; KüçükAyasofyaCaddesi26,Sultanahmet, atthe classes specialities you’re probably better withthe off duction towhippingupafew Turkish tasty tours of Turkish team have recently gourmet started at yournextdinnersoiree. TheAustralian– less, andyou’re top-classkudos guaranteed century Ottomanpalaceculinaryculture, no Add oneof theirlectures on15th-and16th- (€20to€170)aresessions foodies. forserious professional two-to20-hour kitchen. These runs small-group workshops inacosysemi- tanbulfoodworkshop.com; Y cuisinetoursweek (€1050). com taste-testing. waistline maybetheperfect antidote toaday’s carpet weaving the orbellydancing.Jiggling ning attheretreat such simultaneously, as are sometimesotherlow-key courses run- small village outof Bodrumfor€500.There 654 stanbul). stanbul is stanbul stanbul isthe stanbul most popularplacetolearn If you’d prefer private tuition expectto If you’re more interested inano-fuss intro- İ Travel Heritage ), based inGöreme, runsone- ), based Cappadocia, stanbul FoodWorkshop IETR •Csos ••Customs DIRECTORY ) runs week-long bellydancingcourses ) runsweek-long

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lu, DIRECTORY DIRECTORY DIRECTORY pay from €25perhour;tutors often advertise hours of teaching spread over fourweeks. from€280for80 your classmates. Pricesstart perience definitely dependson theteacher and before youcommit,asthequalityof yourex- risk of asktositinonaclass disappointment, have the theirfansanddetractors. Tolessen right ) are themostpopularschools, butboth the country.TömerandTaksim Dilmer(see Ankara, thereTurkish, though are alsocourses in İ Language have asmanyorfew lessonsasyou’dlike. İ and 12hours of lessons.Anotheroptionin Bodrum from€490,includingmeals,transfers from ApriltoNovember atitsretreat near key.com Gökpinar Retreat Belly-dancing are afew lessattendees. are capped at10,butworkbetter whenthere rooftop topolish theresults. off Groupsizes cost €40.After thelesson,youadjournto ish cookery inEnglish, French andDutch İ sarnichotel.com; KüçükAyasofyaCaddesi26,Sultanahmet, atthe classes specialities you’re probably better withthe off duction towhippingupafew Turkish tasty tours of Turkish team have recently gourmet started at yournextdinnersoiree. TheAustralian– less, andyou’re top-classkudos guaranteed century Ottomanpalaceculinaryculture, no Add oneof theirlectures on15th-and16th- (€20to€170)aresessions foodies. forserious professional two-to20-hour kitchen. These runs small-group workshops inacosysemi- tanbulfoodworkshop.com; Y cuisinetoursweek (€1050). com taste-testing. waistline maybetheperfect antidote toaday’s carpet weaving the orbellydancing.Jiggling ning attheretreat such simultaneously, as are sometimesotherlow-key courses run- small village outof Bodrumfor€500.There 654 stanbul). stanbul is stanbul stanbul isthe stanbul most popularplacetolearn If you’re more interested inano-fuss intro- İ Travel Heritage If you’d prefer private tuition expectto ), based inGöreme, runsone- ), based Cappadocia, stanbul FoodWorkshop IETR •Csos ••Customs DIRECTORY ) runs week-long bellydancingcourses ) runsweek-long

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lonelyplanet.com Turkish people, theTurkish Republicetcare of the Turkishflag,theing light Atatürk, The lawsagainst insulting, defamingormak- Lese-Majesty be eradicating. they’re to alarming astheinsects supposed dubious cloudsof noxious fumestobeas dinner. considerthese Somepeople might downonaterrace for hasjustsat everyone usually atabout when thetimeinevening ing outvansthatbelch repellent intothesky, the more general problem of bysend- insects repellent.least toslatheryourself withinsect remember tocover yourarmsandlegsorat mosquito coilstoburnaswell.As duskfalls, busters, butit’sagoodideatobringyourown come equippedwithnetsand/orplug-inbug- along thecoastanightmare. Somehotel rooms canmake summer,mosquitoes astay In high Flies &Mosquitoes the situationbefore out. setting issue isfarfromresolved, sobesure tocheck have largely theKurdish subsided.However, southeast issafe astheunrest there appears to guard atalltimes. children tobeontheir inparticularwillneed are changing slowly,butparents of young dolmu howsafe askyourself itisfora Don’t even on beaches are conspicuousbytheirabsence. police officerbefore beingreleased; lifeguards are wornonlyaslongittakes todrive pasta precipitous dropsgounguarded;safety belts in pavements gounmendedandunlitatnight; anyone lurkingnearATMs. other crowdedplaces.Keep aneyeoutfor simultaneously countingoutchange!simultaneously Things In sometownstheauthoritiestrytocombat At thetimeof writing,travelling inthe In Turkey alow priority.Holes safety seems monwealth Office. www.smartraveller.gov.au the followingwebsites: For thelatest travel informationlogonto TRAVEL ADVISORIES State/Bureau ofConsularAffairs. www.travel.state.gov www.fco.gov.uk/travel Service. Government’s TravelAdvisory&ConsularAssistance ş driver tobenegotiatingabendwhile DIRECTORY ••Dangers&Annoyances DIRECTORY US Department of USDepartment UKForeign &Com- Australian est ATM and‘persuaded’ up.Ifthis tocough on you–you’llbefrogmarched tothenear- on it.It’snogoodclaimingyouhave nocash girls’ outrageously expensive drinksappear out. Whenthebillarrives, loandbeholdthe girls bywhich timeit’swaytoolate toback go intoabarandare approached bysome Would youlike togoalong?Woohoo! You as there’s nowhere topartyinSultanahmet. it’s worth mentioningnonetheless. Inthis or allof their moneyback. policeman backto thebarandreceived some tourist police;some travellers have taken the happens toyoumake sure youreport ittothe friendsforadrinkinBeyo off tomeet chattingshop, youstart away.He’s he’s says withacarpet you realise he’snotaffiliated andonce tion. After your initialhesitation, upaconversa-dapper youngmanwhostarts whenyou’reSultanahmet, approached bya ably knowthescene:you’re strollingthrough – itmostlyhappensin single menisthenightclub-bar shake-down İ paytobecareful,scams, itdoes especiallyin it wouldn’tdotobeparanoidaboutpotential always beafew sharksinthemix.Although coming countriesontheplanet,butthere will Turkey is oneof thefriendliestandmostwel- Scams &Druggings ifyouhavetions, even tojumpoutof theway. man. Give waytocars andtrucksinallsitua- ofthing asright way, despite thelittlegreen 18hours. forastraight wheel being driven bysomeonewhomaybeatthe company withrelief drivers, ratherthanrisk moreit’s worthpayingslightly abus touse information. Whentravelling longdistances, along withunlittrailers. See p681 formore country roadswhere tractors maybeambling todriveIt’s particularlyunwise inthedarkon that youmustdrive defensively atalltimes. when itcomestoroadsafety, which means Unfortunately Turkey hasaterrible record Traffic carted off tojail. a quarrel, which toget isenough theforeigner stanbul. been knowntoclaimtheywerebeen intheheatof such remarks were made,Turkshave never if warnedthateven taken very Be seriously. Drugging isn’tacommon problem, but Drugging One of themostpopularscams targeted at As apedestriannote thatthere isnosuch İ stanbul. Youprob- stanbul. 655

lu, DIRECTORY DIRECTORY DIRECTORY butt outifyouaskthemto. usually smoke-free. Taxi drivers willusually bars andhotel lobbies. Public transportis have toendure smokinginrestaurants, cafés, you’ll board, butuntiltheycomeintoeffect Anti-smokinglawsareright! onthedrawing withhis the gear wheel stickandthesteering a newbornwithhislefthandandcigarette, Our favourite examplewasadriver holding Turks smoke here, there andeverywhere. Smoking more information. drugged atacampinOlympos.See p381 for male travellers claimingtohave theirdrinks they are shady characters. choice; ifthey’re notkeen togo,chances are invite yournew-found friendstoabarof very carefully beforehand. Youcouldalso large citieswithoutsizingthesituationup fromunknownfolkin not acceptinvitations gone wrong. Most likely hewasavictimof adrugging body wasfoundontheoutskirtsof this unluckyyoungman–amonthlater his a Korean tourist,mostlocalsknewthefate of missing person billboardsin2005wentupfor missingto yourshoes, –orworse. Whenthe down location withallyourbelongings,right spiked andwakingupinsomeunexpected for thisone,andyouriskfindingyourdrink accompanied bythefigleafof awoman.Fall from Egypt orRomaniaandoften orLebanon or three so-calledfriends,often claiming tobe situation asingleguyisapproached bytwo 656 We’ve alsoheardreports about twofe- Moral of stories?Singlemenshould these see everything. the steps, totheastonishmentofonlookers. small withhandheldshowers. Accessibletoiletswere rare, andmostwere squattoilets. people were bothfriendlyandhelpful.The bathroomsmostlyhadonestep intothem andwere and downlotsofsteps. This proved tobemore rewarding thanexpensive hotels, though,asthe chose tostayinhostels hadtobumpmeup and pensions,andthisoften meantmypartner helpful. Whenever wefacedadilemmathere ofwillinghelpers. wasnever ashortage ficulties, butnomore thanwhenItravel aroundEurope. places are notaccessible. Travelling aroundTurkey forsixweekswasatotaljoy.Ihadsomedif- I amaC6,C7quadriplegic wholoves totravel. whoassistsmewhere Itravel withmypartner HAVE WHEELS,WILLTRAVEL IETR •Dsbe rvles ••DisabledTravellers DIRECTORY A lotoftouristsites were big obstacles,butgettinginfree made upfornotbeingableto We useddolmu Admittedly accesswastesting attimes,andindependenttravel wouldbevery strenuous. We TurkeyWhat makes suchajoyisthepeople. Turkish peopleare very laid-backandextremely ş es andtouristcoaches togetaround,whichmeant‘bumming’ mywayup Curtis PalmerCurtis (NewZealand) İ stanbul. stanbul. your

ever, to qualify for these discountsyoumay toqualifyforthese ever, people are eligibleforfree bustravel. How- offered byvariousairlines.Turkish Airlines travellersmation onthefacilitiesfordisabled arethese theexceptionnotrule. have access,but toiletsadapted fordisabled –now stations afewtowns –andeven service pavements androadsare Some fairlylevel. their people withmobilityproblems because tified asrelatively user-friendly townsfor BodrumandFethiyeSelçuk, have iden- been tohave designed. sensibly they seem been key –incitiessuch asEdirne,Bursa and introduced tocities,especiallyinwestern Tur- system.Joelette for mobility-impaired people,utilisingthe (see p511 ) offers specialtours inCappadocia adapted forwheelchair-users. in Anamuristhatrare thing–ahotel truly places, butvery slowly.Hotel Rolli( p417 ) ramps are beginningtoappearinafew other some provision access,and forwheelchair soattheirperil. does ing; everyone Crossing moststreets isparticularlychalleng- nonexistent.and audioinformationatsights equipped toiletsare extremely rare, andBraille widedoorwaysandproperlylers. Ramps, nation for disabled On thewhole,Turkey isachallenging desti- DISABLED TRAVELLERS have toshow adoctor’sletter as‘proof’ of your In and atsomemuseums. who are also eligiblefordiscountsontrains offers travellers 40%discountstodisabled Check outwww.everybody.co.uk forinfor- Increasingly, droppedkerb edges are being Airlines andthetophotels andresorts have (engelli İ or stanbul, disabled disabled stanbul, lonelyplanet.com Mephisto Voyage Mephisto özürlü) travel- İ zmir

au; 60 Mugga Way, Red Hill, ACT 2603) ACT Hill, Way,Red au; 60Mugga Str 9,10179Berlin) Clyde Rd, Ballsbridge, Dublin4) Clyde Rd,Ballsbridge, Palestro 28,00185Rome) Pyrmont NSW2001,Australia) bility.com.au; Suite6,TheCooperage,56BowmanSt, of tour and transport operatorsinTurkey. of tourandtransport Some informationresources dedicated to Organisations you. Tramsare wheelchair-accessible too. to obviousitmayseem however disability, lonelyplanet.com Italy Ireland Greece Germany France Canada Australia thelistonwww.mfa.gov.tr.countries see lected citiesaroundtheworld.Forother The followingare Turkish embassies inse- Turkish EmbassiesAbroad EMBASSIES &CONSULATES train tickets. also get domesticandinternational 20%off entryfees. Youcan by nomeansall)museum to get discountsof atleast 50% onmost(but legally. WithanISICcardyoushould beable are astudentbefore youwillbeable to get one your college oruniversity toprove thatyou aletter (ISIC);you’llneed from Identity Card your handsonistheInternational Student Currently theonlyreally cardtolay useful DISCOUNT CARDS beabletohelp. might You couldemailandsomeonewithEnglish Turkey, butisunfortunately onlyinTurkish. only) Engellilerle Dayan The Handicapped forthe Society fortheAdvancementofTravel Radar Accessibility.com.au Access-Able travellersdisabled include: 197 Wurtemburg St, Ottawa, Ontario KIN8L9) Ontario St,Ottawa, 197 Wurtemburg 347 Fifth Ave, No610,NewYork,NY10016,USA) 10674 Athens) Malesherbes, 75017Paris)Malesherbes, Forum, 250CityRd,LondonEC1V8AF,UK) hashelpfulinformationforvisitors to ( Physically Disabled Support Association DisabledSupport Physically % ( ( ( % ( ( % % % % ( ( 06-445 941; www.ambasciataditurchia.it; Via % % 020-7250 3222;www.radar.org.uk; 12City 01 56 33 33 33; www.tcparbsk.com; 184blvd 01 563333;www.tcparbsk.com; 01-724 5915;8Vassileos GheorgiouBSt, (www.access-able.com) Includesasmalllist 01-668 5240; [email protected]; 11 01-668 5240;[email protected]; 613-789 4044; www.turkishembassy.com; 613-789 4044;www.turkishembassy.com; (SATH; 02-6295 0227;www.turkishembassy.org. 030-275 850;www.tcberlinbe.de; Runge ı ş ma Derne DIRECTORY ••DiscountCards DIRECTORY % ( % 212-447 7284;www.sath.org; ğ 02-9692 9322;www.accessi i; www.bedd.org.tr inTurkish (Bedensel

pp94-5; Pertev Pa Pertev Edirne Mehmet AhmetAdnanZeygün Caddesi44,Ulus,Levent 2) Mehmet İ Asker Oca Asker ( SW7 1BW) London Knightsbridge, Rutland Lodge,Gardens, Massachusetts Ave,Massachusetts NWWashington,DC2008) Rafael Calvo 18 2A-B, Madrid) Calvo182A-B,Madrid) Rafael 251 9838;fax2723437; Lombachweg 33,3006Berne) 334 6100;fax 2499920; Caddesi58,Çankaya); nah Fri) Bulvar p442; (Map Ankara Germany Georgia France Canada Bulgaria Azerbaijan Australia Armenia countries, see p674 . nerede?’ ‘[Country] to anembassysay: are toasktheway includedbelow.Ifyouneed openinghours tothese Exceptions up visas. also openintheafternoon forpeopletopick may beopenSundaytoThursday. Often they someembassiesofalthough Muslimcountries open from8amtonoonMondayFriday Most embassies andconsulates inTurkey are Embassies &ConsulatesinTurkey USA UK Switzerland Spain ( 1361; fax 223 8741; Eski Erzurum Caddesi) Erzurum 1361; fax2238741;Eski ( Trabzon ( p442; Mp p442; (Map Mp p442; (Map tr; U Kavakl fax 3348727; stanbul % % h % ( For details ongetting toneighbouringFor details visas embassy inAnkara ğ ( % 0212-243 1333;fax2431332;2ndfl,SuzerPlaza, 0312-442 6508; Hilal Mahallesi Caddesi31,Y Mahallesi 0312-442 6508;Hilal 9.30am-12.30pm Mon-Fri; 9.30am-12.30pm Mon-Fri; 17,Levent 1); 0212-284 9579;SumbulSokak ur Mumcu Caddesi88\7,Gaziosmanpa ur Mumcu ( % % ı

ı ( 114,Kavakl % ( ( (Map (Map p550 ; dere); % ( % % h ( 020-7591 6900; www.turkishconsulate.org.uk; 020-7591 6900;www.turkishconsulate.org.uk; ş ( h ğ h Contact Russianembassy. Contact a Sokak 10; a Sokak 202-612 6700; www.turkishembassy.org; 2525 202-612 6700;www.turkishembassy.org; 0312-427 5142;AtatürkBulvar ( h ( ı /fax 0284-2140617;Talat Pa ( Caddesi15,Elmada h % % h % h 0312-491 1681; Baku Sokak 1,Or-An); Sokak 0312-491 1681;Baku 91 319 8064; www.tcmadridbe.org; Callede 91 3198064;www.tcmadridbe.org; 0212-343 9258; Cumhuriyet Caddesi169) 0212-343 9258;Cumhuriyet 9am-noon Mon-Fri) ( 9am-noon Mon-Fri) ( 9am-12.30pm Mon-Fri) 9am-12.30pm Mon-Fri) İ İ stanbul ( 9.30am-5.30pm Mon-Thu, 9.30am-12.30pm h stiklal Caddesi8,Taksim) 10am-5pm Mon-Fri) 10am-5pm Mon-Fri) 9-11am Mon-Fri) 9-11am Mon-Fri) % 0312-459 9521;www.embaustralia.org. 0312-455 5100;fax427 8926;Atatürk 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) 0312-455 4545;Paris Caddesi70, 9am-noon Mon-Fri) 9am-noon Mon-Fri) 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) 8.30am-4.30pm Mon-Fri) ı dere); % 031 359 7070; www.tr-botschaft.ch; 031 3597070;www.tr-botschaft.ch; (Map p442 ; (Map (Map pp100-1 ; h İ 0462-326 2226;fax3262296; İ stiklal Caddesi373/5,Beyo nönü Caddesi 16,Taksim) İ İ 9am-6pm Mon-Fri); 9am-6pm Mon-Fri); stanbul stanbul ğ % , embassy inAnkara % (Map pp100-1 ; (Map (Map pp100-1 ; % Ş i ş embassy inAnkara li) 0474-223 6475,223 embassy inAnkara % 0312-409 2700;Cin- 0212-281 0114; 0212-281 0114; embassy inAnkara ş a Caddesi 31); a Caddesi31); ı ba 124,Kavakl 0212-334 8730; embassy inAnkara ş ş a); embassy in konsoloslu İ stanbul İ stanbul % % ı (Map (Map ld ğ Kars İ lu) stanbul ı z); ı

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u DIRECTORY DIRECTORY DIRECTORY butt outifyouaskthemto. usually smoke-free. Taxi drivers willusually bars andhotel lobbies. Public transportis have toendure smokinginrestaurants, cafés, you’ll board, butuntiltheycomeintoeffect Anti-smokinglawsareright! onthedrawing withhis the gear wheel stickandthesteering a newbornwithhislefthandandcigarette, Our favourite examplewasadriver holding Turks smoke here, there andeverywhere. Smoking more information. drugged atacampinOlympos.See p381 for male travellers claimingtohave theirdrinks they are shady characters. choice; ifthey’re notkeen togo,chances are invite yournew-found friendstoabarof very carefully beforehand. Youcouldalso large citieswithoutsizingthesituationup fromunknownfolkin not acceptinvitations gone wrong. Most likely hewasavictimof adrugging body wasfoundontheoutskirtsof this unluckyyoungman–amonthlater his a Korean tourist,mostlocalsknewthefate of missing person billboardsin2005wentupfor missingto yourshoes, –orworse. Whenthe down location withallyourbelongings,right spiked andwakingupinsomeunexpected for thisone,andyouriskfindingyourdrink accompanied bythefigleafof awoman.Fall from Egypt orRomaniaandoften orLebanon or three so-calledfriends,often claiming tobe situation asingleguyisapproached bytwo 656 We’ve alsoheardreports about twofe- Moral of stories?Singlemenshould these see everything. the steps, totheastonishmentofonlookers. small withhandheldshowers. Accessibletoiletswere rare, andmostwere squattoilets. people were bothfriendlyandhelpful.The bathroomsmostlyhadonestep intothem andwere and downlotsofsteps. This proved tobemore rewarding thanexpensive hotels, though,asthe chose tostayinhostels hadtobumpmeup and pensions,andthisoften meantmypartner helpful. Whenever wefacedadilemmathere ofwillinghelpers. wasnever ashortage ficulties, butnomore thanwhenItravel aroundEurope. places are notaccessible. Travelling aroundTurkey forsixweekswasatotaljoy.Ihadsomedif- I amaC6,C7quadriplegic wholoves totravel. whoassistsmewhere Itravel withmypartner HAVE WHEELS,WILLTRAVEL IETR •Dsbe rvles ••DisabledTravellers DIRECTORY A lotoftouristsites were big obstacles,butgettinginfree made upfornotbeingableto We useddolmu Admittedly accesswastesting attimes,andindependenttravel wouldbevery strenuous. We TurkeyWhat makes suchajoyisthepeople. Turkish peopleare very laid-backandextremely ş es andtouristcoaches togetaround,whichmeant‘bumming’ mywayup Curtis PalmerCurtis (NewZealand) İ stanbul. stanbul. your

offered byvariousairlines.Turkish Airlines travellersmation onthefacilitiesfordisabled arethese theexceptionnotrule. have access,but toiletsadapted fordisabled –now stations afewtowns –andeven service pavements androadsare Some fairlylevel. their people withmobilityproblems because tified asrelatively user-friendly townsfor BodrumandFethiyeSelçuk, have iden- been tohave designed. sensibly they seem been key –incitiessuch asEdirne,Bursa and introduced tocities,especiallyinwestern Tur- system.Joelette for mobility-impaired people,utilisingthe (see p511 ) offers specialtours inCappadocia adapted forwheelchair-users. in Anamuristhatrare thing–ahotel truly places, butvery slowly.Hotel Rolli( p417 ) ramps are beginningtoappearinafew other some provision access,and forwheelchair soattheirperil. does ing; everyone Crossing moststreets isparticularlychalleng- nonexistent.and audioinformationatsights equipped toiletsare extremely rare, andBraille widedoorwaysandproperlylers. Ramps, nation for disabled On thewhole,Turkey isachallenging desti- DISABLED TRAVELLERS have toshow adoctor’sletter as‘proof’ of your discountsyoumay toqualifyforthese ever, people are eligibleforfree bustravel. How- In and atsomemuseums. who are also eligiblefordiscountsontrains offers travellers 40%discountstodisabled Check outwww.everybody.co.uk forinfor- Increasingly, droppedkerb edges are being Airlines andthetophotels andresorts have (engelli İ or stanbul, disabled disabled stanbul, lonelyplanet.com Mephisto Voyage Mephisto özürlü) travel- İ zmir

au; 60 Mugga Way, Red Hill, ACT 2603) ACT Hill, Way,Red au; 60Mugga Str 9,10179Berlin) Palestro 28,00185Rome) Dublin4) Clyde Rd,Ballsbridge, Pyrmont NSW2001,Australia) bility.com.au; Suite6,TheCooperage,56BowmanSt, of tour and transport operatorsinTurkey. of tourandtransport Some informationresources dedicated to Organisations you. Tramsare wheelchair-accessible too. to obviousitmayseem however disability, lonelyplanet.com Italy Ireland Greece Germany France Canada Australia thelistonwww.mfa.gov.tr.countries see lected citiesaroundtheworld.Forother The followingare Turkish embassies inse- Turkish EmbassiesAbroad EMBASSIES &CONSULATES train tickets. also get domesticandinternational 20%off entryfees. Youcan by nomeansall)museum to get discountsof atleast50% onmost(but legally. WithanISICcardyoushould beable are astudentbefore youwillbeable to get one your college oruniversity toprove thatyou aletter (ISIC);you’llneed from Identity Card your handsonistheInternational Student Currently theonlyreally cardtolay useful DISCOUNT CARDS beabletohelp. might You couldemailandsomeonewithEnglish Turkey, butisunfortunately onlyinTurkish. only) Engellilerle Dayan The Handicapped forthe Society fortheAdvancementofTravel Radar Accessibility.com.au Access-Able travellersdisabled include: 197 Wurtemburg St, Ottawa, Ontario KIN8L9) Ontario St,Ottawa, 197 Wurtemburg 347 Fifth Ave, No610,NewYork,NY10016,USA) 10674 Athens) Malesherbes, 75017Paris)Malesherbes, Forum, 250CityRd,LondonEC1V8AF,UK) hashelpfulinformationforvisitors to ( Physically Disabled Support Association DisabledSupport Physically % ( ( ( % ( ( % % % % ( ( 06-445 941; www.ambasciataditurchia.it; Via % % 020-7250 3222;www.radar.org.uk; 12City 01 56 33 33 33; www.tcparbsk.com; 184blvd 01 563333;www.tcparbsk.com; 01-724 5915;8Vassileos GheorgiouBSt, (www.access-able.com) Includesasmalllist 01-668 5240; [email protected]; 11 01-668 5240;[email protected]; 613-789 4044; www.turkishembassy.com; 613-789 4044;www.turkishembassy.com; (SATH; 02-6295 0227;www.turkishembassy.org. 030-275 850;www.tcberlinbe.de; Runge ı ş ma Derne DIRECTORY ••DiscountCards DIRECTORY % ( % 212-447 7284;www.sath.org; ğ 02-9692 9322;www.accessi i; www.bedd.org.tr inTurkish (Bedensel

İ pp94-5; AhmetAdnanZeygün Caddesi44,Ulus,Levent 2) Mehmet Edirne Pertev Pa Pertev SW7 1BW) London Knightsbridge, Rutland Lodge,Gardens, Asker Oca Asker ( Ave,Massachusetts NWWashington,DC2008) Rafael Calvo 18 2A-B, Madrid) Calvo182A-B,Madrid) Rafael Lombachweg 33,3006Berne) 334 6100;fax 2499920; Bulvar p442; (Map 251 9838;fax2723437; Caddesi58,Çankaya); nah Fri) Ankara Germany Georgia France Canada Bulgaria Azerbaijan Australia Armenia countries, see p674 . nerede?’ ‘[Country] to anembassysay: are toasktheway includedbelow.Ifyouneed openinghours tothese Exceptions up visas. also openintheafternoon forpeopletopick may beopenSundaytoThursday. Often they someembassiesofalthough Muslimcountries open from8amtonoonMondayFriday Most embassies andconsulates inTurkey are Embassies &ConsulatesinTurkey USA UK Switzerland Spain 1361; fax 223 8741; Eski Erzurum Caddesi) Erzurum 1361; fax2238741;Eski ( ( Trabzon ( p442; Mp p442; (Map Mp p442; (Map tr; U Kavakl fax 3348727; stanbul % % h % ( For details ongetting toneighbouringFor details visas embassy inAnkara ğ ( % 0212-243 1333;fax2431332;2ndfl,SuzerPlaza, 0312-442 6508; Hilal Mahallesi Caddesi31,Y Mahallesi 0312-442 6508;Hilal 9.30am-12.30pm Mon-Fri; 9.30am-12.30pm Mon-Fri; 17,Levent 1); 0212-284 9579;SumbulSokak ur Mumcu Caddesi88\7,Gaziosmanpa ur Mumcu ( % % ı

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u DIRECTORY DIRECTORY DIRECTORY Mon-Fri &2.30-5pmMon-ThuMon-Fri insummer) Bldg,BarbarosCaddesi249; Management h 6486; fax4125077;Ye Cesur 6,Ortahisar) fax 3346407;Me Mp p549; (Map Gümü [email protected]; Caddesi 1/2,Ca Mon-Thu &Sat; fax 2925031; 2-4pm Mon-Fri); 2-4pm Mon-Fri); Ş [email protected]; Turan 11,Gaziosmanpa EmeksizSokak Caddesi 13/4,Kavakl % Atatürk Bulvar Kavakl p442; &Sun) Sat, 8.30am-12.30pmFri New Year’s Day January ing are someof thenationalstandouts: p135 of fordetails someof Thefollow- these.) to have (See week! somethingonalmost every Turkey hasloadsof festivals – FESTIVALS &EVENTS USA UK Syria Russia New Zealand Netherlands Iraq Iran 658 cards. andgreeting with theusual decorations,exchange ofgifts Mevkii 2, Mevkii 5, Çankaya); 5, Çankaya); p442; ( tions onlyforTurkish nationals. but atthetimeofresearch itwasprocessingvisaapplica- Te 40,06680Çankaya); SimaviSokak 5609; Sedat desi 3,Y (Map p442; (Map İ 346 7916;GirneBulvar Bulvar p442; (Map stanbul % ehit Ersan Caddesi 46/A, Çankaya; ehit ErsanCaddesi46/A,Çankaya; ş vikiye) There is a newly opened consulate in Gaziantep, There isanewlyopenedconsulateinGaziantep, vikiye)

embassy inAnkara 9am-12.30pm & 2-3.30pm Mon-Fri); 9am-12.30pm &2-3.30pmMon-Fri); 0312-467 9056; fax 0312-467 9013; level 4,Iran 0312-467 9056;fax9013;level ( (

0212-232 6721; fax 230 2215; Maçka Caddesi59/5, 0212-232 6721;fax2302215;Maçka embassy inAnkara ş h h % % ı ı embassy inAnkara IETR •Fsias&Eet ••Festivals &Events DIRECTORY uyu) 118,Kavakl dere); ; ( ı % ld h İ 8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri) 8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Fri) stinye) ı 8.30am-12.30pm &2.30-4.30pmMon-Thu & 0312-468 2820;fax4682823;Tahran Caddesi10, 0312-439 2122;fax4383952;Karya z); % % % 0212-335 9000;fax3359102;Kapl İ 10-11am Mon-Fri) 10-11am Mon-Fri) Erzurum stanbul İ İ ı ( stiklal Caddesi393,Beyo stanbul ); ğ

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ı il Marmaris TravelAgency &Yachtil Marmaris No 212 Guzelevler Mahallesi); Mahallesi); No212Guzelevler ( (Map pp100-1 ; ( (Map (Map pp100-1 ; % % 0312-455 3344; fax 455 3351; 0312-455 3344;fax4553351; Adana 0442-316 2285;fax3161182;off İ stanbul 0312-468 7421;fax4684832; 0312-440 9657;fax438 ( embassy inAnkara embassy inAnkara İ (Map (Map p442 ; % nönü Caddesi92/3, h ( embassy inAnkara % % % 0322-346 6262;fax ğ ş 9am-12.30pm & 9am-12.30pm & a) lu) % h Marmaris 0212-292 5101; İ 0212-251 3895; h 0212-393 2121; 0212-393 2121; ğ stanbul seems seems stanbul embassy inAnkara ş lu); 0212-334 6400; 0212-334 6400; ı 8.30-11.30am , Beyo 9.30am-noon 9.30am-noon ğ Ş Trabzon İ stanbul ı di Sokak di Sokak h Refik h Refik calar ( (Map (Map (Map (Map % ğ lu; lu;

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celebrating Kurdishmusic,danceandtheatre ( p587 ). followers oftheBekta end ofJulyDo Çe particularly inDiyarbak particularly isnowanofficialholidaywithhugeparties, ago, Nevruz over bonfires andgeneral jollity.Banneduntilafew years withmuchjumping festival on21March Eastern spring for this annual festival? See for thisannualfestival? See p276 formore. locationthantheCastleofStPeteratmospheric inBodrum April. on25 atGallipoli are commemoratedwith dawnservices K Kafkasör International Opera&BalletFestivalAspendos June &July Day Anzac Day Children’s April Nevruz March withourwrestling low-downon spectator p250 . forthecamelwrestle ofalifetime.in Selçuk Beasavvy Wrestling Camel usually subdivide eating establishments into usually subdivide eatingestablishments Turkish menus,see p68 . For information aboutwhatyou’llfind on FOOD Festival Mevlâna December BalletFestivalInternational Hac August Kültür little Hac ( Artvin p575 ). end ofJunejointhecrushatbull-wrestling matchesat countrywide events. invitedto international children’s festival, withkids around 10to17December(see p486 ). usuallylastsfrom orderofwhirlingdervishes, the Mevlevi Celaleddin Rumi,thegreat poetandmysticwhofounded Edirne ( p171 ). Turkey’s greatest oilwrestlers slugitoutforsupremacy in (p395). world inoneofthefinestRomantheatres inthe performance to earlyJulythisfestival isanexcellentexcusetoenjoya ı rkp ş me andEphesushostopera,classicaldance( p230 ). In the Eating sections of sections thisguide, we In theEating ı Bekta ı nar Oil Competition Wrestling

Sanat ve Turizm Festival Turizm Sanat ve Kurds and Alevis celebrate the ancient Middle celebratetheancientMiddle KurdsandAlevis ı bekta

Kültür ve SanatFestivalKültür ve ThedisastrousWWIbattlesfortheDardanelles ş Veli Festival ğ ş ubayaz İ comes alive for the annual pilgrimage for comesalivefortheannualpilgrimage zmir Festival Every 23 April iscelebratedwithan Every 23April This Konya festival, honouring ThisKonyafestival, honouring On thelastSundayinJanuarybe ş ı t hosts a culture and arts festival t hostsaculture andarts ı ı order of dervishes ( orderofdervishes p517 ). r, thatlastwellintothemorning. From16to18August,sleepy Mid-June tomid-July, Canyouthinkofamore During thelastweek- During lonelyplanet.com Frommid-June ı Inthelastweek- EveryJune, İ zmir, zmir, Absolute Sultans Absolute radic reports of violencetowardsgays–the prejudice remains strongandthere are spo- Gay &LesbianTravel Gay gay andlesbianmagazine(inTurkishonly). Ankara, which publishes thecountry’sonly rarely serve alcohol. Amealislikelyrarely tocost serve that dishupsoups,stews andgrills–they less wayouteast). in mostpartsof Turkey (more in and €30withoutdrinkstoeatinarestaurant €15 alcoholic topaybetween drinks. Expect where youcanexpecttofindtablecloths and areand cafés.Restaurants thesmarter places restaurants, placesforquick,cheap feeds lonelyplanet.com Kurban Bayram either sideof one. Thebiggest Islamicholiday, ning totravel duringaholiday orafew days ahead of timewherever possibleifyou’re plan- should bookaccommodationandtransport noting thedates of Turkish holidays.You When you’re planning yourtrip,it’sworth HOLIDAYS (www.lambdaistanbul.org) gay andlesbiansupportgroup, Elsewhere there mayonlybeabarortwo. ishing gayscene(see p147 Ankara. ), asdoes isdiscretion.message of groupssuch as tudes are changing thankstothehardwork Homosexuality is legalinTurkey andatti- GAY &LESBIANTRAVELLERS may wellbemusicintheevening. There willprobably bealcohol available and €7and€15. –you’llpaybetween and salads ofMost offer sandwiches aselection pastas, lokantas egories. Theyare usuallymuch smarter than big cities. inthe €4and€10,even you onlybetween Gay-friendly travel agents include For more Turkey’s information,contact fallsomewhere thetwocat- Cafés between Quick eatsincludeallthemany 49 0Jn0 2 a 8 e 8 c 8 8Dec08 28Nov09 20Dec07 09 21Sep 08 1Oct 07 12Oct 22Aug09 08 2Sep 07 13Sep 09 9Mar 08 20Mar 07 31Mar 29Dec 09 10Jan 08 20Jan 07 1430 1429 begins Ramazan 1428 Prophet’sBirthday NewYear Islamic year MAJOR ISLAMIC HOLIDAYS but notasformalrestaurants. (www.absolutesultans.com). DIRECTORY •• Gay &Lesbian Travellers ••Gay DIRECTORY ı , sees localstravel, sees allover the

(www.turkey-gay-travel.com) Kaos GL andKaos in GL,based İ stanbul hasaflour-stanbul (www.kaosgl.com) Lambda İ lokantas stanbul, stanbul, Sunset İ stanbul , but and

and travellers are notobliged tofast. women, youngchildren, theinfirmandaged, downing anAspirin. Pregnant ornursing hours: noeating,drinking,smokingoreven lims let pillars of Mus- Islam,andfor30days devout Fasting during isoneof thefiveRamazan countries) issimilarinsomewaystoLent. inotherMuslim The HolyMonth(Ramadan RAMAZAN holidays. Bayram Ofthereligioussunset. festivals, only about noon,andtheactualfestival begins at religious holidays; shops close and offices tion’ precedes of thestart major publicand lier each year. calendar, theytake placearound11daysear- are celebrated accordingtotheMuslimlunar later, KurbanBayram and,twomonths the month-longRamazan holidays of are which themostimportant confirmed untilthemoonissighted. table, below , are estimates; exactdates are not calendar. Dates intheMajor IslamicHolidays are celebrated accordingtotheIslamiclunar inEurope,butreligiousone used festivals The Turkishofficial calendaristheGregorian Islamic Holidays inflated rates. you don’tenduphaving tochange moneyat period. It’swellworthplanningaheadso ATMs mayrunoutof cashduringtheholiday the holidaysbankswillbeextremely busyand remain open.Note that just priortoandafter cateringbusinesses forforeign tourists will groceryshops,supermarketstaurants, and mostres- onpublicholidays;however, closed theirfamilies. see may betheonlytimeof theyeartheyget to workinginthebigcitiesit country: forthose An unofficial half-day holidayfor‘prepara- half-day An unofficial Turkey celebrates allthemainIslamic All banks, businesses andmostshopsareAll banks,businesses nothing ı andKurbanBayram Ş eker Bayram eker pass their lips during daylight passtheirlipsduringdaylight ı . Since these holidays . Sincethese ı Kurban Bayram ı are also public

659 eker ı DIRECTORY DIRECTORY DIRECTORY h Mon-Fri &2.30-5pmMon-ThuMon-Fri insummer) Bldg,BarbarosCaddesi249; Management Cesur 6,Ortahisar) 6486; fax4125077;Ye Mp p549; (Map fax 3346407;Me Gümü [email protected]; fax 2925031; Caddesi 1/2,Ca Mon-Thu &Sat; [email protected]; [email protected]; Turan 11,Gaziosmanpa EmeksizSokak 2-4pm Mon-Fri); 2-4pm Mon-Fri); Ş Caddesi 13/4,Kavakl % New Year’s Day January ing are someof thenationalstandouts: p135 of fordetails someof Thefollow- these.) to have (See week! somethingonalmost every Turkey hasloadsof festivals – FESTIVALS &EVENTS USA UK Syria Russia New Zealand Netherlands Iraq Atatürk Bulvar Kavakl p442; Iran 658 Sat, 8.30am-12.30pm Fri &Sun) Sat, 8.30am-12.30pmFri cards. andgreeting with theusual decorations,exchange ofgifts Mevkii 2, Mevkii 5, Çankaya); 5, Çankaya); p442; tions onlyforTurkish nationals. but atthetimeofresearch itwasprocessingvisaapplica- Te ( 40,06680Çankaya); SimaviSokak 5609; Sedat desi 3,Y p442; (Map İ 346 7916;GirneBulvar Bulvar Mp p442; (Map stanbul % ehit Ersan Caddesi 46/A, Çankaya; ehit ErsanCaddesi46/A,Çankaya; ş vikiye) There is a newly opened consulate in Gaziantep, There isanewlyopenedconsulateinGaziantep, vikiye)

embassy inAnkara 9am-12.30pm & 2-3.30pm Mon-Fri); 9am-12.30pm &2-3.30pmMon-Fri); 0312-467 9056; fax 0312-467 9013; level 4,Iran 0312-467 9056;fax9013;level ( (

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0412 0412

celebrating Kurdishmusic,danceandtheatre ( p587 ). followers oftheBekta end ofJulyDo Çe for this annual festival? See for thisannualfestival? See p276 formore. locationthantheCastleofStPeteratmospheric inBodrum April. on25 atGallipoli are commemoratedwith dawnservices particularly inDiyarbak particularly isnowanofficialholidaywithhugeparties, ago, Nevruz over bonfires andgeneral jollity.Banneduntilafew years withmuchjumping festival on21March Eastern spring K Kafkasör International Opera&BalletFestivalAspendos June &July Day Anzac Day Children’s April Nevruz March withourwrestling low-downon spectator p250 . forthecamelwrestle ofalifetime.in Selçuk Beasavvy Wrestling Camel usually subdivide eating establishments into usually subdivide eatingestablishments Turkish menus,see p68 . For information aboutwhatyou’llfind on FOOD Festival Mevlâna December BalletFestivalInternational little Hac Hac August Kültür ( Artvin p575 ). end ofJunejointhecrushatbull-wrestling matchesat around 10to17December(see p486 ). usuallylastsfrom orderofwhirlingdervishes, the Mevlevi Celaleddin Rumi,thegreat poetandmysticwhofounded Edirne ( p171 ). Turkey’s greatest oilwrestlers slugitoutforsupremacy in countrywide events. invitedto international children’s festival, withkids ol (p395). world inoneofthefinestRomantheatres inthe performance to earlyJulythisfestival isanexcellentexcusetoenjoya ı rkp ş me andEphesushostopera,classicaldance( p230 ). In the Eating sections of sections thisguide, we In theEating ı Bekta ı nar Oil Competition Wrestling

Sanat ve Turizm Festival Turizm Sanat ve Kurds and Alevis celebrate the ancient Middle celebratetheancientMiddle KurdsandAlevis ı bekta

Kültür ve SanatFestivalKültür ve ThedisastrousWWIbattlesfortheDardanelles ş Veli Festival ğ ş ubayaz İ comes alive for the annual pilgrimage for comesalivefortheannualpilgrimage zmir Festival Every 23 April iscelebratedwithan Every 23April This Konya festival, honouring ThisKonyafestival, honouring On thelastSundayinJanuarybe ş ı t hosts a culture and arts festival t hostsaculture andarts ı ı order of dervishes ( orderofdervishes p517 ). r, thatlastwellintothemorning. From16to18August,sleepy Mid-June tomid-July, Canyouthinkofamore During thelastweek- During lonelyplanet.com Frommid-June ı Inthelastweek- EveryJune, İ zmir, zmir, Absolute Sultans Absolute radic reports of violencetowardsgays–the prejudice remains strongandthere are spo- gay andlesbianmagazine(inTurkishonly). Ankara, which publishes thecountry’sonly Gay &LesbianTravel Gay rarely serve alcohol. Amealislikelyrarely tocost serve that dishupsoups,stews andgrills–they less wayouteast). in mostpartsof Turkey (more in and €30withoutdrinkstoeatinarestaurant €15 alcoholic topaybetween drinks. Expect where youcanexpecttofindtablecloths and areand cafés.Restaurants thesmarter places restaurants, placesforquick,cheap feeds lonelyplanet.com Kurban Bayram either sideof one. Thebiggest Islamicholiday, ning totravel duringaholiday orafew days ahead of timewherever possibleifyou’re plan- should bookaccommodationandtransport noting thedates of Turkish holidays.You When you’re planning yourtrip,it’sworth HOLIDAYS (www.lambdaistanbul.org) gay andlesbiansupportgroup, Elsewhere there mayonlybeabarortwo. ishing gayscene(see p147 Ankara. ), asdoes isdiscretion.message of groupssuch as tudes are changing thankstothehardwork Homosexuality is legalinTurkey andatti- GAY &LESBIANTRAVELLERS may wellbemusicintheevening. There willprobably bealcohol available and €7and€15. –you’llpaybetween and salads ofMost offer sandwiches aselection pastas, lokantas egories. Theyare usuallymuch smarter than big cities. inthe €4and€10,even you onlybetween Gay-friendly travel agents include For more Turkey’s information,contact fallsomewhere thetwocat- Cafés between Quick eatsincludeallthemany 49 0Jn0 2 a 8 e 8 c 8 8Dec08 28Nov09 20Dec07 09 21Sep 08 1Oct 07 12Oct 22Aug09 08 2Sep 07 13Sep 09 9Mar 08 20Mar 07 31Mar 29Dec 09 10Jan 08 20Jan 07 1430 1429 begins Ramazan 1428 Prophet’sBirthday NewYear Islamic year MAJOR ISLAMIC HOLIDAYS but notasformalrestaurants. (www.absolutesultans.com). DIRECTORY •• Gay &Lesbian Travellers ••Gay DIRECTORY ı , sees localstravel, sees allover the

(www.turkey-gay-travel.com) Kaos GL andKaos in GL,based İ stanbul hasaflour-stanbul (www.kaosgl.com) Lambda İ lokantas stanbul, stanbul, Sunset İ stanbul , but and

659 eker ı DIRECTORY DIRECTORY DIRECTORY iftar whereuponsunset sitsdowntoan everyone a cannonshot signals theendof thefastat so theycaneatbefore Traditionally, sunrise. holiday, and banks usually close forafull holiday, and banksusually close different story. the cities,butout inthecountrysideit’sa in thesacrifices daysyouwon’t see These ittoaleatherproducts company. then sells theskinisdonated toacharity,needy; which prepare afeast. Part of themeatisgiven tothe flayed andbutchered, andfamilyfriends holiday theanimal’sthroatisslit. It’sthen early morningprayers onthefirst dayof the Immediatelybuys abeasttosacrifice. after Every to headof whocanafford household aresheep forKurbanBayram sacrificed festival commemorates Muslims asChristmasistoChristians.The tival of to theSacrifice)isjustasimportant holiday of theyear, Kurban Bayram religiousThe mostimportant andsecular KURBAN BAYRAMI are booked solid. trainsandplanes hotels, buses, close; offices and afterbroad daylight thelongfast.Banks drinkslotsofvisiting, andeverybody tea in treats.door askingforsweet Theirelders go during thisfestival children gofromdoorto Bayram day; Ramazan of Ramazan, A three-day festival thatcelebrates theend Ş bit more erratic. than usualatthistime,anddrivingcanbea early. Notsurprisinglytempers canfrayfaster hearted manner,openinglate andclosing operate inahalf- manybusinesses although towns. conservative – butit’sstillbesttobediscreet, especiallyin find lotsof nonfastingMuslimsbesideyou when youlike –andinthebigcitiesyou’ll non-Muslims, you’re allowedtoeatanddrink eateries catering totouristsremain open.As butmost fromdawntonightfall, be closed 660 rifice of one aboutAbraham andIsaac. storyasthebiblical 22),thesame 37; Genesis EKER BAYRAMI Kurban Bayram somerestaurants may During Ramazan, dawn,drummersBefore wake thefaithful Ramazan isnotanofficialpublicholiday, Ramazan Every yeararoundfourmillioncowsand (thebreak of fastmeal). IETR •Isrne ••Insurance DIRECTORY İ smael onMtMoriah(Quran,Sura Ş eker Bayram ı isafour- orfive-day ı ) is so named because ) issonamedbecause İ brahim’s near- sac- ı (Sweets Holi- (Sweets ı (Fes- ı . at Dumlup overtheinvadingGreek army the republican army’svictory in 1923. memorates theproclamationofrepublic byAtatürk Dedicated toAtatürkandtheyouthofRepublic. meeting oftheTurkish GrandNationalAssemblyin1920. Commemoratesthefirst Egemenlik veÇocukGünü;23April) very crowded. İ the northAegean coastbetween months towns,especiallyalong manycoastal untilmid-September.through Duringthose its strideinmid-Juneandcontinuesright ing domestictourismmarket thatgets into with increasing hascomeaswell- affluence into accountwhenplanningyourtrip.Along totake TurkishschoolYou need holidays School Holidays Day Republic Day Victory Day Youth &Sports Day &Children’s National Sovereignty New Year’s Day Public Holidays festivals,these see p70 . expensive. particularly alongthecoasts,are scarceand Transportispacked,week. andhotel rooms, insurance, respectively. cover you. warning againsttravel yourinsurer maynot cancel yourtripon theadviceof anofficial against travel. Similarly ifyoudecideto the countrywhere yourgovernment warns not cover you ifyoutravel toregions of p687. you later. Formore onhealthinsurance, see directly,penses whileothers willreimburse cycle licences. motor-cies don’trecognise locallyobtained trekking.motorcycling andeven Somepoli- ous activities’,which canincludescubadiving, the smallprint. huge varietyof policiesisavailable, socheck isaveryand medicalexpenses goodidea. A A travel insurance policytocover theft,loss INSURANCE zmir, get very busyandtransportcanbecome Note thatsomeinsurancepoliciesmay Some policieswillpayyourmedicalex- Some policiesspecificallyexclude‘danger- For more about thepartplayed byfoodin See See p682 onmotorandhealth fordetails ı nar during theWarofIndependence. nar during (Zafer Bayram (Cumhuriyet Bayram (Cumhuriyet (Y ı lba (Gençlik ve Spor Günü; 19 May) veSporGünü;19May) (Gençlik ş ı ; 1January) ı ; 30August) Commemorates ı ; 29 October) Com- ; 29October) lonelyplanet.com İ stanbul and stanbul (Ulusal voltage inTurkey fromthatat maydiffer with you,remember thatthepowersupply If youplan to carryyournotebook orpalmtop Laptop Computers INTERNET ACCESS lonelyplanet.com if youbreak thelaw. fairly, your embassywon’t be abletohelpyou urging the Turkishauthoritiestotreat you not are inTurkey youare subjecttoTurkish law, It’s torememberimportant thatwhenyou LEGAL MATTERS the ‘q’andALT keys time. atthesame have tocreate the‘@’symbolbyholdingdown board isthedotless‘ the oneinusualplaceonaTurkish key- and theless familiardotless‘ Turkish hastwo‘i’s:thefamiliardotted ‘i’, tobeaware youneed in which case that boards. Others willhave Turkishkeyboards, until thelastcustomerleaves. are usually openfrom9amtillate or atnight, usually around€2foranhour. Internet cafés and carpetshops are alsohooked up.Fees are tions. Mosthotels, pensions,travel agencies internet café,andmosthave ADSLconnec- Wherever yougo,you’llbe twosteps froman Turks tooktotheinternet like duckstowater. Internet Cafés hot spots. www.winet.turktelekom.com.tr forthe See thecountry. and top-endhotels throughout RJ11 plugontheother. with oneof plugsonone endandan these tofindanelectricalshopandbuyacable need three-prong Turkish plug.Insuch you’ll cases the phonesoften alarger use white orbeige have Incheaper WLANs. andolderhotels, plug inalaptop.Many of hotels also these style clearplasticRJ11plug,soit’seasyto connections are madeusingtheAmerican- more information. www.kropla.com for frying theinnards.See to plugyourapplianceinanywhere without universal AC adaptorthatwillenable you your equipment.Thebestinvestment isa home, which theriskof entails damage to addresses. the correct dotted ‘i’whentypinginemail You’ll canfindwi-fi inmanyairports,cafés The bestinternet caféshave Englishkey- In four- andfive-star hotels, mostphone Likewise, onaTurkish keyboard youwill the law of your home country. Beyond thelawof your homecountry.Beyond DIRECTORY ••InternetAccess DIRECTORY ı ’; ensure youare using ı ’. Unfortunately good bookshopsalong officer mayaskyoutosubmitanalcoholofficer the inside frontcover of this book. For exchange theQuickReference rates, see in oncostsinTurkey,euros. Fordetails see p19 . 5, 10,25and50 Liracomes incoinsof 1, Turkish Lira;YTL). Turkey’s currency istheYeni TürkLiras MONEY in maps. Youcanbuythese Map Medya alsoproducesexcellent regional Turkey) is thebest.The ( Medya, updated twiceayear. Karayollar the wholecountryyoucanbuyis it’s usuallyoutof date. Thebestsheet mapof ist Map stockafreeTurkish touristoffices sheet Touring Maps Caddesi 6,Sultanahmet; at upin cities (€3).Youcanpickthese proper street mapsof manywestern Turkey maps, Map Medya’s are best.Itproduces İ maps of Adana,Ankara,Antalya, stockOK-qualitystreetTurkish touristoffices Street Maps MAPS spend anytime. ish jailsare notplaceswhere youwantto thatTurk- withoutsaying illegal drugs.Itgoes majesty (see p655 or ), antiquities smuggling within 48hours. breath-test. yourcar-rental Contact company ing fora car before findingapoliceofficerandask- you’llhavethough, topayupiftheypersist. be askingformoney,playdumb.Inevitably, done nothingwrongandthepoliceappearto ifyouknowhave However, speeding. trafik polis law. Youmaybestoppedbyblue-uniformed thing likely tolandthemintroublewiththe notes of 5,10,20,50and100 lira. zmir. Ofthelocalprivately producedstreet Turkey Village byVillage; Azim Da Prices inthisbook are quoted inmore stable You couldalsofallfoulof the lawsonlese- For mosttravellers drivingistheonly For detailed touring,the For detailed If youhave anaccident,don’tmove the (1:850,000)–it’sOKatapinch, but at1:600,000isanothergoodoption. ğ kaza raporu ı ı . Youcanbefinedonthespotfor t Haritas ı m Mp pp96-7; (Map Oto AtlasTürkiye (RoadAtlas kuru h ı

(1:1,000,000; €3),byMap 9am-7pm Mon-Sat) ş (accidentreport). The

İ and a1liracoin, stiklal Caddesi. % 1:400,000;€17)atlas 0212-638 1313;Klodfarer Köy Türkiye İ stanbul. İ stanbul and stanbul or inthe İ Türkiye stanbul stanbul

ı Tour- 661 (New DIRECTORY DIRECTORY DIRECTORY iftar whereuponsunset sitsdowntoan everyone a cannonshot signals theendof thefastat so theycaneatbefore Traditionally, sunrise. holiday, and banks usually close forafull holiday, and banksusually close different story. the cities,butout inthecountrysideit’sa in thesacrifices daysyouwon’t see These ittoaleatherproducts company. then sells theskinisdonated toacharity,needy; which prepare afeast. Part of themeatisgiven tothe flayed andbutchered, andfamilyfriends holiday theanimal’sthroatisslit. It’sthen early morningprayers onthefirst dayof the Immediatelybuys abeasttosacrifice. after Every to headof whocanafford household aresheep forKurbanBayram sacrificed festival commemorates Muslims asChristmasistoChristians.The tival of to theSacrifice)isjustasimportant holiday of theyear, Kurban Bayram religiousThe mostimportant andsecular KURBAN BAYRAMI are booked solid. trainsandplanes hotels, buses, close; offices and afterbroad daylight thelongfast.Banks drinkslotsofvisiting, andeverybody tea in treats.door askingforsweet Theirelders go during thisfestival children gofromdoorto Bayram day; Ramazan of Ramazan, A three-day festival thatcelebrates theend Ş bit more erratic. than usualatthistime,anddrivingcanbea early. Notsurprisinglytempers canfrayfaster hearted manner,openinglate andclosing operate inahalf- manybusinesses although towns. conservative – butit’sstillbesttobediscreet, especiallyin find lotsof nonfastingMuslimsbesideyou when youlike –andinthebigcitiesyou’ll non-Muslims, you’re allowedtoeatanddrink eateries catering totouristsremain open.As butmost fromdawntonightfall, be closed 660 rifice of one aboutAbraham andIsaac. storyasthebiblical 22),thesame 37; Genesis EKER BAYRAMI During Ramazan, somerestaurants may During Ramazan, dawn,drummersBefore wake thefaithful Kurban Bayram Ramazan isnotanofficialpublicholiday, Ramazan Every yeararoundfourmillioncowsand (thebreak of fastmeal). IETR •Isrne ••Insurance DIRECTORY İ smael onMtMoriah(Quran,Sura Ş eker Bayram ı isafour- orfive-day ı ) is so named because ) issonamedbecause İ brahim’s near- sac- ı (Sweets Holi- (Sweets ı (Fes- ı . at Dumlup overtheinvadingGreek army the republican army’svictory in 1923. memorates theproclamationofrepublic byAtatürk Dedicated toAtatürkandtheyouthofRepublic. meeting oftheTurkish GrandNationalAssemblyin1920. Commemoratesthefirst Egemenlik veÇocukGünü;23April) very crowded. İ the northAegean coastbetween months towns,especiallyalong manycoastal untilmid-September.through Duringthose its strideinmid-Juneandcontinuesright ing domestictourismmarket thatgets into with increasing hascomeaswell- affluence into accountwhenplanningyourtrip.Along totake TurkishschoolYou need holidays School Holidays Day Republic Day Victory Day Youth &Sports Day &Children’s National Sovereignty New Year’s Day Public Holidays festivals,these see p70 . expensive. particularly alongthecoasts,are scarceand Transportispacked,week. andhotel rooms, insurance, respectively. cover you. warning againsttravel yourinsurer maynot cancel yourtripon theadviceof anofficial against travel. Similarly ifyoudecideto the countrywhere yourgovernment warns not cover you ifyoutravel toregions of p687. you later. Formore onhealthinsurance, see directly,penses whileothers willreimburse cycle licences. motor-cies don’trecognise locallyobtained trekking.motorcycling andeven Somepoli- ous activities’,which canincludescubadiving, the smallprint. huge varietyof policiesisavailable, socheck isaveryand medicalexpenses goodidea. A A travel insurance policytocover theft,loss INSURANCE zmir, get very busyandtransportcanbecome Note thatsomeinsurancepoliciesmay Some policieswillpayyourmedicalex- Some policiesspecificallyexclude‘danger- For more about thepartplayed byfoodin See See p682 onmotorandhealth fordetails ı nar during theWarofIndependence. nar during (Zafer Bayram (Cumhuriyet Bayram (Cumhuriyet (Y ı lba (Gençlik ve Spor Günü; 19 May) veSporGünü;19May) (Gençlik ş ı ; 1January) ı ; 30August) Commemorates ı ; 29 October) Com- ; 29October) lonelyplanet.com İ stanbul and stanbul (Ulusal voltage inTurkey fromthatat maydiffer with you,remember thatthepowersupply If youplan to carryyournotebook orpalmtop Laptop Computers INTERNET ACCESS lonelyplanet.com if youbreak thelaw. fairly, your embassywon’t be abletohelpyou urging the Turkishauthoritiestotreat you not are inTurkey youare subjecttoTurkish law, It’s torememberimportant thatwhenyou LEGAL MATTERS the ‘q’andALT keys time. atthesame have tocreate the‘@’symbolbyholdingdown board isthedotless‘ the oneinusualplaceonaTurkish key- and theless familiardotless‘ Turkish hastwo‘i’s:thefamiliardotted ‘i’, tobeaware youneed in which case that boards. Others willhave Turkishkeyboards, until thelastcustomerleaves. are usually openfrom9amtillate or atnight, usually around€2foranhour. Internet cafés and carpetshops are alsohooked up.Fees are tions. Mosthotels, pensions,travel agencies internet café,andmosthave ADSLconnec- Wherever yougo,you’llbe twosteps froman Turks tooktotheinternet like duckstowater. Internet Cafés hot spots. www.winet.turktelekom.com.tr forthe See thecountry. and top-endhotels throughout RJ11 plugontheother. with oneof plugsonone endandan these tofindanelectricalshopandbuyacable need three-prong Turkish plug.Insuch you’ll cases the phonesoften alarger use white orbeige have Incheaper WLANs. andolderhotels, plug inalaptop.Many of hotels also these style clearplasticRJ11plug,soit’seasyto connections are madeusingtheAmerican- more information. www.kropla.com for frying theinnards.See to plugyourapplianceinanywhere without universal AC adaptorthatwillenable you your equipment.Thebestinvestment isa home, which theriskof entails damage to addresses. the correct dotted ‘i’whentypinginemail You’ll canfindwi-fi inmanyairports,cafés The bestinternet caféshave Englishkey- In four- andfive-star hotels, mostphone Likewise, onaTurkish keyboard youwill the law of your home country. Beyond thelawof your homecountry.Beyond DIRECTORY ••InternetAccess DIRECTORY ı ’; ensure youare using ı ’. Unfortunately good bookshopsalong officer mayaskyoutosubmitanalcoholofficer the inside frontcover of this book. For exchange theQuickReference rates, see in oncostsinTurkey,euros. Fordetails see p19 . 5, 10,25and50 Liracomes incoinsof 1, Turkish Lira;YTL). Turkey’s currency istheYeni TürkLiras MONEY in maps. Youcanbuythese Map Medya alsoproducesexcellent regional Turkey) is thebest.The ( Medya, updated twiceayear. Karayollar the wholecountryyoucanbuyis it’s usuallyoutof date. Thebestsheet mapof ist Map stockafreeTurkish touristoffices sheet Touring Maps Caddesi 6,Sultanahmet; at upin cities (€3).Youcanpickthese proper street mapsof manywestern Turkey maps, Map Medya’s are best.Itproduces İ maps of Adana,Ankara,Antalya, stockOK-qualitystreetTurkish touristoffices Street Maps MAPS spend anytime. ish jailsare notplaceswhere youwantto thatTurk- withoutsaying illegal drugs.Itgoes majesty (see p655 or ), antiquities smuggling within 48hours. breath-test. yourcar-rental Contact company ing fora car before findingapoliceofficerandask- you’llhavethough, topayupiftheypersist. be askingformoney,playdumb.Inevitably, done nothingwrongandthepoliceappearto ifyouknowhave However, speeding. trafik polis law. Youmaybestoppedbyblue-uniformed thing likely tolandthemintroublewiththe notes of 5,10,20,50and100 lira. zmir. Ofthelocalprivately producedstreet Turkey Village byVillage; Azim Da Prices inthisbook are quoted inmore stable You couldalsofallfoulof the lawsonlese- For mosttravellers drivingistheonly For detailed touring,the For detailed If youhave anaccident,don’tmove the (1:850,000)–it’sOKatapinch, but at1:600,000isanothergoodoption. ğ kaza raporu ı ı . Youcanbefinedonthespotfor t Haritas ı m Mp pp96-7; (Map Oto AtlasTürkiye (RoadAtlas kuru h ı

(1:1,000,000; €3),byMap 9am-7pm Mon-Sat) ş (accidentreport). The

İ and a1liracoin, stiklal Caddesi. % 1:400,000;€17)atlas 0212-638 1313;Klodfarer Köy Türkiye İ stanbul. İ stanbul and stanbul or inthe İ Türkiye stanbul stanbul

ı Tour- 661 (New DIRECTORY DIRECTORY DIRECTORY change (PTTs), somepost offices offices, It’s easy to change major currencies inex- Moneychangers are rarely accepted. cards.Amexcards get cashadvancesonthese rants outsidemaintouristareas. Youcan also notbypensions andlocalrestau-although cepted byhotels, shops, bars andrestaurants, Visa and MasterCard/Access are widelyac- Credit Cards inmajoroffices cities. currencyian orCanadian exceptatbanks and toexchangeYou mayfinditdifficult Austral- rencies such asUKpounds andJapanese yen. exchange willchange offices othermajor cur- cies tochange, manybanks and although US dollars andeurosare theeasiestcurren- Cash banks themselves. often ratherthanbythe runbyfranchisees boothsgetting itbackinahurry–these are ATMstand-alone booth, itmaybetricky You canusuallydrawoutabout €350perday. machine throwsawobbly,orit’sholiday. daywhenthe fortheinevitable cash inreserve villages thatdon’thave them,andkeep some the money inthetownstotideyouthrough ATMs, provided youremember todrawout It’s possibletoget aroundTurkey usingonly instructions inEnglish, French andGerman. in mosttowns.Virtuallyallthemachines offer logosonthemachines; theyarefor these found CirrusandMaestroterCard, cardholders. Look ATMs Mas- newTurkish liratoVisa, dispense ATMs for smallpayments. try tokeep asupplyof smallmoneyonyou carry large-denomination notes onthem,so all before leaving. outside Turkey, somake sure youspendthem outside. Turkish liraare virtuallyworthless better exchange rate insidethecountrythan money intolirasinceyouwillprobably get a wait untilyouarrive inTurkey tochange your January to itstillmakes 2005.However, sense 12%. TheYeni TürkLiras 2003; by2004inflationwasdowntoaround in tostabilise as 70%–theTurkishlirastarted 662 Restaurateurs andshopowners don’toften After decadesof rampantinflation–ashigh Note that ifyourcardisswallowedbya IETR •Ps ••Post DIRECTORY ı wasintroducedin normally opentothepublicorare given a tip isappreciated. isincluded, butitusuallyisn’tanda service already thatyoumayassume be sohigh tourist-oriented 10% to20%themasseuse/masseur. Inthe Dolmu YTL5. the nearest 50 3% of theroomprice. he’llexpectabout andthetelevision) the lights doing this(andshowing youhowtoturnon your luggage andshow youtoyourroom.For In more expensive placesaporter willcarry directly. soyoumaywanttotipthestaff to thestaff, your bill,butthere’s noguaranteethisgoes 10% or15% expensive restaurants automaticallyadda tip about 10%to15%of thebill.Somemore coins inthechange tray.Elsewhere youshould In thecheapest restaurants localsleave afew Tipping this book. cies are listed ontheinsidefrontcover of hotels andrestaurants inmanytouristareas. eign currencies are readily accepted inshops, exchange rate instead. charge acommissionusuallyoffer aworse make heavy weatherof it.Placesthatdon’t for mailto otherTurkishcities; the slot isfor mailtoforeign countries, the Post yourletters inthepost office:the cost €0.65,andto all otherdestinations€0.80. other destinations €0.65.Letters toEurope Postcards toEuropecost€0.55, andtoall POST changing them. to goelsewhere orcharge youapremium for travellers cheques andwilleithertrytoget you itasaburdento changeand hotels usuallysee Our advice: shops don’t bringthem!Banks, Travellers Cheques for 10orsominutes isusuallyfine. tipthemfortheirtrouble.certainly Afew YTL guided tourbythecustodian,youshould shops andhotels, bankstend although to Tips are notexpected incheaper hotels. TurkeyAlthough hasnoblackmarket, for- If youare shown arounda site that isnot In Turkish baths youshould tiparound It’s usualtoroundupmetered fares taxi to Exchange major rates forseveral curren- servis ücreti servis ş kuru drivers expectatip. never hamams ş , so round up YTL4.70 to , soroundupYTL4.70 (service charge) to (service thefixed pricemay lonelyplanet.com ş ehiriçi yurtd yurtiçi for ı ş ı

to 8pm daily. Smaller post offices keepto 8pmdaily.Smallerpostoffices more inlargepost offices citiesare openfrom8am signs.Main cated byblack-on-yellow‘PTT’ andrates.on postoffices www.ptt.gov.trlocal mail.See forinformation lonelyplanet.com to designer boutiquesround theworld. Goodies here are increasingly beingexported ofup inthecupboard withinaweek returning. nirs, butmostof whatyoubuyhere won’tend Turkey. Sure, there are plentyof chintzy souve- by therange andqualityof thingstobuyin Travellers are anddelighted usually surprised SHOPPING to shippingparcelsworldwide. theircustomersoff andare usuallywellused long timehave novested interest inripping one. Shopsnight thathave inbusinessa been only likely tohappeniftheshopisafly-by- to findamuch cheaper item arriving.Thisis agreed tohave theshopkeeper ship itout,only readers whohave kilim and abeautiful bought and €140toAustralia. for a2kgparceltoEurope,€105theUSA tional courier,DHL,forexample,charges €85 for thefirst 1kg,then€5thereon. first 1kg,then€4thereon; andtoAustralia€15 then €2perkgthereon; toUSA,€14forthe to Europecostaround€14forthefirst 1kg, the postoffice. Parcels bysurfacemail sent packing andwrappingmaterials withyouto inspectedbeen byacustomsofficial. Take Turkey, yourparcelbefore don’tclose ithas If youdecidetoshipsomethinghomefrom Parcels accordingly. arrive (packets longer), even soplanahead toyou. sent valuable orimportant you willreceive have mail,sonever anything Province, Turkey. There are noguarantees Merkez District,Postcode,City, Postahane, addressed asfollows: Name,Poste Restante, withyourpassport.Lettersoffice) shouldbe mail, gotothe to noonand1.30pm4pm.Tocollectyour poste-restante generally from8.30am services, afternoon andalldaySunday. onSaturday to 5.30pm)andmaybeclosed limited hours (8.30amto12.30pmand1.30pm Turkish We receive occasionalcomplaintsfrom to weeks Letters sometimestake several Most postofficesintouristareas offer If you’dprefer of thesecurity an interna- postanes DIRECTORY ••Shopping DIRECTORY merkez postane (post offices) are (postoffices) indi- (mainpost

some of theguidelineslisted here: helptofollow buy aparticularcarpetitmight prices athome. Whendecidingwhetherto that you’llknowwhat’savailable andforwhat look intheshopsathomebefore youleave so a ing pricesandquality.It’salsoworthtaking buy, spendtimevisitingshops andcompar- potential purchasers. Toensure youget agood the tradeintodisrepute, puttingoffsome anticsofsell somedealers have tended tobring Iranian cousins. designs andmore variedcolours thantheir tend tohave pile,more ahigher dramatic Turkey thedoubleknot.Turkish carpetsalso in mindthatIranfavours thesingleknotand that yourcarpetisactuallyfromTurkey, bear andUzbekistan.Turkmenistan Ifitmatters and theex-Soviet republics of Azerbaijan, particular fromIran,Pakistan, Afghanistan piecesfromothercountries,in shops sell designs. many are patchwork orothercontemporary ful traditionaldesignsandtechniques, but woven matssuch askilims.Mostare beauti- carpets, theyusuallyoffer double-sidedflat- ety of thetraditionalpile techniques. Besides shops have arange of piecesmadebyavari- and kilims(flat-weave rugs).Mostcarpet Turkey isfamousforitsbeautiful carpets Carpets &Kilims cept inprimetouristlocations. ( p232). behind theubiquitousblue-glass eyes,see Check the closeness ofCheck thecloseness the weave byturn- A good-quality,long-lastingcarpet or the back. Ingeneral, the tighter theweave ing thecarpet orkilimover andinspecting The carpetmarket islucrative andthehard- As wellasTurkish carpets,mostcarpet If you’re wonderingabout themeaning piece canbeabad buy. and designare a100%woollen ugly,even tee akilimorcarpet’squality.Ifthe dyes just beingmadeof guaran- wooldoesn’t common towool.Butbearinmind that pet over and lookforthefine,frizzyfibres to identifythematerial istoturnthecar- cottonor‘flosh’.Another way mercerised the cheapest carpetsmaybemadefrom wool feels and scratchy andhasnosheen, signs of thenaturaloil?Recycled orcheap yün) kilim should be100%wool Note onSundayex- thatmost shops close . Isthewoolfineandshiny,with (yüz deyüz

663 DIRECTORY DIRECTORY DIRECTORY change (PTTs), somepost offices offices, It’s easy to change major currencies inex- Moneychangers are rarely accepted. cards.Amexcards get cashadvancesonthese rants outsidemaintouristareas. Youcan also notbypensions andlocalrestau-although cepted byhotels, shops, bars andrestaurants, Visa and MasterCard/Access are widelyac- Credit Cards inmajoroffices cities. currencyian orCanadian exceptatbanks and toexchangeYou mayfinditdifficult Austral- rencies such asUKpounds andJapanese yen. exchange willchange offices othermajor cur- cies tochange, manybanks and although US dollars andeurosare theeasiestcurren- Cash banks themselves. often ratherthanbythe runbyfranchisees boothsgetting itbackinahurry–these are ATMstand-alone booth, itmaybetricky You canusuallydrawoutabout €350perday. machine throwsawobbly,orit’sholiday. daywhenthe fortheinevitable cash inreserve villages thatdon’thave them,andkeep some the money inthetownstotideyouthrough ATMs, provided youremember todrawout It’s possibletoget aroundTurkey usingonly instructions inEnglish, French andGerman. in mosttowns.Virtuallyallthemachines offer logosonthemachines; theyarefor these found CirrusandMaestroterCard, cardholders. Look ATMs Mas- newTurkish liratoVisa, dispense ATMs for smallpayments. try tokeep asupplyof smallmoneyonyou carry large-denomination notes onthem,so all before leaving. outside Turkey, somake sure youspendthem outside. Turkish liraare virtuallyworthless better exchange rate insidethecountrythan money intolirasinceyouwillprobably get a wait untilyouarrive inTurkey tochange your January to itstillmakes 2005.However, sense 12%. TheYeni TürkLiras 2003; by2004inflationwasdowntoaround in tostabilise as 70%–theTurkishlirastarted 662 Restaurateurs andshopowners don’toften After decadesof rampantinflation–ashigh Note that ifyourcardisswallowedbya IETR •Ps ••Post DIRECTORY ı wasintroducedin YTL5. Dolmu YTL5. the nearest 50 3% of theroomprice. he’llexpectabout andthetelevision) the lights doing this(andshowing youhowtoturnon your luggage andshow youtoyourroom.For In more expensive placesaporter willcarry directly. soyoumaywanttotipthestaff to thestaff, your bill,butthere’s noguaranteethisgoes 10% or15% expensive restaurants automaticallyadda tip about 10%to15%of thebill.Somemore coins inthechange tray.Elsewhere youshould In thecheapest restaurants localsleave afew Tipping this book. cies are listed ontheinsidefrontcover of hotels andrestaurants inmanytouristareas. eign currencies are readily accepted inshops, exchange rate instead. charge acommissionusuallyoffer aworse make heavy weatherof it.Placesthatdon’t for mailto otherTurkishcities; the slot isfor mailtoforeign countries, the Post yourletters inthepost office:the cost €0.65,andto all otherdestinations€0.80. other destinations €0.65.Letters toEurope Postcards toEuropecost€0.55, andtoall POST changing them. to goelsewhere orcharge youapremium for travellers cheques andwilleithertrytoget you itasaburdento changeand hotels usuallysee Our advice: shops don’t bringthem!Banks, Travellers Cheques for 10orsominutes isusuallyfine. tipthemfortheirtrouble.certainly Afew YTL guided tourbythecustodian,youshould normally opentothepublicorare given a tip isappreciated. isincluded, butitusuallyisn’tanda service already thatyoumayassume be sohigh tourist-oriented 10% to20%themasseuse/masseur. Inthe shops andhotels, bankstend although to Tips are notexpected incheaper hotels. TurkeyAlthough hasnoblackmarket, for- It’s usualtoroundupmetered fares taxi to Exchange major rates forseveral curren- If youare shown arounda site that isnot In Turkish baths youshould tiparound servis ücreti servis ş kuru drivers expectatip. never hamams ş , so round up YTL4.70 to , soroundupYTL4.70 (service charge) to (service thefixed pricemay lonelyplanet.com ş ehiriçi yurtd yurtiçi for ı ş ı

some of theguidelineslisted here: helptofollow buy aparticularcarpetitmight prices athome. Whendecidingwhetherto that you’llknowwhat’savailable andforwhat look intheshopsathomebefore youleave so a ing pricesandquality.It’salsoworthtaking buy, spendtimevisitingshops andcompar- potential purchasers. Toensure youget agood the tradeintodisrepute, puttingoffsome anticsofsell somedealers have tended tobring Iranian cousins. designs andmore variedcolours thantheir tend tohave pile,more ahigher dramatic Turkey thedoubleknot.Turkish carpetsalso in mindthatIranfavours thesingleknotand that yourcarpetisactuallyfromTurkey, bear andUzbekistan.Turkmenistan Ifitmatters and theex-Soviet republics of Azerbaijan, particular fromIran,Pakistan, Afghanistan piecesfromothercountries,in shops sell designs. many are patchwork orothercontemporary ful traditionaldesignsandtechniques, but woven matssuch askilims.Mostare beauti- carpets, theyusuallyoffer double-sidedflat- ety of thetraditionalpile techniques. Besides shops have arange of piecesmadebyavari- and kilims(flat-weave rugs).Mostcarpet Turkey isfamousforitsbeautiful carpets Carpets &Kilims cept inprimetouristlocations. ( p232). behind theubiquitousblue-glass eyes,see Check the closeness ofCheck thecloseness the weave byturn- A good-quality,long-lastingcarpet or the back. Ingeneral, the tighter theweave ing thecarpet orkilimover andinspecting The carpetmarket islucrative andthehard- As wellasTurkish carpets,mostcarpet If you’re wonderingabout themeaning piece canbeabad buy. and designare a100%woollen ugly,even tee akilimorcarpet’squality.Ifthe dyes just beingmadeof guaran- wooldoesn’t common towool.Butbearinmind that pet over and lookforthefine,frizzyfibres to identifythematerial istoturnthecar- cottonor‘flosh’.Another way mercerised the cheapest carpetsmaybemadefrom wool feels and scratchy andhasnosheen, signs of thenaturaloil? Recycled orcheap yün) kilim should be100%wool Note onSundayex- thatmost shops close . Isthewoolfineandshiny,with (yüz deyüz

663 DIRECTORY DIRECTORY DIRECTORY

664 Unless youknowsomething about an- that whoasserts thesalesman Beware it isanantique. that faded inthesun,butnotnecessarily often anindicationthatthesurfacehas inthepile,it’s on thesurfacethandeep thecolours aretell you).If yousee lighter might fade (despite whatthesalesman the pile. Both naturalandchemical dyes your fingers andlookatthebottomof fetch prices.Spread higher thenapwith colours tend to bepreferred andtherefore with chemical dyes,butnaturaldyesand the last50years. There isnothingwrong method of colouringinthecountryfor dyes. Chemicaldyeshave themain been all hisrange are coloured withnatural quality anddurability of thepiece. the and thesmallerknots,higher but expensive), patched painted. oreven worn carpetscanberewoven (goodwork, be madetolookold,anddamaged or with newproductions.Newcarpetscan more expensive, it’sprobablybesttostick tique carpetsandkilims,which are always time it’s worth asking about asking time it’sworth usually fairlyclear about theirprices,althoughifyou’re travelling inwinter orstayingalong hotels to‘negotiate’ mayexpect theroompricewithyou. Intouristareas pensionownersare received theworld’slowestprice. atapriceyou’relike willingtopay,buyit,enjoyanddon’tworryaboutwhether ornotyou a strongmajorcurrency, orbypayingcash. bargaining youcanoften getadiscountbyoffering tobuyseveral items atonce,bypayingin humoured andpolite whenyouare bargaining willtoo. –ifyoudothistheshopkeeper When counteroffers. pricesbutnotmaking at similargoodsinseveral shops,asking Alwaysstaygood about theitems price. inquestion,nottomentiontheirmarket The bestwaytodothisislook buying theitem forwhattheyquoted. you offered.’ Even iftheydon’tstopyou,there’s nothingtoprevent youfromreturning later and know youcanfindtheitem elsewhere forless,they’llprobablycallout,‘OK,it’syourswhat outisoneofthebestwaystotest theauthenticityof‘last’offer. walking fact, Ifshopkeepers come toanagreement, andthenchangeyourmind. isarrived at.It’sconsideredacceptable tobothparties very badformtohaggleover aprice, a counteroffer 25%to50%lower. This several procedure timesbefore goesbackandforth aprice quirements. Finally, anumberofitems intheshopare displayedforthecustomer’sinspection. then discussionoftheshop’sgoodsingeneral,customer’stastes, preferences andre- seatandadrink( a comfortable Traditionally, when customers enter aTurkish asignificantpurchase,they’re shoptomake offered THE ARTOFBARGAINING IETR •Sopn ••Shopping DIRECTORY In general,youshouldn’t bargain in foodshopsorover costs. Outside touristareas, transport rule:findsomethingyouIf youdon’thave sufficienttime toshoparound,followtheage-old To bargain effectively youmustbeprepared yourtime,andyoumustknowsomething totake If youcan’tagree OKtosaygoodbyeandwalkoutoftheshop.In on apriceit’sperfectly The customeraskstheprice;shopowner gives it;thecustomerlooksdoubtfulandmakes indirim çay –tea, coffee orasoftdrink).There issomegeneralchitchat, (discounts). every souvenirevery shop.Someare old,most Gleaming coppervessels willgreet youin Copper themasornaments. use in lead-based glazesoit’sprobably safest to ofcraftspeople, withouttheuse patterns. pensive piecesare hand-painted bymaster filling intheholeswithcolour. Themostex- raw ceramic,tracingtheblackoutline,and by rubbingapatterned carbonpaperonthe arebowls, plates andotherpieces;these made One step upare theubiquitoushand-painted printing methodandthisiswhythey’re cheap. in shopshave painted usingasilkscreen been souvenir industry.Many of thetilesyousee ceramics wouldhave tobethemostsuccessful After carpets andkilims,Turkey’s beautiful Ceramics Note thatmany ceramicshave covered been price thepieceaccordingly. provided defects theypointoutthese and fering youapatched orrepainted carpet There’s nothingwrongwithadealerof- lonelyplanet.com cooking oreatingunlesstheyhave been by hand. gauge,lighter butwillstillhave made been Newcopperwareuseful. tends tobeof are handsomeandsomeare stilleminently lonelyplanet.com (tin) isexpensive. collar rubs. the buttonholes are positionedwelland the are whether thesleeves fullenough, and see Tryitonjustascarefullypiece thoroughly. chases. To besure of agoodbuy,examinethe country’s thrivingleatherindustry. material tobemadeintoleather;hencethe and lamb,youhave ahuge amount of raw of onmutton day-to-day needs acuisinebased get theaxe inTurkey. Addtothatthenormal the Sacrifice),more than2.5millionsheep On anygiven KurbanBayram Leather well aslabour. Silver, as imitations. too,issoldbyweight mark) butbeware nickel silver and pewter-like find sterling silver jewellery(lookforthehall- what partforlabour. calculate what partof thepriceisforgold and jeweller weighs thepieceinquestion,andthen in thedailypapers. Watch carefully asthe price forunworked goldof so-manycarat gold-buyersSerious shouldcheck thedaily windows filledwithgoldforbrides-to-be. market isadazzlingstripof glittering shop whether neworold.Jewellers’ Rowinany Turkey isawonderfulplacetobuyjewellery, Jewellery actually aluminiumorpewter. exist. Also,check whetherthe‘silver’ isnot days,alarminglyaccurate imitations – these Make sure whatyou’re buyingactuallyisinlay alloveror mother-of-pearl onsale Turkey. inlaid withdifferent coloured woods,silver (backgammon) boardsandallsortsof items You’ll findcigarette boxes, chess and Inlaid Wood have it interior layerof ornegotiate tinisintact to acoppervessel,tend make touse sure the tin thatcovers thetoxic copper. Ifyouin- tinned inside:thatis,washedwithmolten the priceof thetinninginadvance as Copper vessels should not be used forCopper vessels should notbeused Jackets are oneof themostpopularpur- Silver isanothermatter. Youcancertainly kalayl ı (tinned). Be sure toaskabout (tinned).Be DIRECTORY ••SoloTravellers DIRECTORY ı (Festival of teneke tavla

from Turkey is The international accesscodetocallabroad however, almosttwice asmuchhowever, International ratesthe UK,USA andAustralia. are, These get rates aslow as€0.25perminute toEurope, each pends onwhatthe phone’sownercharges for you accordingly.Thecostof alocalcallde- call andtheownerreads themeter andcharges telefon to lookforaboothwithsignsaying If you’re onlygoingtomake onecall,it’sbest Kontörlü Telefon % Turkey fromoverseas thecountrycodeis overseas Whencalling withlittledifficulty. costly. Youcandirect-dial withinTurkey and if isefficient andservice on phoneservices, Türk Telekom TELEPHONE more information. see on thehotel dooratmidnight; p668 for further thantheoccasionalunsolicited knock of theproblemsrarely it,although gomuch panions, asare thehostels in great potential placestomeet travelling com- tude thenTurkey’s manysmallpensions are status. to justifyyoursolitary you thatyou’re really aloneandexpectingyou go you’llhave peopledouble-checking with (except, perhaps, onbusiness). Wherever you couldn’t conceive of goinganywhere alone athickskinasmostTurks todevelop do need singletravellerston andtheirilk).However, price of adouble(exceptattheHilton,Shera- lers; onlyrarely willyouhave topaythefull head charge oroffer discountsforlonetravel- since mosthotels andpensionshave aper- Turkey isagreat countryfor solo travellers SOLO TRAVELLERS pa pipes portrayinganythingfromturbaned of thestoneproduces pipes. Artfulcarving mostfamouslytomake materialsistant isused Eski of this soft, white stone,are foundnearthecity finest bedsof thishydrousmagnesiumsilicate, schaum If yousmoke apipe,youknowabout meer- Meerschaum ş Lone have ahardertime women inevitably If you,too,are having doubtsabout soli- 90, andyoudropthe0onarea codes. as tomythologicalbeasts. kontör ş (metered telephone); youmake your ehir ( p303 ). Thisporousbutheat-re- (lületa ( (unit).Intouristy areas you can www.telekom.gov.tr % ş ı ). Theworld’slargest and 00. ) hasa monopoly İ stanbul. kontörlü

665 DIRECTORY DIRECTORY DIRECTORY

664 Unless youknowsomething about an- that whoasserts thesalesman Beware it isanantique. that faded inthesun,butnotnecessarily often anindicationthatthesurfacehas inthepile,it’s on thesurfacethandeep thecolours aretell you).If yousee lighter might fade (despite whatthesalesman the pile. Both naturalandchemical dyes your fingers andlookatthebottomof fetch prices.Spread higher thenapwith colours tend to bepreferred andtherefore with chemical dyes,butnaturaldyesand the last50years. There isnothingwrong method of colouringinthecountryfor dyes. Chemicaldyeshave themain been all hisrange are coloured withnatural quality anddurability of thepiece. the and thesmallerknots,higher but expensive), patched painted. oreven worn carpetscanberewoven (goodwork, be madetolookold,anddamaged or with newproductions.Newcarpetscan more expensive, it’sprobablybesttostick tique carpetsandkilims,which are always time it’s worth asking about asking time it’sworth usually fairlyclear about theirprices,althoughifyou’re travelling inwinter orstayingalong hotels to‘negotiate’ mayexpect theroompricewithyou. Intouristareas pensionownersare received theworld’slowestprice. atapriceyou’relike willingtopay,buyit,enjoyanddon’tworryaboutwhether ornotyou a strongmajorcurrency, orbypayingcash. bargaining youcanoften getadiscountbyoffering tobuyseveral items atonce,bypayingin humoured andpolite whenyouare bargaining willtoo. –ifyoudothistheshopkeeper When counteroffers. pricesbutnotmaking at similargoodsinseveral shops,asking Alwaysstaygood about theitems price. inquestion,nottomentiontheirmarket The bestwaytodothisislook buying theitem forwhattheyquoted. you offered.’ Even iftheydon’tstopyou,there’s nothingtoprevent youfromreturning later and know youcanfindtheitem elsewhere forless,they’llprobablycallout,‘OK,it’syourswhat outisoneofthebestwaystotest theauthenticityof‘last’offer. walking fact, Ifshopkeepers come toanagreement, andthenchangeyourmind. isarrived at.It’sconsideredacceptable tobothparties very badformtohaggleover aprice, a counteroffer 25%to50%lower. This several procedure timesbefore goesbackandforth aprice quirements. Finally, anumberofitems intheshopare displayedforthecustomer’sinspection. then discussionoftheshop’sgoodsingeneral,customer’stastes, preferences andre- seatandadrink( a comfortable Traditionally, when customers enter aTurkish asignificantpurchase,they’re shoptomake offered THE ARTOFBARGAINING IETR •Sopn ••Shopping DIRECTORY In general,youshouldn’t bargain in foodshopsorover costs. Outside touristareas, transport rule:findsomethingyouIf youdon’thave sufficienttime toshoparound,followtheage-old To bargain effectively youmustbeprepared yourtime,andyoumustknowsomething totake If youcan’tagree OKtosaygoodbyeandwalkoutoftheshop.In on apriceit’sperfectly The customeraskstheprice;shopowner gives it;thecustomerlooksdoubtfulandmakes indirim çay –tea, coffee orasoftdrink).There issomegeneralchitchat, (discounts). every souvenirevery shop.Someare old,most Gleaming coppervessels willgreet youin Copper themasornaments. use in lead-based glazesoit’sprobably safest to ofcraftspeople, withouttheuse patterns. pensive piecesare hand-painted bymaster filling intheholeswithcolour. Themostex- raw ceramic,tracingtheblackoutline,and by rubbingapatterned carbonpaperonthe arebowls, plates andotherpieces;these made One step upare theubiquitoushand-painted printing methodandthisiswhythey’re cheap. in shopshave painted usingasilkscreen been souvenir industry.Many of thetilesyousee ceramics wouldhave tobethemostsuccessful After carpets andkilims,Turkey’s beautiful Ceramics Note thatmany ceramicshave covered been price thepieceaccordingly. provided defects theypointoutthese and fering youapatched orrepainted carpet There’s nothingwrongwithadealerof- lonelyplanet.com cooking oreatingunlesstheyhave been by hand. gauge,lighter butwillstillhave made been Newcopperwareuseful. tends tobeof are handsomeandsomeare stilleminently lonelyplanet.com collar rubs. the buttonholes are positionedwelland the are whether thesleeves fullenough, and see Tryitonjustascarefullypiece thoroughly. chases. To besure of agoodbuy,examinethe country’s thrivingleatherindustry. material tobemadeintoleather;hencethe and lamb,youhave ahuge amount of raw of onmutton day-to-day needs acuisinebased get theaxe inTurkey. Addtothatthenormal the Sacrifice),more than2.5millionsheep On anygiven KurbanBayram Leather well aslabour. Silver, as imitations. too,issoldbyweight mark) butbeware nickel silver and pewter-like find sterling silver jewellery(lookforthehall- what partforlabour. calculate what partof thepriceisforgold and jeweller weighs thepieceinquestion,andthen in thedailypapers. Watch carefully asthe price forunworked goldof so-manycarat gold-buyersSerious shouldcheck thedaily windows filledwithgoldforbrides-to-be. market isadazzlingstripof glittering shop whether neworold.Jewellers’ Rowinany Turkey isawonderfulplacetobuyjewellery, Jewellery actually aluminiumorpewter. exist. Also,check whetherthe‘silver’ isnot days,alarminglyaccurate imitations – these Make sure whatyou’re buyingactuallyisinlay alloveror mother-of-pearl onsale Turkey. inlaid withdifferent coloured woods,silver (backgammon) boardsandallsortsof items You’ll findcigarette boxes, chess and Inlaid Wood (tin) isexpensive. the priceof thetinninginadvance as have it interior layerof ornegotiate tinisintact to acoppervessel,tend make touse sure the tin thatcovers thetoxic copper. Ifyouin- tinned inside:thatis,washedwithmolten Copper vessels should not be used forCopper vessels should notbeused Jackets are oneof themostpopularpur- Silver isanothermatter. Youcancertainly kalayl ı (tinned). Be sure toaskabout (tinned).Be DIRECTORY ••SoloTravellers DIRECTORY ı (Festival of teneke tavla

665 DIRECTORY DIRECTORY DIRECTORY but some US-, Canadian- andScandinavian- but someUS-,Canadian- Most phonesare GSM sotheyshouldbefine network operatingon900MHz or1800MHz. (Global System forMobile Communications) key, note GSM thatTurkey thestandard uses Turkcell costs around €17 and usually includes Turkcell costsaround€17andusuallyincludes as wellcompetitive rates. ASIMcardwith – asyou’llget goodcoverage over thecountry networks –Turkcell,Avea (Telsim) orMyCep in Turkey, it’sagoodideatostickthebig is with phonecards that you use withaland- is withphonecards thatyou use The cheapest optionforinternational calls INTERNATIONAL PHONECARDS newer phonesalso acceptmajor credit cards. intercity callsorshort international chats. The calls; and100units(€4.75)forlonger domestic 50 units(€2.75)forshort domesticintercity forlocalcalls; 30-unit card(€1.50)issufficient ones withchips onthemcalledSmartcards. magneticstripfloppy cards and cards inuse: mark-up, atsomeshops.There are of twosets attelephonebe bought centres or,forasmall phones. Allpayphonesrequire cardsthatcan International callscanbemadefromallpay- public squares termini. andtransportation most major public buildings andfacilities, Türk Telekom payphones canbefoundin Pay Phones&Phonecards but itdependsonwhatspecialsare on. orAvea,with Turkcell,alittlemore withMyCep topayaround€7/14for120/300 Expect of thelittlestreetside booths aroundthecountry. count. Youcanbuyprepaid phonecardsatany toTurkcellactivate through yourac- details your your passportandensure sends theseller some free com.tr key’s you leave home. MobilescanconnectwithTur- facility withyourhomephoneprovider before upaninternationalYou should roaming set mobilesphonesarebought notcompatible. a four-figure codebeginningwith the country.Mobile phonenumbers with start reception nearlyallof isexcellentthroughout Turks adore mobile ( Mobile Phones option ifyou’re onlymakingaquickcall. Phonecards (see below ), butmay bethebest 666 If you want use yourhomephoneinTur-If youwantuse If youwanttobuyaSIMcardwhileyou’re In general, both cards cost about the same. A In general, bothcardscostaboutthe same.A ) or IETR •Tm ••Time DIRECTORY Turkcell Avea kontör ( www.turkcell.com.tr ( www.avea.com.tr (unit); you’ll need to show toshow (unit);you’llneed cep, pocket) phones,and ) networks. ) networks. ), Telsim % ( www.telsim. 05. kontör

other timedifferences. www.timeanddate.com tocalculate land. See in Tokyo,7pmSydneyand9pmAuck- ver, 5aminNewYork,10amLondon,6pm İ saving time,whenit’snoonin ing daylight 4am onthelastSundayinOctober. Dur- from 3amonthelastSundayinMarch until UTC. saving (summertime) runs Daylight Turkish time istwo hours aheadof GMT/ TIME mobile phones. through cardsfind elsewhere. these Youcannotuse İ in thestreet-side booths intouristareas of cardsare These widelyavailablethrough. orcallswon’tgo knowntodisappear been as withothercompanies’cardscredit has phonecard company(such asIPCorBigalo) lots. It’sworthwhilestickingtoareputable in 300,1000(€8.50)and1500(€17) rope andtheUSA.IPCcardsare available minutes to alandline/mobile totheUK,Eu- line/mobile inAustralia,andaround26/6 you canspeakfor20/6minutes toaland- For a300- not Bigalo offer thebestrates are (note, these cinemas – require paymentof around €0.30. mosquehasabasictoilet. every In anemergency it’sworthremembering that found atmajor attractionsandtransport hubs. bin provided. you’re notsure, playitsafe andputitinthe if youdothismayfloodthepremises. If directly downthetoilet,butinmanyplaces slick, modernbathroomsyoucanflush paper which youusuallyprovide Inmost yourself. Youthendryyourselfwithtissues,needed. tube inthetoilet,which spurtswater where thelittlecopperwater from ajugortouse usingthelefthandwithis towashyourself the-ground modelsinTurkey. Thecustom have hole-in- sit-downtoilets,you’llalsosee Although most hotels andpublicfacilities TOILETS stanbul it’s2aminLosAngelesstanbul andVancou- stanbul and Ankara but can be difficult to andAnkarabutcanbedifficult stanbul and dialaway.Companiessuch asIPCand number, putinthePINumberoncard public phone. Youcallthenationaltoll-free line (iethephoneinyourhotel room)ora Most public toilets – even inrestaurantsMost public toilets–even or Turks use the24-hourclock. Turks use Fairly cleanpublictoiletscanusuallybe thecardswithTürkTelecom logo). kontör IPCcard(which costs€3) lonelyplanet.com kontör

2525 Massachusetts Ave,2525 Massachusetts Washington,DC20008) 29-30 StJames’sSt,LondonSW1A1HB) to noonor12.30pm,andfrom1.30pm Tourism. They’re usuallyopenfrom8.30am ficial tourist office runbytheMinistryof Every Turkish townof anysizehasanof- TOURIST INFORMATION lonelyplanet.com information. Affairs of Foreign the allows formultiple entries.See and, dependingon yournationality,usually dure forward. isstraight €10. Nophotosare required andtheproce- andIrish €45,Spanish, Italians Canadians British, AustraliansandUScitizens paid€15, varies;atthe timeofa touristtax) writing (essentially How much youpayforyourvisa beforeyour visa thequeueforimmigration). advance (make sure tojointhequeuebuy or borderpostratherthanatanembassyin just asticker onarrival attheairport bought butthisis avisa, the UKandUSAdoneed Netherlands,Portugal,Spain,Israel, Italy, of Greece, Ireland, Australia,Austria,Canada, Norway, SwedenandSwitzerland.Nationals Japan,land, France,Germany, NewZealand, Denmark,Fin- up tothree months: Belgium, others) a don’tneed tovisitTurkeyvisa for Nationals of thefollowingcountries(among VISAS USA UK Germany France outside Turkey: pension owner. outasympathetictouroperatoror to seek ing atouristoffice. Yourbestbetisusually this book,youare unlikely tofinditbyvisit- isnotalreadyIf theinformationyouneed in who speakanylanguage otherthanTurkish. whoknowanythingaboutthe area or staff locations. Unfortunately onlyahandfulhave and atweekends insummerpopulartourist 5.30pm MondaytoFriday,withlonger hours Avenue desChamps-Élysées,75008Paris) Angeles, CA90036) ( org; 821UNPlaza,NewYork,NY10017) 60329 Frankfurt) 3081; www.reiseland-tuerkei-info.de; BaselerStr35-37, -info.de; Tauentzien Str9-12, 10789) % ( The standard visa isvalidforthree visa monthsThe standard Following is a select listofFollowing isaselect touristoffices

% 323-937 8066;5055Wilshire Blvd,Suite850,Los New York ( 0207-839 7778; www.gototurkey.co.uk; 4thfl, 0207-839 7778;www.gototurkey.co.uk; % Berlin 01 45627868;www.infoturquie.com; 102 ( % ( % 212-687 2194;www.tourismturkey. Washington DC DIRECTORY •• Tourist Information ••Tourist DIRECTORY

(www.mfa.gov.tr) 030-214 3752; www.tuerkei-kultur 030-214 3752;www.tuerkei-kultur ( % Frankfurt 202-612 6800; forthe latest Los Angeles ( % Ministry Ministry 069-23

visa stamped inside. stamped visa ing), yourpassportwillbereturned withthe employment (acontractorletter fromyour passport, aphotoof yourproof yourself, of mit inperson form,your thecompleted visa two months before yourdeparture date sub- before you leave yourhomecountry.Atleast fromtheTurkishembassy orconsulatevisa) to extend their visa orgetto extend theirvisa residency. In theory than bother withthecostand hassleof trying threeCyprus orBulgaria every months rather ple) cross theborderintoGreece, Northern illegally (asprivate Englishtutors, forexam- still working. yearaslongyoucanproveable every you’re replaces inyourpassport.It’srenew- thevisa be ready inthree or four workingdaysand regularly).as itrises Yourpinkbookshould the processingfee (€320forayear,butcheck with yourpassport,five passportphotosand dothisforyou,apply If youremployerdoesn’t from the combined workpermitandresidence permit) a‘pinkbook’(apermit, youmustobtain After about three ( weeks and €200,dependingonyournationality). employer) andtherequired €140 fee (between a It’s besttoobtain Working Visas emniyet müdürlü Unless youspeak Turkish, dealing withthe and thencomebackinagainonafresh visa. leave thecountry(usuallytoaGreek island) costs involved meanthatit’smuch easierto emniyet müdürlü after three months atthenearest branch of the canberenewedIn theoryaTurkish visa once Visa Extensions every three months. convenient andcheaper tocrosstheborder €320 forayear,manyexpatsfinditmore the country.As thepermitcostsawhopping from outsidethecountry)orlegalworkwithin supporting yourself (savings, asteady income police) andshowthatyouhave somemeansof thelocal contact valid foronetotwoyears. to You’llneed tezkeresi three months, youcanapplyforan If inTurkeyyou plantostay formore than Residency Permits Once youarrive inTurkey withawork Most peoplewhoare workinginTurkey (residence permit),which isusually emniyet müdürlü emniyet müdürlü ğ ğ ü ü , butthebureaucracy and iscomplicated. çal ı ş ma vizesi In ğ ü ş (security police). (security allah, ğ Godwill- (working ü (security (security ikamet

667 DIRECTORY DIRECTORY DIRECTORY but some US-, Canadian- andScandinavian- but someUS-,Canadian- Most phonesare GSM sotheyshouldbefine network operatingon900MHz or1800MHz. (Global System forMobile Communications) key, note GSM thatTurkey thestandard uses Turkcell costs around €17 and usually includes Turkcell costsaround€17andusuallyincludes as wellcompetitive rates. ASIMcardwith – asyou’llget goodcoverage over thecountry networks –Turkcell,Avea (Telsim) orMyCep in Turkey, it’sagoodideatostickthebig is with phonecards that you use withaland- is withphonecards thatyou use The cheapest optionforinternational calls INTERNATIONAL PHONECARDS newer phonesalso acceptmajor credit cards. intercity callsorshort international chats. The calls; and100units(€4.75)forlonger domestic 50 units(€2.75)forshort domesticintercity forlocalcalls; 30-unit card(€1.50)issufficient ones withchips onthemcalledSmartcards. magneticstripfloppy cards and cards inuse: mark-up, atsomeshops.There are of twosets attelephonebe bought centres or,forasmall phones. Allpayphonesrequire cardsthatcan International callscanbemadefromallpay- public squares termini. andtransportation most major public buildings andfacilities, Türk Telekom payphones canbefoundin Pay Phones&Phonecards but itdependsonwhatspecialsare on. orAvea,with Turkcell,alittlemore withMyCep topayaround€7/14for120/300 Expect of thelittlestreetside booths aroundthecountry. count. Youcanbuyprepaid phonecardsatany toTurkcellactivate through yourac- details your your passportandensure sends theseller some free com.tr key’s you leave home. MobilescanconnectwithTur- facility withyourhomephoneprovider before upaninternationalYou should roaming set mobilesphonesarebought notcompatible. a four-figure codebeginningwith the country.Mobile phonenumbers with start reception nearlyallof isexcellentthroughout Turks adore mobile ( Mobile Phones option ifyou’re onlymakingaquickcall. Phonecards (see below ), butmay bethebest 666 If you want use yourhomephoneinTur-If youwantuse If youwanttobuyaSIMcardwhileyou’re In general, both cards cost about the same. A In general, bothcardscostaboutthe same.A ) or IETR •Tm ••Time DIRECTORY Turkcell Avea kontör ( www.turkcell.com.tr ( www.avea.com.tr (unit); you’ll need to show toshow (unit);you’llneed cep, pocket) phones,and ) networks. ) networks. ), Telsim % ( www.telsim. 05. kontör

2525 Massachusetts Ave,2525 Massachusetts Washington,DC20008) 29-30 StJames’sSt,LondonSW1A1HB) to noonor12.30pm,andfrom1.30pm Tourism. They’re usuallyopenfrom8.30am ficial tourist office runbytheMinistryof Every Turkish townof anysizehasanof- TOURIST INFORMATION lonelyplanet.com information. Affairs of Foreign the allows formultiple entries.See and, dependingon yournationality,usually dure forward. isstraight €10. Nophotosare required andtheproce- andIrish €45,Spanish, Italians Canadians British, AustraliansandUScitizens paid€15, varies;atthe timeofa touristtax) writing (essentially How much youpayforyourvisa beforeyour visa thequeueforimmigration). advance (make sure tojointhequeuebuy or borderpostratherthanatanembassyin just asticker onarrival attheairport bought butthisis avisa, the UKandUSAdoneed Netherlands,Portugal,Spain,Israel, Italy, of Greece, Ireland, Australia,Austria,Canada, Norway, SwedenandSwitzerland.Nationals Japan,land, France,Germany, NewZealand, Denmark,Fin- up tothree months: Belgium, others) a don’tneed tovisitTurkeyvisa for Nationals of thefollowingcountries(among VISAS USA UK Germany France outside Turkey: pension owner. outasympathetictouroperatoror to seek ing atouristoffice. Yourbestbetisusually this book,youare unlikely tofinditbyvisit- isnotalreadyIf theinformationyouneed in who speakanylanguage otherthanTurkish. whoknowanythingaboutthe area or staff locations. Unfortunately onlyahandfulhave and atweekends insummerpopulartourist 5.30pm MondaytoFriday,withlonger hours Angeles, CA90036) ( org; 821UNPlaza,NewYork,NY10017) Avenue desChamps-Élysées,75008Paris) 60329 Frankfurt) 3081; www.reiseland-tuerkei-info.de; BaselerStr35-37, -info.de; Tauentzien Str9-12, 10789) % ( The standard visa isvalidforthree visa monthsThe standard Following is a select listofFollowing isaselect touristoffices

(www.mfa.gov.tr) 030-214 3752; www.tuerkei-kultur 030-214 3752;www.tuerkei-kultur ( % Frankfurt 202-612 6800; forthe latest Los Angeles ( % Ministry Ministry 069-23 to extend their visa orgetto extend theirvisa residency. In theory than bother withthecostand hassleof trying threeCyprus orBulgaria every months rather ple) cross theborderintoGreece, Northern illegally (asprivate Englishtutors, forexam- still working. yearaslongyoucanproveable every you’re replaces inyourpassport.It’srenew- thevisa be ready inthree or four workingdaysand regularly).as itrises Yourpinkbookshould the processingfee (€320forayear,butcheck with yourpassport,five passportphotosand dothisforyou,apply If youremployerdoesn’t from the combined workpermitandresidence permit) a‘pinkbook’(apermit, youmustobtain inside. stamped visa ing), yourpassportwillbereturned withthe After about three ( weeks and €200,dependingonyournationality). employer) andtherequired €140 fee (between employment (acontractorletter fromyour passport, aphotoof yourproof yourself, of mit inperson form,your thecompleted visa two months before yourdeparture date sub- before you leave yourhomecountry.Atleast fromtheTurkishembassy orconsulatevisa) a It’s besttoobtain Working Visas emniyet müdürlü Unless youspeak Turkish, dealing withthe and thencomebackinagainonafresh visa. leave thecountry(usuallytoaGreek island) costs involved meanthatit’smuch easierto emniyet müdürlü after three months atthenearest branch of the canberenewedIn theoryaTurkish visa once Visa Extensions every three months. convenient andcheaper tocrosstheborder €320 forayear,manyexpatsfinditmore the country.As thepermitcostsawhopping from outsidethecountry)orlegalworkwithin supporting yourself (savings, asteady income police) andshowthatyouhave somemeansof thelocal contact valid foronetotwoyears. to You’llneed tezkeresi three months, youcanapplyforan If inTurkeyyou plantostay formore than Residency Permits Once youarrive inTurkey withawork Most peoplewhoare workinginTurkey (residence permit),which isusually emniyet müdürlü emniyet müdürlü ğ ğ ü ü , butthebureaucracy and iscomplicated. çal ı ş ma vizesi In ğ ü ş (security police). (security allah, ğ Godwill- (working ü (security (security ikamet

667 DIRECTORY DIRECTORY DIRECTORY tourist was murdered inanUrfa hotel and, oriented midrange hotels. In 2001aTaiwanese forlonewomenandstickwithfamily- suitable to acceptthatthe cheapest fleapitsare not avoid besidethedriver. getting intotheseat treated withrespect. Whentravelling bytaxi at yourdestination–youhave tobe a right hear, andrepeat yourcomplaintonarrival loudly, makingsure thatothers onthebus customers. Ifthathappenstoyou,complain harassingtheir femaleductors) buses onnight also received reports of some insomemen’sminds.Wehaveconnotations tohavesince thatseems ‘back-of-the-cinema’ not toldwhere tosit,avoid sittingattheback the frontof thebusneardriver. Ifyou’re and lonewomenare often at assignedseats to sitbesideeach buses, otherinlong-distance pants should attracttheleastattention. long andbaggy a headscarf,butlongsleeves todon don’tneed not friendly.Youcertainly your dealingswithmenformalandpolite, expect himnottoget thewrongidea. Keep for hours onendwiththelocal place topracticeyourTurkish (orKurdish) largely restricted tothehome. Thisisnotthe wearing longjackets. Life here forwomenis and willbeheadscarved youdosee and those ononehand, the numberof womenyousee Passing sometownsyoucancount through anything of it.Outeastit’s adifferent story. think especially sincemostwon’tnecessarily shops inwestern Turkey canbegreat fun, Having abanter withmeninrestaurants and arewithout leggings alwaysabitof ano-no. jeans,butcleavageand tight andshortskirts Beyo local womenare wearing.Onthestreets of clothing toyoursurrounds.Lookatwhat ple guidelines.Tailor yourbehaviour andyour and enjoyable,provided youfollowsomesim- Travelling Turkey asafemale traveller iseasy WOMEN TRAVELLERS ments. for thelatest require- informationabout visa embassy orconsulate inyourhomecountry www.e-konsolosluk.netandtheTurkish see eye tothisbendingof therules. experience mostof themhappilyturnablind full of recent inour However, Turkishstamps. couldqueryapassport an immigrationofficer 668 Men andunrelated womenare notexpected tochangeNote thatrules seem regularly, so When lookingfor ahotel, you mayhave IETR •WmnTaelr ••WomenTravellers DIRECTORY ğ lu in İ stanbul you’ll see skimpytops you’llsee stanbul yard kebapci ı mc ı s (con- and course. Jobhunters mayhave luckwiththe therelish, though are otheropportunitiesof and mostpeopleendupteachinglevel) Eng- to find(Turkey unemployment hasahigh lifetime. jobsaren’t However, allthateasy formonths,and endupstaying a oreven Some travellers cometoTurkey for aweek WORK salonu one) forfamilygroups.Looktheterm asideaspecialroom(orpartofusually set See p381 formore information. drugged withdrinksatacampinOlympos. two female travellers claimingtohave been also mentionthatwe’ve heardreports about upnonetheless.Weshould toweigh need this isavery rare occurrence, it’sariskyou Van withhermalecompanionand,while 2006 whilecampingbesideawaterfall near out east.Afemale traveller wasrapedinmid- there are plentyof peoplearound–especially campsitesstick toofficial andcampwhere morning, complaintothemanager. hotel door late don’topenit;inthe atnight, place forawoman.Ifthere isaknockonyour suggest thatthisisnotreallymight agreat grinds toahaltasyoucrossthethreshold it ifconversationoff, inthelobbyinvariably tions, you can usually still find a job, though tions, you canusuallystill find ajob, though the country. of themanyprivate language schools around sity, aprivate English teacher, eitherprivately, forauniver- It isalsopossibletoearnadecentliving asan Teaching English main agency dealingwithplacements. EbruAptNo25/2Etiler, Bebek YoluSokak, Anglo Nannies hours anddemandingemployers. Contact ing womenwhomustbeprepared forlong elite; work mainlyrestricted toEnglish-speak- involvesweek) nannyingforthewealthycity available toforeigners (from€550to€850per One of themostlucrative nonspecialistjobs Nannying com andhttp://istanbul.craigslist.org. www.mymerhaba.com, www.expatinturkey. Turkish Daily News while thatwasundoubtedly adreadful one- Restaurants thataimtoattractwomenRestaurants We recommend female travellers always If youdon’t have any teaching qualifica- (familydiningroom). (

% dershane 0212-287 6898;www.anglonannies.com; andtheexpatwebsites (school), orforone lonelyplanet.com İ stanbul, 80630) , the aile aile cate aswelltoplaceyourself withinreach of you shouldarmyourself withaTEFLcertifi- Bachelor of Education,majoring inEnglish) If youhave teaching qualifications(atleasta (where youcanexpectaround€11anhour). €30 perhour)orataprivate language school it’ll beprivate tuition(which paysfrom€17to lonelyplanet.com room andboardinpensions,bars andcarpet Many travellers alsofindworkillegallyfor Tourism and www.tefl.com. may alsowanttologontowww.eslcafe.com you listed intheintroductiontothissection, decided tostay. who foundaspotonbeautifulbeach and are desperate forteachers toreplace those around mid-tolate August,whenschools near theendof thesummerschool break, shanes teaching qualifications,norwillmost the bestjobs. Universities willnothire without in. Thebesttimeof theyeartojobhuntis homeandaworkpermitthrown tion, flights to €1400permonth,often withaccommoda- expect atleastaTEFL.Pay canbefrom€750 As job-hunting resources wellasthose , andthebestprivate language schools DIRECTORY ••Work DIRECTORY der- Ta Tu Ta Tu Ta Genctur Camp Alternative Turkey. Localoperators include: international organisationsnities through in companylistingvolunteering opportu- based Abroad helping outonanarchaeological dig. fromworkingonorganiceverything farmsto unteering opportunitiesinTurkey, offering There are aslowlygrowing numberof vol- Volunteer Work tion (itrarely actuallyhappens). rush aroundthreatening peoplewithprosecu- that there are occasionalshake-outs whenthey dim viewof foreigners ‘stealing’ localjobs and will. Butbewarnedthattheauthoritiestake a advantage thatyoucantake itorleave itat to renew Thissortof theirvisas. workhasthe shops, leaving three thecountryevery months people aroundthecountry. volunteer-based organisationrunningcampsfordisabled can stayforfree orforasmalldonationtocovercosts. some 60-oddorganicfarmsaroundthecountry,where you point ofcalltoseewhat’sonoffer inTurkey. schemesthroughoutthecountry,andagoodfirst teering (www.volunteerabroad.com) isaUK- (www.bugday.org/tatuta)Organisesworkon (www.genctur.com) A portal for various volun- forvarious (www.genctur.com) Aportal (www.alternativecamp.org)Afully © LonelyPlanetPublications Volunteer Volunteer

669 DIRECTORY DIRECTORY DIRECTORY tourist was murdered inanUrfa hotel and, oriented midrange hotels. In 2001aTaiwanese forlonewomenandstickwithfamily- suitable to acceptthatthe cheapest fleapitsare not avoid besidethedriver. getting intotheseat treated withrespect. Whentravelling bytaxi at yourdestination–youhave tobe a right hear, andrepeat yourcomplaintonarrival loudly, makingsure thatothers onthebus customers. Ifthathappenstoyou,complain harassingtheir femaleductors) buses onnight also received reports of some insomemen’sminds.Wehaveconnotations tohavesince thatseems ‘back-of-the-cinema’ not toldwhere tosit,avoid sittingattheback the frontof thebusneardriver. Ifyou’re and lonewomenare often at assignedseats to sitbesideeach buses, otherinlong-distance pants should attracttheleastattention. long andbaggy a headscarf,butlongsleeves todon don’tneed not friendly.Youcertainly your dealingswithmenformalandpolite, expect himnottoget thewrongidea. Keep for hours onendwiththelocal place topracticeyourTurkish (orKurdish) largely restricted tothehome. Thisisnotthe wearing longjackets. Life here forwomenis and willbeheadscarved youdosee and those ononehand, the numberof womenyousee Passing sometownsyoucancount through anything of it.Outeastit’s adifferent story. think especially sincemostwon’tnecessarily shops inwestern Turkey canbegreat fun, Having abanter withmeninrestaurants and arewithout leggings alwaysabitof ano-no. jeans,butcleavageand tight andshortskirts Beyo local womenare wearing.Onthestreets of clothing toyoursurrounds.Lookatwhat ple guidelines.Tailor yourbehaviour andyour and enjoyable,provided youfollowsomesim- Travelling Turkey asafemale traveller iseasy WOMEN TRAVELLERS ments. for thelatest require- informationabout visa embassy orconsulate inyourhomecountry www.e-konsolosluk.netandtheTurkish see eye tothisbendingof therules. experience mostof themhappilyturnablind full of recent inour However, Turkishstamps. couldqueryapassport an immigrationofficer 668 Note that rules seem tochangeNote thatrules seem regularly, so Men andunrelated womenare notexpected When lookingfor ahotel, you mayhave IETR •WmnTaelr ••WomenTravellers DIRECTORY ğ lu in İ stanbul you’ll see skimpytops you’llsee stanbul yard kebapci ı mc ı s (con- and course. Jobhunters mayhave luckwiththe therelish, though are otheropportunitiesof and mostpeopleendupteachinglevel) Eng- to find(Turkey unemployment hasahigh lifetime. jobsaren’t However, allthateasy formonths,and endupstaying a oreven Some travellers cometoTurkey for aweek WORK salonu one) forfamilygroups.Looktheterm asideaspecialroom(orpartofusually set See p381 formore information. drugged withdrinksatacampinOlympos. two female travellers claimingtohave been also mentionthatwe’ve heardreports about upnonetheless.Weshould toweigh need this isavery rare occurrence, it’sariskyou Van withhermalecompanionand,while 2006 whilecampingbesideawaterfall near out east.Afemale traveller wasrapedinmid- there are plentyof peoplearound–especially campsitesstick toofficial andcampwhere morning, complaintothemanager. hotel door late don’topenit;inthe atnight, place forawoman.Ifthere isaknockonyour suggest thatthisisnotreallymight agreat grinds toahaltasyoucrossthethreshold it ifconversationoff, inthelobbyinvariably tions, you can usually still find a job, though tions, you canusuallystill find ajob, though the country. of themanyprivate language schools around sity, aprivate English teacher, eitherprivately, forauniver- It isalsopossibletoearnadecentliving asan Teaching English main agency dealingwithplacements. EbruAptNo25/2Etiler, Bebek YoluSokak, Anglo Nannies hours anddemandingemployers. Contact ing womenwhomustbeprepared forlong elite; work mainlyrestricted toEnglish-speak- involvesweek) nannyingforthewealthycity available toforeigners (from€550to€850per One of themostlucrative nonspecialistjobs Nannying com andhttp://istanbul.craigslist.org. www.mymerhaba.com, www.expatinturkey. Turkish Daily News while thatwasundoubtedly adreadful one- Restaurants thataimtoattractwomenRestaurants We recommend female travellers always If youdon’t have any teaching qualifica- (familydiningroom). (

% dershane 0212-287 6898;www.anglonannies.com; andtheexpatwebsites (school), orforone lonelyplanet.com İ stanbul, 80630) , the aile aile cate aswelltoplaceyourself withinreach of you shouldarmyourself withaTEFLcertifi- Bachelor of Education,majoring inEnglish) If youhave teaching qualifications(atleasta (where youcanexpectaround€11anhour). €30 perhour)orataprivate language school it’ll beprivate tuition(which paysfrom€17to lonelyplanet.com room andboardinpensions,bars andcarpet Many travellers alsofindworkillegallyfor Tourism and www.tefl.com. may alsowanttologontowww.eslcafe.com you listed intheintroductiontothissection, decided tostay. who foundaspotonbeautifulbeach and are desperate forteachers toreplace those around mid-tolate August,whenschools near theendof thesummerschool break, in. Thebesttimeof theyeartojobhuntis homeandaworkpermitthrown tion, flights to €1400permonth,often withaccommoda- expect atleastaTEFL.Pay canbefrom€750 shanes teaching qualifications,norwillmost the bestjobs. Universities willnothire without As job-hunting resources wellasthose , andthebestprivate language schools DIRECTORY ••Work DIRECTORY der- Ta Tu Ta Tu Ta Genctur Camp Alternative Turkey. Localoperators include: international organisationsnities through in companylistingvolunteering opportu- based Abroad helping outonanarchaeological dig. fromworkingonorganiceverything farmsto unteering opportunitiesinTurkey, offering There are aslowlygrowing numberof vol- Volunteer Work tion (itrarely actuallyhappens). rush aroundthreatening peoplewithprosecu- that there are occasionalshake-outs whenthey dim viewof foreigners ‘stealing’ localjobs and will. Butbewarnedthattheauthoritiestake a advantage thatyoucantake itorleave itat to renew Thissortof theirvisas. workhasthe shops, leaving three thecountryevery months people aroundthecountry. volunteer-based organisationrunningcampsfordisabled can stayforfree orforasmalldonationtocovercosts. some 60-oddorganicfarmsaroundthecountry,where you point ofcalltoseewhat’sonoffer inTurkey. schemesthroughoutthecountry,andagoodfirst teering (www.volunteerabroad.com) isaUK- (www.bugday.org/tatuta)Organisesworkon (www.genctur.com) A portal for various volun- forvarious (www.genctur.com) Aportal (www.alternativecamp.org)Afully © LonelyPlanetPublications Volunteer Volunteer

669 DIRECTORY DIRECTORY TRANSPORT GETTING THERE&AWAY ling bytrain orbusexpect tobeheldupat what you are bringing in.Ifyou’re travel- so customs officerstight, maywanttosee east (Georgia, Iran,IraqorSyria)isgenerally the border. Türk Liras may alsowanttoconsiderhaving some Yeni topay foryourvisa.You you bringenough changing moneynor ATMs, somake sure border crossingsthere are nofacilitiesfor euros orUSdollars. Andatmanyof theland onlyin sometimes youcanpayforthevisa deal,but isthesame avisa trying. Getting to check yourbagsatairports. docustomsofficers Rarely stopyou details. queue for immigration. See p667 formore inyourpassportbeforestamp joiningthe you must the pointof entry.Ifyouflyinto thecountry really intheirpassportissuedat justastamp whichof a‘visa’ is isthatmostpeopleneed is pretty painless. Theonlysnagtobeaware speaking,entering TurkeyGenerally byair ENTERING THECOUNTRY CONTENTS Transport 670 © LonelyPlanetPublications oa rnpr 683 679 679 681 Train 684 Tours 684 678 Local Transport 683 Hitching Dolmu Car &Motorcycle Bus Boat 670 Bicycle 679 Air 679 Getting Around Tours 678 Sea 677 Land 673 Air 670 Entering theCountry etn hr wy 670 Getting There &Away Security onborders withcountries tothe Security Entering the countrybylandcanbemore ş s&Mdbss 683 es &Midibuses first ı (YTL) onyoubefore youget (YTL) to join thequeuetopayfor Sabiha Gökçen mainly services cheap flights Sabiha Gökçenmainlyservices and Taksim SqontheAsian side of thecity. Turkey’s busiestinternational airport is Airports &Airlines AIR Turkey. least three months’ life initafter youenter Make sure your passport willstillhave at Passport most capital citiesaround theworld. Ithasa most capital lines, which hasdirect from flights İ cluding Ankara,you usuallyhave totransit 274 2424). and therapidlyexpanding % (AYT; catch international to/from flights ing thebusysummermonths, youcanalso domestic routes. andsome from Europe,particularlyGermany, .sgairport.com) national Airport also hasasmallerairport, terminals The international of (theheartof Sultanahmet Old % İ stanbul’s stanbul’s stanbul. their paperworkinorder. longer ifyourfellow passengers don’thave the borderfortwotothree hours –oreven Turkey’s national carrierisTurkish Air- theyear,but especiallydur-Throughout careful, up-to-date research. ers andare notasubstitute foryourown this chapter shouldberegarded aspoint- travel. Shopcarefully. The detailsgiven in security requirements forinternational you maybuy)worksandbeaware ofthe sure youunderstandhowafare (andticket with theairlineoratravel agenttomake larly vulnerabletochange. Checkdirectly The informationinthischapter isparticu- THINGS CHANGE... 0252-523 0101) 0212-465 3000;www.dhmiata.gov.tr)

% 0242-330 3221;www.aytport.com) From Turkey’s otherairports,in- (iç hatlar) Atatürk International Airport Airport International Atatürk , some50kmeastof Sultanahmet , (code SAW; Dalaman (d are side byside. ı ş hatlar)

% (DLM;

Sabiha GökçenInter- İ zmir 0216-585 5000;www % anddomestic , 23kmwest

(ADB; , 0252-692 5899) Bodrum İ İ stanbul to stanbul stanbul). stanbul). İ % (code IST; Antalya stanbul stanbul 0232-

(BJV;

in formostof airlines details these For contact AIRLINES FLYING TO&FROM TURKEY pretty goodtoo. isusually reasonable safety record, andservice lonelyplanet.com Pegasus Airlines Onur Air Olympic Airways Lufthansa DutchAirlines KLM-Royal Japan Airlines Iran Air Iberia Hapag Lloyd Wings German Fly Air Airlines Emirates EasyJet Airlines Cyprus Turkish Airlines Corendon Condor Airways British Airlines Azerbaijan Airlines American Alitalia Air France Aeroflot

İ consumption over awholeyear. the USAwillcontribute asmuchtoclimate changeasanaverage household’sgasandelectricity mosphere. The statisticsare areturn frightening: flightbetweenEurope twopeopletaking and distances theyallowustotravel, butbecausetheyrelease greenhouse gaseshighintotheat- climate change),butplanesare farandawaytheworstoffenders, notjustbecauseofthesheer staff andauthortravel. the carbonoffset schemerunbyclimatecare.org.dustry, support LonelyPlanetoffsets allofits and Uganda. travel schemes thatreduce inIndia,Honduras,Kazakhstan globalwarming–including projects level ofgreenhouse gasestheyare responsible forwithfinancialcontributionstosustainable Climatecare.org and otherwebsites use‘carboncalculators’thatallowtravellers to offset the Carbon Offset Schemes Pretty much every formofmotorisedtravel generates CO Flying &Climate Change global warming. as aglobalbenefit,butbelieves weallhave aresponsibility on tolimitourpersonalimpact air travel isthefastest-growing contributortotheproblem.LonelyPlanetregards travel, overall, Climate changeisaseriousthreat totheecosystems that humansandwildlife rely upon,and CLIMATE CHANGE &TRAVEL stanbul, see see stanbul, p155 . For more information check out ourwebsite: www.lonelyplanet.com. inthetravel in- Lonely Planet,together withRoughGuidesandotherconcerned partners (IB; www.iberia.com) (FLM; www.flyair.com.tr) (DE;www.condor.de) (AZ;www.alitalia.com) (IR;www.iranair.com) (EZY; www.easyjet.com) (EZY; (OHY; www.onurair.com.tr/eng/) (airline codeAFL;www.aeroflot.com) (AF;www.airfrance.com) (LH; www.lufthansa.com) (HFwww.hlx.com) (JL; www.jal.co.jp/en) (JL; (BA;www.britishairways.com) (GWI; www25.germanwings.com) (PGT; www.flypgs.com) (OA; www.olympicairlines.com) GETTING THERE&AWAY ••Air GETTING (EK; www.emirates.com) (AA;www.aa.com) (CAI;www.corendon.com) (AHY;www.azal.az) (KTHY; www.kthy.net) (KTHY; (KL; www.klm.com) cheaper withEuropeanairlinessuch flights as from SydneyorMelbourne. Youcanoften get for aroundA$1200/1890(one-way/return) ates, Japan, Malaysia andSingapore Airlines You canflydirectly to Australia andincludeairporttaxes. season early Apriluntillate August. plan toarrive inthecountryanytimefrom to/fromTurkeyin advanceforflights ifyou special deals. Turkeywise isnotthebestdestinationfor Some airlinesoffer studentfares too. Other- Turkish AirlinesandAzerbaijanAirlines. by bookingonless-usualairlinesegCyprus İ and EasyJet, London(Luton) which fliesbetween toTurkey, Germany andwith ing through Europeand routes between If you’re after cheap thecheapest flights, Tickets Airlines Turkish Airlines Singapore stanbul. Sometimesyoucanalsofindthem stanbul. It’s agoodideatobookatleasttwomonths Flights quotedFlights inthischapter are forpeak İ stanbul, and Switzerland (Basel) and andSwitzerland(Basel) stanbul, ₂ (themaincauseofhuman-induced (Türk HavaYollar (Türk (SIA; www.singaporeair.com) İ stanbul withEmir-stanbul ı , THY;www.thy.com) İ stanbul arestanbul fly-

671 TRANSPORT TRANSPORT TRANSPORT GETTING THERE&AWAY ling bytrain orbusexpect tobeheldupat what you are bringing in.Ifyou’re travel- so customs officerstight, maywanttosee east (Georgia, Iran,IraqorSyria)isgenerally the border. Türk Liras may alsowanttoconsiderhaving some Yeni topay foryourvisa.You you bringenough changing moneynor ATMs, somake sure border crossingsthere are nofacilitiesfor euros orUSdollars. Andatmanyof theland onlyin sometimes youcanpayforthevisa deal,but isthesame avisa trying. Getting to check yourbagsatairports. docustomsofficers Rarely stopyou details. queue for immigration. See p667 formore inyourpassportbeforestamp joiningthe you must the pointof entry.Ifyouflyinto thecountry really intheirpassportissuedat justastamp whichof a‘visa’ is isthatmostpeopleneed is pretty painless. Theonlysnagtobeaware speaking,entering TurkeyGenerally byair ENTERING THECOUNTRY CONTENTS Transport 670 © LonelyPlanetPublications oa rnpr 683 679 679 681 Train 684 Tours 684 678 Local Transport 683 Hitching Dolmu Car &Motorcycle Bus Boat 670 Bicycle 679 Air 679 Getting Around Tours 678 Sea 677 Land 673 Air 670 Entering theCountry etn hr wy 670 Getting There &Away Security onborders withcountries tothe Security Entering the countrybylandcanbemore ş s&Mdbss 683 es &Midibuses first ı (YTL) onyoubefore youget (YTL) to join thequeuetopayfor Sabiha Gökçen mainly services cheap flights Sabiha Gökçenmainlyservices and Taksim SqontheAsian side of thecity. Turkey’s busiestinternational airport is Airports &Airlines AIR Turkey. least three months’ life initafter youenter Make sure your passport willstillhave at Passport most capital citiesaround theworld. Ithasa most capital lines, which hasdirect from flights İ cluding Ankara,you usuallyhave totransit 274 2424). and therapidlyexpanding % (AYT; catch international to/from flights ing thebusysummermonths, youcanalso domestic routes. andsome from Europe,particularlyGermany, .sgairport.com) national Airport also hasasmallerairport, terminals The international of (theheartof Sultanahmet Old % İ stanbul’s stanbul’s stanbul. their paperworkinorder. longer ifyourfellow passengers don’thave the borderfortwotothree hours –oreven Turkey’s national carrierisTurkish Air- theyear,but especiallydur-Throughout careful, up-to-date research. ers andare notasubstitute foryourown this chapter shouldberegarded aspoint- travel. Shopcarefully. The detailsgiven in security requirements forinternational you maybuy)worksandbeaware ofthe sure youunderstandhowafare (andticket with theairlineoratravel agenttomake larly vulnerabletochange. Checkdirectly The informationinthischapter isparticu- THINGS CHANGE... 0252-523 0101) 0212-465 3000;www.dhmiata.gov.tr)

% (DLM;

Sabiha GökçenInter- İ zmir 0216-585 5000;www % anddomestic , 23kmwest

(ADB; , 0252-692 5899) Bodrum İ İ stanbul to stanbul stanbul). stanbul). İ % (code IST; Antalya stanbul stanbul 0232-

(BJV;

İ staff andauthortravel. the carbonoffset schemerunbyclimatecare.org.dustry, support LonelyPlanetoffsets allofits and Uganda. travel schemes thatreduce inIndia,Honduras,Kazakhstan globalwarming–including projects level ofgreenhouse gasestheyare responsible forwithfinancialcontributionstosustainable Climatecare.org and otherwebsites use‘carboncalculators’thatallowtravellers to offset the Carbon Offset Schemes consumption over awholeyear. the USAwillcontribute asmuchtoclimate changeasanaverage household’sgasandelectricity mosphere. The statisticsare areturn frightening: flightbetweenEurope twopeopletaking and distances theyallowustotravel, butbecausetheyrelease greenhouse gaseshighintotheat- climate change), butplanesare farandawaytheworstoffenders, notjustbecauseofthesheer Pretty much every formofmotorisedtravel generates CO Flying &Climate Change global warming. as aglobalbenefit,butbelieves weallhave aresponsibility on tolimitourpersonalimpact air travel isthefastest-growing contributortotheproblem.LonelyPlanetregards travel, overall, Climate changeisaseriousthreat totheecosystems that humansandwildlife rely upon,and CLIMATE CHANGE &TRAVEL stanbul, see see stanbul, p155 . For more information check out ourwebsite: www.lonelyplanet.com. inthetravel in- Lonely Planet,together withRoughGuidesandotherconcerned partners (IB; www.iberia.com) (FLM; www.flyair.com.tr) (DE;www.condor.de) (AZ;www.alitalia.com) (IR;www.iranair.com) (EZY; www.easyjet.com) (EZY; (OHY; www.onurair.com.tr/eng/) (airline codeAFL;www.aeroflot.com) (AF;www.airfrance.com) (LH; www.lufthansa.com) (HFwww.hlx.com) (JL; www.jal.co.jp/en) (JL; (BA;www.britishairways.com) (GWI; www25.germanwings.com) (PGT; www.flypgs.com) (OA; www.olympicairlines.com) GETTING THERE&AWAY ••Air GETTING (EK; www.emirates.com) (AA;www.aa.com) (CAI;www.corendon.com) (AHY;www.azal.az) (KTHY; www.kthy.net) (KTHY; (KL; www.klm.com) cheaper withEuropeanairlinessuch flights as from SydneyorMelbourne. Youcanoften get for aroundA$1200/1890(one-way/return) ates, Japan, Malaysia andSingapore Airlines You canflydirectly to Australia andincludeairporttaxes. season early Apriluntillate August. plan toarrive inthecountryanytimefrom to/fromTurkeyin advanceforflights ifyou special deals. Turkeywise isnotthebestdestinationfor Some airlinesoffer studentfares too. Other- Turkish AirlinesandAzerbaijanAirlines. by bookingonless-usualairlinesegCyprus İ and EasyJet, London(Luton) which fliesbetween toTurkey, Germany andwith ing through Europeand routes between If you’re after cheap thecheapest flights, Tickets Airlines Turkish Airlines Singapore stanbul. Sometimesyoucanalsofindthem stanbul. It’s agoodideatobookatleasttwomonths Flights quotedFlights inthischapter are forpeak İ stanbul, and Switzerland (Basel) and andSwitzerland(Basel) stanbul, ₂ (themaincauseofhuman-induced (Türk HavaYollar (Türk (SIA; www.singaporeair.com) İ stanbul withEmir-stanbul ı , THY;www.thy.com) İ stanbul arestanbul fly-

671 TRANSPORT TRANSPORT TRANSPORT www.barceloviajes.com) .otu.fr) ply discounttickets totravellers of allages. lines have daily direct services from lines have dailydirect services we recommended is oneof themajor travel agencies. InSpain, .nouvelles-frontieres.fr) .com) Voyageurs duMonde Airlines (see p671 details). forcontact Hapag WingsorCorendon Lloyd,German Bodrum, Dalamanand citiesand German several of charter airlinesoffering between flights and hasdirectLufthansa to flights some great thetwocountries. dealsbetween munity outsideTurkey, which hasenabled modation deals. your localtravel agents andaccom- forflight Europe. Ifyouplantovisitaresort, check with .statravel.com/worldwide.htm) fly viaFrankfurteach way. you fly usually involve changing planesenroute, soif canbefoundforaround€160but turn flights İ Most Europeannationalcarriers flydirect to to Turkey fromoneEuropeancityoranother. there’sGenerally, notmuch variationinfares Continental Europe .airlineticketsdirect.com). Airlineticketsdirect.com nationalstudenttravelCanada’s agency, or Try andAirCanada. C$950/1550 withLufthansa return fares from Europe.in theUKandcontinental One-way/ couver connectwith andVan- fromToronto,Ottawa Most flights Canada Best Flights Flight Centre are frustrating! before catching backto a flight ropean cityfirst (ieFrankfurtforLufthansa), butyou’llhaveLufthansa, totransitinaEu- 672 stanbul foraround€200return.stanbul Cheaperre- Turkish Airlines andCyprus Turkish Air- In Italy, In Italy, hasthebiggest Turkishcom- Germany Three well-knownagencies forcheap fares In France, STA Travel Travelcuts Travelcuts and İ isaimedatstudenttravel, butcansup- ETN HR WY • i THERE&AWAY ••Air GETTING zmir from€160.There are alsoanumber İ stanbul–Paris you’d withLufthansa, Nouvelles Frontières Nouvelles

( %

( CTS Viaggi CTS %

( ( OTUVoyages % % 1300 767757;www.bestflights.com.au). 133 133;www.flightcentre.com.au) 1300 733035;www.statravel.com.au), 1866-246 9762;www.travelcuts.com), are alsorecommended. . Barcelo Viajes

İ ( stanbul start ataround start stanbul %

( has offices throughout throughout hasoffices % stanbul-bound flights ( 08 92688363;www.vdm % ( İ % zmir. TryCondor, 199 501150;www.cts.it) ( %

1877-679 8500;www İ stanbul, Antalya, Antalya, stanbul, 01 55823232;www STA Travel İ 08 25000747;www stanbul, Ankara stanbul, (

İ % stanbul –verystanbul 902 116226; İ stanbul, stanbul,

(www and

.co.nz) and pasar and pasar İ good dealsonitswebsite Asia between and for €250.Singapore Airlinesoften hasvery FlyAirfliestoKhartoum and Bangkok. to Pakistan andfurtherafieldtoHongKong İ to flyviaDubai.Emirates Airlinesfliesto northeast orsoutheastAsia andTurkey is (Iran), foraslittle€120. toTehranAirlines hasdailyflights andTabriz way between lines andFlyAirhave each aweek twoflights countries, butyoucanfly.BothArmavia Air- you can’ttravel overland thetwo between Turkey der between andArmeniaisclosed, arethese generally cheaper. thebor- Because and Baku between Azerbaijan Airlinesalsooffers direct flights (Azerbaijan)foraround€300each way. Baku flies country’s nationalcarrier. TurkishAirlines withTurkish Airlinesorthe pick upaflight the centralAsian countries,youcanusually If youwanttoflyto/fromTurkey from anyof Middle East&Asia (Northern Nicosia). İ are usuallycheaper atthebeginning andend Or youcould lookintocharter which flights, EasyJetEuropean city(though flies direct). expect toflyTurkey withatransitin (Luton) and London. EasyJet fliesdirect London between between Turkish Airlinesusuallyhasdirect only flights UK£200 return), Dalaman,Ankaraand key. British Airlinesflies into offer direct LondonandTur- between flights British Airways,Turkish AirlinesandEasyJet UK &Ireland .co.nz) fares are alsoworthchecking. butSingapore AirlinesandQantas Zealand, NZ$1500/2400 oneway/return onAirNew Fares to New Zealand zmir andAnkaratoErcanairportatLefko stanbul andoverstanbul ninedestinationsinIndia, stanbul, withreturn Den- stanbul, between flights Flight Centre For mostcheap youcangenerally flights One of thecheapest waystoget between İ İ are recommended travel agencies. and stanbul forjust€450. stanbul stanbul–Tbilisi (Georgia) and stanbul–Tbilisi İ İ STA Travel stanbul (fromUK£200return)stanbul and İ stanbul from Auckland start at fromAucklandstart stanbul stanbul aslow€480,Singaporestanbul İ stanbul fromUK£80return.stanbul İ

stanbul andYerevan.stanbul Turkish ( %

( 0800 243544;www.flightcentre % İ stanbul orAnkara,and stanbul 0508-782 872;www.statravel lonelyplanet.com İ stanbul (from stanbul İ stanbul– İ zmir. ş a sonfly.com don, Manchester, andNewcastle. Nottingham Bristol,Gatwick,Lon- from Birmingham, ChartertoTurkeyone/two weeks. flights go inadvance,arebought UK£149/199for Typicalreturnof theseason. charter fares, lonelyplanet.com passengers. Turkey andSyria –notthenumber of fellow at theReyhanl cars banked upatsome borders –especially by thelonglineofcan becaused trucksand idea of beaware trains,however, thatdelays trainload of youditch passengers. the Before but naturallytakes alonger whenthere’s a relatively quickprocessifyou’re onabus, lers onbothsidesof theborder. Thisis a paperwork andbaggage check of alltravel- have toget thebusortrainandendure off a oneandthreebetween hours. You’llusually butexpectdelaysoffairly straightforward, Crossing land borders bybusandtrainis Border Crossings before leaving home(see p657 ). embassy forthemostup-to-date information you cancross.Alwayscheck withtherelevant the availability of andwhenwhere visas neighbours tend which tobetense, canaffect that Turkey’s relationships withmostof its inmind,however, countries.Bear with eight spoilt forchoice sinceTurkey haslandborders If youare planningtotravel overland, you’llbe LAND Travelocity STA Travel Expedia Europe. Airlines, butyou’llhave tochange planesin orKLM-RoyalDutch withLufthansa flight too. You’llprobably get amarginally cheaper return. andAmericanAirlines, TryDelta From LosAngeles fares atUS$1650 start from NewYorkabout US$1400return. Turkish Airlinesoffers to flights USA Usit Unlimited Trailfinders STA Travel UK andIreland: ( Try onlinecharter agents flight % Other recommended travel agencies inthe Some leadingUStravel agencies: 0870-758 9589;www.justtheflight.co.uk) ( %

( ( ( % % ( ( % % % 800-397 3342;www.expedia.com) ( 800-781 4040;www.statravel.com) 0870-163 0026;www.statravel.co.uk) 0870-190 0737;www.thomsonfly.com). % 888-872 8356;www.travelocity.com) ı 0845-058 5858;www.trailfinders.co.uk) –Bab al-Hawa–Bab borderbetween GETTING THERE&AWAY ••Land GETTING 01 6021904;www.usitworld.com) Just theFlight and İ stanbul Thom- crossing at Lesovo–Hamzabeyli, some25km see p172 . There newlyopened, isa second, which isopen24hours daily. Formore details, accommodation are available atthiscrossing, foreign-exchange facilities,restaurants and theGreek–Turkishtween border posts.Petrol, to hitch aliftorhire ratherthanwalkbe- ataxi grad, some10kmfromtheborder. Youhave townon theBulgariansideisSvilen-closest Kap der crossingisthebusyKapitan–Andreevo/ BulgariaandTurkey.between Themainbor- Bulgaria. There are three bordercrossings train orbusfrommanypointsinEuropevia It’s fairlyeasytoget to Bulgaria &EasternEurope I of remote Borualan–Sadarak borderpost,east Azerbaijani enclave viathe of Nakhichevan change –see forabustoBaku p554 . otogar headingforTbilisi,where youcan departfromTrabzon’s At leasttwodailybuses Azerbaijan (Nakhichevan) for Yerevan –see p554 . departfromTrabzon’s otogarheading weekly travel bybusviaGeorgia. Atleastthree buses nia (orviceversa) youcanfly(see opposite ) or lomatic interests in Turkey). (the RussianembassyhandlesArmeniandip- could alwayschange soit’sworthchecking totravellers.border wasclosed Thesituation At thetimeof writing,theTurkish– Armenian Armenia following. therelevant countryheadingsings, see tedious process. which isa must beputunderacustomsseal, Turkey andreturn tocollectitlater, thecar of thecar!Ifyouwanttoleave yourcarin customs dutyequaltothefullretail value overstay yourpermit,youmayhave topay again before thesixmonths isup.Ifyou up tosixmonths, butbesure totake itout documents are required toimportacarfor Nospecial should befairlystraightforward. Baku. Karabakh toreach therest of Azerbaijan and to flyacross Armenian-occupiedNagorno- You canalsocrossfromTurkey to the If youwanttotravel fromTurkey toArme- For more oneach country’sbordercross- Crossing theborder withyourownvehicle ğ ı kule, 18kmwestof EdirneontheE5.The d ı r (see r (see p586 ). Fromthere you’llneed İ stanbul bydirectstanbul

673 TRANSPORT TRANSPORT TRANSPORT www.barceloviajes.com) .otu.fr) ply discounttickets totravellers of allages. lines have daily direct services from lines have dailydirect services we recommended is oneof themajor travel agencies. InSpain, .nouvelles-frontieres.fr) .com) Voyageurs duMonde Airlines (see p671 details). for contact Hapag WingsorCorendon Lloyd,German Bodrum, Dalamanand citiesand German several of charter airlinesoffering between flights and hasdirectLufthansa to flights some great thetwocountries. dealsbetween munity outsideTurkey, which hasenabled modation deals. your localtravel agents andaccom- forflight Europe. Ifyouplantovisitaresort, check with .statravel.com/worldwide.htm) fly viaFrankfurteach way. you fly usually involve changing planesenroute, soif canbefoundforaround€160but turn flights İ Most Europeannationalcarriers flydirect to to Turkey fromoneEuropeancityoranother. there’sGenerally, notmuch variationinfares Continental Europe .airlineticketsdirect.com). Airlineticketsdirect.com nationalstudenttravelCanada’s agency, or Try andAirCanada. C$950/1550 withLufthansa return fares from Europe.in theUKandcontinental One-way/ couver connectwith andVan- fromToronto,Ottawa Most flights Canada Best Flights Flight Centre are frustrating! before catching backto a flight ropean cityfirst (ieFrankfurtforLufthansa), butyou’llhaveLufthansa, totransitinaEu- 672 stanbul foraround€200return.stanbul Cheaperre- Turkish Airlines andCyprus Turkish Air- Three well-knownagencies forcheap fares In Italy, In Italy, hasthebiggest Turkishcom- Germany In France, STA Travel Travelcuts Travelcuts and İ isaimedatstudenttravel, butcansup- ETN HR WY • i THERE&AWAY ••Air GETTING zmir from€160.There are alsoanumber İ stanbul–Paris you’d withLufthansa, Nouvelles Frontières Nouvelles

( %

( CTS Viaggi CTS %

( ( OTUVoyages % % 1300 767757;www.bestflights.com.au). 133 133;www.flightcentre.com.au) 1300 733035;www.statravel.com.au), 1866-246 9762;www.travelcuts.com), are alsorecommended. . Barcelo Viajes

İ ( stanbul start ataround start stanbul %

( has offices throughout throughout hasoffices % stanbul-bound flights ( 08 92688363;www.vdm % ( İ % zmir. TryCondor, 199 501150;www.cts.it) ( %

1877-679 8500;www İ stanbul, Antalya, Antalya, stanbul, 01 55823232;www STA Travel İ 08 25000747;www stanbul, Ankara stanbul, (

İ % stanbul –verystanbul 902 116226; İ stanbul, stanbul,

(www and

.co.nz) and and pasar İ good dealsonitswebsite Asia between and for €250.Singapore Airlinesoften hasvery FlyAirfliestoKhartoum and Bangkok. to Pakistan andfurtherafieldtoHongKong İ to flyviaDubai.Emirates Airlinesfliesto northeast orsoutheastAsia andTurkey is (Iran), foraslittle€120. toTehranAirlines hasdailyflights andTabriz way between lines andFlyAirhave each aweek twoflights countries, butyoucanfly.BothArmavia Air- you can’ttravel overland thetwo between Turkey der between andArmeniaisclosed, arethese generally cheaper. thebor- Because and Baku between Azerbaijan Airlinesalsooffers direct flights (Azerbaijan)foraround€300each way. Baku flies country’s nationalcarrier. TurkishAirlines withTurkish Airlinesorthe pick upaflight the centralAsian countries,youcanusually If youwanttoflyto/fromTurkey from anyof Middle East&Asia (Northern Nicosia). İ are usuallycheaper atthebeginning andend Or youcould lookintocharter which flights, EasyJetEuropean city(though flies direct). expect toflyTurkey withatransitin (Luton) and London. EasyJet fliesdirect London between between Turkish Airlinesusuallyhasdirect only flights UK£200 return), Dalaman,Ankaraand key. British Airlinesflies into offer direct LondonandTur- between flights British Airways,Turkish AirlinesandEasyJet UK &Ireland .co.nz) fares are alsoworthchecking. butSingapore AirlinesandQantas Zealand, NZ$1500/2400 oneway/return onAirNew Fares to New Zealand zmir andAnkaratoErcanairportatLefko stanbul andoverstanbul ninedestinationsinIndia, stanbul, withreturn Den- stanbul, between flights Flight Centre One of thecheapest waystoget between For mostcheap youcangenerally flights İ İ are recommended travel agencies. and stanbul forjust€450. stanbul stanbul–Tbilisi (Georgia) and stanbul–Tbilisi İ İ STA Travel stanbul (fromUK£200return)stanbul and İ stanbul from Auckland start at fromAucklandstart stanbul stanbul aslow€480,Singaporestanbul İ stanbul fromUK£80return.stanbul İ

stanbul andYerevan.stanbul Turkish ( %

( ( ( % % ( ( % % % 800-397 3342;www.expedia.com) ( 800-781 4040;www.statravel.com) 0870-163 0026;www.statravel.co.uk) 0870-190 0737;www.thomsonfly.com). % 888-872 8356;www.travelocity.com) ı 0845-058 5858;www.trailfinders.co.uk) –Bab al-Hawa–Bab borderbetween GETTING THERE&AWAY ••Land GETTING 01 6021904;www.usitworld.com) Just theFlight and İ stanbul Thom- crossing at Lesovo–Hamzabeyli, some25km see p172 . There newlyopened, isasecond, which isopen24hours daily. Formore details, accommodation are available atthiscrossing, foreign-exchange facilities,restaurants and theGreek–Turkishtween border posts.Petrol, to hitch aliftorhire ratherthanwalkbe- ataxi grad, some10kmfromtheborder. Youhave townon theBulgariansideisSvilen-closest Kap der crossingisthebusyKapitan–Andreevo/ BulgariaandTurkey.between Themainbor- Bulgaria. There are three bordercrossings train orbusfrommanypointsinEuropevia It’s fairlyeasytoget to Bulgaria &EasternEurope I of remote Borualan–Sadarak borderpost,east Azerbaijani enclave viathe of Nakhichevan change –see forabustoBaku p554 . otogar headingforTbilisi,where youcan departfromTrabzon’s At leasttwodailybuses Azerbaijan (Nakhichevan) for Yerevan –see p554 . departfromTrabzon’s otogarheading weekly travel bybusviaGeorgia. Atleastthree buses nia (orviceversa) youcanfly(see opposite ) or lomatic interests in Turkey). (the RussianembassyhandlesArmeniandip- could alwayschange soit’sworthchecking totravellers.border wasclosed Thesituation At thetimeof writing,theTurkish– Armenian Armenia following. therelevant countryheadingsings, see tedious process. which isa must beputunderacustomsseal, Turkey andreturn tocollectitlater, thecar of thecar!Ifyouwanttoleave yourcarin customs dutyequaltothefullretail value overstay yourpermit,youmayhave topay again before thesixmonths isup.Ifyou up tosixmonths, butbesure totake itout documents are required toimportacarfor Nospecial should befairlystraightforward. Baku. Karabakh toreach therest of Azerbaijan and to flyacross Armenian-occupiedNagorno- You canalsocrossfromTurkey to the If youwanttotravel fromTurkey toArme- For more oneach country’sbordercross- Crossing theborder withyourownvehicle ğ ı kule, 18kmwestof EdirneontheE5.The d ı r (see r (see p586 ). Fromthere you’llneed İ stanbul bydirectstanbul

673 TRANSPORT TRANSPORT TRANSPORT departures for Skopje, Macedonia (€30,14hours) forSkopje, Macedonia departures Drina Trans Drina from serves in Romania. Thefollowing companiesrun Macedonia, andBucharest andtoConstanta departures toSkopje,Tetovo andGostivarin There are alsodaily companies offer services. Bulgaria from citiesofand thecoastal Varna andBurgas in There are departures several dailytoSofia, BUS south of Burgas. some 70kmnortheastof Edirneand92km third crossingisatMalko Târnovo–K Andreevo/Kap ing thebusysummermonths thanKapitan- north of Edirne;it’saquieter optiondur- 674 to get toandthere’s nopublictransport.The important pages of your passport. Youmustpayanon-refundable applicationfee pagesofyourpassport. of€40andimportant consulates are located in All would-bevisitorsto Iran needtogetavisainadvance. There and isanembassyinAnkara Iran up tothree monthswithoutavisa. Nationals ofAustralia, Canada, allEUcountries,NewZealand andtheUSAcanenter Greece for Greece for onemonthcost€8.Seewww.mfa.gov.ge forthelatest information. USA) canobtaina90-daytouristvisauponarrivalatanyGeorgian border. visasvalid Single-entry Most nationalities (includingAustralia, Canada, Israel,Japan,Switzerland, EUcountriesandthe Georgia able togeta90-dayvisa. can obtainafree 30-daytouristvisaatanyBulgarianborder. Citizens ofotherEUcountriesare Currently citizens ofAustralia, Canada, Ireland, Israel,Japan,NewZealand, theUKandUSA Bulgaria us knowyourwackyadventures visa. ingettinganAzerbaijani only €31(valid15days),withtwophotos,andhavingtheirvisaissuedinthree days. Pleaselet go figure! Wehave alsoheardofEuropean travellers paying applyingattheconsulate inKars, for€31(validthreeof invitation.Ifyouarrive months)– byairyoucangetavisaattheairport nationalities mustgetavisapriortoarrivalcosting€63fortwomonthsandcoupledwithletter Syria,thevisaconditionsfor Like most canbealittletrickytopindown.Officially Azerbaijan Azerbaijan on theborder;ifyouwanttostaylongeryou’llneedaletter ofinvitation. transitvisasforUS$18.Youcanusuallygetyourvisaextended to35days21 days)orthree-day Most nationalitiescan forUS$30(valid getvisasuponarrivalattheborders(andairport) Armenia VISAS FORNEIGHBOURINGCOUNTRIES ETN HR WY • ad THERE&AWAY ••Land GETTING ( % İ stanbul’s otogar.stanbul’s 0212-658 1851; ticket office88)Daily 0212-658 1851; ticket İ ı kule, buttakes alittlelonger stanbul’s otogar–atleastsix stanbul’s İ stanbul andErzurum.Youwillneedtwophotosacopyofthemost ı r ı kkale, (€35; eighthours),Romania. forConstanta(€35;eighthours) andBucharest departures (Serbia). (Serbia). wards to Sofia (Bulgaria) andontoBelgrade (Bulgaria) from where you cantravel on- the and Budapest(Hungary). Youcanalsocatch travel onwardsbytrain toChi The TRAIN Özlem (€32,14hours). Macedonia (€17,ninehours)andSkopje, forSofia,Bulgaria departures Öz Batu Turizm Metro nine hours),Varna andBurgasinBulgaria. toSofia(€20, office107)Dailydepartures .com.tr; ticket and runstoBucsharest, fromwhere youcan Bosphorus Express Bosphorus Express ( % ( % 0212-658 1344; ticket office97)Daily 0212-658 1344;ticket 0212-658 0255; ticket office149)Daily 0212-658 0255;ticket ( % 0212-658 3232;www.metroturizm asfarDimitrovgrad leaves lonelyplanet.com ş in İ stanbul daily stanbul ă u (Moldova) lonelyplanet.com lone women may be best taking an alternativelone women maybebesttaking assment, especially of women,attheborder, so about twohours. We’ve heardstoriesof har- get –theholduptakes yourpassportstamped toleavemorning andyou need thetrainto border crossingisintheearlyhours of the trains. Note alsothattheTurkey–Bulgaria drinks asthere are norestaurant cars onthese are transferred. thereB, though willbesomedelay as carriages Don’t worry;bookingsare simplyfromAto pending onwhere you’re heading.Confused? trains ateitherBucharest orDimitrovgrad, de- Chi andto to Budapest,Sofia andBelgrade, carriagesseparate forpassengers heading İ stanbul withalineofstanbul carriages. There are You’ll need totake yourownfoodand You’ll need the Essentially for thecountryyouare travelling toafter Iran.Womenmustbewearing and jewellery,brave coloursotherthanblack(althoughnever red). the rulesforwhichare more relaxed nowadays sothatyoucanshowyourfringe,wearmake-up hour, allowingyoutoreturn toDo Although youwillneedtotravel backtoErzurum,inmostcasesthevisacanbearrangedone a visabefore arrivinginDo straightaway.Ifyouhaven’tpopular either,buttheDutchcanoften arranged getthemvirtually a dayorso,othersweeks. Visas are notusuallygranted toAmericans,andtheBritisharen’t too then waitatleast10daystohearwhetheryourapplicationhasbeengranted. Somepeoplewait visa ifyouhave Israelistampsinyourpassport. foreigners alsoneedaletter ofrecommendation fromtheirembassy.Youwillnotbegranted a depending onthenationality,ranging fromA$41forAustralians to£32forUKcitizens. Most apply in your home country, although you can get visas in Ankara or apply inyourhomecountry,althoughyoucangetvisasAnkara have It’sbesttoplayitsafe gotvisasattheborder,butmanyhave back. and beenknocked foreigners wantingtoenter Syrianeedavisa,andmostmustgetitinadvance. Sometravellers Getting avisato Syria canbetaxingastherulesseemchangeable. At thetimeofwritingall Syria one photographand€95foravisatobeissuedthesameday. The Russian consulate inTrabzonwillrefer youtoBurcuTurizm door. next virtually Youwillneed Russia aprocedureficial stampapieceofpaperinstead withwhichtheyare ofyourpassport, familiar. only reject astampfromtheTRNC, stampedyoumaylaterthe TRNCandhave bedeniedentrytoGreece. yourpassport The Greeks will administered RepublicofCyprus(inthesouth)andTRNCremain chilly.Also,ifyouenter ning tovisitGreece ortheGreek islands, remember thatrelations betweentheGreek Cypriot– Visas fortheTurkish Republicof are availableonarrival.Ifyou’re plan- Cyprus(TRNC) Northern CyprusNorthern ş inãu. Thecarriages are switched tolocal GETTING THERE&AWAY ••Land GETTING Bosphorus Express ğ ubayaz not ğ ı t youcanorganise onethroughtheconsulate inErzurum. ubayaz astampfromTurkey proper,sohave theTurkish Cypriotof- leaves ı t the same day. You may be asked toshowavisat thesameday.Youmaybeasked office 10) the otogarin for Tbilisi – see for Tbilisi –see p554 . depart fromTrabzon’s otogar heading buses takes around26hours. Atleasttwodaily want todouble-check it’sopenatall. inwinter from 8amto8pm,though youmight ing isopen24hours aday;Türkgözü isopen (Georgia). TheSarpbordercross- Akhaltsikhe north of Kars (Turkey) and southwest of at theTürkgözübordercrossingnear Posof, ( Batum Georgia). Youcanalsocrossinland Hopa(Turkey) coast,between and Black Sea The mainbordercrossingisatSarponthe Georgia option. the safest andmostcomfortable route. Travelling cars inthesleeper isalways Gökta runsdirect Tiflis between buses and ş Ardahan Ardahan İ stanbul for €43.Thejourney stanbul ( % İ stanbul. Visa costsvary in hijab İ stabul 0212-658 3476; ticket stabul 0212-6583476;ticket (full bodycover),

675 TRANSPORT TRANSPORT TRANSPORT departures for Skopje, Macedonia (€30,14hours) forSkopje, Macedonia departures Drina Trans Drina from serves in Romania. Thefollowing companiesrun Macedonia, andBucharest andtoConstanta departures toSkopje,Tetovo andGostivarin There are alsodaily companies offer services. Bulgaria from citiesofand thecoastal Varna andBurgas in There are departures several dailytoSofia, BUS south of Burgas. some 70kmnortheastof Edirneand92km third crossingisatMalko Târnovo–K Andreevo/Kap ing thebusysummermonths thanKapitan- north of Edirne;it’saquieter optiondur- 674 to get toandthere’s nopublictransport.The important pages of your passport. Youmustpayanon-refundable applicationfee pagesofyourpassport. of€40andimportant consulates are located in All would-bevisitorsto Iran needtogetavisainadvance. There and isanembassyinAnkara Iran up tothree monthswithoutavisa. Nationals ofAustralia, Canada, allEUcountries,NewZealand andtheUSAcanenter Greece for Greece for onemonthcost€8.Seewww.mfa.gov.ge forthelatest information. USA) canobtaina90-daytouristvisauponarrivalatanyGeorgian border. visasvalid Single-entry Most nationalities (includingAustralia, Canada, Israel,Japan,Switzerland, EUcountriesandthe Georgia able togeta90-dayvisa. can obtainafree 30-daytouristvisaatanyBulgarianborder. Citizens ofotherEUcountriesare Currently citizens ofAustralia, Canada, Ireland, Israel,Japan,NewZealand, theUKandUSA Bulgaria us knowyourwackyadventures visa. ingettinganAzerbaijani only €31(valid15days),withtwophotos,andhavingtheirvisaissuedinthree days. Pleaselet go figure! Wehave alsoheardofEuropean travellers paying applyingattheconsulate inKars, for€31(validthreeof invitation.Ifyouarrive months)– byairyoucangetavisaattheairport nationalities mustgetavisapriortoarrivalcosting€63fortwomonthsandcoupledwithletter Syria,thevisaconditionsfor Like most canbealittletrickytopindown.Officially Azerbaijan Azerbaijan on theborder;ifyouwanttostaylongeryou’llneedaletter ofinvitation. transitvisasforUS$18.Youcanusuallygetyourvisaextended to35days21 days)orthree-day Most nationalitiescan forUS$30(valid getvisasuponarrivalattheborders(andairport) Armenia VISAS FORNEIGHBOURINGCOUNTRIES ETN HR WY • ad THERE&AWAY ••Land GETTING ( % İ stanbul’s otogar.stanbul’s 0212-658 1851; ticket office88)Daily 0212-658 1851; ticket İ ı kule, buttakes alittlelonger stanbul’s otogar–atleastsix stanbul’s İ stanbul andErzurum.Youwillneedtwophotosacopyofthemost ı r ı kkale, (€35; eighthours),Romania. forConstanta(€35;eighthours) andBucharest departures (Serbia). (Serbia). wards to Sofia (Bulgaria) andontoBelgrade (Bulgaria) from where you cantravel on- the and Budapest(Hungary). Youcanalsocatch travel onwardsbytrain toChi The TRAIN Özlem (€32,14hours). Macedonia (€17,ninehours)andSkopje, forSofia,Bulgaria departures Öz Batu Turizm Metro nine hours),Varna andBurgasinBulgaria. toSofia(€20, office107)Dailydepartures .com.tr; ticket and runstoBucsharest, fromwhere youcan Bosphorus Express Bosphorus Express ( % ( % 0212-658 1344; ticket office97)Daily 0212-658 1344;ticket 0212-658 0255; ticket office149)Daily 0212-658 0255;ticket ( % 0212-658 3232;www.metroturizm asfarDimitrovgrad leaves lonelyplanet.com ş in İ stanbul daily stanbul ă u (Moldova) lonelyplanet.com lone women may be best taking an alternativelone women maybebesttaking assment, especially of women,attheborder, so about twohours. We’ve heardstoriesof har- get –theholduptakes yourpassportstamped toleavemorning andyou need thetrainto border crossingisintheearlyhours of the trains. Note alsothattheTurkey–Bulgaria drinks asthere are norestaurant cars onthese are transferred. thereB, though willbesomedelay as carriages Don’t worry;bookingsare simplyfromAto pending onwhere you’re heading.Confused? trains ateitherBucharest orDimitrovgrad, de- Chi andto to Budapest,Sofia andBelgrade, carriagesseparate forpassengers heading İ stanbul withalineofstanbul carriages. There are You’ll need totake yourownfoodand You’ll need the Essentially and jewellery,brave coloursotherthanblack(althoughnever red). the rulesforwhichare more relaxed nowadays sothatyoucanshowyourfringe,wearmake-up for thecountryyouare travelling toafter Iran.Womenmustbewearing hour, allowingyoutoreturn toDo Although youwillneedtotravel backtoErzurum,inmostcasesthevisacanbearrangedone a visabefore arrivinginDo straightaway.Ifyouhaven’tpopular either,buttheDutchcanoften arranged getthemvirtually a dayorso,othersweeks. Visas are notusuallygranted toAmericans,andtheBritisharen’t too then waitatleast10daystohearwhetheryourapplicationhasbeengranted. Somepeoplewait visa ifyouhave Israelistampsinyourpassport. foreigners alsoneedaletter ofrecommendation fromtheirembassy.Youwillnotbegranted a depending onthenationality,ranging fromA$41forAustralians to£32forUKcitizens. Most or apply inyourhomecountry,althoughyoucangetvisasAnkara have It’sbesttoplayitsafe gotvisasattheborder,butmanyhave back. and beenknocked foreigners wantingtoenter Syrianeedavisa,andmostmustgetitinadvance. Sometravellers Getting avisato Syria canbetaxingastherulesseemchangeable. At thetimeofwritingall Syria one photographand€95foravisatobeissuedthesameday. The Russian consulate inTrabzonwillrefer youtoBurcuTurizm door. next virtually Youwillneed Russia aprocedureficial stampapieceofpaperinstead withwhichtheyare ofyourpassport, familiar. only reject astampfromtheTRNC, stampedyoumaylaterthe TRNCandhave bedeniedentrytoGreece. yourpassport The Greeks will administered RepublicofCyprus(inthesouth)andTRNCremain chilly.Also,ifyouenter ning tovisitGreece ortheGreek islands, remember thatrelations betweentheGreek Cypriot– Visas fortheTurkish Republicof are availableonarrival.Ifyou’re plan- Cyprus(TRNC) Northern CyprusNorthern ş inãu. Thecarriages are switched tolocal GETTING THERE&AWAY ••Land GETTING Bosphorus Express ğ ubayaz not ğ ı t youcanorganise onethroughtheconsulate inErzurum. ubayaz astampfromTurkey proper,sohave theTurkish Cypriotof- leaves ı t the same day. You may be asked toshowavisat thesameday.Youmaybeasked office 10) the otogarin for Tbilisi – see for Tbilisi –see p554 . depart fromTrabzon’s otogar heading buses takes around26hours. Atleasttwodaily want todouble-check it’sopenatall. inwinter from 8amto8pm,though youmight ing isopen24hours aday;Türkgözü isopen (Georgia). TheSarpbordercross- Akhaltsikhe north of Kars (Turkey) and southwest of at theTürkgözübordercrossingnear Posof, ( Batum Georgia). Youcanalsocrossinland Hopa(Turkey) coast,between and Black Sea The mainbordercrossingisatSarponthe Georgia option. the safest andmostcomfortable route. Travelling cars inthesleeper isalways Gökta runsdirect Tiflis between buses and ş Ardahan Ardahan İ stanbul for €43.Thejourney stanbul ( % İ stanbul. Visa costsvary in hijab İ stabul 0212-658 3476; ticket stabul 0212-6583476;ticket (full bodycover),

675 TRANSPORT TRANSPORT TRANSPORT from theTurkishside,aconvenient starting road goes to themostconvenient crossing road goes opposite ). (see Western Europeconsiderably, butataprice and Greece can shorten driving timefrom to Ankara. Using thecarferries fromItaly toEdirneand the Balkans makesThe E80highway itswaythrough CAR &MOTORCYCLE hours). Vienna €105(36hours), andAthens €68(20 furt €130(45hours), Munich €110(42hours), Sample one-wayfares to operate bigMercedes routes. onthese buses izm 1888 inTurkey; www.ulusoy.com.tr) to Bus services BUS and cross toKipi. take abusfromEdirnetoKe there are better connections.Alternatively, Kastanies southtoAlexandroupolis,where to catch oneof thefew from trainsorbuses do soassoonafter 9amaspossibleinorder İ in bus station From there youcanget (€8.50)tothe ataxi der pointof Kipi,thenhitch totheborder. ice fromAlexandroupolistotheGreek bor- hours. ish cityof Edirne. Bothborders are open24 Pazarkule, 139kmnortheast,neartheTurk- northeast of Alexandroupolis,or Kastanies– lis in Greece andcrossatKipi– Europe istomake yourwaytoAlexandroupo- An alternative togetting toTurkey from Greece &WesternEurope hours).take uptoseven where regular headtoTbilisi(which buses can (€15;twohours), from town of Akhaltsikhe hire totake youtotheGeorgian anothertaxi the borderpost(16km,€20).Fromborder, first, thenhire orminibustotake youto ataxi point isKars ( p585 toget). Youneed toPosof 676 best Turkishcompanies– tocatchneed aconnectingbus.Twoof the travelling fromotherEuropeancities,you’d AustriaandGreece,many, Italy, soifyou’re stanbul. stanbul. From Alexandroupolis inGreece, themain If you’re crossingfromTurkey intoGreece, To crossatKipi– If you’re headingtotheTürkgözüborder

( % ETN HR WY • ad THERE&AWAY ••Land GETTING 0212-658 0270inTurkey; www.varan.com.tr) İ İ psala andanonwardbusto psala stanbul runonlyfromGer-stanbul İ psala take abusserv- psala İ stanbul are:stanbul Frank- İ Ulusoy stanbul, thenon stanbul, ş and an, thento İ psala, 43km psala,

( % Varan Tur- 0212-444 İ psala psala – .tcdd.gov.tr) ing, southeastof Van (Turkey). Gürbulak– ( bordercross- Iran); andtheEsendere–Sero near Do and Turkey, thebusierGürbulak–Bazargan, There are Iran twobordercrossingsbetween Iran (www.ose.gr) the websites of but notonline. Formore informationsee from Athens. take aconnectingGreek Intercity trainto/ or€68for2nd-classifyou and Thessaloniki; rates are €48for2nd-class between cars.conditioned sleeper Good-value one-way border, andaccommodationisincomfy,air- hours, includinganhourortwo’sdelayatthe Dostluk Express and Thessaloniki and Turkey istheovernight train between Europe; see p673 . inGreece) those youwillcomeviaEastern From Western Europeancities(apartfrom TRAIN the Aegean. İ (Kipi– onward buses toTabriz;onward buses there are fromSero take upto an hour. FromBazargan there are walking acrossthe border. Thecrossingmight A hours). FromAnkara,theyleave fromthe office147) ticket otogar, try Ankara toTabriz andTehran. From There are regular from buses BUS p642 fordeparture information. Vantween (Turkey) andOrumiyeh (Iran).See things easy,there isadirect busrunningbe- ery of farSoutheastern Anatolia. Andtomake of thebreathtaking youthrough scen- taking crossing intoIran,which hastheadded bonus Travellers are increasingly usingthissecond check inwinterbeclosed. asthebordermight butdouble- open from8amuntilmidnight, Bazargan is isopen24hours. Esendere–Sero dolmu border atGürbulak, forabout €2,and then stanbul orsouthtoGallipoli,Çanakkaleand stanbul Ş You canbuytickets atthetrainstations The bestoptiontravelling Greece between You may also want to consider taking a You mayalsowanttoconsidertaking T İ busterminal. ş İ psala) thentoKepsala) fromDo orthe ğ . ubayaz Best Van Tur with dailydepartures (€55,35 Turkish State Railways State Turkish . Thejourneytakes 12to14 Hellenic Railways Organisation Hellenic Railways ğ ı t (Turkey) and ubayaz İ stanbul calledthe stanbul

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The TRAIN Iran fromVan. toOrumiyeh. to Youcancatchbuses buses lonelyplanet.com 75km east of Mardin ( p630 ). ( p606 border ) and theNusaybin–Qamishle Akçakale border, 54kmsouthof Kilis, 65kmsouth of Gaziantep ( p598 ), the Damascus ( Aleppo (Halab; €3,fourhours, 105km)and inTurkeyAntakya withtheSyriancitiesof and therefore link thebusiest.Dailybuses al-HawaBab isbyfarthe mostconvenient, and Turkey, buttheborderatReyhanl There are Syria borderpostsbetween eight Syria into Iraq. Check thelocalsituationbefore crossing Iraqiadventures. intoTonyWheeler’s peep carry patrioticKurdish items. See p631 fora your bagswillprobably –don’t besearched fee. Travelling acrosstheborderintoTurkey ing toget ahealthcertificate foranominal ontheIraqiside,aswellhav-(not avisa) and beinggiven entrystamp aweek-long copy of theirpassportattheTurkish side, US$30. Zakho costsaround€20,fromCizre to to Zakho fromSilopi you can’twalkacrossit.Ataxi no townorvillage atthebordercrossingand est towntotheborderonIraqiside. There’s istheclos- lopi, ontheTurkishside;Zakho borderpost.It’snearCizreal-Khalil andSi- ling intonorthernIraqviatheHabur–Ibrahim handful of hardytravellers have travel- been travelling a towiderIraqisatalladvisable, weobviously don’tsuggestAlthough that Iraq www.tcdd.gov.tr formore information. the Turkishcitiesof Van andMalatya. See ran (Iran)andDamascus,runningthrough (www.rajatrains.com) site, Iranian Railways Van,ride acrossLake the andnoshowers. See connecting Turkish andIraniantrains,aferry and Tatvan. journeyon acomfortable Expect ran and Other popularcrossings toSyriaincludevia Yaylada isthe borderpostat toAntakya Also close There’s a weekly train service between Teh- between There’s trainservice aweekly Travellers report having togive aphoto- Trans-Asya Ekspresi ğ ı İ . For both these crossings see crossingssee . Forboththese p437 . stanbul, travellingstanbul, viaTabriz, Van Ş am; €5.50, eight hours,am; €5.50,eight 465km). GETTING THERE&AWAY ••Sea GETTING , formore information. RAJA Passenger TrainCo RAJA runs between Teh- runsbetween Ş anl ı urfa ı –

daily service leaving daily service and arrivinginDamascus(€27)at3amthe at 1.30pmdaily. on these services, see see services, on these p239 . BrindisiandÇe tween Finally, you cantravel Mersin between and with can alsotravel Alanya andGirne between ler.com.tr) northern Cyprus. Cyprus andTurkey Ta isbetween northern The maincrossingpointbetween Northern Cyprus Turkish) Çe withconnect BrindisiandAnconainItaly Lines Marmara Italy Turkey. theGreek between islandsand the services inwinter.week Thetable, p678 , summarises spring andautumn,perhaps justoncea in timesaweek ally dailyinsummer,several are usu- by airorboattoAthens.Services the Greek islands,which are inturnlinked Private ferries linkTurkey’s Aegean coastand Greece ferry travel intheregion. pointforinformationabout is agoodstarting over theBlackSea. to TurkishGreek ports,butnot portsandseveral ferry Car and operate Italian between services SEA www.tcdd.gov.tr formore information. the Turkishcitiesof Van andMalatya. See ran (Iran)andDamascus,runningthrough Aleppo andDamascusdaily. restaurant car. trainslink comfortable Several Bring yourownfoodanddrinksasthere isno thetable, –see timetables) p157 , fordetails. intheofficial the waytoDamascusasitsays runs between office10) otogar ticket next morning. Silifke) andGirneonthenortherncoastof İ Turizm stanbul toAleppoorDamascus. stanbul The very comfortable There’s a weekly train service between Teh- between There’s trainservice aweekly İ ş stanbul. Therestanbul. are alsoahandfulof routes It’s possibletobuybustickets direct from me. Fergün Denizcilik also operates ferries twice-weekly be- (

% makes this journey – see makes thisjourney–see p418 . You Turkish Maritime Lines Maritime Turkish 0212-658 3911; otogar ticket office23) 0212-658 3911;otogarticket İ

stanbul andAleppo(and stanbul (www.marmaralines.com) Urfa Seyahat Urfa hasdepartures forAleppo Akgünler Denizcilik Akgünler (www.fergun.net) Ferrylines

İ stanbul otogarat6am stanbul ş me. Formore details Toros Express

(www.ferrylines.com) ( % (www.tdi.com.tr in – see –see p414 ). 0212-444 6363; ş (www.akgun

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all TRANSPORT TRANSPORT TRANSPORT from theTurkishside,aconvenient starting road goes to themostconvenient crossing road goes opposite ). (see Western Europeconsiderably, butataprice and Greece can shorten driving timefrom to Ankara. Using thecarferries fromItaly toEdirneand the Balkans makesThe E80highway itswaythrough CAR &MOTORCYCLE hours). Vienna €105(36hours), andAthens €68(20 furt €130(45hours), Munich €110(42hours), Sample one-wayfares to operate bigMercedes routes. onthese buses izm 1888 inTurkey; www.ulusoy.com.tr) to Bus services BUS and cross toKipi. take abusfromEdirnetoKe there are better connections.Alternatively, Kastanies southtoAlexandroupolis,where to catch oneof thefew from trainsorbuses do soassoonafter 9amaspossibleinorder İ in bus station From there youcanget (€8.50)tothe ataxi der pointof Kipi,thenhitch totheborder. ice fromAlexandroupolistotheGreek bor- hours. ish cityof Edirne. Bothborders are open24 Pazarkule, 139kmnortheast,neartheTurk- northeast of Alexandroupolis,or Kastanies– lis in Greece andcrossatKipi– Europe istomake yourwaytoAlexandroupo- An alternative togetting toTurkey from Greece &WesternEurope hours).take uptoseven where regular headtoTbilisi(which buses can (€15;twohours), from town of Akhaltsikhe hire totake youtotheGeorgian anothertaxi the borderpost(16km,€20).Fromborder, first, thenhire orminibustotake youto ataxi point isKars ( p585 toget). Youneed toPosof 676 best Turkishcompanies– tocatchneed aconnectingbus.Twoof the travelling fromotherEuropeancities,you’d AustriaandGreece,many, Italy, soifyou’re stanbul. stanbul. If you’re crossingfromTurkey intoGreece, To crossatKipi– If you’re headingtotheTürkgözüborder From Alexandroupolis inGreece, themain

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Other popularcrossings toSyriaincludevia The TRAIN Iran fromVan. toOrumiyeh. to Youcancatchbuses buses lonelyplanet.com 75km east of Mardin ( p630 ). ( p606 border ) andthe Nusaybin–Qamishle Akçakale border, 54kmsouthof Kilis, 65kmsouth of Gaziantep ( p598 ), the Yaylada isthe borderpostat toAntakya Also close Damascus ( Aleppo (Halab; €3,fourhours, 105km)and inTurkeyAntakya withtheSyriancitiesof and therefore link thebusiest.Dailybuses al-HawaBab isbyfarthe mostconvenient, and Turkey, buttheborderatReyhanl There are Syria borderpostsbetween eight Syria into Iraq. Check thelocalsituationbefore crossing Iraqiadventures. intoTonyWheeler’s peep carry patrioticKurdish items. See p631 fora your bagswillprobably –don’t besearched fee. Travelling acrosstheborderintoTurkey ing toget ahealthcertificate foranominal ontheIraqiside,aswellhav-(not avisa) and beinggiven entrystamp aweek-long copy of theirpassportattheTurkish side, US$30. Zakho costsaround€20,fromCizre to to Zakho fromSilopi you can’twalkacrossit.Ataxi no townorvillage atthebordercrossingand est towntotheborderonIraqiside. There’s istheclos- lopi, ontheTurkishside;Zakho borderpost.It’snearCizreal-Khalil andSi- ling intonorthernIraqviatheHabur–Ibrahim handful of hardytravellers have travel- been travelling a towiderIraqisatalladvisable, weobviously don’tsuggestAlthough that Iraq www.tcdd.gov.tr formore information. the Turkishcitiesof Van andMalatya. See ran (Iran)andDamascus,runningthrough (www.rajatrains.com) site, Iranian Railways Van,ride acrossLake the andnoshowers. See connecting Turkish andIraniantrains,aferry and Tatvan. journeyon acomfortable Expect ran and There’s a weekly train service between Teh- between There’s trainservice aweekly Travellers report having togive aphoto- Trans-Asya Ekspresi ğ ı İ . For both these crossings see crossingssee . Forboththese p437 . stanbul, travellingstanbul, viaTabriz, Van Ş am; €5.50, eight hours,am; €5.50,eight 465km). GETTING THERE&AWAY ••Sea GETTING , formore information. RAJA Passenger TrainCo RAJA runs between Teh- runsbetween Ş anl ı urfa ı –

and arrivinginDamascus(€27)at3amthe leaving daily service at 1.30pmdaily. tween BrindisiandÇe tween on these services, see see services, on these p239 . Finally, you cantravel Mersin between and with can alsotravel Alanya andGirne between ler.com.tr) northern Cyprus. Silifke) andGirneonthenortherncoastof Cyprus andTurkey Ta isbetween northern The maincrossingpointbetween Northern Cyprus Turkish) Çe withconnect BrindisiandAnconainItaly Lines Marmara Italy Turkey. theGreek between islandsand the services inwinter.week Thetable, p678 , summarises spring andautumn,perhaps justoncea in timesaweek ally dailyinsummer,several are usu- by airorboattoAthens.Services the Greek islands,which are inturnlinked Private ferries linkTurkey’s Aegean coastand Greece ferry travel intheregion. pointforinformationabout is agoodstarting over theBlackSea. to TurkishGreek ports,butnot portsandseveral ferry Car and operate Italian between services SEA www.tcdd.gov.tr formore information. the Turkishcitiesof Van andMalatya. See ran (Iran)andDamascus,runningthrough Aleppo andDamascusdaily. restaurant car. trainslink comfortable Several Bring yourownfoodanddrinksasthere isno thetable, –see timetables) p157 , fordetails. intheofficial the waytoDamascusasitsays runs between office10) otogar ticket next morning. İ Turizm stanbul toAleppoorDamascus. stanbul The very comfortable There’s a weekly train service between Teh- between There’s trainservice aweekly İ ş stanbul. Therestanbul. are alsoahandfulof routes It’s possibletobuybustickets direct from me. Fergün Denizcilik also operates ferries twice-weekly be- (

% makes this journey – see makes thisjourney–see p418 . You Turkish Maritime Lines Maritime Turkish 0212-658 3911; otogar ticket office23) 0212-658 3911;otogarticket İ

stanbul andAleppo(and stanbul (www.marmaralines.com) Urfa Seyahat Urfa hasdepartures forAleppo Akgünler Denizcilik Akgünler (www.fergun.net) Ferrylines

İ stanbul otogarat6am stanbul ş me. Formore details Toros Express

(www.ferrylines.com) ( % (www.tdi.com.tr in – see –see p414 ). 0212-444 6363; ş (www.akgun

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all TRANSPORT TRANSPORT TRANSPORT and private culturalandhistorytours. and private group US-based companyoffering www.boraozkok.com) tours ofwesternTurkey. combinedbike US-based companyoffering and sailing Cultural Folk ToursofTurkey Cultural Backroads good reports. tripstoTurkeyies whose generally receive The followingare international tour compan- TOURS www.aroundcrimea.com. 064 formore informationoremailthefolkat and Yalta too. Ring Saturday). Ferries travel between on Thursday at10pm(arriving8am nights luxury double. Departures from bed room,or€400perperson inaprivate day) for€120perperson inashared three- 6pm Sunday(arrivingat astopol and and Odessa between the BlackSea crossing service odd hour(each way)weekly UKR Ferry Ukraine more details. in Russia three see timesaweek; p553 for Ferries travel Trabzon andSochi between Russia ( Northern Cyprus,with Gazima 678 from €105perperson (oneway). % Another weekly service runs between Sev- runsbetween service Another weekly aç-hds&Sm StMySpadglt (yrfi)€57 ( p344 ) (hydrofoil)€35/70 andgület SatMay-Sep Ka &Simi Datça-Rhodes (ferry) €25/25 same-day, (ferry) €25/25same-day, ( p280 ) €100openreturn €50/60same-day, ( p280 ) dailyJun-Sep (hydrofoil)€60openreturn, Çe three dailyMay-Oct; Bodrum-Rhodes Bodrum-Kos Route Frequency Fare (one way/return) More details More Fare (oneway/return) Frequency Ayval Route TURKEY&GREECEFERRIES BETWEEN 231 2688, 237 0726 in Mersin) – 231 2688,2370726inMersin) pndmn (gület)€50 upondemand twiceaweek Jun-Sep; in winter €50openreturn €30/35same-day timesaweekNov-Apr twiceaweekOct-May ş ş ETN RUD AROUND GETTING eCis ietmsawe 2/0sm a,€0oe eun ( p239 ) €25/40sameday,€50 openreturn fivetimesaweek me-Chios Kselrz (es diy 3 rtr (p375) return €35 daily (Meis) -Kastellorizo ı -evs al JnSp €05 (p217) €40/50 Jun-Sep; daily k-Lesvos ğ

(www.ukrferry.com) usa (Famagusta)usa ontheeastcoastof ( % İ stanbul, departing Sevastopol at departingSevastopol stanbul, 1800 4622848;www.backroads.com) % has a comfortable 36- hasacomfortable in Ukraine0654-323 Turkish Maritime Lines Maritime Turkish İ ( stanbul 8amTues- stanbul % e p425). see 1800 9358875; İ stanbul arestanbul İ stanbul İ stanbul stanbul

others. philosophy ofindependenttravel,butprefer totravelwith the good-valuetoursfortravellerswholike small-group, of .com.au) Australia-basedcompanywithavariety ‘Seven churches of Asia Minor’ etc. churchesofAsiaMinor’ ‘Seven heritage, special-interest tourssuchasculinary,Jewish generaltoursaswell US-based companyoffering Intrepid Travel Intrepid Traveller Imaginative including Lyciancruisesand tours. kayaking adventure awiderangeoftours companyoffering Exodus affordable. themanydomestic airlineskeeps ticketstween a large country,andfiercecompetition be- finally, flyingisan excellentoptionforsuch lar choice asimprovements are made. And routes, andbecominganincreasingly popu- ona fewThe railwaynetworkisuseful major at allhours andwithvery reasonable prices. with moderncoaches crossingthecountry city bussystem isasgoodanyyou’llfind, transportsystem. Turkey’saffordable inter- from Turkey about howtorunaneffective and Many countriescouldlearnathingortwo GETTING AROUND tour operators. See p684 of fordetails someTurkey-based Pasha Tours through Turkey. ofoverlandadventures Anzac Daytoursandavariety .imaginative-traveller.com) UK-based companyoffering ( % ( 870-240 5550;www.exodus.co.uk) UK-based % ( % 800 722 4288; www.pachatours.com) 800 7224288;www.pachatours.com) 03-9473 2626;www.intrepidtravel ( % 0800 3162717;www lonelyplanet.com book and pay for tickets online. One-way fares from€38. online.One-way book andpayfortickets Airlines providesthemaindomesticnetwork,andyoucan % offer thecheapestrates. network, mainlywithflightsto/from Turkish Airlinessubsidiary. from DalamantoVan, goviathehubsof out thecountry.Many forinstance flights, Domestic airlines flytosome30citiesthrough- Airlines inTurkey AIR lonelyplanet.com growing network,withflightsfrom and Antalyatomanycitiesthroughoutthecountry. Bisiklet Caddesi 29,Sirkeci) Kemalettin ( in bike shopsin you canfindleading international brands at around€150,but decent modelsstarting The bestbike brandinTurkey with isBisan, elsewhere. need youthinkmight ever parts in possible. safe trip, plantoavoid mainroadswherever thebestchanceyourself of anenjoyable and Kangal dogs inyourstride. Togive sheep stone-throwing children, wolves andferocious hog drivers, rotten roadedges and,outeast, of locals,especiallyouteast.Take the road- andthecuriosityhospitality to yourself, archaeological sites, have which youmight all are scenery,theeasyaccessto thespectacular challenges grunt.Highlights andawholelotta is a wonderfuladventure, fullof surprises, Like bike touring anywhere, ridinginTurkey BICYCLE Airlines Turkish Airlines Sun Express Pegasus Airlines Onur Air Fly Air Atlasjet lowing airlines. couple of months ahead. convenient departure timesifyoubooka websites. You’ll get andmore cheaper seats coast andcentraleastern destinations. airlines offering direct west between flights İ between .com.tr) Goodnetworkandfares from€40to€80. % stanbul orAnkara.stanbul Atlasjetisoneof thefew You’ll beable tofindexcellent-qualityspare onmostairlines’You canbookflights Domestic flights areDomestic flights available withthefol- 0212-444 0849; www.thy.com) State-owned Turkish 0212-444 0849;www.thy.com)State-owned 0212-511 0654; www.pedalbisiklet.com in Turkish; Mimar 0212-511 0654;www.pedalbisiklet.com inTurkish; Mimar ( %

İ ( ( stanbul andNev % (Map p94-5; (Map % İ stanbul andAnkara,butbring what- stanbul 0212-444 4359;www.flyair.com.tr) Asmaller 0212-259 2279; www.deltabisiklet.com; Bosna 0216-444 3387;www.atlastjet.com)A (Map p94-5;TürkHavaYollar (Map (www.pegasusairlines.com) Flies GETTING AROUND••Air GETTING İ % stanbul such as stanbul (www.sunexpress.com.tr) A ş ehir. 0212-662 9797;www.onurair , orinAnkara at İ zmir, Bodrum, Dalaman zmir, Bodrum,Dalaman İ stanbul only,butcan Pedal Sportif ı , THY; Delta

can use foranominalfee.can use specialises insuper-deluxe dent status etc. However, this doesn’t always thisdoesn’t etc. However, dent status bargain themdown byclaimingpoverty, stu- companies,andsometimesyoucan between Bus fares are subjecttofiercecompetition Costs Varan Ulusoy Koç Kamil Boss Turizm extensive route networks. an districts orvillages. have Mostbusstations that followprescribed routes) tooutlying otogar often handlesdolmu kolonya plus liberalsprinklingsof theTurks’ beloved treated tosnacks andtea alongthejourney, well kept too,and you’llbe andcomfortable arewith thatintheirhomecountry.Thebuses on theexcellenceof thebussystem compared first-time traveller tothecountrycomments popular meansof transport.Virtuallyevery form Buses Turkey’s mostwidespread and BUS to Mudanya(forBursa). Band p287, (Yenikap Marmara. from There are services car speed of crossing theSea ferry services % İ Sea ofMarmaraFerries BOAT coast andCappadocia. bikes forshortridesintouristtownsalongthe charge forthespaceittakes up.Youcanhire of charge, will mini-andmidibuses although port yourbike byair,bus,trainorferry free mendations see p661 . Youcanusuallytrans- bookshops in Köy Türkiye YolAtlasi thecountry. partsthroughout can send bikes and ommended bytourers. Theyservice rec- andcome highly English-speaking staff Hersek Caddesi21,Emek) garaj generallytral busstation calledtheotogar, stanbul Fast Ferries These areThese some of thebestcompanies, with The bestmapfortouringbybike isthe Most Turkishcitiesandtownshave acen- 0212-444 4436;www.ido.com.tr) emanetçi or ( ( % % (lemoncologne). terminal ( ı % 444 8999,0212-5515000;www.varan.com.tr) ( terminal) toYalova (forBursa) 444 1888;www.ulusoy.com.tr) % ı rma (for (leftluggage) room,which you 444 0562; www.kamilkoc.com.tr in Turkish) inTurkish) 444 0562;www.kamilkoc.com.tr 444 0880; www.bossturizm.com in Turkish) inTurkish) 444 0880;www.bossturizm.com İ stanbul; forothermaprecom-stanbul; . Besides intercity buses, the intercity buses, . Besides

. Both these shopshave. Boththese İ ( stanbul-Ankara services. stanbul-Ankara İ stanbul Deniz Otobüsleri, stanbul DenizOtobüsleri, İ zmir) p202 , andathird, (€19)available in operates high- ş es (minibuses es (minibuses İ stanbul stanbul

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İ DO; TRANSPORT TRANSPORT TRANSPORT and private culturalandhistorytours. and private group US-based companyoffering www.boraozkok.com) tours ofwesternTurkey. combinedbike US-based companyoffering and sailing Cultural Folk ToursofTurkey Cultural Backroads good reports. tripstoTurkeyies whose generally receive The followingare international tour compan- TOURS www.aroundcrimea.com. 064 formore informationoremailthefolkat and Yalta too. Ring Saturday). Ferries travel between on Thursday at10pm(arriving8am nights luxury double. Departures from bed room,or€400perperson inaprivate day) for€120perperson inashared three- 6pm Sunday(arrivingat astopol and and Odessa between the BlackSea crossing service odd hour(each way)weekly UKR Ferry Ukraine more details. in Russia three see timesaweek; p553 for Ferries travel Trabzon andSochi between Russia ( Northern Cyprus,with Gazima 678 from €105perperson (oneway). % Another weekly service runs between Sev- runsbetween service Another weekly aç-hds&Sm StMySpadglt (yrfi)€57 ( p344 ) (hydrofoil)€35/70 andgület SatMay-Sep Ka &Simi Datça-Rhodes (ferry) €25/25 same-day, (ferry) €25/25same-day, ( p280 ) €100openreturn €50/60same-day, ( p280 ) dailyJun-Sep (hydrofoil)€60openreturn, Çe three dailyMay-Oct; Bodrum-Rhodes Bodrum-Kos Route Frequency Fare (one way/return) More details More Fare (oneway/return) Frequency Ayval Route TURKEY&GREECEFERRIES BETWEEN 231 2688, 237 0726 in Mersin) – 231 2688,2370726inMersin) pndmn (gület)€50 upondemand twiceaweek Jun-Sep; in winter €50openreturn €30/35same-day timesaweekNov-Apr twiceaweekOct-May ş ş ETN RUD AROUND GETTING eCis ietmsawe 2/0sm a,€0oe eun ( p239 ) €25/40sameday,€50 openreturn fivetimesaweek me-Chios Kselrz (es diy 3 rtr (p375) return €35 daily (Meis) -Kastellorizo ı -evs al JnSp €05 (p217) €40/50 Jun-Sep; daily k-Lesvos ğ

others. philosophy ofindependenttravel,butprefer totravelwith the good-valuetoursfortravellerswholike small-group, of .com.au) Australia-basedcompanywithavariety ‘Seven churches of Asia Minor’ etc. churchesofAsiaMinor’ ‘Seven heritage, special-interest tourssuchasculinary,Jewish generaltoursaswell US-based companyoffering Intrepid Travel Intrepid Traveller Imaginative including Lyciancruisesand tours. kayaking adventure awiderangeoftours companyoffering Exodus affordable. themanydomestic airlineskeeps ticketstween a large country,andfiercecompetition be- finally, flyingisan excellentoptionforsuch lar choice asimprovements are made. And routes, andbecominganincreasingly popu- ona fewThe railwaynetworkisuseful major at allhours andwithvery reasonable prices. with moderncoaches crossingthecountry city bussystem isasgoodanyyou’llfind, transportsystem. Turkey’saffordable inter- from Turkey about howtorunaneffective and Many countriescouldlearnathingortwo GETTING AROUND tour operators. See p684 of fordetails someTurkey-based Pasha Tours through Turkey. ofoverlandadventures Anzac Daytoursandavariety .imaginative-traveller.com) UK-based companyoffering ( % ( 870-240 5550;www.exodus.co.uk) UK-based % ( % 800 722 4288; www.pachatours.com) 800 7224288;www.pachatours.com) 03-9473 2626;www.intrepidtravel ( % 0800 3162717;www lonelyplanet.com book and pay for tickets online. One-way fares from€38. online.One-way book andpayfortickets Airlines providesthemaindomesticnetwork,andyoucan % Turkish Airlinessubsidiary. offer thecheapestrates. network, mainlywithflightsto/from from DalamantoVan, goviathehubsof out thecountry.Many forinstance flights, Domestic airlines flytosome30citiesthrough- Airlines inTurkey AIR lonelyplanet.com Bisiklet Caddesi 29,Sirkeci) Kemalettin ( in bike shopsin you canfindleading international brands at around€150,but decent modelsstarting The bestbike brandinTurkey with isBisan, elsewhere. need youthinkmight ever parts in possible. safe trip, plantoavoid mainroadswherever thebestchanceyourself of anenjoyable and Kangal dogs inyourstride. Togive sheep stone-throwing children, wolves andferocious hog drivers, rotten roadedges and,outeast, of locals,especiallyouteast.Take the road- andthecuriosityhospitality to yourself, archaeological sites, have which youmight all are scenery,theeasyaccessto thespectacular challenges grunt.Highlights andawholelotta is a wonderfuladventure, fullof surprises, Like bike touring anywhere, ridinginTurkey BICYCLE Airlines Turkish Airlines Sun Express Pegasus Airlines Onur Air Fly Air and Antalyatomanycitiesthroughoutthecountry. growing network,withflightsfrom Atlasjet lowing airlines. couple of months ahead. convenient departure timesifyoubooka websites. You’ll get andmore cheaper seats coast andcentraleastern destinations. airlines offering direct west between flights İ between .com.tr) Goodnetworkandfares from€40to€80. % stanbul orAnkara.stanbul Atlasjetisoneof thefew You’ll beable tofindexcellent-qualityspare onmostairlines’You canbookflights Domestic flights areDomestic flights available withthefol- 0212-444 0849; www.thy.com) State-owned Turkish 0212-444 0849;www.thy.com)State-owned 0212-511 0654; www.pedalbisiklet.com in Turkish; Mimar 0212-511 0654;www.pedalbisiklet.com inTurkish; Mimar ( %

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İ DO; TRANSPORT TRANSPORT TRANSPORT Çanakkale, andUluda thearea around for exampleTruvaserves companies have citynetworks; biglocalised hauls. Forshorter trips,you’ll find otherbus there willbeaback-updriver onreally long willrunontime,andthatwell maintained, can bemore confidentthebushasbeen You maypayabitmore, butatleastyou big-name companieswe’ve listed ( p679 ). ally agoodideatostickthereputable whichchoose companytogowith?It’susu- the destinationof yourchoice. Howdoyou ofan onslaught touts,alloffering to buses ies listed ( p679 ). overseats thewebonmostof thebuscompan- mid-June toearlySeptember. Youcanreserve and duringtheschool-holiday periodfrom plan aheadforpublicholidays,atweekends and buyaticket to forthenextbus,it’swise youcanusuallywalkintoanotogar Although Reservations €17 to€22. and from costs €9,from cally, abusticket from Away intheindividualplaceentries.Typi- There underGetting &main busstations Poor Village YtoRich CityX. Village asfrom Ymaynotalwaysbethesame bear, sothatthefare fromRich CityXtoPoor work. Pricesalsoreflect whatthemarket will 680 with the same companyiseasier.with thesame exchanging itforanotherticketbe difficult; around Bursa. When youenter anotogarprepare for We give fares sample fromallTurkey’s After buyingaticket, getting arefund can point-to-point buses. other travellers ratherthanwithTurks, anditwouldprobablybecheaper todoityourselfwith travelling timeframe. The downside tothisisthatyouspendmostofyour timeinTurkey with up withfellow travellers, sinceyou’llbefollowingasimilar route andmaybeeven asimilar places Fez favours, ifyoudoyou’llbedroppedrightatthedoor. It’salsoagreat way tohook todothecircuit. aslongyoulike Safranbolu. Youcantake back to to travel from Nemrut Da desi 15, Sultanahmet, desi 15,Sultanahmet, with A hop-on, hop-off bus service, A hop-on,hop-offbusservice, FEZ BUS ETN RUD • u AROUND••Bus GETTING The bigbonusofusingFez Busisconvenience –althoughyou’re not obligedtostayinthe İ stanbul andCappadocia. FromCappadocia alooptravels outeasttoinclude İ İ stanbul, withtheoptionofadd-on stanbul toGöreme stanbul (Cappadocia) ğ ı (MtNemrut).A‘Turkish Delight’buspass,costing€230(student€205),allows you İ stanbul toAnkaraaround€22, stanbul İ stanbul to Çanakkale, Selçuk,Köyce stanbul toÇanakkale, İ stanbul), İ ğ stanbul toÇanakkale stanbul covers destinations links the main tourist resorts oftheAegean linksthemaintouristresorts andtheMediterranean Fez Bus Mp pp96-7; (Map gület cruises, the‘Eastern Explorer’ and/oratripto bus companiesprovide a otogars move furtheroutof town,somost a otogars. Thisisespeciallytrueifyou’re using either direction forgetting toandfromthe toaddupanhourinbut youmayneed timings wegive are fromotogartootogar, The a bithow-long-is-a-piece-of-stringish. mean isthatreal journeytimesare becoming out of thetowncentres, whatthistends to planning pointof viewtomove theotogars While itobviously fromatown- makes sense Servis no legroom. front don’trecline, behindhave andthose middle doorare in alsoabadchoice; those immediately infrontofseats andbehindthe to hisconductorintotheearlyhours). The cigarette smoke andlisten tohimchatting legroom (youmayhave toinhalethedriver’s behindof thedriver, seats which have little you mayalsowanttoavoid thefrontrow (which can get buses bumpy!).Onnight orimmediatelyget over stuffy) thewheels atthebackof right thebus(whichthose can preference,indicate yourseating avoiding already off. Lookatthechart sold crossed and agent willhave achart withthose of theseats number.will bearaspecificseat Theticket and Safranbolu. there are no there’s a ‘ rival, say and whenitleaves fortheotogar. Onar- buying aticket askwhetherthere’s a passengers toandfromthecity centre. When ğ % servis servis iz, Fethiye, Olympos,Cappadocia andthen All seats are reservable, andyourticket are All seats reservable, 0212-516 9024;www.feztravel.com; Akb (shuttle minibus) servis Servis varm Servis servises servises into town. Rare citieswhere intotown.Rare include Bursa, Konya ı ?’ tofindoutwhether servis

to get there. As lonelyplanet.com Ş anl bustotake ı urfa and urfa ı y ı k Cad- servis

at thepick-uppointfortransfer toNev in Göreme, forexample,youmustusuallybe for getting totheotogar,which meansthat a good45minutes before thebusisscheduled lonelyplanet.com will eatup yourtravel time. Considerplanes, ing time in thecartravelling huge distances ful thatTurkey isahuge countryandspend- off! their lights vehicleson theroad,oreven drivingwith potholes,animals you won’tbeable tosee what youdo. Avoid when drivingatnight, very defensively, and on Turkey’s drive highways, cautiouslyand an irrepressible urge toovertake. Tosurvive They like andhave todrive speed athigh teous, but theyare impatient andincautious. Turkish drivers are notparticularlydiscour- motor-vehicleworld’s highest accidentrates. knuckle-whitening corners. cherish longafter you’ve recovered fromthe Western Mediterranean isaday out you’ll Peninsulathe rugged Hisarönü ( p342 ) of the ing conditions.Hiringascooter toexplore Mediterranean coast, offers excellentdriv- route with travellers, alongtheAegean and along mainroadsatleast–themostpopular Road surfacesandsignage isgenerally good opportunity,justlikepicnic atevery locals. back roadsleadingtohiddenvillages, and localspecialities,explore selling side stalls and coastline. Youcanstopattheteeny road- countryside freedom toenjoythemarvellous Driving around Turkey gives youunparalleled CAR &MOTORCYCLE probably atotherplacestoo. happensatNev certainly their pensionisthebuscompany thattheprivateyou tobelieve minibusto money, thenforget itandjumpintoataxi. not literally). Iftimeismore than important attheirdoorstep off passenger (well, perhaps be protracted ashedropseach andevery Even whenhe shows up,thejourney canstill torunhis dragged awayfromtheTV passengers toarrive orforyourdriver tobe around interminably foranotherbusloadof some snags.Youmayfindyourselfwaiting drive. to leave it’sjusta15-minute though even Servis The badnewsisthatTurkey hasoneof the Also, beware pensionowners wholead When you’re planningyour trip,bemind- are free, theydohave services While these drivers like toallowplentyof time GETTING AROUND••Car&Motorcycle GETTING never ş let emotions affect letemotionsaffect ehir otogarand servis servis . This ş ehir . repairs findan go somewhere to get theparts.For tyre else they (or you)mayhave although to service, often provide excellent,virtuallyimmediate quick andcheap. Roadsiderepair shops can Repairs are usually models indailyservice. mechanics contrive tokeep allmannerof US Mercedes-Benz. ingenious However, Turkish Euro pean modelssuch asRenaults, Fiatsand ily available inthebigcities, especiallyfor central andeastern Anatolia. the morningacross thevastemptyspacesof to have outin whenyoustart afulltank it’sagoodidea Allthesame, enterprises. least inwestern Turkey, andmanyare mega at petrolstations. per litre. You canusuallypaywithcredit cards kur between In Turkey there islittledifference inprice Fuel &SpareParts not required. but an international drivingpermitisuseful Your ownnationallicencewillbesufficient; Drivers must have avaliddrivinglicence. Driving Licence to buyitattheborder. you. Ifyoudon’thave insurance,you’llneed your carregistration andinsurancepolicyon time over thesixmonths. Ensure youhave be prepared tobecharged aheftyfineforany ithere,out again.Don’tplanonselling and in yourpassporttoensure youtake itback oneinwithyouwillbemarkedyou brought months withoutcharge. thefactthat However, You canbringyourvehicle intoTurkey forsix Bring YourOwnVehicle Unlimited the Turkey-related informationon community resource forridinginTurkey, and Riders Mile More Automobile Association; Kurumu Otomobil ve Turing Türkiye Turkey’s mainmotoringorganisation isthe Automobile Associations .tr; Oto Sanay .tr; Oto hiring a car for localised travel.hiring acarforlocalised tocovertrains orbuses and longdistances Motorcyclists maywanttocheck out Yedek parçalar There are everywhere, petrolstations at ş unsuz

(www.horizonsunlimited.com/country/turkey/). süper benzin ı SitesiYan (lead-free); bothcostaround€1.6 oto lastikçi İ stanbul ı % , Seyrantepe 4Levent, , Seyrantepe ı (spare parts)are read- 0212-282 8140;www.turing.org (normal petrol)and , (www.ommriders.com) (tyre repairer). The (Turkish Touring & Touring (Turkish

İ stanbul) Horizons Horizons

681 .

One , a TRANSPORT TRANSPORT TRANSPORT Çanakkale, andUluda thearea around for exampleTruvaserves companies have citynetworks; biglocalised hauls. Forshorter trips,you’ll find otherbus there willbeaback-updriver onreally long willrunontime,andthatwell maintained, can bemore confidentthebushasbeen You maypayabitmore, butatleastyou big-name companieswe’ve listed ( p679 ). ally agoodideatostickthereputable whichchoose companytogowith?It’susu- the destinationof yourchoice. Howdoyou ofan onslaught touts,alloffering to buses ies listed ( p679 ). overseats thewebonmostof thebuscompan- mid-June toearlySeptember. Youcanreserve and duringtheschool-holiday periodfrom plan aheadforpublicholidays,atweekends and buyaticket to forthenextbus,it’swise youcanusuallywalkintoanotogar Although Reservations €17 to€22. and from costs €9,from cally, abusticket from Away intheindividualplaceentries.Typi- There underGetting &main busstations Poor Village YtoRich CityX. Village asfrom Ymaynotalwaysbethesame bear, sothatthefare fromRich CityXtoPoor work. Pricesalsoreflect whatthemarket will 680 with the same companyiseasier.with thesame exchanging itforanotherticketbe difficult; around Bursa. When youenter anotogarprepare for We give fares sample fromallTurkey’s After buyingaticket, getting arefund can point-to-point buses. other travellers ratherthanwithTurks, anditwouldprobablybecheaper todoityourselfwith travelling timeframe. The downside tothisisthatyouspendmostofyour timeinTurkey with up withfellow travellers, sinceyou’llbefollowingasimilar route andmaybeeven asimilar places Fez favours, ifyoudoyou’llbedroppedrightatthedoor. It’salsoagreat way tohook todothecircuit. aslongyoulike Safranbolu. Youcantake back to to travel from Nemrut Da desi 15, Sultanahmet, desi 15,Sultanahmet, with A hop-on, hop-off bus service, A hop-on,hop-offbusservice, FEZ BUS ETN RUD • u AROUND••Bus GETTING The bigbonusofusingFez Busisconvenience –althoughyou’re not obligedtostayinthe İ stanbul andCappadocia. FromCappadocia alooptravels outeasttoinclude İ İ stanbul, withtheoptionofadd-on stanbul toGöreme stanbul (Cappadocia) ğ ı (MtNemrut).A‘Turkish Delight’buspass,costing€230(student€205),allows you İ stanbul toAnkaraaround€22, stanbul İ stanbul to Çanakkale, Selçuk,Köyce stanbul toÇanakkale, İ stanbul), İ ğ stanbul toÇanakkale stanbul covers destinations links the main tourist resorts oftheAegean linksthemaintouristresorts andtheMediterranean Fez Bus Mp pp96-7; (Map gület cruises, the‘Eastern Explorer’ and/oratripto bus companiesprovide a otogars move furtheroutof town,somost a otogars. Thisisespeciallytrueifyou’re using either direction forgetting toandfromthe toaddupanhourinbut youmayneed timings wegive are fromotogartootogar, The a bithow-long-is-a-piece-of-stringish. mean isthatreal journeytimesare becoming out of thetowncentres, whatthistends to planning pointof viewtomove theotogars While itobviously fromatown- makes sense Servis no legroom. front don’trecline, behindhave andthose middle doorare in alsoabadchoice; those immediately infrontofseats andbehindthe to hisconductorintotheearlyhours). The cigarette smoke andlisten tohimchatting legroom (youmayhave toinhalethedriver’s behindof thedriver, seats which have little you mayalsowanttoavoid thefrontrow (which can get buses bumpy!).Onnight orimmediatelyget over stuffy) thewheels atthebackof right thebus(whichthose can preference,indicate yourseating avoiding already off. Lookatthechart sold crossed and agent willhave achart withthose of theseats number.will bearaspecificseat Theticket and Safranbolu. there are no there’s a ‘ rival, say and whenitleaves fortheotogar. Onar- buying aticket askwhetherthere’s a passengers toandfromthecity centre. When ğ % servis servis iz, Fethiye, Olympos,Cappadocia andthen All seats are reservable, andyourticket are All seats reservable, 0212-516 9024;www.feztravel.com; Akb (shuttle minibus) servis Servis varm Servis servises servises into town. Rare citieswhere intotown.Rare include Bursa, Konya ı ?’ tofindoutwhether servis

to get there. As lonelyplanet.com Ş anl bustotake ı urfa and urfa ı y ı k Cad- servis

İ stanbul) Horizons Horizons

681 .

One , a TRANSPORT TRANSPORT TRANSPORT arranged duringthesummer months (fora report within48hours. if youdidnotsubmit therequired accident of alcohol orotherdrugs, were or speeding, that youwere operatingundertheinfluence insurance maybevoidifitcan shown your car-hire companywithin48hours. Your ask youtotake abreath-alcohol test. Contact raporu finding apoliceofficer andasking fora any,donotmoveif youcause thecarbefore forahire yoursearch good placetostart car. Express Hire est operatorintheAegean region. and İ (www.decar.com.tr) Recommended localcompaniesinclude chargefor moneyanddoesn’t fee. adrop-off Europcar the mostextensive networkof agencies, but and mostairport. Hertz andNational)inallmaincities,towns tional companies(Avis, Budget, Europcar, Dalaman). anddrop-off in fee (egpickupinAntalya, companies charge a€100to€140drop-off transmission. Note thatmostof thebig-name transmission; you’llpaymore forautomatic posit. Mosthire cars have (manual) standard you willhave toleave around€500cashde- car. Ifyoudon’tpaywithamajor credit card year’s drivingexperience,tobeable tohire a You need to beatleast21years old,witha Hire repair centres in (www.horizonsunlimited.com/country/turkey/) get thepartdelivered bybus. ring an If youdoget stuckforapartyoucouldalso mechanics tofind,adaptormake youapart. or rely ontheboundlessingenuity of Turkish need, the bigcities,sobringwhatyoumight may behardtocomebyeverywhere except you’re bound tohave afinetime. Spare parts onSunday. ally closed repair costinadvance. Repairshops are usu- skirts of townwillhave every repair shops. sanayi bölgesi 682 stanbul If youbringyourmotorcycletoTurkey The total costof hireThe total astandard vehicle If yourcarincurs anyaccidentdamage, or You canhire acarfromthebiginterna- toget anestimateIt’s alwayswise of the Green Car Green ETN RUD • a oocce AROUND••Car&Motorcycle GETTING (accidentreport). may Theofficer

İ (www.europcar.com) ( stanbul orAnkararepairstanbul centre and %

(http://turkey.carhireexpress.co.uk) 0533-467 0724;

(industrialzone)ontheout- , withnodrop-off fee, (www.greenautorent.com) İ stanbul Avis (www.avis.com.tr/english)

isoften thebestvalue

www.carrentalturkey.info) . Horizons Unlimited Horizons has alistof , thelarg- Turkey Car Car Turkey isalsoa Car Rental Rental Car kaza kaza has Decar

offer undercover parkingforguests,andmost walk fromyouraccommodation. itmaybe a short insomecases so on–though cities – inthelargestfind. Youcanfindparkingeven Parking aroundthecountryisfairlyeasyto Parking home covers thecostsof anaccident. itifyourtravelmay notneed insurancefrom accident insuranceisusuallyoptional;you the TheftProtection (TP)insurance. Personal covers damage tothehire caroranother,and the CollisionDamage Waiver (CDW),which of mandatoryinsuranceincludedinthefee, attheborder.purchased or EuropeanTurkey), oraTurkish policy for theentire country(notjustforThrace You Insurance usually available foraround€5.50perday. not beinganycars available. hire Baby-seat is booking ahead,butyouruntheriskof there Hiring onthespottends tobecheaper than the sizeandtypeof carandthehire location. 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Yourbestbetistoring be free oryou’llberequired topayanhourly caretaker, it’ll orontheroad, in which case byinanemptyblockoverseenbe close bya theirs Iftheydon’t,carparkingwill touse. side parkingplaceortwothatisnominally midrange andbudget optionshave aroad- Top-end andahandfulof midrange hotels If youhire acarthere willbetwotypes Note thatcarclampingisafactof life in must İ stanbul, Ankara, stanbul, have third-partyinsurance,valid otoyols İ zmir allthewayaround (motorways)fromthe İ zmir, Antalya and zmir, Antalya lonelyplanet.com İ stanbul and stanbul wheels almosteverywherewheels exceptalongthe In badwinters chains youwillneed onyour police maystopyouinmore remote areas Aegean andMediterranean coastandthe lonelyplanet.com Antalya viaFethiye.Antalya winding road fromBodrum andMarmaris to thatplythelongand to avoid themidibuses onlongstretches.not atallcomfortable Try backs, have withrigid upright narrow seats Theyusually forfull-sizebuses. lar enough are toolongfordolmu get out). hop out,say small townsandvillages. themtoget times. You’llusuallyuse between taken before out,others starting operate atset city –see right is seat .) Somewaituntilevery (They alsoprovide localtransportwithina Dolmu DOLMU justtoannouncetheirapproach.lights of theroadandoncomingdrivers flashingtheir missing,vehicles lights stoppedinthemiddle expect toencounter cars orwith withoutlights Try toavoid butifyoudo, drivingatnight, overladenalong behindslow,seriously trucks. reconcile tospendinghours yourself crawling many two-laneroadsare youmust serpentine, (40km/h minimum)on and130km/hmaximum 90km/h onhighways posted, areunless otherwise 50km/hintowns, Maximum limits, but rarely speed observed. the brakes andpray. opposite direction, allthree drivers slamon Ifacar on blindcurves. approaches fromthe preparedno-one. Be fordrivers overtaking they often drive inthemiddleandyieldto approaching traffic Inpractice, fromtheright. In theory,Turksdrive andyieldto ontheright Road Rules in summer. reduceBolu thatcanseriously visibilityeven should beaware of anastyfogbeltaround emergencies. to check thatyou’re properlyprepared for days theyare very often intercity minibuses. routeserated for flatfares, onset butthese If drivinginwinter becareful of icyroads. Midibuses generally operateMidibuses onroutes that As there are onlyafew and dividedhighways If drivingfrom To letthedriver know that youwantto The international drivingsignsare there ş es started lifees started asshared thatop- taxis Ş ES &MIDIBUSES ‘inecek var’ GETTING AROUND••Dolmu GETTING İ stanbul toAnkarayou stanbul ş es, yetnotquite popu- otoyols (someonewantsto . to ask the driver: ‘[your destination] to askthe driver: terminals orintersections, butyou mayneed ally conveniently located nearmajor squares, Place).They’reBoarding andAlighting usu- ‘Dolmu ‘D’ onablue-and-white backgroundreading ping placesare marked bysignswithablack a dolmu routes, you’llfeel confidentabout pickingup dolmu taxi few citiesstillhave old-fashioned, shared- expensive daysonlya thanthebus.These more more andonlyslightly comfortable routes within acity.They’re usuallyfaster, Dolmu Local Dolmu routes asmunicipalbuses. same accept eithercashortickets, andfollowthe are Theprivate buses buses. usuallyolder, routes operate asmunicipal onthesame buses €0.65. local bustickets, which normallycostaround point. Someshops nearbusstopsalsosell either atamajor busterminal oratatransfer (ticket) inadvanceataspecialticket kiosk, youmustbuyyour For mostcitybuses Bus LOCAL TRANSPORT if bouncingabasketball. towards theroad,andwave itupanddownas holdyourarmout you should facethe traffic, or private car. whatever comesalong,beitatractor,lorry archaeological site, youhitch aridewith toget toan If youneed fromthehighway tively scarce,shorthitches are quite normal. be inforalongwaitonsomeroutes. are notasplentiful asinEurope,soyoucould hitchers fortheircuriosityvalue. Private cars mostdriverspetrol, although pickupforeign probably offer topaysomethingtowardsthe are risk. apotentially serious taking decide tohitch should understand thatthey and wedon’trecommend it.Travellers who Hitching entirely isnever safe inanycountry, HITCHING var m examples). In some cities, notably In somecities,notably Instead of stickingoutyourthumbforalift If youmust As thecountryislarge andvehicles rela- Once you’ve gottogrips withafew local ı ? ş ’ ş es are thatoperate onset minibuses ş

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(industrialzone)ontheout- , withnodrop-off fee, (www.greenautorent.com) İ stanbul Avis (www.avis.com.tr/english)

isoften thebestvalue

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atthekerb. Inthelarger cities,stop- İ ndirme Bindirme Yeri’ ş es (Bursa, Trabzon and ş

otostop (hitch), youshould ş es &Midibuses İ stanbul, private stanbul, (Dolmu İ zmir are dolmu 683 bilet ş

TRANSPORT TRANSPORT TRANSPORT able service. Turkish tour operators offer we believe areli- destination chapters. Thefollowingare some are on p135 . Others are namedintherelevant before committing. the pricesinthisguidebookandshop around figure tripyourself using fordoingthesame to get tooparanoid.Figure outaball-park operating alongsidethesharks,so trynot thereHowever, are plentyof very goodagents areaoperating intheSultanahmet of local travel agents, especiallysomeof those lers whofeel thattheyhave by fleeced been Every yearwe receive complaintsfromtravel- TOURS atram. €0.65 touse of getting around;normallyyou payaround (trams), which are way aquickandefficient citiesalsohave overgroundSeveral Tram advance toavoid argument later. and thenitshouldalwaysbeconfirmedin ological site) fare shouldyouagree aset – tour involvingwaitingtime(egtoanarchae- Only whenyouare foraprivate usingataxi cab and,ifconvenient, complaintothepolice. to runthemeter. Ifthishappensfindanother amount,giveexorbitant yougrief,andrefuse their share. But mostof thetimethey’llaskan the moneyinstead of givingthecabowners Sometimes theyoffer adecentfare andpocket try todemandflatpaymentfromforeigners. gece rate:ning theright thedriver isrun- (around €0.65).Checktosee ing rate asthelocalbusfare isabout thesame by saying away mentionitright If yourdriver doesn’t, meters, andmostdrivers them. routinelyuse All over Turkey are taxis fitted withdigital Taxi itintotheticket€0.65 andinsert barrier. you tobuya fore youfindaroute map.Mostmetrosrequire have theticket through barriers togoright be- youmay although quick andsimpletouse, İ tially underground metros,including citiesnowhave undergroundSeveral orpar- Metro 684 zmir, Bursa and Ankara. These arezmir, Bursa andAnkara. These usually The listof agents we recommend in Some driverstaxi –particularlyin at night (which atnight costs50%more). ETN RUD • or AROUND••Tours GETTING ‘Saatiniz’ jeton (transporttoken) foraround gündüz (yourmeter). Thestart- inthedaytime,and tramvays İ İ İ stanbul – stanbul stanbul, stanbul, stanbul. stanbul. İ stanbul stanbul

Demiryollar Also operatestheFez Bus;seetheboxed text, p680 . toursaroundTurkey, tours. Backpacker includingGallipoli p135 too.. French spoken travel.com; Akb .com) Adventure travelspecialist basedinKa ernment isthrowingmoneyatthesystem, acompleteneeds overhaul. thegov- Certainly Ankara run,somecontest thatthenetwork the newlyinaugurated high-speed space of afew in2004,includingoneon weeks withthreeHowever, nastytraincrashesinthe ening travel timesonthebestexpress trains. more direct lineshave since laid,short- been low theshortest route,afew though newer, out duringthelate Ottomanerararely fol- acrossthecountry.Lineslaid runs services Railways State Turkish TRAIN Olympica Voyage Kirkit Fez Travel Bougainville Travel Amber Travel tion costs. journey is agreat waytosave accommoda- And ifyou’re onabudget, an overnight train long journeyare allpart of theadventure. and publictoilets gone feral bytheendof the locals. Theoccasionalunannounced hold-up slumber andtheimmersion with friendly acomfy the rhythmicclickity-clacksthrough stunning sceneryrollingbypicture windows, fans embracingtheno-rushtravel experience: Turkeythrough hasagrowingnumberof bus fromthere. train toeither and Mediterranean coastsyoucouldgoby between the coastlinesatall,apartfromashort stretch ern Turkey goalong fairlywell,butdoesn’t started orare onthedrawingboard. Sivas andKars, andEdirne andKars have and Ankara(anewline),Konya, the country.Fast-rail linksbetween hoping tobuildafast-railnetworkthroughout Based inKa packages’. Olympica specialisein‘buildyourownactivity specialists), including CustomisedtoursaroundTurkey (Cappadocia .kirkit.com) in Ka Adventure travelspecialistbased .bougainville-turkey.com) In terms of whattoexpect,traintravel The trainnetworkcovers centralandeast- ş ; see p371 . ( ı ş (Map (Map pp96-7 ; , TCDD; % ; see p371 . İ zmir and Selçuk. FortheAegeanzmir andSelçuk. ı ( y (Map (Map pp96-7 ; 0242-836 2049;www.olympicatravel.com) ı % k Caddesi 15, Sultanahmet, k Caddesi15,Sultanahmet, % İ zmir orKonya,andtake the 0242-836 1630;www.ambertravel İ stanbul city and Gallipoli tours;see stanbul cityandGallipoli ( 0216-337 8724; % %

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www.tcdd.gov.tr) ş ; see p371 . İ stanbul) İ stanbul– İ stanbul stanbul

and toknowwhatexpectinterms of how is toplanstopsenroute forlong-haultrips lonelyplanet.com İ ‘first come,bestseated’. compartments,sometimes they’rein these can bebookedclass coaches. Sometimesseats usually dividedinto1st-and2nd- six seats, also have European-stylecompartments with able reclining carriages. Some Pullmanseat ing options.Mostof thetrainshave comfort- andsleep- Turkish trainshave seating several Classes &Costs main stations. thenamesof andAlsancak, Basmane thetwo İ to/from table, p157 andcostsof, fortimetable trains the double-check alltraindeparture times.See and Konya, and theovernight trainsbetween lar traintripsinclude 24 hours, theplanelessthantwohours. Popu- and that’sanexpress! Thebustakes lessthan (Tatvan), a1900kmtrip,takes over 40hours – Vangölü Ekspresi long ajourneywilltake. Forexample,the refer toHaydarpa ratherthancities.Somostschedules stations (couchette) wagonhasshared four- orsome- stanbul andAleppo(Syria).Makestanbul sure you stanbul. For stanbul. The key toenjoyingtraintravel inTurkey There are three typesof sleeper. A Note thattrain schedules usuallyindicate and thenighttrainsfrom bottle ofwine,andletthescenerycometoyou! waytogo. trainsaretime-effective Other slowerandolder,butjustputyourfeet up,opena an Europe. The sceneryisoften better! Chillingout over amealandbeerintherestaurant carof is incredibly cheap,butthebesttrainsare air-conditioned andasgoodmanyinWestern ondistanthilltops. Turkishand aridmountains,withoccasionalglimpsesofforts traintravel cometobelieve itsway acrossTurkey, thisasyourtrainsnakes certainly rounddeepvalleys Turkey’s railways,andtheynever usedastraightlinewhere adozen woulddo!You’ll curves According toanoldTurkish theGermanswere joke, tobuildmostof paidbythekilometre MAN INSEAT 61 İ stanbul–Ankara express isagreatstanbul–Ankara waytorecover roundthesightsof fromtrekking İ stanbul. İ stanbul andTehranstanbul (Iran),and İ zmir, you will probably see zmir, youwillprobablysee GETTING AROUND••Train GETTING from ş and founderofthemightyfinewebsite,www.seat61.com.Ifyou’re even remotely a andSirkeci ratherthan With thankstoMarkSmith,aka theManinSeat61,aglobalrail travel authority İ İ stanbul to Lake Van toLake stanbul stanbul toAnkara, stanbul İ stanbul toDenizli(forPamukkale) orKonyaare amostromanticand İ stanbul stanbul kü interested intravelling bytrain you’llwanttocheckitout. ş etli

www.tcdd. gov.tr. be busiest. looming (see p659 ). Weekend trainstend to especially ifareligious orpublicholidayis asfarinadvancepossible, your reservation wagons are very popular,youshouldmake Asmust bereserved. the andallsleepers onthebesttrains Most seats Reservations areway network;Eurailpasses not. aredomino passes validontheTurkishrail- discount. andreturnthe disabled tickets get a20% of bustickets. Children, students,seniors, sleeper. compartmentsanda seating unreserved man carriages, twocovered couchettes, two İ The service. the same travelling ontheirownovernight trips. arepeople –these thebestoptionforwomen ding provided, capableof onetothree sleeping compartments, withwashbasinandallbed- wagon hasprivate European-stylesleeping kü örtülü is notprovided wagonsunlessit’san forthese beds.Bedding that folddownintoshelf-like times six-person compartmentswithseats stanbul toKars,stanbul forexample,hastwopull- Inter-Rail, Flexipass andEuro- Balkan Train tickets are usuallyabout halftheprice You canbookandpayfortickets onlineat There isusuallyamixof optionson these ş etli or‘covered’ couchette. A Do © LonelyPlanetPublications yatakl ğ u Express ı

(sleeping-car) (sleeping-car) İ stanbul, from yatakl 685

TRANSPORT TRANSPORT TRANSPORT able service. Turkish tour operators offer we believe areli- destination chapters. Thefollowingare some are on p135 . Others are namedintherelevant before committing. the pricesinthisguidebookandshop around figure tripyourself using fordoingthesame to get tooparanoid.Figure outaball-park operating alongsidethesharks,so trynot thereHowever, are plentyof very goodagents areaoperating intheSultanahmet of local travel agents, especiallysomeof those lers whofeel thattheyhave by fleeced been Every yearwe receive complaintsfromtravel- TOURS atram. €0.65 touse of getting around;normallyyou payaround (trams), which are way aquickandefficient citiesalsohave overgroundSeveral Tram advance toavoid argument later. and thenitshouldalwaysbeconfirmedin ological site) fare shouldyouagree aset – tour involvingwaitingtime(egtoanarchae- Only whenyouare foraprivate usingataxi cab and,ifconvenient, complaintothepolice. to runthemeter. Ifthishappensfindanother amount,giveexorbitant yougrief,andrefuse their share. But mostof thetimethey’llaskan the moneyinstead of givingthecabowners Sometimes theyoffer adecentfare andpocket try todemandflatpaymentfromforeigners. gece rate:ning theright thedriver isrun- (around €0.65).Checktosee ing rate asthelocalbusfare isabout thesame by saying away mentionitright If yourdriver doesn’t, meters, andmostdrivers them. routinelyuse All over Turkey are taxis fitted withdigital Taxi itintotheticket€0.65 andinsert barrier. you tobuya fore youfindaroute map.Mostmetrosrequire have theticket through barriers togoright be- youmay although quick andsimpletouse, İ tially underground metros,including citiesnowhave undergroundSeveral orpar- Metro 684 zmir, Bursa and Ankara. These arezmir, Bursa andAnkara. These usually Some driverstaxi –particularlyin The listof agents we recommend in at night (which atnight costs50%more). ETN RUD • or AROUND••Tours GETTING ‘Saatiniz’ jeton (transporttoken) foraround gündüz (yourmeter). Thestart- inthedaytime,and tramvays İ İ İ stanbul – stanbul stanbul, stanbul, stanbul. stanbul. İ stanbul stanbul

Demiryollar Also operatestheFez Bus;seetheboxed text, p680 . toursaroundTurkey, tours. Backpacker includingGallipoli p135 too.. French spoken travel.com; Akb .com) Adventure travelspecialist basedinKa ernment isthrowingmoneyatthesystem, acompleteneeds overhaul. thegov- Certainly Ankara run,somecontest thatthenetwork the newlyinaugurated high-speed space of afew in2004,includingoneon weeks withthreeHowever, nastytraincrashesinthe ening travel timesonthebestexpress trains. more direct lineshave since laid,short- been low theshortest route,afew though newer, out duringthelate Ottomanerararely fol- acrossthecountry.Lineslaid runs services Railways State Turkish TRAIN Olympica Voyage Kirkit Fez Travel Bougainville Travel Amber Travel tion costs. journey is agreat waytosave accommoda- And ifyou’re onabudget, anovernight train long journeyare allpart of theadventure. and publictoilets gone feral bytheendof the locals. Theoccasionalunannounced hold-up slumber andtheimmersion with friendly acomfy the rhythmicclickity-clacksthrough stunning sceneryrollingbypicture windows, fans embracingtheno-rushtravel experience: Turkeythrough hasagrowingnumberof bus fromthere. train toeither and Mediterranean coastsyoucouldgoby between the coastlinesatall,apartfromashort stretch ern Turkey goalong fairlywell,butdoesn’t started orare onthedrawingboard. Sivas andKars, andEdirne andKars have and Ankara(anewline),Konya, the country.Fast-rail linksbetween hoping tobuildafast-railnetworkthroughout Based inKa packages’. Olympica specialisein‘buildyourownactivity specialists), including CustomisedtoursaroundTurkey (Cappadocia .kirkit.com) in Ka Adventure travelspecialistbased .bougainville-turkey.com) In terms of whattoexpect,traintravel The trainnetworkcovers centralandeast- ş ; see p371 . ( ı ş (Map (Map pp96-7 ; , TCDD; % ; see p371 . İ zmir and Selçuk. FortheAegeanzmir andSelçuk. ı ( y (Map (Map pp96-7 ; 0242-836 2049;www.olympicatravel.com) ı % k Caddesi 15, Sultanahmet, k Caddesi15,Sultanahmet, % İ zmir orKonya,andtake the 0242-836 1630;www.ambertravel İ stanbul city and Gallipoli tours;see stanbul cityandGallipoli ( 0216-337 8724; % %

0242-836 3737;www (Türkiye Cumhuriyeti Devlet Devlet Cumhuriyeti (Türkiye % 0212-516 9024;www.fez 0212-518 2282;www lonelyplanet.com

www.tcdd.gov.tr) ş ; see p371 . İ stanbul) İ stanbul– İ stanbul stanbul

and toknowwhatexpectinterms of how is toplanstopsenroute forlong-haultrips lonelyplanet.com ‘first come,bestseated’. compartments,sometimes they’rein these can bebookedclass coaches. Sometimesseats usually dividedinto1st-and2nd- six seats, also have European-stylecompartments with able reclining carriages. Some Pullmanseat ing options.Mostof thetrainshave comfort- andsleep- Turkish trainshave seating several Classes &Costs main stations. thenamesof andAlsancak, Basmane thetwo İ refer toHaydarpa ratherthancities.Somostschedules stations to/from table, p157 andcostsof, fortimetable trains the double-check alltraindeparture times.See İ and Konya, and theovernight trainsbetween lar traintripsinclude 24 hours, theplanelessthantwohours. Popu- and that’sanexpress! Thebustakes lessthan (Tatvan), a1900kmtrip,takes over 40hours – Vangölü Ekspresi long ajourneywilltake. Forexample,the (couchette) wagonhasshared four- orsome- stanbul andAleppo(Syria).Makestanbul sure you stanbul. For stanbul. The key toenjoyingtraintravel inTurkey There are three typesof sleeper. A Note thattrain schedules usuallyindicate and thenighttrainsfrom bottle ofwine,andletthescenerycometoyou! waytogo. trainsaretime-effective Other slowerandolder,butjustputyourfeet up,opena an Europe. The sceneryisoften better! Chillingout over amealandbeerintherestaurant carof is incredibly cheap,butthebesttrainsare air-conditioned andasgoodmanyinWestern ondistanthilltops. Turkishand aridmountains,withoccasionalglimpsesofforts traintravel cometobelieve itsway acrossTurkey, thisasyourtrainsnakes certainly rounddeepvalleys Turkey’s railways,andtheynever usedastraightlinewhere adozen woulddo!You’ll curves According toanoldTurkish theGermanswere joke, tobuildmostof paidbythekilometre MAN INSEAT 61 İ stanbul–Ankara express isagreatstanbul–Ankara waytorecover roundthesightsof fromtrekking İ stanbul. İ stanbul andTehranstanbul (Iran),and İ zmir, you will probably see zmir, youwillprobablysee GETTING AROUND••Train GETTING from ş and founderofthemightyfinewebsite,www.seat61.com.Ifyou’re even remotely a andSirkeci ratherthan With thankstoMarkSmith,aka theManinSeat61,aglobalrail travel authority İ İ stanbul to Lake Van toLake stanbul stanbul toAnkara, stanbul İ stanbul toDenizli(forPamukkale) orKonyaare amostromanticand İ stanbul stanbul kü interested intravelling bytrain you’llwanttocheckitout. ş etli

(sleeping-car) (sleeping-car) İ stanbul, from yatakl 685

TRANSPORT TRANSPORT HEALTH k ı is is ul 687 ğ sa by Ted by Ted (www.cdc

Traveller’s Traveller’s International International by Stuart R Rose MD and Travel With Children With Travel stanbul and Ankara offer world- stanbul offer and Ankara İ by Dr Richard Dawood, by Dr Richard (health centre), but don’t expect anyone (health centre), ı u is a very useful source of traveller’s health health traveller’s useful source of is a very ğ Medicine, and even sterile dressings or in- dressings and even sterile Medicine, and variable are dentalStandards care of For basic care for things such as cuts, bruises for things such For basic care IN TURKEY IN TURKEY AVAILABILITY & COST OF HEALTH CARE in Tur- system the health care of The standard Although variable. the best private is very key hospitals in to expensive they are care, standardsclass of hospitals even private don’t use. Elsewhere, particularly high standardsalways offer and Some their state-run equivalents even less so. hepatitis during contracted patients may have their stay in hospital. and jabs you could ask for the local oca as- to speak anything but Turkish. The travel by your insurance may be sistance provided medical of source the nearest able to locate help, otherwise In an emer- ask at your hotel. contact your embassy or consulate. gency, fluids, may need to be bought from travenous limited is often care a local pharmacy. Nursing or rudimentary, the assumption being that the patient. family and friends will look after hepatitis B and HIV transmis- is a risk of there sion via poorly sterilised so watch equipment, insur- Your travel the tools in use carefully. you for anything ance will not usually cover dental treatment. other than emergency no cost. Another website of general interest interest general of website Another no cost. (www.mdtravelhealth Health Travel is MD health travel complete provides .com), which for every country, updated recommendations the for no cost. The website daily, also at Centers Control & Prevention for Disease .gov) information. FURTHER READING Lonely Planet’s on topics information with useful packed aid, first planning, emergency as pretrip such immunisation and disease information and on the road. Other sick what to do if you get include references recommended Health Guide Health Travel Guide Good Health The Travellers’ useful an especially Lankester, health guide for working expatriates and long-term volunteers in the Middle East. , which , which World Health Organ- publishes a superb publishes a superb (www.dh.gov.uk/PolicyAnd (www.cdc.gov/travel/) & Cost of Health Care IN TURKEY •• Availability (www.smartraveller.gov.au) (www.travelhealth.gc.ca) (www.who.int/ith/en)

International Travel and Health Travel International Guidance/HealthAdviceForTravellers/fs/en) TRAVEL HEALTH WEBSITES WEBSITES HEALTH TRAVEL It’s a good idea to consult your government’s departure, if before health website travel one is available. Australia Canada Kingdom United States United Your travel insurance will not usually cover will not usually cover insurance Your travel ization book, online at is revised annually and is available payment in cash). If you are required to pay required cash). If you are payment in all documenta- you keep sure upfront, make in centre ask you to call a tion. Some policies for an charges) country (reverse your home It’s your problem. assessmentimmediate of insurance will travel also worth ensuring your or ambulances or transport either home cover Not all medical facilities elsewhere. to better evacu- medical emergency insurance covers a hospitalation home by plane or to in a major medical way to get may be the only city, which in a seriousattention emergency. dental emergency you for anything other than treatment. RECOMMENDED VACCINATIONS recommends Organization The World Health they the region of regardless that all travellers, for diphthe- be covered in, should travelling are measles, mumps, rubella and polio,ria, tetanus, While making prepar- as well as hepatitis B. the opportunity to ensure take ations to travel, is your routine vaccination cover that all of these The consequences diseases of complete. do occur in the and outbreaks can be severe Middle East. Rabies is also endemic in Turkey, track the beaten off so if you will be travelling you might jab. want to consider an anti-rabies INTERNET RESOURCES on the advice health travel is a wealth of There For further information, the Lonely internet. is (www.lonelyplanet.com) Planet website a good place to start. The lonelyplanet.com INSURANCE plan will insurance if your in advance Find out or re- providers to payments directly make health expend- for overseas later you imburse expect generally doctors (in Turkey itures (IMAT; (IMAT;

International . Its website can help travellers to help travellers can . Its website reactions) to remote areas) to remote for cuts and abrasions rashes) the skin and bed nets clothing, tents track) or aspirin in Turkey) expensive Sun block (it’s very salts Oral rehydration purification) Iodine tablets (for water Bactroban) ointment (eg Antibacterial or cortisone cream (allergic Steroid rolls gauze Bandages, gauze, or paper tape Adhesive tweezers pins, Scissors, safety Thermometer knife Pocket DEET–containing for insect repellent insect for spray Permethrin–containing off the beaten Antibiotics (if travelling loperamide) Antidiarrhoeal drugs (eg (Tylenol) Acetaminophen/paracetamol ibuprofen) Anti-inflammatory drugs (eg needles (if travelling Syringes and sterile and allergic Antihistamines (for hay fever MEDICAL CHECKLIST MEDICAL CHECKLIST you should consider items is a list of Here packing in your medical kit.

It’s tempting to leave it all to the last minute – it all to the last minute to leave It’s tempting Before You Go Before 687 Insurance Recommended Vaccinations Resources Internet Reading Further In Turkey Care & Cost of Health Availability 687 Diseases Infectious Diarrhoea Traveller’s Environmental Hazards 686 687 with Children Travelling Women’s Health 687 687 688 689 689 687 690 690

Prevention is the key to staying healthy while healthy to staying is the key Prevention don’t! Many vaccines don’t ensure immunity vaccines don’t ensure don’t! Many so visit a given, until two weeks are they after departure. doctor four to eight weeks before Certifi- your doctor for an International Ask (otherwise known as the Vaccination of cate will list all the vaccin- yellow booklet), which This is mandatory for received. ations you’ve yellow fever of proof countries that require vaccination upon entry, but it’s a good idea you travel. to carry it wherever lenses and glasses (and take your optical lenses and glasses your optical (and take with you); and carry a first-aid prescription kit with you. a lot of trouble later. See your dentist be- trouble later. a lot of contact pair of a long trip; carry a spare fore A little planning before departure, particu- departure, before A little planning you illnesses, will save larly for pre-existing BEFORE YOU GO BEFORE YOU GO potholes. Medical facilities can be excellent potholes. Medical they may areas cities, but in remoter in large basic. be more precautions. The most common reason for The most common reason precautions. needing medical help is as a result travellers not always well main- are – cars accidents of with littered tained, and poorly lit roads are ally associated with poor living conditions with poor living conditions ally associated with a few can be avoided and and poverty, travelling in Turkey. Infectious diseases Infectious can in Turkey. travelling usu- but they are and do occur in Turkey,

CONTENTS Health © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © 686 HEALTH HEALTH HEALTH k ı is is ul 687 ğ sa by Ted by Ted (www.cdc

International Travel and Health Travel International

Guidance/HealthAdviceForTravellers/fs/en) TRAVEL HEALTH WEBSITES WEBSITES HEALTH TRAVEL It’s a good idea to consult your government’s departure, if before health website travel one is available. Australia Canada Kingdom United States United Your travel insurance will not usually cover will not usually cover insurance Your travel

ization book, online at is revised annually and is available

payment in cash). If you are required to pay required cash). If you are payment in all documenta- you keep sure upfront, make in centre ask you to call a tion. Some policies for an charges) country (reverse your home It’s your problem. assessmentimmediate of insurance will travel also worth ensuring your or ambulances or transport either home cover Not all medical facilities elsewhere. to better evacu- medical emergency insurance covers a hospitalation home by plane or to in a major medical way to get may be the only city, which in a seriousattention emergency. dental emergency you for anything other than treatment. RECOMMENDED VACCINATIONS recommends Organization The World Health they the region of regardless that all travellers, for diphthe- be covered in, should travelling are measles, mumps, rubella and polio,ria, tetanus, While making prepar- as well as hepatitis B. the opportunity to ensure take ations to travel, is your routine vaccination cover that all of these The consequences diseases of complete. do occur in the and outbreaks can be severe Middle East. Rabies is also endemic in Turkey, track the beaten off so if you will be travelling you might jab. want to consider an anti-rabies INTERNET RESOURCES on the advice health travel is a wealth of There For further information, the Lonely internet. is (www.lonelyplanet.com) Planet website a good place to start. The lonelyplanet.com INSURANCE plan will insurance if your in advance Find out or re- providers to payments directly make health expend- for overseas later you imburse expect generally doctors (in Turkey itures (IMAT; (IMAT;

Travellers can register with the can register Travellers original, clearly Bring medications in their physician’s letter documenting their medical their medical documenting physician’s letter necessity. Association for Medical Travellers Advice to www.iamat.org) training. with recognised find a doctor letter signed and dated A labelled, containers. your med- from your physician describing including ical conditions and medications, If car- names, is also a good idea. generic a to have or needles, be sure rying syringes Dr Caroline Evans It’s tempting to leave it all to the last minute – it all to the last minute to leave It’s tempting Before You Go Before 687 Insurance Recommended Vaccinations Resources Internet Reading Further In Turkey Care & Cost of Health Availability 687 Diseases Infectious Diarrhoea Traveller’s Environmental Hazards 686 687 with Children Travelling Women’s Health 687 687 688 689 689 687 690 690

Prevention is the key to staying healthy while healthy to staying is the key Prevention A little planning before departure, particu- departure, before A little planning you illnesses, will save larly for pre-existing See your dentist be- trouble later. a lot of contact pair of a long trip; carry a spare fore lenses and glasses your optical (and take with you); and carry a first-aid prescription kit with you. immunity vaccines don’t ensure don’t! Many so visit a given, until two weeks are they after departure. doctor four to eight weeks before Certifi- your doctor for an International Ask (otherwise known as the Vaccination of cate will list all the vaccin- yellow booklet), which This is mandatory for received. ations you’ve yellow fever of proof countries that require vaccination upon entry, but it’s a good idea you travel. to carry it wherever Health CONTENTS diseases Infectious can in Turkey. travelling usu- but they are and do occur in Turkey, with poor living conditions ally associated with a few can be avoided and and poverty, for The most common reason precautions. needing medical help is as a result travellers not always well main- are – cars accidents of with littered tained, and poorly lit roads are facilities can be excellent potholes. Medical they may areas cities, but in remoter in large basic. be more BEFORE YOU GO © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © 686 HEALTH HEALTH 688 IN TURKEY •• Infectious Diseases lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com IN TURKEY •• Traveller’s Diarrhoea 689

especially as the disease is endemic in Turkey. weeks after a bite by an infected mosquito. The first symptom is usually fever or a pink AVIAN INFLUENZA (Many countries now give hepatitis B vaccina- The illness can start while you are taking pre- rash on the abdomen. Septicaemia (blood The H5N1 avian influenza virus was con- tion as part of routine childhood vaccination.) ventative tablets if they are not fully effective, poisoning) may also occur. Typhoid vaccine firmed in Turkey in late 2005 and there The vaccine is given singly, or at the same and may also occur after you have finished (typhim Vi, typherix) will give protection for were four fatalities, the last in early 2006. time as the hepatitis A vaccine (hepatyrix). taking your tablets. three years. In some countries, the oral vac- All fatalities were linked with ongoing close A course will give protection for at least five cine Vivotif is also available. contact with birds. The risk to humans is years. It can be given over four weeks or six Poliomyelitis considered very low unless the virus devel- months. Generally, poliomyelitis is spread through Yellow Fever ops the ability to spread sustainably and contaminated food and water. It is one of the Yellow fever vaccination is not required efficiently between humans. For the latest HIV vaccines given in childhood and should be for any areas of the Middle East; however, outbreak news and general information HIV is spread via infected blood and blood boosted every 10 years, either orally (a drop any travellers coming from a yellow-fever- log on to the World Health Organization products, sexual intercourse with an infected on the tongue) or as an injection. Polio may be endemic area will need to show proof of vac- (www.who.int). partner and from an infected mother to her carried asymptomatically, although it can cause cination against yellow fever before entry to newborn child. It can be spread through a transient fever and, in rare cases, potentially the Middle East – this normally means if a ‘blood to blood’ contacts such as contam- permanent muscle weakness or paralysis. traveller is arriving directly from an infected For minor illnesses, such as diarrhoea, inated instruments during medical, dental, country or has been in an infected country pharmacists can often provide advice and acupuncture and other body-piercing proce- Rabies during the previous 10 days. sell over-the-counter medication, including dures and sharing used intravenous needles. Spread through bites or licks on broken skin The yellow-fever vaccination must be drugs that would require a prescription in from an infected animal, rabies is fatal. Ani- given at a designated clinic, and is valid for your home country. They can also advise Leishmaniasis mal handlers should be vaccinated, as should 10 years. It is a live vaccine and must not be when more specialised help is needed. Spread through the bite of an infected sandfly, those travelling to remote areas where a reli- given to immunocompromised or pregnant leishmaniasis can cause a slowly growing skin able source of post-bite vaccine is not available travellers. INFECTIOUS DISEASES lump or ulcer. It may develop into a serious, within 24 hours. Three injections are needed Diphtheria life-threatening fever usually accompanied over a month. If you have not been vaccinated TRAVELLER’S DIARRHOEA

Diphtheria is spread through close respiratory by anaemia and weight loss. Infected dogs and you suffer a bite, you will need a course To prevent diarrhoea, avoid tap water unless HEALTH contact. It causes a high temperature and are also carriers of the infection. Sandfly bites of five injections starting within 24 hours or it has been boiled, filtered or chemically dis- severe sore throat. Sometimes a membrane should be avoided whenever possible. as soon as possible after the injury. Vaccin- infected (with iodine tablets). Eat only fresh

HEALTH HEALTH forms across the throat requiring a tracheos- ation does not provide you with immunity, it fruits or vegetables if they’re cooked or if you tomy to prevent suffocation. Vaccination is Leptospirosis merely buys you more time to seek appropri- have peeled them yourself, and avoid dairy recommended for those likely to be in close Leptospirosis is spread through the excreta of ate medical help. products that might contain unpasteurised contact with the local population in infected infected rodents, especially rats. It can cause milk. Buffet meals are risky since food may areas. The vaccine is given as an injection hepatitis and renal failure that may be fatal. It Tuberculosis not be kept hot enough; meals freshly cooked alone, or with tetanus, and lasts 10 years. is unusual for travellers to be affected unless Tuberculosis (TB) is spread through close in front of you in a busy restaurant are more living in poor sanitary conditions. It causes a respiratory contact and occasionally through likely to be safe. Hepatitis A fever and jaundice. infected milk or milk products. BCG vaccine If you develop diarrhoea, be sure to drink Hepatitis A is spread through contaminated is recommended for those likely to be mix- plenty of fluids, preferably an oral rehydration food (particularly shellfish) and water. It Malaria ing closely with the local population. It is solution containing lots of salt and sugar. A causes jaundice, and although it is rarely fatal You stand the greatest chance of contracting more important for those visiting family or few loose stools don’t require treatment, but it can cause prolonged lethargy and delayed malaria if you travel in southeastern Turkey. planning on a long stay, and those employed if you start having more than four or five recovery. Symptoms include dark urine, a yel- The risk of malaria is minimal in most cities, as teachers and health-care workers. TB can motions a day, you should start taking an low colour to the whites of the eyes, fever and but you should check with your doctor if you be asymptomatic, although symptoms can antibiotic (usually a quinolone drug) and an abdominal pain. Hepatitis A vaccine (Avaxim, are considering travelling to any rural areas. include a cough, weight loss or fever months antidiarrhoeal agent (such as loperamide). If VAQTA, Havrix) is given as an injection: a It is important to take antimalarial tablets if or even years after exposure. An X-ray is the diarrhoea is bloody, persists for more than single dose will give protection for up to a year the risk is significant. For up-to-date informa- best way to confirm if you have TB. BCG 72 hours or is accompanied by fever, shaking while a booster 12 months later will provide a tion about the risk of contracting malaria in gives a moderate degree of protection against chills or severe abdominal pain, you should subsequent 10 years of protection. Hepatitis a specific country, contact your local travel TB. It causes a small permanent scar at the seek medical attention. A and typhoid vaccines can also be given as a health clinic. site of injection, and is usually only given in single-dose vaccine (hepatyrix or viatim). If you’re travelling in southeastern Turkey specialised chest clinics. As it’s a live vaccine ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS it’s as well to be aware of the symptoms of ma- it should not be given to pregnant women or Heat Illness Hepatitis B laria. It is possible to contract malaria from a immunocompromised individuals. The BCG Heat exhaustion occurs following heavy Infected blood, contaminated needles and single bite from an infected mosquito. Malaria vaccine is not available in all countries. sweating and excessive fluid loss with inad- sexual intercourse can all transmit hepatitis almost always starts with marked shivering, equate replacement of fluids and salt. This is B. It can cause jaundice and affects the liver, fever and sweating. Muscle pain, headache Typhoid particularly common in hot climates when occasionally causing liver failure. All travel- and vomiting are common. Symptoms may This is spread through food or water that has taking unaccustomed exercise before full ac- lers should make this a routine vaccination, occur anywhere from a few days to three been contaminated by infected human faeces. climatisation. Symptoms include headache, 688 IN TURKEY •• Infectious Diseases lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com IN TURKEY •• Traveller’s Diarrhoea 689 especially as the disease is endemic in Turkey. weeks after a bite by an infected mosquito. The first symptom is usually fever or a pink AVIAN INFLUENZA (Many countries now give hepatitis B vaccina- The illness can start while you are taking pre- rash on the abdomen. Septicaemia (blood The H5N1 avian influenza virus was con- tion as part of routine childhood vaccination.) ventative tablets if they are not fully effective, poisoning) may also occur. Typhoid vaccine firmed in Turkey in late 2005 and there The vaccine is given singly, or at the same and may also occur after you have finished (typhim Vi, typherix) will give protection for were four fatalities, the last in early 2006. time as the hepatitis A vaccine (hepatyrix). taking your tablets. three years. In some countries, the oral vac- All fatalities were linked with ongoing close A course will give protection for at least five cine Vivotif is also available. contact with birds. The risk to humans is years. It can be given over four weeks or six Poliomyelitis considered very low unless the virus devel- months. Generally, poliomyelitis is spread through Yellow Fever ops the ability to spread sustainably and contaminated food and water. It is one of the Yellow fever vaccination is not required efficiently between humans. For the latest HIV vaccines given in childhood and should be for any areas of the Middle East; however, outbreak news and general information HIV is spread via infected blood and blood boosted every 10 years, either orally (a drop any travellers coming from a yellow-fever- log on to the World Health Organization products, sexual intercourse with an infected on the tongue) or as an injection. Polio may be endemic area will need to show proof of vac- (www.who.int). partner and from an infected mother to her carried asymptomatically, although it can cause cination against yellow fever before entry to newborn child. It can be spread through a transient fever and, in rare cases, potentially the Middle East – this normally means if a ‘blood to blood’ contacts such as contam- permanent muscle weakness or paralysis. traveller is arriving directly from an infected For minor illnesses, such as diarrhoea, inated instruments during medical, dental, country or has been in an infected country pharmacists can often provide advice and acupuncture and other body-piercing proce- Rabies during the previous 10 days. sell over-the-counter medication, including dures and sharing used intravenous needles. Spread through bites or licks on broken skin The yellow-fever vaccination must be drugs that would require a prescription in from an infected animal, rabies is fatal. Ani- given at a designated clinic, and is valid for your home country. They can also advise Leishmaniasis mal handlers should be vaccinated, as should 10 years. It is a live vaccine and must not be when more specialised help is needed. Spread through the bite of an infected sandfly, those travelling to remote areas where a reli- given to immunocompromised or pregnant leishmaniasis can cause a slowly growing skin able source of post-bite vaccine is not available travellers. INFECTIOUS DISEASES lump or ulcer. It may develop into a serious, within 24 hours. Three injections are needed Diphtheria life-threatening fever usually accompanied over a month. If you have not been vaccinated TRAVELLER’S DIARRHOEA

dizziness and tiredness. Dehydration is al- victim to medical help as soon as possible so to the risk of pregnancy. Remember to take and in the later stages long-haul flights can ready happening by the time you feel thirsty – that antivenin can be given if necessary. condoms with you just in case. Condoms be very uncomfortable. Antenatal facili- aim to drink sufficient water such that you should be kept in a cool, dry place or they ties vary greatly in Turkey and you should produce pale, diluted urine. The treatment of Water may crack and perish. think carefully before travelling in out-of- heat exhaustion consists of fluid replacement It’s probably not wise to drink Turkey’s tap Emergency contraception is most effective the-way places, bearing in mind the cultural with water, fruit juice, or both, and cooling water if you’re only here on a short visit. Stick if taken within 24 hours after unprotected sex; and linguistic difficulties, not to mention by cold water and fans. The treatment of the to bottled water, boil water for 10 minutes or ask at a pharmacy for the ertesi gün hapı (the poor medic al standards you might face if salt-loss component consists of consuming use water-purification tablets or a filter. Do morning-after pill). The International Planned anything goes wrong. Take written records of salty fluids such as soup or broth, and adding not drink water from rivers or lakes since it Parent Federation (www.ippf.org) can advise you the pregnancy, including details of your blood a little more table salt to foods than usual. may contain bacteria or viruses that can cause about the availability of contraception in group, which is likely to be helpful if you need Heat stroke is much more serious. This diarrhoea or vomiting. Turkey and other countries. Sanitary pads medic al attention while away (in Turkey you occurs when the body’s heat-regulating are fairly readily available in the country, have to pay for blood infusions unless a friend mechanism breaks down. An excessive rise TRAVELLING WITH CHILDREN but tampons are not always available outside supplies the blood for you). Ensure your in- in body temperature leads to sweating ceas- All travellers with children should know how major cities and are expensive – bring your surance policy covers birth and postnatal care, ing, irrational and hyperactive behaviour, and to treat minor ailments and when to seek own from home. but remember that insurance policies are only eventually loss of consciousness and death. medical treatment. Make sure children are Travelling during pregnancy is usually as good as the facilities available. Rapid cooling by spraying the body with water up to date with routine vaccinations, and possible, but there are important things to If you are pregnant or breastfeeding it and fanning is an ideal treatment. Emergency discuss possible travel vaccines well before consider. Have a medical check-up before always pays to double-check the drug and fluid and electrolyte replacement by intrave- departure as some vaccines are not suitable for embarking on your trip. The most risky times dosage you have been prescribed by doctors nous drip is usually also required. children aged under one year. You may want for travel are during the first 12 weeks of or pharmacists in Turkey. The appropriate- to consider giving children the BCG vaccine pregnancy, when miscarriage is most likely, ness of some drugs and correct dosage for Insect Bites & Stings for tuberculosis (TB) if they haven’t already and after 30 weeks, when complications such pregnant or lactating women is sometimes Even if mosquitoes do not carry malaria, they had it – see p689 for more information. as high blood pressure and premature deliv- overlooked. You can use the earlier websites can cause irritation and infected bites. Using In hot, moist climates any wound or break ery can occur. Most airlines will not accept a (p687 ) to check the generic drug and its rec-

DEET-based insect repellents will prevent in the skin may lead to infection. The area traveller after 28 to 32 weeks of pregnancy, ommended dosage. HEALTH bites. Mosquitoes also spread dengue fever. should be cleaned and then kept dry and There is a risk of bee stings along the clean. Remember to avoid contaminated food

HEALTH HEALTH Aegean and Mediterranean coastal areas. Bees and water. If your child is vomiting or experi- and wasps only cause real problems for those encing diarrhoea, lost fluid and salts must be with a severe allergy (anaphylaxis). If you replaced. It may be helpful to take rehydration have a severe allergy to bee or wasp stings you powders for reconstituting with boiled water. should carry an adrenaline injection or some- Ask your doctor about this. thing similar. There is a particularly higher Children should be encouraged to avoid risk of bee stings in the area around Marmaris dogs or other mammals because of the risk in southwest Turkey. of rabies and other diseases. Any bite, scratch Sandflies are located around the Mediterra- or lick from a warm-blooded, furry animal nean beaches. They usually only cause a nasty, should immediately be thoroughly cleaned. itchy bite, but can carry a rare skin disorder If there is any possibility that the animal is called cutaneous leishmaniasis (p688 ); use a infected with rabies, seek immediate medical DEET-based repellents to avoid bites. assistance. Scorpions are frequently found in arid or It always pays to double-check the drug dry climates. Turkey’s small white scorpions and dosage your child has been prescribed by can give a painful bite which will bother you doctors or pharmacists in Turkey as they may for up to 24 hours, but they won’t kill you. be unsuitable for children. Some information on the suitability of drugs and recommended Snake Bites dosage can be found on the websites listed Do not walk barefoot or stick your hand on p687 . into holes or cracks. If bitten by a snake, do not panic. Half of those bitten by venomous WOMEN’S HEALTH snakes are not actually injected with poison Emotional stress, exhaustion and travelling (envenomed). Immobilise the bitten limb with through different time zones can all contrib- a splint (eg a stick) and apply a bandage over ute to an upset in the menstrual pattern. If the site, with firm pressure, similar to apply- you’re using oral contraceptives, remember ing a bandage over a sprain. Do not apply a that some antibiotics, diarrhoea and vomit- tourniquet, or cut or suck the bite. Get the ing can stop the pill from working and lead © Lonely Planet Publications 690 IN TURKEY •• Travelling with Children lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com IN TURKEY •• Women’s Health 691 dizziness and tiredness. Dehydration is al- victim to medical help as soon as possible so to the risk of pregnancy. Remember to take and in the later stages long-haul flights can ready happening by the time you feel thirsty – that antivenin can be given if necessary. condoms with you just in case. Condoms be very uncomfortable. Antenatal facili- aim to drink sufficient water such that you should be kept in a cool, dry place or they ties vary greatly in Turkey and you should produce pale, diluted urine. The treatment of Water may crack and perish. think carefully before travelling in out-of- heat exhaustion consists of fluid replacement It’s probably not wise to drink Turkey’s tap Emergency contraception is most effective the-way places, bearing in mind the cultural with water, fruit juice, or both, and cooling water if you’re only here on a short visit. Stick if taken within 24 hours after unprotected sex; and linguistic difficulties, not to mention by cold water and fans. The treatment of the to bottled water, boil water for 10 minutes or ask at a pharmacy for the ertesi gün hapı (the poor medic al standards you might face if salt-loss component consists of consuming use water-purification tablets or a filter. Do morning-after pill). The International Planned anything goes wrong. Take written records of salty fluids such as soup or broth, and adding not drink water from rivers or lakes since it Parent Federation (www.ippf.org) can advise you the pregnancy, including details of your blood a little more table salt to foods than usual. may contain bacteria or viruses that can cause about the availability of contraception in group, which is likely to be helpful if you need Heat stroke is much more serious. This diarrhoea or vomiting. Turkey and other countries. Sanitary pads medic al attention while away (in Turkey you occurs when the body’s heat-regulating are fairly readily available in the country, have to pay for blood infusions unless a friend mechanism breaks down. An excessive rise TRAVELLING WITH CHILDREN but tampons are not always available outside supplies the blood for you). Ensure your in- in body temperature leads to sweating ceas- All travellers with children should know how major cities and are expensive – bring your surance policy covers birth and postnatal care, ing, irrational and hyperactive behaviour, and to treat minor ailments and when to seek own from home. but remember that insurance policies are only eventually loss of consciousness and death. medical treatment. Make sure children are Travelling during pregnancy is usually as good as the facilities available. Rapid cooling by spraying the body with water up to date with routine vaccinations, and possible, but there are important things to If you are pregnant or breastfeeding it and fanning is an ideal treatment. Emergency discuss possible travel vaccines well before consider. Have a medical check-up before always pays to double-check the drug and fluid and electrolyte replacement by intrave- departure as some vaccines are not suitable for embarking on your trip. The most risky times dosage you have been prescribed by doctors nous drip is usually also required. children aged under one year. You may want for travel are during the first 12 weeks of or pharmacists in Turkey. The appropriate- to consider giving children the BCG vaccine pregnancy, when miscarriage is most likely, ness of some drugs and correct dosage for Insect Bites & Stings for tuberculosis (TB) if they haven’t already and after 30 weeks, when complications such pregnant or lactating women is sometimes Even if mosquitoes do not carry malaria, they had it – see p689 for more information. as high blood pressure and premature deliv- overlooked. You can use the earlier websites can cause irritation and infected bites. Using In hot, moist climates any wound or break ery can occur. Most airlines will not accept a (p687 ) to check the generic drug and its rec-

‘Are you (water), ı kla- sounds distinctly– understood ifyoudon’tpronouncethetwo these asanEnglish‘i’,butyoucanbemis- or ‘frequent’but cases (like o late’. Thesamecareshouldbetaken with wordmeaning‘tocopu- lent ofacertain‘f’ (like I ı rately. Becarefulofthesymbols you needtopronouncebothsyllablessepa- you seeadoublevowel,suchas erally shorterandslightlyharsher.When in English,althoughTurkishthey’regen- Most Turkishvowelsoundscanbefound Vowels so you’llbeunderstoodwhereveryougo. chapter isbasedonstandardpronunciation different partsofTurkey,butthislanguage hear somevariationinpronunciation very similartoonesyoualreadyuse.You’ll English speakersasitusessoundsthatare Pronouncing Turkishisprettysimplefor PRONUNCIATION class.com andwww.practicalturkish.com. out theexcellentwebsiteswww.turkish Phrasebook language guidegetLonelyPlanet’s courses, seep654,andforacomprehensive menus. Formoreinformationonlanguage help youcomprehendsigns,schedulesand who speaksEnglish,butafewhintswill usually havelittletroublefindingsomeone learn atfirst,despiteitselegantlogic. lianise?’ Thismakesitsomewhatdifficultto one ofthosewhomwecouldnotAustra- a TURKISH PRONUNCIATION GUIDE ö o i ı ey e ay isundottedinbothloweranduppercase

/ ö In largercitiesandtouristareasyou'll and ğ rid u / ü ı er o ee uh ay e ai a . r), whilethe İ . Youmayalsowanttocheck zmir). It’seasytoreadbothof as in‘her’ withno‘r’sound as in‘go’ as in‘bee’ as the‘a’in‘ago’ as in‘say’ as in‘red’ as in‘aisle’ as in‘father’ sik s istheTurkishequiva- ı k means‘dense’,‘tight’ i hasdotsinboth ı saat and Turkish (hour) i –the on thesecondsyllable(eg in three-syllablenamesthestress is usually and nounced likeEnglish‘j’, couple ofexceptions.TheTurkish their Englishcounterparts,buttherearea Most Turkishconsonantssoundthesameas Consonants u www.lonelyplanet.com misafirhane guesthouse ne camping ground Nerede ...bulabilirim? canIfinda...? Where ACCOMMODATION K word. Mosttwo-syllableplacenames (eg generally fallsonthelastsyllableof Word stressisquitelightinTurkish,and Word Stress b TURKISH PRONUNCIATION GUIDE ü z y v t ş s r p n m l k j h g f d ç c letter in ‘weigh’,andisneverpronounced.The before it–actslikethe‘gh’combination The silent, soalwayspronounceitasin‘house’. than theEnglishsound.

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ew oo z y v t sh s r p n m l k zh h g f d ch j b like ‘ee’withroundedlips as in‘moon’ as in‘zoo’ as in‘you’ as in‘van’butsofter as in‘tin’ as in‘ship’ as in‘sea’ a strong,rolled‘r’ as in‘pig’ as in‘no’ as in‘man’ as in‘loud’ as in‘kilo’ as the‘s’in‘pleasure’ as in‘house’ as in‘go’ as in‘fun’ in as‘day’ as in‘church’ as in‘jam’ as in‘big’ mee· kamp ye· ·re·de ...boo· sa ç islikeEnglish‘c’ ·feer·ha·ne İ v stanbul). ree isalittlesofter la ·bee·lee·reem h c isnever ispro- lewt ... o·da· dormitory room Çift yatakl twinroom double room Tek ki single room ... odan a...? Do youhave Lütfenyazarm itdown,please? Could youwrite Adresi nedir? What’s theaddress? Ucuzbiryertavsiyeedebilirmisiniz? cheap? somewhere yourecommend Can pension gençlik hosteli youth hostel otel hotel ad·re· oo· ev pansiyonu pansiyon Yatakhane home) pension (inaprivate İ ... a·yurt·

Please confirmavailabilityandprice. From (2July)to(6July). ... ay tobook... I’d like expiry date number card credit of ... in thename Date From ... To ... (for writtenandphoneinquiries) MAKING ARESERVATION

ki lewt Lütfen fiyat (ee· (2 Temmuz’dan)(6Temmuz’a)kadar. jooz

·fen ya· te· ş ı nuz ilik ş z varm see ne Tarih

kee ilik yeet ·fen fee·ya· beeryertav·see· ı rtmak istiyorumlütfen. varmuh

tem·mooz· ı LANGUAGE ••Accommodation

e· zar mak ·deer kredi kart ı der ?

ı vemalmevcudiyetiniteyit ı muh·suh· s ees· mee·see· ı n ı tuh z? ... ad Gönderen ... Al tee dan vemalmev·joo·dee·ye·tee· son kullanma numara ı c tarihi ı ·yo·room ... ye ı nuhz ta·reeh ) (al· cheeft ya·tak· ee· tek kee·shee· ya·tak· neez na

e· gench· o· ev pan·see·yo· pan·see· kee

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ha tem·moo· lewt leek

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693

LANGUAGE LANGUAGE with onlyoneirregularnoun, logical, systematicandexpressivelanguage ing ittoits‘authentic’roots.Theresultisa of ArabicandPersianborrowings,return- language reformprocesstopurgeTurkish correct pronunciation.Healsoinstituteda that wasbettersuitedtoeasylearningand script andadoptedaLatin-basedalphabet jiang inChina. another, fromBelgradeallthewaytoXin- people whospeakTurkish,inoneformor own uniquelanguagegroup.Youcanfind guages arenowseenascomprisingtheir Finnish andHungarian,theTurkiclan- and Kazakh.Althoughdistantlyrelatedto lesser-known tonguessuchasAzeri,Kirghiz Turkic languagegroup,whichalsoincludes Turkish isthedominant language inthe one irregularverb, scary example is ing affixesarejoined toarootword–one Words areformed byagglutination,mean- in Indo-European languageslikeEnglish. ish areverydifferentfromwhatyou’ll find international language. ment ofEsperanto,anill-fated artificial grammar formedthebasisfor develop- genders. It’ssological,infact,that Turkish r CONTENTS Language 692 © LonelyPlanetPublications ı m In 1928, Atatürk did awaywithArabic Word orderandverbformationin Turk- ie&Dts 696 697 696 696 695 Travel WithChildren 696 Transport Time &Dates Shopping &Services Question Words Paperwork 695 694 Numbers 695 Language Difficulties Emergencies 695 Health 694 Directions 694 Conversation &Essentials Accommodation 693 Pronunciation 692 ı zdanm ı s ı n ı z? Avustralyal , which means olmek (tobe)andno ı la ş t ı su ramad

/ ö In largercitiesandtouristareasyou'll and ğ rid u / ü ı er o ee uh ay e ai a . r), whilethe İ . Youmayalsowanttocheck zmir). It’seasytoreadbothof as in‘her’ withno‘r’sound as in‘go’ as in‘bee’ as the‘a’in‘ago’ as in‘say’ as in‘red’ as in‘aisle’ as in‘father’ sik s istheTurkishequiva- ı k means‘dense’,‘tight’ i hasdotsinboth ı saat and Turkish (hour) i –the on thesecondsyllable(eg in three-syllablenamesthestress is usually and nounced likeEnglish‘j’, couple ofexceptions.TheTurkish their Englishcounterparts,buttherearea Most Turkishconsonantssoundthesameas Consonants u www.lonelyplanet.com misafirhane guesthouse ne camping ground Nerede ...bulabilirim? canIfinda...? Where ACCOMMODATION K word. Mosttwo-syllableplacenames (eg generally fallsonthelastsyllableof Word stressisquitelightinTurkish,and Word Stress b TURKISH PRONUNCIATION GUIDE ü z y v t ş s r p n m l k j h g f d ç c than theEnglishsound. letter in ‘weigh’,andisneverpronounced.The before it–actslikethe‘gh’combination The silent, soalwayspronounceitasin‘house’.

apyr kamp yeri ı br ş ğ ı islikeEnglish‘sh’.Theletter s) arestressedonthefirstsyllable, and isasilentletterthatextendsthevowel r isalwaysrolledand

ki lewt Lütfen fiyat (ee· (2 Temmuz’dan)(6Temmuz’a)kadar. jooz

·fen ya· te· ş ı nuz ilik ş z varm see ne Tarih

kee ilik yeet ·fen fee·ya· beeryertav·see· ı rtmak istiyorumlütfen. varmuh

tem·mooz· ı LANGUAGE ••Accommodation

e· zar mak ·deer kredi kart ı der ?

e· gench· o· ev pan·see·yo· pan·see· kee

tel de ı

tuh ·bee·leer mee·see· kee·shee·

ha tem·moo· lewt leek

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693

LANGUAGE LANGUAGE

Güle güle. Sa Turn right. Sola dön. Turn left. Tam kar It’s straightahead. ...nerede? is...? Where Bana (haritada) youshowme(onthemap)? Can DIRECTIONS ...sevmiyorum. ... I don’tlike ... seviyorum. ne ... I like Ben ... I’m from... Nerelisiniz? youfrom? are Where Benim ad My nameis... Ad What’s yourname? Özür dilerim. Sorry. Bakar m Excuse me. Bir welcome. You’re you. Thank Please. Hay No. Yes. Ho Goodbye. Hello. CONVERSATION &ESSENTIALS I’m leavingnow. Banyo/Tuvalet ban· nerede? thebathroom/toilet? Where’s Görebilir miyim? Iseeit? May Geceli How muchisitpernight/person? 694 Te Lütfen. Evet. Merhaba. mer Ş imdi ayr ötrblrmsn gösterebilir misin? ekdr ne kadar? ş ğ ı ş ş LANGUAGE ••Conversation&Essentials ekkür ederim. n a dön. çakal. ey de ı r. ı

z nedir? ğ

i/Ki ş ı ğ s ı so· ı ı da. ı

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695 LANGUAGE LANGUAGE

z nedir? ğ

i/Ki ş ı ğ s ı so· ı ı da. ı

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Toilets/WC Full(NoVacancies) Town Centre No Smoking kar yak uzak önünde arkas ı

ş ı n ı s ı ı ı nda nda nda boo·ra· do· ker·she· ees·ha· kon an·tee·sep· has· tra·

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lewt an· İ ngilizce bilenvarm

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695 LANGUAGE LANGUAGE tvlt tuvalet public toilet public phone post office police market hospital ... embassy bank a/the ...? Where’s bigger smaller less more Seyahat çeki travellers cheques Kredi kart credit cards ... ka· ... kabulediyormusunuz? Do youaccept...? Tutuyorum. it. I’ll take Buçokpahal It’s tooexpensive. Kalitesiiyide qualityisn’tgood. The Sadece bak ne I’m justlooking. Bakabilir miyim? Ilookatit? May Ne kadar? How muchisit? ...almakistiyorum. tobuy... I’d like SHOPPING &SERVICES How? Which? Where? When? What? Who? QUESTION WORDS visa surname passport sex/gender place ofbirth 696

vize vee LANGUAGE ••QuestionWords bool daha fazla Banka Polis e· pasaport Pazar yeri Hastane ı dee kre· ı yorum. Postane se·ya· ı ğ . ·yor do Umumi il. Telefon

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ı ş

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LANGUAGE LANGUAGE tvlt tuvalet public toilet public phone post office police market hospital ... embassy bank a/the ...? Where’s bigger smaller less more Seyahat çeki travellers cheques Kredi kart credit cards ... ka· ... kabulediyormusunuz? Do youaccept...? Tutuyorum. it. I’ll take Buçokpahal It’s tooexpensive. Kalitesiiyide qualityisn’tgood. The Sadece bak ne I’m justlooking. Bakabilir miyim? Ilookatit? May Ne kadar? How muchisit? ...almakistiyorum. tobuy... I’d like SHOPPING &SERVICES How? Which? Where? When? What? Who? QUESTION WORDS visa surname passport sex/gender place ofbirth 696

vize vee LANGUAGE ••QuestionWords bool daha fazla Banka Polis e· pasaport Pazar yeri Hastane ı dee kre· ı yorum. Postane se·ya· ı ğ . ·yor do Umumi il. Telefon

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kahvaltı salonu – breakfast room otoyol – motorway, limited-access divided highway Karagöz – shadow-puppet theatre Ottoman – of or pertaining to the Ottoman Empire Glossary kaya – cave which lasted from the end of the 13th century to the end kazı – archaeological excavations of WWI KDV – katma değer vergisi, Turkey’s value-added tax See p74 in the Food & Drink chapter for dere(si) – stream kebapçı – place selling kebaps pansiyon – pension, B&B, guesthouse useful words and phrases dealing with dervish – member of Mevlevi Muslim brotherhood kervansaray(ı) – Turkish for caravanserai pastane – pastry shop (patisserie); also pastahane food and dining. See the Language chapter dolmuş – shared taxi; can be a minibus or sedan keyif – relaxation, refined to a fine art in Turkey pazar(ı) – weekly market, bazaar (p692 ) for other useful words and phrases. döviz (burosu) – currency exchange (office) kilim – flat-weave rug peribacalar – fairy chimneys kilise(si) – church peron – gate (at the otogar); platform (train station) acropolis – hilltop citadel and temples of a classical emanet(çi) – left-luggage (baggage check) office köfteci – köfte-maker or -seller peştimal – hamam cloth Hellenic city emir – Turkish tribal chieftain konak, konağı – mansion, government headquarters petrol ofisi – petrol station ada(sı) – island eski – old (thing, not person) köprü(sü) – bridge pideci – pide-maker or -seller agora – open space for commerce and politics in a ev pansiyonu – private home that rents rooms to köşk(ü) – pavilion, villa PTT – Posta, Telefon, Telegraf; post, telephone and Graeco-Roman city travellers köy(ü) – village telegraph office aile salonu – family dining room, for couples, families eyvan – vaulted hall opening into a central court in a kule(si) – tower and single women in a Turkish restaurant medrese or mosque külliye(si) – mosque complex including seminary, Ramazan – Islamic holy month of fasting Anatolia – the Asian part of Turkey; also called Asia Minor ezan – the Muslim call to prayer hospital and soup kitchen arabesk – Arabic-style Turkish music kümbet – vault, cupola, dome; tomb topped by this saat kulesi – clock tower arasta – row of shops near a mosque, the rent from fasıl – Ottoman classical music, usually played by gypsies küşet(li) – couchette(s), or shelf-like beds, in a six-person şadırvan – fountain where Muslims perform ritual which supports the mosque feribot – ferry train compartment ablutions Asia Minor – see Anatolia samovar – tea urn GAP – South-East Anatolia Project, a mammoth liman(ı) – harbour saray(ı) – palace bahçe(si) – garden hydroelectric and irrigation project lise – high school sarcophagus – a stone or marble coffin or tomb, banliyö treni – suburban train lines gazino – Turkish nightclub, not a gambling den lokanta – restaurant especially one with inscription baraj – dam geçit, -di – (mountain) pass sebil – public fountain or water kiosk bedesten – vaulted, fireproof market enclosure where gişe – ticket booth mağara(sı) – cave sedir – bench seating that doubled as a bed in Ottoman valuable goods are kept göl(ü) – lake mahalle(si) – neighbourhood, district of a city houses belediye (sarayı) – municipal council, town hall gület – traditional Turkish wooden yacht medrese(si) – Islamic theological seminary or school, şehir – city; municipality bey – polite form of address for a man; follows the name attached to a mosque şehir merkezi – city centre birahane – beer hall hamam(ı) – Turkish bathhouse mescit, -di – prayer room, small mosque selamlık – public/male quarters of a residence (see also bouleuterion – place of assembly, council meeting place han(ı) – caravanserai Mevlâna – also known as Celaleddin Rumi, a great mystic haremlik) in a classical Hellenic city hanım – polite form of address for a woman and poet (1207–73), founder of the Mevlevi whirling Seljuk – of or pertaining to the Seljuk Turks, the first büfe – snack bar haremlik – family/women’s quarters of a residence; see dervish order Turkish state to rule Anatolia from the 11th to 13th bulvar(ı) – often abbreviated to ‘bul’; boulevard or also selamlık meydan(ı) – public square, open place centuries avenue heykel – statue meyhane – tavern, wine shop sema – dervish ceremony hisar(ı) – fortress or citadel mihrab – niche in a mosque indicating the direction of serander – granary cadde(si) – often abbreviated to ‘cad’; street Hittites – nation of people inhabiting Anatolia during Mecca servis – shuttle minibus service to and from the otogar cami(i) – mosque 2nd millennium BC milli parkı – national park sinema – cinema caravanserai – large fortified way-station for (trade) hükümet konağı – government house, provincial mimber – pulpit in a mosque sokak, sokağı – often abbreviated to ‘sk’; street or caravans government headquarters minare(si) – minaret, tower from which Muslims are lane çarşı(sı) – market, bazaar; sometimes town centre called to prayer Sufi – Muslim mystic, member of a mystic (dervish) çay bahçesi – tea garden ilkokul – primary school müezzin – cantor who sings the ezan, or call to prayer brotherhood çayhane – teahouse imam – prayer leader, Muslim cleric müze(si) – museum çayı – stream imaret(i) – soup kitchen for the poor, usually attached tabiat parkı – nature park çeşme – spring, fountain to a medrese nargileh – traditional water pipe (for smoking); hookah tavla – backgammon cicim – embroidered rug işhanı – office building necropolis – city of the dead, cemetery TC – Türkiye Cumhuriyeti (Turkish Republic); designates an Cilician Gates – a pass in the Taurus Mountains in iskele(si) – jetty, quay official office or organisation southern Turkey oda(sı) – room TCDD – Turkish State Railways GLOSSARY jandarma – gendarme, paramilitary police force/officer odeon – odeum, small classical theatre for musical Tekel – government alcoholic beverage and tobacco dağ(ı) – mountain jeton – transport token performances company damsız girilmez – sign meaning that men unaccompanied örenyeri – ruins tekke(si) – dervish lodge

GLOSSARY by a woman will not be admitted kale(si) – fortress, citadel ortaokul – secondary school TEM – Trans-European Motorway deniz – sea kapı(sı) – door, gate otobus – bus tersane – shipyard deniz otobüsü – literally ‘seabus’; hydrofoil or catamaran kaplıca – thermal spring or baths otogar – bus station THY – Türk Hava Yolları, Turkish Airlines © Lonely Planet Publications 698 GLOSSARY 699

TML – Turkish Maritime Lines vilayet, valilik, valiliği – provincial government tramvay – tram headquarters TRT – Türkiye Radyo ve Televizyon, Turkish broadcasting corporation yalı – grand waterside residence tuff, tufa – soft stone laid down as volcanic ash yarım pansiyon – half-pension, ie breakfast and dinner tuğra – sultan’s monogram, imperial signature included türbe(si) – tomb, grave, mausoleum yayla – highland pastures yeni – new valide sultan – mother of the reigning sultan yol(u) – road, way vezir – vizier (minister) in the Ottoman government yüzyıl – century

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