MAY 2014

Japan’s number one English language magazine

UNSUNG ISLANDS The history & scenery of Iki and Tsushima

GODZILLA A look at the behemoth’s cinematic past

PAGING DR. NAKAMATS Inside the mind of ’s most prolific inventor

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GODZILLA Taking a look back at Japan’s iconic beast Still from 三大怪獣 地球最大の決戦 [６０周年記念版] (Three Giant Monsters: Earth’s Great- est Battle, 60th Ann. ed.) | Copyright Notice: 1964 TOHO CO.,LTD. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. on his return to the big screen | Price of the DVD: 2,500 yen + tax | Manufactured & Distributed by TOHO. CO., LTD 6 14 16

DR. NAKAMATSU GOURMET TOKYO IKI AND TSUSHIMA Insights from one of the most prolific Enjoy some of Tokyo’s top eats and A journey through the landscape and lore of inventors of all time cuisine with a twist two lesser-known Nagasaki islands

8 S.T. Dupont 21 Kanarusha and Akariya 28 People, Parties, Places French luxury brand that has been Learning how to read the hidden histories Bill Hersey is back on the scene, hitting mastering the “Four Arts” for 142 years of Japanese antiques exhibitions and embassy parties 10 Le Maison du Chocolat 24 Summer Schools 34 Movies A master chocolatier talks about the Our listing of Tokyo’s best summer school Long-anticipated X-Men addition, innovation and creativity of sweets programs for kids of all ages Fukushima aftermath coverage, and more 12 Le Cordon Bleu 26 Lexus Party 36 Agenda Legendary culinary arts school and café Celebrating the end of our Lexus Series at House concerts, Design Festa, and the welcomes you in Daikanyama the Intersect space in Aoyama beginning of the Yoyogi summer festivals

www.tokyoweekender.com MAY 2014 THIS MONTH IN THE WEEKENDER

iconic products of the storied S.T. Dupont MAY 2014 to the high-concept chocolates of La Maison MAY 2014 du Chocolat and the culinary tradition of Le Japan’s number one English language magazine Cordon Bleu. One of our features this month is on inventor who might be just as prolific as spring itself: Dr. Yoshiro Nakamats is one of those characters who seems to have stepped out of a science fiction novel, but he’s as real Publisher BC Media Group as his solid gold toilet. Chairman Ray Pedersen Read on, but we’ve got a warning Executive Producer Asi Rinestine for you: lurking towards the back of the UNSUNG ISLANDS magazine is the movie monster Godzilla, Editor Alec Jordan The history & scenery of Iki and Tsushima who’s preparing to rise up to the screens Art Director Liam Ramshaw once again. We took a look back at the Illustrator Liam Akin GODZILLA A look at the behemoth’s cinematic past superstar saurian’s first steps out of the Media Director Kotaro Toda PAGING DR. NAKAMATS ocean and into cinematic history, and chat Account Executives Nobu (Nick) Nakazawa Inside the mind of Japan’s most prolific inventor with a young Japanese star, Yamamura, Ohad Elbaz ALSO: Summer School Special, Fine Dining in Tokyo, People, Parties, and Places, upcoming events and more... who appears in the latest movie. As you page your way to this legendary Media Consultant Mary Rudow hen it comes to spring, those Marketing Ingrid Dubreuil lizard, you might want to take a detour blossoms—the early plum, Editorial Consultant Sami Kawahara and visit two of Nagasaki’s lesser-known and the short-lived cherry— W isles. Lying off the north coast of Kyushu, Society Bill Hersey probably get a bit too much Iki and Tsushima both have rich histories press. It’s when you can see that green riot Editorial Associates Vivian Morelli and inviting landscapes that offer many of the trees’ leaves and the weeds along the Matthew Hernon surprises to the traveler who is willing to train lines that you really know that the Mace Bertumen take the trip. fairest of all seasons is upon us. We hope Finally, the Weekender is happy to see Film Christopher O’Keeffe you can get out there and enjoy it, because Bill Hersey back to full strength and his full Japanese springs are both fair and brief, IT Manager Nick Adams four pages; we’re tempted to think that he and the sauna they call summer will be on Development Manager Stephane Boudoux might just be tougher than Godzilla himself. before you know it. Finance & Admin Sakura Arimura Enjoy your Golden Week(end), DBA Iryna Sundutova Looking at this month’s cover, you whether you get out of town or stick might be thinking that Bastille Day came a around to enjoy a slightly quieter Tokyo, couple months early. But as this year marks and we’ll see you in June. the 90th anniversary of the Japanese- French cultural partnership, we felt a bit too impatient to wait until July to recognize EST. Corky Alexander, 1970 some of the French businesses that are making an impression in Japan, from the Editor Published monthly at the Regency Shinsaka Building, 5th floor 8-5-8 Akasaka, Minato-ku, Tokyo 107-0052 (03) 6666-4924 / (03) 6432-9229 (fax) [email protected]

To subscribe to the Tokyo Weekender, please call (03) 6666-4924 or email: [email protected]

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Fried Sushi by Liam Akin. To see more of Liam’s work check out www.friedsushi.net

MAY 2014 www.tokyoweekender.com www.tokyoweekender.com MAY 2014 By Matthew Hernon

LISTED BY THE US SCIENCE ACADEMIC SOCIETY ALONGSIDE ARCHIMEDES, MICHAEL FARADAY, MARIE CURIE AND NIKOLA TESLA AS ONE OF THE FIVE GREAT SCIENTISTS OF ALL TIME, DR. YOSHIRO NAKAMATS IS AN ENIGMATIC INVENTOR WHO’S HAD A HAND IN ALL KINDS OF CREATIONS DOWN THE YEARS, INCLUDING THE FLOPPY DISC, JUMPING SHOES, AND THE SELF-DEFENSE WIG. HE CURRENTLY HAS 3342 PATENTS TO HIS NAME, YET HAS NO PLANS TO STOP THERE, BELIEVING HE HAS MUCH MORE TO GIVE. SO WHAT IS IT THAT MAKES THIS ECCENTRIC 85-YEAR-OLD FROM TOKYO TICK? WEEKENDER RECENTLY VISITED HIS HOUSE/OFFICE TO FIND OUT...

AN INSPIRATIONAL MUM I think my mother is the greatest inventor of all time: after all, she made me! I’m not interested in others—she was always the one I looked up to. From the age of three she started educating me, and not just about simple things, but important subjects like chemistry and physics. That’s why I started inventing at such a young age and by five I’d made an automatic center of gravity adjuster for airplanes that is still being used today. She was also the inspiration behind my first patented product at the age of 14: the kerosene pump. During WWII there was no gasoline or fuel which made it very cold. I saw her hands shaking as she poured soy sauce from a big bottle into a smaller one, so I decided to make a pump so she wouldn’t have to hold it. This was then subsequently used for the transfer of all kinds of fuels and liquids.

THE FLOPPY DISK Two years after the war I got the idea for the floppy disk. Listening to Symphony No.5 by Beethoven at home, I was frustrated by the scratching sound caused by the friction of the groove and needle: it was disturbing the music. It was then I decided to create something without that noise; that was the starting point of the disk. The name came about because at that time two butterflies were flopping around outside my window.

MAY 2014 www.tokyoweekender.com DR. NAKAMATS | FEATURE | 7

most extreme inventions, though I wouldn’t recommend it to nor- mal people. I developed a special underwater writing system as ideas come and go very quickly.

HIS CELEBRITY STATUS AND WHY HE RUNS FOR GOVERNOR I’m a singer/songwriter and danc- er who holds regular concerts. I have fans all over the world. In America they have Dr. Nakamts days, while the film about me— The Invention of Dr. Nakamats— Of course IBM did their own research, age of 42. Known as yakudoshi, it’s considered has won many awards and proved but my patent was earlier than theirs so they an unlucky year when our health starts to de- very popular, particularly in Europe. had a problem. They sent their vice-presi- teriorate. Wanting to know why I began writ- I enjoy being in the public eye, but that dent to meet me and I agreed to grant them ing down about every meal. Then I realized isn’t why I run for governor. My ancestors the sale license in return for a financial set- it’d be better to take a picture of each one, and were Jikisan Hakamoto, an elite samurai in tlement. They confirmed it was my invention I only eat one a day. I did this for 35 years and direct service to the shogun, and that is why I and I respect them for that. The front gate of that’s why I won the IgNobel Prize. should be elected, but the people don’t know my house is in the shape of the disk because People from Harvard University called about that. [In the last election he received this is where I first got the idea. (IBM spokes- me to tell me, but I’ll be honest: I didn’t have a 64,744 votes]. I’ll keep trying, and if I win I’ll man Mac Jeffrey claims that the floppy disk clue what they were talking about. Some kind revolutionize this city. Nobody is coming up was entirely their own creation, though Dr. of joke? I did some research and discovered with anything new; we need more inventive Nakamats does have a number of patents it was a real science award with a comedy education and more inventive companies. As related to it). element attached. I liked the sound of it. The the chairman of the “World Genius Conven- tion” for 27 years I also feel I have the experi- ence to cope with international events such as I believe I could possibly live until I’m 144. That’s the 2020 Olympics. This is something the new governor—Yoichi Masuzoe—lacks. I wish him my goal, so hopefully I have another 60 years to cre- luck, but I believe there are many problems ate many more inventions. behind the scenes. THE FUTURE HIS WACKIER INVENTIONS Nobel Prize concerns research that normal I don’t trust politicians: they talk lots but don’t The Love Jet—a spray that is supposed to people can’t understand, whereas the IgNobel take action. You saw how slow they were re- heighten sexual stimulation—is both a one can be enjoyed by everyone and that’s garding the nuclear disaster. While they sit on political and medical product. What I mean what science should be about. Before getting their hands, I’m trying to discover alternative by this is that adults who use it become more the award I was told the acceptance speech energy that is good for the environment and attractive to the opposite sex and conse- must be short and include a joke, they said cost effective. That’s my main target for the quently this can help save Japan as we are mine had been the funniest they’d heard. future, that and cancer therapy. suffering due to a low birth-rate [Such is his I am constantly investigating all kinds of concern about this issue, he decided to sell it PLACES THAT STIMULATE therapy so people can live longer. You never at a cheaper price than it costs to produce]. I THE BRAIN know what’s around the corner; I could have tested it on 50,000 people and everyone was I have a calm and dynamic room. The latter is an accident or be diagnosed with a terminal satisfied. One American couple wrote to me full of pictures and loud music which makes illness, but I believe I could possibly live until saying it was the best thing since apple pie! my brain more creative. My calm room is the I’m 144. That’s my goal, so hopefully I have an- On top of that it has many health bene- bathroom, where all noise is completely shut other 60 years to create many more inventions. fits, as do the majority of my products: take out. It’s made entirely of gold, the Cerebrex armchair, for example. This including the toilet. I sit there has an enhancing robot which boosts human and get ideas, sometimes in a performance, improving eyesight, memory, few seconds, other times I’ll be calculation ability and more. The “pyon there for hours. I’m especially pyon” jumping shoes were also made with productive between 12 am and people’s well-being in mind. Everyone sees 4 am, the best time for creative them as a joke item, but my intention was thinking, I then usually sleep to create something that caused less stress between 4 and 8 am. on the body when running. This was after Another place I like to I found out that the pioneer of jogging in go is my water tank, which I America—Jim Fixx—died in his early fifties. dive into without any oxygen. How long depends on my WINNING THE IGNOBEL PRIZE body condition, but the best As well as exercising it’s important to eat ideas come 0.5 seconds before right. I started recording what I ate from the dying. This is when I get the

www.tokyoweekender.com MAY 2014 Luxury Living with S.T. Dupont

pen and a lighter might seem, to the As Yann Gahier, President of S.T. Dupont Japan, average user, like everyday tools. You explains, “Every era and every year we adapt to probably wouldn’t think twice about the taste of the consumers. We are always trying to either one in terms of the design and renew ourselves but preserve our DNA.” This has led technology that go into making them the company to be very sensitive to changes in con- work as you jot down a note or light up a cigarette or sumers’ lifestyles and habits, and adapt accordingly. candle. But as S.T. Dupont demonstrates, a true dedication One early example of this adaptation came at the to craftsmanship and quality can transform an everyday end of World War II, when people stopped traveling object into a work of art or a family heirloom. as much. Travel goods were initially the core of the Founded more than 140 years ago, S.T. Dupont has a brand’s business at that time, but they shifted their rich history connected to royal families and the aristocracy. focus to lighters. The lighter business boomed in the But having a strong connection to the past doesn’t mean years following the war, and S.T. Dupont later ex- the brand sticks to a tried-and-true strategy. In fact, it is a panded to pens when Jacqueline Kennedy requested dedication to innovation that has allowed them to stay in one to match her favorite Dupont lighter. Prior to this business for nearly one and a half centuries. request, the company had never made pens, but this

MAY 2014 www.tokyoweekender.com S.T. DUPONT | A TASTE OF FRANCE | 9 Orient Express limited edition

A History of Excellence

willingness to respond to the needs of their customers is what led them to thrive in that market. How you adjust to challenging times as a After the Lehman Shock in 2008, the business is a strong indicator of how success- brand further rejuvenated their image by ful your business will be, according to Gahi- creating a line that was affordable to people er. In 2000, the anti-tobacco campaign came with less disposable income. The Mini Jet as a major challenge for the company—light- Lighter starts at ¥13,000, making it an acces- ers had become a large share of the business. sible lighter, but one that still holds to the S.T. Dupont once again adjusted with a brand’s standards for high quality. It also 1872 revival of their leather goods, and extended allows the brand to engage their customers At the age of 25 simon tissot dupont became the photographer to Napoleon their brand to a wider range of consumers. with their products early and evolve with iii and understood the wanderlust Thanks to this organic development of their the brand. “Through the Mini Jet, we diver- of his time. He created a luggage and product line, S.T. Dupont officially specializes sify, yet at the same time we initiate younger leather goods workshop. His vision in four areas—lighters, pens, leather goods, customers to the uniqueness of S.T. Dupont was the art of travel.

For a brand to live for 140 years or more, you ¥1.5 million, and the brand’s most expensive cannot always repeat the same thing. You need to piece rings in at ¥70 million. The company launched in Japan in 1976, and has become keep surprising with a high level of creativity a luxury household name, particularly for lighters. S.T. Dupont’s flagship store in Ginza and many high-end department stores and accessories—and have branded these so they can aim for the iconic lighter in the around Japan carry the “The Four Arts” of S.T. products, respectively, “The Art of Fire,” “The future,” Communications Manager Aya Sug- Dupont. They will also feature pieces from Art of Writing,” “The Art of Travel,” and “The ino explained. Shortly after this expansion S.T. Dupont’s upcoming collection for 2014: Art of Seduction.” of the product line, the brand created one “Chivalry,” which depicts classic knights of of the most powerful lighters in the world: days gone past and the armors of tomorrow. collaborations and the innovative “Defi Extreme Lighter,” which “For a brand to live for 140 years or Innovations can resist strong winds and light up at tem- more, you cannot always repeat the same Collaborating with artists is one of the ways peratures as low as –4°. thing. You need to evolve with the world and the brand livens up its collections. By team- keep surprising with a high level of creativ- ing up with designer Karl Lagerfeld three Maintaining Roots ity while maintaining the highest quality.” years ago and more recently with Eiichiro Although the brand is constantly evolv- Gahier says. “S.T. Dupont is all about time- Oda, creator of the immensely popular man- ing, S.T. Dupont maintains the spirit of the less elegance and refinement.” ga, One Piece, S.T. Dupont presented them- history they are proud of. “There is a strong selves to an expanded, and much younger, unity between what we did before and what The Sleeping Mermaid Collection, designed by One customer base. we do now,” Gahier says, “S.T. Dupont is Piece creator, Eiichiro Oda always about taking inspiration from history, and building the future. We call it roots and wings. We are inspired from our roots—the roots of our history and what we’ve built until now—and build on the future with modern products.” But, at the end of the day, Gahier says, “We make sure that all of our products have S.T. Dupont DNA. That is really the most important thing.” S.T. Dupont’s signature bell sound as you flip the cap of the lighter, or the royal blue lining of its leather goods are some of the brand’s “genetic material” that the company will always preserve. Their traditional lighters range in price from ¥70,000 to ¥300,000, but some of S.T. Dupont’s more intricate pieces can sell for

Line D leather collection www.tokyoweekender.com MAY 2014 La Maison du Chocolat Master Chef of La Maison du Chocolat, Nicolas Cloiseau, talks about continuing the tradition of the French chocolate house, while keeping things fresh with some unique innovations

recipients must demon- strate a high level of technical proficiency to be worthy of the recognition, creating pieces that demon- strate both skill and ingenuity. “One of the most challenging cre- ations I’ve ever had Japanese are more to do was to fabricate a snake necklace to subtle, and more attach to a yellow sensitive. Whereas diamond for jeweler Boucheron’s 150th a strong chocolate anniversary,” Clois- Cloiseau (right) and Maxime Hoert, head barman at The Bar du Bristol eau notes, referring to will please Parisians, the masterpiece that icolas Cloiseau was probably paired a 20.08 carat diamond with real more often than not it destined for a culinary career, chocolate covering a gold skeleton. and he didn’t have to go far to This sense of innovation, creativity, and will be too strong for begin learning. Most of his youth playfulness continue to show through in Clois- Nwas spent roaming around his restauranteur eau’s confections today. In a similar fashion Japanese uncle’s kitchen in Brittany, and by the time he to designer clothing brands, La Maison du graduated from high school, he knew more Chocolat creates limited chocolate collections then the added flavor, and the chocolate again than his fair share about fine cuisine. After a for each season, complete with original ideas to end on that note. This is the signature of La pâtissier course that left him hungry to learn and concepts standing behind the story. “Each Maison du Chocolat.” Cloiseau explains that the more about chocolate, he landed a job at the collection and product is made with artisanal taste and quality of the chocolate depends on its prestigious La Maison du Chocolat in Paris, spirit, and demonstrates the philosophy of the aroma, and he works closely with a sourcing ex- founded in 1977 by Robert Linxe. The founder maison,” says Cloiseau. pert who finds the exact chocolate plantations to was so impressed with his apprentice’s sense This summer’s featured collection is enti- match his collections. “Cocoa beans are a bit like of artistry that he created a position for him, tled “Esprit Cocktail,” and it is the product of a wine, with particular undertones such as fruit.” which allowed him to craft outstanding pieces collaboration between two Meilleur Ouvriers Cloiseau has visited Japan a few times al- and create his own collections. de France—Cloiseau and Maxime Hoert, ready, and he quickly caught a grasp of the Jap- It was also during that time that Clois- head barman of luxury Parisian hotel lounge anese market. “Japanese are more subtle, and eau entered various contests and won the The Bar du Bristol. The delicate ganache in more sensitive. Whereas a strong chocolate will distinguished “Meilleur Ouvrier de France” this collection combines with fruits and tea please Parisians, more often than not it will be award back in 2007, which recognizes special infusions, bearing names such as “Bellini” too strong for Japanese,” says Cloiseau. Despite abilities amongst professional craftsmen. It (dark chocolate ganache, Champagne and the different palates to please, he does not adapt goes without saying that the award peach liqueur) and “So Bristol” (Earl Grey his recipes for this side of the world, choosing to is not an easy one to obtain, and tea, citrus and flower infusions in dark remain authentic to his culinary vision. chocolate). Remarkably, some of the However, the chef has created some exclu- exquisite creations in this collection sive editions for the Japanese market, integrat- 8 PIECES ¥3,240 27 PIECES ¥7,344 contain no alcohol at all. ing traditional flavors such as yuzu and sakura.

ESPRIT COCKTAIL IS ONLY And while you may not be able to He is currently working with sake, which can be AVAILABLE DURING SPRING/ SUMMER 2014 make the trip to The Bar du Bristol a challenging flavor pairing for chocolate. But in Paris yourself, Cloiseau hopes judging by Cloiseau’s past creations, we have no that the flavors of this collection not doubt that it would be a delicious success. only “make you feel as if you were enjoying these cocktails at The Bar La Maison du Chocolat Roppongi Hills du Bristol in Paris,” as he explains, Roppongi Hills West Walk 2F but also take you a short excur- 6-10-1, Roppongi, Minato-ku sion through a variety of flavors: 106-6108 Tokyo | Tel : 03-3478-7530 “When they bite into it, we want Open: Daily, 11 am–9 pm (L.O. 8:30 pm) people to first taste the chocolate, Cafe space: 10 seats

MAY 2014 www.tokyoweekender.com Visit our New website at www.century21japan.com

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www.tokyoweekender.com MAY 2014 12 | A TASTE OF FRANCE | LE CORDON BLEU

just sit and watch the world go by. Le Cordon Bleu Japan is an Approved Program Provider for the internationally recognized Wine and Spirit Education Trust. Given the popularity of the programs, the Daikanyama school will expand their offering to include English programs from July. The WSET® Level 1 Award in Wines is a one-day A Culinary Classic: program in which students can learn about the different types of grapes and wines, and get an introduction to wine-making and food and wine matching. The wine course will be taught Le Cordon Bleu by Richard Dawson, owner of Parabola wine bar in Nishi Azabu and The Devil in the Grape Considered by many to be the most prestigious culinary school in wine company. As the only International Culinary Arts the world, Le Cordon Bleu continues to strive in the education of School in Japan, Le Cordon Bleu Japan has hospitality management and culinary arts. 6,000 students participating in its culinary classes each year and 850 students in the diplo- ma program, 60% of whom are international ext year will mark their 120th year In Japan, there are two Le Cordon Bleu students. Lessons are assisted by interpreters, milestone, and with this experience schools located in Tokyo and Kobe. Founded in and students can choose the language in which comes a certain level of tradition Daikanyama in 1991, the Tokyo school offers cui- they prefer to study to benefit from an interna- and prominence that is well re- sine, pastry, and bakery programs in Japanese, tional experience while being in Japan. Nspected not only in the culinary world, but also English, and Chinese, welcoming international From beginners interested in all culinary for anyone familiar with fine dining. Starting and Japanese students together. The courses arts to professionals looking to improve their off as a small culinary school in Paris, the com- range in level from Initiation to Superior or skills and master the art of fine cuisine, Le pany has expanded worldwide to 27 different Advanced, and the number of lessons in each Cordon Bleu Japan offers a full spectrum of countries with an international alumni network class varies from 20 to 23 sessions, allowing for programs to get involved in. And to start, of 300,000 people. an intense study in the culinary modules. check out La Boutique Café for a free coffee or Le Cordon Bleu has produced many The Grand Diplome is the most comprehen- tea, compliments of Le Cordon Bleu (see below world-renowned chefs and creators of Michelin sive training, as students learn French culinary for details). star restaurants, and has even made its way into techniques and how to apply them to any mainstream media, featuring in many books cuisine, in addition to developing the full range LA BOUTIQUE, AND COURSE INFO and Hollywood films. Famous chef and Food of skills in French pastry. Throughout the train- Network star, Mario Batali, as well as the subject ing, demonstrations, tastings, and individual, La Boutique Le Cordon Bleu of a popular movie played by Academy-award practical, hands-on classes, are set up to develop winner Meryl Streep, Julia Child, are just two students’ palates and skills. But even if you’re Open Tues.–Sun. 9:30 am to 7:00 pm examples of success stories that have roots in Le not the next Julia Child, or don’t plan on spend- (L.O. for eat-in customers 6:30 pm) Cordon Bleu. ing nights whipping up gourmet food in Free coffee or tea to customers who men- the kitchen, you can still experience tion this article (basic tea or coffee only) Le Cordon Bleu in Tokyo. Located just a few steps Course Information away from Daikanyama Station, NEW: English WSET 1 Awards in Wines from La Boutique Cafe is a delicious July 26th. Classic Cycle in English: Cuisine, opportunity for customers to taste Bakery, and Pastry programs. For inquiries the hard work of Le Cordon or a private counselling appointment: Bleu’s chefs, pâtissiers and [email protected] bakers. The café offers an assortment of cakes, deli Access: 28-13, Sarugakucho, -ku, Tokyo, items, arguably the best 150-0033 | Tel: 03-5489-0141 (EN/FR/CN/JP) French bread in Tokyo, Web: www.cordonbleu.edu/tokyo/home-en/en a small range of wines and beers and a charming By Train: Tokyu Toyoko Daikanyama station 2min. terrace area where you can JR Yamanote or Hibiya line station 10min. MAY 2014 www.tokyoweekender.com BONJOUR TOKYO | A TASTE OF FRANCE | 13

Bonjour Tokyo’s events come in all shapes Bringing the “French and sizes, from events at trendy night spots— like Las Chicas in Omotesando, Ginza Roots, or Le Cordon Bleu in Daikanyama—to more low- Touch” to Tokyo key, laid-back picnics in Yoyogi Park. Given the group’s name, it’s no surprise that many of Bonjour Tokyo’s events are French-themed, such as a Beaujolais Nouveau wine night, their upcoming Bastille Day party on July 12, or a new monthly French conversation group. But there are many events that all international guests would be familiar with, such as Halloween or Valentine’s Day—which Bonjour Tokyo celebrated this year with a romantic masquerade ball. And speaking of romance, Bonjour Tokyo’s signature event just might be its Singles Parties, which take place every three months (the next one is coming up in May). They’ve proved to be very popular, drawing about 300 guests each time, and making quite a few couples. Tirode doesn’t play ven though it’s an English phrase, the the parties and activities he matchmaker directly, but he does see “French touch” is a concept that can be as has arranged for the rest of the year. He all of his events as a great way to make Ehard to directly describe as omotenashi: says that his approach is to use fun as a way to international connections, be they long-term at its most basic, you can say that it’s a certain bring people together and bring down inter- relationships or just new friends. sense of Gallic style, a feeling of joie de vivre, and cultural barriers—for foreigners, who often maybe a touch of romance. have a tough time finding real opportunities Keep an eye out for Bonjour Tokyo’s events on That’s the touch that Julien Tirode, the for making their way into Japanese society, and their site, www.bonjourtokyo.com, in our founder of event group Bonjour Tokyo, ex- Japanese people, who are often shy in making Agenda, and on tokyoweekender.com’s event plained that he wants to bring to each one of new connections. calendar.

www.tokyoweekender.com MAY 2014 TOKYO TABLES GOURMET TOKYO A GUIDE TO THE CITY’S FINEST DINING

511 KOBE-BEEF KAISEKI

meal at 511 Kobe-Beef Kaiseki will make you rethink what you know about Kobe beef. The restaurant takes its name A from the two grades of beef that the restaurant exclusively uses—A5 is the highest quality of Japanese beef, and 11 is the almost the highest grade of marbling, as measured on a 12-point scale. One of the things that makes the restaurant stand out is the beef itself. First, 511 uses meat only from thoroughbred cows, and rather than buying individual cuts, the restaurant buys the entire cow, from shoulder to rump, and takes advantage of the unique characteristics of each cut for its menu. Kaiseki ryori cuisine features a variety of small dishes, made with seasonal ingredients, and 511’s take on kaiseki ryori uses beef in almost every course, and finishes with a steak as a main. Instead of preparing their steaks teppanyaki style, on a hot iron grill, the restaurant roasts them in a brick oven at nearly 1000°C, a process that seals in the juices, making for steaks that are rich, In addition to the kaiseki course, 511 also offers a sukiyaki course flavorful, and tender. As a unique touch, they are served with a and a mixed Kobe beef/seafood course. But don’t say we didn’t warn you: light and airy foam that you cut into small slices and melt on the after trying the beef at 511, you just might not be able to enjoy Kobe beef pieces of steak. anywhere else. The food is served on exquisitely crafted pottery and lacquer, and the restaurant itself has a lush, yet contemporary look, with brushed www.a511.jp/en 03-6685-0511 | Fax: 03-6893-0511 concrete and daring architectural features. In addition to the main dining area, the restaurant also offers booth seating that can be B1, Dear Plaza Akasaka, Akasaka 4-3-28, Minato-ku, Tokyo 107-0052 curtained off, as well as completely private dining rooms, making it an Open: Lunch 11:30–14:30 (L.O. 14:00) Dinner 18:00–23:00 (L.O. 22:00) ideal spot for a romantic dinner or a convivial group meal. Closed: Sundays, National Holidays

Despite the control that he puts into creating this unique dining environment, Yarita gets his greatest satisfaction as a chef from seeing the spontaneous enjoyment that his customers take from his work: Indulge only seats one group a day, and this allows him to pay complete attention to his guests, and to his cooking. Yarita uses a variety of locally sourced Japanese ingredients, but combines and prepares them in novel ways, using the techniques of classic and contemporary French cuisine that he learned in the United States while studying at Chicago’s Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts and working at several of the city’s finest restaurants. Take, for example, one of Indulge’s signature offerings: a savory flan, topped with a foam garnish (During our visit, it was a white asparagus flan with Parmesan Reggiano foam). All appearances led us to expect the sweetness of a dessert, but instead the flavors of asparagus and Parmesan were presented in a unique consistency that had us curious to try the entire course menu. Indulge also features a wine list drawn entirely from Japanese varietals, which provide an ideal complement to each dish. INDULGE In a city where you can spend an inordinate amount of money for the uite simply, Yoichiro Yarita, the chef/owner of Indulge, name of a restaurant’s famous chef, this oasis close to offers a is an artist, and the medium on which he works is his culinary experience that truly lives up to its name: it is a place where you Q restaurant. Every element of the space is thought out: can take a few hours away to surprise, delight, and indulge your senses. the seven-course menu that changes monthly, in keeping with the changing seasons’ freshest ingredients; the elegant, minimal www.indulge-tokyo.com/english/index.html 03-5828-2228 atmosphere of the dining space; and even the plates and dishes on which he serves his creations—Yarita designed Indulge’s interior, 3-19-17 Kotobuki, Taito-ku and collaborated with a glassmaker to create many pieces of custom Indulge serves only one party a day, so book your reservation tableware for the restaurant. well in advance

MAY 2014 www.tokyoweekender.com GOURMET TOKYO | FOOD & DRINK | 15

ARCANA TOKYO KARATO

ocated on the top floor of one of the newest, most popular buildings in town, arcana has established itself as a L modern take on healthy and French cuisine. Floor-to- ceiling windows encase the 80-seat space, giving it a light, airy ambiance that complements the light food served along with it. Instead of the heavier base of butter and cream French food is typically prepared with, head chef of arcana, Yasushi Karato, focuses on a healthier approach with many vegetables, light fish and lean meats. The presentation of dishes, particularly their signature dish, which is dubbed “the amusement park of veggies,” is an art that equally appeals to the sense of sight as it does the sense of taste. Vegetables are taken to a whole new level, and some of their best desserts are created with produce, including asparagus, pumpkin, potato, carrot, and even asparagus. After celebrating their one-year anniversary in March, arcana plans to open up their terrace this summer for guests to enjoy an evening of drinks and small dishes, with a stunning view of Marunouchi. The restaurant serves as the perfect spot for lunches with clients or friends during the week, or for romantic dinner dates

during the evenings. arcana attracts both an international and foreign © wakana murata clientele, thanks to their Japanese, English, and French-speaking staff, as well as a full menu in each language. Table seating is available for “a la carte” dishes or prix fixe three- course lunches or eight-course dinners, refreshed every two months The first Japanese branch of LA-based Patina Restaurant, PATINA with seasonal ingredients. Two private rooms are available for prix fixe diners. TOKYO marks the first international foothold for PATINA The balance of flavors and textures makes Arcana the optimal RESTAURANT GROUP, a leader in the premium segment of middle ground between rich flavors and light cuisine. the restaurant industry with more than 50 establishments in the US. PATINA TOKYO’s highlights are its spacious dining room, its authentic classic American bar counter, and the chef ’s table, where guests can host their private events and can be served by the chef directly. Under founder and chef Joachim Splichal’s direction, guests can enjoy French inspired California cuisine that is full of art and creativity, as well as a carefully curated wine list that perfectly complements the food menu.

Web: patinatokyo.com | Tel: 03-5738-7031 www.arcana.co.jp 03-6833-4139 1st floor Kamiyama Forest, 11-15 Kamiyama-Cho, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo, Japan 150-0047 Tokyo, Chiyoda, Marunouchi, 2 Chome-7-2, JP Tower 6F, 100-7006 03-5828-2228 Lunch: Monday through Sunday, 11:00–16:00; Dinner: Monday Opening Hours through Saturday 18:00–23:00; Sunday and holidays 18:00–22:00 -Fri 11:30-14:00 | Mon-Thu 17:00-23:00(L.O.22:30) | Fri,Sat & HolidayS 17:00-23:30(L.O.23:00) | Closed On Sundays

TOKYO TABLES

www.tokyoweekender.com MAY 2014 Iki: An Island

By Alec Jordan in Time

Weekender recently visited a pair of Nagasaki’s lesser-known islands. Join us as we take in the history, culture, and cuisine of these hidden treasures. First stop: Iki

tepping onto the dock at the Iki ferry termi- that dot the island’s landscape. Even some sea pi- nal, we immediately felt like we had shifted rates—the wakou, who were of Japanese, Korean, and down several gears from the fast pace of Chinese ancestry—have touched Iki’s history. Tokyo—even Fukuoka, where the hour- Over the hundreds and thousands of years that longS ferry ride started from, seemed like another Iki has been inhabited, its people have paid their world away. We took a deep breath of the sea air respect to the forces of nature in various ways, and and started out on our tour. the island’s 200 shrines and temples are one form When the weather is good, a bicycle is an ideal of demonstrating this respect. Built in places of way to get around the island: bikes are available for natural power or beauty (a grove of trees, for exam- rent at Iki’s tourism office (a short walk from the ple, or a small mountain, or a waterfall), the sheer ferry terminal), where you can also find out about number of shrines in such a small space stands as a seasonal events, festivals, and other activities. testament to how much the people of the island ap- As we made our way around the island, passing preciate the nature that surrounds them. You could over gentle hills and through curving, tree-lined say that the people also have a strong superstitious roads, we imagined that the historical inhabitants of streak, so it was no surprise that we heard more Iki would have been as taken with the scenery—clear than one local tell us a ghost story during our trip. blue-green water, pristine beaches, and expansive In fact, one of Iki’s most prominent symbols has its views from the hills and mountains—as we were. origin in a supernatural tale. Over thousands of years, several different civiliza- In the dawns of time, the legendary warrior tions have made their home on the island: archeolog- Yuriwakadaijin had been tasked with clearing out ical traces remain of Jomon, Yayoi, and Kofun Period of the demons that inhabited the island, and he had people, who left behind the signature burial mounds gotten rid of all of them, but for one, who was the

Photo courtesy of Iki Board of Tourism MAY 2014 www.tokyoweekender.com NAGASAKI | TRAVEL | 17

1 As we made our way around the island, passing over gentle hills and through

Photos by Alec Jordan by Photos curving, tree-lined roads, we imagined that the historical inhabitants of Iki would 2 3 have been as taken with the scenery as we were.

a chance explore a bit, we found ourselves with quite an appetite. Iki is surrounded by rich fishing waters that yield some of the largest tuna in Japan, flavor- ful sea urchin, and squid; fishing for the latter also 1 The unmistakable profile of Saruiwa—Monkey Rock 2 Some of the varieties of shochu on hand at provides one of Iki and Tsushima’s most memorable Iki no kura 3 Iki’s celebrated wagyu, served at the night views. Squid are most active by night, and to restaurant Umeshima attract them to their boats, fishermen use an array of dazzlingly bright lights, known as isaribi, to lure the fiercest of them all. The warrior and the demon were squid to their boats. There are dozens of boats out at caught in a fierce battle that lasted for hours. Finally any given time, and gazing out at a clear sky decorat- Yuriwakadaijin was able to lop off the demon’s head, ed by bright points at the horizon line is a perfect way but such was its tenacity that it managed to land its to finish a day of exploring. We were surprised to find jaws atop the warrior’s helmet, squeezing away until out that, in addition to a variety of seafood the island the fighter feared it would break. His helmet did hold is famous for its own style of wagyu, and one of the firm, and to this day you can find flags and banners best places to get a taste of this well-marbled beef is emblazoned with this pair of combatants, with the right by the ferry terminal, at the restaurant Umeshi- warrior looking up into the eyes of his defeated foe. Of ma where you can try Iki wagyu as a Western-style course, there’s a touristic touch to these items, but it steak or as yakiniku. is hard not to see the image as something of a symbol Finally, whether you’re traveling by bicycle or of wildness and civilization, looking each other in the car, we’d recommend parking it and taking a taxi to face, that is part of Iki’s attraction. visit one of Iki’s shochu distilleries. The island is best A less fanciful way of looking at the island’s past is known for mugi (barley) shochu, and on our visit to Iki’s Natural History Museum. We were surprised by the Iki no kura distillery, we sampled varieties of the this space’s polish and sophistication; it would defi- spirit, ranging from light flavors to strong-bodied nitely fit in perfectly in one of Japan’s larger cities. In shochu that was reminiscent of a fine whiskey. fact, the museum is a field trip destination for school- For a relaxing vacation destination that lets you children who come from as far away as Hiroshima to take things at your own pace, Iki is well worth the see the exhibits. Designed by the celebrated architect trip. We’re already looking forward to our next visit. Kisho Kurokawa shortly before he died, the museum is a unique structure, with a grass-covered roof that HOW TO GET THERE: imitates the contours of the landscape that surrounds 1 hour by ferry from the port of Hakata (Fukuoka) it. The museum’s pride and joy is a smaller affair, 30 minutes by air from Nagasaki Airport however: an elaborate diorama of a Yayoi Period community that would have lived on the island. Normally, a historical diorama is nothing to write home about, but the detail, humor, and charm of the figures that inhabit the exhibit bring the historical period to life—literally, in fact: we heard from the museum staff that many of the faces of the characters in the diorama were modeled on the faces of people who live on Iki today. There are also some Yayoi Period clothes on hand, if you’d like to see how you’d look in extremely retro fashion. Of course, one can’t travel on histo- ry and scenery alone, and after we had A scene from the diorama at the Natural History Museum

www.tokyoweekender.com MAY 2014 UNSUNG ISLAND Text and pictures by Alec Jordan This “island crossroads” combines a fascinating history with a variety of outdoor activities

nternational relations have been at the heart This proximity to mainland Asia also led to plenty of Tsushima’s history for centuries, and a look of conflicts on the island, and over the centuries, at a map will quickly tell you why: Japan’s Tsushima found itself as the first line of defense closest neighbor, South Korea, lies less than 50 against invaders from the west. Ruins of castles, kilometers away. When the skies are clear, you forts, and walls, dating as far back as the late seventh canI see parts of the country’s coastline, and it’s easy century, and as recently as the 20th century, stand to pick up Korean radio stations if you’re in the mood as reminders of battles with Korean, Mongol, and to get your K-Pop straight from the source. Thanks to Russian forces. But over the long stretches of peaceful a high-speed ferry service from Pusan, the island has relations with its closest neighbor, Tsushima served as become a popular destination for Korean tourists, a location for diplomacy, international commerce and many of whom come over for a day’s worth of sight- intercultural exchange. During the , it was seeing and shopping. the first stage for the Korean delegations that would Hundreds of years ago, the trade between the come to visit the shogun. These diplomatic envoys nations consisted of far more than day trips. At its would stop at many cities on their way to the capital, peak, the flow of silver from Japan, and silk, pottery, gathering groups of local Japanese representatives at and ginseng from Korea made the dominant families each city and swelling into a diverse collection of local of the island very wealthy indeed, and Tsushima held a lords, soldiers, and servants several thousands strong. political power within Japan that far outweighed its size, You can learn more about these understudied thanks to the money and resources that passed through historical chapters—including the story of a Japanese the island’s ports. diplomatic community that was established in South

MAY 2014 www.tokyoweekender.com NAGASAKI | TRAVEL | 19

If you’re in the mood for lounging on the sand, Tsushima, like Iki to the south- east, is blessed with clear waters and some beaches that could rival tropical destinations

The of Watazumi Shrine Korea—at the Prefectural Tsushima History and Folk Customs Museum, near the center of it on postcards and in tourist guides, seeing blessed with clear waters and some beaches the town of Izuhara. Close by is the impres- one in the wild is not something you should that could rival tropical destinations. sive temple Banshoin, which was built in get your hopes up for. One traveler we talked In addition to the plentiful seafood to 1615, in honor of the first lord of Tsushima, with saw one on a hike earlier that day, but be had on the island—its yellowtail and sea So Yoshitoshi. many locals haven’t seen one outside of cap- bream are particularly well known—one of In addition to its rich history, Tsushima tivity at all, and even some veteran outdoors- Tsushima’s signature dishes is an example is an island of great natural beauty. It’s best men have only seen the Tsushima yamaneko of how foodways crossed international bor- explored by car, and rental services can easily once or twice in 10 or 20 years of exploring. ders. Rokube noodles are served in a hearty, be found close to the ferry terminal or the Birders, on the other hand, will not be disap- flavorful broth made with fish, but the airport. There are several points on the island pointed by the wide avian variety that can be noodles are made from sweet potatoes, and that afford spectacular views, including Shira- seen on Tsushima, as it the island serves as their unique consistency shouldn’t seem take, the tallest peak on the mountain, and the an international waypoint for hundreds of unfamiliar to anyone who has ever eaten most sacred: many islanders still remove their migrating birds, some of which come all the the Korean dish chapchae. Travelers with a shoes when they reach the summit. If you’d way from Southeast Asia. One more natural sweet tooth should try the sweet roll cake like an outstanding vista with a bit less of a phenomenon we would recommend happens kasumaki or sample the island’s renowned climb, you can also head to the viewing plat- only once a year, in May, when the Waniura honey, which is drawn from the many bee- forms at Mt. Eboshi or Kamizaka Park. Both district of the town of Kamitsushima—in the hives on the island. provide 360-degree panoramas that reveal a north of the island—blossoms into huge clouds At a time when tensions between Japan striking facet of Tsushima’s geography: it is of white that spill up the surrounding moun- and Korea flare up sporadically, the history made up of more than 100 mostly uninhabited tains as thousands of hitotsubatago trees come of scenic Tsushima serve as a reminder of islands. By night, the scene takes on an entire- into bloom. Known poetically as umiterashi the long history of cooperation between the ly different atmosphere, with the water lit up (illuminating the sea) or more humorously two countries. by dozens of isaribi—the brilliant lights used as nanjamonja!? (what on earth is this!?), this HOW TO GET THERE: as lures on the fishing boats of Tsushima. sight earned the district a listing on the regis- While you explore the forested areas of try of Japanese National Treasures. the island, you might want to cross your fin- The natural surroundings of Tsushima gers and keep an eye out for a rare creature make for an excellent opportunity to enjoy that is also one of the symbols of the island: a variety of outdoor activities: hiking can be the Tsushima yamaneko, or leopard cat. It’s done year-round, while during the warmer unique to the island, and while you might see months, you can go on sea kayaking excur- sions, making your way around some of the smaller islands and dropping in at one of them for lunch. One memorable spot that can be visited by land or sea are TSUSHIMA the five torii at Watazumi Shrine. These stone gates, two of which are in the wa- IKI ter, extend out from a shrine that is dedicated to two leg- endary ancestors of Japan’s Less than one hour by air from either first emperors. And if you’re Fukuoka or Nagasaki airports. just in the mood for loung- Approximately one hour by ferry from Iki, ing on the sand, Tsushima, about two hours from Hakata Port (Fukuoka), The historical entrance to the So Family compound like Iki to the southeast, is and under two hours to Pusan (South Korea)

www.tokyoweekender.com MAY 2014 20 | TRAVEL | NAGASAKI

island accomodations A GUIDE TO THE BEST PLACES TO STAY IN TSUSHIMA AND IKI

Photos by Yoshiro Hashimoto HIRAYAMA RYOKAN

yokan Hirayama is an ideal place to stay on your visit to Iki. Located in the center of the island, it offers Japanese- R style rooms that are both elegant and charming. The tastefully decorated chambers are a perfect place to unwind after a day of exploring, and friendly atmosphere will put you completely at ease. As you soak in the ryokan’s mineral-rich onsen, covered with a canopy made from broad-leafed tropical plants, you can practically feel the tension float out of your body. In fact, the only thing that might make you want to hurry out of the bath is the thought of dinner. The kitchen’s rotating menu highlights the freshest seasonal ingredients that can be found on Iki, from artfully prepared seafood to produce drawn from local fields—and even the ryokan’s garden. Ryokan Hirayama also boasts an impressive selection of sake and of course, Iki’s local shochu. And the next morning, a hearty, seemingly endless breakfast will give you plenty of fuel for the day’s Japan’s major publications and TV programs. adventures. There are eight rooms available at this intimate ryokan, ranging Service at Hirayama is friendly, attentive, and welcoming, in price from ¥13,000 to ¥32,000; dinner and breakfast are included. A and the entire operation is masterfully run by Ryokan Hirayama’s pickup service from the Iki ferry terminal can be arranged when you grand dame, Hiromi Hirayama. The vivacious Hirayama-san plans make your reservation. the menu, goes to the fish market early in the morning to buy the kitchen’s ingredients, and enlivens any room she enters with stories, jokes, and good humor. It can be said without a doubt that she is www.iki.co.jp 0920-43-0016 one of Iki’s celebrities, and the ryokan has been featured in some of 77 Tateishi Nishifure, Katsumotocho, Iki, Nagasaki 811-5556

private rooms available for groups. Western and Japanese breakfast plates are served in the morning. The hotel staff can offer suggestions for travel around Tsushima, and full- and half-day sea kayaking excursion courses can be arranged at the front desk. In addition to freshly baked bread and pastries from the bakery, “Plage,” you can drop in on the gift shop to take your pick of a variety of local souvenirs, including boxes of the local dessert, kasumaki, and the island’s celebrated honey. The Tsushima Grand features a choice of Western, Japanese-style, and hybrid rooms that can sleep up to five people, with rates ranging from ¥12,000 to ¥20,000 per person. We highly recommend rooms with a view of the water, which afford stunning sunsets and energizing morning TSUSHIMA GRAND HOTEL views. All room he Tsushima Grand Hotel looks out over the clear rates include dinner blue waters of the Tsushima Strait, and offers a mix of and breakfast (some T hospitality, stateliness, and style. From the moment you additional fees walk into the impressive lobby until you say farewell, the apply for special staff will do their utmost to make your stay a pleasant one. menu items). The restaurant “Isaribi” features a variety of courses and a la carte meals, including the chance to try one of Tsushima’s local delicacies, ishiyaki—a mix of fresh local seafood and vegetables, roasted on hot wwww.tsushima-grandhotel.jp/index.html 0920-54-9100 stone. In addition to a main dining area, the restaurant also has several Ko 41-10 Kechi, Mitsushimacho, Tsushima, Nagasaki 817-0322

MAY 2014 www.tokyoweekender.com ANTIQUES | ART & DESIGN | 21 The Secret Life of Antiques

in grade school: “I wanted to begin finding pieces that represented the ideals of the different periods of Japanese history.” Most of the items that Shibuya sells are from the Edo Period, but he also has many items that date back even farther, includ- ing some pieces of 4000-year-old

Jomon pottery; he also frequently Shibuya at his shop in Yoyogi loans pieces out to museums. Shibuya finds the people who made and used these pieces just One of the things that as intriguing as the time periods they come from. For example, the I truly love is to think Edo Period class system went in descending rank—samurai, farmer, about the person who artisan, and merchant—and as he made a piece, or used that explained, the pieces made and used by these people were an embodi- piece in their daily life. ment of their values: “One example of this would be the objects that There’s almost no way would belong to a samurai. Now, the duty of the samurai is to choose that I can avoid it; it’s an how he will die, and to constantly occupational hazard. be aware of being prepared to die. Even in small ways, the objects that is celebrating its 10th anniversary this year, you possess will reflect that spirit. has an extremely wide selection to choose That might be an extreme example, from, including tansu (cabinets), pottery, or but the mindset and philosophy bamboo ware, which is seeing a boom in

Photos by Norihisa Kushibiki Norihisa by Photos Some of the many pieces on display at Kanarusha in Fuchu behind each occupation, regardless popularity right now. Kanarusha’s low prices oday, it’s easy to head down to IKEA of what it was, is there.” Every time Shibuya make buying an antique even more accessible or Nitori and buy yourself a rela- appraises a piece for the shop, he immediately to new buyers, and Shibuya recommends one tively cheap piece of furniture that begins to imagine the human perspective. In of two approaches for people who are looking you can put together in a few hours, fact, it’s almost a reflex: “One of the things that to make their first antiques purchase. One TBut it won’t have much in the way of history, I truly love is to think about the person who is to do some studying before you buy, and energy, or, as Shinsaburo Shibuya, owner of made a piece, or used that piece in their daily think about the history and background of the Akariya and Kanarusha antique stores, life. There’s almost no way that I can avoid it: a piece. The other, more natural approach, explains, soul. it’s an occupational hazard!” would probably come a little easier to us: “Just If this is the case, then his shops are Someone new to antiques, however, is not choose something without thinking too much spiritual places indeed. They also feel a bit like likely to have this kind of awareness or sense about it—ask yourself, ‘what would be cool, or walking into a historical library, if you know of history, and the shops specialize in advis- really bring a new feeling to a room?’ Because how to “read” the objects in the store. A Bud- ing new customers as they make their pur- what you buy will become part of your daily dha statue from the Momoyama Period (1573– chase. The Kanarusha store in Fuchu, which life, a small part of history that you can have 1603) stands in one corner in your home.” of the room. On one wall, an Ainu-style kimono hangs next STORE INFO to an Edo Period (1603–1867) This month, on May 24 and 25, the Kanarusha biwa (an instrument similar store in Fuchu will be having a sale. For more to a lute). And next to us, an information, please visit their site at elaborate metal bento set from kanarusha.com/en/top.html the late Edo Period designed Kanarusha: 1-26-4, Shiraitodai, Fuchu-shi, Tokyo, Japan for hanami parties reminds Hours: 10:00–18:00 | Phone: 042-335-5253 us that things were done with Fax: 042-335-5845 |Email: [email protected] a bit more class several cen- Web: kanarusha.com/en/top.html turies ago. Shibuya explains that his initial inspiration Akariya: Yoyogi 4-8-1, Shibuya, Tokyo 151-0053 Hours: 11:00–19:00 (Closed Sundays and holidays) to begin collecting antiques Phone: 03-3465-5578 | Fax: 03-3465-5459 sprang from a fascination Email: [email protected] with Japan’s past that began Kanarusha has two floors of showroom space

www.tokyoweekender.com MAY 2014 22 | WEEKENDER | EXPAT LIFE

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MAYMAY 2014 2014 www.tokyoweekender.com www.tokyoweekender.com MAY 2014 24 | EDUCATION | SUMMER SCHOOLS

Help your children get the most out of their summer vacations this year Summerwith our collection of programs, Schools events and activities INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF THE SACRED HEART

he ISSH coeducational Summer School Program 2014 is now accepting applications. You can choose T from an extensive selection of educational, athletic, artistic and IT classes for children aged 8 to 18. Pre-K to Grade 2 students will enjoy fun and challenging age- appropriate, educational activities. Who can attend? All children aged 3–18 in the international community are welcome to ISSH. The Kindergarten to Grade 2 program is also open to ESL students. Students must enroll in the grade level that they completed as of June 2014. Pre-K students must be aged 3 years by September 1, 2014.

Kindergarten to Grade 2 Kindergarten students will explore nature through creative The deadline for applications is Friday, May 30. Payment must be play, stories, artwork and outdoor activities. Students in made in full by Tuesday, June 6. Grades 1 and 2 will develop their academic and imaginative skills through the theme of “Mystery.” In addition, students Tel: 03-3400-3951 | Email: [email protected] will be taught by numerous specialists in the areas of art, Web: www.issh.ac.jp sports and music. Address: 4-3-1 Hiroo, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo 150-0012

Grades 3 to Grade 12 Program information ISSH offers a wide range of courses in the areas of mathematics, Dates: Jun 16–27, from Monday through Friday Age: K–12 sciences, language, arts, music, technology and sports. Time: 8:30 am–3:00 pm (before and after child care is available)

The summer program at ai International School is particularly fun- filled and activities-oriented. Activities include water play in the wading pools, sensory explorations, cooking, art and craft projects, language activities, intercultural events, outdoor games, field trips and so much more. Categorized into preschool, kindergarten and school age programs, it is a weekly-based program that is flexible and allows you to sign up for 1–2 weeks or the entire summer, depending on your child or children’s needs. For parents with children 6 years and older, the School Age Summer Program is a perfect choice. It is packed with fun-filled and educational activities, and includes weekly field trips, swimming, art, language, science and cooking—there really is something for everyone. As well as being a lot of fun, the Summer Program is a great way for children to improve their English skills.

*This year’s summer program highlights include the return of ai’s Disco Party, held on August 14. Sign up today and join AIS to enjoy an ai INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL unforgettable summer with friends from all over the world.

ommunity is of primary importance at ai International AIS’s 2014 Summer Program runs from June 30 to August 15. For more School. The school has always had strong local support information contact: C from parents and community members alike, and Tel: 03-3769-3372 | Email: [email protected] has earned a reputation for providing a quality start Web: www.aiinternationalschool.com for its community’s children. The school’s aim is to help young Address: 5-4-1-3F, Mita, Minato-ku, Tokyo 108-0073 Japan children appreciate all of the challenges, pleasures, difficulties and camaraderie involved in learning, and rare are the moments Program information when you don’t hear the sound of children’s laughter during the Pre-school: 18 months to 3 years old | Kindergarten: 3 to 6 years old school day. School Age: 7 to 12 years old

MAY 2014 www.tokyoweekender.com SUMMER SCHOOLS | EDUCATION | 25

SOMOS INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

n International Children’s Day, explore Spanish food, cooking, music and arts at the Embassy. O The Spanish Embassy and SOMOS International School are holding a family event in commemoration of the 400th anniversary of the relationship between Spain and Japan. On this day, The Spanish Embassy is open for all participants to enjoy Spanish food, cooking and art workshops along with a music stage. Register now and join in the fun.

Tel: 03-6417-9071 | Email: [email protected] Web: www.somos-inter.com | Where: Spanish Embassy (Roppongi) Event Information Dates: June 1, 10:00–15:30 | Dress code: Child/casual Adult/Informal J’S INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL attire | Fee: ¥5,000/child ¥3,000/adult | Registration: To register please his year’s Summer Fun Program at J’s International e-mail your name and address to [email protected] School is full of hands-on activities, which include Circle T Time, Arts & Crafts, Music, Games, Park, Academics, and more. Children from 15 months to 6 years old are welcome to participate and will be able to step out of the classrooms to explore the world around them. There is a choice of 11 themes in this year’s program, ranging from Art Appreciation to Around the World—all of them fun-filled projects! Kids can participate in one theme or all eleven—5 days per theme.

Tel: 03-3452-2078 | Email: [email protected] Web: www.js-international-school.com | Address: 2-12-14 Moto-Azabu, Minato-ku, Tokyo 106-0046 Program information Dates: Jun 9–Aug 28 (Closed July 21, Aug 11–15. public holidays ) Age: 15 months-6 years old | Time: 9:30-2:20 (baby sitting option till 3:30) | Fee: ¥10,000 per day (regular) ¥ 12,000 per day (on the day)

Join us at GYMBOREE www.gymboree.jp this summer!

Summer School for 2-5 yr olds is also available!

Join us for Our 2014 Summer Bubble Pass !

6/9 (Mon) - 9/7(Sun)

Motoazabu(Hiroo) Jiyugaoka LalaPort 03-5449-2311 03-3723-0651 045-414-2719

www.tokyoweekender.com MAY 2014 An Evening At Intersect Following the first series of “In the Driving Seat” interviews, a group of Tokyo’s prominent expats gathered at a lifestyle showroom to talk about their varied roads to success.

hat do you get when you take a INTERSECT BY LEXUS fund manager, a pharma CEO, Lexus’s “lifestyle space,” INTERSECT is located a musician, an executive search in Aoyama and shares the street with the specialist, and an insurance ex- flagship stores of such brands as Prada, Cartier, Wecutive together in a room? In the case of a recent and Issey Miyake. It is clear from the first event put on by Lexus and Tokyo Weekender that glance that INTERSECT fits in perfectly with its brought together five prominent members of high fashion neighbors. The space has three Tokyo’s expat community, you got a discussion different floors, each with its own distinct am- based around the wisdom of more than 100 com- bience and décor: it’s the product of superstar bined years of life in Japan. interior design specialist, Masamichi Katayama (Wonderwall INC), who designed the interiors The evening’s guests of honor were the for the Uniqlo shops in Soho and Ginza. following five: When you walk in to the ground floor, you are greeted by a bright, open space with a café Alberto Estevez, CFO for MAPFRE Asia Pacific counter featuring coffee from the Norwegian Steve Engen, CEO of Renegen roastery Fuglen. Most of the evening was spent 1st floor cafe at Intersect Mark Buffett, fund manager with a Japanese on the second floor, which feels a bit like a finance firm comfortable living room from the late 50s/ Issac Nelson, musician, DJ, and producer early 60s, with thick carpets, mellow lighting, Joe Peters, president of I Search Worldwide and plenty of modern and classic furniture from around the world. Finally, there is a VIP area in The evening’s festivities took place at the recently the basement. opened INTERSECT by Lexus space. INTERSECT feels more like a club or a bar

MAY 2014 www.tokyoweekender.com INTERSECT PARTY | THE LEXUS 6 | 27

1 2 Luck means taking the chance, and taking a risk. You’ll always have the regret for not doing some- thing, and that will be big- 3 ger than trying something and failing.

taking a risk. You’ll always have the regret for not doing something, and that will be bigger than trying something and failing. I’ve been 1 Mark Buffett and the Weekender’s Sami Kawahara very lucky in terms of how my life has turned share a lighthearted moment during the reception 2 The interviewees tackle a question 3 Hanging out in the out since coming to Japan, but the first thing B1F lounge. was actually taking the risk to come here in the first place.” than anything else, particularly on the sec- places, and you have to bring yourself to those ond floor and in the basement. This feeling is places. For me, going to a place, and saying to The night ended with a surprise, as interviewee bolstered by the space’s soundtrack, which is myself, ‘Oh wow, this is a foreign country, I’m and musical guest Issac Nelson transformed curated by world-renowned DJ Towa Tei—the not going to make it, I can’t do this, I can’t do into his alter ego, DJ Ike, putting on a brief set laid-back mix features songs that run from Amy that…’ That’s not in my vocabulary. I like to down in the lounge and getting people on their Winehouse to and James Brown. make myself comfortable wherever I go. And feet, inspiring one light-footed guest to go from Throughout INTERSECT, you can find subtle that’s the honest-to-God truth.” breakdancing to ballroom dancing within the touches of Lexus design: wooden latticework on space of one song. All in all, it was an excellent the second floor referencing the spindle grille of What would be the best way to make sure way to conclude the first “In the Driving Seat” Lexus’s new line of cars, and car parts that have that life as an expat in Japan goes poorly? interviews, and definitely a great way to spend been painted white and put behind glass are just Joe Peters: “Never getting out of those gaijin a Wednesday night. two examples. enclaves of Tokyo, and not trying to see the The space holds events from time to time— rest of Tokyo, or Japan in general. Personally, http://lexus.jp/twe/ Towa Tei recently collaborated with a Japanese I don’t like to use the term ‘expat.’ An expat traditional storyteller, for example—and there is to me is someone who never gets out of those also a line of products for sale under the CRAFT- enclaves, and doesn’t really live here for the ED FOR LEXUS label, ranging from craft-made long term.” shawls and mugs to clothing and bags. If you had to go back home now and never AN EVENING WITH THE “IN THE come back, what would you miss the most DRIVING SEAT” INTERVIEWEES about Japan? As for the night itself, it was a relaxed affair, Steve Engen: “It’s either between ikura don- thanks to the comfortable surroundings of the buri (salmon roe over rice) or jogging early second-floor lounge, a convivial group of people, morning through the streets of Roppongi, and plentiful food and drink. Following some watching all the late-night partygoers wander- introductory remarks by Alec Jordan, editor ing around. You actually get a good workout, of Tokyo Weekender, and a toast by Masahide because you have to dodge people a lot and Amano, Assistant Manager with Lexus Interna- sometimes you aren’t fast enough.” tional, the interviewees, along with their friends and families, had a chance to mingle, and a What role do you think that luck has few groups got a chance to go on guided tours played in your life in Japan? around the INTERSECT space. There was also a Mark Buffett: “I think you make your own toast in honor of Stephen Huggins, interviewee luck. Luck means taking the chance, and DJ Ike gets ready to wow the crowds for the December 2013 issue, who passed away earlier this year. LEXUS INTERNATIONAL GALLERY AOYAMA Finally, given that the series began with one-to-one questions and answers, it seemed If you’d like to get a taste of the Lexus experience, go for a fitting to close the evening with a brief panel test drive, or just find out a bit more about the brand, drop discussion among the interviewees. in at Lexus International Gallery Aoyama. Their English speaking concierge staff is on hand to consult with you on These were a few of the best answers to the any question you might have about cars, in a sales-free interview questions during the night: environment where there is no pressure to buy.

How long did it take for you to feel like you Lexus International Gallery Aoyama could relax in Japan? 2-5-8 Kita-Aoyama, Minato-ku, Tokyo Issac Nelson: “I’ve been a lot of different Tel: 03-5786-2711

www.tokyoweekender.com MAY 2014 Bill with Former MLB player So Taguchi

PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES TOKYO’S LONGEST RUNNING SOCIETY PAGE, WITH BILL HERSEY

s I mentioned last column, being in the hospital was no fun. Moving on, I’d like to thank a lot of really good people for their hospital Super friends helped me find what has to be one of Tokyo’s visits and support. These included a lot of popular and busy diplomats— best hospitals—Saiseikai Central—and a group of top-notch Omanian Ambassador Khalid Muslahi and his wife Abeer; Palestine doctors who are really devoted and really tops in their Ambassador Waleed Siam and his wife, Maali; Philippines Ambassador specialties.A Once again kudos to the nurses at Saiseikai who really know Manuel Lopez; Paula Bowers, wife of the Canadian Ambassador; Bicky what they’re doing, work hard and have to be the nicest group of young Comberbach, wife of the Zimbabwean Ambassador; and Yasmine ladies and men I’ve ever had the privilege of getting to know. Tsamados, wife of the great Greek Ambassador. A whole lot of other The long break I’ve had to take really gave me time to think about talented, well worth knowing friends also dropped by, including former what an exciting life I’ve had, traveling all over this exotic would of ours, Tokyo American Club President Lance Lee and his son Lance Jr., baseball getting to meet lots of celebrities and interesting people from all walks of guru Wayne Graczyk, Segafredo Espresso owner (Japan and Asia) Brian life, and really having what friends told me was at least three lifetimes’ Mori, top art collector and gallery group president Norman Tolman, worth of truly great experiences that few people have had the privilege of Australian film producer Georgina Pope, the Weekender’s Asi Rinestine, enjoying while they’re here. Alec Jordan, Liam Ramshaw, and Nick Adams, the multi-talented Steven It’s been almost forty years since I started writing “People, Parties, Haynes, Dutch entertainment personality Rene Bosman and his super Places,” and bragging at bit, 35 years that I’ve worked on making first the wife Takako. Others included Bangladeshi prize-winning chef Ravi with Lexington Queen club, and later the New Lex Tokyo club in Roppongi. Both his wife Tonumi and brother Indica, the young actors Hide Kusakari and of them were known the world over as the places for spotting celebs of all “Key West,” who took time off their busy schedules to visit several times, kinds, and they almost always visited the clubs when they were in town. military man Joe Sweeny, who returned to Japan after several years in Sorry to say, but the Roppongi club scene has really changed. Check out Hawaii, and as well as Keiji Oda, founder of Guardian Angels Japan. my Facebook. As Roman Adrian Gybriwsky wrote in his book Roppongi Other special—very special—friends in my life who visited the Crossing it looks like the Mori company, Mitsui, and the many museums hospital often included the Saitama business tycoon, Ceremony President and upscale restaurants in Roppongi are really pushing on making the Tsukasa Shiga (we’ve been friends about 40 years) and his wife Anna, and neighborhood much more classy. Along that line, I’m trying to figure out Father Grimm, who’s given me, and I’m sure many others, much needed why they’ve made the main streets of Roppongi narrower, and impossible and great spiritual guidance. He’s a trained journalist who’s publisher to park on. I have some friends checking it out and from what I’ve heard, of ucanews.com, the news agency of and for the church in Asia. He’s it was for President Obama’s visit at the end of April. not a Franciscan, but he often helps out at the Franciscan Chapel Center

MAY 2014 www.tokyoweekender.com PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES | SOCIETY | 29

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Bahrain’s National Day Reception Imperial Hiroyuki Suzuki’s Photo Exhibit—Grand Hyatt 1. Oman Ambassador Mohammed Al-Muslahi, wife of Bahrain Ambassador Dr. 7. U.S. Minister-Counselor Mark J. Davidson, fashion designer Junko Koshino, wife of Yoshiko Hatakeyama, Abeer Aishi, Bahrain Ambassador Dr. Khalil Hassan 2. Dr. the Prime Minister, Akie Abe, Pasona Pres. Yasuyuki Nambu 8. Polish counselor Tomarz Khalil Hassan and his wife, Dr. Yoshiko Hatakeyama 3. Bahrain 3rd Sec. Ahmed Miklaszewski, his wife Keiko, Polish Ambassador Cyryl Kozaczewski 9. Photographer Alteraifi, his wife Shaima 4. Algerian Ambassador Sid Ali-Ketrandji, his wife Amal Hiroyuki Suzuki, his wife Junko, Abe-san, and Le Velvets vocal group 10. Connect Inc. 5. Palestine Ambassador Waleed Siam, Kazuyuki Hamada, Zimbabwean Ambassador Mg. Director Yoshi Kubodera and his wife Rosanna, Toys ‘R Us P.R. Director Sarah Tapp, Harold Stuart Comberbach, Kuwaiti Ambassador Abdulrahman Al-Otaibi 6. Colorful Grand Hyatt G.M. Antonio Alvarez 11. Mori Building Exec. VP Hiroo Mori, Hiroyuki Japanese dance group livens up the night. Suzuki the photographer, architect Paul Noritaka Tange 12. ANA Deputy G.M. Katsuhito Nishihori, Antonio Alvarez.

www.tokyoweekender.com MAY 2014 30 | SOCIETY | PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES

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The Bilals Celebrate Qatar’s National Day Europubs’ Trevor Allen, and Neil Day 7. Swedish Ambassador Lars Vergo, E.U. Ambassador 1. Dewi Sukarno with Qatar Ambassador’s wife Jamila Bilal 2. Peninsula Hotel G.M. Hans-Dietmar Schweisgut, Estonian Ambassador Toivo Tasa, Ministry of Finance Jun Malcolm Thompson, Qatar Airway’s Takako Tsujimori, and Peninsula Exec. Yamada 8. Popular politician and Mrs. Kazuyuki Hamada with Kathleen Neary White 9. Irish 3. Ambassador Bilah and Mori building Sr. Advisor Yoshio Karita 4. Amal Ketrandji Ambassador to Japan John Neary, Prime Minister Enda Kenny, Bill 10. Head of Security for (Algeria), Alexandra Tsamados, her mother Yasmine (Greece). Louis Vuitton, James Moynihan and his wife, Hiroko.

The Irish Prime Minister Comes to Tokyo U.S. Ambassador Caroline Kennedy’s Red Sox Party 5. Tokyo Inn owner Norimasa Nishida, former Cultural Affairs commissioner Seiichi 11. Baseball superstar Hideki Matsui and baseball journalist Wayne Graczyk. 12. So Taguchi’s Kondo, Compact Imaging’s Declan Collins 6. Eire Systems’ Matthew Connolly, Ikon championship rings.

MAY 2014 www.tokyoweekender.com PEOPLE, PARTIES, PLACES | SOCIETY | 31

celebrating mass and assisting with other ministries. I also learned that opening speeches. Hiroyuki’s wife, world famous fashion designer Junko one of Japan’s famous heart surgeons, Mitamura-sensei, had come up from Koshino was also there, of course. his hospital in Tachikawa to pay me a visit. If you follow the column, you know I have the privilege of having one NEARY’S PARTY FOR THE VISITING of our city’s most active families—Bill and Charo Ireton and their truly IRISH PRIME MINISTER exceptional kids, Matthew, William, Thomas, Roberta and Edward—as It was a power-packed evening when Irish Ambassador John Neary and friends for many years. They are international, interesting, involved in his wife Kathleen hosted a reception at the Okura to welcome the Taoisech all kinds of worthwhile activities, religious, charitable, and believe me, so (Prime Minister of Ireland), Enda Kenny, to Japan. The outgoing and truly supportive. These are the kind of people we all need as friends. There just personable Prime Minister was here in response to an invitation extended isn’t enough space to go through what they and so many friends did to help by Prime Minister Abe during his successful visit to Ireland in June 2013. me get through my medical crisis. God bless them all. Other special guests that evening included First Minister Peter Robinson Another friend really added class and glamour to the already classy and Deputy First Minister Martin McGuinness who were in Japan on a trade and glamourous visitors. I’m talking about TV personality Dewi Sukarno mission, as well as Irish Minister for Agriculture, Food and the Marine, who, in her super chic red dress and matching red shoes, looked like she Simon Conveney, who accompanied the P.M. on his visit. stepped right off the cover of Vogue. I introduced Dewi to several of the The Irish P.M. and the other VIP’s key objectives were to further increase nurses, and really appreciated her kindness to them—and they, of course Irish trade, economic and political relationships with Japan, and to explore were really thrilled to meet her. Dewi is a very special lady. Don’t judge her potential areas for future collaboration between Japan and Ireland. Mr. by her fame as a popular TV star: much of her fame is her “made for TV” Kenny spent two days in Tokyo and traveled to Nagoya and Osaka to meet personality that’s a bit like Paris Hilton. In truth she’s a caring, giving lady. with Japanese and Irish business leaders there. Happy to report his meetings In closing this long (gomennasai!) opening to the column, my thanks with Prime Minister Abe and Osaka governor Matsui were very successful. to a very special guy—National Azabu’s Dale Toriumi. Dale’s Canadian- The ambiance at the Okura event was excellent, with the Prime Minister really Japanese and is always busy helping the popular store’s international and going all out to meet, talk, and pose for photos with the many people there. local customers find whatever they want from all over the world. Even though he was super busy with inventory as well as his many regular QATAR’S NATIONAL DAY duties, he took time out to drop by the hospital many times during my Qatar Ambassador Yousef Bilal and his wife Jamila went all out to make a six weeks’ stay there. He was unbelievably helpful, and I’ll never forget glittering reception for their country’s national day reception. The venue, it. I also want to thank his friends, including Kari, who helped so much in the Imperial Hotel’s huge Peacock Room, was full of interesting people from making it all easier for me. all walks of life, and the lavish buffets of Arabic, Japanese and Western foods Looking back I realize how many people, parties and places I had were beautiful and bountiful. The Ambassador’s wife had worked with the to miss. These included Sakura Time, several diplomatic happenings, hotel staff on setting up a large Arabic-style lounge where guests could really the Rolling Stones and Bruno Mars concerts, and more. They also enjoy the festive celebration. included sayonaras for several of just about everyone’s favorite diplomats: Colombian Ambassador Patricia Cardenas and Zimbabwean INDIAN AMBASSADOR DEEPA Ambassador Harold Stuart Comberbach and his dynamic wife Bicky. GOPALAN WADWHA’S FESTIVAL Patricia, who’s been in Japan seven years, and her Minister of Foreign To celebrate India’s 65th Republic Day, a festival was held at The Okura. It Affairs Maria Angela Holovin were at the people-packed party to honor was an exciting get-together with great Indian food, traditional dancing and the job she did here and say adiós to the lady we all loved. Her first a colorful kaleidoscope of fantastic Indian fashion. The highlight for me was priority is setting up the wedding of her daughter Maria Paula in Bogotá receiving a work-of-art invitation to the wedding party (four days in New as soon as she’s back home. Delhi), which included a musical evening, a traditional ceremony, and the wedding of Joyota and Amil ’s daughter Tanya to Kristopher Brown. I’ve HIROYUKI SUZUKI PHOTO EXHIBITION been to Indian weddings—they’re unbelievably beautiful. So sorry I had to It was a very special evening at the Grand Hyatt, where a lot of really miss this one! Big congratulations to the and the newlyweds; I heard it interesting people showed up for noted photographer Hiroyuki Suzuki’s was all really very special. latest exhibition. He’s really gained fame over the last few years with his A few weeks later Ambassador Wadwha hosted a sakura-viewing party creative monochromatic photos of enormous construction sites the world on the terrace of the Indian Embassy—one of Tokyo’s most beautiful places for over. This exhibition is titled “The Next Level: A Dynamic Original the much-cherished tradition. Collection of Photos of the Grand Central Terminal in New In closing, our congratulations to long-time friend York and Tokyo Station.” Special guests that evening included Taishin Kohirumaki, three-time Japan K-1 Champion. Prime Minister Abe’s wife Akie and U.S. Minister Counselor He recently opened a very upscale gym in Ebisu: for Public Affairs, Mark J. Davidson, who both made excellent Tel. 03-6450-5072.

Citibank’s Naresh Narayan and his son Aadi at National Azabu National Azabu GM Tomoya Nakamura and culinary artist Machiko Chiba

www.tokyoweekender.com MAY 2014 32 | MOVIES | GODZILLA

By Christopher O’Keeffe

odzilla, The King of Mon- and Nagasaki brought about the end of the obvious use of miniatures, and the scenes sters, is as distinctly Japa- Second World War, the first Godzilla was an of destruction rendered so starkly in black nese as samurai and sushi. embodiment of the country’s fears regarding and white still carry a hefty punch today. G For generations, the exploits the lasting effects of radiation and the use of Godzilla is ultimately destroyed, but only of the giant lizard have atomic weapons. Unleashed by the power of through the use of a controversial weapon offered a glimpse, however fictionalized, a nuclear explosion, Godzilla rose from the of unspeakable destruction, one so deadly into the world and culture of Japan. He has ocean depths, giant in size and dinosaur-like that its inventor sacrifices himself so the risen from the radioactive depths to be- in appearance, causing destruction and secrets of his weapon can never be discov- come a pop cultural behemoth, appearing terror on an unstoppable march towards the ered and used again—a fitting end for a in films, television series, computer games, Japanese mainland. Akira Kurosawa regular film that raises serious questions about the and toys that have been released over the Takashi Shimura (Ikiru, Seven Samurai) plays destructive capabilities of modern science years, and making cameos in everything palaeontologist Dr. Yamane, who argues and man. from The Simpsons to South Park. Despite against the killing of the monster, while the Of course Godzilla would have been the iconic status of the star saurian and government and military unsuccessfully just “Gojira,” a purely Japanese star, if he his frequent portrayal in later incarna- attempt to end the devastation left in the wasn’t able to capture the foreign market. tions as a heroic defender of the earth, the monster’s wake. Director Ishiro Honda made With a trick that would be employed creature’s original incarnation was a much the film a very obvious metaphor for the throughout the series, 1956 saw the darker creature indeed, a fable of the fears horrors wrought by the nuclear bomb and original film recut for American screens, and frustrations of a post-war Japan. the scenes of the mutant reptile flattening with new explanatory scenes filmed with In 1954, less than a decade after the the city of Tokyo and turning buildings to ash an English-speaking actor and dubbing atomic bombs dropped on Hiroshima with his atomic breath were created with the over the rest, making the film palatable for effects of nuclear weapons in mind. The film Western audiences at the time. The result, left quite an impression on audiences at the Godzilla, King of the Monsters! created a time and the film became a huge commer- star who would one day have his name on cial success. Despite the film’s dated effects, Hollywood’s Walk of Fame. there’s a charming quality about the very Despite his apparent demise at the end of the first film, the radioactive mega-liz- ard couldn’t be held down for long and returned a year later for a hurried sequel, Godzilla Raids Again. This would prove to be the first of many sequels with an ever-changing cast of new and returning villains. During the Showa Era, Godzilla did battle against the likes of Hollywood legend

Still from ゴジラの逆襲 [６０周年記念版] (Godzilla Raids Again, 60th Ann. ed.) Copyright Notice: 1955 TOHO CO., LTD. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. Price of the DVD: 2,500 yen + tax | Manufactured & Distributed by TOHO. CO., LTD MAY 2014 www.tokyoweekender.com nitially told he looked a little young for the role of Takashi in Godzilla, Ken Yamamura thought his chance of appearing in Gareth Edwards’s sci-fi adventure had all but gone. So he I decided to give an influential casting director named Yoko Narahashi a call to see if there was anything she could do. Responsible for introducing the likes of Ken Watanabe and Rinko Ki- kuchi to Western audiences, she is arguably the most powerful Japanese per- son in Hollywood and last year gave Yamamura his big break in Wolverine. If anyone could help, surely it was her. “Straight away she said ‘come in on Thursday, you’ve got an audition,’ just like that,” Yamamura tells Weekender. “It was the same role I thought I’d been turned down for! I couldn’t believe it. Without her help I’m sure it wouldn’t have been possible; I can never thank her enough for what she’s done. Still from 怪獣大戦争 [６０周年記念版] (Invasion of Astro-Monster, 60th Ann. ed.) Since their meeting Narahashi has cast Yamamura in two Hollywood Copyright Notice: 1965 TOHO CO.,LTD. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. Price of the DVD: 2,500 yen + tax | Manufactured & Distributed by TOHO. CO., LTD blockbusters, first as the young Ichiro Yashida in Wolverine and more recent- ly as scientist Takashi in Godzilla. Both roles have given him the opportunity King Kong, three-headed golden dragon King Ghidorah, an to work closely with the movies’ leading men—Hugh Jackman and Bryan evil robot version of himself named Mechagodzilla and Mo- Cranston—two actors he holds in high regard. thra, a bizarre moth-god. Godzilla’s popularity was such that “They are real professionals, but at the same time don’t act like big stars,” the kaiju genre of giant monster movies remains an enduring Yamamura says. “Hugh [Jackman] was completely down-to-earth, while I legacy to this day, with Toho bolstering their ranks with solo saw Bryan (Cranston) as a kind of uncle type figure, always wanting to give outings for the likes of Godzilla regulars Mothra and Rodan me advice. I knew him from Breaking Bad, but it was only I when I saw him and imitative attempts from rival studios such as the popular close-up I realized he was Hal from Malcolm in the Middle. Gamera films from Daiei. It’s been a privilege to have appeared in scenes with both of them. I also As time went on, the series moved away from its darker feel very fortunate to have been part of these two huge productions. I remem- origins into more child-friendly territory. Godzilla gradually ber watching X-Men and Godzilla when I was younger: I even bought Godzilla changed from a force of destruction to a benevolent protector, figurines. I never dreamt I would actually be starring in it.” saving the earth from the menace of alien invaders and angry “I think he can do anything,” Narahashi tells us. “He’s so bright and en- monsters. The transformation from city-crushing terror to co- ergetic, yet at the same time never over-acts or tries to be something he isn’t. medic hero was completed by 1967 with Son of Godzilla, which His qualities were evident right away—I just felt he was someone audiences saw the mighty lizard adopting a baby son and teaching it the would empathize with. “It was just so easy and refreshing to audition him. Sometimes you worry skills a monster needs to survive in 60s Japan. This Showa Era about passing actors over to a director because they may face a long haul to of films had run their course by the mid 70s, and in 1984 a re- get them taped. With Ken, however, I felt completely confident that he could boot was launched, one that took the monster back to his an- always get it in two, maximum three takes. On top of all that, he speaks fan- tagonistic city-leveling origins and kickstarting the Heisei era tastic English and is a great guy, which counts for a lot.” of films that would run until 1999 when the series would be High praise indeed. Narahashi, who certainly knows what it takes for a rebooted again with Godzilla 2000. Hollywood even attempted Japanese actor to succeed in Hollywood, clearly has a lot of faith in - its own full-blown treatment of the Japanese legend in 1998, a mura. She believes we will be seeing him in many more feature films in the much maligned effort from writer-director Roland Emmerich future and with a track record like hers, who are we to disagree. that failed to capture the look or spirit of the original. This summer will see the second American attempt at reimagining the great beast. Brit director Gareth Edwards, By Matthew Hernon the man behind excellent low-key indie hit Monsters, has promised a film that brings back the dark, gritty aspects of the original and, crucially, is much more faithful to the original design of the monster. With the terrible recent events at the Fukushima nuclear power plants, worries about the effects of radiation and questions about man’s ability to harness and control the power of nuclear energy have once again been brought terrifyingly to the forefront of everyday life in Japan. In such a climate it almost seems fitting that once again, Godzilla rises to issue a stark warning that there are still ele- ments of nature that remain beyond man’s control.

www.tokyoweekender.com MAY 2014 MOVIES COMING TO A CINEMA NEAR YOU IN MAY

MAY 30 X-MEN: DAYS OF FUTURE PAST ast month saw a summer of superheroes kick off with big-budget Lsequels in the form of The Amazing Spider-Man 2 and Captain America: The Winter Soldier. This month director Bryan Singer returns to the X-Men universe for the first time since 2003’s X2, arguably the best in the series and one of the most accomplished superhero films to date.X-Men: Days of Future Past is hugely ambitious in scope, combining returning characters from the first trilogy of films along with those from X-Men: First Class, which featured of Charles Xavier and Magneto in their younger days. Based on a classic Uncanny X-Men storyline from 1981, the various members of the X-Men teams from the past and present must join forces to prevent a nightmare future from coming to pass. The huge cast includes Hugh Jackman’s Wolverine, Michael Fassbender and Ian McKellen as Magneto, James McAvoy and Patrick Stewart as Professor X, Jennifer Lawrence as the shape-shifting Mystique and Halle Berry as weather-witch Storm. New to the lineup is everyone’s favorite Game of Thrones star Peter Dinklage as Bolivar Trask, an industrial scientist who creates mutant- destroying Sentinel robots.

MAY 10 INSIDE LLWEYN DAVIS MAY 10 ny film from the Coen Brothers, the duo behind classics as varied as The A Big Lebowski, No Country for Old Men, O Brother, Where Art Thou, and Fargo deserves a mention. This time the brothers have returned to the comedy-drama format to document a week in the life of a folk singer from the 1961 New York folk scene. Inside Llweyn Davis is written, directed and BLUE JASMINE edited by the pair and stars Oscar Isaac in A2-B-C the title role, supported by Carey Mulligan, oody Allen is best known for ver the past few years there has been the excellent young actress from Drive and his films in the 70s, particularly a lot of work released about the events The Great Gatsby, and Coen regular John Manhattan and Annie Hall, but the of 3/11, particularly documentaries W Goodman as a heroin-shooting jazz musician. O director has been hugely prolific throughout covering the disaster and its impact. A2-B-C It’s loosely based on the life of folk singer his career, having released a film a year focuses on the aftermath of the meltdown at the Dave Van Ronk, and the soundtrack features since 1982. He has recently been hitting his Fukushima Daiichi power plant and its effect interpretations of many of his songs. stride again and his latest, Blue Jasmine, has on the people living in the area surrounding the garnered considerable praise, particularly plant. American-born documentary filmmaker for the central performance of Cate Blanchett, MAY 31 Ian Thomas Ash shot the film eighteen months which earned the actress awards at the Oscars, after the disaster, while getting to know the Golden Globes and BAFTAs, among others. families within Fukushima. Parents are scared, Blanchett plays Jasmine, a former New York upset and concerned about their children’s socialite who moves to San Francisco after future as schools deemed “safe” reopen, while losing all of her money. She tries to start a new medical checks reveal that some of their life with her sister, Ginger (Sally Hawkins), but children are suffering from thyroid cysts and Jasmine is the architect of her own demise as other medical problems. Particularly revealing her shallow, superficial assessments of the are the reactions of the children who have people around her fail to bring her, or those grown used to living in a world haunted by the close to her, happiness. constant fear of radiation.

MAY 2014 www.tokyoweekender.com EXPAT LIFE | WEEKENDER | 35

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www.tokyoweekender.com MAY 2014 AGENDA MAY 1

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5 AGENDA: THE WEEKENDER ROUNDUP OF WHAT’S HAPPENING IN MAY

1 MAY 17–18 2 MAY 10 3 MAY 24–25 4 MAY 31–JUN 1 Kyary Pamyu Pamyu Panda Music Festival Greenroom The Caribbean and Latin The pop idol is once Tame enough for the Festival 2014 American Street Festival again in the midst of an whole family, the third Jimmy Cliff, Xavier Infectious Caribbean beats international tour; catch her and her edition of this music Rudd, Gabrielle Aplin and Donavon will provide the soundtrack for this colorful costumes in her home turf. festival welcomes picnickers. Kids Frankenreiter are headlining this “save mishmash of food, drinks, dance and Where: Zepp Tokyo, Odaiba under 12 get in for free. the beach” art and music festival. elaborate costumes. How Much: ¥4,300 | Time: 17:00 Where: Ueno Park Where: Yokohama Red Brick Warehouse Where: Yoyogi Park | How much: Free More info: www.kyary.asobisystem.com How Much: ¥2,500 | Time: 13:30 How Much: ¥9,500 (1 day)/¥16,500 (2 days) More info: www.tokyoweekender.com More info: www.pandaongakusai.com More info: www.greenroom.jp

5 MAY 16–18 6 MAY 23 7 MAY 17–18 8 MAY 16 Sanja Matsuri Bonjour Tokyo Thai Festival 2014 A-Trak The biggest (and Singles Party Kick-starting yet another The Canadian best known apparently wildest) Get ready to mix and season of summer festivals for his work with Kanye festival in Tokyo returns with its mingle...and maybe make a romantic at Yoyogi, this favorite returns with West will be manning the turntables plethora of portable shrines and connection during the slow dance its delectable selection of Thai fare, and showing off his mixing skills. countless people milling about. activity. Admission includes one drink. drinks and music. Where: Vision, Shibuya Where: , Asakusa Where: Tokyo Salon, Omotesando Where: Yoyogi Park, Shibuya How Much: ¥3,500 (men)/¥2,500 (women) How Much: Free How Much: ¥2,000 How Much: Free More info: www.vision-tokyo.com More info: www.tokyoweekender.com More info: www.bonjourtokyo.com More info: www.thaifestival.jp

MAY 2014 www.tokyoweekender.com MAY | AGENDA | 37 MAY

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ENJOY A JUICY, FLAME-GRILLED, 9 MAY 17–18 10 MAY 9 AMERICAN TENDERLOIN STEAK. COOKED Design Festa vol. 39 Yo La Tengo Japan The bi-annual Tour The New Jersey JUST HOW YOU LIKE IT AND SERVED international freestyle art trio has managed to WITH 2 SIDES OF YOUR CHOICE. festival promises to be bigger than keep an intact lineup, putting out ever this time around, with more the same delightful indie beats than 11,000 participants registered. since 1984. FOR A LIMITED TIME ONLY! Where: Tokyo Big Sight, Odaiba Where: EX Theater Roppongi (Available Until June 30th) How Much: ¥1,000 (1 day)/¥1,800 (2 days) How Much: ¥6,000 | Time: 19:00 More info: www.designfesta.com More info: www.smash-jpn.com

11 MAY 30 12 MAY 10 Afrojack Nina Kraviz The superstar Dutch pro- More than a skilled ducer is releasing his first DJ and producer, the full-length album, and celebrating Russian artist also sings and has with an extravaganza that includes recently making waves in the un- Australian DJ Havana Brown. derground electronic music world. Where: Studio Coast, Shin-Kiba Where: Womb, Shibuya How much: ¥10,000–¥15,000 How Much: ¥3,500 | Time: 22:00 More info: www.creativeman.co.jp More info: www.womb.co.jp

www.tokyoweekender.com MAY 2014 BACK IN THE DAY: MAY 1989 Check out the scene in Tokyo from 1989! You can read the rest of this issue (No.19 1989) and view Weekender’s 42-year archive online. www.tokyoweekender.com/weekender-archives/ çLçêÉäÉTÉCÉY_full.pdf 1 24/04/2014 10:20

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