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When It Comes to Full-Bodied Reds, Quality Sherries and Delicious Dessert Wines, Southern Spain Has Enough Stars to Populate a Small Galaxy

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When It Comes to Full-Bodied Reds, Quality Sherries and Delicious Dessert Wines, Southern Spain Has Enough Stars to Populate a Small Galaxy When it comes to full-bodied reds, quality Sherries and delicious dessert wines, southern Spain has enough stars to populate a small galaxy. BY MICHAEL SCHACHNER mong Spanish wine regions, it is the northern From the dry plains of La Mancha east to the Moriles and sweet Moscatels from Málaga. and exquisite balance. have a winemaker that understands the grape names—Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Toro, sea-kissed Levante and down through historic It used to be easy to dismiss southern Spain “I don’t accept that the south is overly chal- varieties and the terroir, you can make fine Bierzo and Rías Baixas, among others— Andalucía, southern Spain is home to most of as a sprawling, sun-baked land responsible for lenged,” says Xandra Falcó, general manager wine. It’s always more a matter of who is behind that regularly draw the flashy headlines. the country’s top wines made from lusty varieties mostly subpar wines with high alcohol, odd of her family’s Dominio de Valdepusa, which the wines than where they come from.” However, if big red wines, fortified wines like Syrah, Monastrell (Mourvèdre), Garnacha or raisiny flavors and poor balance. Although makes wine under the Marqués de Griñón label To simplify southern Spain, think of it as in myriad styles and traditionally crafted (Grenache), Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. southern Spain’s hot, dry climate still produces from vineyards near Toledo in La Mancha. being divided into three regions. The biggest sweet wines get your mouth watering, It’s also where one finds Spain’s best fortified and many chunky, baked, sometimes wacky-tasting “Every region in the world has its good and most amorphous subsection is south- then it’s the south of Spain that merits dessert wines: dry Sherries from Jerez, luscious wines, it also yields jewels that boast size, wines and its bad ones,” she says. “If you care central Spain, which includes La Mancha, attention. Pedro Ximénez-based wines from Montilla- powerful flavors, finely roasted earthy nuances for your vines, control your macerations and Valdepeñas and smaller Denominaciónes PHOTO JON VAN GORDER 76 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012 WineMag.com | 77 Levante de Origen (DOs) like Almansa, Méntrida, the bishops, rooks and knights often used to fill Manchuela and Utiel-Requena. Mostly, these out blended wines. Far left, brothers Pepe and Julián are wines made from Tempranillo, Syrah, Finally, Andalucía is the land of sweet Mendoza of Enrique Mendoza in Alicante; left, Felipe Gutiérrez Cabernet Sauvignon, Bobal and Garnacha, and fortified wines made from Moscatel, de la Vega, maker of Fondillón either as single-varietal wines or as blends. Palomino and Pedro Ximénez grapes. Sherry, To the southeast, in the direction of the in its myriad forms, is the top dog among Mediterranean, is the Levante, home to Andalucían offerings, given its centuries of “It’s fermented using whole regions like Jumilla, Yecla, Bullas, Valencia and history and a dedicated global following. But Monastrell clusters in open-ended my personal favorite, Alicante. In the Levante, both Málaga along Spain’s southern coast and barriques, punched down by hand,” Monastrell is king, while international varieties inland Montilla-Moriles are noteworthy for he says. “It’s not fortified, but the like Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot are their golden-colored dessert wines. end product resists oxidation, and its high acid and tannin levels balance the moderate alcohol and high residual sugar. It is the natural expression of the land, in which South-Central Spain Tucked into the southeast corner of Spain is the some raisin character is appropriate.” Levante, which draws its name from a prevail- Enrique Mendoza’s Santa Rosa Reserva, a ing easterly wind that begins near the Strait of blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah, Gibraltar and grows stronger as it enters the highlights just how good international varieties open Mediterranean. can be in the Levante. The 2006 is not showing The Levante is Monastrell country—both any hints of oxidation or overripeness. dry and sweet. But Cabernet Sauvignon, which “The Santa Rosa Vineyard was planted in can handle the region’s warm climate, has been 1984 with the intent of making a great wine,” coming on strong in recent decades, primarily as says José “Pepe” Mendoza, winemaker and a component in blends. Syrah, too, has found a vineyard manager. “In the Mediterranean, we home in the Levante. have to search for sites where the vines won’t Bodegas Gutiérrez de la Vega’s Casta Diva shut down [because of extreme heat and sun La Mancha alone sports approximately 1.24 Fondillón, a sweet Monastrell hailing from old exposure]. We’ll go as high as 700 meters to get million acres of vines, so variation in quality, as vineyards in the inland Sierra de Salinas area, the freshness we seek.” you might imagine, is enormous, ranging from exemplifies the potential of the variety when While the sweet Fondillón goes best with downright awful to excellent. grown in this region. blue cheeses or chocolate, Santa Rosa Reserva At their best, south-central Spain’s red “Fondillón is released with a minimum of 10 can be paired with game—perhaps venison wines are lush, dark in color, full bodied and years in cask,” says Steve Metzler, an expert in or wild boar served with a berry sauce or wine loaded with rich, slightly baked and earthy Spanish wines and the wine’s American importer. reduction—grilled beef or bison. flavors supported by firm tannins and healthy Atalaya 2010 Alaya Anciano 2005 Reser- acidity. When pairing with food, go with old 90 (Almansa). This smells 87 va (Valdepeñas). Mild standbys like Manchego cheese and roasted or of baked black fruits, coco- red-fruit aromas set up a palate grilled meats. nut, vanilla and char. Flavors of with red plum and raspberry fla- blackberry liqueur and cassis are vors, finishing clean and slightly Bodegas Gutiérrez de la Vega 1999 El Nido 2009 Clio (Jumilla). Opaque, with backed by generous oak tones. complex. It’s nice to find a val- 97 Casta Diva Fondillón (Alicante). Fon- 92 a bouquet sealed tight by toasty oak, tobacco, It’s a robust wine, made from ue-priced Tempranillo with five dillón represents the pinnacle of red Spanish dessert cola and baked, minty aromas. It’s saturated but not Garnacha Tintorera. Gil Family years of aging before release. wines. Subtle but expansive on the nose, this has a syrupy, with roasted, savory flavors of clove, nutmeg, Estates. Well-Oiled Wine Company. Best blend of dark fruit and cinnamon aromas. It delivers hickory and blackberry. 70% Monastrell and 30% Cab- abv: 15.5% Price: $35 Buy. excellent balance and flavors of roasted plum, black ernet Sauvignon. Gil Family Estates. abv: 15% Price: $11 cherry, nutmeg, raisin and chocolate. Drink now or abv: 15.5% Price: $45 Marqués de Griñon hold in a good cellar for another decade. 100 cases 90 2005 Summa Varieta- Atalaya 2010 Laya made. Classical Wines. Editor’s Choice. Rafael Cambra 2007 Dos (Valencia). lis (Dominio de Valdepusa). 87 (Almansa). Leathery abv: 16% Price: $88/500 ml 91 Aromas of kirsch, licorice, mineral and black- This modern-leaning blend of plum and berry aromas form a berry introduce a flowing palate with black fruit, spice Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon and nice opening as a minty choco- Enrique Mendoza 2006 Santa Rosa and chocolate flavors. This 50–50 blend of Cabernet Petit Verdot feels like a padded late note pops up. It feels spunky, 93 Reserva (Alicante). This smells exotic and Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc is easygoing, with a vise, with demanding tannins with rubbery tannins and flavors smooth, like sandalwood, baked berries and brandied smooth fade to the finish. Frontier Wine Imports. and blackberry, toast and coffee of plum, cherry, mint and herb. plums. On the palate, it feels firm and secure, with abv: 14.5% Price: $25 flavors. Winebow. Mostly Garnacha with some deep flavors of cassis and black cherry. A bullish red to drink now; 70% Cabernet Sauvignon with 15% each of Top, the Valdepusa vineyards in autumn; above, abv: 14.5% Price: $30 Monastrell. Gil Family Estates. Merlot and Syrah. Winebow. Editor’s Choice. Carlos Falcó, the Marqués de Griñón, and his Best Buy. BOTTLE PHOTOS JON VAN GORDER BOTTLE PHOTOS JON VAN GORDER abv: 14.5% Price: $50 daughter, Xandra abv: 14.5% Price: $9 78 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | NOVEMBER 2012 WineMag.com | 79 Andalucía Left, aging Sherry at Bodega Hidalgo in Jerez; below, ancient Moscatel de Alex- andria vines in Málaga it attitude generally applies to the richer, fuller styles of Sherry, be they sweet or dry olorosos, amontillados, palo cortados or PXs (Pedro Ximénez). Aside from Sherry, Andalucía features some outstanding fortified wines from Montilla-Moriles, which sits directly north and inland from Málaga, itself a source for fine sweet wines made from Sherries from the towns of Jerez de la Frontera, late-picked Moscatel. These are classic dessert Sanlúcar de Barrameda and Puerto de Santa wines, aromatic and richly textured but not María have, for centuries, been the driving cloying. Think fruit-based desserts and sharp force behind Andalucía’s wine culture. But as blue or aged cheeses for potential pairings. the wine world has evolved, the wines have With the dry Sherries, pair salty appetizers, drifted into the “acquired taste” category. soups and white meats topped with creamy Some people love the briny crispness of a sauces, especially if you are using that particular fino or manzanilla, while others reject them as Sherry to boost your stock or add character to too salty and sharp. That same take-it-or-leave- your sauce.
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