PHOTOGRAPHED BY JOHN AQUINO AT THE AUCTION HOUSE; MODEL: ANASTASIA K/MARILYN; HAIR BY RYAN TANIGUCHI USING TRESEMME; MAKEUP BY WILLIAM MURPHY AT DE FACTO USING MAC PRO; PHOTO ASSISTANT: TODD MATARAZZO; FASHION ASSISTANT: SARAH LIEBOWITZ; STYLED BY ANTONIA SARDONE Evening Belle skirt. For more,seepages6and7. Alexandra Vidal’sfrothysilktulleandchiffongownwithabelled dresses thatseemfi godmothers,creatingevening designers areemulatingfairy Cinderella storieshaveatimelessappeal.Andforspring,some ▲ — By SharonEdelson Fred toallthe Smith,wasaforerunner her mainstore17yearsago. that sheopenedaSanderboutiqueadjacentto designer Dresner withthemercurialGerman JilSander.States tocarry Sosuccessfulwas was alsooneofthefirststoresinUnited Martin MargielaandClaudeMontana.Hers Comme desGarçons,AnnDemeulemeester, to suchedgydesignersasYohji Yamamoto, morethantwodecadesinbusiness. after closing itsgildeddoorsattheendofDecember independent retailers. climate hasclaimedoneoffashion’siconic Succumbs toEconomy Park Ave. Retail Icon Dresner ChecksOut: NEWS: The store, which was designed by JW The store,whichwasdesignedbyJW Dresner introducedNewYork women Linda Dresner, afixture on Park Avenue, is WWD

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balls, page4. Bowl ofdebutante EYE: balls, page4. Bowl ofdebutante EYE: The Super The Super 2 WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 25, 2008 WWD.COM Retail Soars on Government Moves By Evan Clark and Kristi Ellis negative from stable. “The outlook revision is due to [Ann Taylor’s] WWDTUESDAY Ready-to-Wear/Textiles RETAIL SHARES POSTED THEIR SECOND- very weak third-quarter performance, includ- largest jump, rising 10.6 percent Monday and ing net sales that declined 12 percent from the FASHION outpacing the market overall, which was buoyed third quarter of 2007,” Jackie Oberoi, credit Designers are going for more elaborate looks, by a bailout plan for Citigroup Inc. and the for- analyst, said. ▲ 6 mal unveiling of President-elect Barack Obama’s Standard & Poor’s expects the company’s from evening blouses with ornate sleeves over economic team. soft performance to continue through the long skirts to full, crystal-accented ballgowns. The Standard & Poor’s Retail Index surged fourth quarter. GENERAL 23.59 points to close at 246.93. Fashion stocks, however, generally outper- Just last week, the index was testing new bot- formed the Dow Jones Industrial Average, which 1 Retailer Linda Dresner, an institution of elegant toms as investors sold off shares tied to consum- leapt 4.9 percent, or 396.97 points, to 8,433.39. and eclectic design on New York’s Park Avenue, is er spending. On Thursday, the index marked its Obama offi cially named Timothy Geithner as closing after 25 years. lowest close since its recalibration in June 2002, his pick to head the Treasury Department and EYE: The Bal Crillon des Debutantes, held annually and on Friday it established a new record low of Lawrence Summers to lead the White House 4 207.49 in intraday trading. Economic Council. at Paris’ stately Hotel de Crillon, can be called the “It’s probably a bear market rally, which are Today, investors will get a new reading on Super Bowl of debutante balls. very abrupt and generally short-lived,” Laurence consumer confi dence, as well as a look at third- 8 RTW: From on “Gossip Girl” to C. Leeds Jr., chairman of Buckingham Capital quarter results from American Eagle Outfi tters Nicole Miller on “Iron Chef,” fashion designers are Management, said. Inc., Charming Shoppes Inc., Chico’s FAS Inc., making TV their second calling. Even with Monday’s rise, retail shares are still The Talbots Inc. and others. down 37.9 percent over the last three months. The market developments came as Obama 9 TEXTILES: The maritime industry is concerned a “From all I can gather, business in retail named fi ve key architects of his economic re- raft of initiatives meant to improve port security America still seems extraordinarily difficult,” covery plan at a news conference in Chicago. On could slow commerce and increase costs. Leeds said. “I don’t meet many retailers who seem Saturday, the president-elect said he was devel- 10 Tommy Hilfi ger unveiled his fi rst denim store in very optimistic, and unemployment continues to oping an initiative to save and create 2.5 million Milan, a 3,200-square-foot unit overlooking the rise, household income continues to head south.” jobs in the next two years. buzzing Corso Buenos Aires shopping strip. Dramatic swings have become relatively com- Leading the economic team will be Geithner, mon in recent months as markets ride a monetary president of the New York Federal Reserve, who 12 U.K. retailers and the British government are and emotional roller coaster powered by the glob- was nominated as treasury secretary to steer offering a raft of incentives to entice reluctant al economic slowdown and continued uncertainty Obama’s initiatives. With the economic team shoppers during the holiday period. over the health of the fi nancial system. and Obama’s jobs plan expected to focus on con- 13 Accessories could give a boost to depressed sumer spending and middle-class retailers, who are pushing well-priced gift items jobs, retailers could get a boost, if Barack Obama in they hope will be holiday shining lights. Chicago on Monday. not in the fi rst half, then possibly in the second half of next year. Classifi ed Advertisements...... 15 Obama also named Summers, Geithner’s mentor, treasury sec- TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS retary in the Clinton administra- [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. tion, as director of the National WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2008 Economic Council. Christina FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. Romer, an economics professor VOLUME 196, NO. 112. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, October and December, two additional issues in March, April, May, June, August and at the University of California, November, and three additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division Berkeley, was selected to be di- of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services rector of the Council of Economic provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage Advisers. Melody Barnes, a senior paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. economic policy campaign ad- Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian viser and former chief counsel to addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS Sen. Edward Kennedy (D., Mass.), CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. 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Occasionally, we make our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services PHOTO BY BRIAN KERSEY/POOL VIA BLOOMBERG NEWS/LANDOV BRIAN KERSEY/POOL VIA BLOOMBERG PHOTO BY mer legislative director for Sen. that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please John Kerry (D., Mass.), is the new advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT The federal government’s plan to provide deputy director of the Domestic Policy Council. RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR Citigroup, a cornerstone of the banking world, Richard Yamarone, chief economist and di- ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER with $20 billion in fresh capital and to guaran- rector of economic research at Argus Research MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY tee $306 billion in questionable assets removed Corp., said the team and Obama’s emerging eco- WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE a huge question mark that had been weighing nomic stimulus plan are positives for retailers. ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. down markets. “What we do know is that a big number is Apparel vendors joined in the rise, as well, with being fl oated around, and that is a very posi- Jones Apparel Group Inc. and Liz Claiborne Inc. tive sign that they are not going to do this piece- DAILY Creative people each making up large chunks of ground lost last meal,” he said. “Obviously, we have the greatest week. Shares of Jones rose 30 percent to $3.81, and credit crisis of our lifetime, so it is good to know QUOTE “have been doing TV Claiborne’s stock ascended 29.6 percent to $2.32. that you will have one of the biggest stimulus Both stocks had been beat up particularly packages ever to try to rectify the situation.” hard as investors fretted over consumer spend- He acknowledged that none of the moves cameos since Andy Warhol appeared ing, weak department store sales and fi nancing being made by the president-elect will help re- agreements that expire next year and have yet tailers for holiday or the fi rst part of next year. on ‘The Love Boat.’ to be renewed. “The holiday season is pretty much written ” Among the other vendors, The Warnaco off.…Retailers are looking forward to getting — Cynthia Rowley on designers making Group Inc.’s stock jumped 16.8 percent to $15.79, this economy righted in the fi rst and second frequent TV appearances. Page 8. and Polo Ralph Lauren Corp. was up 13.3 per- quarters, depending on how fast they can imple- cent to $40.83. ment the ideas,” Yamarone said. CORRECTIONS The retail rally was second in magnitude only Obama is already working with Democratic • Donald Graham is chief executive offi cer and chairman of the to the index’s Oct. 28 jump of 13.6 percent, a per- leaders in Congress to craft the stimulus plan, Washington Post Co. Katharine Weymouth is publisher of The plexing day when investors plowed into retail which is expected to be far larger than the $175 Washington Post. This was incorrect in a story on page 4, Monday. despite news that consumer confi dence had hit billion package he proposed on the campaign an all-time low. trail. Obama is urging Democratic leaders, who • St. John’s new better contemporary line is called SoCa. Its name Among the companies starting the week with will enjoy wider majorities in Congress when was incorrect in a story on page 1, Monday. strong stock increases were Charming Shoppes they reconvene on Jan. 6, to pass a package be- Inc., up 39.5 percent to $1.20; Hot Topic Inc., 27.4 fore his inauguration on Jan. 20. percent to $7.48; Nordstrom Inc., 25 percent to Some analysts and lawmakers have suggested $9.76; Abercrombie & Fitch Co., 19.2 percent to the package could cost between $500 billion and An image TODAY ON $17.45; The Men’s Wearhouse Inc., 17.1 percent $700 billion. Obama declined on Monday to put from Hussein to $10.27; J.C. Penney Co. Inc., 16.4 percent to a price tag on the proposal. Chalayan’s $17.62; Macy’s Inc., 16.2 percent to $6.66, and The plan will include billions of dollars for spring 2008 WWD Coach Inc., 13.2 percent to $16.68. public works projects to repair the country’s collection. Dillard’s Inc. stock rose 7.9 percent to $3 after aging bridges and highways and other infra- .COM cutting about 500 positions from its staff in a bid structure, tax cuts for low- and middle-income to reduce operating expenses. taxpayers and new funds to promote green tech- • Featured images The stock market rush wasn’t enough, though, nology and alternative-energy resources. from WWDScoop to push all retail issues up. The economic appointees “all bring brain- • More on Tommy AnnTaylor Stores Corp.’s stock fell 7.7 percent power to the table and a real deep understand- Hilfi ger in Milan to $4.46. Debt-rating agency Standard & Poor’s ing of how the economy works and what we need reaffi rmed the retailer’s credit rating at “BB- to do to fi x it,” said Gus Faucher, director of • Global breaking news

minus,” but changed its outlook on the grade to Macroeconomics for Moody’s Economy.com. CHRIS MOORE PHOTO BY • Daily stock prices WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 25, 2008 3 WWD.COM Linda Dresner to Close on Park Ave. Continued from page one minimalist retail spaces in Manhattan by John Pawson and The Linda Dresner others. Smith, who was not a trained architect, neverthe- store on Park Avenue less specialized in minimalist design. The store was clean and 59th Street. but not austere and modeled after an art gallery with no extraneous color or furnishings to distract from the clothes. A rectangular bronze-fi nished table displays jewelry and a black box, which acts as an architectural element, hides ducts, stereo speakers and stairs to the basement. Dresner’s diverse clientele includes Gloria Vanderbilt, Corine Roitfeld, Wendy Murdoch, Uma Thurman and . Jacqueline Onassis and her daughter-in-law Carolyn Bessette Kennedy were also among the shop’s more notable customers. “Jackie felt the store was a calm haven for her,” Dresner recalled. “She used to sit quietly in the dressing room and have a little lunch. Then, in her wonderfully sweet soft voice she would look around and say, ‘Oh, it’s all so beautiful.’ She bought occasionally. She didn’t undress. She bought a very classic raincoat. She liked watching women trying things on and looking in the mirror and would say, ‘I wish I could wear things like that’ about styles that were a little more out there.” The 3,400-square-foot store, which is on the corner of 59th Street, did sales of $800 per square foot to $1,000 per

Jackie felt the store was a calm“ haven for her. She used to sit quietly in the dressing room For more, see WWD.com. and have a little lunch. Then, in Linda Dresner her wonderfully sweet soft voice she would look around and say, ‘Oh, it’s all so beautiful.’ — Linda Dresner, on one” of her more famous customers over the years. square foot during the best of times, Dresner said. “We had very good volume,” she added. “There’s too much of everything right now. Would I open a store in New York today? No. Retailing has to be reconsidered. It’s become a commodity that’s less creative. There’s too many stores selling the same kind of merchandise and it’s not as beau- tifully chosen. It’s ruined the enthusiasm for fashion.” Dresner also operates a second eponymous boutique in Birmingham, Mich., her hometown, which will con- tinue to operate. “With these deep markdowns and the big stores having to regroup, it seemed useless [to stay open],” Dresner said. “In spite of the diffi cult economy, we still have clients in Michigan. There aren’t that many stores there as there are in New York. The Somerset Collection [an upscale mall in Birmingham with anchors such as Saks Fifth Avenue and Neiman Marcus] impacts my business. They have early sales. The audience that likes these clothes is large, but it’s not huge in Michigan. We JEFF COLLINS PHOTOS BY still have a strong signature. We can cope with the ups and downs easier in Michigan.” when they were still unknown. “We showed them in a Lanvin and Alexander McQueen gowns with fi ve-digit Dresner’s 10-year lease is coming to an end, and the signifi cant way, which was an integral part of our mix,” price tags to the wives of oil barons, was done in by the landlord has asked Dresner for an increase to renew. she said. “I’m most known for that mix. That was the downward economic spiral and dwindling stock portfo- She’s said she’s been paying around $500,000 a year, strong attraction. Twenty-fi ve years ago, these designers lios, which sapped consumers’ desire to shop. but declined to discuss the amount of the increase. “It weren’t so obvious on the landscape. I was early with Jane Mayle revealed she will exit the business she seems like the right moment,” she said. “The store is Yohji Yamamoto and bought and showed him in a sig- founded in 1998 and shutter her NoLIta boutique at 242 a beautiful place, and we made quite an impact. We’ve nifi cant way. I also bought Rick Owens early on.” Elizabeth Street in February. The economy, the chal- enjoyed a strong and good reputation.” Dresner began her career 30 years ago as a model in lenges of running a fashion business, debt and the in- Dresner, who is considered a visionary by many in Detroit. Before she had a chance to go to college, mar- ability to secure fi nancial backing can all be factors in the fashion industry, is known for her ability to spot in- riage and children came. In the Seventies, Dresner and the decision to close shop. Fassbinder, a jewelry gallery teresting designers before they become widely known. a friend, Hattie Belkin, opened Hattie’s in Franklin, on Eighth Avenue near Jane Street featuring the designs She buys collections differently than department stores, Mich., where they sold Yves Saint Laurent and other of some 20-plus artisans, shuttered during the summer. homing in on the most interesting and important pieces, haute designers in a tiny 300-square-foot space. After six Dresner is not saying goodbye to Manhattan forever. pulling a look together from various collections. years, the two women parted ways and Dresner opened “Maybe when the smoke clears,” she said. “I still feel cre- “I think of my store as a big closet,” she said. “I think a store with her own name on the door. ative and interested, and I love retailing. I feel very ambi- about putting clothes together as I would wear them. I “I got married at 17,” she said. “I didn’t have a formal tious and active. I can see that something else may come bought John Galliano in a younger more interesting way. college education.” Dresner opened the Birmingham, up. I’ll use the Internet a little bit more and we plan on Being early is one thing, but I also show the clothes in a Mich. store fi rst, in 1978, which was followed by the doing some private trunk shows in a showroom in New particular way. I’d put a Galliano gown with shoes that store at 484 Park Avenue in 1983. “In my innocence, I York. The business needs to be rethought and re-creat- don’t belong to Galliano and put a jacket or topper from felt like New York needed me,” Dresner said. “The only ed. It’s a time of refl ection and of change. I’ll take more another designer over the gown. I’ve mixed Margiela specialty store that existed at that time and seemed sim- chances when the climate feels more relaxed. I’m going with someone more dressed-up like Balenciaga.” ilar in some way was Martha. I felt like I had something to speak to the women who still want special clothes.” In some cases, Dresner tries to keep things pure. “I new to say. It was quite magical to be around beautiful Linda Dresner on Park Avenue will close on Dec. 31. rarely mix Comme des Garçons with anything,” she said. clothes. I’ve continued to enjoy it even through the ups “The store is on sale because we’ve had to be on sale be- “[Designer] Rei Kawakubo has a strong signature and is and downs of the marketplace.” cause of the other [retailers],” Dresner said. “We’re not exclusive enough that it still seems pretty special.” The latest ups and downs have been more diffi cult doing anything drastic. Anything that’s left we can take Dresner featured designers Tom Binns and Martine to weather. Nor is Dresner the fi rst specialty retailer to to the Michigan store.” The Park Avenue location has Sitbon very early on. Through the years she sold close as a result of the deteriorating economy and ag- seven full-time employees and Dresner said she’s help- Undercover, Toga and smaller Japanese designers, and gressive promotions waged by department stores. Mix, a ing them fi nd new positions. “The environment is not too carried Ann Demeulemeester and Martin Margiela highly regarded retailer in Dallas that sold Balenciaga, positive for people taking on new employees,” she said. 4 WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 25, 2008 WWD.COM

CALL IT THE SUPER BOWL OF DEBUTANTE BALLS. THE BAL CRILLON DES DEBUTANTES — HELD ANNUALLY AT Paris’ stately Hôtel de Crillon — brings together the daughters of heavy hitters from the worlds of politics, entertainment, art and fashion. Over the last 17 years, Lauren Bush, Amanda Hearst, Victoria and Vanessa Traina, Kathleen Kennedy, Lily Collins (daughter of Phil) and Olivia Pei (granddaughter of I.M.) have all made their debuts at the gala affair, which is single-handedly organized by Parisian p.r. maven Ophélie Renouard. On Saturday, 24 more girls, including Bruce Willis and ’s daughter Scout, will don couture confections (for which they are fi tted at least a month in advance) and baubles by event sponsor Adler Jewelry. Here, six of the standout participants. — Amanda FitzFitzSimonsSimons

SARAHSARAH MELLONMELLON Age:Age: 1616 HHometown:ometown: New York CitCityy INDIA OXENBERG Bloodline: Father is author James Mellon 2nd, of the banking Age: 17 family; mother is art restorer Vivian Mellon. Hometown: Malibu, Calif. Education: Junior at Manhattan’s Nightingale-Bamford School, the Bloodline: Mother is “Dynasty” actress Catherine Oxenberg; all-girls school rumored to be the basis for “Gossip Girl.” grandmother is Princess Elizabeth of Yugoslavia. Wearing: Education: Senior at Malibu High School. Escort: Boyfriend Leonard Vigden Wearing: J.Mendel All in the family: Older sisters Diana and Angela came out at the Escort: Boyfriend Hudson Franzoni, son of “Gladiator” screenwriter Crillon in 2003 and 2006, respectively. David Franzoni. Clothes call: Oxenberg, who is applying to culinary school in the fall, fl ew to New York sans parental supervision to pick out her dress at Mendel’s Midtown showroom. “My mom said, ‘Just fi nd something that accentuates your waist,’” says Oxenberg.

BILLIE LOURD Age: 16 Hometown: Los Angeles Bloodline: Mother is Carrie Fisher; father is Creative Artists Agency honcho Bryan Lourd; grandmother is Debbie Reynolds. Education: Junior at Los Angeles’ Harvard-Westlake School. Wearing: Escort: Classmate and boyfriend VICTORIAVICTORIA DE SILVASILVA Adam Maltz Age: 17 Father knows best: Lourd, whose Hometown: London extracurricular interests include Bloodline: Mother is Princess Katarina of Yugoslavia; father is guitar and piano, reported that Sir Desmond de Silva. her father helped her pick out her Education: Student at Heathfi eld St. Mary’s School, an elite all- gown. (It may not have hurt that he girls boarding school where Sienna Miller, Marisa Berenson and is friendly with .) Tamara Mellon are alumnae. OF ABACA PRESS RTESY Wearing: Alexander McQueen Escort: Rodrigo Olaechea, with whom de Silva is being set up by Crillon organizers. (Olaechea is related to Anne-Aymone Giscard d’Estaing, wife of former French President Valéry Giscard d’Estaing.) Fairy godmother: De Silva will be the fi rst girl in the ball’s history to wear Alexander McQueen, who offered to outfi t her out of friendship to her godmother, the late Isabella Blow. Having a Bal

SOKHNA N’DOUR Age: 16 Hometown: Dakar, Senegal Bloodline: Father is Senegalese pop singer Youssou N’Dour (who was described by Rolling Stone in 2004 as “perhaps the most famous singer alive” in Africa). Education: Dakar French High CHELSEA CHIARARA CHAUCHAU School, where she’s studying Age: 20 economics. Hometown: HonggKo Kongng Wearing: Bloodline: Father is Kevin Chau, executive vice chairman of luxury watch distributor Sincere Watch. Escort: Papou Ndiaye, friend of her Education: Sophomore at Stanford University. older brother, Biran. Wearing: Stéphane Rolland Role model: N’Dour fl ew to Sorbier’s Escort: Yet to be determined at press time. Paris showroom with her father and Snow bunny: Chau is an avid skier, routinely sneaking away from school to hit the slopes at brother in tow to select her dress. nearby Lake Tahoe. While there, she realized that her aunt had been a model for the designer years earlier. OXENBERG, MELLON AND LOURD PHOTOS BY OLIVIER DOULIERY; N’DOUR BY CHRISTOPHE GUIBBAUD; CHAU BY FREDERIC NEBINGER; ALL PHOTOS COU BY CHAU CHRISTOPHE GUIBBAUD; N’DOUR BY OLIVIER DOULIERY; PHOTOS BY AND LOURD OXENBERG, MELLON WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 25, 2008 5 WWD.COM

Sylvie Fleury’s Dom Pérignon FASHION SCOOPS Rosé glas. GOING TO boom in luxury goods was never going to last. She pointed FRAME GAME: Artist Sylvie Fleury, LACHAPELLE: Giving by David to “luxury fatigue” and the growing fear of debt, and said who has created a giant version the Mona Lisa a run LaChapelle. consumers would increasingly be spending more money on of a Chanel handbag and a cast for her money, a fewer items. As a result, “masstige and aspirational brands metal one for Louis Vuitton, is portrait of a crowned will suffer the most,” she told the audience, adding that the taking her tongue-in-cheek view Madonna clutching handbag bubble is bursting now. “An ‘It’ handbag will become on fashion to a new zenith. On a thorny heart is one an embarrassment — a clear sign that you don’t have your own Friday, the artist is set to stage of some 200 images view of fashion,” she said. Among the trends that will fl ourish a fashion show at Thaddaeus by wacky snapper in coming years will be African style. “Barack Obama is bound Ropac’s Paris gallery for the David LaChapelle due to create an impact on fashion and style, and we’ll see a shift launch of her Dom Pérignon Rosé to be exhibited at the in emphasis to African culture,” she said. glass, smeared with a lipstick Hôtel de la Monnaie mark. Instead of handbags, the in Paris, Feb. 5 to GUYS AND DOLLS: It took a little longer to come to fruition than models will tote paintings that May 31. A new series of 3-D photo installations by the American originally planned, but a new Balmain men’s collection by its later will be hung in the gallery. Following the happening, a fi lm also will be unveiled during the show, his biggest ever in France. hot designer, Christophe Decarnin, is in view. The French house is of the show will be screened like a work of art. LaChapelle is expected to attend the opening. expected to unveil Decarnin’s fi rst fully-fl edged men’s wear effort in January at a presentation in Paris during men’s fashion week. RED ALERT: “I’m the real Wonder PEACHES GELDOF DRESSES UP: Peaches Geldof already has a Woman!” declared legendary Parisian magazine column, DJ gigs and a television show for MTV in the NEW MERCHANT ON THE BLOCK: Tom Binns is known for his nightclub owner Régine, who joined U.K. under her belt. So launching a clothing line was the obvious dramatic, iconic jewelry pieces for the likes of Jeffrey and Henri Marjane Satrapi and Clotilde Courau next step for the Brit girl-about-town, who has unveiled a 10-piece Bendel, but now the designer is fi nally getting a home of his Thursday night for the European capsule collection for the London label PPQ at Selfridges in own. The fi rst Tom Binns jewelry store is bowing on New York’s launch of Diane von Furstenberg’s London, made up of chiffon, velvet and lace dresses with a Gothic Perry Street, possibly before Jan. 1. No word yet on the design Wonder Woman collection in her Paris edge. “I’ve always been interested in fashion ever since I was or size of the place, only that, like the rest of his collection, it fl agship. “I’ve known Diane for years, a little girl playing dress-up,” said Geldof, who’s now based in will be anything but regular. since she was at school. We’re both Williamsburg in Brooklyn. And, while Geldof said the collaboration Capricorns; all Capricorns are Wonder came about through her scenester connections — she got to know ZILLI SKI STRATEGY: France’s Zilli, which bills itself as one of Women,” she said. Not yet ready to PPQ designers Percy Parker and Amy Molyneux “while dating a the world’s most expensive men’s wear labels, is heading for hang up her dancing shoes, the senior boy signed to their record label, the hills — some of the most exclusive ones, that is. Zilli said it after-dark diva disclosed she’s been

1234,” — the pieces are also would open its fi rst store in the jet-set ski resort of Courchevel DOMINIQUE MAITRE PHOTO BY working on a new album, “A Tout de Peaches inspired by her social circle’s in the French Alps. The 2,150-square-foot unit, which boasts Régine at the European Suite,” or “See You Shortly,” due for Geldof look, which Geldof said involves oak fi xtures and polished wood fl oors, is to launch Dec. 10. launch of Diane von release in January. “That’s how I’ve “a lot of black, white and lace. Skiwear features ostrich, crocodile and peccary skins and furs Furstenberg’s Wonder always signed my letters,” she said, The whole collection has a such as mink, chinchilla and sable. A handmade, down-fi lled Woman line. disclosing that Boy George is one of vintage feel to it, as I’m a big crocodile jacket for 95,000 euros, or $120,000, hits the haute many stars to have collaborated on the vintage buyer,” said Geldof. “I button down to its very last gold stitch. Zilli, which opened work. Also in the pipeline are two new scents, dubbed Régine and also looked at icons like Siouxsie its fi rst store in Cannes this month, counts seven fully owned Zoa by Régine, due out in March. Sioux and Robert Smith, and stores and around 30 franchised boutiques. The company’s took notes from Gothic novels sales, which reached 70 million euros, or $89 million at OVER THE RAINBOW: Hermès beamed a nighttime rainbow over like “Dracula” — the cape came current exchange, midway through this year, are expected to La Place de la Concorde in Paris Thursday during the fi rst Fete about while I read this.” Geldof exceed the 100 million euro, or $126 million, mark next year. de la Couleur, or Festival of Color, to celebrate the International said she expects the project to Day of Children’s Rights. Pink and orange lights danced in span “at least several seasons,” EISNER BABY: Alice + Olivia founder and creative head Stacey trees in the Tuileries garden while guests jazzed up outfi ts with and her spring collection is Bendet and her husband, Eric Eisner, the son of former Walt an orange Hermès scarf here or a pink-feathered hat there. in production. Disney Co. chief executive offi cer Michael Eisner, welcomed Initiated by Hermès, whose Faubourg Saint-Honoré boutique was their fi rst baby, a girl, on Monday morning at Mount Sinai illuminated pink and orange for the occasion, partners included CLAIRE’S CRYSTAL BALL: Not long from now, the “It” bag — Hospital in Manhattan. Eloise Brekenridge Eisner was born at MAC cosmetics whose makeup artists daubed bold color onto and the 4x4 — will be a source of embarrassment, masstige 9:59 a.m. on Monday and weighed in at 9.5 lbs. willing partiers. Guest of honor, rising French actress Léa Seydoux, brands will suffer and African style will be all the rage. Those said she’s just wrapped fi lming Quentin Tarantino’s remake of were just a few predictions from Claire Kent, the former Morgan MODEL CITIZENS: Etam, the 92-year-old French fashion chain, “Inglourious Bastards” in Berlin, in which she plays a farmer. “The Stanley luxury analyst who is now an industry consultant and has tapped model as its fi rst campaign muse, clothes were pretty unattractive,” she said. Seydoux spent part of a non-executive director of French Connection in London. with shooting scheduled to begin over the next few days. Rumor her childhood in Senegal, where funds raised from the evening’s Kent, speaking at the Luxury Briefi ng conference in London has it that model-turned-photographer Astrid Muñoz could be auction, which included Bettina Rheims photographs of children, last week, said with or without the credit crunch, the 15-year the pretty face behind the camera. will go to UNICEF’s school projects there. Dell’Acqua Kicks Off High-End Line More Y’s Mandarina Duck on Display in Hong Kong

MILAN — Italian designer Alessandro By Constance Haisma-Kwok Adrienne Ma Dell’Acqua is launching a high-end capsule collection called Alessandro Dell’Acqua Black HONG KONG — The economic gloom is hovering Dress that will be readied for pre-fall 2009. over retailers here, but Adrienne Ma’s fledgling The image the name conjures is exactly company, Amma Holdings Ltd., is forging ahead. what the project is about — 20 black dresses It has opened a second Y’s Mandarina Duck with a day-into-evening appeal. It will be shop here, in a 1,500-square-foot fl agship in presented to retailers in Dell’Acqua’s Milan Central’s luxury mall, IFC. showroom from Wednesday through Dec. 12 The minimalist store, with steel fl oors, birch- and will be in stores next May. wood blocks and three fl uorescent papier-mâ- “For this project, I truly believe in study- ché “display” trees that showcase handbags, ing and structuring each dress on a manne- carries a full range of products from both the quin to better delineate the silhouette and Y’s Mandarina Duck and Mandarina Duck col- to study the details that have a modern cou- lections. The former is a result of the Italian ture feeling,” Dell’Acqua said. luggage wear’s collaboration with designer Dell’Acqua, who recently toned down the Yohji Yamamoto. steam and ramped up the quality of his signa- “We wanted to show off categories galore,” ture line, said he wanted to exalt a woman’s said Adrienne Ma, chief executive offi cer of femininity and sensuality. Amma, who remains upbeat about opening in His fans with a weakness for black can in- diffi cult times. “In retail we have to plan six dulge in a wool crepe A-line shift adorned with months ahead, so it’s not easy to predict, but I’m a Chantilly lace bustier and ruffl es, for exam- happy because these are products that won’t go ple, or raise the va-va-voom bar with a wool out of style, and people will always need bags for ottoman evening gown featuring an ostrich- travel,” she said. feather neckline and silk bejeweled fringes. Although Ma declined to project sales for

Most styles are inlaid with an elasticized the new shop, she said business at the fi rst GARETH JONES PHOTO BY band that is used to demarcate a neckline or Y’s Mandarin Duck store, which opened in mold an hourglass shape. September, is steady now that they have adjust- all. I got out at the best time.” In the beginning, the capsule will be sold ed the merchandise mix. Karim Azar, assistant general manager of in 60 upscale sales points worldwide, such as “We expected there would be a lot of travel leasing at IFC, confirmed that the new Y’s Selfridges in London, Harvey Nichols in Hong customers, but in fact the men all want the mes- Mandarin Duck shop has a three-year lease Kong, Isetan in Tokyo and Florence’s Luisa senger bags and the women want handbags, so and said other brands will make their debuts at Via Roma. we have changed the categories a bit,” she said. IFC over the next few months. Moncler, another Average retail prices span from 700 Joyce Ma, matriarch of Hong Kong fashion Amma brand, will open its fi rst store in Asia in euros, or $900 at current exchange, to 1,000 and Adrienne Ma’s mother, attended the open- three weeks, and a slew of footwear brands are euros, or $1,300. First-year sales projections ing and said she does not miss the business. set to open, including Giuseppe Zanotti, Cole were unavailable. “Especially in this climate,” she said. “I was so Haan and Bally. Steve Madden opened its fi rst — Alessandra Ilari A look from the line. lucky, I had a great career, but I don’t miss it at shop here just weeks ago. 6 WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 25, 2008 Grand Ideas Simple slips and columns aren’t the only styles in town. Some designers are going for more elaborate looks, from evening blouses with ornate sleeve treatments worn with long skirts to full-blown, crystal-accented ballgowns. — Antonia Sardone

Gustavo Cadile’s silk chiffon and tulle ballgown with crystals. WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 25, 2008 7 WWD.COM

Roland Nivelais’ Douglas Hannant’s iridescent silk silk gazar gown. taffeta gown with pearls and sequins.

Michael De Paulo’s rose-print silk and cotton gown. WILLIAM MURPHY AT DE FACTO USING MAC PRO; PHOTO ASSISTANT: TODD MATARAZZO; FASHION ASSISTANT: SARAH LIEBOWITZ SARAH ASSISTANT: FASHION TODD MATARAZZO; USING MAC PRO; PHOTO ASSISTANT: DE FACTO WILLIAM MURPHY AT

Notte by Marchesa’s silk charmeuse gown with an embroidered waist.

Zang Toi’s silk gazar blouse with lace trim and silk faille skirt. Shoes by Christian Louboutin. PHOTOGRAPHED BY JOHN AQUINO AT THE AUCTION HOUSE; MODEL: ANASTASIA K/MARILYN; HAIR BY RYAN TANIGUCHI USING TRESEMME; MAKEUP BY USING TRESEMME; MAKEUP BY TANIGUCHI RYAN HAIR BY K/MARILYN; HOUSE; MODEL: ANASTASIA THE AUCTION JOHN AQUINO AT BY PHOTOGRAPHED 8 WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 25, 2008 WWD.COM Ready-to-Wear Report Lights, Cameras and Designers By Rosemary Feitelberg “To some degree, we’re already there,” he said. “That willing suspension of disbelief and READY FOR THEIR CLOSE-UPS? DESIGNERS idea that we sit behind a fourth wall — that is don’t even need to be asked. being quite eroded.” Television has discovered them, and vice versa. Whether that happens or not, “Gossip Girl” In most cases, show producers have come plans to feature more designers down the road. knocking, but designers have a lot to gain in That Lively and co-star Leighton Meester are terms of brand exposure and buzz. While it’s red-carpet regulars should only make those hard to quantify what boost TV appearances give connections easier, Savage said. “They have to designers’ businesses, there’s no question they personal relationships with designers and that offer tons of free publicity, which often can help defi nitely makes those conversations easier. It sell designers’ products. And in this economy, also creates a real seamlessness between the TV that’s no small thing. world and our heightened reality. The fact that It’s practically impossible to turn on a TV the girls exist in both spaces works well for us.” without seeing a designer. In the last month Celebrity dressing helped Badgley and Mischka alone, Michael Kors, whose featured role in wind up on the Nov. 20 episode of “Ugly Betty.” “” raised his business and per- “We dressed America [Ferrera] when she sonal profi le, turned up at a fashion show on won her fi rst Emmy,” Badgley said. “We really “Gossip Girl” on The CW network. liked the people on the show and they asked us In addition, Tory Burch, Cynthia Rowley and to do it. We thought, ‘Why not?’” Marcus Wainwright each dropped by “Stylista” What was supposed to be a two-hour taping Michael Kors in a scene on CW. , Oscar de la Renta and Peter in a Wall Street bank turned into 11 hours, but from “Gossip Girl” with Som welcomed Bravo’s “The Project” they made the most of it. Having trailers with a Tinsley Mortimer and to their respective showrooms (after de la Renta’s star on the door and their names — just like a Cristina Cuomo. appearance, traffi c to his Web site doubled) and real Hollywood A-lister — helped. “It was really Mark Badgley and James Mischka played them- fun.” Badgley said. “We thought they were fi lm- selves on an episode of the ABC hit “Ugly Betty.” ing ‘Gone With the Wind.’ There were so many people. Marc Bouwer is onboard as a judge for the next They shot everything at a million different angles.” season of “Project Runway.” Taking the trend to a new But it was well worth the effort. He and Mischka forum, Nicole Miller, an avid foodie, will serve as a received about “a thousand” e-mails Friday, and many guest judge on “Iron Chef ” next year. NBC’s new show guests at a Saks Fifth Avenue breakfast and in-store ap- “Chopping Block” will have an episode devoted to her pearance in Naples, Fla. mentioned it. culinary talents. “The reach of those shows is crazy,” he said. “Fashion In addition to “Stylista,” Rowley’s on-air résumé and Hollywood are so complementary these days. Any time you do any celebrity dressing, a TV show with a fun fashion slant or any of that stuff, it’s major for name recognition.” Badgley and Mischka have already lined up their Any time you do any celebrity next gig. They will appear as celebrity guest judges on “ the fi nale of Lifetime’s “Blush: The Search for the Next dressing, a TV show with a fun Great Makeup Artist” on Dec. 16. Som is also getting his name out there in an unex- fashion slant or any of that stuff, pected way. He has taped an interview about Fifties fashion that will be part of the extras featured on the it’s major for name recognition. DVD for the second season of AMC’s hit, “Mad Men.” ” The show’s producers approached him, since one of his — Mark Badgley, Badgley Mischka collections was inspired by that period. When Burch appeared as a guest judge on “Stylista,” includes “Project Runway” and “Tim Gunn’s Guide to a reality show on which contestants compete for a ju- Style” on Bravo, and CW’s “America’s Next Top Model,” nior editor job at Elle magazine, two million viewers and HGTV’s “Design Star.” She’s even played a designer tuned in. The designer noted she is friends with Elle’s on NBC’s “Law & Order.” She would love to see a celeb- creative director, Joe Zee, and fashion news director rity “Project Runway” where well-known designers face Anne Slowey, who appear on the show, as well as Robbie off against each other. Martha Myers, editor in chief. “Creative people have been doing TV cameos since Stewart “Elle is incredibly supportive of me and I would not Andy Warhol appeared on ‘The Love Boat,’” Rowley with Isaac hesitate to support them right back,” Burch said. “I was said. “Also, fashion makes for great TV — it’s vi- Mizrahi. a little tentative at fi rst. But I knew it would be sually exciting, it’s glamorous, it’s creative, it’s great for our business and the show centered on stressful and it’s torturous…sometimes.” our tunic dress.” When Kors appeared on “Gossip Girl” last Her performance could have ripple effects month, fi ve million viewers were tuned in via TV on sales, considering the silhouette had already and online, or later downloaded the episode. And “blown out” of stores before the show aired, said how he wound up in front of the camera refl ects Burch, and tunics are basics in her collections. how entwined the fashion and entertainment Martha Stewart recently chatted with Isaac worlds have become. Mizrahi and Ralph Rucci on her talk show, and Executive producer Stephanie Savage de- she plans to welcome more designers next year, scribed Kors as “a perfect storm of interest.” with Vera Wang being at the top of the list. Last Earlier this year, “Gossip Girl” actress Blake year she even arranged for Valentino to cook his Lively, a regular on Manhattan’s party circuit, favorite pasta dish and Arnold Scaasi unveiled became friendly with him. In addition, Savage a new dress collection. said she and the show’s writers are “huge fans of Lisa Wagner, supervising editorial producer ‘Project Runway,’” so when the fashion show epi- of A&E’s “The Martha Stewart Show,” said, “It sode called for a well-known designer, they thought did seem like a little bit of a departure to all of Kors, as did Lively, who made the request. of a sudden have Martha having designers on Even before the episode aired, many view- the show. But it is not unlike having the great- ers had caught wind that it was in the works and est chefs and really fi ne craftspeople. Designers were buzzing about it online. “It was a small coup have been a really great addition to the show.” for the show,” Savage said. Joe Zee, Anne Slowey Stewart also seems to be ready to expand the Viewers can count on seeing more celebrity and Tory Burch grading guest designer trend by one dimension. After walk-ons in the months ahead, largely because contestants on “Stylista.” reading an article about how Millard “Mickey” designers realize they are advancing their craft Drexler has turned around J. Crew, Stewart was as a discipline, said Stephen Masiclat, a New eager to have him on her show. He opted not to Media professor at Syracuse University. appear, but Stewart will continue to pursue individuals “Frankly, if you listen carefully, designers are posi- NUMBER OF HOURS who interest her and viewers. tioning design services as services that will enhance a While Nicole Miller’s love of food and cooking made business’ value,” he said. “We’ll see much more of that THE AVERAGE AMERICAN doing the two cooking shows an easy decision, the presi- going forward. Designers getting out more and taking WATCHES TV EACH DAY. dent and chief executive offi cer of her company, Bud parts on reality shows is part of maintaining their mind IN A 65-YEAR LIFE, THAT Konheim, said, “The most meaningful opportunities for share. Designers want consumers to not only ask for a us are those focused on design and fashion — that make brand, but to ask for them by name.” PERSON WILL HAVE a direct line connection from Nicole and our product to It is only a matter of time before shows plug guest SPENT NINE YEARS fashion media, customers and retailers.” designers’ Web sites and clothing worn by talent at the GLUED TO THE TUBE. But her fashion responsibilities trump everything. end of a segment in the same way that some already pro- — A.C. NIELSEN CO. “The fi rst question we always ask is, ‘When do you need mote the music that aired, Masiclat said. But that kind of her?’, because she wants to be in the design studio at the marketing will lessen the entertainment quota. 4 important times and not be distracted from her work.” SHOW STEWART ANDERS KRUSBERG/THE MARTHA BY RUFINO/THE CW; STEWART GIOVANNI PHOTO BY KORS WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 25, 2008 9 WWD.COM Textile & Trade Report Global Labor Violations Cited in Report By John Zarocostas GENEVA — Textile and apparel labor leaders and work- ers were among the victims of human rights violations last year, including assassinations, assaults and arbi- trary dismissals, for trying to exercise their basic rights, a global study said. The annual survey by the International Trade Union Confederation that covers violations in 138 countries also lists other serious breaches related to textile and apparel companies, many in export processing zones, in Bangladesh, Cambodia, China, Sri Lanka, Peru, Honduras, Turkey, Morocco, Lesotho, Mauritius, Jordan and Egypt. Export processing zones, or EPZs, include free trade zones, special economic zones, bonded ware- houses, free ports, customs zones and maquiladoras. There were 91 trade unionists murdered worldwide for defending workers’ rights, and systematic harass- ment and intimidation was reported in 63 countries, the report said. “Repression of legitimate trade union activities contin- ued unabated in every continent,” said Guy Ryder, ITUC secretary-general. “Governments have failed to do enough to protect workers’ rights, either at home or in their inter- national diplomatic, economic and trade relations.” The report by the ITUC, a Brussels-based group rep- resenting 168 million workers in 155 countries, with 311 national affi liates, including the AFL-CIO, concluded: /LANDOV RAHMAN/REUTERS RAFIQUR PHOTO BY “The globalization of the world economy and conse- Employers in Bangladesh were cited as being hostile toward unions. quent fi erce competition between countries and compa- nies for a share of the export markets continues to put Workers continue to be missed in November 2007 for belonging to a union, the strong pressure on labor markets, working conditions “ study said. The factory makes clothes for Nike, Anvil and and workers’ rights.” threatened by employers with the National Football League in the El Porvenir EPZ. The trend across the globe, the report said, “has been “The dismissed workers put pressure on the com- for labor legislation to be amended in order to attract enterprise relocation, outsourcing pany by blocking the factory entrance, work stoppag- investments rather than to improve protection of work- es and occupying the regional labor offi ce,” said the ers’ rights.” It cited Vietnam and Morocco as examples. and downsizing, with inevitable report, adding that these actions were brutally sup- “Workers continue to be threatened by employers with pressed by the police and armed forces, which had enterprise relocation, outsourcing and downsizing, with negative consequences. been called by the company, with workers arrested inevitable negative consequences,” the report stated. ” and assaulted. However, after negotiations, the sacked In Bangladesh, employers have been consistently — ITUC report workers were rehired. hostile toward unions, many from the apparel sector, In Peru, antiunion campaigns are waged by many and “signifi cant antiunion discrimination, including textile companies, the report said. Fibras Industriales harassment, intimidation and dismissals” were direct- Trade unionists were also dismissed in apparel blocked the initiation of collective bargaining, and at ed at workers’ leaders, the report said. Union leaders plants in Cambodia, the report said. At the Hong Da gar- Topy Top, management resorted to “selective dismiss- in the apparel sector were “routinely harassed verbal- ment factory, a member of the Cambodian Federation als to stop the workers complaining about the long ly and physically, beaten, suspended and fi red for pur- was fi red days after being elected union president at working hours, the dismissal of union leaders and non- suing union activities. Most employers operated with the factory and was only reinstated after intervention compliance with the payment of social benefi ts,” the total impunity.” by national and international union bodies. report said. The AFL-CIO’s American Center for International In Honduras, 58 workers at the Star maquiladora — a The study also concluded that in Lesotho, foreign em- Labor Solidarity also faced harassment from factory that imports materials and equipment on a duty ployers, mainly textile groups, from South Africa, Hong Bangladesh’s police and army intelligence despite being free and tariff-free basis for assembly or manufacturing Kong and Taiwan, generally “ignore national legislation legally registered to operate in the country. and then reexports the fi nished product — were dis- and pay wages below the statutory minimum.” THE FIBER PRICE SHEET Ports Seek Review of Security Initiatives The last Tuesday of every month, WWD publishes the By Rachel Brown Robinson also said she believes 10+2 is a political pawn in the 100 percent scanning deliberations. Last year, current, month-ago and year-ago fi ber prices. Prices LONG BEACH, Calif. — The maritime industry is voicing Congress approved and the President signed into law listed refl ect the cost of one pound of fi ber or, in the concerns that policy initiatives to boost port security a mandate that all cargo be scanned before it is loaded case of crude oil, one barrel. could slow the flow of goods and increase costs. onto ships headed to the U.S. by 2012. A pilot program has Speakers at the Maritime Security Expo, held Nov. 18 been instituted at foreign ports in Pakistan, the U.K. and and 19 at the Long Beach Convention Center, stressed Honduras, but 100 percent scanning is facing rising oppo- FIBER PRICE ON PRICE ON PRICE ON the need for the maritime industry and government to sition from trade organizations and foreign countries. 11/24/08* 10/27/08 11/26/07 work together to achieve a balance between trade and The Government Accountability Offi ce issued a re- security issues. With the world’s economies gripped by port this year citing nine major challenges to the pilot fi nancial turmoil, speakers said the potential costs of program and, ultimately, the success of 100 percent Cotton 37.70 cents 46.75 cents 65.63 cents implementing an increasingly complicated web of regu- scanning. Challenges centered on the use and owner- lations could impair global commerce. ship of data, workforce planning, reciprocity concerns, Wool $2.25 $2.31 $3.93 The 10+2 security initiative, which requires an logistical feasibility, technology infrastructure, resource importer to provide information about cargo prior to availability and a lack of information about foreign port Polyester staple 79 cents 92 cents 85 cents being loaded onto ships bound for the U.S., generated cargo examination procedures. particular attention during the conference. Under the At the expo, attendees and panelists said 100 percent rule, carriers must submit “10+2” pieces of informa- scanning was unrealistic and should be shelved until Polyester fi lament 68 cents 81 cents 78 cents tion. The numbers refer to two data elements required greater cooperation between the U.S. and foreign gov- from carriers, including a vessel stow plan used to ernments is achieved. Oct. Synthetic PPI 117.8 122.9 114.2 transmit information about the physical location of It is unknown what position President-elect Barack loaded cargo and information about container move- Obama will take on the matter. However, Obama joined ment, and 10 from importers. U.S. Customs and Border eight other senators last year in pressuring Wal-Mart Crude Oil $49.93 $64.15 $98.18 Protection asserts that 10+2, now slated to go into ef- Stores Inc. to support the scanning legislation. fect in about three months, will help it better identify “The 100 percent scanning debate is going to drasti-

* THE WOOL PRICE IS BASED ON THE AVERAGE PRICE OF AUSTRALIAN WOOL FOR THE high-risk shipments. cally increase in the new Congress, and it is going to be WEEK ENDED NOV. 21 OF 11 DIFFERENT THICKNESSES OF FIBER, RANGING FROM 18 Catherine Robinson, director of the National interesting to see the line the President will draw,” said MICRONS TO 30 MICRONS, ACCORDING TO THE U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE. Association of Manufacturers, argued that the new Robinson. “In the next year, there’s going to be several INFORMATION ON COTTON AND POLYESTER PRICING IS PROVIDED BY THE CONSULTING measure would disrupt supply chains and could cause different alternatives that are going to emerge.” FIRM DEWITT & CO. THE SYNTHETIC-FIBER PRODUCER INDEX, OR PPI, IS COMPILED delays of two to fi ve days. She called for a pilot program Regardless of the outcome on 100 percent scanning, BY THE BUREAU OF LABOR STATISTICS AND REFLECTS THE OVERALL CHANGE IN ALL to assess the impact of the additional data collection be- members of a panel on managing supply-chain security SYNTHETIC-FIBER PRICES. IT IS NOT A PRICE IN DOLLARS BUT A MEASUREMENT OF HOW PRICES HAVE CHANGED SINCE 1982, WHICH HAD A PPI OF 100. OIL PRICES REFLECT fore the program is widely rolled out. and the fl ow of commerce stressed that enhanced trans- LAST WEEK’S CLOSING PRICE ON THE NEW YORK MERCANTILE EXCHANGE OF FUTURE She said the initiative “is the costliest rule that will parency is inevitable. CONTRACTS FOR LIGHT, SWEET CRUDE OIL TO BE DELIVERED NEXT MONTH. be implemented during the George W. Bush presidency,” “Greater visibility can really help both performance and “a lot of the costs that will arise from 10+2 have not and cost saving,” said Dan Prieto, vice president of been considered.” homeland security and intelligence at IBM. 10 WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 25, 2008 WWD.COM Tommy Does Denim in Milan Walgreens Returns to Times Square By Faye Brookman By Alessandra Ilari NEW YORK — Much like the drugstore’s jumbo electronic billboard that illu- MILAN — Economic scenarios aside, Tommy Hilfi ger thinks you can’t go wrong with denim minates Times Square, Walgreens’ newly opened flagship here — which is a and T-shirts. major reappearance to the neighborhood for the retailer — shines a spotlight With that notion in mind, the designer on Monday unveiled his fi rst denim store here, on the chain’s focus on beauty. a 3,200-square-foot unit with 10 arched windows overlooking the buzzing Corso Buenos Just off the escalators to the second fl oor of the three-level, 16,000-square- Aires shopping strip. “Rich or poor, young or old and regardless of size and heritage, foot store is the brightly lit L’Oréal Paris boutique. Measuring 320 square feet denim is for everyone and a staple,” said Hilfi ger, sitting in a vintage moss green leather in size, the L’Oréal concept includes slide-out shelves, product testers, fl oor-to- armchair in his new space. “It will always be a necessity, even with a crisis.” ceiling visuals, streaming video and L’Oréal-trained beauty advisers. The shop also features a new decor The site at One Times Square, located on 42nd Street between Broadway that evokes Hilfi ger’s 1969 store in New and Seventh Avenue, marks Walgreens’ return to a historic location that the York called People’s Place, which also chain had occupied from the Thirties through the Seventies. The store is served as a rendezvous for musicians. I was inspired by the Walgreens’ 11th in Manhattan, and its 53rd unit across all fi ve boroughs, up “It’s a more global version of People’s “ from 35 two years ago. Place, but the music inspiration is fully rock and hippie movement The L’Oréal concept further solidifi es the long-standing relationship between blown out here,” said Hilfi ger. L’Oréal and Walgreens — Walgreens, now a $59 billion company, was one of the Modeled with unfi nished cement, of 1969, and this store is fi rst mass retailers to stock L’Oréal when the brand was imported from France. black steel fi xtures, pearl gray brick Catherine Lindner, Walgreens divisional vice president of marketing devel- walls and a vintage parquet flown the culmination of those opment, said L’Oréal had been a great partner to help Walgreens bring a new in from the U.S., the space is, in vision to beauty. Hilfi ger’s words, “part rock club, part years. “This store within a store has unique fi xturing,” Lindner told a group tour- diner, part art studio.” ” ing the location, “the only one of its kind in the world.” The walls bear signs of the de- — Tommy Hilfi ger L’Oréal tapped experts from Europe for the custom fi xturing, designed to signer’s rock infatuation with electric replicate upscale beauty displays found abroad. Within the boutique, there is guitars that are fi xed onto rusty metal a presentation table in the center, complete with a chair and a mirror, which grids, while posters of Elvis Presley, can be used to tout new items. David Bowie and the Rolling Stones It also allows for a comfortable and well-lit space for beauty make- are plastered here and there. overs. Walgreens beauty advisers, who man the entire department at all Towering over a curved wenge times, wear L’Oréal smocks and are trained on L’Oréal products, but also wood table with vintage stools is an advise on all beauty lines in the store. Among the L’Oréal products fea- unusual chandelier made of old mi- tured are Double Extend Beauty Tubes Mascara, Advanced Revitalift Anti- crophones whose grilles are replaced Wrinkle Concentrate Clinical Action and Skin Genesis Pore Minimizing by lightbulbs. Gel Cleanser. Hilfiger’s seventh denim unit in Lorraine Coyle, vice president of sales for the L’Oréal Paris brand, said the also carries footwear, bags, belts, concept’s design, which has been in the works for the last six to eight months, outerwear and watches. It’s housed in was to further elevate and develop the L’Oréal brand. a three-fl oor palazzo from the early “L’Oréal is the largest beauty brand in the mass class of trade,” Coyle said, 1900s and fans out on the ground fl oor, adding that the concept allows the company to give customers the full expres- while the fi rst and top levels accommo- sion of the brand. As for whether other boutiques are planned, she said: “We date a showroom and offi ces. First-year will watch this store, and take the best from it and spread the best to different sales forecasts were unavailable. parts of the country as we look to express our brand in this way.” That premium jeans are the store’s Near the L’Oréal display is Walgreens’ European skin care collection with purpose is clear from the moment lines such as Institut Arnaud – Paris and Red Water. The products share a low- customers step inside and are greet- profi le display unit with gift sets and naturally positioned brands. Adjacent to ed by a giant mirror, framed by caba- the display is a custom-made end-of-aisle display for Yes to Carrots, which was ret-style lightbulbs, fl anked by metal fi rst launched in the U.S. at Walgreens. shelves fi lled with stacks of folded Tommy The remaining beauty area stocks the major mass lines as well as Walgreens jeans. Between number of styles and Hilfi ger exclusives, including BioInfusion and Sally Hershberger hair care, which is washes, there are about 150 variations housed in a 3-foot salon hair care section. to fi t all palates. Walgreens’ area beauty supervisor, Joanne Libby, said she is amazed at the A capsule collection called Rock beauty business already being done by the store. “People are coming in, exper- Scene will join the range of offerings imenting with the items and buying. Many of the tourists come in and comment starting in December. It was presented how much more expensive the lines would be at home and they stock up,” she during the Bread & Butter trade fair added, referring to the salon brands. in July in Barcelona and is codesigned That said, a great deal of the store is devoted to products for travelers and with Hilfiger and Tommy Ramone, tourists, such as beauty products in travel sizes and even luggage and apparel. drummer of the Ramones. Its dis- — With contributions from Molly Prior tinct punk-rocker bent comes from black zipped leather jackets, printed T-shirts in black and white and faded For more, see WWD.com. skinny jeans. “I was inspired by the rock and hippie movement of 1969, and this store is the culmina- BEAUTY BEAT tion of those years,” Hilfi ger said, pointing to the leather-bordered denim curtains. “We like our stores to evolve, but this is the one we pushed the farthest in music terms.” Asked to highlight the differences between American and European denim consum- Pantene Unveils London Ads ers, Hilfi ger noted that the latter prioritize quality over price, but added that the U.S. Everyone likes a mystery. mentality is increasingly following suit. “All the denim here is designed in our European And for the past several weeks, headquarters with the best fabrics and washes in the world,” he said. “We spare nothing Pantene has treated women to a in terms of research and development [of the product].” dose of the unknown with its lat- Hilfi ger feted the ribbon cutting with a concert organized by his Hilfi ger Sessions est advertising campaign, “Salon music leg. Italian artists who performed at the De Sade disco club Monday night includ- Challenge,” which is meant to edu- ed Francesco Sarcina of Le Vibrazioni, Syria and L’Aura. cate women on a recent blind hair care challenge the brand held. The event saw 70 percent of partici- pants say they favored one brand in particular — out of fi ve used in An ad supporting Pantene’s latest marketing the wash-and-style challenge — campaign, “Salon Challenge.” whose name wasn’t revealed. On Monday, however, women learned via e-mail, TV ads and in-store dis- plays that the brand most of them fell in love with was Pantene, which went up against four leading salon brands sold at retail. Spots feature Stacy London of “What Not to Wear,” who is the newest spokeswoman for the brand. Freddy Bharucha, marketing director for Pantene, devised the idea to com- pete against salon brands after learning from Procter & Gamble’s research and development team how much they believed in Pantene’s formulas. “R&D was saying how [Pantene] is the best stuff out there. Better than any retail brands. I asked them if they would put their money where their mouth is, and they took on the challenge,” said Bharucha. At the heart of the challenge was driving home the point that Pantene com- petes with best-selling professional brands for a fraction of the price. “As we experience tough times in the economy, there was a value system in how much [consumers can] get from this technology and the brand. We don’t have the most fancy package. We have a pretty good package. But we know it’s the juice and the technology and what it does to her hair” that makes Pantene popular. London, said Bharucha, was a natural for the brand, as she is a passionate

PHOTOS BY SAKIS LALASPHOTOS BY PHOTO Pantene user. Also, she has “the image of being an honest, credible person.” Inside Tommy Hilfi ger in Milan. — Andrea Nagel WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 25, 2008 11 WWD.COM MEMO PAD THEY LOVE LA: Though publishers are turning a worried eye to the luxury advertising sector, The Versace matryoshka went to a mystery buyer for 36,000 euros. “They’re like my 31 the woes of the newspaper industry are older and greater, and newspapers are still looking children, I feel like I have a huge family,” Alyona Doletskaya, the Givenchy-clad editor of to their luxury glossies to bring up revenue. The Los Angeles Times’ effort, LA, launched in Russian Vogue, beamed as she surveyed the hall. September with 62 ad pages and has since both upgraded the paper stock (roundly booed Organizers excitedly promised a surprise guest, which turned out to be Campbell. Wearing at the launch) and found a new publisher. Valarie Anderson, who came from within the a little black dress and fur from Alexander McQueen, she strode in to fl ashing cameras paper, was replaced in mid-October by Penn Jones, who worked for many years at Time Inc., holding the hand of her Russian boyfriend, real estate entrepreneur Vladislav Doronin. with stints at In Style and who was also corporate sales director on the West Coast. He most Testino’s design for a doll, he said, would probably include nudity. That’s just the kind recently cofounded and ran a media sales fi rm he started, Virtus. of guy he is. “Some people say that everyone ends up naked in my pictures, as well.” The The November-December issue will have 69 ad pages, following a weaker October with fi nancial crisis was a frequent topic of conversation, though being down the road from the 48 pages, and among the fashion advertisers are , Dolce & Gabbana, Fred Kremlin also seemed to weigh on some guests’ minds. “The matryoshka reminds me of the Leighton and . The staff includes creative director Rip Georges, design and independent political institutions that are lacking in our country,” said Lebedev, a part- culture editor Mayer Rus (formerly of House & Garden) owner of Aerofl ot. Attracting almost as many glances and fashion director Lori Goldstein, who is fi tting in as the dolls was the outfi t donned by performance her commitments to the magazine with her existing artist Andrei Bartenev. Only the outlines of his facial styling career. features could be seen through the crimson sheath A spokeswoman for the Los Angeles Times said over his face, and there was a teddy bear hat on his earlier reports in The New York Times and elsewhere head. He explained: “I wanted to wear something red that the magazine would be put under the supervision today.” — Alastair Gee of the business department — which had raised concerns about the magazine becoming a glorifi ed PACO’S WOMEN: The lighter side of Paco Underhill, the advertorial — were inaccurate, and Jones said there keen-eyed, ironic critic of the shopping scene, will was still separation of church and state. Both Jones be on display in his forthcoming Simon & Schuster and editor Annie Gilbar answer to John O’Loughlin, book, whose working title is “The Female Factor: The president of the Targeted Media division that includes Worship of Goddesses.” Underhill, whose name was Hoy and Times Community Newspapers, whereas the often on the lips of fashion marketers following the previous version of the Los Angeles Times magazine 1999 publication of his book “Why We Buy,” believes was overseen by the editor of the newspaper. The women’s growing economic and social infl uence on September issue carries a disclaimer on the business- Bernard Rung, spending makes the time right for another look at side masthead: “LA is published by the magazine , catalysts for consumer purchases. “It’s meant as a staff of the Los Angeles Times and is a separate Alyona Doletskaya humorous look at an uncomfortable subject — how and independently edited publication from the Los and . the status of women is changing the world we live Angeles Times newspaper.” Depending upon whom in,” said the author, who is also managing director of you ask, moving LA out of the newsroom means consultant Envirosell. either that it’s being put out by people who know how to put out glossies, or that it frees The “Female Factor’s” narrative will examine the infl uence of women on a range of the magazine to put out advertiser-friendly (if not advertiser-dictated) content without purchases, Underhill noted, like fashion, houses and hotel bookings, to name a few. Alice compromising the newsroom’s standards. Mayhew — the Simon & Schuster editor who brought the feminist volume “Our Bodies, The Times plans to publish 11 issues next year. — Irin Carmon Ourselves” to the commercial marketplace in 1973 — acquired “The Female Factor.” Underhill anticipates it will be published by the house next fall or in spring 2010. Also EXPENSIVE TOYS: A doll for 33,000 euros. But what a doll. Half a meter tall, with a short in the hopper is a new edition of “Why We Buy,” which the author says he has “entirely black bob, black lipstick and an unusually shapely body for high fashion, it was Yves Saint rewritten” for a global economy, one increasingly shaped in cyberspace. Due out in January, Laurent designer Stefano Pilati’s take on the Russian matryoshka, or nesting doll. Its new Simon & Schuster says the updated version will evaluate what leading online shops such owner? Naomi Campbell. as Amazon.com and iTunes are doing right, doing wrong or could be doing better, and will Campbell, Mario Testino, Darya Zhukova, oligarch Alexander Lebedev and others attended review extraordinary shopping environments, from a South African mall with a wave pool for Russian Vogue’s 10th anniversary party in Moscow on Thursday. Thirty-one matryoshkas surfi ng to an indoor ski slope intended to draw people to a mall in Dubai. — Valerie Seckler from designers including Versace, and Ralph Lauren were offered in a charity auction. Crisis or not, they hauled in 706,000 euros. Giles Deacon presented a doll wearing bondage gear, with “Hellraiser”- style spikes sticking out of its head. Martin Margiela’s abstract design had partygoers cooing: It was simply painted white, with a black streak of paint on its head. Moschino made their matryoshka into a lamp, while Dries Van Noten’s didn’t have a face. The top lot was Russian designer Valentin Yudashkin’s matryoshka, which the organizing auction house bought for $100,000. Camilla Al Fayed picked up Margiela’s doll for 26,000 euros. Mikhail Kusnirovich, who runs the GUM luxury shopping mall, claimed the Oscar de la Renta design for 14,000 euros. Blake Named Pres. at K&G MEN’S WEAR VETERAN MARY BETH BLAKE HAS BEEN PRO- moted to president of K&G Fashion Superstore, the discount divi- sion of Men’s Wearhouse. Blake, K&G’s chief merchandising offi cer since May, fi lls a posi- tion that has been vacant since Chris Zender left the company in January. Before joining Men’s Wearhouse, Blake was senior vice president and general merchandise manager of men’s and chil- dren’s for the Macy’s Midwest division. She will continue to report to Doug Ewert, president and chief operating offi cer of Men’s Wearhouse. “Mary Beth has made signifi cant contributions to enhance our K&G merchandising strategies…her leadership will deliver long- term value to the business,” Ewert said. Like almost every retailer, Men’s Wearhouse has been affect- ed by the economic downturn. Last week, the company reported that net income in the third quarter fell 39 percent to $14.6 mil- lion, or 28 cents a diluted share, from $37.1 million, or 69 cents, in last year’s quarter. Excluding costs connected to the closure of the fi rm’s Golden Brand tailored clothing manufacturing subsidiary in Canada, earnings per share was 30 cents, above consensus estimates of 24 cents as well as the 24-cent to 28-cent range projected by the company in October. Sales fell 10.2 percent to $459.7 million from $512.1 million in the year-ago period. Tailored clothing sales were off 12.9 percent to $334.4 million, and tuxedo rental services inched up 0.4 percent to $96.5 million. Same-store sales fell 12.1 percent at Men’s Wearhouse and 13 percent at K&G. The company had been projecting a midsingle-digit decline at K&G and attributed the larger decrease to reduced store traffi c, Men’s Wearhouse said in its third-quarter conference call last week. Men’s wear sales remain challenging at the division, the company said, while it is seeing “positive trends” in some of its women’s cate- gories. Margins were under stress in the period as assortments con- tinue to be modifi ed and stores are redesigned, resulting in higher markdowns. K&G’s sales in the fourth quarter are expected to decline in the high-single to low-double digits. The division operates 108 stores. — Jean E. Palmieri 12 WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 25, 2008 WWD.COM

David Lynch’s vision for thethe CartierCartier DomeDome atat ArtArt U.K. Aims to Lure Shoppers Basel Miami Beach. With Pre-Holiday Price Cuts By Nina Jones LONDON — British retailers and the U.K. government are offering a raft of incen- tives to entice reluctant shoppers during the holiday period. British Chancellor Alistair Darling on Monday announced a 2.5 percent cut in value-added tax, to 15 percent, as part of his prebudget report. The cut, one of several measures the government launched to stimulate the U.K. economy, is ef- fective from Dec. 1 to the end of next year and applies to most nonfood products, excluding children’s clothes. It represents a discount of about 2.50 pounds, or $3.75, off an item that costs 100 pounds, or $150. “It can’t be hurtful,” said David Stoddart, an analyst at Altium Securities in London. “If it lowers prices, it should increase demand…but it’s a pain adminis- tratively at a time when retailers should be at their busiest.” The country’s retailers are providing signifi cant discounts in addition to the David Lynch Designs Art Basel Space government’s action. Last week, Marks & Spencer offered a 20 percent discount By Sophia Chabbott on all its nonfood merchandise for one day only, weeks after the retailer an- nounced a 43.6 percent dip in its fi rst-half profi ts. The last time the retailer ran a CARTIER HIRED DAVID LYNCH, THE DIRECTOR OF OFFBEAT FILMS SUCH AS similar promotion was in 2004. “Eraserhead” and “Blue Velvet,” to design a space and installation for Art Basel Miami Stuart Rose, chairman of M&S, said customer response to the sale day was “a Beach next month. riot. It seems to have hit the spot.” The project, dubbed “Diamonds, Gold and Dreams,” takes place within the The sale was held the same week Britain’s Offi ce of National Statistics report- 4,000-square-foot, Jean Nouvel-designed Cartier Dome. Inside will be a seven-minute ed a 1.1 percent decrease in sales volume at nonfood stores in October, compared “fl oating diamond” projection that will be accompanied by a musical score. It will be with September. projected hourly. Lynch, who was lent gold and diamond jewelry as inspiration, had A spokeswoman for M&S said the company hadn’t decided whether it would offer the dome outfi tted with walls covered in gold fabric, gold-printed carpeting and gold- more promotions in the run-up to Christmas, aside from its 20-percent-off partywear trimmed display cases. and “three for two” offers in the store’s The display cases will hold several important, one-of-a-kind pieces of jewelry cre- Nobody wants to Christmas shop. Another M&S spokeswom- ated specifi cally for the fair, including the gemstone-studded Patiala necklace. an confi rmed that the retailer would pass on “Who better than David Lynch to create the stage for Cartier objects?” said Frédéric get“ left behind. If you Monday’s cut in VAT to its customers. de Narp, president and chief executive offi cer of Cartier North America. “His universe Debenhams, the British department contains secrets, mysteries, extravagance…and this is what Cartier is about.” go on sale later, the store chain, last week ran a three-day pro- Art afi cionados often have a penchant for jewelry. Such is the reason that several mar- motion with as much as 25 percent off its quee jewelers such as Cartier and Graff fl ock to South Florida each December to make fear is you’ve missed products across the store. A spokeswoman their presence known at the contemporary arts fair that draws VIPs and celebrities. described the retailer’s Oxford Street store “It’s a big thing,” de Narp said of the event set for Dec. 4 to 7. the boat. It’s a game as “packed.” The Compagnie Financière Richemont-owned French jewelry and watch fi rm will Gap in the U.K. and France is offer- launch two collections at the fair, including the colorful, tasseled Torsade collection. of poker, in a way. ing 30 percent off its merchandise from Cartier Tradition pieces will also be on hand. ” Wednesday to Sunday with the presentation Last year, Cartier became an associate sponsor of Art Basel. — George Wallace, MHE Retail of an e-mailed voucher, which a spokes- Cartier is active in the art world. The Cartier Foundation for contemporary art woman said was sent to “a limited number has been commissioning artwork since 1984. The collection now contains more than of friends and family.” Karen Millen e-mailed a friends-and-family voucher that 1,000 works of art by some 300 international artists. Cartier also produces Cartier Art offered 30 percent off merchandise from Thursday to Sunday. Magazine. The latest issue, themed “Fantasy,” will be distributed at the fair. House of Fraser, another British department store chain, also will offer dis- De Narp said he is optimistic for sales this year, despite the economic meltdown. counts of as much as 25 percent on its normal trading prices on Thursday and “People today need the relationship with the brand,” he said. “They need the love Friday, along with a 40 percent discount on its private-label brands during the story. The environment isn’t positive and people need romance.” two-day period. “House of Fraser is confi dent it will continue to fare well in the marketplace,” the company said. “However, in light of numerous discount events this week, we have decided to offer our customers similar opportunities.” George Wallace, chief executive offi cer of the Europe-wide retail consultancy Fred Leighton Rebuts Merrill Lynch Claims MHE Retail, said: “Nobody wants to get left behind. If you go on sale later, the fear is you’ve missed the boat. It’s a game of poker, in a way.” By David Moin and Matthew Lynch Wallace said it was debatable how much the discounts would benefi t retailers. “There’s a chance that people will cherry-pick the bestsellers and [retailers] will ATTORNEYS FOR FRED LEIGHTON TERMED NEW CLAIMS AGAINST THE HIGH- be left with what’s not so good,” he said. “[But] it may be better to sell something profile jeweler by its major creditor “pernicious,” and said they were likely prompted now at 20 percent off than to be stuck with it on Dec. 25 at 50 percent off. … by an earlier amended complaint. Retailers made their commitment to inventory before the fi nancial crisis.” Merrill Lynch Mortgage Capital Inc. fi led a motion in U.S. Bankruptcy Court, Southern Stoddart at Altium Securities added, “The longer retailers are left holding District, on Friday, citing the possibility of a Chapter 7 liquidation by the famed jeweler. surplus inventory, the deeper the discounts will get.” Merrill said the fi rm could run out of operating cash by the end of the year and called for London’s higher-end stores also are adopting incentives. Selfridges is taking 20 its owner, Ralph Esmerian, to be replaced by a “disinterested Chapter 11 trustee.” percent off the majority of its merchandise this week through Sunday as part of In the court papers, obtained by WWD, Merrill charged Esmerian with concealing its Christmas Comes Early voucher promotion. The store also offers a 10 percent inventory records, failure to take the necessary steps to improve the business and pay discount on fragrance and beauty purchases with the presentation of a voucher down debt, as well as cost overruns for the construction of a new Beverly Hills store during the period. A Selfridges spokesman said the retailer does the promotion that exceed $1 million. “every year.” Selfridges’ winter sale will begin Dec. 26, the spokesman said. Calling the new claims “pernicious,” Helen Chaitman, an attorney at Phillips And, at Anya Hindmarch’s Sloane Street and Bond Street stores, customers can Nizer, the law fi rm representing Fred Leighton, noted that Leighton fi led an amended partake of complimentary Chantecaille makeovers without having to make a pur- complaint seeking $500 million in compensatory and punitive damages from Merrill chase in the store, during the week beginning Dec. 8. “It’s something fun and fes- on Nov. 10. She said Merrill’s new motion was based on facts the creditor had known tive that customers don’t have to pay for,” said a spokeswoman. The makeovers are for four to fi ve months and had probably been prompted by her client’s amended the latest in a series of pop-up projects that Hindmarch has unveiled at her London complaint. Chaitman said Leighton would answer each of Merrill’s allegations by a stores, including manicures with the Cowshed spa and a temporary fl orist. Dec. 4 deadline. — With contributions from Louise Bartlett “The fact that there’s been a drop in global luxury retail sales can’t be blamed on us,” she added. In the documents fi led Friday, Merrill said Esmerian “used the debtor’s estate as his personal candy store.” The papers also raised questions about what happened to a “special collection” of jewelry items that were collateral. According to a source familiar with the case, Merrill conducted an investigation into the inventory, and then decided to go public for the fi rst time with allegations about missing inventory by fi ling the motion. “Esmerian systematically sold signifi cant portions of Merrill Lynch’s collateral and diverted the proceeds for purposes other than the repayment of Merrill Lynch,” the court papers said. If Leighton runs out of operating funds, the company could be forced to sell. A hear- ing has been set for Dec. 12. Merrill Lynch Mortgage Capital Inc. is represented by Cadwalader, Wickersham & Taft. Merrill loaned Esmerian about $180 million to buy the company, which was put into bankruptcy in April. Esmerian, a jewelry dealer, hired former Merrill Lynch bro- ker Peter Bacanovic, who served a fi ve-month jail term for lying to prosecutors in the Martha Stewart case, as president of Fred Leighton. Bacanovic has instituted several strategies to try to get the jeweler back on track. Fred Leighton is known for providing red-carpet celebrities with its expensive es- British retailers like Marks & Spencer are offering tate pieces. In March, it sought repayment of its loans to Esmerian, and a Christie’s discounts in addition to the government’s price cuts. auction of the most prized pieces was set. The auction was abruptly halted when Esmerian took Fred Leighton into bankruptcy. WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 25, 2008 13 WWD.COM Accessories Bring Holiday Hope

By Caroline Tell ing with people, combing through sale racks. The retailer accessories and our store. We do it every year, but we is said to continue to offer big sales through year’s end. are expanding the amount of accessories shops this CAN ACCESSORIES SAVE THE HOLIDAY SEASON? Jim Gold, president and chief executive offi cer of Christmas by 30 percent over last year. The strength of Given the enormity of the U.S. economic crisis, prob- Bergdorf Goodman, said the store is also pushing through the holidays is around accessories.” ably not. But if history repeats, the category could give holiday with the help of “iconic brands that will stand the The specialty store recently launched accessories- a boost to a particularly weak retail year. Amid the dire test of time,” such as Chanel, Bottega Veneta and Nancy based shops in markets such as Columbus, Ohio; San forecasts, stores are pushing well-priced gift items they Gonzalez. Accessories fare especially well in a challenging Diego, and Boca Raton, Fla. hope will be bright spots. economic climate when consumers may consider “recy- J.C. Penney Co. Inc.’s holiday program focuses on a In last year’s fourth quarter, accessories was the cling an outfi t or postponing a major wardrobe purchase,” “red box” assortment of 60 items priced between $19 revenue leader, generating a 32 percent share of de- but still spend on accessories that can complete a look. and $109. The retailer is emphasizing affordable prod- partment store sales, while apparel was 29 percent, ac- Barneys New York is focused on offering items shop- ucts and practical gifts. cording to research fi rm the NPD Group. And jewelry, pers can’t fi nd elsewhere, such as its exclusive launch of Brian Bolke, co-owner of Dallas boutique 4510, said ac- watches and handbags were at the head of the pack. Proenza Schouler handbags. cessories are the dominating business moving into holiday, Jewelry and handbags also dominated third-quarter ac- “Accessories are great gifts and drive the holiday and luxury brands with entry-level pieces, such as scarves cessories dollar share at 52 and 19 percent, respectively. business, and our focus is on artisans and exclusives by Yigal Azrouël and necklaces, are winners. In jewelry, watches led at 21 of the 52 percent total. “We’re fi nding that the things our customers feel they “Accessories have always remained very important to Accessories are great can wear all the time and every day is where they’re fi nding us, but perhaps they’re different than before,” said Ron “ value,” Bolke said. “Something we’ve been really focused Frasch, president and chief merchandising offi cer at Saks gifts and drive the holiday on is working with our fi ne jewelry vendors to do earrings Fifth Avenue. “We’re seeing a greater interest in accesso- in gold or precious stones that retail under $250. We’ve just ries that are more gift-giving accessories, maybe things like business, and our focus is on had to work a little harder to fi nd the right things customers small leather goods, soft accessories. We’re seeing the good want as gifts and pick-me-ups that they can justify.” in spite of everything, especially across the contemporary artisans and exclusives that are Fashion brands also are relying on accessories to push accessories zone within handbags under $1,000.” them through the fourth quarter. In the last two years, brands Frasch cited brands such as Marc by Marc Jacobs and benchmarks to that business. such as , Proenza Schouler and Alberta Ferretti Tory Burch as those weathering the storm in handbags, ” have launched eyewear collections, while Badgley Mischka, and established labels such as Cartier, Chopard and — Sarah Blair, Barneys New York and Valentino have introduced watches.

A watch Accessories by Cartier. by Tory Burch. A Judith Ripka cuff.

A Nancy Gonzalez bag. A Coach clutch.

GGraffraff in SaksSaks’’ fi ne jewelry segment. He noted that jew-jew- tthathat are benchmarks to that business,”business,” saidsai Sarah Blair, “You must have a main-fl oor business to have reso- elelryry bbrandsrands spanning mumultipleltiple price llevels,evels, sucsuchh as DaviDavidd vice presipresidentdent andand divisionaldivisional merchandisemerchand manager, nance and respectability, and everyone understands YYurmanurman anandd JudithJudith Ripka,Ripka, are hanginghanging tough.tough. womenwomen’s’s accessories. “The“The more whimsicalwhimsica and delight- that categories like eyewear and watches are part of ““WeWe believe very strongly in our jewelry and in prod-prod- ffulul tthehe mercmerchandise,handise, tthehe bbetter.etter. We bbelieveelie handmade that category and are the most approachable,” said uuctct that is not ‘of‘of the moment’moment’ — product that is an bbeautifuleautiful items have intrinsic value.”value.” Mark Ginsberg, senior vice president of designer brands iinvestmentnvestment piece and will hold up well,well,”” Frasch said. CoacCoachh is one brandbrand offeringoffering festivefestive itemsitem at accessi- at Marchon Eyewear, which manufactures sunglasses for ““PeoplePeople make purchases or investments in jewelry from blblee price points. At its MadisonMadison Avenue fl agship,a Coach Michael Kors, Coach and Fendi. “It’s part of the whole tthosehose companies with strong brand credibility.”credibility.” ffeaturedeatured a ddisplayisplay ooff coin purses, wawalletsllets and jewelry picture, but it’s an integral piece of the puzzle.” HHowever,owever, as tthehe lluxuryuxury sector ffeelseels tthehe ffullull fforceorce ooff aallll retailing for less than $100$100 and situatedsituate at the front But at some fi rms, accessories are more than an “integral ththee troubledtroubled globalglobal economy, SaksSaks Inc. thisthis monthmonth post-post- of tthehe store. ShoesShoes rangedranged fromfrom 40 to 50 percentpe off. Last piece of the puzzle.” For Michael Kors, which once designed eedd a third-quarter net loss of $42.8$42.8 million, or 31 cents mmonth,onth, CoachCoach postedposted a 5.8 percent dropdrop inin fi rst-quarter exclusively for the elite, midtier accessories have become a diluted share, compared with last yearyear’s’s net profi t ofof net income on an 11.2 percent rise in sasales.le It also low- his stronghold. The company opened accessories-based $$21.621.6 million, or 14 cents a share. Saks said for the fi rst eeredred its sasalesles forecastforecast forfor thethe year.year. stores throughout the world to push the category, which now ttimeime in memory its shoeshoe andand handbaghandbag businessbusiness was suf-suf- JJ.. Crew recentlyrecently bbeganegan expanexpandingding its aaccessoriesc col- accounts for 75 percent of its volume. has also ffering,ering, even afterafter opening a luxuriousluxurious shoeshoe fl oor at its llectionection anandd is lookinglooking forfor thethe efforteffort to pay off in time for relaunched her handbag business. The fi rm’s chairman and MManhattananhattan fl agshipagship in August 2007. ththee fourthfourth quarter. At its new CollectionCollection store in New ceo Mark Weber, also ceo of LVMH Inc., U.S., has discussed LLastast week,week, thethe retailerretailer offeredoffered up to 90 percent offoff YYork,ork, thethe retailerretailer placedplaced costume jewelryjewelr displays up the possibility of opening accessories-based shops. on selectl t merchandiseh di ini a bidbid to t keepk traffit ffi c fl owingi ffrontt andd weavedd handbagsh db anddh shoe offeringsff through- Suzanne Hader, principal at 400twin Luxury Brand throughout the store. According to one saleswoman, out the apparel assortment. Consulting, said holiday will depend on the vagaries it reached “pandemonium” in the handbag depart- Accessories have become so important that some re- of the volatile stock market and decisions made by ment where they “were practically giving things away.” tailers are reorganizing their main fl oors to beef up the se- President-elect Barack Obama during the transition, Handbags normally priced at over $1,000 were on sale lections and add special gift-giving pieces. Ed Bucciarelli, such as his announcement Monday of the team that will between $100 and $200. By Monday, the handbags located president and ceo of Henri Bendel, said the store is up- steer his economic policies. near the elevators were completely gone, and in its place ping its assortment because “accessories are becoming “We’re all holding our breath to see what the gift-giving were Magaschoni cashmere sweaters at 40 percent off. increasingly important every Christmas season.” mood is going to be about,” Hader said. “Part of it will come Last week, designer shoes were listed at 40 to 70 percent, “I don’t know whether it will save the season, but ac- from how people feel about a new president coming in, can where a line formed for entrance into the eighth fl oor cessories are a major emphasis of our brand and our he turn things around or not? We’re seeing people shop on department. Lines were also evident Monday in the fi fth store,” Bucciarelli said. “So clearly when you come in, a budget for their Christmas shopping. We haven’t heard fl oor footwear department, and the entire fl oor was teem- you will see major gift-giving shops centered around people talk about holiday budgets in a very long time.” 14 WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 25, 2008 WWD.COM Financial For full daily stock changes, see WWD.com. Inter Parfums Cuts ’08 Guidance By Brid Costello tion of a 5 percent increase in sales. 10 BEST PERFORMERS The French company said it has PARIS — Inter Parfums Inc., the U.S. par- turned in a “very satisfactory” fall sea- ent of Inter Parfums SA, reduced its 2008 son, noting it counts Burberry the Beat DAILY COMPANIES P/E VOLUME AMT earnings guidance on Monday, citing the and the existing Burberry lines among strength of the dollar versus the euro. strong performers. It also singled out its HIGH LOW LAST %CHANGE But Inter Parfums SA, based here, Lanvin fragrance portfolio, which fared maintained full-year 2008 sales guidance particularly well in the second half, of 260 million euros, or $333.8 million at thanks to steady sales of Eclat d’Arpége 1.00 0.49 General Growth (GGP) 1.9 27380445 1.00 +143.90 current exchange, and forecast growth of and the launch in that period of Jeanne 5 percent for 2009. Lanvin. Aided by First, a classic scent, 1.40 0.94 Quiksilver (ZQK) - 1765112 1.30 +46.07 The U.S. parent, which owns 75 per- and Féerie, Inter Parfums’ fi rst launch as cent of Inter Parfums SA, accounted for licensee, Van Cleef & Arpels’ fragrance 1.28 0.72 Charming Shoppes (CHRS) - 1032563 1.20 +39.53 53.1 percent of the companies’ combined business exceeded expectations. sales for the fi rst half of this year. The fi rm said it has planned a packed 6.54 4.79 Collective Brands (PSS) 39.4 3881143 6.33 +33.83 “Refl ecting mixed performances in the 2009 launch calendar, which will in- worldwide market for fragrances and cos- clude a number of items targeting men. 15.08 11.60 Kimco Realty (KIM) 8.8 14599858 15.08 +33.69 metics, we have set cautious sales growth Novelties in the pipeline include new- targets for 2009, limited to 5 percent com- ness from Quiksilver; Burberry the Beat pared with 2008,” said Philippe Benacin, for Men; Lanvin L’Homme Sport, which 3.95 2.80 American Apparel (APP) 8.5 285901 3.95 +33.00 president and chief executive offi cer of will be fronted by tennis player Rafael Inter Parfums SA. “We nevertheless pos- Nadal, and Paul Smith Man. 3.65 2.60 Developers Diversifi ed (DDR) 2.7 11208870 3.63 +32.00 sess signifi cant competitive advantages “The group has a particularly solid for continued expansion in the years balance sheet with shareholders’ equity 3.85 2.93 Jones Apparel (JNY) - 3525175 3.81 +30.03 ahead: a high-quality portfolio of pre- of 150 million euros [or $192.8 million] mium international brands, a long-term and marginal net debt of approximately 2.49 1.86 Liz Claiborne (LIZ) - 4773201 2.32 +29.61 strategy based on both classic fragrances 10 million euros [or $12.9 million],” stated and new lines, recognized expertise and Philippe Santi, executive vice president, 1.52 1.10 Glimcher (GRT) - 472562 1.40 +28.44 well-managed growth.” adding that the position is “an additional Late Monday, Inter Parfums Inc. re- strength to pursue potential acquisition duced its 2008 guidance to net income of opportunities.” about $25 million, or 81 cents a diluted Inter Parfums SA is scheduled to re- share, from its previous estimate of $26.8 port full-year 2008 sales on Jan. 22. million, or 87 cents. Sales, originally slat- As previously reported, the company, 10 WORST PERFORMERS ed to reach about $460 million, are pro- which also markets Roxy, S.T. Dupont jected to tally $445 million. and Christian Lacroix fragrances — and DAILY COMPANIES P/E VOLUME AMT “We previously expected that the strength owns the Nickel men’s skin care brand — of our brands and new product launches posted fi rst-half 2008 profi ts of 11.2 mil- HIGH LOW LAST %CHANGE would enable us to reach our previously lion euros, or $17.1 million at average issued guidance,” said Russell Greenberg, exchange, up 6 percent on the same pri- executive vice president and chief fi nancial or-year period. Sales were 128.3 million 3.19 2.07 Tween Brands (TWB) 3.9 1000437 2.23 -25.91 offi cer of Inter Parfums Inc. “However, the euros, or $196.4 million, a 16.3 percent very challenging economic environment increase on the fi rst half of 2007. that has manifested over the last few weeks First-half operating profi ts gained 16 0.30 0.21 Hartmarx (HMX) - 134194 0.22 -21.43 brings doubt to that expectation.” percent to 17.7 million euros, or $27.1 Initial guidance for next year was set million, while gross margin increased 13 0.65 0.65 Birks & Mayors (BMJ) 1.7 600 0.65 -13.33 at net income of $26 million, or 85 cents percent to 76.8 million euros, or $117.5 a diluted share, on sales of $405 million, million, representing about 60 percent of 0.25 0.22 Fredericks of Hollywood (FOH) - 29600 0.22 -12.00 mirroring the French subsidiary’s projec- the fi rm’s sales. 34.97 29.60 Columbia Sportswear (COLM) 10.1 656094 30.84 -11.43 Perry Ellis Posts Drop in 3rd-Qtr. Profi ts 7.72 6.69 G-III Apparel (GIII) 9.1 370630 6.86 -7.92 PERRY ELLIS INTERNATIONAL INC. which our country is immersed,” chair- 5.07 4.05 Ann Taylor (ANN) 3.2 2506369 4.46 -7.66 reported a decline in third-quarter prof- man and chief executive offi cer George its and revenues Wednesday, but met the Feldenkreis said on a conference call 0.97 0.61 Eddie Bauer (EBHI) - 360158 0.63 -7.35 high end of its recently revised guidance. with investors. “Given everything that is For the three months ended Oct. 31, happening, we feel that our company per- 0.30 0.24 Joe’s Jeans (JOEZ) 2.7 251128 0.26 -5.45 profi ts at the Miami-based apparel fi rm formed very well.” fell 41.4 percent to $5 million, or 33 cents In the fi rst nine months of fi scal 2009, 4.00 3.71 CCA (CAW) 6.8 6600 3.71 -2.88 a diluted share, from $8.5 million, or 55 Perry Ellis profi ts fell 52.3 percent to $8.7 cents a share, last year. Total revenues in million, or 57 cents a share, from $18.3 mil- the quarter dropped 2 percent to $222.8 lion, or $1.16 a share, last year. Revenues * Editor’s note: European stocks are quoted in the currency of their principal exchanges. Shares on the million from $227.5 million a year ago. in the period rose 1.3 percent to $660.1 London Stock Exchange are quoted in pence, Richemont and The Swatch Group are quoted in Swiss francs Per share earnings were on target with million from $651.5 million a year ago. and Hennes & Mauritz is quoted in Swedish kronor. All other European stocks are in euros. the guidance the company issued last Last week, in addition to updating week of 30 cents to 33 cents a share, down its earnings guidance, the company dis- from the consensus estimate at the time closed a series of cost-cutting moves and of 55 cents a share. said it initiated a review of several of its IN BRIEF “Our third-quarter results were in- brands and underperforming businesses. fluenced by the financial tsunami in — Matthew Lynch • PERSHING PAUSES ON TARGET: Pershing investor confidence. The debt-ridden Square Capital Management LP said group, which owns Monday it will defer talks with Target the Gianfranco Ferré, and Extè Corp. about Pershing’s proposed spin- brands and operates under license the Dress Barn Lowers Estimates Despite Rise in Sales off from a real estate investment trust Just Cavalli, Costume National C’N’C By Arnold J. Karr comps declined 3 percent. until next year. On Friday, Target re- and Galliano labels, continued to slide Based on “weakness in consumer jected a revised plan from Pershing’s on the Milan Bourse, falling almost 4 DRESS BARN INC. RAN COUNTER TO spending that may well persist for the William Ackman, calling for the re- percent to 0.17 euros, or 21 cents, in the retail trend with increases in profits remainder of our fi scal year,” the com- tailer to spin off a REIT consisting of early afternoon trading. The outlook and sales during its first quarter, but the pany said it reduced earnings per share the land on which Target’s stores sit, remains negative. operator of the Dress Barn and Maurices guidance for the full year to 90 cents to $1 and sell about 20 percent of it through nameplates joined the chorus of firms from an previous range of $1.23 to $1.28. an initial public offering. Target said • LIQUIDATING STEVE & BARRY’S: A making lower earnings estimates. The projection assumes a midsingle-digit the “potential value created, if any, is Manhattan bankruptcy court judge Net income for the three months decrease in comps for the remaining nine highly speculative and insuffi cient to gave Steve & Barry’s the go-ahead on ended Oct. 25 rose 4.4 percent to $20.5 months of the fi scal year. merit pursuit of a transaction given Monday to begin liquidating inventory million, or 32 cents a diluted share, from “We are pleased to have generated solid the costs, strategic and operating risks at the chain’s remaining 173 doors. $19.6 million, or 30 cents, in the year-ago fi rst-quarter results that exceeded our ex- and loss of fi nancial fl exibility.” On “Time is of the essence in commencing quarter. On average, analysts expected pectations,” said David Jaffe, president Monday, Ackman disputed that argu- the store closing sales,” Judge Martin EPS of 27 cents. and chief executive offi cer of the Suffern, ment and noted, “We intend to pursue Glenn wrote in his ruling. “The debt- Sales during the period rose 3.5 per- N.Y.-based specialty retailer. “In view of the matter in the new year, after the ors would suffer from immediate and cent to $376.4 million from $363.7 mil- the current condition of the consumer holiday season.” irreparable harm if they were not per- lion, but fell 1 percent on a same-store market, we have carefully adjusted our in- mitted to start the store closing sales basis. Dress Barn division sales were up ventory levels and promotional strategy.” • IT HOLDING UP AND DOWN: Standard now.” The ruling allows the bankrupt 2 percent to $232.8 million and compara- At the end of the fi rst quarter, Dress & Poor’s upgraded IT Holding SpA’s retailer to take advantage of holiday ble-store sales were fl at. Maurices’ sales Barn operated 841 stores under its corpo- credit rating to “CC” from “SD” on gift buying with its going-out-of-busi- increased 6 percent to $143.6 million as rate nameplate and 692 Maurices stores. Monday, but it had little impact on ness sales. WWD, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 25, 2008 15 WWD.COM Furla Updates Premio Furla Format Alexi Andriotti Comes to U.S. By Luisa Zargani ger exist in fashion.” The company invests 5 percent of sales in media With Units in Miami, Orlando MILAN — Despite global economic turmoil, Furla is communication. Last year, Furla reported revenues looking beyond the balance sheet, scouting new tal- of 150 million euros, or $205.5 million at average ex- ALEXI ANDRIOTTI ACCESSORIES, WHICH IS KNOWN ents and creative minds. change rate. abroad as the H&M of accessories, is opening it first stores in The Italian accessories company said last week it “We are in a good position, we have no debt,” said North America. has streamlined and changed the format of its pres- Furlanetto. “There recently has been too much fi - The Athens-based company is launching units on Friday in tigious art award, Premio Furla, and has selected nance and not enough product in fashion.” Orlando and Miami. The fi rm was founded in 2000 by former another designer for its Talent Hub project. Furlanetto said 2008 will show a growth, Greek model Alexis Andriotis and has since grown into a $25 For the seventh edition of Premio Furla, fi ve but declined to be specifi c before the pivotal million retail chain with 70 shops throughout Greece, Italy, Italian curators each selected fi ve international cu- Christmas period. Turkey, Romania and the Middle East. rators, ranging from Daniel Birnbaum, director of Furlanetto also said she has chosen Silvio Andriotis estimated the locations should bring in more than the Visual Arts sector of the 2009 Venice Biennale, to Betterelli as the next designer who will collaborate $1 million in fi rst-year sales. The fi rm expects to expand into Raimundas Malasauskas, head of New York’s Artists with Furla as part of the Talent Hub project, which other domestic markets such as New York, Los Angeles and Space. Together they will single out an artist and supports emerging designers. Betterelli will design Chicago over the next fi ve years, aiming to eventually hit the commission a new work. shoes and bags for Furla, starting with the fall-winter $50 million mark in the U.S. The Fondazione Furla, located outside Bologna 2009 collection. Other Talent Hub designers include Andriotis chose Florida, which has been hit hard by the next to the company’s headquarters, will buy Max Kibardin, who will continue to design shoes economic downturn, because he feels the state’s consumer the work and show it at the city’s Museum of for spring-summer 2009, and sisters Alice and Lisa base appreciates modestly priced, glamorous accessories. Contemporary Art. The 45,000 euro, or $56,230, fel- Ferrari under the Maricò brand, who will design “Florida is a perfect fi t, and its demographics refl ect a laid-back, lowship award will be handed out at Bologna’s Arte handbags for that season. European attitude and lifestyle,” Andriotis said. “The customers Fiera, the international exhibition of contemporary The economy is not stopping Furla’s retail proj- there are incredibly open to costume jewelry and the combination art running Jan. 23 to 26. Artist Marina Abramovic is ects, either. After a recent opening in Shanghai, of good weather allows for more opportunities to accessorize.” the artistic sponsor of the award. the brand will unveil a fl agship on London’s Regent Alexi Andriotti Accessories feature pearl, silver and gem- “We are putting the spotlight back on Italian cre- Street in the fi rst week of December. Coming up stone jewelry, as well as leather handbags, fedora hats and silk ativity and mapping out the country’s contemporary next, a new fl agship in Barcelona. and cashmere scarves. The line ranges from a $4 hairpin to a art patrimony,” said Giovanna Furlanetto, chairman In line with many of her peers, Furlanetto is in- pair of $150 crystal-encrusted Converse sneakers, with the ma- of the family-owned company. “We need good proj- creasingly aware of ecological issues and is launch- jority of items priced between $12 and $50. While the stores are ects to believe in.” ing an initial Eco bag project: a minicollection of primarily geared toward women, the U.S. stores will eventually Furlanetto said she is thinking of “integrating” three handbags in soft “wet white” leather treated expand their collections to include items for men and children. the artists’ work “in a more audacious way, per- with water at low temperatures to save energy. It is Andriotis said the store’s offerings are what Americans haps in a new advertising campaign.” The execu- biodegradable and free of metallic substances, such need during this troubled period. tive said when she launched the award in 2000, she as chrome. A green label on the front allows custom- “With fashion-forward designs at reasonable prices, every- did not want to be accused of “exploiting art” and ers to personalize the bags, which were launched in one can afford to be a trendsetter,” he said. the artists’ works, but now “such barriers no lon- stores at the end of October. — Caroline Tell

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ATTENTION CLASSIFIED ADVERTISERS PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Due to the Thanksgiving Holiday, the classified section PRODUCTIONS for the December 1st issue of WWD will close on All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. Wednesday, November 26th at 11am. EXCESS INVENTORY BUYER Call Sherry 212-719-0622. Immediate Cash/No Inventory Too Large SALES REPS In addition, WWD will not be publishing on No Hassle/Integrity Driven/Closeouts Needed PATTERNS, SAMPLES, SALES MANAGER Woman contemporary lines need sales 901-338-6364 www.fusioninternational.net reps for private label program. Must Thursday, November 27th and Friday, November 28th. [email protected] PRODUCTIONS Mid-sized luxury-accessories co. is have strong chain store connections. Full service shop to the trade. Email resume to: [email protected] Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. seeking a full time sales manager Thank you for your cooperation! COMMERCIAL to oversee 5 sales executives for international and U.S. accounts. REAL ESTATE Candidate must have 7 years experi- ence as a sales manager and have an understanding of luxury brand. Must be proficient in Micro- soft Office, and QuickBooks. Showrooms & Lofts Send salary requirements to: BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS [email protected] Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Designers needed for a Designer Press ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Showcase from December 15-19 in NYC Fashion District (36th bet. 8th & 9th) $250 per designer. Please contact Sara: [email protected] Or call: 212-239-7355 www.designersinternationale.com

PRODUCTION ASSISTANT $30-40K Showroom Seeking Min 1yr exp in creating + updating Lines / Lease space purchase orders. Check invoices, ship- NY showroom w/ 3000 SF looking to ping docks. Strong on Excel. Accounting lease space to represent other lines. 6 background helpful, not nec. Mdtn. yrs experience in garment manufac- [email protected] 973-564-9236 turing for men /women with options to use our warehouse, marketing, financ- Come join the exciting world of handbags! ing, and sales. Compliant with EDI. Production Manager MAXX NEW YORK is celebrating 20 Fax 954.965.4443 or e-mail Sewing Plant in SE Georgia-Knowledge years of extraordinary success in the [email protected] of stretch fabrics. Fax resume to: designer handbag business. 631-582-9019 We are seeking an experienced, energetic RETAIL PLANNER/WALMART HI $ individual to join our specialty store Maj Kidsw’r co. seeks experienced retail SALES TEAM! Candidate must be planner for replenishment etc. knowledgeable, motivated, organized and prepared to immediately manage A.D. FORMAN ASSOC. existing accounts & open new accounts. 450 7th AVE (AGCY) 212-268-6123 Handbag experience preferred. Also must have great communication and computer skills, and retail math SALES DIRECTOR knowledge. Contemporary women’s wear company seeks driven showroom sales. Min 3 yr Please fax resume to: 212-683-3817 or PATTERN/SAMPLES experience in specialty & dept. store. Base email to [email protected] Garment center location. Professional salary + commission. Send resume & sal- attn: Liz Marz /Reliable Quality. Men & women all style. ary requirement to: Low Cost. Small production. 212-563-3331 [email protected] DAILY MALE WWD & WWD.COM now include men’s coverage

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