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The Demise and Transfiguration of Haute Couture

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The Demise and Transfiguration of Haute Couture 008-021_INDUMENTA_01 29/1/09 14:19 Página 8 The demise Pablo Pena González Doctor of Art History. Professor of Design History and transfiguration for the Region of Madrid [email protected] of Haute Couture ABSTRACT: Contrary to the prediction prêt-à-porter is an industry. This article of Yves Saint-Laurent, Haute Couture does not address the necessary, eternal has not died. After two decades of death and universal profession of tailoring, throes, breathing tubes still pump life but rather the Parisian institution that, through its veins to ensure that it contin- one day in its youth, looked in the mir- ues to lead luxury market advertising. ror and said, “I am haute.” And since Of course, this is not the state we fash- this article may be of interest to people ion professionals, whether designers or outside the industry, I will begin by ex- writers, would wish for, nor do we ap- plaining what “haute” means as applied prove of the postmodern direction that to couture. recent Haute Couture has taken, which a. “Haute” means “expensive.” Haute is progressively sullying rather than glo- literally means “high” and, if we analyse rifying the profession of fashion design- it semantically, couture cannot be high ers. This article offers numbers, state- any more than it could be fat. The epi- 1 As quoted by the journalist Corinne Jeammet. ments and reflections made by the thet “high” was appended in a Unless otherwise indicated, all quotes protagonists of Parisian couture, enough metaphorical sense, and I think this was appearing in the article are taken from the to certify the debacle of the last aristo- done to mask its gory significance: high cratic art in history. The text aims to means expensive. But we do not call it report by JEAMMET, C. Une appellation réduite prove that its aristocratic essence be- Expensive Couture because it sounds à 11 maisons. Paris: Culture et Loisirs, 2007. came the pathogen of its misfortune too businesslike. The difficult part is de- Available online: <http://culture.france2.fr/mode/ (democracy despises symbols of osten- termining when couture is onerous defiles-parisiens/103405fr.php?page=accueil>. tation and Haute Couture is the most enough to be considered haute. The It includes the following articles: Les membres conspicuous of all) and that Haute question is relevant, but fashion houses invités et correspondants; De 106 à 11 maisons Couture signed its own death sentence remain silent in embarrassment when it de Haute Couture en 2008; Des critères the day it dissociated itself from “Haute is put to them. In 1970, an unadorned d’obtention plus simples; Quel avenir pour la Culture.” garment was going for a minimum of 10,000 euros;1 according to the econo- Haute Couture?; La Haute Couture a changé de KEYWORDS: Haute Couture, contem- mist Bernard Girard, in the 21st century positionnement (Entrevista a Didier Grumbach); porary fashion, French fashion. this number may be four or five times Entre Haute Couture et pret-à-porter; La Haute higher.2 However, the prices are not reg- Couture est un rêve honéreux; Des maisons ulated by the Chambre Syndicale de la et des groupes. Also available online: Couture – more haughty than Haute Couture (Trade Union of Haute <http://culture.france2.fr/mode/defiles- haute Couture). Didier Grumbach, president parisiens/103405-fr.php?page=1to 8>. of the Fédération Française de la 2 In fashion jargon, couture and prêt-à- Couture, du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers GIRARD, B. L’industrie du luxe et la Haute porter are not the same. We use the et des Créateurs de Mode (French Couture après le départ d’Yves Saint-Laurent, term prêt-à-porter to refer to industrial Federation of Couture, Prêt-à-Porter 2004. Available online: clothing manufacture, while couture al- Couturiers and Fashion Designers), stat- <http://www.bernardgirard.com/ ludes to predominantly hand-tailored ed in 2004 that Haute Couture had be- BernardGirard/aligre/couture.html>. clothing. In short, couture is a craft and come more accessible than ever 8 008-021_INDUMENTA_01 29/1/09 14:19 Página 9 Óbito Pablo Pena González y transfiguración Doctor en Historia del Arte. Profesor de Historia del Diseño de la Comunidad de Madrid de la Alta Costura [email protected] RESUMEN: No ha muerto la Alta Costura institución parisina que un día de juven- en contra de la previsión de Yves Saint- tud se miró al espejo y se dijo: “soy alta”. Laurent. Después de dos décadas de Y como es posible que este artículo inte- agonía, palpita todavía conectada a tubos rese a una persona ajena al gremio, co- de oxigenación para que continúe lideran- menzaré por explicar qué significa “alta” do la publicidad del mercado del lujo. No en una costura. es, desde luego, el estado que le desea- a. “Alta” significa “cara”. Si nos atene- ríamos la gente de la moda, seamos mo- mos a la semántica, la costura no puede distas o escritores, ni aprobamos esa de- ser alta como no puede ser gorda. El epí- riva postmoderna de la última Alta Costura teto “alta” se adjunta con sentido metafó- que en vez de ensalzar la profesión del rico, y yo creo que lo hace para soslayar costurero la enloda progresivamente. Este su cruento significado: alta significa cara. 1 artículo recoge números, declaraciones y Pero no decimos la Cara Costura porque Según la periodista Corinne Jeammet. Salvo reflexiones de los protagonistas de la cos- suena a negocio... Más difícil es saber que se indique lo contrario, todas las tura parisina, suficientes para certificar la cuándo la costura es lo bastante onerosa declaraciones que aparecen en el artículo debacle del último arte aristocrático de la para ser considerada alta. La pregunta es proceden del reportaje de JEAMMET, C. Une Historia. Trataremos de demostrar que su pertinente, pero las casas de costura en- appellation réduite à 11 maisons. París: Culture esencia aristocrática se convirtió en pa- mudecen avergonzadas cuando se la et Loisirs, 2007. Disponible en Internet: tógeno de su fatalidad (la democracia formulan. En 1970 se barajaba la cifra mí- <http://culture.france2.fr/mode/defiles- abomina de los símbolos de ostentación nima de 10.000 euros para una prenda de y la Alta Costura es el más conspicuo) y vestir desornamentada1; según el econo- parisiens/103405-fr.php?page= accueil>. también que la Alta Costura firmó su sen- mista Bernard Girard, en el siglo XXI esa Comprende también los siguientes artículos: tencia el día que se disoció de la Alta cifra puede haberse multiplicado por Les membres invités et correspondants; De Cultura. cuatro o por cinco2. No obstante, los pre- 106 à 11 maisons de Haute Couture en 2008; cios no están regulados por la Cámara Des critères d’obtention plus simples; Quel PALABRAS CLAVE: Alta Costura, moda con- Sindical de la Alta Costura. Didier avenir pour la Haute Couture?; La Haute temporánea, moda francesa. Grumbach, presidente de la Federación Couture a changé de positionnement Francesa de la Costura y la Confección, afirmaba en 2004 que la Alta Costura se (Entrevista a Didier Grumbach); Entre Haute Costura más que alta, altiva había vuelto más asequible que nunca Couture et pret-à-porter; La Haute Couture porque ahora los vestidos ya no se recar- est un rêve honéreux; Des maisons et des En la jerga del vestir, costura y confección gan necesariamente de plumas, pedrerí- groupes. Disponibles también en Internet: no son lo mismo. Reservamos el término as y bordados; y añadía que Dominique <http://culture.france2.fr/mode/defiles-pari confección para referirnos a la confección Sirop, una “alta-costurera”, restringía los siens/103405-fr.php?page=1 a 8>. industrial, y costura para aludir a la con- precios para equipararlos a los de la con- 2 GIRARD, B. L’industrie du luxe et la Haute Couture fección predominantemente manual. En fección de alto nivel3. Para que se hagan après le départ d’Yves Saint-Laurent, 2004. Dispo- suma, la costura es una artesanía y la con- una idea, una chaqueta de confección de fección una industria. Este artículo no ver- Chanel no suele superar los 4.000 euros. nible en Internet: <http://www.bernardgirard.com/ sa sobre el oficio de la costura, necesa- b. “Alta” significa “oficial”. En Francia, BernardGirard/aligre/couture.html>. rio, eterno y universal, sino sobre esa el marchamo Haute Couture lo otorga el 3 Véase nota 1. 9 008-021_INDUMENTA_01 29/1/09 14:19 Página 10 because now dresses are not necessari- of prototypes before any orders are ly adorned with feathers, precious placed. We must remember that, from stones and embroidery. He added that Michelangelo to Tiepolo, artists primari- Dominique Sirop, a “haute-couturier”, ly painted commissions; it was not until limited prices to make them comparable the 19th century that painting salons with the cost of top-of-the-range prêt-à- were opened in which artists could dis- porter clothing.3 To give you an idea, a play proposals born of their own cre- prêt-à-porter jacket by Chanel usually ative instincts and preoccupations, or of costs less than 4,000 euros. their ability to predict what would sell. b. “Haute” means “official.” In Worth was the first among fashion de- France, the Haute Couture label is signers to assume this role of the con- granted by the Ministry of Economy, temporary artist. Finance and Industry through the c2. Did we say salons? Following the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute example of painters, Worth came up Couture. This union is the institution re- with a salon to display his creations. sponsible for assessing and evaluating Since clothing is not best viewed on the your company and certifying before the hanger, he invented catwalk shows with Ministry that it meets the prescribed models, which have since become the standards.
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