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Norway-6-Contents.Pdf ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Norway The Far North p312 Svalbard p348 Nordland p270 Trøndelag p253 The Western Fjords p207 Central Norway p119 Bergen & the Southwestern Fjords p152 #_ Oslo Southern p46 Norway p86 THIS EDITION WRITTEN AND RESEARCHED BY Anthony Ham, Stuart Butler, Donna Wheeler PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD Welcome to Norway . 4 OSLO . 46 Otta . 139 Norway Map . 6 Around Oslo . 78 Rondane National Park . 139 Sjoa . 141 Norway’s Top 15 . 8 Drøbak . 78 Østfold . 79 Ringebu . 142 Need to Know . 16 Fredrikstad . 79 Lom . 142 If You Like… . 18 Halden . 83 Jotunheimen National Park . 145 Month by Month . 21 Hardangervidda . 148 Itineraries . 25 SOUTHERN Geilo . 149 NORWAY . 86 Outdoor Finse . 150 Norway . 29 The Coast . 87 Tønsberg . 87 Travel with Children . 39 BERGEN & THE Larvik . 90 Regions at a Glance . 42 SOUTHWESTERN Kragerø . 92 FJORDS . 152 Risør . 93 Bergen . 153 Arendal . .. 94 Voss . 172 Grimstad . 96 Evangar . 182 Lillesand . 97 HANS-PETER MERTEN/GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES MERTEN/GETTY HANS-PETER Hardangerfjord . 184 Kristiansand . 98 Øystese . 185 Mandal . 103 Eidfjord . 186 Lindesnes . 104 Kinsarvik & Lofthus . 189 Flekkefjord . 105 Odda . 190 Egersund . 106 Rosendal . 192 The Interior . 107 Haugelandet & Ryfylke . 194 Kongsberg . 107 Haugesund . 194 The Telemark Canal . 110 Karmøy Island . 196 Rjukan . 113 Stavanger & Lysefjord . 197 Seljord . 116 OSLO P46 Stavenger . 197 Setesdalen . 117 Lysefjord . 204 CENTRAL NORWAY . 119 FRANK KRAHNER/GETTY IMAGES © IMAGES KRAHNER/GETTY FRANK THE WESTERN Lillehammer . 122 FJORDS . 207 Hamar . 126 Sognefjorden . 210 Elverum . 128 Flåm . 210 Røros . 129 Aurland . 212 Femundsmarka National Park . 134 Gudvangen & Nærøyfjord . 213 Oppdal . 135 Lærdalsøyri (Lærdal) . 214 Trollheimen . 135 Vik . 215 Dombås . 137 Balestrand . 216 Dovrefjell-Sunndalsfjella Sogndal . 217 AURORA BOREALIS NEAR TROMSØ P313 National Park . 138 Solvorn & Around . 219 Contents UNDERSTAND Skjolden . 220 Kystriksveien – Norway Today . 364 The Coastal Route . 281 Jostedalsbreen . 221 History . 366 Jostedalen & Brønnøysund . .. 282 Nigardsbreen . 222 Vega . 282 Landscapes & National Parks . 377 Kjenndalsbreen & Sandnessjøen . 283 Bødalsbreen . 225 Træna & Lovund . 284 Wildlife . 384 Olden . 225 Bodø . 285 Environmental Issues . 388 Loen . 226 Lofoten . 289 Norway’s Sami . 392 Stryn . 226 Austvågøy . 290 Arts & Architecture . 395 Florø . 227 Vestvågøy . 297 Måløy . 230 Flakstadøy . 298 Norwegian Cuisine . 400 Selje & Selja Island . 231 Moskenesøy . 300 The Northern Fjords . 231 Southern Islands . 302 Åndalsnes . 231 Vesterålen . 304 SURVIVAL Valldal & Around . 235 GUIDE Geiranger . 236 THE FAR NORTH . 312 Hellesylt . 239 Tromsø . 313 Directory A–Z . 406 Norangsdalen . 239 Senja . 322 Runde . 240 Transport . 416 Setermoen & Around . 322 Ålesund . 240 Language . 427 Western Finnmark . 323 Molde . 246 Alta . 323 Index . 436 Averøy . 248 Hammerfest . 326 Map Legend . 447 Kristiansund . 249 Nordkapp & Magerøya . 330 Lakselv & Around . 333 TRØNDELAG . 253 Stabbursnes . 334 Trondheim . 254 Eastern Finnmark . .. 334 The Route North . 266 Tana Bru . .334 Stiklestad . .266 Vadsø . 335 Steinkjer . 267 Vardø . 337 Namsos . 268 Kirkenes . .. 338 Rørvik . 269 Inner Finnmark . 343 Karasjok . .. 343 NORDLAND . 270 Kautokeino . 345 Arctic Highway . 272 Reisa National Park . 347 SPECIAL Mosjøen . 272 FEATURES Mo i Rana . 273 SVALBARD . 348 Outdoor Norway . 29 Saltfjellet-Svartisen Longyearbyen . 351 National Park . 276 Oslo Colour Feature . 60 Barentsburg . 359 Arctic Circle Centre . 276 Spectacular Norway . 173 Pyramiden . 360 Fauske . 277 Magdalenefjord . 361 Landscapes & Narvik . .. 278 National Parks . 377 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 25 Itineraries NORTH SEA Stalheim É •# •# Nærøyfjord É É Flåm •# Hardangervidda Plateau Voss •# É •# •# Myrdal Bergen É •# É #_ Oslo 1 WEEK Norway in Microcosm Even with only a week to spare, you can still see the best that Norway has to offer. This itinerary begins with Oslo’s considerable charms, traverses the drama of Norway’s high country and precipitous fjords, and ends up in beautiful Bergen. This journey can just as easily be taken in reverse order. After a couple of days exploring the fine galleries and museums of Oslo, take the scenic Oslo–Bergen railway, one of the most spectacular rail journeys on earth. From Oslo, the line climbs gently through forests, plateaus and ski centres to the beautifully desolate Hardangervidda Plateau, home to Norway’s largest herd of wild reindeer and numerous hiking trails. At Myrdal, take the Flåmsbana railway down to Flåm, from where fjord cruises head up the incomparable Nærøyfjord. Travel via Gudvangen, sleep overnight in Stalheim, and then continue on to Voss, where thrill-seekers love the eas- ily accessible activities on offer. Trains then carry you on to Bergen, arguably Norway’s prettiest city – wander its historic wooden waterfront, climb the surrounding mountains for sweeping views or soak up the atmosphere of the bars and restaurants that so distin- guish this cosmopolitan city. 26 Andenes •# Vesterålen É É FINLAND •# Lofoten Narvik Islands •# Nusfjord PLAN YOUR TRIP Å •# f# É •# NORWEGIAN Bodø SEA É Arctic Circle •# É Saltfjellet- É É ÷# Kystriksveien Svartisen Coastal Route National Park É IT I Vega •# NERAR •# Brønnøysund É SWEDEN Rørvik •# Gulf of I Bothnia ES É Stiklestad •# É Trondheim •# •# Hell 2 WEEKS The Norwegian Coast The coastline between Trondheim and the Lofoten Islands takes you across the Arctic Circle along a shoreline fissured with deep inlets, shadowed by countless offshore islands and populated by quiet fishing villages. You’ll need a car to make the most of this route, or consider the Hurtigruten coastal ferry, even for just a leg or two. Begin in Trondheim and linger for a couple of days in one of Norway’s most agree- able cities. Heading north, via Hell, stop off in Stiklestad, a site of great historical sig- nificance for Norwegians. Overnight here or continue on to Rørvik, where a fascinating multimedia display is the perfect introduction to coastal life. The Rv17 travels north to picturesque Brønnøysund, and don’t miss the offshore detour to the fascinating, Unesco World Heritage–listed island of Vega; count on a couple of nights in Brønnøysund and Vega. Back on the mainland, the extraordinary Kystriksveien coastal route hugs the coastline. A candidate for Norway’s most spec- tacular drive, this road passes an estimated 14,000 islands. It can be slow going with all the ferries and inlet-hugging stretches of road, but it is unquestionably worth it. The entire route could be done in a couple of days, but four or five is far more enjoyable. Fac- tor in time as well for a detour to the Saltfjellet-Svartisen National Park, home to Norway’s second-largest icefield and accessible glacier tongues. The most beautiful sec- tion of the Kystriksveien route is between Sandnessjøen and Storvik, and it’s along this section that you’ll cross the Arctic Circle. The primary appeal of Bodø is as the gateway (by ferry) to the Lofoten Islands. Un- like any other landscape in Norway, the Lofoten could easily occupy a week of your time, although it can be experienced much more rapidly for those in a hurry – make three days a minimum. All of the islands and villages are worth visiting, but on no account miss Nusfjord and Å, the latter a charmingly preserved village at the southern tip of Moske- nesøy. Like Lofoten but with far fewer visitors, Vesterålen is wild and beautiful and worth two days, including summer whale-watching off Andenes, before you head on to your journey’s end at Narvik. 27 Ålesund •# É •# Åndalsnes Trollstigen É Geirangerfjord •# É PLAN YOUR TRIP •# •#Stalheim Sognefjellet Lom É Road É ÷# Jotunheimen É Solvorn •# •# Voss National Park É Ulvik •# É •# Aurland É É •# Flåm •# •# •# •#•# Kjeåsen Øystese Eidfjord É Bergen Norheimsund Farm Utne •# •#Eidfjord IT I NERAR É I ES Stavanger •# •# É Lysefjord A Bergen Long 5 2 Best of the Fjords DAYS Weekend WEEKS Bergen is one of northern Europe’s most Few natural attractions have come to de- popular short-break trips, with good rea- fine a country quite like Norway’s fjords. son. While there’s more than enough to This meandering route through Norway’s keep you occupied for five days in Bergen fjord country, with a detour up and over itself, the city’s hinterland might entice you the roof of Norway, is one of Europe’s most to consider a two-night excursion to see beautiful. You’ll need your own vehicle. what all the fuss is about out in the fjords. Take as long as you can. Bergen is the reason you came here Begin in the far south, in Stavanger. and you’ve a busy time ahead of you if you After a day or two, take a day trip to hope to pack it all into two very full days Lysefjord, including the hike up to the of museums, wining and dining, shopping signature lookout of Preikestolen (Pulpit and simply wandering the postcard-perfect Rock). A long day’s drive north brings you streets. to Hardangerfjord, and a string of villages you’ll never want to leave, among them Although ranging beyond Bergen can and . Overnight in the lat- be done using public transport, we recom- Utne Eidfjord ter, then continue on to ; if you’ve mend renting a car and driving on your Flåm still enough left in the tank, make for far third day through Norheimsund, the lovelier for a couple of nights peaceful gateway to the stirring panora- Aurland surrounded by extraordinary views. Wind mas of the Hardangerfjord network. Pause your way north to pretty Solvorn on Lus- in Øystese long enough to enjoy an un- trafjord, climb up and over the Sognefjellet likely contemporary art fix, then overnight Road through Jotunheimen National in dramatic Eidfjord. The next morning, Park, then overnight in Lom with its after a detour to Kjeåsen Farm, drive to perfectly sited stave church. Then it’s on gorgeous Ulvik for extraordinary views, to peerless Geirangerfjord, up another stop for lunch in Voss, then drive to Stal- breathtaking mountain road, the Trollsti- heim for more spectacular views.
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