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Voices of Sustainability George Monbiot • Satish Kumar • Melissa Hemsley • Henry Dimbleby

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Voices of Sustainability George Monbiot • Satish Kumar • Melissa Hemsley • Henry Dimbleby wicked leeks SUSTAINABLE FOOD AND ETHICAL BUSINESS ISSUE 2 - SPRING 2020 INSIDE Why one man bought no food for a year Plus Guy Singh-Watson on the ‘end of farming’ VOICES OF SUSTAINABILITY GEORGE MONBIOT • SATISH KUMAR • MELISSA HEMSLEY • HENRY DIMBLEBY WICKEDLEEKS.COM Published by Riverford Organic Farmers EDITOR’S LETTER CONTRIBUTORS Editor of Idler magazine, Tom Hodgkinson, explains why, rather than doing more, simply doing less might save the world. Sustainability pioneer and adventurer Rob Greenfield writes about how and why he spent a year without buying any food. Founder of Riverford, Guy Singh-Watson, responds to the Apocalypse Cow documentary and a rumoured ‘end Welcome of farming’. You may not agree with George Monbiot’s radical predictions of an end to Social media farming as we know it, but there’s no denying things are changing. expert Emily From the shake-up to farm subsidies sparked by Brexit, with farmers now Muddeman to be paid based on their environmental stewardship rather than size of farm, on the cultural to the increasing debates around rewilding, vertical farming and lab-grown barriers that mean food. This second print issue of Wicked Leeks aims to capture some of these veganism is a conversations and changes, alongside four very different perspectives with predominantly our cover feature ‘Voices of Sustainability’ (see pages 8-11). The journalist, the female lifestyle. restaurateur, the activist and the cook all have very different takes on what it means to be sustainable and how to navigate the impacts of food choices and beyond; together they offer a combined alternative vision for a better world. Wicked Leeks magazine is It may seem a confusing time to be engaging with food sustainability, but published by Riverford Organic Farmers. I believe the complexity is to be embraced. After all, like in food and farming, there are no answers to be found in monocultures - whether that’s crops or Mailing address: Wash Farm, perspectives. Buckfastleigh, TQ11 0JU. We hope you enjoy reading this second issue, and don’t forget to sign up to E: [email protected] our weekly newsletter at www.wickedleeks.com/#join, for the latest five stories T: 01803 227416 in your inbox every Sunday. Follow us #WickedLeeks @Riverford Editor: Nina Pullman Design: Arianne Marlow Marketing: Max Harrop Nina Pullman, Editor, Wicked Leeks NEWS Growers hit by devastating Storm Gloria wiping out months of work in one hour By Nina Pullman rowers in the south of Spain are counting the cost of a Many outdoor field crops, such as cabbage, are not yet Gdevastating hailstorm that collapsed over 1,000 hectares accessible due to the storm damage and suffered widespread of tunnels and wiped out entire crops. flooding. The disaster struck only months after growers in the Storm Gloria hit the Almería region of southern Spain in same area were hit by heavy flooding in September of last year, late January, where many vegetable, salad and other fresh wiping out much of the leafy salad crops, such as spinach. produce growers are based. The storm was also responsible for the deaths of nine people, the Guardian reported, as high winds, snow, rainfall and huge waves hit buildings and other infrastructure. Around 1,000 hectares of glasshouses and polytunnels were decimated in Almería, with further damage in Valencia and Alicante said to have hit thousands more. The storm lasted only an hour but with hailstones up to 1cm in diameter it left a trail of destruction as tunnels collapsed and caused landslides onto crops. Courgettes, aubergines and bell peppers are among the worst hit, as well as cabbages, broccoli and onions in the outdoor fields. Spain is the main supplier of vegetables and salad to the UK during the winter months and shortages are expected to have knock-on effects on supply for staple vegetables over the next few months. Veg shortages are expected. Family-run organic vegetable grower Naturcharc, a supplier to veg box company Riverford, estimated around 16 hectares of damage to its glasshouses, while a thick layer of hail remained Fresh produce buyer for Riverford, Steve Monk, said on the soil and froze to become ice, causing more issues. Total shortages are expected as a result of the storm, but it’s too damage is yet to be fully calculated, the company said, but early to predict exactly what. “Several of our long-standing estimated that in one hour the storm had “wiped out months of grower partners in Spain have been affected by the storm work”. and we are supporting them as much as possible,” he said. “While growers will have insurance for tunnel rebuilding, the “There are likely to be some shortages coming up as the British crops themselves are not covered as no one expects damage autumn growing season was early, and it’s looking like an on this scale to happen,” said Flemming Anderson, Riverford’s earlier than usual ‘Hungry Gap’.” fresh produce manager in Spain and Italy. “We are here to help The Hungry Gap is the name given to the annual period the growers and will source what they ask us to source, and not during April and May just ahead of the summer UK growing only what we want them to deliver.” season, and after the winter crops have ended. Five stories, once a week. For all the latest on sustainable farming and ethical business, sign up to our weekly newsletter wickedleeks.com/#join 3 NEWS Farming versus rewilding NEWS IN debate reignited BRIEF By Nina Pullman Actor calls for end to factory farming A Game of Thrones actor has crouched in a metal cage in London’s busy Oxford Circus to highlight the “horrific” welfare standards of factory-farmed pork he debate around recommended reducing and urge food retailers the climate impact of intensively-produced meat T to stop buying from farming has been reignited and dairy as one of the best after the former chief ways to reduce carbon factory farms. Jerome scientist to Defra said half of footprints. The UK’s farming Flynn, who plays Bronn Globally, the UK’s farmland should be sector has fought to show in the award-winning rewilded to help tackle the that its largely grass-based TV series, is part of agriculture climate crisis. livestock systems have a the latest appeal by Sir Ian Boyd told the much lower footprint due campaign group Farms is estimated Guardian that restoring 50 to carbon storage potential not Factories, called to contribute per cent of farmland into and lower inputs. ‘Pigs in Chains’. woodlands and natural Responding to Boyd’s around 13 per habitat could mean the comments, NFU president amount of cattle and sheep Minette Batters said: “It Farmers paid to protect cent of carbon would fall by 90 per cent. took two world wars to environment He estimated this would realise the error of not The biggest shake-up emissions result in 20 per cent less being able to produce to farming subsidies food being produced, enough food for our island for 40 years is on which could be replaced by nation. I said [at the Oxford the horizon as part developing vertical farms, Farming Conference] last of the long-awaited he said. year you only turn the food Agriculture Bill. The comments put him production tap off once. Farmers will now be We cannot make the same in direct opposition with the paid subsidies based mistake again.” National Farmers Union, on their care of the which has set out plans for Another farmer, Joe environment, rather agriculture to reach net zero Stanley, tweeted that: than the amount carbon emissions by 2040 “Rewilding 50% of GB of land they own, without reducing livestock farmland will just offshore announced as the UK numbers. our food production to leaves the EU and its The NFU said precision countries with [lower] agricultural policy, techniques, greater environmental standards.” known as CAP. efficiencies, production of The debate escalated energy crops, and feed further with the release of additives for cattle, would Channel 4’s documentary, help the sector reduce and Apocalypse Cow, fronted by offset its carbon. George Monbiot, a leading Globally, agriculture is proponent of rewilding, and For more news on the estimated to contribute which set out how farming environment, farming and around 13 per cent of as we know it could end carbon emissions and within decades. food sustainability, visit: a series of studies have See p.7 and 15 for more. wickedleeks.com/news 4 NEWS Vertical farming expands across UK Overfishing set to continue Vertical farming has been boosted in the UK uropean ministers have missed a including vulnerable species like Irish by a series of significant Elegal deadline to end overfishing by Sea whiting and cod in the west of investments and ignoring scientific advice and setting Scotland and in the Celtic Sea. expansions of farms in unsustainable fish quotas. ClientEarth fisheries lawyer Nick Bristol and Lincolnshire. Lawyers from environmental Goetschalckx said: “It was the collective One site, LettUs Grow, charity ClientEarth have warned that responsibility of EU fisheries ministers to a vertical farm start-up the decision, taken at a meeting of make sure that this year’s fishing quotas created by students fisheries ministries in December, are fully in line with the legal deadline to at the University breaches EU law and could result in end overfishing by 2020, but they failed of Bristol, has just legal action. The meeting resulted in to deliver.” setting unsustainable Total Allowable secured £2.35 million “This is not just a political failure. The Catches (TACs) for several stocks in the in funding that they deadline is a legal obligation and courts Northeast Atlantic, ClientEarth said, said would “accelerate” exist to enforce it.” development in 2020.
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