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Vol. XXV No. 6 MUSINGS July 1-15, 2015 Water pandhals or Know your Fort space markers? better

ou can safely trust our po- are all thatch structures which, tionary doing the honours. Ylitical outfits to be innova- incidentally, are not allowed by Since when did temporary tive when it comes to circum- law, after the Kumbakonam structures merit such promi- venting the law. With the ad- school fire a few years ago. All nence? ministration being forced by the of them carry the images of their The goal, it is clear, is some- High Court to come down favoured leaders and have thing other than the serving of heavily on the erection of ban- bunting strung across the street water to the thirsty. That be- ners and cutouts, the parties thereby menacing two-wheeler comes evident now when sum- needed some other method of riders as well. Songs praising the mer is on the wane and yet cornering public spaces. The re- there is no sign of these pavi- cent summer has seen a spate of lions being removed. These politically sponsored water-dis- G By have in effect become perma- pensing facilities, all of them nent structures that are pro- hogging the few remaining pub- A Special tected by the political hoods of lic footpaths and street corners. Correspondent the locality with the administra- This is a new menace under the tion either indifferent or simply garb of social service that ought helpless to do away with them. The Assembly and Secretariat. to be nipped in the bud before it leader are played over a public Past history will tell us that becomes a bigger issue. address system every afternoon. this is exactly the way we ruined G The most frequently photographed feature of Fort St George is Come to think of it, the re- There is yet another common our city by erecting large adver- the Assembly building. It dominates the Fort’s frontage and is strik- cent summer was hardly a se- feature among all of them – not tisement hoardings. Many were ingly beautiful. It is, sadly, completely out of bounds for the casual vere one. Moreover, with the one really dispenses any water. classified as temporary, came up visitor, housing as it does the offices of the Chief Minister, the present dispensation selling The only sign of such an activ- on street corners and footpaths State Cabinet, the Legislative Assembly and the ministries. Com- packaged water at heavily ity is an empty water dispenser and most had political patron- pared to the rest of the Fort, this edifice is of relatively recent prov- subsidised rates, where is the with not an attendant in sight. age. When they began growing enance, having been constructed in its present shape in1910 and need for these water-dispensing And yet, each one of them is out of control in terms of subsequently added to. But its core is very old, almost as old as Fort facilities? And yet they have declared open with much fan- St George. Among the first structures to be built in 1640 by come up all over the city. They fare, an important party func- (Continued on page 2) was what he termed the “Tower in the midst of the Fort”. This was finished before he left Madras in 1643. It housed the civil estab- lishment of the Fort, while the military disposed itself below the curtain walls. According to Dr. Fryer, who left an account of the Changed rules will Fort in 1673, this central tower, a domed edifice rather like a Mughal tomb, was the Governor’s House. Later accounts speak of it as a flat-roofed building and H. D. Love in his Vestiges of Old Madras dismisses the domed depiction as “untrustworthy”. threaten beaches It appears to have been multi-functional, for it “contained of- fices, reception rooms, a dining hall, a chapel and accommodation (By A Special Correspondent) for the Writers.” An earlier write-up, dated January 6, 1664, refers to this building as the ‘Mansion Howse’ and has it as the residence he Central Government The new regulations appli- have basement and stilt-based of the Agent (later designated Governor) and the second, third Thas pulled the plug on the cable to , Andhra car parking facilities. The Gov- and fourth members of his Council. It also housed a “very beautifull only protection that our city’s Pradesh, Karnataka, Odisha, ernment has, however, stipu- Chappell for Divine Service, and Convenient Lodgings for the coast had – norms governing West Bengal, Maharashtra and lated that the floor space index Minister, as alsoe a faire dineing-roome and Celler.” building in areas that qualify as Gujarat remove all restrictions (FSI) for these constructions Dr. Fryer does not mention it, but Hiram Bingham, in his biog- Coastal Regulation Zone (CRZ) on CRZ II areas. Mumbai city will be based on the rules pre- raphy of , notes that even a year earlier to Fryer’s de- II. According to the existing and Goa had already lobbied vailing in 1991 – this, it is ar- scription, the building was in need of repair. All sources agree that rules, all construction within hard for the change and had gued, will be sufficient to pro- by 1677 the walls of this building were tottering. Several Gover- 500 metres of the sea was disal- succeeded in getting the regu- tect the areas from rampant nors had added to the structure over the years. The additions had lowed. Now, thanks to intense lations affecting them removed over-construction. In addition, been made without any thought of the foundations and by 1688 lobbying by the real estate in- in 2011. That gave a fillip to all all buildings coming up on CRZ Fort House had three floors with the Governor’s Consultation dustry and continued represen- other coastal states to fight for II areas will have to compulso- Room on the top, all ready to collapse at short notice. tations by the State Govern- the same rights. They will now rily recycle wastewater. Action was finally taken in 1693 by Governor Nathaniel ment, this has been relaxed, be subject to the same regula- You only need to look Higginson who, like Yale, was born in the colonial America. He with a few conditions attached. tions as the rest of the city to around you to speculate on was also the first Mayor of Madras. The building was emptied and The builders are jubilant, but as which they belong. There will what will happen to these areas all its effects transferred to Jearsey House on Charles Street within to what it portends for the city be no limits on heights of the in a few years. In a city where the Fort. Demolition was completed by April 1694 when orders is a matter of concern. structures and these can also (Continued on page 2) (Continued on page 8) CMYK 2 MADRAS MUSINGS July 1-15, 2015 Are they space markers? On oga Day id you yoga on Inter- buildings? Would they bend can attract more people to in- (Continued from page 1) step. When confronted about Dnational Yoga Day, over backwards to protect di- volve more in this event. this, some political leaders have Chief? You will be happy to lapidated but historic struc- “Many people like me are know that The Man from Ma- tures? Or would they continue more interested to involve ac- number and size, and after there argued that putting up water dras Musings did not, for he as they are – tying themselves tively for a social and environ- were several accidents leading dispensers is an age-old Tamil yogas on all other days like up into bureaucratic knots? mental cause which will to fatalities, civic activists had custom. They cite the example nobody’s business and so de- The invitation revealed that directly benefit people and to fight the menace, which took of a prominent temple festival cided to give it a miss on that none of the above was being citys look.. Kindly Consider. I several years, culminating in a in where such facili- day of days. Not so several oth- contemplated. It was an exhi- feel happy to share my feel to Supreme Court judgement that ties come up each year on the ers whom MMM knows. And bition of yoga as seen in sculp- you, and you can make it last banned them all. We have had day of the event. But what is they all did it in front of cam- tures and temple art. MMM did long.” a few hoarding-free years, but a forgotten is that they are also eras. Some were of the still va- not visit it. He preferred to lie MMM had visions of the casual glance around the airport removed immediately thereaf- riety while others moved and on his back and let his mind Chief himself and sundry area will show you that they are ter, which is not the case with by that MMM refers to the in- wander. That, in MMM’s view, hangers-on (the lady who coming back in ones and twos, these politically motivated ability of most people to re- is the yoga of yogas. writes the occasional humour slowly but steadily. The will to stalls. main stationary while twisting The next day, even as column in particular) going implement the law is always The administration is, in the their untrained bodies into MMM unrolled his yoga mat, around arm-in-arm with the weak in our city. meanwhile, watching it all knots. he noticed that most of the ar- film actors. At strategic spots, The same screenplay will be without any action being con- The camera apparently was dent practitioners of the previ- the group would unlink hands enacted in the case of these ille- templated. They are obviously an integral part of the yoga. Of ous day had rolled up their and then get down to work – gal water-dispensing facilities. waiting for someone to file a course, given the prevalent mats forever. Several were call- MMM digging, the Chief Each evening, it is common- public interest petition which, obesity, MMM is rather glad ing up their doctors for placing the sapling, sundry place to see several anti-social after following the usual tortu- that those who yoga’d for the unknotting themselves from hangers-on clapping and the elements congregating in these ous routes, will finally result in day, did so in suitable attire, the postures they had tried the actor smiling and bowing as for the ancients, who were previous day. Others com- though he had done all the thatch shelters. From here to a a judgement that will necessi- spurt in organised crime is but a tate taking steps. SHORT ’N’ SNAPPY CHANGED RULES POSE A THREAT rather fitter, did it in the al- plained of backache. In hard work. And so on from most altogether. Not so for our MMM’s considered view, the sapling to sapling till the 25 (Continued from page 1) water body could have shrunk budding Sumo practitioners. day after International Yoga lakh trees, or whatever the within a few years of these Many garments were seen to Day ought to be declared chosen number was, was com- constructions indicates what be lifting up in postures of International Aches and Pains pleted. Come to think of it, FSI is consistently violated, and havoc these builders can play their own, resulting in men Day. why just 25 lakh, why not 376 where the enforcement agen- when they indulge in violations and women having their lakh? cies prefer to look the other of all sorts. embonpoints exposed. Madras Week (again) The other missive reads: way, what is the guarantee that Lastly, the tsunami of 2004 Now, where was MMM be- “No other city in India has fore he went midriff gazing? is that time of the year heritage and celebration like violations will not take place? appears to have receded from Ah yes, he was talking about ‘T again – what The Man this. But do you know that What will prevent an area like collective memory. The havoc from Madras Musings terms as MRC Nagar becoming another the camera. Yes, that was Chennai city is the city with it played on the coastal areas deemed necessary because Daft Suggestions Fortnight”. least green cover in India. T Nagar? Nothing really. Vio- and the subsequent crash in This usually comes about im- lations are sadly the norm in without that, how could all What are you celebrating demand for property along the those in distant Chennai curry mediately after the Chief holds about? More street side shops Chennai’s construction indus- beach needs to be recalled. How favour with the big boss up freth the first of at two occupied platform than any try – a few extra feet of land per has a decade changed all that? north? They had themselves press conferences announcing other metro in India. Less building may not amount to Or are we imagining that such a recorded and the images and Madras Week. A whole host of number of parks and less num- much individually, but collec- disaster will never occur again? movies were duly uploaded on “why don’t you” emails imme- ber of water bodies. tively it can have very detri- Ten years ago, we hardly had YouTube in the hope that the diately crop up, every man and “Even Maylapore tank is mental effect on the quality of any coastal constructions and great leader would in an idle woman wanting the Chief and surrounded by illigal platform life. But who is to realise that, so the loss of life was low. What moment want to see these an- immediate coterie to take up all shops. Traffic is getting worst especially when there are crores will be the outcome if high tics. A self-declared sage from kinds of impossible tasks. Mind day by day due to CMDA and of rupees at stake? waves strike densely populated down South came to our city you, they are all good sugges- Copn poor foresight and plan- tions but pretty nigh impossible We have in the recent past areas? And if such a tsunami is to conduct mass breathing ses- ning. Plan sanction is a piece of to fulfil and the persons who unlikely, why is the Govern- sions in an open-air venue for paper with no scantity. No carried a story about how most come up with them invariably of the gated communities and ment using that bogey for benefit of an invited audience. malls, store, restatement need His doppelganger rival, who have no clue as to how to go to follow rules. I don’t know apartment complexes that have evicting the fisherfolk who are about any of them anyway. come up in the outskirts of the the original settlers in coastal has a a double double prefix what you are celebrating about. city lack water treatment areas? Is it to make way for the prefix and usually hangs out in In this connection, MMM If you are concerned, plant IT city flew to Edelweiss coun- would like to quote verbatim more trees and remove garbage plants, exploit groundwater and builders? try to yoga there. A political from two of the emails received: on that day, rather than having In the meanwhile, hurry up release untreated sewage into hopeful who answers to a fairly “It’s great to hear about the a lame photo exhibition and the public drains and water and go and take a look at the junior army rank put up on the Chennai Week. In this mo- chat forums. Sorry to have bodies. It is a well-known fact beach. Chances are that it may Internet his version of what he ment, We not only think about been blunt, as native of the city that the , no not last long and, before you spoke of as ‘yoha’ which raised Chennai memories,We should I feel we have to do much more matter what be its condition know it, exclusive villas and a number of hahas. In short, also try and restore its values than talking.” within the city, was a pristine highrise for the rich, and shanty much energy was generated, and ambience. In this great It takes all kinds to make up stream just outside of it until towns for the poor that support everyone went around chant- moment we will try to make the city, does it not? The point these housing communities the services to the former will ing Om and spoke of world our city much greener by plant- about Madras Week is that it is came up along its side. That the soon close it all off. peace. And they all did it on ing more trees. As Chennai is everyone’s festival. If these let- camera. the less polluted among all ter writers and others of their What intrigued MMM was metro cities we can make it ilk feel something has to be cel- an invitation from the Ar- least polluted. As I do not ebrated or changed, it is up to MADRAS MUSINGS ON THE WEB chaeological Survey of India to know you might have planned them to do it. There is nothing To reach out to as many readers as possible who share our keen observe Yoga Day. Before already about this. I request to be achieved by sending interest in Madras that is Chennai, and in response to requests from opening the missive, MMM you to organise an event for emails to Madras Musings com- many well-wishers – especially from outside Chennai and abroad wondered as to how the De- planting trees as a part of the manding the team to do things who receive their postal copies very late – for an online edition. partment proposed to yoga. event. Kindly invite actors like or whining about matters that Madras Musings is now on the web at www. madrasmusings.com Would the officials wrap them- Vivek who had planted 25 don’t change. selves around the endangered lakhs trees all over Tamil Nadu – MMM – THE EDITOR July 1-15, 2015 MADRAS MUSINGS 3 Citizens’ green landmarks urther to Dr. A. Raman’s review of Living seating facing the students. Half the classes were FLandmarks of Chennai (MM, June 1st) I held below the mango trees of Damodar Gar- wish to offer two observations. dens.

The Diamond Jubilee Convention of the TS The Banyan tree at Theosophical was conducted in 1935 by Arundale at the Ban- the Society yan tree! Similarly, the inauguration of the Water and sewerage successive Governors of Madras On his second tour of Australia, H.S. Olcott, Maria Montessori training course also took and even to the British Prime founder-President of the Theosophical Society place beneath the beautiful tree on a calm De- y article on the introduct- Minister. It was only in 1881 (TS), travelled via the Dutch East Indies, stay- cember morning in 1940. Rukmini Devi went Mion of sewerage in Madras that the then Viceroy, Lord ing at the Hotel des Indies in Batavia one step further by planting a Banyan sapling (MM, April 1st) contained a (Djakarlanow). There, he saw a “monster ban- obtained from the TS tree in the 1950s at Ripon, finally responded to her yan tree”, one of the largest he had ever seen. brief reference to Florence pleas and ordered that work on Kalakshetra and this is now a huge tree, with a Nightingale. Readers may be This impression that he gave in his Old Diary prayer hall beneath it. sewerage in Madras should Leaves made me verify if he had ever seen the curious to know what role she start. Thus, the work was com- Banyan tree in Adyar. The Bo tree played. pleted only two decades later! The founders of the TS acquired 28 acres I was sorry to learn that the Bo tree (Peepal, Although she never visited It was mentioned in the ar- called Huddleston Garden and moved in on De- Tamil: Arasu, Ficus religiosa) has been missed India, she had a good idea of the ticle that Capt. Tulloch had the cember 19, 1882.When Annie Besant took out in Living Landmarks of Chennai. It has situation through friends who foresight that sewage should charge as President soon after H.S. Olcott aesthetic value. Here is a write-up I did some had been to India. While not be put into the city’s water- passed away in 1907, she acquired several adja- time back to promote its leaf – greeting cards cent properties to increase the holding of the were made out of its leaf. Calcutta and Mumbai had got ways. Nightingale had the fore- TS to 263 acres and named them as Blavatsky Emperor Ashoka took a cutting of the Sacred sewerage in the late 1860s, Ma- sight to say that rainwater and Gardens, Olcott Gardens, Besant Gardens, Bo tree under which Lord Buddha had attained dras did not. She was therefore sewage should never be mixed. Besant Grove, Alsace Grove and Damodar Gar- enlightenment. He planted the sapling in a keen that Madras too should get Sadly, both are still happening. dens. The great Banyan tree was discovered only golden vessel and sent it through his daughter it. Many citizens have in recent after some time, i.e. after Blavatsky Gardens was Sanghamitra to Anuradhapura, Sri Lanka, When Ellis, the Chief Sani- times realised the value of har- bought, as it was hidden in the deep jungle. Ob- where it still remains. Worship at this Bo tree tary Commissioner of Madras, vesting rainwater to provide viously neither Olcott nor Blavatsky was aware has continued unbroken for 2300 years. In fact, this is the earliest historically documented tree was on a visit to London, she them greater water security of the great banyan tree that became a part of and, hopefully, the coming days the TS one day in the future. and revered by over half the world’s population. took him round and familiarised The tree is also sacred to the Hindus and will see widespread practice of Anne Besant gave her lectures titled ‘In the him with its drainage system. In twilight’ in 1909. It is said that 3000 people Sikhs. It is looked upon as an incarnation of 1864, she got a Capt. Tulloch harvesting not only of terrace congregated beneath the Banyan tree. It was Vishnu. The tree is also associated with the trin- sent to Madras to prepare a sew- rainwater but also that falling here that she was honoured by Baden Powell ity – Brahma, Vishnu and Maheswara. It is con- erage plan for the city. The ob- on the open spaces around their who awarded her the ‘Silver Wolf’, the highest sidered a dwelling place for these three Gods. jections of Ellis to Tulloch’s buildings which will give them Scout honour. She even performed the wedding The tree is associated with most Shiva plan have been detailed in the even more water security and of the Principal of the Besant Theosophical temples in South India. article. Unfortunately, Ellis died reduced dependence on piped College beneath the Banyan tree. An aqueous extract of the bark shows anti- in 1877. But (according to water. Annie Besant died in September 1933 and bacterial activity. The tree has high medicinal shortly afterwards G.S. Arundale started the value. Sriram V.), Florence Nightin- Indukanth S. Ragade Besant Memorial School at Besant Gardens and The decorated Peepal leaf featured here is gale lobbied hard with letters to [email protected] Damodar Gardens. The prayer hall itself was considered a good luck charm. It is often used built below a cluster of mango trees, with as a greeting ‘card’. Cudappa slabs laid for students to sit on, cross- K.V.S. Krishna legged, and the teachers had cement-slabbed [email protected] The Sullivan trail

015 marks three decades of my following the trail of John 2Sullivan, the founder of modern Nilgiris. Some ideas for Madras Week In June 1985, I set out on the trail after placing a bunch of flowers on the grave of Mrs. Sullivan and his daughter who are hy am I interested in We are keen to seek four streets that make the west buried in St.Stephen’s Church, Ooty. It was followed by a series Wmusicians who meet on a out busybodies and community zone of this neighbourhood of of articles in various dailies and journals. terrace in T’Nagar to jam on a heads who are not yet in the and still carry fond In 1991, we started a campaign to convert the ruins of weekend and musicians who Madras Week spirit and are memories of street cricket, Sullivan’s first house in Kannerimukku village, Kotagiri, as a head to Bay Leaf to listen to eager to kick off their own Saint Anthony’s festival, memorial. I petitioned the state and the district administration some retro and classic rock events. Christmas parties and tiled several times. Exhibitions were oraganised in Chennai and Ooty music? houses are eager to put old pic- Srividya who works with city to build support. I am not looking for talent. tures, stories and records to- NGOs is enthusiastic about I am trying to see how musi- gether. In 2002, as part of the International Year of the Mountains, planning a mela at a college cians can put their heads to- So the call is going out to all I led a group of trekkers on the same path that Sullivan took to campus which will star the city’s reach the Nilgiris in 1819. The ‘Discovery of Ooty March’ took gether to write songs on our of you who can curate an event earliest charities – showcase three days. That same year, Sullivan’s Kannerimukku house was city. And then put their hands that is about your area, your their history, the work they do rebuilt as a heritage building. to the instruments. community, your line of activ- and put on sale anything that Koothu artistes are doing a ity – an event that banks on the In 2004 to mark the 150th death anniversary of Sullivan, we people may want to buy or sup- lot of this sort. More so, after past and looks at the future. An had a public procession and a meeting in Ooty followed by a port. photo exhibition at the British Council, Chennai. Tamil film makers turned to event that makes Madras what In 2006 we took over the maintenance of the Kannerimukku them for inspiration, ideas and it is. bungalow and moved the Nilgiri Documentation Centre and curation as more and more films G by I am scheduled to meet a the Nilgiri History Museum into it. base their stories in Kasimedu school HM and some fisherfolk leaders in . To In June 2009, after a search lasting over a decade and aided and Royapuram. Vincent D’Souza by the internet, I located the grave of Sullivan at St. Laurence It is that time of the year broach ideas, seek support, cre- when a group of us start work- ate venue partners... Church, Upton-cum-Chalvey in the UK and went there in July Quizmaster Sumanth Ra- to pay our respects on behalf of the people of Nilgiris. ing on the annual Madras Week Meanwhile, we are on FB celebrations – held to celebrate man hopes to curate a ‘Best (), and at www.the The Nilgiri Documentation Centre (NDC) and the Nilgiri the founding of this city of ours. App for the City’ contest and is madrasday.in. Mail us at History Museum (NHM) have functioned as a fitting tribute to August 22 is Madras Day keen to get one big time IT [email protected] John Sullivan from 2006 to 2015 educating visitors from all over company which will not only India and abroad. and our focus is on the August 16 to 23 period when we en- offer a few great cash prizes but * * * In March this year, we handed over the Sullivan Memorial also spend on some promos to courage everybody to host an One Madras Week event to the district administration to continue its journey in a get all our smart geeks to work event that celebrates Madras curated was a tour of the new avatar, but the NDC and the NHM continue in other pre- for this contest. that is Chennai. churches in San Thomè. It mises. The neighbourhood social This is perhaps the largest of wasn’t easy – one of the nuns histories as an idea which has Dharmalingam Venugopal its kind of events that is volun- gave us a mouthful when I led Nilgiri Documentation Centre tary, informal and starts from taken some root in Kotagiri the grassroots. That it has may well sprout in Pudupet. remained so is gratifying. People who used to live in the (Continued on page 4) 4 MADRAS MUSINGS July 1-15, 2015 July 1-15, 2015 MADRAS MUSINGS 5 The French From Madras to Kodai influence to look at the stars he man who selected the G It has been about 115 years got a B Sc degree in engineering. ubramaniam Subbiah Iyer Subramania Bharati is one of Tsite, established and equip- since the establishment of After working in the Carib- Swas born on December 11, the great nationalist poets, ped the Kodaikanal Observatory Kodaikanal Observatory as an bean laying submarine cables, he 1882 in Ettayapuram, Tinnevelly social reformers, writers and in 1899 in the face of major diffi- got an appointment from the District. He studied at the extension of the original revolutionaries of modern culties was Charles Michie Free Church Foreign Missions English School in Tinnevelly. Smith, a Professor of Physics at Madras Observatory, which Committee, Scotland, as a Pro- Recognising Subbiah’s poetic India. His works were mostly , who has evolved into the present fessor of Mathematics and Phys- talent, the vidwans of Ettaya- in Tamil, his mother tongue. slowly got lured into astronomy Indian Institute of Astrophy- ics at Madras Christian College puram conferred upon him the Besides Tamil, he has also and became the Government as- sics in Bangalore. It is also the (MCC). title ‘Bharati’ in 1893. The name produced some wonderful po- tronomer at Madras Observatory first mountain observatory in Smith arrived in India in early The Madras Christian College senate in 1880. G. Patterson is sitting on the stuck and he came to be known ems and prose in English. first and then the founder-Direc- 1877 at the age of 22 to take up left, William Miller (Principal) in the centre and Charles Cooper on the right. India. Charles Michie Smith Standing (from left to right) are A. Alexander, G.M. Rae and Michie Smith. as Subramania Bharati. Bharati was recognised as a tor of Kodaikanal Observatory the job at MCC. “Life in India After his marriage and his was the man who selected the Mahakavi, i.e. Great Poet, later. (Even after retirement appeared to suit him eminently. father’s death, Bharati was sent from the Observatory he contin- site, established the observa- He threw himself vigorously into confidently reckoned on during The Indian Observatories to Banares for his high school only several years after his ued to live in Kodaikanal where tory and directed it for the his work both at College and the year and where, owing to the Committee, chaired by Lord studies. Banares shaped him as a death. Bharati’s house in Pondicherry. he died and was buried there.) first 12 years. He was also the University. He started the Chris- absence of dust and haze, the Kelvin, resolved in October 1892 nationalist. He also read a lot of In this article I adopt a step- conditions are most favourable.” that the “Committee highly ap- Pondicherry, with Liberté, egating them to downtrodden that his talents were limited and The foundation for what he man who recruited John tian College Magazine and con- Western literature there. Of all Meanwhile, Pogson became proves of the proposal to estab- by-step chronological ap- Equalité, Fraternité as the motto conditions for a long time. He so he wrote in order that others did was laid in a letter dated May Evershed, discoverer of the fa- tributed articles on a variety of the Western poets, Shelley cap- ill in June 1891 and was diag- lish an Imperial Observatory for proach to unravel the special that appeared in its masthead. stated that what the Hindus had might follow his guidance. He 15, 1882 addressed to the Chief mous Evershed effect, and es- science subjects ranging from de- tivated him the most. He did not nosed as suffering from virulent India on a site to be chosen in the features in his life that He became fascinated with done to the Pallars and the also affirmed that it was Secretary of the Government of velopment of practical electric- just admire Shelley’s poetical tablished Kodaikanal Observa- cancer in the liver. His commit- highlands of Southern India” and enabled Bharati to emerge as France and its values which Parayars was being done to them Parashakti herself who had in- Fort St. George by Norman ity, meteors, volcanic eruptions, genius, but also his ideas and tory as a major centre for so- ment to astronomy was such that also that “the Committee, from shaped his thought and writings (the Hindus/Indians) by the Brit- spired him to work for rejuvenat- Pogson, the Government As- zodiacal light and even the de- fascination for the French Revo- a Mahakavi. lar physics. Michie Smith, the he immediately tried to put his personal knowledge of Mr. in Pondicherry. He considered ish. ing the Tamil race. He wanted to tronomer, who states, “I have the velopments at Madras Observa- lution and its slogan of ‘Liberté, affairs in order and even wrote a Smith’s ability and attainments, – J.B.P. More the French nation as the mother In 1912, another of Bharati’s implement Tamil everywhere honour to supplement one very person, and the establishment tory. He took much interest in Equalité and Fraternité’. letter to the Government about are of opinion that he would be a of freedom and representative masterpieces, Panchali Sabatham, and in everything. He criticised important suggestion ... upon the of Kodaikanal Observatory are physical training of youth in the Not going on for higher stud- his possible successor. The letter very suitable Superintendent of democracy. saw the light. Its first part was the South Indian political lead- desirability of establishing a looked at here in the context Presidency. He became the joint ies, Bharati returned to Ettaya- stated, “The individual who is the proposed Solar Physics Sec- After Bharati came to Pondi- published in 1912, while the sec- ers of his time, who shunned branch observatory, equipped of the early studies in physi- secretary to the Madras Physical puram in 1902. In 1904, he pub- most intimately acquainted with tion of the Imperial Indian Ob- cherry, in continuation of Swa- ond part was released after speaking in Tamil. He declared with a large modern equatorial Training and Field Games Asso- lished his first Tamil poem cal astronomy (observational the details and (steps) of my servatory.” The Madras Govern- desa Gitangal, a second compila- Bharati’s death. Bharati modified that only foolish people believed telescope at a hill station in ciation which tried to encourage Thanimai Irakkam in the Tamil astrophysics) in India. (past) labours in the Madras Ob- ment agreed to hand over the ob- tion titled Janma Bhoomi was a part of epic Maha- that Tamil would die and all South India. athletics in schools and colleges. journal Vivekabhanu in Madurai, servatory is Professor C. Michie servatory to the Government of published in 1909. It contained bharata for this work. It demon- Indian languages would be “I strongly urge that a large He was secretary to the Madras edited by Pulavar Kandasamy Smith, B Sc. He is a Fellow of the India and expressed a strong 17 poems. The very next year a strated the slave-like condition replaced by English. He was in new telescope should be ordered Literary Society for a number of Kavirayar. Later that year he Royal Astronomical Society and favourable opinion about Michie third volume of 15 songs, titled of India and compared the favour of Tamil as the medium with as little delay as possible, to years. He was a member and joined the Swadesamitran in Ma- Matha Vasagam, saw the light. shameful undressing of Draupadi of instruction in schools and be placed at a hill-station, as far President for several years of the dras as a sub-editor. In the news- above sea level as convenient; Friends-in-Need Society. He These songs were essentially au- to the despoiling of Bharatha colleges. He once wrote, “If the G paper he was at a vantage point by tobiographical and patriotic in Mata or Mother India of his day effulgence of Tamil does not but whether the Nilgiris or the took up responsibilities as a Fel- to reflect upon the various hap- N. Kameswara Rao, A. Vagiswari and nature. In the same year Bha- by the British. He accused India’s spread in the whole world, Palani Hills would be best suited low and, later, member of the penings in the country and the rati’s philosophical story titled politicians and religious leaders change my name.” for the purpose, I am not yet pre- Syndicate of Madras University Christina Birdie world. He repeatedly expressed Gnanaratham (Chariot of Know- of quarrelling and fighting with Yet, he was fluent in English pared to advise...” for several years. He was from the his love for his mother country Subramania Bharati. ledge) was published. one another, instead of trying to and Sanskrit. Even before 1910, Pogson’s proposal was en- start popular with the students. through poems and essays, which of the Royal Society of Smith, stating that “he was by his Bharati had to wind up his save Mother India from the he had translated from Sanskrit dorsed by the Governor in March All this was done while he attracted a wide cross-section of hearing that he might be arrested Edinburgh and has for several special scientific attainments and journalistic pursuits in 1911 for clutches of the Whites. parts of the Vedas and Upani- 1883. “His Excellency believes... continued his own researches on the Tamil-reading public. Bharati fled to French years past been entrusted by the knowledge of the conditions of various reasons. It was at this Though the prime objective shads and the Yoga Sutras of it would be in the interests of sci- meteorology and astronomy. He Vangamai Vazhiyavay was his first Pondicherry in September 1908. Royal Society of London with a scientific work of India, pecu- stage that Bharati opened a new of Panchali Sabatham was to seek Patanjali into Tamil. All this ence to equip such an observa- participated in the activities of nationalist poem. In 1907-08, 16 In Pondicherry Bharati large and valuable spectroscope liarly fitted for the appointment page in his life. Instead of taking the liberation of Mother India, it shows that Bharati was ex- tory as is indicated. No officer Charles Michie Smith. the Madras Observatory and was of his poems were published un- familarised himself with French for researches on the Zodiacal of Director of the Solar Physics entirely to religion and spiritual- had other objectives too. One of tremely well versed in Sanskrit could probably be found better a great help to his friend Norman der the title, Swadesa Gitangal. culture and civilisation. He light. I may add that he has un- Observatory.” ity, like Aurobindo, his attention them was the development of the too. He never stood for the puri- qualified to start a new station tunately, with them, particularly Pogson. He regularly communi- Due to differences of opinion learnt the French language. He dergone a course of training in Finally, the Secretary of State turned more towards social re- Tamils and the Tamil language. fication of Tamil as attempted by than Mr Pogson.” The Astrono- by his father. The middle name cated his researches to the Pro- with G. Subramania Iyer, Bharati read the works produced by Practical Astronomy under Dr. for India in a letter dated August form and literature. This becomes quite apparent Maraimalai Adigal; he was for mer Royal, W.H.M. Christie, Michie in Charlie’s name comes ceedings of the Royal Society of quit Swadesamitran in 1906 and French revolutionary thinkers Copeland, Astronomer Royal of 31, 1893 to the Governor- In a short story titled ‘Aaril through his Preface. He says in it the enrichment of Tamil through meanwhile, advised, “That the from his paternal grandmother. Edinburgh. joined a journal called India, that and writers, poets and philoso- Scotland. I would therefore ur- General of India stated that after Oru Pangu’ (One-sixth), written that those who write in ordinary Sanskrit. establishment of a branch obser- Charlie was the most practical of Because of his researches in was just starting, as its unde- phers like Voltaire, Victor Hugo, gently advise and solicit as my receiving endorsements from the in Pondicherry in 1910, Bharati Tamil, with a simple style, which vatory on the Pulney Hills in the all the children and had a special meteorology and astronomy, the clared editor. Bharati now had Diderot, Jean Jacques Rousseau, * This article is based on J.R.P. More’s Madurai district, seven thousand Governor considered Michie dying wish that the said Profes- Indian Observatories Committee charged the Hindus with ill- the people can appreciate, will book Puducheri Valartha Bharathiar, pub- interest in both woodwork and free rein to become a radical na- Montesquieu and Proudhon. He sor C. Michie Smith might be ap- through the Astronomer Royal’s treating the depressed castes, give new life to the Tamil lan- lished by Leon Prouchandy Memorial feet above sea level, would be the astronomy. His sister writes that Smith “a gentleman of consider- tionalist writer and poet. But then restarted India in pointed my successor as I am letter and the Solar Physics who formed one-sixth of the to- guage. He, however, admitted Sangam, Pondicherry, in 2011. best for spectroscopic re- even as a boy he had a workshop able scientific attainments” and convinced that this alone will Committee through the letter tal Hindu population, and rel- that the task was immense and (To be concluded) searches...’ in a secluded corner of the gar- invited him to conduct site sur- The Governor requested den equipped with a large work vey in Palani hills for the branch ensure my unfinished works from its secretary, on the pro- CHENNAI HERITAGE Michie Smith, “a gentleman of bench and a huge assortment of observatory. would be completed as closely as posal of establishing on a small considerable scientific attain- tools on which he had spent all Smith conducted his site sur- possible as if I had lived to finish scale a new observatory at No. 5, Bhattad Tower, 30, Westcott Road, , Chennai 600 014 Some ideas about Madras Week ments”, who was a Professor of his pocket money, of course, veys for a hill observatory in two them myself....” Kodaikanal in the Palani hills I am already on your mailing list (Mailing List No...... ) / Physics at Madras Christian Col- thoroughly disapproved by his fa- instalments covering the period Pogson died on June 23, 1891, (under the Direction of Michie I have just seen Madras Musings and would like to receive it hereafter. (Continued from page 3) Recently, the Chennai Food , and Mir- lege, also trained in practical as- ther. His other interest was pho- May to July 1883 in the Palani and the Madras Government ap- Smith), “I sanction your propos- G I/We enclose cheque/demand draft/money order for Rs. 100 Walks group explored eating sahibpet. tronomy and well acquainted tography. He was taught at home hills and January 1885 in Dodda- pointed to the vacancy thus cre- als, which involve an initial out- (Rupees One hundred) payable to CHENNAI HERITAGE, the group into this 16th Century, joints in Mylapore. They touch- But this can happen only if with Pogson and the Madras Ob- by his father till he went to Uni- betta and its surroundings (the ated “Mr C. Michie Smith, B.Sc., lay of Rs 25,000 and yearly in- MADRAS, as subscription to Madras Musings for the year Portuguese-built church. ed Rayars and Kalathi to residents of the area share infor- servatory, to undertake the site Nilgiris). His conclusions were F.R.A.S., F.R.S. EDIN. as crease of Rs 1689.” The control 2015-16. versity. He suffered from his Walks and tours are a great gorge on steaming idli-vada and mation, help do a recce or be the survey in Palani hills for a proper father’s ire through being a poor that the site in Kodaikanal, on officiatory Government As- of the Madras Observatory and G As token of my support for the causes of heritage, environment way to explore neighbourhoods. drink ice-cold rosemilk, but its leader of the pack. and a better city that Madras Musings espouses, I send Chennai site for the observatory. classical scholar, though brilliant the western side, at a height of tronomer. By August 5, 1892 the funds connected with it were And I am happy that many curator, Sridhar Venkataraman, Walks can be educative and 7700 feet above sea level, with Michie Smith completed further transferred to the Government Heritage an additional Rs...... * * * at Maths, which “…at times dis- (Rupees ...... ) Please keep/put me on young, enterprising people tells me a few new eateries, ‘hot’ fun. tinctly strained the relationship uninterrupted view of the hori- investigations of the two pro- of India from April 1, 1894, plac- your mailing list. are curating tours during week- for food, have been included in Can someone curate a shop- Charles Michie Smith was between father and son so that zons, was eminently suitable for spective sites for the hill obser- ing the organisation and man- Name : ...... ends. the group’s Walk list. ping tour of Pondy Bazzar? For born in Aberdeenshire, Scot- he was pleased to leave home for a hill observatory. vatory and submitted a report for agement of the new Solar Phys- Address: ...... One group is of passionate bindis and saree falls, glass land, to a minister of the Free King’s College in Aberdeen” in The Governor urged very the third time regarding their ics Observatory under the Me- ...... photographers, another loves to This group has done Sowcar- bangles and soft toys. Or, with Church and his wife. Charlie to 1870. After graduating, with an strongly the advisability of relative merits. The report was teorological Reporter of the Gov- All cheques to ‘Chennai Heritage’. DD/Cheque should be sent by cycle and a third is made up of pet and Purasai, and the D’Monte Colony film tickling all, he had to follow two brilliant MA at Aberdeen, Charlie went establishing a branch observa- considered by both the Solar ernment of India. – (Courtesy: Speed Post only. foodies while there is one on . And there could be people, a Haunted Spaces tour? elder brothers and inherited the to Edinburgh to continue his tory in these hills, “where a large Physics Committee and the In- Current Science) Tamil heritage. more to come – Anna Nagar and (Courtesy: Mylapore Times) legacy of being compared, unfor- scientific studies and ultimately portion of clear nights may be dian Observatories Committee. (To be concluded) 6 MADRAS MUSINGS July 1-15, 2015 This is my own, TWO PAGES OF share the sentiments of N. IRam. I too would not, of my free will, live anywhere else in my native open terrace, where we often time we were not aware of her the world. Madras was my home slept on humid nights, we were fame or prowess. Sadly I have to for the first 25 years of my life. woken up in the wee hours dur- admit that the closed middle- Marriage, my career, children, ing the month of Margazhi to the class thinking of those days led their education and their future Madras strains of the songs belting out to a feeling of uneasiness have all made me a wanderer on of the loudspeaker. Covering our amongst the rest of us as we did foreign sands. But within me ears with the pillows and softly not comprehend the bourgeois very innovative elder sister came beats a Madrasi heart which is at cursing the loud music we would lifestyle she led with many “I was born in Madras up with a strategy – she would peace only when I am back in try to go back to sleep and even- people moving in and out of her and have lived in this buy a whole bunch of mallippoo the enveloping embrace of the tually did as we got used to the house. She was very much a re- most congenial of me- (jasmine flower strands) which city at regular, frequent inter- early morning intrusion into our cluse and did not have much to tropolises – this unhur- she would distribute to all of us. vals. In one of my recent visits to slumber. I would give anything do with the others living on the We would all hold the flowers Madras, I picked up A Madras ried, cultured, mature, in the world now to own and live same street. under our noses while watching Miscellany by S. Muthiah and no-frills, surprisingly in a home in Mylapore with an My middle-class background, Sivaji emote and MGR vanquish leafing through the pages I am green, and progressive open terrace from which I can and living in a fairly conservative the baddies. Subsequently, with experiencing an overpowering catch a glimpse of the temple family, resulted in two challeng- city by the sea – for all the Safires and Shanthis and rush of nostalgia for all those gopuram and hear the Margazhi ing experiences in my life in Ma- but three years of my Anands on Mount Road, our days, months and years spent in matham songs as the night slowly dras. The first, when I was still in life. I would not, of my ventures expanded into better the lap of this great city. recedes and the sun’s rays wake school (Rosary Matriculation) I free will, live anywhere quality cinema experiences lead- I have had a successful career up the city. had participated in an inter- ing all the way to Kamal Haasan, as an architect in Bahrain and else in India or the We later moved into an old school science competition. I Rajinikanth and K. Balachander am currently an academic, world.” rented house on Edward Elliot’s won the second prize and my days. Watching Sound of Music, teaching Management in a uni- – N. Ram Road (subsequently called Dr. classmate won the third prize. My Fair Lady, Lawrence of Arabia versity in Sydney. But if some- in the Foreword to Radhakrishnan Salai) where we Her father escorted us to the and Gone with the wind in these one were to ask me what has A Madras Miscellany lived for many years and those Awards ceremony which was at state-of-the-art cinemas was an been the most satisfying achieve- by S. Muthiah were among the best years in my a posh venue – not very sure, but out of the world experience. I ment in my life, I would defi- life. I am proud to say that I had may have been the Gymkhana can vividly recall the entire cin- nitely pick the sporadic journal- neighbours who have subse- Club. There I met a German girl ema filled with the scent of flow- istic endeavours which I have Sydney and in fact a larger quently become very famous – who was the recipient of the first ers as Omar Sharif threw the gar- engaged in over the years in Ma- variety as we get merchandise Parasaran, Senior, and Mohan prize and she was the first for- land towards Peter O’Toole with dras, ‘The Gulf’ and Sydney. All from many cities in India; almost eigner I had met in my life (if I every suburb boasts of an Indian the words ‘Flowers for the vic- of this has been inspired by a G discount the Italian Mother tor’! by spur of the moment’s decision to restaurant; I get cleaners to Teresa Xavier whom I had seen Eating out was a weekly ex- Sheela Sree Kumar enrol in a Diploma in Journalism come in on a regular basis; fam- only in her nun’s garments at travagance with my father until course at the Bharatiya Vidya ily and friends are frequent visi- school). I was all excited and he died when I was twelve years Bhavan, Madras, many, many tors, and technology has eradi- scared and I can still relive the old. We would walk to Luz from Parasaran (he was a small boy years ago... and the tutelage of cated distances. So what in real- experience when delicious look- our house in Mylapore to do our then), the father and son duo S. Muthiah and VPV Rajan, ity do I miss about Madras? ing food was served on the plate Is it the city or the past? The vegetable and other shopping, who both became Advocate- then the editor of The Mail. in front of me and I struggled and this had become a ritual, Generals. Mrs. Parasaran (or What do I miss most living in line seems blurred as I note with my fork and knife. When I walk into the restaurant ‘Shanti Saroja mami as we called her) a foreign country? I have down the images that float in came back home late at night Vihar’ on Kutchery Road where reflected the life of the small brushed the question away with front of my eyes... and had everyone giggle when he would buy me an ice cream community we lived in (made stock answers – the food, of One of my earliest memories my mother would heat up food and watch me eat it with relish. possible by the fact that our course; having servants to do the is of me as a very young child for me. The second episode oc- It had never occurred to me to street ended in a dead end with housework; my family, my wetting my hands in the water curred when I was invited to at- question why he did not eat any- a wall separating us from Judge friends. These answers are no that flowed from the tap. I would tend a Lion’s Club meeting to re- thing himself – I treated it as my Jambulinga Mudaliar Street). longer valid – every type of then tap a small amount of ceive my award as the best IV birthright, but looking back, the Her house was the first one to Indian grocery is available in Gopal palpodi (tooth powder) year student from the School of into the cupped palm of my left patriarch of a large family had get a television and I remember Architecture – though more ma- hand. Dipping my right forefin- obviously been economising and how all of us would flock to her ture and worldly, the trepidation READABILITY PLEASE ger into the powder, I would pro- I am filled with shame that I had place to watch the weekly epi- was still there to be amongst all been so inconsiderate. sode on Ramayana. Saroja mami Dear Readers, ceed to clean my teeth examin- those successful businessmen ing my pink teeth in the mirror Reminiscing about the past and her daughter Rangam would and I think of the experience As letters from readers hanging on the wall mottled by and about life in Madras will not spread mats on the floor for all every time I attend a Lion’s Club increase, we are receiving black spots where the coating be complete without referring to of us and, best of all serve more and more hand meeting of which I am a member had been eaten up... as I write our shopping trips to Nalli Silks prasadam during the interval! now. written letters, many of this, the tantalising taste of and Children’s Corner in Luz, She was such a generous woman them in a hand so small and Times and outlook have Gopal palpodi fills my being and I Colombo Stores on Kutchery with an incredible sense of changed. Forks and knives are illegible or large and scraw- tell myself that when I am in Ma- Road and the hours of matching humour – her best joke was her led as to be unreadable. not alien any more. Unlike N. dras next I should investigate blouses to sarees at Rani Cut- claim that her husband won all Often this leads to our Ram, I cannot claim the privi- the history of the company – did piece Centre. Over the years we the court cases because the op- discarding a letter, parti- lege of having lived in Madras all they adapt and move into the remained loyal to Luz shopping position could not understand cularly if some part of it is my life. But I have those precious centre but the city had changed what he was saying as he spoke unreadable. If you wish us to toothpaste world or were they 25 years. No one can take those made extinct by the toothpaste so much that we were compelled so fast! She left the world a few years away from me. Random consider your letter for years ago but her smile display- publication, please type it companies? to do most of our shopping in thoughts pour in, evoking im- ing her ‘vetthalai’ stained teeth with enough space between Movies were (and still are) T.Nagar. But our family still fol- ages, scents, voices, faces and is still fresh in my memory. lines or write it using a my passion. Living in Mylapore, lows a tradition – the first saree emotions from the past – a past Other neighbours who are medium hand, clearly my earliest memories are of our for any wedding in the family has which definitely holds some of dotting the ‘i-s’ and crossing favourite haunts (more out of to be bought from Nalli Silks in now well known are Usha the best years of my life. convenience than choice), Luz! The owner would rever- Ramanathan who has carved a the ‘t-s’. Breathes there the man with soul ‘Kamadhenu’ in Luz and ‘Kapali’ ently place the saree we pur- niche for herself as a Human Many readers also try to fill so dead in Mandaivalli. I believe both do chased in front of the deity in the Rights activist and lawyer based every square centimetre of a Who never to himself hath said, not exist any more, taken over shop and hand it over to us after in Delhi, and her sister Sharada postcard space, making This is my own, my native land! by real estate developers. The a small prayer. Ramanathan who has made a reading or editing impos- Whose heart hath ne’er within him ticket price which seemed a big Living in the proximity of foray into the world of films with sible. Please help us to con- burned, amount those days was a mere Kapaleeswarar temple erased the her debut directorial venture sider your letters more As home his footsteps he hath Rs. 2.50. It would get us the best Shiva-Vishnu divide for our Sringaram and now her docu- favourably by making them turned seats in the house. But even the family as we went there often to mentary on Indian classical more legible for us. From wandering on a foreign best seats could not keep out the pray in spite of having Krishna- dance Natyanubhav. Another fa- – THE EDITOR strand! strong stench of urine which swamy as our surname and Balaji mous neighbour was the dancer would hang inside the hall. A as our family deity. From our Chandralekha though at the – Sir Walter Scott (1771-1832) July 1-15, 2015 MADRAS MUSINGS 7 NOSTALGIA Two not out of steam ● Steam engines have (By Kumar Chellappan) the gradient. Meanwhile, the always caught the imagi- Rockfort Express for Chennai nation of the young and gradients. It was thrilling be- left Tiruchi at 10 p.m. and was old alike. These locomoti- cause you had to think on your on its way. The route was yet to ves were so awe-inspiring feet all the time and find solu- be doubled. There was no way to that their sheer presence tions midway. You had to be an made the drivers stars in communicate with the guard or their own right. The en- all-purpose man,” recalls Van- with the nearest station,” re- gine driver was revered as haltren, his skin still tanned by counts Vanhaltren. he was the interface be- the heated furnance. “I can feel All of a sudden the train tween the passengers and the coal dust in my mouth. And started moving back because of the organisation. Old tim- my lungs still have some sooty loss in pressure. Since there was ers along the Tiruchirap- carbon content”, he adds. no pressure, the brakes too could palli-Villupuram stretch Steam loco drivers turn rough not be applied. But the train Gerard Vanhaltren ... still vividly remember two and tough because of the nature came to a halt as the momentum such drivers, Gerard Van- of the job and the temperature slowed and Vanhaltren took to had magic fingers. The smooth- at Mayiladuthurai. We were haltren (72) and Rudolph ness with which he brought the about to leave for Tiruchi when Jeremiah (73), superstars inside the engine. “There was no his legs and made it to the near- of Southern Railway’s room for bantering and solilo- est railway station. “Luckily for engine to life and gently took it the Piston Gland Packing Tiruchi division for almost quies while on duty. When we us, the station master of one of forward was something to be ex- (PGP), which prevents the 35 years. negotiated curves and gradients, the halts which we were sup- perienced. There was no jerk or steam from escaping from the our minds had to be at their posed to cross after Virudacha- jolt and the ride was a smooth boiler, collapsed. Though all and lanky Gerard Van- sharpest and work in sync with lam noticed the delay in our ar- affair. Whether it was steam lo- Jeremiah approached the main- Thaltren, a descendant of cos or diesel engines, Vanhaltren tenance staff for help, they asked Dutch immigrants who came to made a big differnece,” certifies him to wait as they were attend- India in the 18th Century and Amalraj. And the man himself ing to another job. So he tink- made Nagapattinam in Tamil says of his art, “I treated the en- ered with some instruments and Nadu their home, joined the gine like a human, tender and got a new PGP ready in minutes. Railways as part of his family tra- soft.” “The train left the station on dition. His grandfather, Aliek, * * * time and reached Tiruchi as per was the driver of a Mail train in Life has not changed much schedule. Had we waited for the Tiruchi division, while father for Rudolph Jeremiah who bade maintenance staff to attend to Alfred was a master technician farewell to Indian Railways in the fault, we would have been at Tiruchi’s Golden Rock Work- 2000 after working for 28 years delayed by at least three hours,” shop. “That was the tradition. If as a steam loco driver before recalls Balasubramanian. you were born in a Railway switching to diesel engines. Jeremiah, who has a passion colony, you joined the Railways What is unique about Jeremiah for all kinds of electrical and as a fish takes to water. It was an is the kind of passengers who had mechanical instruments and unwritten rule,” reminisces boarded trains hauled by him. gadgets, says he was honoured by Vanhaltren, now leading a re- Jeremiah was in command of the the authorities the next day in tired life at Crawford Colony in Prime Minister’s Special Train Tiruchi. But the senior engineer Tiruchi. ... and Rudolph Jeremiah, both remembering the past. which took Jawaharlal Nehru told him, “We know your Once he completed school- from Villupuram to Neyveli for passion for punctuality and ing, Vanhaltren appeared for the the engine. An eye on the water rival and alerted all the nearest the commissioning of its thermal discipline and at times you may Railway Service Commission level, another eye on the quan- stations. The Rockfort Express power plant in 1963. have to make some compro- Examination. “I was appointed tity of coal and both eyes on the was blocked at one of these. Jeremiah, who joined the mises.” as apprentice Fireman in Sep- signal towers... That’s how steam Normalcy could be restored only Railways as an apprentice fire- Like Vanhaltren, Jeremiah tember 1963 when I was nine- loco drivers worked,” he relates. after the arrival of a relief engine man in 1962, followed the foot- too was very much in demand. teen. The training was really Vanhaltren did not have a from Virudachalam,” he says. steps of his father Frederick who “When passengers saw me, they tough. You needed to be physi- single accident in his 38-year ca- Petharaj, a former station was a special engine driver with would raise the thumb of the cally and mentally fit to undergo reer. “But there were occsional master, who was an ardent fan the Railways. right hand as a sign of acknow- the gruelling schedules. But they failures due to other factors. of Vanhaltren, remembers the An engine driver’s job was ledgment. Trains hauled by me helped me develop my will- Once I was hauling a 1,000 incident with mixed feelings. “It demanding, says Jeremigh. “Af- never lost a single minute during power,” narrates Vanhaltren. tonne train on the Villupuram- was Ger’s (as Vanhaltren is ter 12 hours of hard work in a running hours,” remembers Jere- He was promoted as shunting Tiruchi route, known for its called by friends) presence of steam loco, all that you want is a miah. driver in 1968, underwent ad- steep gradients. It was raining all mind which saved the day. his bath and sleep. You wake up all He regrets that the Railways vanced training in diesel locoo- the way from Villupuram. We devotion and dedication could refreshed and energised for an- has completely phased out steam motives and successfully com- have to maintain a particular be seen by the speed with which other grilling schedule,” he adds. engines from service. “I can pleted the tough LM-16 (Loco level of water in the boiler. Any he made to the nearest station Like Vanhaltren, Jeremiah too understand they are not eco- Mechanism) programme. “Only increase or decrease in the levels in the rain as there were no mod- almost had a soul connect with friendly. But the steam locos are a hardy man could become a would melt the lead plugs which ern communication facilities.” his engine. “The moment I en- the one and only link we have steam locomotive driver. These provide the heat to boil the wa- The station master also re- tered my cabin, I would go into a with the earlier days of the locos were open on all sides and ter. We crossed Virudachalam at members how daily commuters trance. Nothing else crept into pioneers. We could have main- you were exposed to the ele- 10 in the night. The rainfall in- would ask him who was the en- my mind. I became a part of the tained them in museums and ments of nature; the scorching creased as we moved forward. gine driver for the day. “The engine as much as the engine have short runs for visitors as a sun of the summer or the heavy The entire coal stock in the ten- moment I mentioned Vanhal- became a part of me,” he relates. piece of living heritage,” he downpours of the monsoon. You der box got soaked. Once the tren, they would nod their heads Balasubramanian, his col- suggests. had to monitor all kinds of pa- required quantity of coal could in appreciation ‘Today we will be league and a shunting driver in These days, he and Vanhal- rameters while operating the not be fed to the fire box, the on time,’ they used to say.” Tiruchi, describes Jeremiah as a tren keep memories alive by steam locos – the water level in pressure started dropping. This Amalraj, a retired electrician troubleshooter par excellence. walking to the Tiruchirappalli the boiler, the quantity of coal resulted in the lowering of water of the Southern Railway, who is “He used to attend to even ma- Railway Junction museum to which had to be shoveled into level, fall in pressure and steam. an avid buff of steam locomo- jor faults and repair works in the look at the exhibits and re-live the firebox, the speed of the The lead plug melted and the tives, explains the reason behind engine all by himself. I remem- their past. (Courtesy: Anglos in train, signals and, of course, the train came to a halt at the top of the expertise of Vanhaltren. “He ber an incident which happened the Wind) 8 MADRAS MUSINGS July 1-15, 2015

The rear of the Secretariat as it used to be (left) and the 1950s building (right) that hides it today. KNOW YOUR FORT BETTER (Continued from page 1) the budget was revised first to 6,600 and later to 13,916 Clive rendered the old building superfluous and it be- star pagodas. The work went on for six months and at came a godown. In 1910, the then Governor, Sir were given for the construction of a new Fort House the end of it, several features that we now recognise in Arthur Lawley, recommended that the building be dis- “being 110 foot in length and 55 foot in breadth, to be the building were in place. mantled and the best pillars out of the lot be incorpo- built on the East side of the Fort att 18 foot distance Chief among these is the verandah on the eastern rated into the new frontage of the Secretariat. Accord- from the Godown Wall and att equall distance from side and a corresponding one on the west. The latter ing to Rao Sahib C.S. Srinivasachari’s History of the City the North and South Walls.” also had two short wings projecting to the west and two of Madras (1939), a plaque to this effect has been let The new building was ready by September 1695 and, new flights of stairs, also on the western side. The two into the wall of the Legislative Council (now Assem- to quote Love, “there exists satisfactory evidence that wings were further extended in 1825 when they pro- bly) Chamber. the middle portion” of the present Secretariat Building jected north and south, bringing the Secretariat build- The building at present has a dual, or even triple, dates from this construction of 1694. By the 1750s, this ing to its present dimensions. By then, the structure function. To the east is the magnificent Assembly building was referred to as the Great House. Its inter- was being referred to as Government Office. The build- chamber and to its rear are the secretarial areas. The nal arrangements had remained unchanged for over six ing appears to have remained as it was for the next 90 top floor houses the offices of the ministers of the Tamil decades – the bombproof ground floor had offices, the years or so, apart from regular maintenance and repair. Nadu Government. It must be remembered that Ma- first floor had the common dining facility referred to as It must have been electrified early in the 20th Century dras/Tamil Nadu had a bicameral legislature from 1936 the General Table, and the top floor had the Consulta- for, Mrs. Penny in her book writes that “long after dark to the 1980s. The lower house or the Assembly became tion Room and Governor’s Quarters. In 1752, a storm the lights in the Secretariat testify to the diligence of more powerful over a period of time and, after peregri- caused serious damage to the building but it remained the hard-worked Under Secretaries.” nating to various places, eventually came to occupy the structurally sound, unlike its predecessor. Testimony In 1910, a new round of construction began. Ma- chamber of the upper house, or the Council, which by to its strength was further evident when, during the dras had had a Legislative Council since 1862 and this the 1960s was relegated to “a room by the side of the French siege of the 1750s, Fort House was an important had steadily expanded to include public representation Assembly.” In the 1980s, the Council was done away part of the successful defence. Officers and troops oc- of some sort by the early 1900s. A new Council Cham- with and its chamber remains locked up. What is also cupied the lowest floor and the roof was protected by ber was required as were offices for Secretarial use. The forgotten is that the classic rear façade of the entire laying bales of woollen cloth on it. A couple of shells Secretariat acquired a second floor. A more important building is completely hidden from public view by, did land on the terrace but no damage was sustained. change was to the front – for since then it incorporated secretariat block that was built to the same dimensions In the 1780s, with Governors of Madras by then 32 black Charnockite or Gneiss columns behind it. If you enter this art-deco/modernist building happy to live outside the Fort, the building was appro- into its façade. and manage to walk deep into it, you can catch a priated for several other purposes. A minute in 1782 These pillars, as we saw in the account relating to glimpse of the original rear façade of the Secretariat ordered the vacating of all the rooms in the building the Sea Gate, once formed an ornamental colonnade building. It has survived intact. and decreed that the “Assistants in the two Secretaries from the sea to the Fort. The space between had What is also surprising is the sheer survival power of Offices” would henceforth use these. This marks the doubled up as a market place and a processional route. the Fort House that Higginson built. It has overcome beginning of the Secretariat in this building. In April In 1746 the French made away with the pillars and war, vagaries of weather and a recent attempt at shift- the same year, extensive alterations were planned, un- these were returned to Madras in 1762. They were then ing the Secretariat and Assembly to Mount Road and der the supervision of Philip Stowey, Civil Architect. It erected in front of Fort House and the spaces in be- carries on nevertheless. It has within it around 325 began, as it invariably does in most heritage structures tween were walled in to make a hall for official enter- years of history and that is a record to be proud of. even today, with some repairs to the Council Cham- tainments. The construction of Goldingham’s splendid ber. That led to further discoveries of weakness and Banqueting Hall in 1802 at the instructions of Lord – Sriram V.

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