Tobermory

Sound of Mull

Devaig MORVERN

Loch Frisa

ISLE OF MULL 1 Salen Lochaline 2 4

3 Loch na Keal 5 Loch Ba

6 7

8

Loch Scridain

Bunessan

Mull narrows to a slender waist at its Beyond is the Ardmeanach midpoint, where the east and west coasts Peninsula, as rugged a tract of country are just 4km apart. Here is the village of as you will find anywhere. A remarkable Salen, a focal point for road transport on road passes beneath the high cliffs of Mull, making it one of the best bases for Gribun before cutting inland to Loch touring the island. The setting here is Scridain, but the peninsula itself is gentle with an attractive shoreline, but roadless; a wilderness of crags, heather heading south and west the landscape and scree populated by mountain goats. becomes increasingly wild and dramatic, Two walks lead out into this area – a short ultimately rising to the great peak of Ben but rugged excursion to a great sea cave in More, Britain’s highest island summit the north, and the longer, awe-inspiring outwith Skye. route past the Burg in the south. 30 Tomsleibhe Bothy, Glen Forsa Salen, Central Mull and Ardmeanach 1 Glen Aros 32 5 Loch Ba 40 Keep your eyes to the skies on this Encounter deer on this easy stroll short stroll to try to catch sight of the to a wild loch in the heart of the sea eagles which nest nearby mountains

2 Cnoc na Sroine 34 6 Ben More 42 Enjoy the views along the coast Rise to the challenge of Mull’s highest to Aros Castle on this varied circuit mountain and only Munro from Salen 7 Mackinnon’s Cave 44 3 Beinn Talaidh 36 Follow in the footsteps of Boswell Hike up lonely Glen Forsa as a and Johnson to explore the largest prelude to a steep mountain climb sea-cave in the Hebrides and fine views 8 The Burg and the Fossil Tree 46 4 Coast to coast 38 What’s 50 million years old, Cross the island on foot and still 12 metres high and was once be home in time for tea swamped by molten lava?

31 X2 SALEN, CENTRAL MULL AND ARDMEANACH

Cnoc na Sroine Distance 6.25km Time 2 hours 30 Look out for otters in the bay, decorated Terrain track, rough hill paths, boggy in with the hulks of wrecked fishing boats. places Map OS Explorer 374 Access bus to After passing a jetty keep an eye out Salen from Craignure and Tobermory for a gate on the far side of the road (SP Footpath to Glenaros Farm). Go This varied circuit from Salen starts along through the gate and up a grassy lane the coastline before crossing fields to through lovely woodland with views over reach Glenaros House. It climbs up onto the Sound of Mull and the ruins of Aros the moors to visit an iron-age fort with Castle to the north. This was built in the superb all-round views before making a 13th century and served as headquarters boggy descent to return via the woods for the Clan MacDougall, Clan Donald above the village. and Clan Maclean. Salen has been settled since ancient Go through a series of three farm gates times and today boasts a pub, restaurant, before Glenaros House comes into view shop and post office amid a small cluster ahead. As the house draws closer head of houses. There is parking near the through two further gates to pass well to public toilets on the northern side of the the left of the main house, reaching a village off the road to Tobermory. From surfaced track by the old white here the walk begins by heading north farmworkers’ cottage. Cross the track and along the road verge, taking care as this head through the gate opposite, bearing section of single-track road can be busy left across the often muddy field. Soon a if you coincide with the rush to or from rough track emerges; follow this, climbing the ferries. gently with a stone wall on your left until 34 CNOC NA SROINE

Abandoned fishing boats in Salen Bay

post to follow a clear path slightly left of more open moorland is reached. Ford a the sparse birchwood. Eventually this leads small burn and head towards the grassy to another path traversing the hillside. mound topped by a cairn. This is Cnoc na Turn left and climb through the fragments Sroine, once the site of an iron age fort – of woodland at Doire nam Pioghaid; in some of the original stones of the thick places it may be necessary to use sheep outer walls can still be seen. The best way tracks on either side to avoid the boggiest up to the top is to continue on the path, sections. The path improves and heads climbing to the right of the knoll before across open ground with good views of turning left to detour up to the summit. Salen ahead. It leads into the wood at This is a wonderful viewpoint for the Airigh Mhic Dhom nuill, a mix of large Morvern peninsula on the mainland as oaks, birches and other native species. This well as Mull’s eastern coastline. provides a lovely end to the walk as the Return to the main path and continue as path descends steeply through the trees to it climbs to the highest point. Beyond this reach Salen next to the old church. A right the descent is gradual but muddy turn and a short section of road will bring underfoot. Keep left at a wooden marker you back to the start. 35