© Lonely Planet Publications 132 lonelyplanet.com SELENGE 133 History destination is Khövsgöl Nuur, the quickest For thousands of years northern Mongolia was way into the area is either on a flight from Northern Mongolia the borderland between the Turkic-speaking Ulaanbaatar to Mörön or by jeep via Bulgan. tribes of Siberia and the great steppe confede- Main jeep tracks also run from Ulaangom rations of the Huns, Uighurs and Mongols. and Tosontsengel in the west to Mörön, Some of the Siberian tribes still survive in but tracks heading north from Tsetserleg Mongolia, notably the Tsaatan people of in central Mongolia are more difficult to northern Khövsgöl. Evidence of these steppe find. To travel between Selenge aimag and Log cabins, pine forests and monstrous fish do not conform to the classic image of Mongolia’s nomads is also found in Khövsgöl in the form the east, you’ll have to come back through desolate steppes. But strung along its northern border are three aimags (provinces) of such of numerous burial mounds and deer stones. Ulaanbaatar first, or go by horse. lush and serene vegetation that one might confuse them for bits of Switzerland. Selenge, Bul- Settled history really began in the 18th cen- tury under Manchu rule when thousands of Getting Around gan and Khövsgöl aimags actually have more in common with Siberia than Mongolia. Winters monks poured into the area from Tibet and Improvements to the roads to the Russian are long and cold, with snow staying on the ground until May. Summers bring wildflowers China to assist in the construction of mon- border, Erdenet and Bulgan make life a lot and the snowmelt fills up lakes and rivers, many of which flow north to Lake Baikal in Siberia. asteries. As the nomads were converted to easier in terms of getting into the region. The area teems with elk, reindeer and bear, and the rivers and lakes brim with fish. Beautiful Buddhism local shamans were purged and har- The fun starts as you travel further west, with the usual dirt roads and rocky terrain. Khövsgöl Nuur, the major feature of the region, pokes Siberia in the belly. assed into giving up traditional practices. The largest centre of religion, Amarbayasgalant Travellers who enjoy train travel can ride the rails as far as Erdenet and hire a vehicle Although the majority of the people are Khalkh, here are also Buriats and Turkic-speaking Khiid, had more than 2000 lamas. from there. The horse is a popular form of peoples, including the Tsaatan, the reindeer herders. Shamanism has long been the faith of During communism, religious persecution boiled over into a 1932 rebellion that left thou- transport in the mountains. While there is choice in the forests and, after decades of persecution, it is being revived and encouraged. very little organised adventure travel, some sands of monks and Mongolian soldiers dead. NORTHERN MONGOLIA The fighting was particularly bloody in the tour companies offer mountain-biking trips The fragile environment is crucial to the economy and this area is a major battleground north, where monks were reportedly stringing in the region. A few crazies have even pad- between environmentalists and business interests that want to log the forests and explore soldiers up in trees and skinning them alive. dled kayaks down the Selenge Gol (Selenge for minerals. Although ecotourism is making inroads, the concept of sustainable development Later, the Russians improved their stand- River) to Sükhbaatar City! is still relatively unknown. Old hunters lament that wildlife is now more difficult to spot. ing with the locals by developing a variety of industries. Darkhan and Selenge became If travelling by train to or from Russia, you’ll pass through Selenge. Make a diversion and important centres of agriculture, Bulgan be- SELENGE СЭЛЭНГЭ take in the wondrous Amarbayasgalant Khiid or horse trek by the shores of Khövsgöl Nuur. came home to the Erdenet copper mine, and pop 181,500 (incl Darkhan-Uul) / area 42,800 sq km NORTHERN MONGOLIA Khövsgöl developed a thriving industry of These are also attractions for domestic tourists; you may come across a vanload of urban Mongolia’s breadbasket, Selenge is a fertile timber mills, fisheries and wool processing. landscape of rolling wheat fields, apple or- Mongolians off to see the sights, stopping en route to taste the local airag (fermented mare chards and meandering rivers. Wide-scale milk) or pick berries in the forests. Climate agriculture has settled many nomads and In the region around Khövsgöl aimag, the nowadays wood cabins and lumbering trucks HIGHLIGHTS terrain is mainly taiga (subarctic coniferous far outnumber gers and camel caravans. forest) of Siberian larch and pine trees, where The relatively well developed infrastruc- Drop a fishing line into Khövsgöl Nuur there’s plenty of rain (often 600mm a year). ture of paved roads, cities and train lines ( p152 ), and while away an afternoon by Tsagaannuur Snowfall can exceed 2m in some regions dur- means that Selenge sees a steady flow of Khövsgöl Mongolia’s most spectacular alpine lake Nuur ing winter. After winter, the lakes and rivers through traffic, particularly from travel- remain frozen until May; travel can be haz- lers heading to and from Russia. The main Ride a horse into the taiga (coniferous forest) Chandman- around Tsagaannuur in the Darkhad Depres- Öndör ardous at this time as trucks and jeeps can reasons to visit are the majestic but remote Amarbayasgalant fall through the thin ice. Travelling in winter monastery, Amarbayasgalant Khiid, and sion for a unique encounter with the indig- Khiid Dulaankhaan enous Tsaatan reindeer herders ( p160 ) means faster drive times around the aimag some beautiful scenery. as vehicles won’t get bogged in the mud. July Darkhan is the major population centre, Wander around the grounds of spectacular is warm and relatively dry, but this is also although the city is actually part of its own Amarbayasgalant Khiid ( p140 ), the archi- the time of the tourist crunch, leaving ger tiny aimag, Darkhan-Uul. The aimag capital, tectural highlight of the country (traditional circular felt yurt) camps teeming. Sükhbaatar, is comparatively small, but as a Visit the bow-and-arrow-making workshop September, when the leaves change colour, is border town it remains a viable part of the in Dulaankhaan ( p137 ), one of the last of its kind in Mongolia visually spectacular. local economy. Journey to Chandman-Öndör ( p159 ), a little-visited region of fish-filled streams, hot springs, In the southeast, the open-pit coal mine at sacred caves and lush forests Getting There & Away Sharyngol produces about two million tonnes Selenge aimag is accessible by paved road of coal each year to provide electricity for the or rail from Ulaanbaatar. A paved road Erdenet mine in Bulgan aimag. Selenge’s big- POPULATION: 448,600 AREA : 192,800 SQ KM now runs as far as Bulgan City. If your gest revenue earner is the Canadian-owned 134 NORTHERN MONGOLIA lonelyplanet.com lonelyplanet.com NORTHERN MONGOLIA 135 0 100 km NORTHERN MONGOLIA 0 50 miles Ob River Irkutsk A n g a ra R Lake iv e Baikal r Mönkh Ulan Ude Saridag Uul Ikh Sayani Nuruu Gol (3491m) Mondy Shishge Tengis d Gol K h Khankh e Tsagaannuur v e n Darkhad G Depression o l Khuren Khövsgöl Uul (3020m) Nuur Renchinlkhumbe National Park Khövsgöl Nuur RUSSIA l dag Nuruu ur Go Ulaan Uul U Egiin l o G NORTHERN MONGOLIA oridol Sari Gol Uilgan Kh Tsagaan-Uur Dayan Khatgal Chandman- Shamanic Derkhiin Öndör Agui Tepees Dayan Naushki Alan Goa Derkh Kyakhta Monastery Tushig l Altanbulag Go Bayanzürkh Sümber r reen Gol Sükhbaatar a Egiin E g Zelter Gol A Erdenebulgan Tsagaannuur Gol ol Arbulag Zuunburen Shaamar Khövsgöl Teshig Khantain Nuruu ol Dulaankhaan rG a Tunel v Gol Anak Ranch a h e Orkhon Eröö S Tsetserleg Tarialan ng NORTHERN MONGOLIA ele Mörön Eg Tarvagtain S Uushigiin E Belcher l Gelttai Gol T Burentogtokh g o Selenge es Uver i G Gol Tsagaan Uul in Bürengiin Nuruu G Bulgan on o h Tosontsengel Khutag- Khantai l rk O S Ikh Uul Öndör Darkhan h B Selenge a ugant Gol Sangiin Tomorbulag Amarbayasgalant r Gol y Dalai Selenge Khiid Darkhan-Uul n l o Dulann l G Nuur Five Rivers G Gol Khaan Khangal o o G l Zuun Sharyngol ö Sharlan Deer Stones Uul Sant a ö Nuur Baruunbüren a r Khalzan (2059m) r E Rashaant a Sogootyn Uran Uul h Davaa (1631m) Bugat K Telmen Shine-Ider ol Bayan Agt Erdenet Khötöl Nuur r G Ide Uran-Togoo l Tulga Uul o Togoo Bulgan Zong Orkhon Bayangol Gelenkhuugiin i G Nature Züünkharaa Tsetserleg u Telmen Tosontsengel n Uul City Davaa Suvarga Soum a Reserve Galt h (1923m) Orkhontuul Khan Khentii K Dashchoinkhorlon Seeriyn Adigyn Strictly Ikh-Uul Khiid Bugan Khoshoo Protected Jargalant Saikhan l Tunkhel Khairkhan Orkhon l o Area Or Go G l khon l Erdenemandal u Boroo Gol Go u Jargalant gor Go T o l Bornuur gn Choidogiin So Ider Tarvagatai Borgio Khorgo Arkhangai Khutuin Khishig- Batsumber Uul National Uul Öndör Gorkhi- Park Mogod Zagastain Tariat Büreg Ugataaltaidam Terelj Davaa Zaamar Bayanchandmani National Park Terkhiin Öndör Khangai Khandgait Tsagaan Ulaan Mogod Uul Nuur Ölziit Bayantsogt Zavkhan Gol (2139m) Khar Dayan Bukh Tsogt Taijiin Uul Balgas Tsagaan Balgas ULAANBAATAR Terelj Khangai Gichgene Tuul Otgon Ögii Dashinchilen Gol Tenger Gol Shar Nuur Lun Noyon Khangai Battsengel Bayannuur Nalaikh Uul(4021m) National Park Bulagiin Khustain Davaa Tamir Gol l Gurvanbulag National Zuunmod Khanui Ögii Nuur Park Altanbulag Ikh Tamir Shivert Stone Kultegin T Chuluut a Monuments Monument r Khar n Khogno Khan Töv Balgas a Bayankhongor Tsetserleg Tsenkher y Natural Reserve Buyant Gol G Öndörshireet Khashaat o Eej Khad Gurvanbulag l Otgon Khotont (Mother Rock) Bulgan Tsenkheriin Khaluun Erdenesant Us 136 SELENGE •• Sükhbaatar Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels SELENGE •• Altanbulag 137 Boroo gold mine, which produces 5 tonnes of and Moscow (T124,750), but you’ll need a SÜKHBAATAR 0 200 m Station Hotel (x40371; per person T5000) Decent gold per year, netting US$65 million.