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1956 EC56-410 Foundation Garments : Selection, Fitting, Care Helen Rocke

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Rocke, Helen, "EC56-410 Foundation Garments : Selection, Fitting, Care" (1956). Historical Materials from University of Nebraska- Lincoln Extension. 3310. http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/extensionhist/3310

This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Extension at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Historical Materials from University of Nebraska-Lincoln Extension by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. 1956 E.C.56-410 fl~((I s 85 £7 :}}- c;:Jo-110 c. I

selection fitting c a r e

EXTENSION SERVICE UNIVERSITY OF NEBRASKA COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE AND U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE COOPERATING W. V. LAMBERT, DIRECTOR Foundation Garments

by Helen Rocke

Foundation garments are a basic begin to wear a and as her part of every woman's wardrobe. No figure develops, both for the support other garment she wears is so im.­ they offer at the time, and to preveq.t portant to her health, comfort and posture problems in later years. appearance.

Modern garments are styled for A is any gar­ an active life and are designed to be ment that supports or controls a worn for work and . Tasks that woman's figure. Sometimes the require stooping, bending, lifting term is associated only with and reaching also require figure or , but it covers many other support to prevent muscle strain. types of garments as , panty So it is advisable to wear foundation girdles, belts, and ­ garments for everyday a~tivities sieres. and not think of them mainly as "dress up" items.

Rightly fitted foundation garments w_ill improve any woman's propor­ Authorities tell us there is no tions and provide the f1rm smooth need to worry about becoming over lines required to make clothes fit well dependent upon a girdle for figure and look their best. restraint. This happens only to the woman who gets no exercise at all, and that disqualifies any busy home­ maker. Good foundation garments remind her to stand straight and tall and maintain a better posture. Better posture results in better functioning of the body organs, eases strain on Foundation garments are directly .. the back and lessens weariness or related to . Designers of fatigue. outer apparel expect their and to be worn over such gar­ ments. in foundation gar­ ments change with the silhouettes of Foundation garments of today are ready-to-wear but certain relation­ designed to give support, control, ships always exist. For example, restraint, or a combination of the a straight slim requires a more three. Those for the mature woman controlling girdle than does a full must restrain the flesh and act as a skirt, and a fitted requires supplement to muscles losing their more d i a ph rag m control than a tone. Doctors advise that a girl blouse. 4 Selection

FIGURE TYPES

·The foundation garment or com­ Variations in figure types . also bination of garments you will choose influence the choice of a garment. to wear is a matter of figure type, In each of the basic types there are personal preference, your activities figures with variations in body length; and the clothes you will be wearing above and below the waist. with the garments. Body shapes differ. They may be oval or round. The oval figure is Aside from the not yet developed broad from side to side, but narrow teen-age figure there are three basic from back to front. The round figure figure types; junior, average, full. is narrow from side to side, but deep from back to front. A round figure requires a different style bra than Junior - firm flesh, good muscle the oval figure. tone- high, well separated breasts - small waist, hips full in proportion to waist - (age may vary from teen­ Figures are also classilied ac­ ager to older woman whose figure has cording to hip de v e 1 o p men t (ratio retained its junior characteristics). between waist and hip measurement). Figure needs molding, possibly some If the difference between waist and control. hip measurement is less than 8", the figure is classified as a straight hip type. Eight to 1 O" is average. Over Average - flesh not as firm as 1 O" is listed as full hip type. junior. Fully developed bust, firm or tending toward softness. Mature waist with tendency toward "a roll" at waistline - curved hips - need molding and control. May require diaphragm control and uplift in bra. Average figures are in the majority and the largest number of foundation garments are developed for this type.

/ Full - this is the figure with gen­ SUPPORT f-­ erous measurements; ample bustline, \ \ waist more or less undefined and hips \ ' and thighs inclined to weight. The \ --~cONTQOL' si£e may be due to large frame or \ ,, excess flesh. If I The well proportioned figure with large frame requires garments that smooth the figure, give support and uplift.

The large fleshy figure requires more controlling garments to redis­ Parts of the figure which need the tribute the flesh and support abQ.omen support and control given by correctly and bust. fitted foundation garments. 5 TYPES OF GARMENTS

A few general suggestions Panty girdle - knitted elastic with as to types of garments and what leg sections. Gives they w i 11 do for figure needs moderate figure con­ follow: trol. Brassieres Girdle with some boning - front panel of cloth, elas­ - has no band, or only a ticized sides and back very narrow one below panels. Give s firm bust cups. Designed control. for junior figures and gives little underbust Girdle with boning front and back - support. elasticized sections, or double or set in panels Brassiere - with band under bust at sides for extra hip cups, designed for av­ control. Supplies extra erage bustline. Gives firm support and con­ support and uplift. trol.

Long-line- m o 1 d s and controls One piece - for smooth bust, and also con­ over all control. Most trols diaphragm flesh. satisfactory when bust, Gives a trim look to waist, and hip measure­ waistline and area ments of figure are in above waistline. proportion.

Strapless - supports from below Bra-lette - a strapless, hip-length and relieves shoul­ bra with , for ders from strain. figures where hips are First designed for no problem. summer and evening wardrobes, but now Garment with inner belt - double preferred bymany front gives a strong lift. women for all occa­ For figure with large sions. abdomen.

Maternity- designed to give the Corsets- boned and laced for extra nursing mother cor­ firm support, plus a­ rect bust support, and daptability. Front lacing adequate protection suggested if abdomen 1s for all her activities. large in proportion to waist, and the back needs relief from Padded - helps girls or women strain. with small or under­ developed breasts to have a more g:r:aceful, FACTORS AFFECTING COST bette r proportioned figure. The cost of foundation garments is affected by the sizing, construc­ Girdles - Corselets - C orsets tion, bindings, finishing, fabric and fashion. Sometimes high fashion Two-way stretch girdle - garment features such as special fabrics, of knitted elastic with embroidery, lace, special design no openings or bones .... and extra trim add considerably to molds and refines the the cost. It is best to check garments figure and gives gentle carefully in order to receive greatest support. satisfaction for money spent. 6 Fitting

Comfort is the first requisite for These measurements are a guide a girdle, corselet or bra. The trend in choosing the size, but trying it on each year is toward lighter and pret­ is the surest way to find a good fitting tier garments using elastic, cut, and bra,. Garments are made in different seaming to give control rather than styles and those made by different stays or bones and heavy fabrics. manufacturers vary in cut and design.

A garment is not comfortable unless it fits properly so be sure a foundation garment is correctly and comfortably fitted before deciding to buy it. It is said women are more likely to wear ill-fitting brassieres than wrongly fitted girdles because of the tendency to purchase without fitting.

If you are buying the same style you bought last time, or if·you are positive about your size, you can select a bra without being fitted. But figures do change and manufacturers The illustration shows position ar~ constantly bringing out new of the tape in taking measurements. styles. When the services of a fitter Measurements for foundation gar­ are available it is best to take advan­ mentswill be more accurate if taken tage of them. from the side so the position of the tape can '.Je checked. Brassieres are fitted by two measurements, size and cup. Size is stated in even numbers from 2 8 to 54. TESTS FOR A CORRECTLY Cups are designated by letter "A" FITTED BRA for the small, 11 B 11 for average, ·11 C 11 for full, and 11 D 11 for the very full 1. Does the band under the bust fit bust. snugly but not too tightly? Measurement is taken in different 2. Are the cups deep enough and ways. The method most often used is: widely enough spaced so they shape and support the breasts 1. Take a snug measurement a­ without crowding? round the · body just under the bust, and add five inches. If the sum is an 3. Does the band across the back odd number add one. This is your bra fit smoothly and snugly without size. causing a bulge of flesh above or below? 2. Measure the chest above the bre.ast. The difference between this 4. Does the garment allow easy measurement and the first one taken movement and easy breathing? indicates cup size. A difference of: 5. Are the straps comfortable and 1 inch indicates 11 A 11 cup easily adjustable? 2 inches indicates ''B" cup 3 inches indicates "C" cup 6. Does the bra stay in place when More than 3 inches indicates "D" cup. the arms are lifted? HOW TO PUT ON A BRA 7

r J

1. Place straps over the shoul­ 3. After bra is hooked run finger ders. Holding the bra at the under band at back to smooth bottom, lean forward from garment. Adjust shoulder the waist to fit the breasts straps for comfort. Wrong into the cups. adjustment of straps can ruin the fit of an otherwise cor­ rectly fitted bra.

When fitting girdles and corselets always fit the fullest part of the body. Girdles with zipper, or hooks and zipper are sized bf. waist measurement, from 26' to 40''. Some are made to fit figures with different hip development. Lengths also vary to figure types. Be sure to choose a gird 1 e which is lonR l enough so that you can "sit into it comfortably. One of the most 1 common mistakes in buying girdles is to get them too short.

These are the measurements taken in selecting a girdle:

1. Waist- to determine the size. 2. Hip - over fullest part - to 2. Slide hands to back still hold­ determine hip development. ing the fabric. Straighten up 3. Waist to below thick part of and hook at back. thigh - to determine length. 8 HOW TO PUT ON A GIRDLE

A girdle will not fit as it should unless put on in the right way. When putting on a boned girdle, open fas­ tenings, step into it and pull garment slightly above wearing position on the body. Then ease it down over the hip line, fitting it up in front and down in the back. This gives better support and helps to keep the girdle in posi­ tion.

For garments with no openings, turn down so garment is folded in half. Step into the garment and pull it over the thighs; then roll the folded portion up to your waistline. Position of tape for taking measure­ ments for girdles and corselets: Length from underarm to waist is Garters help hold a girdle or taken at the back where arm joins corselet in place, so all garters the body. . should be fastened, They should hang straight when attached to the . HOW TO PUT ON A CORSELET Bend the knees slightly as they are fastened in order to avoid strain on Open all fastenings then step into it. the hose. Pull the garment up over the hips, straighten it on the figure, then ad­ just waist and hip section. TEST FOR CORRECT FIT OF GIRDLE Bend forward so breasts fit com­ fortably into bust cups, then stand 1. Does the garment offer enough tall and adjust shoulder straps. Fas­ support for the abdomen? ten all closings and garters. 2. Is it high enough at the waistline, and long enough over the thighs As with a girdle, check the fitting in to control the flesh without caus­ a sitting position be<;: au s e figure ing a roll? proportions change when you sit down. 3. Are the bones of correct length A garment which seems right as you and placed so they curve with and stand may be most '- uncomfortable not into the body? when you sit or bend. 4. Can you walk, sit, bend comfort- ably.?----- TEST FOR CORRECT FIT OF CORSELET 1. Does the bra section really sup­ When selecting corselets, five port the breasts and not flatten or measurements are taken: pull downward? 2. Is the back flesh controlled so l. Fullest part of the bust - to de­ there is no roll above the gar­ termine size. ment? 2. Waistline - to help determine 3. Does the waistline fit snugly? figure type. 4. Is the skirt long enough to "sit 3. Fullest part of hips. into" comfortably? 4. Length from underarm to waist - 5. Do the bones, if any, curve with determine if you need half size. the body? 5. Waist to thigh. 6. Cari you walk, sit, bend easily ? 9

ALTERATIONS

With the wide variety of garments available it should be possible to find one that fits the figure with few alterations. Extensive alterations may change the garment's design so much that it will fail to serve its purpose.

Possible alterations are:

1. Supporters - position or length may be changed.

2. Shoulder straps may be changed.

3. Bones or stays shortened or lengthened.

4. Darts at waistline or elastic gussets inserted.

5. Darts at underarm if bust and shoulder area is not well developed.

ANALYSIS OF SOME COMMON FITTING PROBLEMS

Problem Solution

Garment rides up. Need felt Choose a garment with larger hip to pull it down. measurement. Length from waist to thigh may be too short. Be sure hose supporters are correctly adjusted. Length of hose is important in prop­ erly anchoring a garment.

Flesh rolls at waistline Try aU-in-one foundation or girdle above girdle. with larger waist measurement. A longer line bra~siere may help.

Flesh bulges above brassiere. Garment is probably too tight and may not be the right style. Built-up shoulder may help. Also an elastic inset, and higher cut back.

Flesh bulges at thigh. Garment is too short. Choose a longer gar m e n t with larger hip measurement.

Boning cuts flesh. Style may be incorrect. Boning may be too long or garment too tight at waistline or hips.

Shoulder straps cut flesh. Longer straps with elastic may help. Straps may be padded. 10 Care

Care of foundation garments be­ Close the zipper or other fasten­ gins with the way they are handled in ing of the garment, soak a few min­ putting them on and in removing them. utes in cool water, then put in a suds A void tugging, straining or gripping of mild soap and warm water. Some them with the fingernails. Sharp nails detergents have a deterioratiflg effect can cut through elastic or fabric and on elastic so it is safer to use soap cause breaks in the garment. for any garments with elastic or elas­ ticized sections. A soft brush or a In hot weather a dusting of bath turkish towel with suds applied to it ortalcumpowderwillhelp in slipping may be used on badly soiled places. on a garment. If a girdle hasa placket, keep the bottom hook closed Rinse thoroughly, roll in a bath if possible while pulling it on to avoid towel to absorb moisture. Remove tearing the end of the placket. from towel, shape the garment and hang away from direct heat and sun­ Take -off techniques also affect light to dry. The shape of garments the serviceability. Roll a knitted is better retained if they are hung girdle or pantie girdle down to the double over a rack or rod rather than fullest part of body, then push it off. suspended by straps or supporters. To avoid warping the bones of boned garments, never remove by turning Manufacturers recommend hand them inside out. Loosen the fasten­ washing, but many women do launder ings, place the hands inside the top lightly boned and elastic garme.nts in at the back, bend forward and push automatic washers. If you choose the girdle down. this method, use the coolest setting on the machine and make sure zippers MENDING and other fastenings of the garment are closed. Putting the foundation Repair kits for foundation gar­ garm ent into a net bag is another ments are available at notion count­ precaution for machine washing. ers. Theymay include replacements for worn straps, elastic, garters and When garments are dry the fabric back straps for bras. sections maybe pressed with a warm iron. Fabrics of acetate, and Make repairs quickly so small Dacron are damaged by a hot iron. holes and tears don't become difficult Lace is ironed on the wrong side and mending problems. Machine mending in the direction of the seams. Shape is durable and quick for many places. the cups of bras by folding lengthwise A machine which makes a zig zag and press toward the center. Never stitch is ideal to mend tears in elas­ iron elastic or elasticized fabric. ticized garments. Most elasticized fabrics have a tendency to discolor after the gar­ ment has been worn and laundered a LAUNDERING number of times. Some become gray, Foundation garments need to be others yellow or pink. Discoloration. laundered often to keep them free of may be due to action of body acids, body oil and perspiration. Both these atmospheric fumes and sometimes to tend to weaken fiber and shorten the improper laundering. Manufacturers life of even the most carefully made are working to find a solution to the garment. problem. ********************************************"* The secret of a good figure is good proportion. A good * ':< figure means head erect, chest high, shoulders flat, abdomen "~ * flat, hips smooth and firm, breasts firm and round, back * straight and spine curved at the waist. ,,,o,, ,,._...

Good fitting foundation garments can help you to attain a * good figure but foundation garments alone will not produce a * new figure. If your posture is poor your figure will not appear * at its best until posture is improved. Essentials for good >.'< * posture that can be practiced as you go about your daily life * are:

Head erect Abdomen flat · * ,,,,o, Chin in Lower back flat * Chest high Legs straight * Shoulders level Feet parallel ,,,,o, Watch your posture, eat wisely, and choose the right foun- * dation for your type if you wish your figure to look its best. * ,,,,o, * ********************************************* MARKS OF A WELL MADE GARMENT

Seams strong, securely stitched and well finished.

Short machine stitches.

Zigzag stitching on elasticized sections.

Bindings of good quality and firmly applied.

Adjustable shoulder straps, made of self material or ribbon which will not roll.

Adjustable closing for bras - at least two rows of fasteners.

Straps securely attached, inserted be­ tween fabric and inner taping, smooth fini~h.

Garters securely attached and rein­ forced where attached.