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EC56-410 Foundation Garments: Selection, Fitting, Care

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EC56-410 Foundation Garments: Selection, Fitting, Care University of Nebraska - Lincoln DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln Historical Materials from University of Nebraska- Extension Lincoln Extension 1956 EC56-410 Foundation Garments : Selection, Fitting, Care Helen Rocke Follow this and additional works at: http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/extensionhist Rocke, Helen, "EC56-410 Foundation Garments : Selection, Fitting, Care" (1956). Historical Materials from University of Nebraska- Lincoln Extension. 3310. http://digitalcommons.unl.edu/extensionhist/3310 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Extension at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Historical Materials from University of Nebraska-Lincoln Extension by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. 1956 E.C.56-410 fl~((I s 85 £7 :}}- c;:Jo-110 c. I selection fitting c a r e EXTENSION SERVICE UNIVERSITY OF NEBRASKA COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE AND U.S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE COOPERATING W. V. LAMBERT, DIRECTOR Foundation Garments by Helen Rocke Foundation garments are a basic begin to wear a girdle and bra as her part of every woman's wardrobe. No figure develops, both for the support other garment she wears is so im.­ they offer at the time, and to preveq.t portant to her health, comfort and posture problems in later years. appearance. Modern garments are styled for A foundation garment is any gar­ an active life and are designed to be ment that supports or controls a worn for work and dress. Tasks that woman's figure. Sometimes the require stooping, bending, lifting term is associated only with corselets and reaching also require figure or corsets, but it covers many other support to prevent muscle strain. types of garments as girdles, panty So it is advisable to wear foundation girdles, garter belts, and bras­ garments for everyday a~tivities sieres. and not think of them mainly as "dress up" items. Rightly fitted foundation garments w_ill improve any woman's propor­ Authorities tell us there is no tions and provide the f1rm smooth need to worry about becoming over lines required to make clothes fit well dependent upon a girdle for figure and look their best. restraint. This happens only to the woman who gets no exercise at all, and that disqualifies any busy home­ maker. Good foundation garments remind her to stand straight and tall and maintain a better posture. Better posture results in better functioning of the body organs, eases strain on Foundation garments are directly .. the back and lessens weariness or related to fashion. Designers of fatigue. outer apparel expect their dresses and suits to be worn over such gar­ ments. Fashions in foundation gar­ ments change with the silhouettes of Foundation garments of today are ready-to-wear but certain relation­ designed to give support, control, ships always exist. For example, restraint, or a combination of the a straight slim skirt requires a more three. Those for the mature woman controlling girdle than does a full must restrain the flesh and act as a skirt, and a fitted bodice requires supplement to muscles losing their more d i a ph rag m control than a tone. Doctors advise that a girl blouse. 4 Selection FIGURE TYPES ·The foundation garment or com­ Variations in figure types . also bination of garments you will choose influence the choice of a garment. to wear is a matter of figure type, In each of the basic types there are personal preference, your activities figures with variations in body length; and the clothes you will be wearing above and below the waist. with the garments. Body shapes differ. They may be oval or round. The oval figure is Aside from the not yet developed broad from side to side, but narrow teen-age figure there are three basic from back to front. The round figure figure types; junior, average, full. is narrow from side to side, but deep from back to front. A round figure requires a different style bra than Junior - firm flesh, good muscle the oval figure. tone- high, well separated breasts - small waist, hips full in proportion to waist - (age may vary from teen­ Figures are also classilied ac­ ager to older woman whose figure has cording to hip de v e 1 o p men t (ratio retained its junior characteristics). between waist and hip measurement). Figure needs molding, possibly some If the difference between waist and control. hip measurement is less than 8", the figure is classified as a straight hip type. Eight to 1 O" is average. Over Average - flesh not as firm as 1 O" is listed as full hip type. junior. Fully developed bust, firm or tending toward softness. Mature waist with tendency toward "a roll" at waistline - curved hips - need molding and control. May require diaphragm control and uplift in bra. Average figures are in the majority and the largest number of foundation garments are developed for this type. / Full - this is the figure with gen­ SUPPORT f-­ erous measurements; ample bustline, \ \ waist more or less undefined and hips \ ' and thighs inclined to weight. The \ --~cONTQOL' si£e may be due to large frame or \ ,, excess flesh. If I The well proportioned figure with large frame requires garments that smooth the figure, give support and uplift. The large fleshy figure requires more controlling garments to redis­ Parts of the figure which need the tribute the flesh and support abQ.omen support and control given by correctly and bust. fitted foundation garments. 5 TYPES OF GARMENTS A few general suggestions Panty girdle - knitted elastic with as to types of garments and what leg sections. Gives they w i 11 do for figure needs moderate figure con­ follow: trol. Brassieres Girdle with some boning - front panel of cloth, elas­ Bandeau - has no band, or only a ticized sides and back very narrow one below panels. Give s firm bust cups. Designed control. for junior figures and gives little underbust Girdle with boning front and back - support. elasticized sections, or double or set in panels Brassiere - with band under bust at sides for extra hip cups, designed for av­ control. Supplies extra erage bustline. Gives firm support and con­ support and uplift. trol. Long-line- m o 1 d s and controls One piece corselet - for smooth bust, and also con­ over all control. Most trols diaphragm flesh. satisfactory when bust, Gives a trim look to waist, and hip measure­ waistline and area ments of figure are in above waistline. proportion. Strapless - supports from below Bra-lette - a strapless, hip-length and relieves shoul­ bra with garters, for ders from strain. figures where hips are First designed for no problem. summer and evening wardrobes, but now Garment with inner belt - double preferred bymany front gives a strong lift. women for all occa­ For figure with large sions. abdomen. Maternity- designed to give the Corsets- boned and laced for extra nursing mother cor­ firm support, plus a­ rect bust support, and daptability. Front lacing adequate protection suggested if abdomen 1s for all her activities. large in proportion to waist, and the back needs relief from Padded - helps girls or women strain. with small or under­ developed breasts to have a more g:r:aceful, FACTORS AFFECTING COST bette r proportioned figure. The cost of foundation garments is affected by the sizing, construc­ Girdles - Corselets - C orsets tion, bindings, finishing, fabric and fashion. Sometimes high fashion Two-way stretch girdle - garment features such as special fabrics, of knitted elastic with embroidery, lace, special design no openings or bones .... and extra trim add considerably to molds and refines the the cost. It is best to check garments figure and gives gentle carefully in order to receive greatest support. satisfaction for money spent. 6 Fitting Comfort is the first requisite for These measurements are a guide a girdle, corselet or bra. The trend in choosing the size, but trying it on each year is toward lighter and pret­ is the surest way to find a good fitting tier garments using elastic, cut, and bra,. Garments are made in different seaming to give control rather than styles and those made by different stays or bones and heavy fabrics. manufacturers vary in cut and design. A garment is not comfortable unless it fits properly so be sure a foundation garment is correctly and comfortably fitted before deciding to buy it. It is said women are more likely to wear ill-fitting brassieres than wrongly fitted girdles because of the tendency to purchase without fitting. If you are buying the same style you bought last time, or if·you are positive about your size, you can select a bra without being fitted. But figures do change and manufacturers The illustration shows position ar~ constantly bringing out new of the tape in taking measurements. styles. When the services of a fitter Measurements for foundation gar­ are available it is best to take advan­ mentswill be more accurate if taken tage of them. from the side so the position of the tape can '.Je checked. Brassieres are fitted by two measurements, size and cup. Size is stated in even numbers from 2 8 to 54. TESTS FOR A CORRECTLY Cups are designated by letter "A" FITTED BRA for the small, 11 B 11 for average, ·11 C 11 for full, and 11 D 11 for the very full 1. Does the band under the bust fit bust. snugly but not too tightly? Measurement is taken in different 2. Are the cups deep enough and ways. The method most often used is: widely enough spaced so they shape and support the breasts 1. Take a snug measurement a­ without crowding? round the · body just under the bust, and add five inches.
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