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FEBRUARY 2014 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO® istanbul ® ISSN: 1309-3851 ISSN: paneraı: deep ART OF tıME VALENTINE’S DAY TIPS BRAND-NEW NIGHTLIFE ONGOING sales +... and MUCH More Istanbul February 2014 the guide 10 SIGHTSEEING & MUSEUMS Major sightseeing attractions plus museums and events. 16 GALLERIES National and commercial art galleries. 20 ENTERTAINMENT & NIGHTLIFE The latest information on İstanbul’s concerts and clubs. 30 SHOPPING Major shopping areas and our choice of the best speciality stores 50 DINING Listings by neighbourhood and cuisine 60 ESSENTIALS Transport and useful information. Tips for getting around town. Contents 4 HOT DATES 16 PICASSO IN PERA ON THE COVER İstanbul hosts several major events this Artworks and personal effects of the great painter Panerai presents an exquisite month! Experience the magic of Cats, enjoy an at the Pera Museum. new İstanbul collection. unforgettable performance by Swedish jazz STAY IN TOUCH vocalist Viktoria Tolstoy, or thrill to the exciting 20 THE ORIGINAL CUBAN CIRCUS Follow us on twitter movies at the 9th Mountain Film Festival. Don't miss this outstanding circus featuring @where-istanbul 18 singers and 7 special acts, at TİM Show Center. Like us on facebook.com/ 8 LEBANESE CUISINE whereistanbulmagazine Chef Ramazan Değirmenci invites you to enjoy 72 MY PERFECT DAY Where is the largest global a romantic Valentine's Day dinner at Al Bushra Gali Collection designer Gülnur Ayaz shares publisher of visitor magazines, available in the finest hotels and Restaurant. her favourite spots in the city. operating in 76 cities worldwide. FEBRUARY 2014 I WHERE İSTANBUL 1 Your traveling companion since 1936® ® WELCOME Editor's Letter wheremagazine WHERE MAGAZINE İSTANBUL EDITORIAL Happy Valentine's Day! EDITOR Dilek Koç There’s a lot to do in İstanbul this month! Music lovers can choose among top MANAGING DIRECTOR Gürkan Kınacı CONTRIBUTING editor Emma Levine performers such as opera singer Andrea Bocelli and passionate flamenco singer ENGLISH edıtorıal dırector Bob Beer Concho Buika, as well as classical ensembles the Polish Chamber Orchestra and DESIGNERS Tijen Tezel, Yasemin Şahin Borusan Philharmonic orchestra. The children are sure to have a wonderful time at contrıbutors Ardan Zentürk, Özden Akbal DEPUTY edıtor Özlem Aykın Kınacı a performance of Snow White And The Seven Dwarves, and the Cuban Circus (p. 20). oaykin@ whereistanbul.com.tr This month’s line up of art exhibitions will keep even the most ardent art fan busy. Photo edıtor Sami Atalan consultant Aynur Koç Salt Galata hosts a collection of calligraphy, music and photographs from the Ottoman RESPONSIBLE edıtor Aslı Koç and Republican periods, while Gallery Selvin’s exhibition of paintings illustrating 2,000 ADVERTISING & BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT years of İstanbul’s culture will help you grasp something of the city’s history and art. SALES DIRECTOR Selen Uzeroğlu Kaya [email protected] This month’s issue of Where Istanbul also includes an interview with the chef at busıness develoPment & marKetıng Hilton İstanbul’s popular restaurant Al Bushra (p. 8); Korhan Başaran of Akbank Sanat – MARKeting DIREctor Mahmut Bölükbaş host of the show İkilişkiler (p. 22)– about dance and chorography; and an inside look at [email protected] Evren Satır [email protected] the impressive new nightclub, Masquerade Club (p. 24). Productıon Valentine’s Day is coming, and İstanbul offers you no end of choices. After a fantastic Productıon manager Aybüke Kevser day in the city, celebrate the occasion with a romantic dinner at a top restaurant – assıstant Selda Ceylan Toprak controller Yıldırım Uğurgelen we offer you endless tempting venues. If you have time, check out the sales at stores around town, take in the bohemian atmosphere of Beyoğlu and Karaköy and, of course, set aside a good portion of a day for İstanbul’s wonderful Grand Bazaar (p. 32). WHERE (C), CEE & TURKEY DIVISION United Guides Hungary Wishing you a month of love, MANAGING DIRECTOR András Wiszkidenszky REGIONAL manager Bianca Otero DİLEK KOÇ Editor, Where İstanbul Managing Director EuroPE MORRIS Visitor PublicationS Chris Manning MORRIS COMMUNICATIONS CHAIRMAN & CEO William S. Morris III PRESIDENT William S. Morris IV PUBLISHER DSTİL TASARIM İLETİŞİM TİCARET LTD. ŞTİ. Teşvikiye, Deryadil Sok. Şeren Apt. 104/10, Şişli 34365, İstanbul Tel: 0212 296 0039 Fax: 0212 225 0552 Prınted BY TURKuvaz matbaacılıK YAYINCILIK A.Ş. Akpınar Mah. Hasan Basri Cad. No.4 Sancaktepe, İstanbul Tel: 0216 5859000 Fax: 0216 585 9130 Issue No.50 ISSN: 1309-3851 Publication type: Monthly periodical Plan ahead for your next visit to İstanbul, subscribe to where istanbul: 12 issues for overseas subcriptions $50. Contact: [email protected] Facebook: Where İstanbul Magazine Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held responsible for any consequences arising from errors or omissions. All rights reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part strictly prohibited. Where is a registered trademark of Morris Visitor Publications. CONCIERGE ADVISORY BOARD Union Internationale des Concierges d’Hotel “Les Clefs d’Or” is an International Association of Concierges. Registered at 12, Rue Cambon, 75001 Paris, France. Members are as follows Ali Öner - Ceylan Intercontinental Hotel Cengiz Görkem - Çırağan Palace Kempinski İstanbul Halil Tınaztepe - Four Seasons Bosphorus Yiğit Emen - Hilton İstanbul Koray Tüfekçi - Park Hyatt İstanbul Maçka Palas Cenk Caner - The Ritz - Carlton, İstanbul Sedat Tuncay - Sheraton Hotel Ankara Adnan Öner (President) - Swissôtel The Bosphorus Alpaslan Yıldız - The Grand Tarabya Oğuz Uzun - Divan İstanbul Fetih Güçlüer - Shangri La Bosphorus, İstanbul Endorsed by the Society of the Golden Keys of Turkey 2 WHERE İstaNBUL I FEBRUARY 2014 FEBRUARY 2014www.wheretraveler.com I İstaNBUL WHERE 53 WHERE NOW | CALENDAR FEBRUARY Watch Andrew Lloyd Weber’s world-famous 1 musical, Cats. Zorlu Center PSM (p. 23) Last day to see Anish Kapoor’s sculptures 2 at the Sakıp Sabancı Museum (p. 19) Enjoy amazing 360º view of the city from HOT DATES 3 the top of the historic Galata Tower (p. 11) Taste tender kebabs and enjoy Golden Horn 4 view at Ali Ocakbaşı in Karaköy (p. 62) Seljuk and Ottoman themed jewellery, and WEDNESDAY SATURDAY 5 home accessories at Armaggan (p. 44) Enjoy flamenco music by Spanish singer 6 Estrella Morente at İş Sanat (p. 23) See the special Valentine’s Day designs at 7 the Jewellery Shopping Festival (p. 19) Celebrate Bob Marley’s birthday with 1 8 Sattas and famous DJs at Babylon (p. 22) CATS Get your tickets for The Original Cuban Based on T.S. Eliot’s Old Possum’s Book of 9 Circus at TİM Show Center (p. 13) Practical Cats, Andrew Lloyd Webber’s Cats Enjoy soothing voice of Swedish jazz broke records to become the second longest- 10 vocalist Viktoria Tolstoy at CRR (p. 21) running musical in Broadway history. See the See Joshua Garrick’s photographs at the world through the eyes of cats with now- 11 Sismanoglio Megaro (p. 19) immortal songs and magical choreographies at Enter the Süleymaniye Mosque, Zorlu Center (1-9 Feb) in this charming show first 12 a masterpiece by architect Sinan (p. 15) performed in London in 1981 (p. 23). Hear great pieces of French music by 13 Soli Tutti at Borusan Music House (p. 22) Check out traditional designs on rugs and 14 textiles from Anatolia at Nakkaş (p. 36) MONDAY Witness the Conquest of Constantinople 15 at the Panoramic 1453 Museum (p. 12) Turkish rock music at Emre Aydın’s 16 concert at Bostancı Show Center (p. 22) Sample the tastes of Asia in a modern 17 atmosphere at P.F. Chang’s (p. 52) 10 Enjoy a concert of Württemberg VIKTORIA TOLSTOY 18 Orchestra at the İş Sanat (p. 21) Don’t miss a concert by Sweden’s Engravings and ceramics by Picasso at famous jazz vocalist Viktoria 19 Pera Museum (p. 16) Tolstoy tonight at Cemal Reşit Rey Strauss and Prokofiev with the Borusan Auditorium. Beloved for her clean, 20 İstanbul Philharmonic Orchestra, at Lütfi pure voice, Tolstoy sings jazz pieces Kırdar (p. 21) plus brand new interpretations on Ride the historical tram to enjoy songs by musical greats such Peter 21 Beyoğlu’s historic architecture C5 Gabriel and Stevie Wonder (p. 21). Shop ‘til you drop and take advantage of the discounts on 200 international labels 22 at Zorlu Center (p. 34) THURSDAY Delicious brunch by the Italian chefs at Aqua restaurant in the Four Seasons 23 Bosphorus (p. 60) Take exciting ride over the treetops on 24 the Maçka-Taşkışla teleferique B6 Spoil yourself a little with La Misura’s 25 personally designed stylish shirts and 27 suits (p. 38) 9th MOUNTAIN After touring Topkapı Palace, Hagia Sophia FILM FESTIVAL 26 and the Blue Mosque, taste authentic Ottoman cuisine at Matbah (p. 62) Anyone with a passion for nature, exploration and adventure will want to head to the 9th From dried medicinal herb medicines to 27 spices from around the world plant seeds, Mountain Film Festival (25 Feb-2 Mar). Free of explore the Spice Market (p. 32) charge and organised by the Mountain Culture Take a trip back in time at Dolmabahçe Association, the festival presents nearly 50 films 28 Palace, a 19th-century Baroque that will get your adrenaline pumping – and masterpiece (p. 11) don’t worry, you don’t need your boots (p. 19). 4 WHERE İstANBUL I FEBRUARY 2014 WHERE NOW | İSTANBUL iN 2014 A SPECIAL WATCH LINE FOR İSTANBUL Panerai also offers a special limited-edition İstanbul watch featuring a relief design of Hagia Sophia, a landmark building for both the Byzantine and Ottoman empires. A priceless architectural work of its period, Hagia Sophia now provides the crowning touch to two incomparable Panerai watches. OFFICINE PANERAI Blending masterful Italian design and Swiss expertise, the brand has 55 boutiques around the world; its İstanbul store is off Abdi İpekçi Avenue in the fashionable Nişantaşı neighbourhood.