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© Lonely Planet Publications 484 www.lonelyplanet.com NUSA TENGGARA •• History 485 HISTORY CLIMATE The region of Nusa Tenggara has always On the islands east of Bali, seasonal dif- N u s a T e n g g a r a been, and remains, remote. Before the 15th ferences are more pronounced. The driest century, virtually the only external con- months are August and September, and tact these islands had were sporadic visits the wettest months are between Novem- from Chinese and Arab traders in search ber and February. However, the duration of sandalwood, spices and tortoiseshell. In of the seasons varies from island to island. 1512 the Portuguese first landed in (and The seasons in Lombok are more like those Indonesia’s dazzling arc of eastern islands that stretches towards northern Australia is perhaps named) Flores; they also named Timor and in Bali, with a dry season from April to the most varied and rewarding part of the nation to explore. There are few regions of the world Solor and brought Christianity to all three September and a wet season from October that can compete with Nusa Tenggara for sheer diversity – east of Hindu Bali are the largely islands soon after their arrival. to March. Much the same applies to both Islamic islands of Lombok and Sumbawa, followed by predominantly Catholic Flores with its The Dutch began to muscle in on the Sumbawa and Flores. The duration of the region in the 17th century, taking control dry season increases the closer you get to Portuguese heritage, while Timor and the Alor and Solor Archipelagos have Protestant major- of Kupang in 1653 and later shunting the Australia – the rusty landscapes of Sumba ities. On all of these islands, animist rituals and tribal traditions continue alongside the minarets, Portuguese off to East Timor. But, with few and Timor contrast strongly with well- temples and chapels, particularly in rural areas. Though Bahasa Indonesia is a unifying tongue, resources to tempt them, they devoted lit- vegetated Flores. See also the climate chart each main island has at least one native language, which is often subdivided into dialects. tle attention to Nusa Tenggara, only really for Kupang, p848 . establishing firm control over the area in At almost 10°S latitude, Timor is also the The spectacular terrain is almost as diverse: the fecund volcanic slopes and shimmering the 20th century by forming alliances with only island in Indonesia that is far enough rice paddies of western Lombok contrast sharply with the arid hillsides of Komodo and tribal rajahs. from the equator to experience typhoons Little changed after WWII, the vast ma- (cyclones), but these are rare. Nearby Sumba, which turn dusty brown at the end of the long dry season. jority of people continuing to make a liv- northern Australia is not so lucky. If you’ve a thirst for adventure or nature, or if you surf, snorkel, hike or dive, the opportu- ing from fishing or subsistence farming. Periodic droughts could be devastating: GETTING THERE & AROUND nities in Nusa Tenggara are almost limitless. Of the dozens of volcanoes, the sublime cone of famine killed an estimated 50,000 in Lom- Overland travel is very arduous in many Kelimutu – its summit crowned by three crater lakes of different hues – has to be the region’s bok in 1966, provoking the government to parts of mountainous Nusa Tenggara, par- prime draw, though Lombok’s towering Rinjani is a much more challenging ascent. implement a transmigrasi programme that ticularly in Flores. Lombok, Sumbawa and moved thousands of families from the is- Timor have fairly decent surfaced main The cities and towns in this region are generally not places to linger long – with little in land to other parts of the nation. roads and some comfortable bus services. the way of cultural appeal and an excess of fumes, heat, noise and urban grime – though Today there remains very little industry Get off the highways and things slow down they are rarely threatening or dangerous; personal safety is not normally a great concern. in the region (apart from a colossal mine considerably, however. Ferry services have in Sumbawa), and many Nusa Tenggarans actually worsened in recent years, partly are forced to move to Java, Bali or Malaysia due to the downturn in tourism (and sev- in search of work. It’s also quite common eral sinkings). Fortunately, several airlines HIGHLIGHTS for women to work as maids in the Gulf now cover the main inter-island routes, as NUSA TENGGARA Gazing at the lunarlike landscape atop Gunung Kelimutu ( p561 ), with its three astonishing states, Singapore and Hong Kong. The po- few travellers who have endured the pun- crater lakes, each a different colour tential for tourism remains vast, but, due ishing long haul across Nusa Tenggara by to political instability, poor infrastructure surface transport are willing to repeat the Trekking up the lush slopes of Gunung Rinjani (p519 ), the sacred volcano that dominates and transport links, and low educational experience. northern Lombok standards, Nusa Tenggara looks unlikely Coming face-to-face with the mother of all lizards in Komodo (p541 ) or Rinca ( p543 ) to profit much from this sector for some Air NUSA TENGGARA Exploring the villages of Sumba ( p590 ), time yet. There are twice-weekly flights between Darwin in Australia and Kupang, jointly characterised by their extraordinary rocket- Komodo & Rinca Islands roofed clan houses, and marvelling at the Gili WILDLIFE operated by Air North and Merpati (Mer- Islands island’s unique tribal culture, tombs and Labuanbajo The region’s real trump card is the Komodo pati Nusantara Airlines). Mataram has the textiles Gunung dragon (see p542 ), the world’s largest lizard, only other international airport in Nusa Rinjani Gunung which can easily be spotted on the islands Tenggara, with twice-weekly connections Snorkelling or diving in coral reefs teeming Kelimutu Sumba of Komodo and Rinca. Small numbers also to Singapore on Silk Air and daily connec- with marine life around the Gili Islands exist in western Flores. tions to Kuala Lumpur (KL) on Merpati. ( p511 ), Labuanbajo (p546) and Komodo The coral reefs of Nusa Tenggara are Most visitors use Bali as the international National Park ( p546 ) some of the richest in the world, and there’s gateway to Nusa Tenggara, as there are so an incredible array of marine life, from tiny many more connections available. reef dwellers such as nudibranchs, sea snails Several airlines operate within Nusa POPULATION: 8.2 MILLION LAND AREA: 68,053 SQ KM HIGHEST PEAK: GUNUNG and pipe fish to pelagic giants: manta and Tenggara, but the main two are Merpati RINJANI (3726M) devil rays, pilot whales, and dolphins. and Transnusa (which mainly operates 486 NUSA TENGGARA •• Getting There & Around www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com NUSA TENGGARA •• Getting There & Around 487 0 100 km NUSA TENGGARA 0 60 miles Pulau Pulau Gunung WEST NUSA Pulau Kokar Pulau Alor MALUKU Moyo Sangeang F L O R E S S E A Adonara Balauring Gili Rinjani TENGGARA Gunung Taramana Islands (3726m) Pota Larantuka Sirung Kalabahi Sumbawa Sagu Selat Wetar Reo (1372m) Baranusa B A L I Besar Bima Komodo Lewoleba Mataram Labuhan Teluk Dompu Riung Baucau S E A Lombok Saleh Labuanbajo DILI Alas Maumere Pulau Pulau Los Poto Sape Moni Pulau Pantar Maubara Palos Selat Tano Ruteng Solor Lembata Lembar Praya Alas Selat Taliwang Hu'u Sape Bajawa Gunung Rinca Ende EAST NUSA Batugede Lombok Flores Kelimutu TENGGARA Sumbawa (1640m) EAST TIMOR Atapupu EAST TIMOR Selat Sumba (OECUSSI ENCLAVE) Atambua Same Pantemakassar (Oecussi Town) Waitabula Tambulaka Kefamenanu Timor S A W U Waingapu Bondokodi S E A Waikabubak Soe Melolo Sumba Kupang T I M O R S E A I N D I A N O C E A N Pulau WEST TIMOR Baing Semau Pulau Sabu Pulau Ba'a Pulau Raijua Rote between the eastern islands). Other air- and traffic can be quite heavy) and across tions of individual town entries for more comfortable way to cross the island by land lines, including Adam Air, GT Air, Lion the undulating terrain of Sumba and west- details. unless you have all the time in the world Air, Batavia Air and Wings Air, concentrate ern Sumbawa. Cycling on volcanic Flores A popular way of travelling between and the patience of a saint. on the main routes to/from Mataram and or mountainous Timor requires Tour de Lombok and Flores or vice versa is on a Most buses leave in the morning be- Kupang. France levels of endurance, though some boat tour, stopping at Komodo and other tween 6am and 8am, so be prepared for With Merpati, the delays or cancellations riders do travel across both islands using islands along the way. See p516 for more early starts. Where buses leave later in the remain an inconvenience; however, it re- buses to get their bikes up the steepest in- information. day, they are less patronised, so they often mains the best-connected airline in Nusa clines and freewheeling downhill. spend longer looking for passengers. There Tenggara. Transnusa is generally more reli- Bus are also night buses between Mataram and able and punctual, but flight cancellations Boat Travelling by bus is generally uncom- Bima. Long-distance buses usually meet the are common on all routes in Nusa Teng- Pelni’s Awu, Dobonsolo, Dorolonda, Ke- fortable, hot and slow in Nusa Tenggara main ferries for those planning to travel gara, particularly on the less popular (and limutu, Sirimau, Tatamailau, Pangrango despite most main roads being sealed. straight through to other destinations. less profitable) ones. and Tilongkabila ferries all service Nusa However, some of the main cross-island Buying bus tickets for the right price Nusa Tenggara is not well connected to Tenggara.

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