NUSA TENGGARA they are rarely threatening ordangerous;personalsafety isnotnormallyagreat concern. the wayofculturalappealandan excessoffumes,heat,noiseandurbangrime–though isamuchmoreprime draw,thoughLombok’stoweringRinjani challenging ascent. –itssummitcrownedbythreeKelimutu crater ofdifferent lakes hues–hastobetheregion’s nities inNusaTenggara are almostlimitless. thedozens Of ofvolcanoes,thesublimecone , whichturndustybrownattheendoflongdryseason. rice paddiesofwestern LombokcontrastsharplywiththearidhillsidesofKomodoand each mainislandhasatleastonenative language,whichisoften subdividedintodialects. inruralareas.temples andchapels,particularly Indonesiaisaunifyingtongue, Though Bahasa ities. Onalloftheseislands,animist rituals andtribaltraditionscontinuealongsidetheminarets, heritage,whileTimorPortuguese andtheAlorSolorArchipelagoshave Protestant major- Islamic islandsofLombokandSumbawa,followedbypredominantly Catholic withits that cancompete withNusaTenggara forsheerdiversity Baliare –eastofHindu thelargely a ofthenationtoexplore.the mostvariedandrewarding part There are few regions oftheworld r a ’s dazzlingarcofeastern Australia islandsthatstretches is perhaps towardsnorthern g g n e T a s u N 484 © LonelyPlanetPublications „ The citiesandtownsinthisregion are generallynotplacestolingerlong–withlittlein If you’ve athirstforadventure ordive, hike snorkel, theopportu- ornature, orifyousurf, The terrain spectacular isalmostasdiverse: thefecund volcanic slopesandshimmering

„ „ „ „ „

HIGHLIGHTS POPULATION: 8.2 MILLION Snorkelling ordiving incoralreefs Snorkelling teeming Exploring the villages of withthemotherofall Coming face-to-face lizards in upthelushslopesof Trekking landscapeatop Gazing atthelunarlike with marinelife around the northern National Park (p546) Labuanbajo(p546)and ( p511), textiles island’s uniquetribal culture, tombsand roofed at the clanhouses,and marvelling rocket-characterised bytheirextraordinary crater eachadifferent lakes, colour Sumba Gili Islands „ Gunung Rinjani( p519 ), thesacred volcanothatdominates LANDAREA: 68,053 SQKM ( p590), Gunung

Islands Gili Gunung Rinjani Komodo ( p541 ) or ( p561 ), withits three astonishing Rinca Islands Komodo & „ HIGHEST PEAK: HIGHESTPEAK: RINJANI (3726M) Labuanbajo Sumba Rinca Kelimutu Gunung ( p543) GUNUNG time yet. to profit forsome much from thissector Tenggara Nusa standards, looksunlikely and transportlinks,loweducational poorinfrastructureto politicalinstability, tential fortourismremains vast,but,due states, andHongKong.The po- for womentoworkasmaidsin the Gulf ofin search work.It’salsoquite common are forcedtomove toJava, orMalaysia Tenggaransin ),andmanyNusa in theregion mine (apartfromacolossal land tootherpartsof thenation. moved of thousands familiesfromtheis- implement a bok in1966,provoking thegovernment to famine killedanestimated 50,000inLom- Periodic couldbedevastating: droughts ing fromfishingorsubsistence farming. jority of peoplecontinuingtomake aliv- tribal rajahs. the 20thcenturybyformingallianceswith firmcontroloverestablishing thearea in tle attentionTenggara, toNusa onlyreally resources totempt lit- them,theydevoted . offtoEast Portuguese But,withfew of Kupangin1653andlater shuntingthe region control in the17thcentury,taking islands soonafter theirarrival. ChristianitytoallthreeSolor andbrought named) Flores; theyalsonamedTimor and first1512 thePortuguese landedin(and of sandal In wood, spicesandtortoiseshell. andArab traders from Chinese insearch islandshadwere these tact sporadicvisits century, virtuallytheonlyexternal con- andremains,been, remote. the15th Before The region of Tenggara Nusa hasalways HISTORY www.lonelyplanet.com devil rays, pilot whales, anddolphins. devil and and pipe fish to pelagic giants: manta reef dwellers such asnudibranchs, snails sea an incredible arrayof marine life, from tiny some of therichest intheworld, andthere’s exist inwestern Flores. of KomodoandRinca. Smallnumbers also which caneasilybespotted ontheislands dragon (see p542 ), theworld’s largest lizard, The region’s real trumpcardis theKomodo WILDLIFE Today there remains very littleindustry Little changed after WWII,thevastma- The Dutch begantomuscleinonthe The coralreefs of Tenggara Nusa are transmigrasi programmethat and Transnusa (whichand Transnusa mainly operates Tenggara, butthe maintwo are Merpati many more connections available. gateway Tenggara, toNusa as there are so astheinternational Most visitors Bali use tions toKualaLumpur (KL)onMerpati. to Singapore onSilkAir anddailyconnec- Tenggara, connections withtwice-weekly only otherinternational airportinNusa Airlines). hasthe pati Nusantara operated byAirNorth andMerpati (Mer- Darwin inAustraliaandKupang, jointly There are between flights twice-weekly Air experience. surface transportare willingtorepeat the Tenggaraishing longhaulacrossNusa by few travellers whohave endured thepun- now cover themaininter-island routes, as airlines eral sinkings).Fortunately, several due tothedownturnintourism (and sev- actually worsenedinrecent years, partly considerably, however. have Ferry services andthings slowdown offthehighways Get busservices. roads andsomecomfortable Timor have fairlydecentsurfacedmain ticularly inFlores. Lombok,Sumbawaand Tenggara,parts of Nusa mountainous par- travelOverland isvery arduousinmany THERE&AROUND GETTING northern Australiaisnotsolucky. are(cyclones), butthese rare. Nearby from theequatortoexperiencetyphoons only islandinIndonesiathatisfarenough for , p848 . vegetated alsotheclimate chart Flores. See and Timor contraststronglywithwell- Australia –therustylandscapesof Sumba increases youget thecloser to dry season Sumbawa andFlores. Thedurationof the to March. Muchappliestoboth thesame fromOctober andawetseason September fromAprilto withadryseason in Bali, inLombokareThe seasons more like those variesfromislandtoisland. of theseasons ber andFebruary. theduration However, the wettest months are Novem- between months are and AugustandSeptember, ferences are more pronounced.Thedriest dif- On theislandseastof seasonal Bali, CLIMATE Several airlinesoperate withinNusaSeveral At almost10°Slatitude,Timor isalsothe NUSA TENGGARA••History

485 NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA are available. ‘no-shows’, which means last-minute seats airport before departure, as there are often is‘full’, itisworthgoingtothea flight buying theticket, andalwaysreconfirm. If make sure yourbookingisconfirmedwhen often Overbooking Denpasar). occurs, so andFloresBali (particularlyMaumere– son. Themostpopularroutes are to/from are inthepeakAugusttouristsea- essential and . toget viaBali toSulawesi, other partsof Indonesia,andyou’llhave to less profitable) ones. gara, particularlyonthelesspopular (and are commononallroutesTeng- inNusa cancellations able andpunctual,butflight Tenggara. isgenerally Transnusa more reli- mains thebest-connected airlineinNusa remain aninconvenience; itre- however, Kupang. on themainroutes to/fromMataram and AirandWingsAir,concentrateAir, Batavia lines, includingAdamAir,GTLion theeasternbetween islands).Otherair- 486 on Lombok (though the roads areon Lombok (though narrow gara. Long-distance cycling isanoption of anywhere Teng- inNusa else Gili Islands, buttheyare nota popular form Many peoplehire bicycles toget around the Bicycle B ALI S EA NUSA TENGGARA It’s wise to book early, and reservations tobookearly,andreservations It’s wise TenggaraNusa is notwellconnected to With Merpati, thedelaysorcancellations Islands NUSA TENGGARA •• Getting There &Around NUSA TENGGARA••Getting Lembar Gili Mataram Lombok Praya Gunung (3726m) Rinjani Labuhan Lombok Selat Alas Tano Taliwang Poto I NDAOCE Alas Sumbawa Besar Pulau Moyo Sumbawa Teluk Saleh WEST NUSA Hu'u TENGGARA Dompu Bondokodi of other possibilities; see therelevantof sec- otherpossibilities; see and Kupang withRote. There are plenty andKalabahi;tuka (Flores) withLembata (Flores) with Waingapu(Sumba); Laran- Kalabahi (Alor).Boatsalso connectEnde (Flores) and Kupangandand bothKupang between services weekly notstopatKomodo.does bawa andFlores there’s a daily ferry, butit Sum- and Lombok Sumbawa. Between andLombok, regular Bali between sailings connect manyof theislands.There are very negotiate torent acabin. Conditions are primitive, butyoucanoften (harbour master) orattheshippingoffices. stuck. Ask attheoffice of thesyahbandar many routes andare anoptionifyouget ni’s more basicPerintis cargo shipscover individual townentriesinthischapter. Pel- Tenggara. Schedules are provided under and limutu, clines andfreewheeling downhill. togetbuses theirbikes upthesteepestin- riders dotravel across bothislandsusing ofFrance levels some endurance, though Timoror mountainous requires Tourde ern Sumbawa. CyclingonvolcanicFlores the undulatingterrain of Sumbaandwest- canbequite heavy)and traffic andacross Pelni’s Boat Selat Sumba Other ferry connectionsincludetwice- Somewhat dilapidated, slowferries also Waitabula Tilongkabila Sape Selat Sangeang Sape Awu, Pulau Sirimau, Sumba Tambulaka Komodo Rinca Waikabubak Dobonsolo ferries all service Nusa ferries allservice Tatamailau, Pangrango Labuanbajo Ruteng F LORESA www.lonelyplanet.com Waingapu Melolo , Reo Dorolonda, Flores Baing Pota Riung Bajawa Raijua Pulau Ke-

information. islands alongtheway.See p516 formore boat tour,stoppingatKomodoandother Lombok andFlores orviceversa isona details. tions of individualtownentriesformore www.lonelyplanet.com mountain rangesmountain mean thatthere is no may take uptofourhours. mate journey times–atripof only100km that will rattle thefillings. Don’tunderesti- and there are underrepair usuallysections itisusuallynarrowandwinding, is sealed, riol frommanya traveller. Even iftheroad called off, passengers – a maddeninglocalpractice as thedriver for,andlater searches drops at thebeginning andendof each journey be prepared forendlessloopsaroundtown off andpickuppassengers. Inremote parts stoptodrop constantly and driedfish. Buses sengers, andanexcessof cluckingchickens near-zero legroom,betel-nut gobbingpas- Kupang– inTimor. trans-Sumbawa journeyasfarBima; and coaches: Lombok; the Mataram–Labuhan truck routes are covered byair-con express someofHowever, themaincross-island despite mostmainroadsbeingsealed. Tenggara hotandslowinNusa fortable, Travelling bybusisgenerally uncom- Bus Ende Moni A popularwayof travelling between Flores’ interminable switchbacks and Elsewhere expectanoven-hot buswith (1640m) Kelimutu Gunung Maumere keliling Pulau Sabu S AWU SEA that provokes curses and vit- Larantuka Pulau

Solor Semau Pulau Sagu Ba'a Pulau Kupang Pulau Rote (OECUSSI ENCLAVE) Pulau Lewoleba EAST TIMOR Balauring (Oecussi Town) Pantemakassar Gunung (1372m) Sirung Pulau WEST TIMOR Soe Kokar Baranusa Kefamenanu Kalabahi NUSA TENGGARA •• Getting There &Around NUSA TENGGARA••Getting Pulau Alor expect topay 350,000Rp to 500,000Rp a a car. are points, but goodcontact much more andexpensive torent difficult 300,000Rp, includingpetrol. Elsewhere it’s Consider hiringacarwith adriver from you’ll usuallyhave topayforanydamage. as insuranceisoften extremely basic,and first,member toinspect thecarthoroughly re-150,000Rp aday fora4WD),though Lombok(from sonable rates inSenggigi, cars canbefound atvery rea- Self-drive &Motorcycle Car from fellow passengers. Goodluck! office orbyfindingoutthecorrect tariff able ifbuyingfromtheactualbus company agents. priceisonly really Theright avail- formanytravelexpensive. goes Thesame willing to‘assist’,butthisgets more even are alwaysaroundhotels andbusterminals, foreigners routinelyget overcharged. Touts can beareal Tenggara hassleinNusa as toother destinations. through straight main ferries planning totravel forthose the usuallymeet Bima. buses Long-distance Mataramare between and buses alsonight spend longer lookingforpassengers. There day, theyare sotheyoften lesspatronised, Whereearly starts. leave buses later inthe 6amand8am,sobepreparedtween for and thepatienceof asaint. unless youhave allthetimeinworld waytocrosstheislandbyland comfortable Maubara Atapupu Taramana Buying bustickets price fortheright leaveMost buses inthemorning be- Batugede Batugede Timor DILI Same MALUKU T IMORSEA 0 0 Selat Wetar Baucau EAST TIMOR Palos Los 60 miles 100 km

487 NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA lights. commended, asmanyvehicles donot have isnotre-and goatsapply.Drivingatnight villages crowdedwithpedestrians,chickens buttheusualhazardsofmain highways, another island. vince anyonetoletyoutake theirbike to tocon- paperwork involved. It’sdifficult you andthebike ownerandthere isno ally amountstoacasualagreement between thisusu- 35,000-60,000Rp aday),though are possiblevirtuallyanywhere (around bring yourownmachine. Short-term hires mostofbetween theislands.It’sbestto and youcantransportyourbike onferries Tenggara,cycling isgreatNusa waytosee be chartered forshorter trips. can day, includingdriver andpetrol. Bemos 488 dry. Droughts, particularly inthe south and dry. Droughts, landscapes and partswhich are chronically from north tosouth,with lushevergreen 80km from easttowestand aboutthesame coast amagnetfor surfers. trekkers, andthebigbreaks onthesouth of thewater,GunungRinjani luring mighty drawing visitors for actionbothinandout Tenggara,Nusa withthefabledGili Islands Lombok isthemostpopulardestination in LOMBOK Denpasar NUSA TENGGARAAIRFARES Traffic isrelativelyTraffic onthe even light, If youare anexperiencedrider,motor- The island of Lombokshapes upat about LOMBOK •• History LOMBOK ••History Quoted fareswerecorrectatthetimeofwriting One-way airfaresin'000Rp BALI 270 Lombok Mataram Pulau 492 376 Sumbawa Sumbawa Besar Pulau 878 688 745 Bima Tambulaka 228 Sumba Pulau 242 Labuanbajo 512 782 Waingapu 393 Pulau Flores Ruteng 896 258 controlled Lombok. minority –alegacyof thetimewhenBali There’s alsoasignificantHinduBalinese culture andlanguage uniquetoLombok. the population)are Muslimsbuthave a introduced. also been , vanilla,pineappleandpepperhave and cottonare crops,while alsoimportant lands. Tobacco, coconuts,coffee, kapok are lowerhere thanonneighbouring is- in Lomboklessprecarious. ments inwater management have madelife ure recent andfamine–though improve- east, canlastformonths, causing cropfail- poepoetan –men, women and children in last rajah families surrendered by 100 lives, overran Here Cakranegara. the century, and, after aninitialdefeat thatcost common. rebellionsrisoned forts,and peasant were controlfromgar- hadtomaintain Balinese harmonious, but ineastern Lombokthe were and the Sasaks relativelythe Balinese hands. Balinese Lombok. By1750thewholeisland wasin the Makassarese, whoinvadedeastern who tookcontrolof western Lombok,and princedoms were usurpedbytheBalinese, In theearly 17thcenturyLombok’sSasak History 574 652 586 The indigenous (around 90%of Sasak yields crop,though Rice isanimportant The Dutch intervened inthelate 19thThe Dutch intervened In western Lombok, relations between Ende 714 229 472 Larantuka Maumere 359 397 168 Rote 369 Lewoleba 397 Kupang 411 Kalabahi 326 www.lonelyplanet.com Atambua Timor Pulau TIMOR EAST perang and 2005. bombsofcompounded bytheBali 2002 hasyettorecover, thesituation bok. Ultimately allLomboksuffered, and and provocateurs were fromoutside Lom- were theprimaryvictims,butagitators gulfed Mataram. ChristiansandChinese late ’90s,Lombokbegantofeel thepinch. economic crisisandpoliticalturmoilinthe speculators. As Indonesia descendedinto byoutsideinvestorsmostly developed and programme. the government-sponsored Many moved awayfromLombokunder 1966, andtosevere foodshortages in1973. growth, butcropfailures ledtofaminein ‘New Order’,there andsome wasstability communists andethnicChinese. 1965, Lombokexperiencedmasskillingsof Following theattempted coupinJakarta in Mataram becameits administrative capital. Tenggara Tenggara), (WestNusa Barat and became partof thenewprovince of Nusa elite. andSasak In1958Lombok Balinese Lombok continuedtobedominated by its with nomore than250troops. they controlledmore than500,000people aristocracy, and andtheSasak ing Balinese thesupportofable tomaintain thesurviv- perplexed Dutch, whokept shooting. white clothingthrowingthemselves atthe www.lonelyplanet.com On 17January riotsen- 2000,serious Tourism tookoffinthe1980sbutwas Under formerpresident Soeharto’s Even after Indonesianindependence, In thefollowingyears, theDutch were there inGiliTrawangan. are noparties local cultural sensibilities–during thistime sensitive aboutis atimeto beparticularly offensive todrinknear amosque. Ramadan definitely frowned upon.Itisparticularly isquiteout Lombok,public drunkenness though booze iswidelyavailablethrough- where isvery offensive. Gili Islands. Nudeortoplessbathingany- appropriately away fromSenggigi andthe fence. Bothmenandwomenshoulddress affection betweencouplescancauseof- and immodestdress and publicdisplaysof Most ofLombokisculturallyconservative, AVOIDING OFFENCE Islamic law forbids drinking alcoholand,Islamic lawforbidsdrinking

transmigrasi the business and tourism sectors. tionately powerful minority, particularly in are a dispropor-als. Today, theBalinese Lombok, alongsideindigenous animistritu- century, Hindu- culture dominatedBalinese thearrivalofland. Before Islaminthe15th the Mataram region andthewestof theis- tests andriots inMataram. borewhen theChinese thebruntof pro- resurfaced in early1998andJanuary 2000, andeconomic jealousycountry. Racism thatweresands the killedthroughout murdered alongwiththethou- enmasse, purge, manyof Lombok’s wereChinese Intheaftermath ofbusinesses. the1965 onandstartedindependence moststayed Dutch asacheap labour force,butafter firstChinese cametoLombok withthe lives The inAmpenanorCakranegara. each other. tostrike theirknees menwhouse between bawa, isanothertrialof strength, thistime of cowhide. Lanca, originallyfromSum- staves andsmallrectangular shieldsmade twomen usinglongrattan between a fight boxing’,times misleadinglycalled‘Sasak is one-on-one contests. Peresehan, some- trials of strength, physicalprowess and and marriage. relating tobirth,circumcision,courtship to theirwayof life, particularlycustoms Adat (traditionallaw)isstillfundamental liefs (see p492 ) andancientanimist rituals. retain much lessorthodox WektuTelu be- areVirtually allSasaks Muslims,butmany much minority. poorer thantheBalinese spread allover Lombokand are generally Bugis andArabs. are smallnumbers of Javanese, Chinese, and there about10%areSasak, Balinese, million. Almost90%of thepeopleare Lombok hasa populationof just over three Culture values isacute. IslamicandliberalWestern conservative practice of Islam,theculturalgulfbetween adoptingastricterBut withmanySasaks ing onanewinternational airportin2006. mains strong,particularlywithworkstart- Lombok’s are concentratedBalinese in Most of Lombok’s populationChinese show afascinationwithheroicSasaks Originally hillpeople,the areSasaks now Today Lombok’stourismpotential re- LOMBOK ••Culture

489 NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA

490 originated inJava, tells thestory of Panji, a festival (heldannually inlate July). Senggigi nies. Many are also performedduring the orlife-cycle ceremo-formed during seasonal a numberof traditionaldances that are per- Lombok hasanindigenous musicstyle and DANCE

To Bali (25km) Bali To To Bali (25km) Bali To LOMBOK

The popular Cupak Gerantang, whichThe popular CupakGerantang,

Bangko Bangko

LOMBOK ••Culture

Labuhan

Desert

Point Poh Lombok

Selat Gili Rengit Gili Terang Teluk Mekaki

Teluk

Gede

Gili Pelangan

Map (p512) See GiliTrawangan

I N D I A N O C E A N A E C O N A I D N I Pandanan

Senggigi Beach

Blongas

Taun

Nanggu

Gili Sekotong Gunung Pengsong Map (p508) See GiliMeno

Teluk Nare

Ampenan

B A L I S E A E S I L A B Mangsit ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ

Pusuk Senggigi Mataram

Pass

Pandanan

Banyumulek Sepi See MataramMap(p495)

Pura BatuBolong Montongsapah

Map (p506) See GiliAir Lembar

Tanjung Pengantap Gunung Saberis

Sira

Bangsal Pemenang

Gunung Rembiga Mareje (716m)

(865m)

Cakranegara

Gerung

Sweta

Kediri Mawi

Narmada, Lenek andPraya. Narmada, Lenek the young men and women of villages in ship, asocial dance,usually performedby Lombok. masks isfoundonly incentralandeastern the Kayak Sando,inwhich thedancers wear romantic hero. Aversion of thePanji story, Kali Tanjung

The Gandrung isaboutlove and court- Lingsar

Penunjak Endut

Lingsar

Ubung

(WEST LOMBOK) (WEST

Selong Blanak Selong LOMBOK BARAT LOMBOK

Pura

Karang Kates Karang

Papak

Mangkung

Tampa

Sukarara Keling Mawan

Teluk

Narmada

Penujak Sesaot Tiu Pupas Air Terjun

Narmada Taman

Air Nyet Air Batujai

ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ

Mawan

Selelas

Gangga Kayangan

Tiu Pupas Air Terjun Bon Jeruk Bon

Suranadi

Praya Kateng

Pura Suranadi

Puyung

Golong

Sengkol

Selengan Mantang Protected

Kali Forest Kuta Pejanggik

Sade Men

Akar Akar Akar

Rembitan Pancordao Air Terjun

(CENTRAL LOMBOK) (CENTRAL Kali in Waiageseng www.lonelyplanet.com LOMBOK TENGAH LOMBOK ting

Bathunyale Langko Joben

Kopang Babak

Tanjung Aan Tanjung

Mujur

Gerupak Segenter Air Terjun

Map (p519) See GunungRinjani Batu Nampar Batu Jukut Segara Kilang Danau

Anak Batu Koq Batu

Senkereang Pringga

Tetebatu

Senaru Jurang Gunung

(2919m)

Kotaraja

Gili Saya Gili

Taman Nasional Taman Rungkang

Gunung Rinjani Gunung

Sukadana Terara

Bumbang

Loloan

Loyok

Ganti

Awang

Janapria

Beleka

Pomotong

Timbanuh Kaliantan

Teluk

Ekas Gunung (2351m) Sukaraja Kali

Baru

Lendang

Nangka

Anyar

Sikur

Bayan

Kesik Runtak Kali Putih ὈὈ ὈὈ ᝲᝲ ᝲᝲ www.lonelyplanet.com

cylindrical drums called pairs, backed by singers, and tambourines out toofor theRudat,performed bymenin boys incentral andeastern Lombok. Look performed vigorouslyby menandyoung (big drum).TheOncer isanotherwardance performed tothe beatof a

Serewi

Pringgasela

Pengadangan

LOMBOK TIMUR LOMBOK

(EAST LOMBOK) (EAST Ekas Gunung

(3726m)

Masbagik Sakra Rinjani

ᝲᝲ ᝲᝲ ᝲᝲ Kali Putih Kali

A former war dance, Gendang Beleq is Beleq A formerwardance, Gendang

Jerowaru

Keruak

Aikmel

Masbagik Timur Masbagik

Pesugulan

Sajang

Gili Melayu Gili

Mayung

Anjani

Lenek

Putih

Tanjung Luar Tanjung

Suralaga

Sembalun

Lawang Gili Maringki Gili

0 0

Selong

Sekaroh

Bumbung

Sembalun Obel Obel Obel

Protected Sapit

Forest

Swela

Labuhan Haji Labuhan Blantung (2330m) Gunung Nangi

Pengasingan Gunung

Tanjung Ringgit

Pringgabaya

jidur

Sugian

Labuhan Lombok Selat Alas gendang beleq

.

Sambelia

Lawang

Gili

To Sumbawa To

Pandan

Labuhan Maluk

12 miles Pentangan Belang

20 km Sulat

Pulau

Gili

(25km) Gili

Lombok Raya, Mataram) Lombok Raya, .garuda-indonesia.com; Lombok Raya, Mataram) .garuda-indonesia.com; HotelLombokRaya, Silk Air Merpati GT Air Garuda inLombok: sented flights. and100,000Rpforintertic flights national from KL. Singapore, andMerpati to/ hasdailyflights to/from aweek karta. SilkAirhastwoflights toSurabaya withconnectionstoJa-flights andMataram). bawa (fromDenpasar (fromMataram) andtoBimaonSum- Besar Merpati alsohaslimitedtoSumbawa flights Air (fourdaily)andGT(twodaily). Mataram onMerpati daily),Wings (seven There are and to/from Denpasar dailyflights AIR &Away There Getting handgestures.and stylised pany theirmusicwithdancemovements a bambooflute anda ofusing asimpleset instruments,including staged attraditionalceremonies. other hardphysicallabour, butit’salso or It’s usuallyperformedafter harvesting orchestra) instruments. andBalinese nese the soundof thegamelan(traditionalJava- Tandak isthatthevocalistsimitate Gerok lute calleda boo flutes andonthetwo-stringed bowed tre andsingingtomusicplayedonbam- performance which combinesdance,thea- The Tandak isaneastern Lombok Gerok MUSIC and Lembar (Lombok) every 90minutes (Lombok) every and Lembar Ferries travel Padangbai between (Bali) Bali to/from elsewhere inIndonesia. andbyPelniwith Sumbawaand Bali, ship Lombok hasvery regular boatconnections BOAT Pejanggik 69,Mataram) Sahid Legi, Mataram) Sahid Offices fortheairlines currentlyOffices repre- The departure is10,000Rpfordomes- tax Lion AirandGarudabothoperate daily involvesmusicians seven The Genggong (

% LOMBOK •• Getting There &Away LOMBOK ••Getting ( ( (; (Garuda ( % % % See LionAir.See 0370-634935) Attheairport. 0370628254; www.silkair.com; Hotel 0370-629111; www.lionair.co.id; Hotel 0370621111; www.merpati.co.id; Jl rebab . Auniquefeature of the % rebab; theyaccom- 0370-638259; www

491 NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA (five tosixhours). to five hours) before headingontoSenggigi which nowstopsatall theGiliIslands(four (185,000Rp) fromPadangbai, boat service and takes 2½hours tocomplete thetrip. at8.30amandLombok2.30pm, part Bali islands it’snotpopular. It’sscheduled tode- the thepriceof between ceeds manyflights celling, andasthefare (fromUS$28) ex- buthasareputation (Bali) forcan- Benoa the Pelni withPelabuhan portat Lembar ( to five hours. and forcars 450,000Rp.Thetriptakes four are 21,000Rp,formotorcycles65,000Rp around theclock.Fares forfootpassengers 492 hours aday and thetrip takes 1½ hours. 32,000Rp, car 253,000Rp). They run 24 minutes (passenger 12,500Rp, motorcycle and Poto Tano 45 onSumbawaevery Ferries Lombok travel Labuhan between Sumbawa % There’s alsoaPerama shuttle busand Mabua Express Mabua The luxurycatamaran on specificdays,gettingtoseeoneisamatter ofluckandwordmouth. over theisland.Manyoftheseceremonies andritualsare annualevents, but,astheydonotfall time(April toMay),withcelebrationsinvillagesall toDecember),oratharvest (from October Wektu wishtoinvite theirancestorstoaceremony. offering ofbetel nut,andtheplacement ofabowlspringwaterwhenthe –are performed much respect ispaidtoWektuancestors. Three rituals–thereading ofsacred mantras,the daysinthecalendartoprovide return ritualblessings.departed onimportant Forthisreason, prophet. andthatMuhammedisAllah’s to holdfirmlyare thebeliefinAllah, pilgrimages there. theonlyfundamentaltenets Infact, ofIslamtowhichtheWektuTelu seem Their deadareeating pork. buriedwiththeirheadsfacing Mecca,butWektuTelu donotmake a dayaslaiddownbyIslamiclaw,theydonotbuildmosquesandsomehave to noobjection governance. sensitivity andcontrol).Wektulawsare basedonthethree principlesofreligion, customand (representing andwater), heaven, andthehead,bodylimbs(representing earth creativity, concept ofatrinityisembodiedinmanyWektuTelu beliefs, suchasthesun,moonandstars upthisreligion; Islamicandanimist influencesthatmake the complexmixture ofHindu, andthe numbers have beensteadily decliningasmore youngpeopleadhere Islam. toorthodox religion, andWektutraditionsritualscontinueundertheunifyingcodeofIslam.Nevertheless, figure aconservative asitisnotan‘officiallyrecognised’30,000), althoughthisisalmostcertainly Javanese Islamicsyncretism. thenumberofWektuadherents Officially isquite small(lessthan indigenous religion uniquetoLombok–thoughitbearsmanysimilaritiesAgami Jawi,the Believed tohave originated villageofBayan,WektuTelu inthenorthern (orWetuTelu) isan TELU WEKTU Lombok 0370-681225,Bali0361-721212) LOMBOK •• Getting There &Away LOMBOK ••Getting Most oftheWektuTelu religious festivals placeatthebeginning take oftherainyseason For theWektu,deathdoesnotsignifyendofaperson’ssoul,andthey believe thatthe The WektuTelu onlythree They observe daysoffastingduringRamadan. donotprayfive times In theSasaklanguage,wektumeans‘result’ andtelumeans‘three’. The nameprobablydenotes connects

(luxury 110,000Rp, seven hours), Sumbawa (luxury 110,000Rp, seven 110,000/135,000Rp, 12 hours), Denpasar no means acertainty. bus going inyourdirection, but thisisby fore 8am,there maybea spare ona seat in Mataram. Ifyouget totheterminal be- travel agency alongJlPejanggik/Selaparang day ortwoahead attheterminal, orfroma booktickets a services, For long-distance andJava,bawa, Bali viainter-island ferries. parture pointforthe major cities inSum- Mandalika terminal inMataram isthede- PUBLIC BUS the toBima, Makassargoes and Papua; and Ende, KupangandKalabahi; the Indonesia. The Pelni withotherpartsof shipslinkLembar Other Islands h Pelni office and .Tickets atthe canbebought Mataram. Sample fares are Bima(economy/luxury 8am-noon &1-3.30pmMon-Thu &Sat,8-11amFri) Tilongkabila toBima, Labuanbajo goes (Map (Map p495 ; Awu headstoWaingapu, % 0370-637212; Jl Industri 1; 0370-637212; JlIndustri www.lonelyplanet.com Kelimutu in

cause ofcause fallen rocksandrubble. Rinjani, andothers be- becomeimpassable away, particularlyaroundthefoothills of remote roads are often floodedorwashed –orwalk.Duringthewetseason, cycle taxi) cidomo (horse-drawncart)or tocharter youneed from these, abemo, erally restricted tothemainroutes; away on thenarrowside. Publictransportis gen- they’repretty roads,though decentsealed routes areMataram–Sengiggi–Anyar also Lombok. TheMataram–Praya–Kuta and Mataramthe island,between andLabuhan There isagoodroadacrossthemiddleof Around Getting company The Bali-based BUS/BOATTOURIST SHUTTLE 30 hours). hours) (luxury272,000Rp, andYogyakarta hours), (luxury179,000Rp,20 six hours), (luxury375,000Rp,38 (economy/luxury60,000/77,000Rp, Besar www.lonelyplanet.com or areas – theyellow bemos that shuttle Some bemos are restricted routes tocertain androadconditions. pending on distance per bemo perday(including petrol),de- and reasonably cheap –about175,000Rp more remote areas. after dark, oftennormally ceases earlier in port becomesscarce intheafternoon and will hassleendlessly. Mostpublictrans- drivers will still trytoovercharge and touts played attheterminals. Thebusandbemo cial government, andalistshould bedis- main routes, fares are fixed bytheprovin- from onepartof Lomboktoanother. For via oneormore of terminals toget these Pancor Youmayhave (nearSelong). togo regional terminals are inPraya,Anyarand 6km southeastof centralMataram; other The mainterminal, Mandalika, isatBertais, BUS &BEMO tour.com) include ferry charges. any travel agencyand inLombokorBali, prices. Tickets canbebooked directly, orat atsimilar companies offer similarservices region).Sanur andtheKuta Afew other and mosttouristcentres (Ubud, inBali theGiliIslandsandKuta) bok (Senggigi, themaintouristcentresbetween inLom- Chartering abemocan beconvenient has tourist shuttle bus/boat services hastouristshuttle bus/boatservices

Perama ojek (motor- (www.perama Gili Islands. there areSenggigi also shuttleboats to the day. From normally connectonthe same inMataram,ing shuttle buses butyoucan without chang-travel toBangsal fromKuta andTetebatu Bangsal ggigi, –soyoucan’t onlylinksMataram Sen- withKuta, service minimum forthe bustorun.Currently, this There’s atwo-person a shuttlebusservice. Lombok’s maintourist centres are linked by BUS TOURIST SHUTTLE IdoAdoDalmin ing, contact Lombok andarrange arental inSenggigi. ance regulations. Itisbetterto toproceed anymorestraightforward duetonewinsur- good reason forhiringacarwithdriver. will onlyoffer very basic cover –another any formof cover atall,andotheragencies carefully. Somesmallplacesdo not offer one. sess and youcanexpectafineifdon’tpos- come farmore commoninrecent years, not request it,butpolicechecks have be- Driving Licence–yourrental agency may foraround35,000Rpperday. and Senggigi expect topayabout325,000Rpperday. tion asyouwon’tbeliable foranydamage – a driver isavery andpopularop- sensible offered forlonger periods.Hiringacarwith 225,000Rp, excludingpetrol.Discountsare Kijangscostabout per day,andToyota roads. SuzukiJimnyscostfrom150,000Rp expensive. wider range of vehicles buttend tobemore ‘official’ car-rental companiesoften have a agencies offer themostcompetitive rates; rates are much higher. Hotels andtravel be madeinMataram andotherplaces,but car ormotorcyclerental. Arrangements can isbyfarthebestplacetoorganise Senggigi CAR &MOTORCYCLE services. for a4WDcar(includingpetrol) andhis lish. He charges around350,000Rpperday a reliable driver-guide whospeaksfairEng- trip toLembar. around Mataram cannot bechartered fora If you’d rather someone else didthedriv- If you’drathersomeoneelse Bringing avehicle isnotvery fromBali Check yourinsurancearrangements tohaveIt’s important anInternational Motorcycles canberented inMataram Jeep-style vehicles are bestforLombok’s LOMBOK •• Getting Around LOMBOK ••Getting Perama (www.peramatour.com)

( % 0813-3956-2129) isthe 493

, NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA in Lombok and has English-speaking doctors. in LombokandhasEnglish-speaking h Kantor Imigrasi Kantor IMMIGRATION Umum Sakit Rumah Police station EMERGENCY Information the coast. Pendidikan, backtowards bringstraffic Usaha–Jl Pancawarga–Jl Caturwarga–Jl one-way road,JlTumpangSari–JlPanca all theway,runningwesttoeast.Aparallel It’saone-waystreet asJlSelaparang. tais and finallytravels toBer- Sweta through changes thenJlPejanggik toJlLangko, quickly becomesJlYosSudarso, then asJlPabeanroad thatstarts inAmpenan, The fourtownsare spread alongonemain Orientation here.stay very few travellersat Senggigi, to choose the groundandthere are by beaches close lined avenues, are but,assights thinon unattractive cityandithassome broadtree- east, hometothebusterminal. It’snot an tothe andBertais-Sweta ened to‘Cakra’; short- often is gara (business centre), which Mataram (administrative centre); Cakrane- eration of towns–Ampenan(port); several Mataram, it’sactuallyaconglom- although andmaincityonLombokis The capital, % MATARAM network. operator,withthewidest most established 494 open longer than the banks). have ATMs and moneychangers (which cheques. Mataram Mall andtheairport also of them willchange cash andtravellers scattered maindrag; most alongCakra’s You’ll findplenty of banks with ATMs MONEY Deddy’s Mataram Mall. Most cybercafés are in thestreets around ACCESSINTERNET 2pm Mon-Thu, to12.30pmSat) to11amFri, dial % 8am-noon special service for tourists) Thebesthospital fortourists) 8am-noon specialservice 0370 /pop320,000 LOMBOK •• Mataram LOMBOK ••Mataram 110. (Mataram Mall; perhr6000Rp; Mall; (Mataram ( % ( % 631225; JlLangko)Inanemergency, 632520; JlUdayana2; ( % 622254; JlPejanggik 6; h 9am-9pm) h 7am- h sion ifrequested 1000Rp; & Sun,to11amFri) Negara 6;admission1500Rp; Selaparang. Selaparang. the palaceison western side,justoffJl was acourtof justice. pavilion) initscentre. The originalpavilion modest replica of abalekambang (floating alargeplex contains artificiallake, witha Thecom- theDutchbetween andBalinese. but in1894itwasthesite of bloodybattles with fishermen(foritslake) andfamilies, retreat,in Lombok.It’sapleasant popular kingdom’sroyalcourt part of theBalinese Hotel. and masksforcomparison. (silver- orgold-threaded cloth),basketware handicrafts, take alookatthekris, Sumbawa. Ifyouintend tobuyantiquesor ogy, historyandculture of Lombokand poie h wtr aae this palace, mission by donation; water the Opposite PURA MERU Built in1744this MAYURA WATER PALACE modern This BARAT MUSEUM NEGERINUSATENGGARA Sights West NusaTenggara office tourist office West Lomboktourist TOURIST INFORMATION Telkom airport. There are wartel onJlPejanggik andatthe TELEPHONE Sub-post office postoffice Main POST prince inan attempt tounite Lombok, it’s in Lombok. Built in 1720by aBalinese informative office. Sat) Hassomemapsandleaflets,butit’snotaparticularly 20; has betterdetailsandmapsaboutSumbawa. limitedinformationonLombok,but 12.30pm Sat)Offers 2; Jl Singosari ently located,buthasinternetandposterestante services. The entranceto the walledenclosure of h 24hr) Offers phoneandfaxservices. 24hr) Offers 7.30am-2pm Mon-Thu, 8am-1pm to11amFri, ( % h 633333; Jl Pendidikan 23, Mataram; 23,Mataram; 633333; JlPendidikan (Jl Langko, Ampenan)NeartheNitour (Jl 8am-2pm Mon-Thu, to to11amFri, (Jl Sriwijaya 37, Mataram) Inconveni- 37,Mataram) Sriwijaya (Jl museum hasexhibitsonthegeol- h h palace 8am-5pm) h 7am-7.30pm) www.lonelyplanet.com ( ( % % 8am-2pm Tue-Thu &Sat (Jl Selaparang; admis- Selaparang; (Jl 632519; JlPanji Tilar 621658; JlSuprapto isthe largest ( % wasonce temple 634800; songket (ad-

www.lonelyplanet.com 0 1 km MATARAM 0 0.5 miles

Jl Raya Senggigi Rembiga A To Galeria Nao (1km); B C To Pusuk D E F Senggigi (6km); Selaparang Airport Pass (11km); Bangsal (28km) Pemenang (17km)

Jl Subak Jl Ampenan 37

Sudirman Gelantik Jl 21 31 28 30 1 Jl Saleh Sungkar 25 15 12 2 Jl Pejanggik Jl Adi Sucipto Jl Hasanuddin 33 27 Jl Selaparang

Ampenan Jl Sutomo Lombok 1 Mataram 8 34 Market Mall 14 Strait JI Panca Usaha Cakranegara Market

Jl Maktal Jl Pabean Jl Koperasi Jl Udayana 16 Jl Nursiwan 26 18 Repatmaja Jl Jl Jl Panca Usaha 32

Jl Arya Banj Yos 19 0 400 m

Suda Jl

Jangkok Pura Lingsar Energi 0 0.2 miles

Kali Jakatawang r Jl Abimanyu so 22 (3km) Jl an Getas Jl Suprato To Lombok 3 6 Jl Transisto Handicraft Centre 2 stri 35 Jl Langko Mataram (600m) Police Transmigrasi 24 Station Jl Indu 9 Jl Pendidikan Jl 5 7 Jl Cokroaminoto

Jl Pejanggik Jl Hasanuddin Jl Caturwarga 23 11 36 Jl Pancawarga 13 Jl Pemuda 17 See Enlargement Kali Ancar Sweta

Jl Majapahit Jl Selaparang To Mandalika

Negara A Jl Bus/Bemo Terminal; Bertais Market (1km)

Rahman Hakim INFORMATION Jl Airlangga Bertais (1km); Taman ji Tilar Jl Panca Usaha ATMs...... 1 D1 Jl Tump Narmada (5km); Pura ang Sari Suranadi (11km);

Deddy's...... 2 D1 Jl Pan Jl Ismail Marzuki Labuhan Lombok (50km) 10 Jl Chanil Anwar 3 Kantor Imigrasi...... 3 C2 Cakranegara Main Post Office...... 4 C3 4 29 Rumah Sakit Umum Mataram Jl Sriwijaya To Gunung 20 Jl Brawijaya (Hospital)...... 5 D2 Pengsong (7km) Sub-Post Office...... 6 B2 Telkom...... 7 B2 SLEEPING Jakarta...... 26 A1 LOMBOK ••Mataram Jl Jelantik Gosa Wartel...... 8 D1 Ganesha Inn...... 15 E1 Rumah Makan Dirgahayu...... 27 D1 Wartel...... (see 1) Hotel Handika...... 16 D1 Seafood Alfa...... 28 E1 West Lombok Tourist Office...... 9 B2 Hotel Herta Yoga...... 17 D2

West Nusa Tenggara Tourist Hotel Lombok Raya...... 18 D1 SHOPPING Jl Lalu Mesir Jl Tgh Office...... 10 C3 Hotel Melati Viktor...... 19 E2 Lombok Pottery Centre...... 29 D3 To Banyumulek (10km);

Jl Gede Ngurah Hotel Sahid Legi...... 20 D3 Rinjani Handwoven...... 30 E1 Lembar (25km) Faisal SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Karthika II Hotel...... 21 E1 Selamat Riady...... 31 F1 4 Lampangan Mataram (Main Nitour Hotel...... 22 B2 Lion Air...... (see 20) Square)...... 11 C2 TRANSPORT Merpati...... 34 E1 Mayura Water Palace...... 12 F1 EATING Bemo Stop (Lembar, Bertais, Pelni...... 35 B2 Museum Negeri Nusa Tenggara Denny Bersaudara...... 23 D2 Ampenan & Sweta)...... 32 F2 Perama...... 36 D2

Barat...... 13 B2 Dua M...... 24 E2 Garuda...... (see 18) Silk Air...... (see 18) 495

Pura Meru...... 14 F1 Kristal...... 25 E1 Kebon Roek Terminal...... 33 A1 Trac Astra Rent-a-Car...... 37 C1 To Praya (20km); Kuta (35km) NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA is included. frames, infive price categories. Breakfast bed alarming carved-eagle with slightly an array of idiosyncratic rooms,some bathrooms; allhave verandas. garishly presented, rooms withmodern value placehas squeaky clean,ifslightly temple compound, thisexcellent- Balinese a ram; s/d40,000/50,000Rp,withair-con80,000/85,000Rp; 496 with fan/air-con70,000/90,000Rp; Hotel Herta Yoga Herta Hotel BUDGET convenient placetostay. andpleasant themostMost visitors findCakranegara Sleeping Pusuk Pass. ergetic, return viathesteeproadthrough Pemenang –ifyoufeel en- viaSenggigi roadfromMataramalong thecoastal to mulek andbackviaGunungPengsong, and interesting routes are Mataram toBanyu- Lombok isidealforbicycletouring.Two mainroads,Away fromthetraffic-heavy Activities one. ifyouneed sarong andBromo().(Bali) the three great Rinjani,Agung mountains: ma’s. The seven-tiered north, withninetiers, isVishnu’s; andthe 11 tiers, isShiva’sthemeruto house; which are inaline:thecentral well asthree meru(multiroofed shrines), court hasonelarge and33smallshrines, as of Theinner is themostimportant these). believers toceremonies (theJunefullmoon the woodendrumsthatare beaten tocall Vishnu andShiva. dedicated totheHindutrinityof Brahma, Breakfast isincluded. The fan-onlyroomsare much rougher. (Indonesian-style water-dunking baths). clothes railsandprivate showers/ less air-con rooms,withgoodmattresses, a con 85,000-130,000Rp, dwithair-con95,000-145,000Rp; 3,Cakra;s/dwithfan55,000/60,000Rp, swithair- Usaha Handika Hotel The caretaker and willlendyouasash The outer courtyardhasahallhousing IIHotel Karthika ) ) This is a new place with pleasant, spot- Thisisanewplacewithpleasant, Behind Mataram Mall, Behind thishotel has LOMBOK •• Mataram LOMBOK ••Mataram meru are torepresent alsosaid meru tothesouthisBrah-

( ( % % ( % 621775; JlPejanggik 64,Mata- 633578; fax635049;Jl Panca 641776; JlSubak1,Cakra;r a ) Built like a meru, with mandis 390,000/525,000Rp plus21%tax; .wasantara.net.id; 11,Cakra;s/dfrom JlPanca Usaha dishes 10,000-27,000Rp; as 81;r/deluxeantara.net.id; r365,000/580,000Rp; JlSriwijaya heat inthelarge poolorspa. such asmultichannel TV. Escapethecity beige butallwithbalconiesandmodcons, able rooms,theirdécorontheblandsideof trally situated hotel hasspacious,comfort- and expansive lawns. circular poolsurroundedbylushgardens appointed rooms,three restaurants anda intown,withwell base most comfortable Indonesian designinfluences.Itoffers the a 19; mains8000-30,000Rp; worn. Breakfast isincluded. random patches of garden,islookingabit the accommodation,scattered amongst Ganesha Inn Ganesha Mall. inMataramoutlets andIndonesianstaples You’ll findplentyof Western fast-food Eating Nitour Hotel MIDRANGE Viktor Melati Hotel bathrooms. 75,000/100,000Rp; Cakra; s/d45,000/50,000Rp,withhotwater&air-con Jl Pejanggik. sign nearthe roundabout along western cuisine. inSasak Lookforthespecialises Agreeable, airy andwelcoming placethat cious friedcarp(20,000Rp). such asfriedspinach and , anddeli- extensive menuthat includesveggie choices dishes 8000-25,000Rp; value rooms. 30,000/40,000Rp) Guesthousewithwell-presented, good- pensive localdishes. (freshwater orinex- sauce) fishwithsweet tuck intofresh fishlike yourself ononeof thecoloured stoolsand cleanandwelcomingplace;perchbright, 4; s/dfrom200,000/250,000Rp) LombokRaya Hotel Hotel Sahid Legi Sahid Hotel Or consider: Seafood Alfa Seafood Denny Bersaudra Dirgahayu Makan Rumah ) Huge, popularMakassar placewith an ) Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com Swish hotel thatmarriesmodernand ( % ( % a ( 624878; JlSubak2,Cakra;s/d % 623780; fax625328;JlYosSudarso (

) Smart andcleantiledroomswith ) Smart h % ( 660-0088; JlPejanggik 34,Cakra; % h h breakfast, lunch&dinner) 633830; JlAbimanyu1, ( 636282; [email protected] % ( % breakfast, lunch & dinner) www.lonelyplanet.com breakfast, lunch&dinner; gurami asammanis Welcoming,but 633619; Jl Pelikan 6;633619; JlPelikan 632305; lora@mataram as ( % 637559; JlCilinaya ) Thiscen- A

111, Cakra) Chinese cuisineandseafood. 20,000Rp; Javanese food. h Meninting) and Sumba,afew othercrafts. textiles, includingikatfromLombok,Flores Cakra) theLombokHandicraftCakra) Centre Ampenan. AtSayang(2kmnorthof theroadheadingnorthfrom Senggigi, Raya For handicrafts trythemanystores onJl Shopping AyamJakarta Mie 12,500-20,000Rp; www.lonelyplanet.com Senggigi (3000Rp). Senggigi to (1500Rp)and services bemo to Bertais side. leave from one of twocar parksoneither building, whilebemos andsmallerbuses leavebuses from behindthemainterminal commission-happy touts.Long-distance to keep headtoavoid alevel the‘help’ of the Java (see p487 ). and toSumbawa, Bali buses long-distance terminal fortheentire islandandalsofor isthe mainbusandbemo minal inBertais The sprawling,dustyMandalika buster- &Away There Getting competitive. pottery, andpriceshere canbereasonably and Nusa Tenggara.and Nusa a widerange of crafts fromacrossLombok Kristal the gardenandpond. chicken). facing Trytobagthelowtable goreng Taliwang (Sumbawa-stylespicy food,includingterrificthentic Sasak shop andbuytheirhandiwork. weaversYou cansee inactionatthiswork- magazine. wouldn’t lookoutof placeinWallpaper rary woodenfurniture andartefacts that Pejanggik 66) Perama Kebon terminal in Ampenanhas a Roek The terminal isfairly chaotic, sobesure Handwoven Rinjani Galeria Nao Galeria Other recommendations: Riady Selamat Centre Lombok Pottery Dua M breakfast, lunch&dinner)Scores fortasty,inexpensive ( % h Beautifully finished contempo- Beautifully Offers avastrange of Lombok ( % operates shuttle buses topopular operates shuttle buses 627564; JlPejanggik 22,Cakra;dishes6000- breakfast, lunch&dinner)Headhere for ( % 622914; Jl Transisto 99, Mataram; dishes 622914; JlTransisto99,Mataram; h ( 635928; www.peramatour.com; Jl % (Jl Pabean; dishes5000-12,000Rp; (Jl ( % breakfast, lunch&dinner) 626835; Jl Raya Senggigi 234, Senggigi 626835; JlRaya

631196; JlTanun 10)

( % ( 633169; JlPejanggik 44) % 640351; Jl Sriwijaya 640351; JlSriwijaya Offers ayam Au-

has

.trac.astra.co.id; Mataram) JlAdiSucipto5,Rembiga Kuta andTetebatu)Kuta andtoBali. destinations inLombok(includingBangsal, enough place to spendan hour ortwoenough cone, theextensive grounds are a pleasant terraced gardens hardlylooklike avolcanic the rectangular mainpool andmanicured drive costs385,000Rpperday. and scenery that Bali hastooffer.and scenerythat Bali reminiscent of someof thebestlandscapes with villages, rice fieldsandtemples; they’re ofEast Mataram are somegorgeous areas % AROUND MATARAM ( For ametered call taxi, TAXI through including petrolanddriver, is425,000Rp Sixhours’ hire ofSengiggi. Kijang, aToyota findamuchalmost certainly better dealin Most hotels canarrange rentals, butyou’ll CAR &MOTORCYCLE Lembar. fare Thestandard is1500Rp. and Ampenan, Sweta toBertais, services market isahandybemostopfor inCakra good placestocharter bemos.Outsidethe terminals are (10kmaway).These in Bertais minal inAmpenanandMandalika terminal Kebon shuttlebetween constantly ter- Roek walking fromplacetoplace. Yellow bemos Mataram isveryspread out,sodon’tplanon BEMO frequently toAmpenan. one of bemosthatrun thenumberseven of theairporttoJlAdiSuciptoandtake 145,000Rp toKuta.Alternatively, walkout and andLembar, gigi, 98,000RptoBangsal to anywhere inMataram, 48,000RptoSeng- prepaid desksells A taxi tickets: 17,500Rp northern sideof thecity5kmfromCakra. airportisontheLombok’s Selaparang TO/FROM THEAIRPORT Around Getting 5000Rp; its crater lake, this sion of thesummitof GunungRinjaniand Apparently designedasascaled-down ver- Taman Narmada % 0370 627000) h Rent-a-Car Trac Astra 7am-6pm) . LOMBOK ••AroundMataram was built in 1805. Though wasbuilt in1805.Though park Mp p401; admission pp490-1; (Map ( % Lombok Taksi 626363; www . Self- 497

NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA 6pm) from themainroad. which is300mdownawell-marked path near theentrancetotemple complex, (2000Rp).AskLingsar tobedroppedoff Narmada (2000Rp)andthenanother to dalika. Take abemofromtheterminal to nut leaves). each otherwith costumed parade,HindusandWektu pelt here yearinmid-December. every After a not toenter theouter buildings. (or bringyourown)toenter thetemple, but will beexpected torent and/orsarong asash (available outside).You boiled eggs atstalls enticed fromtheirhidingplaceswithhard- thatcanbe Vishnu andfortheholyeels toLord ponddevoted its smallenclosed temple inthesouthernsection. northern halfishigher different theHindutemple levels: inthe andbuiltontwo sections in twoseparate one complex.Thecompoundwasdesigned HinduandWektuTeluBali religions in the holiestinLombok.Itcombines hs large This LingsarPura posite theentrancetogardens. to Narmadamarket, which isdirectly op- way. Frequent bemosfromMandalika run south of Lombok’smaineast–westhigh- in thegrounds. also alarge swimmingpool(2000Rpextra) todwellonGunungRinjani.There’sis said who cember) inhonourof thegodBatara, held here year(inNovember every orDe- Pujawalicelebrationis andtheBalinese use, packed). Thetemple, (except perhapsonSunday,whenitgets ( temple amidstgorgeousSet countryside, this SurandiPura nation requested; ings (plus the obligatory holy eels). ings (plus theobligatoryholy eels). restored baths carv- with ornate Balinese have abubbling,icy cold naturalspring and worth avisitfor itslovely gardens,which 498 % Pura Lingsar is9kmnortheastofPura Lingsar Man- A huge ritualbattle,Perang Topat,isheld The WektuTelu temple is noted for Narmada is 6km east of Bertais, 100m Narmada is6kmeastof Bertais, Just above thetemple, 6606437; r30,000Rp) isoneof theholiestinLombok. It’s LOMBOK •• Around Mataram LOMBOK ••AroundMataram (Map (Map pp490-1 ; donationrequested; temple compound temple h (stickyriceincoco- 7am-6pm) isa friendly andwell- , isstillin Pura Kalasa than theWektuTelu , builtin1714,is Mp p401; do- pp490-1; (Map Losmen Jati h 7.30am- Hindu

Narmada. charterotherwise, or avehicle fromSesaot it’s alovely stroll(about 3km)from Sesaot; bridge androadtoAirNyetare but rough, The signed turn-offinthemiddleof Sesaot. and picnics.Ask fordirections fortheun- village, withmore optionsforswimming ing that,charter one. byfrequent publicbemos.Fail-and served The temple is6kmnorthwestof Narmada the neighbouring village of Suranadi. and there are plentyof cheap warungsin tothe temple, along themainroadclose tennis courts. has somefadedcharm, aswellapooland lonial atmosphere of the kept place,whilethe once-wonderfulco- mulek, acouple of kilometres to thewest. toBanyu- take theturn-off on theright andafter 6km to Lembar, the main road toMataram:close headsouth of on Sweta more traditional urnsandwater flasks. It’s pots withawoven fibre covering, as well Lombok, specialising indecorated potsand This isoneof themain Banyumulek hilltop Balinese This Gunung Pengsong the mainstreet. and bites are available atthewarungsalong There isregular transportfromNarmada, fromGunungRinjani. as itcomesstraight water isvery coolandisconsidered holy, spots andyoucanswimintheriver. The a forest. There are somegorgeous picnic a charming market townontheedge of Some 4kmnortheastof Suranadiis Sesaot, &Around Sesaot ( with your own wheels. with yourownwheels. transport comes here, soit’sbestvisited from theentrance. Very littledirect public walk uptothetopof thetemple complex plenty of peskymonkeys. It’sa15-minute nants of cannonscanbefound,aswell here towardstheendof WWII, andrem- Japanese and thesea. volcanoes soldiers hid green oceanof ricefieldstowardsdistant Mataram, viewsacrossa hasspectacular mission bydonation; % Several smart restaurants areSeveral dotted Just furthereast, 636411; fax635630;rfrom195,000Rp; h Air Nyetisanotherpretty 7am-6pm) temple www.lonelyplanet.com in centres pottery , 9kmsouthof Mp p401; ad- pp490-1; (Map Suranadi Hotel s ) still

Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com Raya Pelabuhan;Raya s/dwithbathroomfrom40,000Rp) and very hospitable get abite stuckorneed toeat,theclean Butifyoudosomehow ram andSenggigi. given thetransportconnections withMata- ful, there’s here noreason thenight tostay has tobeoneof Indonesia’smostbeauti- azure inletsringed bysoaringgreen hills, is Lembar. with theharbour itself, Though andPelniLombok’s mainportforBali ships % Lembar PENINSULA LEMBAR &THESOUTHWESTERN www.lonelyplanet.com the ground in thisregion, and someclose and restaurantsPlaces tostay are thin on SLEEPING &EATING some offshore pearlfarms. make alivingfromboatbuilding,and also island hassomeBugis villages, where locals haveGili Gede accommodation.Thelatter are inhabited. Currently, and Gili Nanggu beachessandy and offering finesnorkelling, lands, fringed with coconutpalm–studded tobringcampinggear.so you’llneed There’s Point noaccommodationatDesert , oneofDesert, Asia’s legendary surfbreaks. to Bangko the westpastBangko Tanjung Atrack continues to untilSelegang. sealed passing whitecoves, sandy isnarrowbut bells clanking.Theroadthat the area atthistimeandyou’llhearcow- rich pastureland visit intherainyseason; gion. Thehump-shaped inlandhillsform now itremains scenicre- atranquil,highly pocket of isongoinghere, development for big tourismdestination,butwhile theodd have hypedasLombok’snext longbeen and tinyoffshore islandswestof Sekotong The corrugated, beach-blessed coastline % Peninsula Southwestern ferries and boats between Bali andLembar.ferries Bali andboatsbetween ket See stopinCakra. p491 of fordetails (3500Rp), oryoucancatch oneatthe mar- bar andtheMandalika terminal inBertais 17000Rp). Therate includesbreakfast. Indonesian meals(dishesfrom8000Rpto very ownfishpond,andoffers very hearty It hasneatroomsandcottages, onewithits north of theferry portisanexcellentdeal. Only afew of thebeautiful offshore is- Plenty of Lem- bemosshuttlebetween 0370 0370 Losmen Tidar

hugs thecoast, ( % 681444; Jl 1km LOMBOK ••Lembar &theSouthwesternPeninsula bedroom villas 1,000,000Rp; r200,000Rp, bungalows250,000Rp, two landresort.com; ner) here. 27,000Rp; open breakfast, lunch anddin- restaurant (dishesseafood 16,000Rp to air-con bungalows.There isalsoadecent tages, pluslessattractive but comfortable rustic two-storey lumbung(ricebarn)cot- land hasabeachfront locationand Barat;villasUS$150-250; Sekotong Medang, JlRaya beyond.com/lombokhotels/nirvana.html; r without/withair-con55,000/85,000Rp; All rooms have or terraces and finesea commodation withCD players andfridges. offerson GiliGede spacious,modern ac- organised. option worthconsidering. losmen, 2kmnorthof Pelangan, abudget ownersrooms andhospitable make this season. Pricesincludeairport transfers.season. discountsinthequiet online forsubstantial tion hasstylishwood-panelledvillas. Book mangrove-fringedplace inasecluded loca- as afloatingislandresort, this luxurious 225,000/275,000Rp; .com; cottagess/d100,000/120,000Rp, bungalows Gili NangguCottages Islands Doyang Putri Mainland Pandanan. was duetoopeninlate 2006justwest of hotel andresort withaPADI divingcentre, and dinner). 5000Rp to20,000Rp;openbreakfast, lunch of Taun. There’s alsoarestaurant (dishes cation oppositebeach asandy 2km west tiled andcleanishroomswithagreat lo- area. fast, lunch anddinner)achic lounge (mains 20,000Rpto55,000Rp;openbreak- con rooms.There isalsoagoodrestaurant air- bungalowsand comfortable tagonal onafinestretchset of hasfunkyoc- sand Just westof Pelangan, thisattractive place Tembowong; s/d25,000/50,000Rp) .com; Jl Raya Bangko-Bangko; r160,000-280,000Rp; Bangko-Bangko; .com; JlRaya Sundancer Atthetimeof research,in therainyseason. Secret IslandResort Secret Sekotong Indah BeachCottages Indah Sekotong Bola Paradis Nirvana Roemah Air Roemah Nirvana (www.sundancerresort.com)

Lifts from Lembar canalso beLifts fromLembar ( % a 081 23752459; Jl Raya Pelangangi,081 23752459;JlRaya ( ) %

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% % a ( 623783; batuapi99@hotmail % 640107; www.lombokand 640107; www.lombokand 623783; www.gilinangu ) Thisnew resort 6613579; www.secretis a Simple, clean ) Billing itself Billingitself , ahuge new

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NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA sweeping bays, sweeping isLombok’s prin- Senggigi Superbly positionedalongastretch of % SENGGIGI around theislandsforabout225,000Rp. about 60,000Rponewayorarrange adaytrip Alternatively, youcancharter boatshere for Doyong losmen,2kmnorthof Pelangan. (both 8,000Rponeway),leaving fromPutri Tembowong andGiliRingit withGiliGede Tuan costs150,000Rp.Publicboatsconnect on aprahu ( fishingboat)from infrequent bemosuntilSelegang. by less regular, buttheroute isstillserved (25 minutes). Westof Pelengan transportis (1¾ hours, 30minutes) every viaSekotong andPelangan Lembar buzzbetween Bemos THERE&AWAYGETTING and dive tripscanbearranged. pool andare planned.Kayak, snorkel Check outthehottub,andaspa,plunge tles upgreat andbarbecuedmeats. seafood views.Thebar-restaurantmountain rus- 500 1 3 2 SENGGIGI Kapusan To reach areturn GiliNanggu, charter Pura 0370 Padangbai (70km) To GiliIslands(16km); LOMBOK •• Senggigi LOMBOK ••Senggigi Jl Raya Senggigi Selat Lombok AC Qunci Villas&Restaurant(3km); Holiday ResortLombok(3.5km); To Alang(2.25km); Santai BeachInn(2.5km); Windy Cottages(3km); Mangsit (3.5km) 25 Senggigi Pantai 28 18 5 B 30 29 19 17 9 24 3 6 15 and hisnet. beach toyourself,bartheoddfisherman you canpretty much guaranteetohave a of wonderful,near-deserted coves, where a floatingvillage sky. againstthenight up offshore, lanterns itsbright glintinglike rants. As itgets lines dark,the fishingfleet restau-enjoyed fromoneof theseafront the blood-red over sunsets thatcanbe Bali the sunsinksalleyesturnwesttotake in the street hawkers. shopping mallsbutplentyof attention from expectquietrestaurants andempty season, years. Unlessyouvisitinpeak eral tough tempt todrawintouristsfollowing sev- luxury hotels have slashedrates inanat- is generally excellentvalueformoney,as cipal beach resort. Accommodation here tels, are on the main road, Jl Raya Senggigi, tels, Senggigi, are onthemainroad,JlRaya facilities, andafairconcentrationof ho- road.Mostofcoastal theshopsandother area spansabout 10kmofThe Senggigi Orientation 7 thereNorth of isasuccession Senggigi beaches, hasfinesandy andas Senggigi 27 20 4 26 10 1 22 13 Mosque 23 31 14 16 Mosque 2 0 0 Senggigi

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Jl Palma Raja 0.3 miles 500 m rocky volcanic outcrop that juts into the sea rocky volcanicoutcropthatjutsinto thesea Senggigi BeachHotel. Senggigi travellers cheques. where youcanchangeSenggigi cash and Indonesia (BNI)have branches onJlRaya Negara andBank Asia Central (BCA) Bank There are ATMs several incentralSenggigi. MONEY Superstar gigi; permin300Rp; Café Internet Millennium double aswartels. Most internet cafésonthemainstrip also ACCESSINTERNET &TELEPHONES Police Tourist Clinic Medical Senggigi Police station The nearest are hospitals inMataram. EMERGENCY Information Street numbers are notused. which about 6kmnorthof starts Ampenan. www.lonelyplanet.com temple The smallpagodasof thismodestBalinese PURA BATU BOLONG Sights Post office POST Market). SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Sheraton Senggigi BeachResort...... Senggigi BeachHotel...... Raja's Bungalows...... Mascot Cottages...... Lina Cottages...... Hotel Elen...... Café Wayan...... Batu BolongCottages...... Rinjani TrekClub...... (see 20) Dream Divers...... Dive Indonesia...... Blue MarlinDiveCentre...... Superstar...... Senggigi MedicalClinic...... (see 17) Post Office...... Police Station...... Millennium InternetCafé...... BNI ATM...... BCA ATM...... BCA ATM...... (admission bydonation; (Senggigi PlazaA2;permin300Rp; (Senggigi (Jl Raya Senggigi) Raya (Jl ( ( % % h 632733) 110) Next to the Pasar Seni (Art tothePasar (Art 110) Next Seni 24hr) (

% ( % h 693856) Basedatthe 693860; Jl Raya Seng- 693860; JlRaya 7am-7pm) cling to a clingtoa h 24hr) 11 10 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 D3 C2 B2 C3 C2 C2 B1 C2 B2 C3 C2 B1 B2 C2 C2 C3 C2 D3 SHOPPING DRINKING EATING Office...... Happy Café...... Club Tropicana...... Warung...... Sugar Café...... Papaya Café...... English TeaRoom...... Cafe Wayan...... (see 12) Café Alberto...... ...... Asmara...... Perama...... Kotasi...... (see 13) Departure Point ForPeramaBoats...... Pasar Seni...... Asmara Collection...... (see 19) Sugar Café...... (see 24) Papaya Café...... (see 23) TRANSPORT Raya Senggigi) Raya Jl Raya Senggigi) Jl Raya etiquette, see theboxedetiquette, see text, p489 . bolong (literally, ‘rockwithhole’).Fortemple a naturalholethatgives ititsname– Therockunderneaththetemple has sunsets. andisafavouredest mountain, spottowatch oriented towardsGunungAgung, holi- Bali’s to snackandcooloffatthebeach below. It’s scuttle over andfamiliescomehere statues, Crabs about 2kmsouthof centralSenggigi. Rinjani Trek Club Trek Rinjani you coulddropbythelocaloffice of the If you’re thinkingof hikingGunungRinjani, Divers Dream Indonesia Dive Centre Dive Blue Marlin dive centres: consider basingyourselfthere. Professional visit theGiliIslands,soyoumaywantto Hotel. Beach spotsalongthebeach nearSenggigi several snorkelling gear (25,000Rpperday)from few kilometres northof town.Youcanhire headland, andinfrontof WindyCottages, a inthesheltered bayaroundthe in Senggigi, There’s reasonable snorkelling offthepoint Activities and conditions. .com; Galeria Mall, Jl Raya Senggigi) Senggigi) JlRaya Mall, .com; Galeria Lombok) &HolidayResort Senggigi .com; JlRaya Diving trips from Senggigi normally Diving tripsfromSenggigi ( forinformationaboutroutes % ( %

( % 692047; www.dreamdivers.com; Jl 639367; www.diveindonesiaonline LOMBOK ••Senggigi 693202; [email protected]; 693202; [email protected]; ( % 692003; www.dive-indo 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 31 30 29

batu B2 B2 C2 C2 A1 B2 C2 C2 D3 C2 C2 B2 B2 501 NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA breakfast 200,000Rp; space too. ers. There’s plentyof communalchilling bathrooms withboth zany outdoorbathrooms–thisplacehas ceilings,bamboofurniturewith high and ellers, hasinviting,spotlessrooms Raja’s that’spopularwith trav-mian guesthouse adjoining Indo-Chinese restaurant.adjoining Indo-Chinese on thesmallsideandfanonly.There’s an choice withavarietyof rooms,thecheapies onthebeach,position right Lina’sisagood view 60,000/75,000/150,000Rp; cation overlooking ablossom-filled garden. and withlarge bathtubs,enjoy apeacefullo- artefacts beautiful ikatfabricsandBalinese four stylish rooms,tastefully furnished with 14,000Rp to30,000Rp). air-con rooms andarestaurant (dishes views.Also hassome randas, many withsea The attractive thatched cottages have ve- can hire gear here for15,000Rpperday). place withdecent snorkelling offshore (you Santai BeachInn Mangsit Elen Hotel Senggigi BUDGET Senggigi. the maindrag,JlRaya islocatedVirtually everything onorjustoff Sleeping 75,000Rp; .com; s/d60,000/75,000Rp) r 140,000Rp; tara.net.id; cottageswithcold/hot water110,000/150,000Rp, there’s abookexchange. pavilion,communally inapleasant and (15,000/25,000Rp lunch/dinner) are eaten Inexpensive, healthyveggie andfishdishes constructed fromlocalwoodandbamboo. of rusticlumbungandspaciousbungalows, the beach, thisunusualplacehasaselection 100,000/150,000Rp) 502 very localmosques. early morningwake-up callfromthetwo very cheerful rooms.Primeyourselfforan lows 95,000-200,000Rp) .com; lumbungs/dinclbreakfast 70,000/80,000Rp,bunga- Lina Cottages Café Wayan Café Bulan Baru Windy Cottages Raja’s Bungalows Raja’s LOMBOK •• Senggigi LOMBOK ••Senggigi a a ( % ) Aquadrangleof cheap ifnot ) Charming,popular beachside 693014; rwithout/withair-con50,000/ (New Moon Hotel; Attherear of thecafé,these ( as % ( ( ( % % % ( Set inalush garden by Set % 693237; rwithfan/air-con/sea 693191; [email protected] 693098; s/dinclbreakfast 693038; www.santaibeachinn Awelcoming,bohe- 081 23770138;rajas22@yahoo ) Set inalovely Set gar- a mandis andshow- ) Occupyingpole % 693786; rincl yakartalombok; rUS$38-43,stefromUS$63; yakartalombok; lows s/d200,000/275,000Rp; tired, however. Breakfast isincluded. yond. Itscheaper digs are lookingalittle beachfront plot,withthewaves justbe- cious roomswithfridges facingalawned extends towardsthebeach. has air-con inagardenthat bungalows set vation atthetimeof research, thisplace in the complex. There’s a large pool,a spaand tennis courts 105 and 106 have uninterrupted views. sea back fromthebeach, only though dens set inlush gar-rooms enjoy abeautifulsetting bungalows with spacious,comfortable BeachHotel Senggigi Senggigi listed here are usuallyavailable. luxury hotels, sodiscountsontherackrates andMangsit haveSenggigi anexcessof TOP END Lombok Holiday Resort Mangsit a large pool. air-con views.There’s roomswithsea also offers competitive rates onitscomfortable 5kmsouthoffront setting centralSenggigi, This Indonesianchain hotel, inabeach- 260,000Rp; inland/beachsidebungalows125,000/ [email protected]; Batu BolongCottages Senggigi MIDRANGE nursery forchildren aged twoto11. scuba school, andaplaygroundday private bungalows.Alsohasafinespaand modation options,fromrooms to large luxury hotel withthefullgamutof accom- local culture. Children aren’t allowed. a mineof informationabout Lombokand arefriendly Australianowners, andstaff, air-con andbathrooms with hotwater. The well-furnished rooms,allwithminibars, beach, thiswelcominghotel hasspacious, den andashort walkfromafinesandy bungalows fromUS$140; rfromUS$68, Senggigi; lombok;JlRaya holiday resort 194 plus21%tax; beach..com; rUS$97, beachbungalowsUS$121- Mascot Cottages Mascot Jayakarta Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com a ) Thisplacehasgood-value, spa- ( as %

693048; www.indo.com/hotels/ja ( % as ) These classy detached classydetached These a ( (

693365; fax693236;bunga- % % ( www.lonelyplanet.com % ) 693065; bbcresort_lom Undergoing reno- ) 693210; www.senggigi Awell-designed 693444; fax693092; as ) Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com garden/ocean-view rUS$85/109plus21%tax; breads andcakes. and yummyfreshly bakeddishes, seafood, menu of pizza,pasta soupsandsalads, place withanextensiveish Balinese-run .com; s/dbungalowsUS$80/110) row terrace. There’s always adailyspecial. uponanar- and Indocookingserved main strip, comehere forinexpensive Thai popular little restaurant onthe servedly ton.com; rfromUS$178) defining Lombokluxe. to thatcomeclose (from US$325anight) in thehillsbehindhotel are twovillas wealthy, upwelcoming. Fortheseriously are extremelyfind thestaff welltrainedand and avery finerestaurant (see right ). You’ll There isasmallpoolattheocean’sedge Europeans andrich kidsfromJakarta. view)andpopularwithmoneyed best sea niably gorgeous forthe (bookroomeight Japanese influence. Theroomsare unde- and book minimalistdesignwithBalinese Lombok’s hippesthotel, combining text- Mangsit www.lonelyplanet.com Café Wayan Café SENGGIGI pots of noodlesbubble. north toMangsit, where sate sizzlesand head tothehillsidewarungson the route dinersevening –phoneforaride. restaurants. Many offer free transportfor eat out,there beingaglutof cosmopolitan isanexcellentplaceto Senggigi Central Eating 22,000-44,000Rp; stretch of andthepoolissmall. sand, views. Thebeach here consistsof anarrow only bungalows101to110have decentsea woodfurniture, but ous bedsandBalinese most are withcommodi- semidetached to aroundUS$80anight. and healthclub.Discountscandroprates decorative textiles, andawell-regarded spa most withtimberfloors, huge bedsand tre, thisfinehotel hascommodiousrooms, Qunci Villas Bumbu Sugar Café Alang For authenticIndonesianstreet food, Sheraton Senggigi Hotel Sheraton Senggigi ( % ( % a 692236; mains18,000-30,000Rp) ( 693098; dishes9000-45,000Rp) % ( ( % % ) Perhaps the mostmodern 6194000; Plaza Senggigi; mains6194000; Plaza Senggigi; 693518; www.alang-alang-villas Justnorthof thecen- 693800; www.quncivillas.com;

Stylishbungalows, ( % 693333; www.shera as Styl- De- ) mains 18,000-75,000Rp; a Sq; dishes21,000-65,000Rp; 46,000-64,000Rp) a juicyimported steak. think meatybangers andcreamy mash, or to thishotel restaurant forcomfort food– Indonesian andAsian fusioncuisine. andcreative,tables beautifullypresented resto atmospheric,withcandlelit ishighly place intown,thischic littlelounge bar– Bulan Baru MANGSIT bars andadisco ortwo. All bars are on Jl of theroad, revolving around ahandful of after-darkSenggigi’s actionispretty middle &Entertainment Drinking small poolandplayarea. Children are wellcatered for,andthere’s a Indonesian andinternational favourites. Mediterranean herb-crusted fishfillet)plus offerstaurant fineEuropeancuisine(trythe spacious andairytwo-storey thatched res- ommended byexpats,thiscomfortable, the best cocktails intown. the bestcocktails andJapaneseChinese dishesandsomeof place hasatempting menuof Indonesian, stonewalls,thisenjoyableand exposed sunloungers. andthensnoozeitoffononeofsand the joyable restaurant. Lunch onthe atatable suspects ingenerous portions)atthisen- orIndonesiancuisine(theusualpasta) (pizzaand from theroad,feast onItalian Occupying alarge beachfront plot away race table upstairs.race table some interesting coffees too. There’s ater- lon andIndonesiangreen andyou’llfind well asterrific cakes. Theteas includeCey- a widechoice of andsandwichesas salads ful place,located inashoppingplaza,offers during happyhour (4pmto7pm). party startedwith two-for-one cocktails dishes. Arrive before andget sunset the risotto – andseafood think tunabalsamico menu withboth Asian andEuropean – rific hotel restaurant (see left ) hasamodern a Qunci English Tea Room Alberto Café Asmara Papaya Café Papaya Café ) ) Invitinglydecorated,sofas withrattan A civilised air-conA civilised retreat, thisdelight- (

% ( % ( % 693800; www.quncivillas.com; mains 693786; mains24,000-48,000Rp) Abutting the beach, thister- ( ( % % 693619; www.asmara-group.com; 693619; www.asmara-group.com; 693616; mains28,000-50,000Rp; as 693313; mains30,000-85,000Rp) LOMBOK ••Senggigi ( % h 692085; Blok A4, Sengiggi 692085; BlokA4,Sengiggi breakfast, lunch&dinner; ) Consistently rec- Head Head 503

NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA playing reggae orpoptunes. but popularbarhasaresident cover band 4pm to8pm. for arelaxed drink.Happy hourisfrom the edge, butthePapaya alsohaslive musicof Perama BOAT &Away There Getting and icraft stalls, The Pasar (ArtMarket) Seni hassomehand- under-occupied –many stores are vacant. shoppingmallsare woefully Senggigi’s Shopping around 1am,orearlierifit’svery quiet. exceptone,andtheyclose Sengiggi Raya 504 Tetebatu (80,000Rp). (80,000Rp) andKuta other places within Lombok, including (160,000Rp) andUbud (160,000Rp), and airport Bali/Bali includingKuta, and Bali, Senggigi dailybetween and boat services ists iscommonon thisroute. Pemenang Overcharging tour- andBayan. (3000Rp), somecontinuing northasfar the Kebon terminal in Ampenan Roek fromRegular bemos travel toSenggigi BUS Raya Senggigi) Raya serves finefood. serves and amixed clientele. gayandstraight Also place withelectronicaandlounge music them inadvance. 120,000Rp) totheGilismostdays; contact p501 ) alsooperateshuttles (from speedboat Thedive schoolsto dealwithBangsal. (see 70,000Rp, which meansyouavoid having daily boattotheGiliIslandsat 9amfor slightly cheesyslightly DJs. middle-aged expats. ontheTV.events ispopularwith Office andlive views,apooltable sunset sports a look. the mainroadtoAmpenanare alsoworth fine weavings, tribalartandfurniture. h Papaya Café Papaya Café Office Happy Café Perama touristshuttle bus hasseveral Club Tropicana Sugar Café The warehouses andcraftshopsalong 11pm-2am) variety every night andisfine night muzak varietyevery LOMBOK ••GiliIslands ( % ( % , infrontof therestaurant, has 693007; Jl Raya Senggigi) 693007; JlRaya ( Oldskool-stylediscowith 693162) % ( ( % %

081 23962206; Senggigi Plaza) 081 23962206;Senggigi Asmara Collection Asmara ( 693984) % 693616) Beachside barwithfine Beachside 693432; admission25,000Rp; This slightly staid This slightly It’s hardlycutting operates a ( % 693619; Jl Hip desa so report anytheft to theisland There are nopoliceon any of theGilis, DANGERS &ANNOYANCES comes fromwellsandisabitsaline. in mostplacestheGiliIslands, the water falls somewhere thetwo. between Note that, Meno isvery mellowandAir’satmosphere charm –Trawanganhasabigpartyscene, snorkelling isexcellenttoo. professional scuba-divingcentres, andthe domo andtheoddbicycle.island has Each the Gilisare hometojustthetinkling for rent. thesimplebamboo-and-thatchtween huts villas andrustic-chic bungalowsdotted be- have diversified andnowthere are luxury but inrecent years accommodationoptions stopover fortravellers ontheAsian trail, and GiliTrawanganwere abudget-priced For years theislandsof GiliAir,Meno ing withakaleidoscopicarrayof reef fish. beachessandy andpellucidwater teem- tiny coral-fringed islands,each with white is avisionof –atrioof tropicalparadise Just offthenorthwestern coast of Lombok % GILI ISLANDS ofUS$500 incase damage). ance covers youforamaximumcharge of from175,000Rpperday(itsinsur-jeeps has motorcyclesfrom40,000Rpperdayand prompt gigi costs48,000Rp.Very and efficient A prepaid fromtheairporttoSeng- taxi Around Getting or travel agent. Kotasi askatanyhotel able forhire inSenggigi; lifts fordiners; callforaride. Remember thatmanyrestaurants offer free area andbeyond. you aroundtheSenggigi Each GilihasitsowncharacterEach and freeDelightfully of cars andmotorcycles, Cars andmotorcycles areCars readily avail- the ale. islands –this goesdoubleafter anighton and donot attempt to swim betweenthe strong. Take care offshore, when snorkelling Currents between theGiliIslandsare very GILI ISLANDSCURRENTS: WARNING 0370 (village head),or, ifyouare onGili Bluebird taxis ( % ( % www.lonelyplanet.com 693804; Jl Raya Senggigi) Senggigi) 693804; JlRaya 627000) will whisk kepala ci- treating jellyfishstings. a painfulrash.See p885 forthebestways of blow fromthemainland,andthey canleave ascompetition. males thattheysee and theycanget very territorial with other press visitingWestern women, andseduce ofgaggle localgigoloswhocompete toim- eter partsof islandhasa theislands.Each it’s besttowalkhomeinpairs tothequi- whileonthe Gilis– assault ment andeven women have harass- experiencedsexual mum of fuss. or trackdownstolenpropertywithamini- toresolvecommunity contacts problems your hotel ordive centre. its Satgasuses viaorganisation thatrunsislandaffairs Trawangan, notifySatgas,thecommunity www.lonelyplanet.com bus or bemo toPemenang, from where it’s of Bangsal. the idyllic harbourof Teluk Nare, south passenger numbers), which leave from per person, depending ondestinationand range transfers (125,000Rpto250,000Rp Dive ( p512 ) onGiliTrawangancanar- BlueMarlinor speedboat: and Manta Alternatively, you canbookashuttlebus (thecheapest route).the Gilis)orBangsal there isadirect to Perama boatservice (fromwhereyou cantravel viaSenggigi on fromthere. orflytoMataram andtravelon toSenggigi, stops atalltheGiliIslandsbefore heading five hours fromPadangbai), which now (185,000Rp, ama shuttlebus/boatservice thePer- mostpeopleeitheruse From Bali, THERE&AWAYGETTING Jellyfish are commonwhenstrongwinds Incidents are rare, foreign butseveral Coming by public transport, catch a Coming fromotherpartsof Lombok, via theGilidive schools–theseusetheserene littlebayofTeluk Nare tothesouth. gigi aspeedboat transfer andtheGilis,orbybooking (fromUS$12,15minutes) to/fromLombok from thehustlersonyourwaytoterminal. a Hiring tales. calm,andheadstraightfortheramshackleboat terminal Keep togetyourticket. to completely ignore anythingthatyou’re told here aboutboatsbeingcancelled,orothertall has becomesooverrun withpersistent small-timehustlersand would-bescammersthatit’sbest isthegateway forpublicboatstotheGilis.Bangsal, asqualidlittleport, Frankly,it’saholeand SURVIVING BANGSAL It’s quite possibletoavoidBangsalaltogetherbyusingthePerama betweenSeng- boatservice Public stopinPemenang bemostoBangsalactually onthemainroad,1kmfromport. (around 3000Rp) to the port ismoneywellspentasit’llsave youanear-bendingcidamo (around3000Rp)totheport

timetable at the islands’dock. timetable gets backtoAirat 4.30pm.Checkthelatest (having stopped there forhalfanhour)and Trawangan at3.30pm, Meno at4.15pm boat leaves Airat3pm,Meno at3.15pm, turns toAirat10am.Intheafternoons the 9.30am andMeno againat9.45am,andre- stops byMeno at8.45am,Trawangan drink. for asunset Meno andget backtoAirorTrawangan spend thedaysnorkelling andexploring allthreebetween islands,meaning youcan thatloops There’s atwice-dailyboatservice Island-Hopping pay about 20,000Rp for atwo-hour jaunt. rain; ashort trip costs around 7000Rp, or an island isagreat waytoexplore theter- trips, hiring acidomo around on footorbybicycle. Forlonger The Gilisare toget flatand easyenough AROUND GETTING ashore withyourluggage. they get totheGilis,soyou’llhave towade charters canalsobeorganised inBangsal. and 8800RptoGiliTrawangan.Special 5500Rp toGiliAir,6800RpMeno for theothertwoislands.One-wayfares are shouldn’t have towaitmore thananhour for theboattoGiliMeno tofillup,you (about 18people).Whileitcantake hours 8amto5pm)don’tleave(roughly untilfull prices are displayed,butthepublicboats sold attheKoperasiharbouroffice,where hasslethere.the inevitable Boattickets are boxed text, above forhowbesttodealwith harbour.sal the isaheadache; see Bangsal about 1kmby The morningboatleaves Air at8.30am, All boatspulluponthebeach when cidomo (3000Rp)toBang- LOMBOK ••GiliIslands foraclip-clop around

505 NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA ὄὄ

NUSA TENGGARA per min400Rp; takes aboutanhourandahalf. around theisland–it’salovely walkthat path Air it’ssimplesttofollowthecoastal can get quite confusingattimes.Toexplore of theisland dirttracksthatcrisscrosses best beaches forswimming.Thenetwork eastern andsoutherncoasts,which have the accommodation andrestaurants are onthe prices marked clearly outside. Virtuallyall There’s asmall INFORMATION bour office land, nearthejetty,and Boats stopatthesouthernendof theis- ORIENTATION bar scenecanget quite lively. the season the maindraw,butinhigh water andlaid-backquoise atmosphere are Itsnarrowwhite-sandbeaches, tur-in Bali. Rinjani and,onaclearday,GunungAgung withdramaticviewsof Gunungtaposed its coconutgrove–filled, flatlandscapejux- island retains adistinctlyruralcharacter, GiliMeno.Trawangan andsedate The going appealcontrastswithparty-boy Gili tothemainland, Closest Gili Air’seasy- pop 1800 Gili Air rates are poor. BlueMarlin charge 7%for money, aswillHotel GiliAir,butexchange internet accessandawartel andwillchange to theGiliIndahHotel. 506 (1.5km) To GiliMeno 1 2 GILI AIR B ALISE LOMBOK ••GiliIslands ὄὄὄ ὄὄ ὄὄ ὄὄ ( A h h 14 8am-5.30pm) 8am-8pm) Perama 10 Jetty 24 4 19 2 1 Takat has pedestrian-paced office Landing 12 Ozzy’s Shop Boat has ahuthere with 0 0 To Bangsal 17 11 (3.5km) 25 9 8 15 13 ( 5 % 7 16 20 21 6 23 22 3 Koperasi har- 637816) 18 B Hans Reef ( % 0.3 miles 500 m 622179; close close Takat Sira p511 formore information.GiliAirhastwo theboxeda shortboatrideaway.See text, minimum fourpeople) clinic inthevillage formedicalservices. cash advancesoncredit cards.There’s a gear canbehired fromOzzy’sShop off theeastcoast,andeasybeach access; You’ll finddiverse marine life Snorkelling &Diving the unmarked trails. up insomeone’sbackyardattimesdueto andyou’regoing abittough, sure toend trackscanmake sandy the though light, theislandbybikea day.Exploring isade- Ozzy’s Shop hasbikes forhire for20,000Rp Cycling ACTIVITIES ates be extremely strong.Ozzy’sShop alsooper- first aboutcurrents, assometimestheycan 15,000Rp aday.Checkwithdive centres DRINKING EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Dream Divers...... Blue MarlinDiveCentre...... Perama...... Ozzy's Shop...... Medical Clinic...... Koperasi/Public BoatOffice...... Star Bar...... Legend Pub...... Gita Gili...... Chill OutBar...... Sasak Warung...... Munchies...... Hotel GiliAir...... (see 12) Gecko Cafe...... Coconut Cottages...... (see 8) Blue Marlin...... (see 5) Abdi Fantastik...... (see 7) Sunrise Cottages&Restaurant...... Pondok Sandi...... Pino Cottages...... Nusa TigaBungalows...... Lucky's...... Kira Kira...... Hotel GiliAir...... Gusung Indah...... Gili IndahHotel...... Gili AirSantay...... Coconut Cottages...... Abdi Fantastik...... There are good several glass-bottomed boattours aroundallthree islands. www.lonelyplanet.com scuba divingsites

(per person40,000Rp, snorkelling 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

B2 A2 B1 B1 B1 A2 B2 B1 B1 B2 B1 A2 B1 A2 A2 B1 A1 B2 B2 B2 B2 A2 B2 B1 B2 for

Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com serves Japanese dishessuch astempura. serves The restaurant (openfrom7amto9pm) and hammocks,overlooking asmallgarden. furniture,tan large ceilingfans,decentbeds well-presented thatched cottages, withrat- www.diveindo.com) www.dreamdivers.com) conuts-giliair.com; r110,000-180,000Rp) 80,000Rp) s/d 40,000/50,000Rp) Gusung Indah a finerestaurant here too(see right ). furniture andbedside reading There’s lights. all have good-quality mattresses, bamboo have shell-inlaid decorative and detailing, den. Someof cottages thewell-maintained spread aroundafecund, well-tended gar- ofa selection atmosphericaccommodation welcoming Indo-Scottishownedplace with Gili AirSantay Budget listed, exceptLucky’s. son. Breakfast isincludedinallthehotels expect adiscountof about25%inlowsea- Prices quoted here rates are – high-season SLEEPING Centre Dive dive schools, BlueMarlin www.lonelyplanet.com .net.id; s70,000-110,000Rp,d80,000-125,000Rp) has rustictwo-storey the real runplace cheapies, thisefficiently café-restaurant. a safe forvaluables andagreat beachside is attherear of apretty garden.There’s accommodation iswellspacedapart and areas (withadaybedandhammock). The living galows withbathroomsandseparate mocks andfairlymodernbathrooms. category. Allcomewithham- bog-standard bamboo-and-timber hutsare justabove the in aquietcoconutgrove, spacious these hammock toswingin. from theshore. Theyhave verandas, anda thatched bungalows are justafew metres – neat–ratherthan‘fantastik’ these vistas, 50,000-75,000Rp, d80,000-100,000Rp) view. with verandas are decent value. You paymore for a sea Facing agoodstretch ofbeach, thesesimplebungalows Also worth considering: Kira Kira Abdi Fantastik Sunrise Cottages&Restaurant Sunrise Coconut Cottages Enjoyingunobstructed sea ( % (

% ( % ( Divers andDream 641021; [email protected] Set backfromthebeach Set 081 23789054; r70,000-100,000Rp) 641022; [email protected]; 641022; [email protected]; ( . %

636421; bungalows75,000- lumbung-style bun- ( % 635365; www.co A classabove A delightful, Adelightful,

( %

( % % Stylish, 642370; s 634547; 634387; for homesick Divemasters. by apple crumble –are anisland institution dinnersnight –suchfollowed asroastbeef fee, orIndonesian .TheWednesday isgoodforsandwiches,cake andcof- caff ware: service canbeslow. ware: service –there’s Be- the sea nothingfancy, though. and Western dishes,manylocatedby right Indonesian array of simpleplacesserving Dining outinGiliAirisatreat, with an EATING views.sive sea air-con andhuge frontdeckswithexpan- constructed bungalows.Thebest have run GiliIndahhasavarietyof good,well- Conveniently tothejetty,well- close Hotel Gili Indah Pondok Sandi Pino Cottages Nusa Tiga Bungalows Lucky’s conut ,orsate. dishes thatinclude goodpumpkin-and-co- views of GunungRinjaniandtuckinto yourself onabeachside soakup the table, pelecing on theislandatfairprices;try Come here forsomeof food thebestSasak gardens lookneglected. ture; thepoolissmalland however, marble bathandattractive wooden furni- ternational hotel chain–style rooms, with of digs–fromrustic-but-comfy hutstoin- ‘proper’ hotel, thisplaceoffers four classes the eastcoast. bamboo bungalowssetinacoconutgrove,inlandfrom dinner from35,000Rp; location. family,thesebasicbungalowsenjoyaquiet by afriendly 63; US$43- US$17, withhotwaterUS$33,&TV .wasantara.net.id; bungalows200,000-350,000Rp; combines Western andIndonesian dishes; Midrange these spacioushutscomewithbathrooms. thatched cottageswithhammocks. back fromthebeach,Pino haswell-maintained andclean 28,000Rp) Coconut Cottages Abdi Fantastik GiliAir Hotel Gecko Café Café Gecko Santay as ( % An inventively prepared menu that (spicywater spinach). ( ) % Setting itself upastheisland’s itself Setting 081 23782156;bungalows45,000Rp)Run (s/d50,000/100,000Rp)Facing thesea, ( ( % 641022; dishes12,000-20,000Rp) % ( ( 641014; dishes10,000-25,000Rp, Wed % % h 639304; r 60,000-80,000Rp) Set 639304; r60,000-80,000Rp)Set LOMBOK ••GiliIslands ( % (r40,000-50,000Rp)Basic 634435; www.hotelgiliair.com; r 636421; dishes10,000-25,000Rp) lunch &dinner) 637328; gili_indah@mataram ( % 635365; dishes 10,000- Thisfriendly kangkung Perch a 507

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NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA Serves fine curries, fish and overflowing sandwiches. fishandoverflowing finecurries, Serves by thewavesunderpretty shelllanterns. ally pretty quietatnight. fortheoddparty,GiliAirisgener-Except DRINKING &ENTERTAINMENT Sasak Warung season. son) duringthehigh (40,000Rp perper- Wednesdaynight every served buffet, Sasak rant. Trythefantastic hotelyou’ll dinewellinthispleasant restau- its charismatic trickster barman. Marlin, thislittlebar’strumpcardisAzam, Munchies here isprompt. The service Indonesiandishesandsteaks. It alsoserves best venue ontheisland. forpizzaandpasta Recommended byresident foreigners asthe breakfasts. sandwichesandstick-to-yer-ribspasta, upameanburger,here aswell serves The bestbetforWestern food,thekitchen 508 (1km) To GiliTrawangan 1 3 2 Deep Turbo GILI MENO Wall (15m) Star Bar Blue Marlin Or try: GiliAir Hotel Gili Meno LOMBOK ••GiliIslands B ALISE (dishes7500-26,000Rp; Meno Slope ὄ ὄ ὄ ὄὄὄ ὄὄ Bounty Resort ( Former Jetty h AC (21m) (mains12,000-28,000Rp)Dinewellhere 3pm-late Thu-Tue) Simon's Reef ( % ( % 13 7 634387; dishes15,000-35,000Rp) 634435; dishes15,000-56,000Rp) Lake Salt ὄ ὄὄ ὄ h Next totheBlue 1 lunch &dinner) 4 B 5 14 6 10 15 11 9 12 8 2 3 Cabbage Coral Reef –Good Snorkelling Patch (28m) ὄ

16 Landing Boat lake inthedryseason. thatproduces salt steads, andashallow coconutplantations picturesque beach. Inlandyou’llfindhome- the eastern coast,ne Most accommodationisstrungoutalong ORIENTATION so desire, alongMeno’s isolated shores. shouldyou hard toplayRobinsonCrusoe, such asmallpermanentpopulation,it’s not lands, andithasthebestbeaches. With Gili Meno isthequietest of thethree is- pop 300 Gili Meno bass lines. with speakers bumpin’to(mainly)reggae the bigonehere, season, especiallyinhigh 5-7pm, party 10pm-2amWed) 5-7pm, party sink acoldone. on request youcanwatch aDVDwhileyou spirits and cocktails. spirits andcocktails. tors of andlocals,hasagoodselection Legend Pub Gita Gili Chill OutBar ( h To Bangsal (6km) ( Tao Kombo...... (see 14) Rust Warung...... 's Child...... (see 10) Good HeartCafé...... (see 7) Villa Nautilus...... Tao Kombo...... Taman Burung(BirdPark)Resort...... (see 4) Sunset Gecko...... Rusty's Bungalows...... Royal ReefResort...... Malia's Child...... Kontiki Meno...... Hotel GazeboMeno...... Good Heart...... Biru Meno...... Amber House...... Taman Burung...... Blue MarlinDiveCentre...... Wartel &Internet...... Perama...... (see 9) Medical Clinic...... Villa Nautilus...... (see 15) EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION h 11-1am) ( h 10am-11.30pm Thu-Tue, happyhour 11-2am) 0 0 ar thewidestandmost A friendlybar,where Wednesday night is Wednesdaynight www.lonelyplanet.com Popular withvisi- To GiliAir(1.5km) D 0.3 miles 500 m 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 B2 B2 B3 A2 B2 B2 B2 B3 B3 A1 B3 B1 B2 B2 B2 B2 Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com agent and shuttlebusorboattickets, thetravel Kontiki Meno, atpoorrates. Fortours hotels, includingtheGazeboMeno and boat landing.Moneycanbeexchanged at .com; platforms/bungalows 25,000/90,000Rp) in Mataram. a resident nurse. Doctors are alsooncall the About 300minlandfromtheboatlanding, SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES access most basicsupplies.Internet boat landing,soyouwillbeabletolocate There are acoupleof minimarkets bythe INFORMATION www.lonelyplanet.com but thisis notvery reliable. In theory, allplaceshave 24-hourpower, of up to 25%are possiblethe rest of the year. Prices quoted –reductions are season high and rates don’tusually includebreakfast. than equivalentlodgings ontheotherGilis, placesareBasic generally more expensive Budget SLEEPING diving, see theboxeddiving, see text, p511 . Divemaster. Formore onsnorkelling and dives andcourses fromDiscover Scubato Centre Centre the bestplacetogoforthis. the stateof thecurrents –BlueMarlin is your accommodation).Alwaysask about is available for20,000Rpperday(askat of the(abandoned)BountyResort–gear near GoodHeart andalsoaroundthejetty huts,onthewestcoast the AmberHouse snorkelling offthenortheastcoastnear ask thefishermenthere. There’s good glass-bottomed boats,leave fromthejetty– son, minimumfourpeople),sometimes in commodation isavailable (see p510 ). times are alsoheld.There’s abar,andac- a large covered expanse bynetting.Feeding for three hours aday,whentheyflyaround dragon. The birds are letoutof theircages well asthree kangaroosandababyKomodo otic speciesfromAsia andAustralasia,as well-cared-for collectionof 300orsoex- 30,000Rp; 750Rp) [email protected]) Meno bungalows.The Tao Kombo Snorkelling trips(40,000Rpperper- Taman Burung and awartel are available nearthe Perama ( % h 639979; www.diveindo.com) 9am-5pm) ( ( % % 081 23722174; tao_kombo@yahoo Bird Park 632824) , nearthebirdpark,has hasanimpressive and

medical clinic is based atKontiki is based ( % Blue Marlin Dive Dive Blue Marlin 642321; admission offers fun fun offers About

(thegilim (per min hotmail.com; bungalows/house150,000/350,000Rp) con 90,000/150,000Rp; built twin-deck owned placehasarowof superb,newly- lounge andabar-restaurant (see p510 ). generator for24-hourpower,achill out mosquito netsandsafety boxes). There’s a platforms(withmattresses,bamboo sleeping scattered aroundalarge garden,and some tractive, individuallydecorated bungalows 200m inland,thismellowplacehasat- orderly bungalows overlooking thesea. orderly bungalows overlooking Resort Royal Reef sea view. sea doorways. Book1or2foranuninterrupted bungalows, somewithelaborately carved serving inexpensive localfood. serving and coralwalls.There’s alsoarestaurant lows; themostexpensive have bigwindows ofhas aselection bunga- spacioussea-facing in atranquilspotsouthof themainstrip.It bungalows in a flourishing garden with sea aspects. gardenwithseaaspects. bungalows in aflourishing bamboo .com; s/dfrom 30,000/40,000Rp)Attractive Amber House offpeak. drop substantially nesian andWestern food isplanned.Rates Japanese, Indo- ling. Arestaurant serving next toatranquil beach withsomesnorkel- of It’sinan isolated naturallight. spotbut dation hasexcellent ventilation andplenty island fromitsupperdeck.Allaccommo- –enjoythebestviewson timber house bungalows andastunningtwo-bedroom has gorgeous ecostandards, high A-frame new place,builtbyamultinational team to sandy beach.sandy toilets sitpretty onawell-raked stretch of lows withfans,mosquitonetsandWestern tive, orderlybamboo-and-thatch bunga- .com; r150,000Rp) 100,000Rp) 150,000Rp) low season. Discounts of around40%are offered inthe change andagoodrestaurant (see p510 ). Trawangan, andthere’s alsoabook ex- posite anarrowstretch of beach thatfaces freshwater bathrooms.GoodHart isop- with coconut-woodroofs andbeautiful Biru Meno Malia’s Child Malia’s Meno Kontiki Other recommendations: Good Heart Sunset Gecko Thisexcellent,friendlyBalinese- Avery welcomingplacelocated ( % ( % Facing attrac- these thesea,

( ( ( 643676; amber_house02@hotmail % % ( LOMBOK ••GiliIslands % 081 33657322;bungalows % lumbung-like a 632824; bungalowswithfan/air- 622007; www.gilimeno-mallias 642340; r150,000Rp) Largeand (081 5766418;firefrog11@ 081 339556976;bungalows ) Cleanbreeze-block bungalows

80,000-

This

509 NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA a www.balipvbgroup.com; dm/deluxe r30,000/300,000Rp; sine here too. andIndonesian cui- Tuck into fineItalian lounge andapool table. tunes, cocktails by Frenchman Bob.Ithas achilled vibe, h US$75; 20,000Rp; dressing roomanddowntotheshower. views.Steps leaduptothebedroom/ for sea on toadecked terrace –bookvilla1,2or3 the lounge which level, hasdoors opening design allowsplentyof toflood naturallight natural wood,marbleandlimestone. The fully finished incontemporary stylewith air-con US$30/65; Western favourites. andamenuoflow tables Indonesianand h slow. canbe which isjustaswellservice landing alloffer fineviewsforyourmeal, The beachfront restaurants near theboat EATING &DRINKING Nautilus Villa Top End Taman Burung(BirdPark) Resort Midrange behind theboatlanding. 50,000/60,000Rp) Bog-standardbutacceptablehuts Rusty’s Bungalows 510 small saltwaterswimmingpool. floors, desksandchaise lounges. There’s a have adistinctlycolonialfeel withparquet just offthebeach. Bungalowswithair-con inacoconut grovestylish bungalowsset the restaurant and Beatles-themed bartoo.the restaurant andBeatles-themed dormitory withthree bunkbeds.Checkout equipment, aswellafunky self-catering players andbasic con roomswithTV/DVD bar hasavariety of cocktails. the trees. BBQsare heldregularly andthe bamboo windchimes andshellsdecorating has arelaxed atmosphere, which isaidedby Perfectly GoodHeart primedforthesunset, h Villa Nautilus Villa Good Heart Café Café Good Heart Rust Warung Meno Gazebo Hotel Tao Kombo breakfast, lunch &dinner) ) breakfast, lunch&dinner) breakfast, lunch&dinner) Thisplaceoffers air- fourcomfortable LOMBOK ••GiliIslands a h ) Deluxe detachedvillas,beauti- breakfast, lunch&dinner,happyhour6-8pm)

( % ( as %

( ( % 081 23722174;mains9000-24,000Rp; % (PondokWisata;

642143; www.villanautilus.com; r ( % 642143; mains15,000-27,000Rp; 642324; mains6000-28,000Rp; ) Classy,spaciousand ( 081 339556976;mains7500- Come here forbreak- % Simpleberugawith Popularbarrun /fax 635795;rwithfan/ %

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5.30pm) wood-fired oven. orapizzafromthe fast, asandwich,pasta taurants. The Koperasiharbouroffice taurants. of Trawangan’saccommodation andres- land, which isalsohome tovirtuallyall Boats dockonthe eastern sideof theis- ORIENTATION &INFORMATION in Trawangan55years ago. scended fromBugisfishermen whoarrived astheislandersculties, however, are de- this moratoriumisnotwithout its diffi- sharks frequently spotted here. Culturally, turtles andtoppredators such asreef sulted ingreatly increased diversity, with reefs, initiative apioneering thathasre- scuba schools not that theisland’sfishermen are paidbythe inland fromthebeach. the landscape,particularlyinvillage just anddiscardedgarbagedevelopment, blots ment hasyettocatch upwiththepace of hours. until theearly night main stripbuzzesevery still plentyof tranquilcorners, theisland’s ism isreally vibrant,andwhile there are one cornerof Tenggara Nusa where tour- as rupiah-lite gap-yearstudents.It’s the ing Singaporeans are almostascommon meant thatJakartan hipsters andweekend- sushi restaurants andboutique hotels –has a mushrooming lux-fest of lounge bars, island’s increasingly upmarket facilities– string ravers dostillflockhere, butthe budget-priced digsanddive centres. Shoe- hedonistic Indonesiansthat’sawashwith for backpackersisland, aShangri La and Trawangan hasareputation asaparty pop 1500 Gili Trawangan h on one of the seaside berugas. on oneof theseaside withfineviewsor either onanupperlevel Indonesian foodandpizzaserved with tasty hefty 7%commission. give cash advances on credit cardsfor a lers cheques, butrates are poor. Dive shops stretch of beach isjust northof the dock. prices clearlymarked outside. Thebest Malia’s Child Malia’s Diving issocriticaltothelocaleconomy Unfortunately, manage-environmental Several placeswillchangeSeveral cash ortravel- breakfast, lunch&dinner) hasahutatthe boatlanding,with Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com ( % 622007; dishes15,000-28,000Rp; to fish on Trawangan’s You’lleatwellhere, www.lonelyplanet.com

( h 8am- eastern waterfront. Oneoptionis You’ll findvariousplacesspread alongthe OmbakClinic Villa Satgas Emergency www.lonelyplanet.com security on the island. Contact itviayourhotelordiveschool. ontheisland.Contact security Seni (ArtMarket).Seni postcards are soldinthewartel andPasar Internet Access&Telephone Villa Ombak. There and isnopostoffice,butstamps ing currents, so anything can come out of the big blue (including, very occasionally, mantas or even whalesharks). ing currents, soanythingcancomeoutofthebigblue (including,veryoccasionally,mantasoreven impressive table coral.Large pelagic are frequently encountered and strongcurrents are rarely an issue. there canbeastrongsurge. Atshallowdepths well asschoolsofbumphead parrotfishandmantas. Lookouttooforcuttlefish andoctopuses. Deep Halik hasprolificmarinelife, whileoverBounty Resort onAirthewallsoffeastcoastare good. areright offthemainbeach,where often turtles seen.AroundGiliMeno,thepierby(closed) andfinscanbehiredMasks, snorkels foraslittle20,000Rpperday.OnTrawangantrythearea information, consultwww.biorock.net. Biorock installationsare located directly opposite Hotel Villa Ombakatadepthof8m.Formore currentsaccelerators called‘Biorock’–theseuse electrical tostimulate coraldevelopment. Two 30,000Rp withtheirfirstdive. Anotherinitiative hasseentheestablishmentofseveral reef growth improve theconditionof reefs. fee Alldivers of helpfundthetrustby payingaone-off schools. detailsofdive Forcontact schools,seeindividualislandentries. course isUS$225,Divemaster atUS$650,andNitrox andTrimexdives starts are offered bysome of10dives.discounts forapackage APADI OpenWater coursecostsUS$300,theAdvanced training are professional. Rates are fixed (nomatter whoyoudive with)atUS$25adive, with times oftheyearmantaraysglidebydive sites. moon, large schoolsofbumpheadparrotfishappeartofeast oncoralspawns, whileatother and themacrolifepipefishlotsofcrustaceans. Aroundfull isexcellent,withseahorses, that marinelife isplentifulandvaried. Turtles andblack- reef andwhite-tip sharksare common, damage tothetemperature-sensitive reefs backinthe1990s,have theirtoll–you’llfind taken good condition–yearsoffishbombingandtheElNiñophenomenon,which caused‘heatstroke’ The GiliIslandsare aterrific dive destination.Though corallife above 18misnotgenerallyin UNDERWATER GILIS Sunset (Manta Point) racuda and leopard sharks. Simon’s Reef Shark Point Japanese Wreck Hans Reef Deep Turbo another site ideal for Nitrox divers. Soft coralis prolific,andthere areanother siteidealforNitrox divers. lotsofnudibranchs,lionfishandfrogfish. Soft be seenat28mto30m. seahorses andpipefish. seahorses Some ofthebestdive sites: Surrounded bycoralreefs andwitheasybeachaccess,theGilisare too. superb forsnorkelling betweendiveThe operatorsandthelocalcommunity, aimsto GiliEcoTrust,apartnership Safety standardsare highintheGilis–there are nododgydive and schools,andinstructors A community organisation which controls Acommunityorganisationwhichcontrols Off the northeast coast of Gili Air. Great for macro life (small stuff), including frogfish, ghostfish, includingfrogfish, coastofGiliAir. thenortheast Great formacrolife Off (smallstuff), Perhaps the most exhilarating dive in the Gilis: reef sharks and turtles are spottedveryregularly, as Perhaps themostexhilaratingdiveinGilis: reef sharks andturtles The canyonlike profile of this site is ideally suited to drift diving. Black- and white-tip sharks can often sharkscanoften diving. Black- andwhite-tip profileofthissiteisideallysuitedtodrift The canyonlike At around30m,thissiteisidealforNitroxdiving. Ithas impressive seafansandcatchestheprevail- The reef here canbeseen andoccasionallygreat isinexcellent condition,schoolsof trevally bar- ( h For experienced diversonly(asitliesat45m),thisshipwreck of a Japanesepatrolboatis Forexperienced 9am-5pm) JustsouthofHotel

The sloping profile ofthereef here hasgoodcoral growthbelow18m, including some Lighten- has awartel. on themainstrip. to coralreefs canbebooked atmanystores person, includingsnorkelling equipment) Glass-bottomed boattrips(40,000Rpper Boat Trips &Snorkelling SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES Perama Travel Agencies just north ofthejetty. just north ing (internet accessperminute400Rp) ( % 638514; www.peramatour.com) Located LOMBOK ••GiliIslands , which also

511 NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA ὄ ὄ

NUSA TENGGARA Diving Manta Dive Manta Divers Dream Indonesia Dive Centre Dive Blue Marlin Big Bubble Gili Trawangan: theboxedinformation, see text, p511 . cowboys andinexpensive prices.Formore scuba schools, established nowith seven Trawangan isaveritable diver’s delight 512 jetty. 20,000Rp perdayfromshacks nearthe to accessit. you’ll have toscrambleover somelowcoral offthenorthwest coast,but the lighthouse line. The reef isinbetter shape to close strong currents furtheroutfromtheshore- here.coral damage inevidence of Beware north of there’s thejetty,though plentyof .com) line.com) 1 3 2 GILI TRAWANGAN Halik Deep Shark Point Professional dive centres operatingfrom Snorkel gear canbehired foraround There’s fairsnorkelling offthebeach Lombok Halik Reef Selat LOMBOK ••GiliIslands B ALISE Reef –GoodSnorkelling ὄ ὄ Lighthouse ( Beach ( % AC % ( % ( 32 625020; www.bigbubblediving.com) % 643649; www.manta-dive.com) 17 21 634496; www.dreamdivers.com) 642289; www.diveindonesianon Lookout ( % 16 632424; www.diveindo 28 ὄ ὄ See Enlargement 34 19 18 B 10 Turbo Reef Beach Wall (15m) Trawangan To Senggigi (18km) Trawangan boarding andsportsfishing. US$50) per15minincltuition150,000Rp,fishing Bar; watersports Surfing &WaterSurfing Sports [email protected]) from justsouth of thejetty. Gunung Agung. ting, you’ll have a terrific viewof Bali’s Japanese gunplacement) asthesunisset- corner (which hasthe remains of an old your walkatthe hillonthesouthwestern island inacouple of hours – if youfinish or bybike. Youcanwalkaroundthewhole Trawangan isperfect forexploringonfoot &CyclingWalking Ombok. year long.You’llfinditjustsouth of Villa tideandcanbe best athigh surfed all over acoraloutcropthatisn’tsharp.It’s waveTrawangan’s fastright-hand breaks OmbakDivingAcademy Villa Trawangan Diving .com) Bangsal (18m) Gili Meno Slope (7km) Bikes can behired from 15,000Rp a day (1km) To To offers water-skiing, wake- parasailing, 0 0 Fun Ferrari 29 30 ( % 22 24 0.1 miles 26 649220; www.trawangandive 200 m ( 3 % 20 12 27 0 0 43 www.lonelyplanet.com 33 39 11 081 23756138; Horizontal 081 23756138;Horizontal 37 Mosque 15 ( 41 % 40 42 7 (Art Market) ὄ 14 Pasar Seni 35 638531; Jetty 5 38 25 D 31 Surf Break 8 23 6 4 1 2 13 0.3 miles 36 500 m 9 Jetty 44 Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com tached thatched hutsall have two bedsand anat- simple,secluded from the mainstrip,these south coast, yetonlya five-minute walk not included. galows withplain furnishings. Breakfast is action, thisplace hascleanconcrete bun- fast isincludedunlessstatedotherwise. which Break- dropbyabout30%offpeak. hangoversinevitable) witha morningdip. (perhapson thebeach, neutralisingthose can stumbleoutof yourbungalowandflop the area northof theharbour,where you address. Perhaps thehottest real is estate lage, andyou’llpaymore forabeachside very cheapest accommodationisinthevil- beach hutstoprivate villas.Mostof the inGiliTrawangan,fromsimpleto stay There are approaching ahundred places SLEEPING www.lonelyplanet.com style hutsthatcatch theafternoon breeze. coast, opposite alittlebeach, withtraditional- Cottages Pandian Wangi Budget with fansandmossienets. Friendly placewithsimple,clean rooms neat littlegarden. lady,thespotless rooms herenese face a andfriendlyBali- Run byahouse-proud 50,000/60,000Rp) Blue BeachCottages..... Big Bubble...... (see5) Beach WindBungalows.. Beach House...... Academy...... Villa OmbakDriving Trawangan Diving...... Manta Dive...... Fun Ferrari...... (see41) Dream Divers...... Dive Indonesia...... Blue MarlinDiveCentre.. Big Bubble...... Wartel...... Villa OmbakClinic...... Perama...... Lightening...... SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION SLEEPING Pondok Sederhana Rates quoted prices, areRates high-season Pak Majid Sunset Cottages Pondok Santai . Friendly place on the southwest Friendlyplaceonthesouthwest (r 60,000Rp) (s/d 60,000/70,000Rp)

11 10 14 13 12 ( % 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

D3 B2 D2 D2 D3 D2 D2 D1 D1 D3 D2 D3 D2 D2 ( % In thethickof the 081 338609964;r60,000Rp) (s/d 40,000/75,000Rp) Tir NaNog...... (see43) Sunset Cottages...... Sama Bungalows...... Puri Hondje...... Pondok Sederhana...... Pondok Santai...... Pondok Lita...... Cottages...... Pandian Wangi Pak Majid...... Martas...... Manta...... Lisa Homestay...... Kelapa Villas...... Hotel VillaOmbak...... H Rooms...... (see41) Good Heart...... Dream Village...... Dewi Sri...... Desa DuniaBeda...... Creatif Satu...... Blue Marlin...... (see6) 081 23785290;s/d On the

air-con 140,000/100,000Rp; a book exchange and laundry service. a bookexchange andlaundry service. tiled floors andacleanbathroom.Alsohas rooms aroundagarden,allwithtwo beds, rounded bybougainvillea and palms. ish rooms overlook asmall fish pond sur- down a quiet village very lane, these styl- nice seating. It’sonthemainstrip. nice seating. with private bathrooms andverandas with 75,000/125,000Rp; cooking available. spacious beachside plot.There’s goodhome well-built bungalowsscattered arounda ofA family-ownedplacewithtwoclasses off thebeach. along agorgeous narrowgarden.It’sjust and attractive woodenfurniture are ranged priced, tasteful bungalowswithlarge beds tiled roomsthatlookover agarden. Very andairy friendlylittleplacewithlight place haslarge, rooms. clean,acceptable and snorkel gear forhire. There’s alsopingpong,abookexchange withair-conranda; those have twobeds. handsome bamboo-framed bedsandave- in arowjustoffthebeach. Allroomshave a with fan75,000/85,000Rp,air-con120,000/150,000Rp; Trawangan Cottages Warna Lisa Homestay Puri Hondje Puri Beach WindBungalows Pondok Lita Creatif Satu Creatif Dewi Sri Dewi Sri ) Excellent-value, stylish, spaciousrooms 28 27 26 25 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 32 31 30 29 C2 A3 D2 C3 B3 D2 C3 D2 C2 D2 C2 A1 D3 B2 B2 A3 B1 D3 ( ( % % Boat Landing&Koperasi...... Tir NaNog...... Rudy's Pub...... Horizontal...... Café Wayan...... Tir NaNog...... (see43) Ryoshi...... Reccy LivingRoom...... Kayangan...... Horizontal...... (see 41) Blue Marlin...... (see6) Beach House...... (see12) Anna's...... Warna...... Villa Almarik...... Trawangan Cottages...... DRINKING EATING TRANSPORT 623859; r140,000Rp) 081 933145164;r60,000Rp&100,000Rp) (r 150,000Rp; a (r 80,000-100,000Rp) LOMBOK ••GiliIslands ( % ( % ) Right bythejetty,this Right 634861; rwithfan/air-con

081 339523364;r75,000Rp) a ( %

) a Well-kept rooms ( 623582; rwithout/with % ) Tucked away 081 23764347;s/d Fourwell- Nine good 36 35 34 33 39 38 37 41 40 44 43 42 513 D1 D3 D3 D2 D1 B1 D3 D3 D1 D3 D1 D1

NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA US$25; during thelow season. volcanic stone floortiles. Prices are flexible derful screened outdoor bathrooms,with or king-size beds,asafe, afridge andwon- lumbung-style bungalows, each with twin 380,000Rp; rooms sleep four.rooms sleep calming creams and beige. Thefamily around alush gardenand decorated in English-Indonesian couple,are grouped lows, ownedby a helpfulandwelcoming tuous detachedtwo-storey air-con bunga- sump- exceptional valueformoney,these fan/air-con 250,000/350,000Rp; out thefront. There’s awonderfulpoolanddecked area comes withhammocksandafrontterrace. Built fromnaturalmaterials, each room modern rooms,facingabeautifulgarden. the divingschool isthisrowof very stylish beach. backalittlefromthe Theplaceisset base. players, roomsmake these acomfortable ture) withmodcons,includingTV/DVD timber flooringandcoconut-wood furni- natural materials (logwoodbedframes, r withfan/air-con170,000/250,000Rp; Big Bubble Midrange with fan/air-conUS$22/30; Marlin dive school. andair-con, areTVs behindtheBlue set wardrobes anddesks,hotwater andbaths, the beach. ing garden.But,bestof all,you’re justoff Thehutsarelights. alongsideabloom- set ikat wallhangings,hotwater andreading huts have furniture, ceilings,rattan high attractiveing goodvalueformoney,these 514 comes withitsownchef. luxury, booktheprivate villawhich even and swankymodernbathrooms. Forreal rated; mosthave spaciousprivate terraces have designedanddeco- thoughtfully been hugethis baronthemainstrip,these rooms .com; r/f250,000/400,000Rp; tara.net.id; rUS$25,villaUS$125; Manta Manta Blue Marlin Martas Martas Tir NaNog Sama Bungalows Blue BeachCottages LOMBOK ••GiliIslands as ( as % ( ( % % ) Decentair-con rooms, all with 081 23722777;martas_trawangan@yahoo ( % 643649; www.manta-dive.com; r 625020; www.bigbubblediving.com; r ( ) % 639463; [email protected] Eight delightful modern delightful Eight 632424; www.diveindo.com; r

( % as

( % 623538; [email protected]; a a a 081 23763650;rwith ) ) a ) Right behindRight At therear of ) Representing Combining ) Represent- 500,000Rp; bar too. diving academy,arestaurant andabeach design. Ombakhasagreat pool,aspa, a superior roomsare more minimalistin do have real character, whilethestunning galows are notthatlarge forthe pricebut faux-traditional two-storey A-frame bun- partly shaded byyuccasandpalms.The tive resort occupiesaleafygardenplot south of themaindrag,thisvery attrac- .com; US$110plus21% tax; bathrooms. mod cons,andpebble-floored open-air A-frame have bungalows–these allthe beds, andacoupleof very stylishthatched superb-value budget rooms,each withlarge though, anditisisolatedthough, up here. open-air bathroom.The pool issmallish, bed, writing desk,sofa andback-to-nature classy furniture and boasts afour-poster decorated hasbeen with Trawangan. Each lows commandthe biggest wowfactor on solutely astonishingJavanese Joglobunga- own inthenorth of ab- theisland, these pipeline. a sparoomandsmallpoolare inthe restaurant,outdoor bathrooms.AnItalian chairs,and rattan fridges andgorgeous extremely wellfinished,withteak floors contemporary .com; r300,000-400,000Rp,villas2,500,000Rp; ombak.com; rUS$75-135plus21%tax; ombak.com; modestly sizedthough. andminibars. Theswimmingpoolis TVs room area andcontemporary bathrooms, ceilinged bungalowswithdining/living Villa Almarik Almarik Villa Top End r US$70-75; its ownpool). rear (andalsoafour-bedroom villawith There’s afreshwater plunge poolatthe mean thatthisplaceisbusyallyearround. gance of understated these modernrooms Competitive pricingandthe simpleele- lows 350,000-500,000Rp; US$150-410 plus 21%tax; Desa DuniaBeda Villas Kelapa Hotel Villa Ombak Villa Hotel Beach House Good Heart Village Dream Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com a as ) ( % ( A wonderfulnewplacewith % ( lumbung ( % 638520; www.almarik-lombok.com; 638520; www.almarik-lombok.com; % ) 081 22395170;r100,000Rp,bunga- Huge, airyhigh- light, ( % a 632424; www.kelapavillas.com; 642352; www.beachhousegilit 641575; www.desaduniabeda as as ) ( www.lonelyplanet.com A great choice with % bungalows,each ( % 642336; www.hotel ) ) Between the Between 081 8546591; Out ontheir as as ) Just )

Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com dinner) h lunch &dinner) carrot. cakes, including death-by-chocolate and Thai andIndofaves. Leave roomforthe papaya andchicken), and aswellpasta so thisisagreat venue (trythe forsalads h and campur (ricewithachoice of sidedishes) up amean very smallmenu.Itserves stew. and offers fromsushitoIrish everything world inTrawangan,which beliesits size It’s easytomunch yourwayaround the EATING bathrooms. andDVDplayers andfreshwaterTVs and allthecomfortsof home,including boast fullcatering facilities,private pools beautifullyfinishedluxury villasthese coasts, surroundedbycoconutgroves, www.lonelyplanet.com too). treatsEastern nextdooratthe‘Irishbar’ youcanalsoeatyour (though low tables onNippon-style at moderate pricesserved Authentic, super-fresh sushiandsashimi sirloin steaks. the usualIndonesiansuspectstochargrilled baguettes fromtasty in everything through beachside terraces andamenuthattakes dishes here are executed well. the inexpensive andIndonesian Chinese Blue Marlin mod-European food. eclectic, to-die-for menu of pan-Asian and thisplacehasan ing withmodish lighting, temporary designwhich seat- marries sexy noffi pie. and fishchips, and pudssuch asba- portions of comfortfoodlike Irishstew lunch &dinner) Western food, this place serves upsome ofthefinest fish Western food,this placeserves menus from37,000Rp; h Ryoshi Anna’s Beach House Tir Na Nog Café Wayan Café Other recommendations: Horizontal Kayangan Kayangan breakfast, lunch&dinner) breakfast, lunch&dinner) breakfast, lunch&dinner) ayam (). Tiny, friendlylittlewarungwitha (dishes 5000-8000Rp; ( (mains 9000-35,000Rp) Offering mainly (mains 9000-35,000Rp) Offering % Hygiene standards are Hygienestandards high, It maylookabitgrubby,but (dishes 7500-15,000Rp; ( (dishes 17,000-35,000Rp; ( % 639463; dishes17,000-48,000Rp,set % ( % 639248; dishes25,000-65,000Rp; 639463; dishes21,000-37,000Rp; 642352; dishes17,000-50,000Rp; h

Boasts oneof thebest breakfast, lunch&dinner) Idealforenormous Anachingly con- h breakfast, lunch& h h breakfast, breakfast, nasi

bar.com; 7am-4am Tue) tionably the region’s main attraction. But condition. here andin good isnarrow, butit’ssealed and inland villages. road Themaincoastal can goandexplore the shore, waterfalls of you however, road. Withaset wheels, itdetour from themain quent, nordoes fewer facilities. Publictransportisnotfre- riety of landscapes,few tourists andeven Lombok isremarkably beautiful,withava- The sparselypopulated northernpartof % &CENTRALLOMBOK NORTH hosts aterrificparty. Friday-night best locally-ownedplaceintown, andit Joko,thisbaris the Run bytheinimitable musical policy. Rudy’s Pub(Friday)hasamore eclectic techno, music,while trance andhouse andbeyond mixmadan). DJsfromBali go onuntil4amorso(exceptduringRa- partiesfirerotating uparound11pmand above inthepartystakes. Its itsweight Despite itssize,Trawanganpunches way DRINKING &ENTERTAINMENT LivingRoom Reccy Tuesday. nextdoor.taurant here Thebignight is and mealscanbeordered fromRyoshires- cer, andasuperbbeachside terrace. Snacks sport onabigscreen soc- andplaytable like mainroom,where youcancatch live ‘Irish bar’,itcombinesasociablebarn- table’ adayinadvance. Western foodsuchaslasagna. Orderthehousespecial‘rice thebeachthatoffers good place withberugaoverlooking streetside display. and seafoodinTrawangan–chooseyoursfromtheiced casional DJevents. full menu(see left coffees andoc- ), Italian (trytheraspberrymargarita), acocktails floors andlotsof Fantastic funkydetails. style, withluxe scarletlounges, decked lounge, it’sdecorated inacontemporary spots inTrawangan.Primarilya chill-out sophisticated vibethantheusualdrinking stretch of beach, thisplace offers amore Towering Gunung Rinjani is unques- Tir NaNog Rudy’s Pub 0370 Horizontal Horizontal LOMBOK •• North &Central Lombok LOMBOK ••North h 10am-2am) Knowntooneandallasthe

( ( h % (dishes 12,000-23,000Rp) Friendly (dishes12,000-23,000Rp)Friendly 8am-4am Fri, 8am-11pmSat-Thu)8am-4am Fri, 639463; ( % Adjacenttoagorgeous 639248; www.horizontal h 7am-2am Wed-Mon, 515

NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA from US$240,villas US$350plus21%tax; here. Trawangan can organise discounted rates Lombok Lombok’s mostluxurioushotel, theOberoi white-sand This peninsula hasaglorioussweeping SIRA and/or Anyar. may have toget connectionsinPemenang (Mataram) butyou toBayan, nal inBertais adaygofromMandalikaminibuses termi- publictransportislessfrequent.sal Several succession of cove beaches. Northof Bang- scenic, slalomingaroundthecontours of a to The roadfromSenggigi isvery Bangsal Bangsal toBayan handicrafts. ofand several themare knownfortheir Lombok are settlements, traditionalSasak fields andforest. Mostvillages incentral lush, andoffer rice scenicwalks through the southernslopesare wellwatered and if youdon’tattempteven theconeitself, Club is theLombokGolfKosaido Country to Bangsal, with sunken bathtubs. floors andastonishing garden-bathrooms commodious, with lashingsof marble, teak The villasandpavilions here are beyond Dive – 18-hole, 72 parcourseby thesea 516 Close by,signposted on theroadsouth Close 1,000,000/700,000Rp for the two-day Labuanbajo–Lombokjourney. 1,000,000/700,000Rp forthetwo-day rent charges forcabin/deck are triptoLabuanbajo,and 1,500,000/1,050,000Rpforthethree-day Perama (seeGiliTrawangan,Mataram orSenggigi details)are forcontact recommended. Cur- not onetoembarkuponwithsomedodgyset-up. especially duringtherainyseasonwhentripscanbecancelled–andthis journey iscertainly tugs withoutlifejackets orradio. ofIndonesiacanbeextremely hazardous, The seasinthispart tors have reneged on‘all-inclusive’ agreements dealsenroute, andothersoperate decrepit old crew andyourfellow travellers, whomyouare stuckwithfortheduration.Someshiftyopera- andPulaustops atRinca Moyo. alongtheway.FromLabuanbajoit’sasimilarstorybutusuallywith swimming andpartying onKomodo,andotherstopsforSatonda offthecoastofSumbawa,adragon-spottinghike bus journeysandnonentitytowns. atPulau insnorkelling TypicalitinerariesfromLomboktake get toseefarmore oftheregion’s coastlineanddodgesomeseriouslylengthy spectacular Travelling byseabetweenLombokandLabuanbajoisapopularwaytogetFlores, asyou BOAT LOMBOK&FLORES TOURSBETWEEN ( LOMBOK •• North &Central Lombok LOMBOK ••North For thesafety concernsmentionedabove, thewell-organised tours ondecentboatsrunby However, oftripisnoluxurycruise–alotdepends ontheboat, beaware thatthiskind % ( % ( % 640137; US$80 perround) 643649; www.manta-dive.com) 638444; www.oberoihotels.com; pavilions beach, somesnorkelling and , anattractive inGili as Manta ) . 90,000Rp) climbing head on,they are stillworth visit- Rinjani. Ifyou’ve notgot your volcano- points forclimbingGunung main starting ing views totheeastand south,are the one another alongaridge withsweep- picturesqueThese villages, merging into Batu Koq&Senaru old drum. and insidethemosque you’llfindahuge structure hasapagoda-like uppersection on asquare platform of river stones,the oldest inLombok,datingfrom1634. Built tobethe issaid on theroadtoLaloan, fine example,located 2kmeastof Bayan, also hassomevenerable birthplace of theWektuTelu religion and This northernmostpartof Lombokisthe BAYAN Pondok Pantai parts.Speaktotheownerstrails inthese of tonavigateA guideisuseful theconfusing AirTerjun, themostbeautifulof all. Gangga from here tootherwaterfalls, including Trailscontinuesive inthewetseason. 30m waterfall that’sonlyreally impres- trail headsinlandto Just northeastof Gondang village, a6km GONDANG &AROUND of Gondang. (dishes 9000Rpto22,000Rp),2km north thatched bungalowsandtip-topfood sian-run beachside withlovely guesthouse , awelcomingDutch- andIndone- ( % 081 23752632;bungalows50,000- Air Terjun Tiu Pupas , a www.lonelyplanet.com mosques. Onevery Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com www.info2lombok.com) leafy garden.The bungalows have verandas, detached bungalows situated overlooking a this place hasfourwell-constructed semi- Rinjani andthesurroundingarea. Definitely visit SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES Centre Trek Rinjani further 3kmuphill. is a andSenaru 3km southfromBayan, Koq isabout heads southtoRinjani.Batu are spread outalongasinglesteeproadthat The twovillages of KoqandSenaru Batu INFORMATION &ORIENTATION and dramaticwaterfalls. ing, asthere are somefinewalkingtrails www.lonelyplanet.com Senaru. Senaru. are to dotted alongtheroad fromBayan here places afan.Allthese youwon’tneed cold-water or solosmenhave basicroomsandshared built inrecent years, but mostof the dozen A few more roomshave comfortable been SLEEPING &EATING and waterfalls walk and waterfalls are(such a asPondokSenaru) be arranged most guesthouses through tobacco) andshow youaround. cals willinvite youtochew betel nut(or ditional village of take aguide(15,000Rp). attimes,soit’sagoodideato and tough you cangoswimming.Thetrackissteep Air Terjun, anotherwaterfall, where Tiu Kelep where are thecliffs toosteep. intotunnelsoccasionally disappearing canal thatfollowsthecontourof thehill, forest andpartlyalongsideanirrigation Thewalkispartlythrough from Senaru. of set a spectacular falls 20minutes’ walk sage (25,000Rp). and takes inlocallifestyles. lunch &dinner) Walk Panorama bemo rideback,andtheSenaru anda Sindang Gila,somestunningvistas At the southern end of Senaru village,At thesouthernendof Senaru Bukit Senaru Cottages Senaru Bukit Community tourismactivitiesthat can Six kilometres southof isthetra- Bayan A further50minutes orsoupthehill is Head forapost-hike toEmyCafé mas- (45,000Rp) mandis. As the climate iscooler Shortly before DusunSenaru, , which isledbyfemale guides Air Terjun SindangGila

hasgoodinformationon (RTC; (35,000Rp) , where lo- Dusun Senaru

% (r 40,000Rp; satellite 086812104132; , which includes rice terraces terraces rice h

(2000Rp) breakfast, , lunch &dinner) 086812104141; r150,000-300,000Rp; restaurant (dishes 7000Rpto18,000Rp). Western toilets.There’s parkingandagood cony andhave well-scrubbedshowers and ManyBayan. roomsshare acommunalbal- commodation intwoblocks3kmsouthof well-run, friendlyplacewithspaciousac- Sasak specials. Sasak dosimplefoodandsome Koq andSenaru, Bale Bayan a aminibarand superior roomshave aTV, digsintown.The but themostcomfortable cious, spotlessrooms–alittleoverpriced, 11,000Rp to21,000Rp) from itsrecommended restaurant (dishes withgreatBayan easterly viewsof thevalley fast, lunch&dinner) h clean, good-valuerooms. It’s3kmfromBayan. bemos gotoSenaru. (your driver willknowit),fromwhere Lombok, get off at thejunctionnearBayan you’re comingfrom, orgoingto,eastern 20minutesabout every until 4.30pm.If leave (4000Rp) AnyarforSenaru Bemos catch abustoAnyar(12,500Rp,2½hours). From Mandalika terminal inMataram, THERE&AWAYGETTING Emy Café Homestay Rinjani Anak Pondok Segara is the beautiful Sembalun Valley,is the beautiful Sembalun whose onthe easternHigh sideof Gunung Rinjani % Bumbung Lawang& Sembalun Sembalun garden. place hasrusticbungalowsandarestaurant inanice village,this fast, lunch&dinner)OppositeDusunSenaru style toilets. and bathroomsequippedwithWestern- dinner) s/d 80,000/100,000Rp; 35,000/40,000Rp; 7000Rp to25,000Rp). restaurant withWesternandIndonesianfood(dishes uphill,thisplacehasplain,cleanroomsanda further hot shower. &Restaurant Pondok Senaru Also worthconsidering: Pondok Indah & Restaurant &Restaurant Pondok Indah breakfast, lunch&dinner)Panoramic viewsandneat, 0376 LOMBOK •• North &Central Lombok LOMBOK ••North Galang Ijo andGalang (dishes 5000-12,500Rp; ( % Well set-up place4kmfrom Wellset-up h 081 75792943;r40,000Rp; , both midway between Batu Batu , bothmidwaybetween ( % breakfast, lunch&dinner)Alittle h (

% (dishes 5000-8000Rp; 081 75750889;s/d breakfast, lunch&dinner) 081 75754551;r40,000Rp;

and achoice of spa- h ( % breakfast, lunch& 081 75788018; h ( % h h breakfast, 622868, break- break-

517

A NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA people) is also arestaurant on site (dishes 8000Rp have less impressive volcano views. There style shower andtoilet;the cheaper rooms The more expensive rooms have Western- formation centre tofindthiswell-run place. rates includebreakfast and dinner. two basicrooms andshared bathroom; hour treks, includinganot-too-demandingfour- about hikinginthearea andcanarrange h 45,000Rp) herethe vistas are more impressive. Koq,but orBatu thanSenaru balun Lawang Accommodation ismore expensive inSem- SLEEPING &EATING camping gear560,000Rp) meals&all (per personfor2people,inclguide,porters, atthe The staff INFORMATION &ACTIVITIES treks. convenient fororganising placetostay Thelatter isthemore Lawang. Sembalun todifferentiate‘Bumbung’ isused itfrom It’s often referred tosimplyas‘Sembalun’; is asprawlingandrelatively wealthy village. andjustoffthemainroad, balun Lawang in October. the area’s maincrop,which isharvested bulbinthevillage isindicative of ofnung Rinjani.Thestatue anenormous main pointof departure fortreks upGu- Javanese. istheother Lawang Sembalun areinhabitants descendedfromtheHindu 518 centre totheirworkshops. Followthesignsfromvillage Lawang. to revive traditionalweaving inSembalun more of you. filled grasslands;costsdecrease ifthere are flower-Nasional GunungRinjani),through trek insideRinjani’sNationalPark (Taman 1km fromtheRIC. in shrubsandmedicinalherbs.It’s about bathrooms are inaramblinggardenrich set bung cottages withshared 160,000Rp) with shared bathroom60,000/80,000Rp, s/d130,000/ Losmen Lembah Rinjani Losmen Lembah Bale Galeng Bumbung,3kmsouthof Sem- Sembalun The RIChasalsohelpedlocalwomen Maria Guesthouse Maria 6am-6pm; Sembalun Lawang) 6am-6pm; Sembalun LOMBOK ••Sapit . Themore strenuous village walk These basic but serviceable basicbutserviceable These

Head downasideroad nearthein- (s/d withshared bathroom30,000/ Rinjani Information Centre Rinjani (per person100,000Rp,minimum2

(r 50,000Rp) is a delightful two-day is adelightful ( are wellinformed % Homestay with Homestay 081 803620918;s/d wildflower walk mandi-style lum-

(RIC; can be bought inblocksthemarket.can bebought the beautifullylush landscape,and‘baccy’ dinner). to 14,000Rp;openbreakfast, lunch and rooms with lycos.com; Sembalun Lawan;r120,000Rp) lycos.com; Sembalun bathroom 30,000/50,000Rp) homestay (following)fordirections.homestay and hot-water springsnearSapit.Ask either laparang kings. istheburialplaceof ancientSe- Selaparang keys. Makam FurthertowardsPringgabaya, spring-fed swimmingpool andsomemon- s 40,000-45,000Rp,d75,000-85,000Rp) Hati SuciHomestay Sleeping &Eating you toTaman Lemor SwelaandSapit, asideroadleads Between Sights drying with viewsacrosstoSumbawa. Tobacco- Rinjani, Sapit isatiny,very relaxed village On thesoutheastern slopesof Gunung % SAPIT duetolandslides. in thewetseason 100,000Rp. to charter anojek,orabemoforaround you’llhave andSenaru, Lawang Sembalun andBumbung. ups connectLawang (9000Rp).Hourlypick- Lawang Sembalun to Aikmel(8000Rp)andchange there for From Mandalika busterminal, take abus THERE&AWAYGETTING open breakfast, lunch anddinner). local foodhere (dishes6000Rpto17,000Rp; Youcanget good on theroadfromSenaru. Rinjani are Lawang 3kmbefore Sembalun spacious roomswithwonderfulviewsof Rinjani can beorganised here. have stunningviews of Sumbawa. Hikes to open breakfast, lunch and dinner)both and restaurant (dishes 8000Rpto18,000Rp; in afragrantgarden. Theaccommodation run placewithexcellent budget bungalows h Sembalun Nauli Sembalun You canalsovisitsomesmallwaterfalls Roads to Sembalun are sometimesclosed Roads toSembalun There’s nopublictransportbetween Balelangga B&B 0376 8am-4pm) Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com open (red–brick towers) loomabove , where there isarefreshing mandi-style shared bathroom

( ( % %

( (Lemor Park; admission 1500Rp; % 081 8362040;sembalunnauli@ 081 8545655;www.hatisuci.tk; Offers simple, clean www.lonelyplanet.com 22197; s/d withshared An efficiently Anefficiently These smart, These ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ὈὈὈὈὈὈ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ Sea), which isabout 6kmacrossatitswidest Sea), shaped lake, nesia. acobaltcrescent- Itscalderacontains inIndo- highest in Lombokandthesecond declared anationalparkin1997. reaches 3726m,anditsupperslopeswere rating experiences.Thegreat cone,which the peakisoneof Indonesia’smostexhila- forLombok’speople,whileclimbing tance of cultural(andclimatic)impor- immense Rinjanivolcanois the island,mighty Towering over theentire northern partof GUNUNG RINJANI Valleyfrom theSembalun inthenorth. (6000Rp). OccasionalbemosalsogotoSapit nal (13,000Rp)andthenabemotoSapit gabaya fromtheMandalika bustermi- To reach Sapit,first catch abustoPring- &Away There Getting the lowseason. during and dinner).It’ssometimesclosed 18,000Rp; mealsavailable breakfast, lunch and goodhomecooking(dishes 6000Rpto www.lonelyplanet.com GUNUNG RINJANI Gunung Rinjani is the highest mountain mountain Gunung Rinjaniisthehighest Buanmangge Marungmeriris Gunung (1916m) Gunung (1892m) Ketimunan (1602m) Bukit Protected Tanaklayur Danau Segara Anak(Childof the Danau Segara Forest Gunung (2664m) Sampurarung Gunung (2251m) Malang Pelawangan I Gunung (2037m) Camp Site (2641m)

To Bayan(4km) Crater Rim Senaru Pos I Segara Danau (1500m) Anak Pos III(2000m) Pos II Camp Site Shelter Sidonggala Air Tejun To Tetebatu (12km); Batu Koq Sesasot (20km) Gunung (2351m) (Hot Springs) Baru Senkereang Aiq Kalak Gunung (2919m) Torean the active of and,sadly, status GunungBaru taken aspartof anorganised trek, dueto andshouldtaken onlybeunder- lightly their ailmentsbybathinginthehotsprings. paying respect andcuring tothemountain lake –fullmoonis theirfavourite timefor make pilgrimages several ayeartothecrater ferings spirit.SomeSasaks tothemountain throw jewelleryintothelake andmake of- here. Inaceremony called make anannualpilgrimage many Balinese nung Agung ( p333 of thegods, and ), aseat itisequaltoGu- Rinjani. TotheBalinese, October 2004. active scarred peakerupted asrecently as dred years ago. Thisominouslygrey, highly jari), which onlyemerged acouple of hun- newer cone,GunungBaru(orBaru- rim, andrisingfromitswaters isaminor, Thelake is600mbelowthecraterdiseases. medicinal treatments, particularlyforskin locals take toblendwithherbsmake springs knownas ofpoint. Thecrater hasaseries naturalhot II (2700m) Pelawangan Camp Site To Laloan (4km) The climbtothecrater lake isnottobe Both the and Balinese revereSasaks (Summit; 3726m) Shelter (1800m) Pada Balong Gunung Rinjani Sungai Putih Shelter (1500m) Tengengean Shelter (1300m) Taman Nasional Gunung Rinjani Pemantuan LOMBOK ••GunungRinjani Sajang Kali Putih ᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲ (4km) To , whose waters, whose Air Kalak 0 0 To Sapit (6km) pekelan Mayung Putih Protected Bumbung Sembalun Forest Gunung Reserve Rinjani Sembalun , people , people Lawang Bukitbau Gunung (1668m) Gunung (1893m) 6 miles 10 km Adas

519 NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA 520 it’s onlyabout10minutes more tothe campsite, whichisonabare ridge. go straightontoLawang orcontinuealongtherimto campsite ofPelawangan II (2700m); Water canbefound downtheslopenearsign.Theto DanauSegaraAnak. trailforks here – aboutthreetakes hourstoreach thecrater rim(2639m).At therim, asignpointsthewayback walkalongthegrassyslopes. It’sthenasteepone-hour it and constantclimb;fromthelake 100m before veering right.The route slopeofthecrater, traverses and it’saneasy thenorthern besidethelast shelter forabout atthehotspringsandheadsawayfromlake The trail starts Day 3:HotSprings toPelawangan II(three tofourhours) backtoSenaru(see arranging transport p518 ). steps, thebestoptionistocomplete trek theRinjani bycontinuingtoSembalunLawang and to Senaruinoneday.Allowfive hoursfromthe rimdowntoSenaru.Instead ofretracing your itback earlytomake taxing–allowatleastthree hoursandstart back uptherimiscertainly butmostwhoarethe lake, returning toSenarufromhere day.The headback thenext climb be gathered fromaspring nearthehotsprings. spendtwonightsor even Somehikers more at ing butnotusedforshelter. The nicestcampsites are edge,andfresh atthelake’s water can to soaktheirwearybodiesandrecuperate. There are alsosomecaves nearby,whichare interest- edge.lake’s There are several places tocamp,butmostlocalsprefer tobenearthehotsprings the bottomofcrater wallit’s aneasy30-minute walkacrossundulatingterrain aroundthe The firsthourisaveryKalak). steep From rockclimbingin parts. descentand involves low-grade drawbacks: level sites are limited, there’s nowater anditcanbevery blustery. Set offvery earlyforthestunningsunrise. It’spossibletocampatPelawangan I,butthere are about1½hourstoreachFrom PosIII,ittakes therim,Pelawangan I,atanaltitudeof2641m. Day 2:PosIIItoSegara Anak & Hot Springs (fourhours) the dryseason.PosIIIisusualplacetocampatendoffirstday. two shelters indisrepair. Water is100m offthetrailtorightbutsometimesevaporates in it shouldbetreated orboiled. (1500m), where there’s ashelter. Water canbefound100mdowntheslopefromtrail,but NationalPark.Gunung Rinjani The widetrailclimbsforanother2½hoursuntilyou reach PosII climbs steadily throughscrubbyfarmlandforabouthalfanhourtothe signattheentranceto fee. The trail ontherightfork. Justbeyondtheposttrailforks–continuestraightahead At thesouthernendofvillageisRTC (PosI,601m),where youregister andpaythepark Day 1:Senaru toPosIII(4½ to five hours) isverywhen thetrailaroundlake dangerousduetothehazardoffallingrocks. and easytofollow. TrekAnother goodmapistheonefromRinjani Centre –itislarge, infullcolour,glossy TheseLawang, asthepathisindistinct. treks are map( outlinedontheGunungRinjani p519 ). due tosafety andsecurityconcerns,but aguideisessentialfromthehotspringstoSembalun isnotrecommended atanytime, Independenthiking from Senarutothecrater rimandback. atSenaruandfinishSembalunLawang,orastrenuous dash(described below)thatstart The are expeditions mostpopularwaystoclimbGunungRinjani thefour- hiking orfive-day CLIMBING GUNUNG RINJANI clouds rollin. theclimbat 3aminordertoreachclose. the summitintime forsunriseandbefore Start the stretchesGunung Rinjani inan arcabove thecampsite atPelawangan IIandlooksdeceptively Day 4:Pelawangan IItoRinjani Summit(five tosixhours return) LOMBOK •• Climbing Gunung Rinjan LOMBOK ••ClimbingGunungRinjan It takes abouttwohourstodescendDanauSegaraAnakandaroundthehotsprings(AiqIt takes Another 1½hours’steady walkuphillbringsyoutoPosIII(2000m),where there are another It’s to climb Rinjani during the rainy season, particularly after heavyrainfall, duringtherainyseason,particularly often notpossibletoclimbRinjani www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com

and twotogetbackdown. iteasyonthescree.but again,take three Intotalittakes hoursormore toreach thesummit, hour. The viewsfromthetopare trulymagnificentonaclearday.The descentismucheasier, of loose,fist-sized rocks–it’seasiertoscrambleonallfours. aboutan This cantake section above you. thepeak,realheading towardswhatlookslike loomsbehindandtowers summit ofRinjani Onceontheridge,it’sarelativelythat leadstoRinjani. easywalk uphill.After aboutanhour for this part ofthetrip. for thispart beforefollows theflankofRinjani swinging aroundtoLawangattheend.Aguide isessential a lonetree, therightforkand climbtherise. thetrailseemstofork;take Fromhere, thetrail Pemantuan. The trailcrossesmanybridges;atthefinalbridge,justbefore itclimbsuphillto shelter (1300m).Earlyintheseasonlonggrassobscures thetrailuntilabout30minutes beyond an houryouwillhitTengengean shelter (1500m);it’sthenanother30minutes toPemantuan out andcrossesundulatingtoflatgrasslandallthewaySembalunLawang. After about to reach thebottom. Balong andSembalunLawang. aroundtwohours Onceonthetrail,it’seasytofollow.Ittakes off toDanauSegaraAnakisasignposted rightturnleadingdowna subsidiary ridgetoPada camp site, trail.Acoupleofhundred headbackalongtheridge-crest metres pasttheturn- suremuch oftheheatdayaspossibleandmake youhave plentyofwater. Fromthe walkbacktothevillage.descent, it’salongandhotthree-hour Headoffearlytoavoidas After negotiatingthepeak,it’spossibletoreach Lawangthesameday.After atwo-hour Day 5:Pelawangan IItoSembalun Lawang(five tosixhours) „ „ „ „ „ „ Possible variationstotheroutes described above are outlinedhere: Variations Start trekking fromSembalun Lawang(aguide isessential),from where trekking six or seven ittakes Start Ifyoureach Pelawangan Iearlyintheday,consider asidetripfollowingthecrater rimaround For (almost)instantgratification(ifyoutravel lightandclimbfast)youcanreach thecrater Another popularroute, becausethetrailiswelldefinedand(ifyou’re experienced)canbe circuitthat Retrace yoursteps afive-day toSenaruafter climbingtothesummit,making upahefty10to11hours onthetrail).On Compress thelasttwodaysintoone(racking three-hour trekthree-hour uptheridge. hours toget toPelewangan walk totherimthanfrom Senaru,withonly a II.This isashorter aroundtwohours togettherewould take andback. the sea. It’snotaneasywalk,however, andthetrack isnarrowandvery exposedinplaces–it the rimwhere thestream towards from thehotspringsflowsoutofcrater andnortheast to theeastforabout 3kmtoGunungSenkereang (2919m).This pointoverlooks thegapin The return aboutfive takes hours. Armed withatorch, somemoonlightandaguide,setoff at midnighttoarrive forsunrise. rim fromSenaruinaboutsixhours. You’llgainanaltitudeofapproximately 2040min10km. eighttoninehours.final daytakes first nightisspentatPosIIIandthesecond atthehotsprings. The return toSenaruonthe The fromSenarutothehotspringsandback. hike trekked isathree-day withonlyaporter, includes anothernightatthehotsprings. plus sideit’sdownhillallthewayafter thehardclimbtosummit. The trailthengetssteeper andsteeper. About350mbefore thesummit,scree iscomposed about45minutesIt takes toclamberupasteep, trailtotheridge slipperyandindistinct At thebottomofridge(where you’llfindPada Balongshelter; 1800m),thetraillevels

LOMBOK ••ClimbingGunungRinjan

521 NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA Senaru ortheRIC Senaru gigi canfirst the contact Seng- Anyonepassingthrough Lawang. ( ( atripistoheadeither theRTCganise The bestandmostinexpensive waytoor- Treks Organised can stillget teed (well,almost)norainorcloud,butit to Augustistheonlytimeyouare guaran- for thefirst three months of theyear. June park officeusuallyforbidsaccesstoRinjani –thenational slides, isnotatalladvisable erously slippyandthere’s areal risk of land- to March), whenthetracksare often treach- (NovemberRinjani duringthewetseason onhikers attacks (see below ). Climbing therebecause have (very) been occasional of youthere are. than five. Thedealsare cheaper themore to fourhikers and 1,050,000Rpformore The four-day trek costs1,250,000Rpfortwo ters, parkfee andtransportback toSenaru. and includefood,equipment,guide, por- viathesummit Lawang naru toSembalun popular are four- orfive-day treks fromSe- prices)are(at thesame offered. Themost Rinjani Trek trek Club,thesame packages men, ordirectly attheRTC, theRICor a sliceof thehikingpie. tem sothatalllocaltrekking organisers get government, thecentres sys- arotation use office there. FundedbytheNewZealand 522 eastern side. onthe Lawang fromSembalun should start want thefastest summitclimb,however, theirtreksso moststart there. who Those % % Whether you book through yourlos- Whether youbookthrough fortrekkers, hasthebestservices Senaru WARNING GUNUNG RINJANI SECURITY tain security guards inside thecrater. you setout. that you seek safety advice locallybefore to beanisolated incident,werecommend inJuly 2005.Whilethisisbelievedattacked safety wasnotanissue untilagroupwas in2000,recentrobbery onRinjani years Although there were incidents ofarmed satellite 086812104132;www.info2lombok.com) 693202; [email protected]; Jl Raya Senggigi) JlRaya 693202; [email protected]; LOMBOK •• Gunung Rinjani LOMBOK ••GunungRinjani There are planstopostpolice andmoun- very coldatthesummit. ( h 6am-6pm) Rinjani Trek Club Trek Rinjani in Sembalun inSembalun

in

better to buymost supplies inMataram range food,or youcan take yourown. It’s Trek organisers atRTC andRIC canar- Food &Supplies per day. orintheRTCSenaru foraround 5000Rp in yourpartydo the same. rubbish outwith you andmake sure others the limited supplyof firewood. all Carry a headperdayforallyourequipment. from theRTC. topayabout 50,000Rp Expect canalsobehiredtorch butthese (flashlight), wet-weather gear, cooking equipmentanda solidfootwear,layersneed of warmclothing, can behired ateitherRTC orRIC.You’llalso before yourtrek. youstart Lawang RTC ortheRICinSembalun inSenaru Park is27,000Rp–register andpayatthe The entrancefee forthe RinjaniNational Entrance Fee &Equipment probably cigarettes aswell. food, water andtransportforthem, least oneporter. Youalsohave toprovide won’t carryanythingforyou,sotake at knowledgeable andinformative, butthey Guidesareare foryoursecurity. licensed asthey Lawang, andSembalun in Senaru guides andporters directly fromthecentres radio (10,000Rpperday).Contractyour pendently, butmake sure thatyoutake a and porters (80,000Rp)fromtheminde- you canhire guides(100,000Rpperday) trekking package withtheRTC ortheRIC, boxed text, left formore details. the andsafety concerns;see due tosecurity Hiking independentlyisnotrecommended, Guides &Porters (minimum of twopeople). ficial guidesfor1,600,000Rpperperson usingRTCabove viaSenaru andgoes of- package thatleaves fromanyof theplaces fices inallof locations,hasatrekking these ample, transport fromthepointof origin.Forex- outlinedabove,everything plusreturn all-inclusive treks. Pricesusually include andtheGiliIslandscanorganiseggigi Backpacks canbe leftatmostlosmenin Backpacks Take astove todeplete soyou don’tneed bagsandtentsSleeping are and essential If youdon’twanttodoanall-inclusive A numberof agencies inMataram, Sen- Perama (www.peramatour.com) www.lonelyplanet.com , withof- Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com public swimming pool, soit’s lessalluring. of thevillage. There’s a ‘Waterfall Rd’)of the ojekstopinthecentre ities onroadsnorthandeast(nicknamed ing thesurroundinghandicraftvillages. days’ hikingtonearbywaterfalls orvisit- Tetebatu makes forafew afinesetting for dryingtobacco,themajor crophere. The andnorthtoRinjani. bok, easttothesea and ricepaddiestowardssouthernLom- are magnificentviewsacrosstobaccofields ing thandownonthestickycoast.There to make theclimate more atad refresh- (400m) enough justhigh at anelevation nung Rinjani,isanattractive ruralretreat Tetebatu, nestlinginthelower slopesof Gu- % TETEBATU to thepointof originisusuallyincluded. chased atrekking package, transportback see wang toSenaru, p518 . Ifyou’ve pur- La- For transportoptionsfromSembalun &Away There Getting lighter. Takeable inSenaru. plentyof water anda more choice, butsomeprovisions are avail- where it’scheaperor Senggigi, andthere’s www.lonelyplanet.com (Otak Kokok Gading; admission 2000Rp) Kokok Gading; (Otak men). Alternatively, youcouldtake an aguidetofindthem(askatyourlos- need black monkeys andwaterfalls –youwill Taman Wisata Tetebatu road justnorthof themosqueheadsinto A shady4kmtrackleadingfrom the main Sights &Activities next to Salabuse Café. next toSalabuse the road. 2km walk fromthecarpark attheendof increase hairgrowth. Thefallsare asteep Jukut reputable guide(ask atyourlosmen). inagroup, walking, even the ricefieldsfromTetebatu.through If port oronalovely 1½-hourwalk(oneway) Both are accessibleonlybyprivate trans- Rinjani NationalPark are two from theturn-off. Tetebatu isquite spread out,withfacil- Northwest of Tetebatu, AirTerjun Joben Locals believe thatwaterLocals believe from On thesouthernslopesof Gunung 0376 open thatdotthelandscapeare used (Jeruk Manis, AirTemer; Manis, (Jeruk admission2000Rp)

(Monkey Forest) with wartel be suretohire a ismore of a ( h . waterfalls Air Terjun 9am-9pm) will ojek

70,000Rp) and Sasak meals. and Sasak Western, Indonesian cheap placeserving open breakfast, lunch anddinner). cuisine(dishes 7000Rpto18,000Rp; Sasak Indo tasty dow framesandserves nesian and has charming little about 1kmeastof theintersection, thisplace 17,500Rp; be more funky. tic charm. LosmenonWaterfall Rdtend to Most accommodationinTetebatu hasarus- Sleeping &Eating (7000Rp), which is onthe maineast–west gofrom MandalikaBuses toPomotong &Around There Getting breakfast, lunch anddinner). food (dishes 10,000Rpto28,000Rp;open loalandWestern a fairrestaurant serving infrequently cleaned, however. There’s also family home. Thelarge swimmingpoolis verandas) are scattered aroundarambling chalet-style cottages (withbalconiesand functional roomsandlovely two-storey soullessbut slightly the intersection, these rant lets. There isalsoasimpleroadsiderestau- that faceapretty gardenhave Western toi- choice. The tworowsof neat, spotlessrooms Just northof theintersection, thisisagood the steepnorth–southinclines. routes, which are farlesschallenging than particularly ifyoutrytostickeast–west Tetebatu are toexplore adelight bybike, per day.Thenarrowcountrylanesaround batu, aswellotherlosmen,for15,000Rp and dinner)here. 8000Rp to35,000Rp;openbreakfast, lunch east of theintersection. of thesurroundingregion. It’sabout 500m fast, lunch views anddinner)hassweeping (dishes 7000Rpto22,000Rp;open break- lounge octagonal andeating areaelevated mandis, facingapondandgarden.The tages, withbamboo wallsandshowers/ cottages 125,000Rp; 65,000Rp) Cendrawasih Cottages Cendrawasih Pondok Tetebatu Salabuse Café Bicycles canbe hired atPondokTete- Losmen Hakiki Wisma Soedjono

here offeringlocalfood(dishes tasty Withalovely aspectover ricefields, Fourgorgeous little h breakfast, lunch&dinner) ( % s ( % ( ( % lumbung LOMBOK ••Tetebatu % 018 0803737407;cottages50,000- )

081 75731143;dishes 6000- About 2kmnorthof 632572; s/d30,000/45,000Rp) 21309; r75,000-150,000Rp, ( % with yellowwin- 081 803726709;r lumbung cot-

Cheery, 523

NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA diah’s here, andthere’s aexcellenthomestay, niques. Afew silversmiths are alsobased andother toolsusingtraditionaltech-hoes blacksmithslage make youcansee knives, north of Inandaroundthevil- thehighway. rounded bypicturesque countryside, 3km and ceramicproduction. 1km east,isacentre forblack-claypottery posite themosque. with elegantminarets. There’s anATM op- afternoon, andanimposingnewmosque market, ahuge cattlemarket onMonday withadailymorningeast–west highway shops inbothvillages. from alocalblackclay.You’llfindwork- isknownforitspottery, made Rungkang Wednesday morning. smiths. There’s amarket onMondayand the area. It’sknownforitsskilledblack- Kotaraja,which isalsothetransporthubof the area. from Tetebatu tovisitthecraftvillages in It’s besttorent orcharter private transport % SOUTH OFTETEBATU 50,000Rp perday. Tetebatu, aswellotherlosmen,for cidomo (4000Rp)toTetebatu. taraja (2000Rp),thenan Fromtherehighway. take abemotoKo- 524 than therest of Lombok andmore sparsely class waves. The region isnoticeably drier coves thatcatch world- tooceanicexpanses best beaches, fromdramatic cliff-backed withtheisland’s South Lombok isblessed % SOUTH LOMBOK sarongs and throws. sarongs can watch theweavers inactionandbuy produced here feature coloured stripes.You weaving onsimple looms;thelocaltextiles inthevillage.knows theirhouse and allaboutlocalagriculture. Everyone traditions welcome andwillexplainSasak Sannah, whomake Western visitors very andhiswife,run byEnglish-speaker Radiah Lnag Nangka Lendang Masbagik Masbagik Loyokisnoted foritsfinebasketry and The nearest market town toTetebatu is Motorcycles canberented atPondok isacentre fortraditional Pringgasela 0376 0370 LOMBOK ••SouthofTetebatu ( % 0376631463; perpersoninclmeals50,000Rp) is alarge townonLombok’s is a Sasak village isaSasak sur- Masbagik Timur, which is Masbagik ojek (3000Rp)or Ra-

Hotel southern coastline. quil, relaxed forexploringtheterrific base namesakeantithesis of –atran- itsBalinese transport. Mostvisitors –the headforKuta populated, withlimited roadsandpublic cilities thatare infairshape. bemos cover thisroute. centre culture. for traditional Sasak Regular isa down toKuta The area fromSengkol &Sade Rembitan mately 2000Rp). willdrop youoff(faresKuta are approxi- or to thesouthcoast; anybemotoSengkol colour andhand burnished. The traditionalpottery isarich terracotta ous kitchen vessels anddecorative figurines. are andthere upto1mhigh, are alsovari- with thesimplestof techniques. Thepots gerabah pottery, madefromalocalclay Penujak iswellknownforitstraditional Penujak ( the weavers atwork. thevariousstylesof weavingto see andsee speakinorder want toputupwiththesales isty, commercialcraftshops, butyoumay The mainstreet here isgiven over totour- SUKARARA Around Praya 80,000Rp; town, isthetransporthubforregion. bemo terminal, onthenorthwestern sideof boosting thelocaleconomy.Meanwhile, the ternational by, airportshould openclose Sudirman, butby2008Lombok’snewin- cept perhapsacoupleof ATMs onJlJend much interest tovisitors here, ex- however, a few oldDutchbuildings.There’s nothingof spread outplace,withtree-lined streets and Praya isthesouth’smaintown.It’savery pop 35,000 Praya walk the2kmtoSukarara. hire acidomo (1500Rp) alongthemainroad.From there, in Flores. some comingfromSumbaandelsewhere h Penujak isonthemainroadfromPraya Just upfromthemarket, the To reach Sukarara,take abemotoPuyung 7am-6pm) ( % a 654319; JlUntungSurapati28;r50,000- ) hasthewidestrange of textiles, hasroomswithcold-water fa- (approximately 2500Rp)or www.lonelyplanet.com Darnia Setia Artshop Darnia Setia Dienda Hayu

www.lonelyplanet.com and Wednesday at7am. books. The localmarket fires up onSunday andrents Inn alsobuys,sells second-hand Corner InternetKuta cafénexttoMatahari tages, whichagency. isalsoapostal Indah Hotel Anak Cot- Kuta andSegare placeschangeSeveral money,including INFORMATION &ORIENTATION metic industryinthedryseason. forthecos- seaweed but localsalsoharvest very quiet. (August), butfortherest of theyearit’s right ) andduringthemaintouristseason Fishing Festival (inFebruary orMarch; see comesaliveKuta during theannual inBali. Beach ties thanthe(in)famousKuta withfar,farfewerbut undeveloped, facili- andthissuperbcoastisstill all materialise, sion of five-star , have these failedto sion of dramaticbite-shaped baysnearby. hotelswith somedelightful andasucces- the village hasalanguidcharm of itsown drawn here bytheworld-classwaves, but rugged hillsrisingaroundit. Surfers are stretch with of sea whiteandturquoise sand Lombok’s beachKuta isamagnificent Kuta connections to Senggigi andelsewhere. connections to Senggigi toMataramshuttle buses (75,000Rp) with AnakCottages, runs tourist atSegare based photos too. andexpecttopayfor 7000Rp isenough, by guidesatbothvillages –3000Rpto and village life. Donationsare ‘requested’ guides who’lltellhouses youaboutSasak extensively renovated. Ithasinformative ditional, picturesque village thathasbeen ings (albeitpainted bylocals). are stores Javanese-style selling tobeburiedhere.is said the foundingfathers of IslaminIndonesia grimage forLombok’sMuslims,asoneof thatched-roof mosquethat’saplace of pil- On topof thehillis cluster of thatched and houses villageSasak butstillboastsanauthentic ‘traditional’ sanitised road. It’saslightly There’s asmallwartel in town andthe Tourism dominates thelocaleconomy, Despite long-slated plansforasucces- A littlefurthersouthis andSade Rembitan On theroadbetween Rembitan is onahilljustwestof themain

Masjid Kuno,anancient Masjid Perama Sade, anothertra- batik paint- ( % lumbung. 654846) Nyale , also offers consistent surf. rate isanegotiable200,000Rp perday.Mawi aboat;thecurrentnearly allneed charter There are plentyof breaks furtherout,but entrance of Teluk Bay). (Gerupak Gerupak there are breaks several onthereefs atthe isthefishingvillageKuta of where Gerupak, out foraround50,000Rp.About 7kmeastof from shore, localboatmentotowyou use Tanjung Aan. As thewaves break alongway of and somemore Kuta, onthereefs eastof inthebayfront cluding ‘lefts’and‘rights’, Plenty of goodwaves break onthereefs, in- Surfing ing totheAshtari restaurant. wards, there’s anextremely steephilllead- east totheNovotel andPantai Segar. West- bicycles for20,000Rpaday.Pedal tothe MimpiManisThe guesthouse rents out Cycling ACTIVITIES Bangko (950,000Rp) areBangko organised. (240,000Rp) andBangko trips toGerupak fered (310,000Rp forfour hours), andday day), repairs are undertaken, lessons are of- Boards can berented here (30,000Rp per for swellforecasts, tips andinformation. [email protected]) road fromPrayahitstown. ther eastorwestof thejunctionwhere the gle roadthatrunsparalleltothebeach, ei- Surf Drop bythefriendly Kimen Virtually everything in Kuta ison asin- inKuta Virtually everything the rice harvest willalsobegood. the riceharvest Agoodcatchisasignthatiac properties. grilled, andare believed tohave aphrodis- and laughter. The nyaleare eaten rawor and chaseoneanotherwithlotsofnoise and girls sailouttosea–indifferent boats– procession, boyshave fun.Inacolourful after whichit’stimefortheteenagers to the firstnyale plets calledpantun.At day, dawnthenext competing witheachotherinrhymingcou- fires are builtandyoungpeoplesitaround When nightfalls,beach atKuta,Lombok. March –hundreds ofSasaksgatheronthe Sasak calendar–generallyFebruary or On the19thdayof10thmonthin FESTIVAL NYALE LOMBOK ••SouthLombok (wormlike fish)are(wormlike caught, , justwestof thejunction, ( % 655064;

525 NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA offer a free drop-off service. offer afree drop-offservice. 2km inlandfromthebeach, buttheowners plenty of It’s goodbookstoflickthrough. (dishes 9000-22,000Rp),adartsboard and andWesternhome-cooked food Balinese player.shower roomandTV/DVD There’s rooms andatwo-storey each witha house, withtwospotless, bright owned guesthouse tremely welcomingEnglish-and Balinese- .com; s50,000-90,000Rp,d65,000-105,000Rp) 526 and thePerama office. junction; it’salsohometoamoneychanger extra for. isaround800meastof Segare the lows are agooddealandworthpayingthe better days,butthenewerconcrete bunga- pretty garden, thebasichutshere have seen about 400meastof thejunction. rooms withverandas andbathrooms. It’s There are alsoacoupleof smallermodern viewsfromitsbalcony. cilities; onehassea fa- ments withlounges andself-catering deal, thisplacehastwogorgeous apart- 300m east ofthe junction. rooms, somewith hotwater,and acafé. Located about family-runplace offers clean,recentlyfriendly, renovated Segare AnakCottages Segare Budget or justbehindthebeach, exceptone. below. Allaccommodationisvirtuallyon Breakfast isincludedatalltheplaceslisted SLEEPING G’day Inn it’s very popular. 600m eastof thejunction.Book ahead,as beds, andsomewith sofas. The inn isabout rooms, each withhuge windowsandlarge orderly placewith five of classes modern and hardwoodfurniture. lows, each withtwodoublebeds,hotwater spanking-new spaciousconcrete bunga- and bathroomswithWestern toilets,and bamboo bungalowswithikatbedspreads 1km eastof thejunction.Ithasvery clean Looking good,thiswell-runplace isabout [email protected]; r50,000Rp,apt65,000Rp) 80,000/95,000Rp, withair-con200,000/250,000Rp; 500,000Rp; .com; rwithfan100,000-160,000Rp, withaircon180,000- [email protected]; r35,000-65,000Rp) [email protected]; Rinjani Bungalows Rinjani Melon Homestay Melon Manis Mimpi Also recommended: Surfers Inn Surfers LOMBOK ••SouthLombok ( as % 655432; s/d 40,000/60,000Rp)This ( % ( ) % Avery smart, stylish and

( 655582; www.lombok-surfersinn % 081 8369950;www.mimpimanis

( % 081 7367892;angela_granne ( % 654846; segareanakbungal 654849; s/dwithfan Overlooking a Overlooking A terrific An ex- a )

.wasantara.net.id; bungalowsUS$25-30; fast, lunch &dinner) delicious with atemptingtaurant menu,including of thejunction. thepool’snice.though It’sabout 400mwest are tired-looking, spaciousbutslightly cottages garden withaclippedlawn,these junction. palm trees, isgorgeous. It’sjustwestof the less, thegarden,shadedbybambooand reclining Buddhasandthelike. Neverthe- gaudy artefact overkill andanexcessof rooms, each somewhatfrom suffering themed hotel hasanarrayof baroque h much cleaner. 600m eastof thejunction.Roomscouldbe average bungalowsinexpansive grounds government-owned hotel with20distinctly there are warungsalongthe esplanade. In additiontothe placesreviewed below, EATING &DRINKING archeryeven classes. fishing, scubadivingand sailing, plethora of activitiesonoffer, including beach, andthere’s awonderfulspaand style villas.Thetwopoolsface a superb and furniture andlovely thatched Sasak- styled roomswithcoconut-wood flooring east of thejunctionhascontemporary- Lombok Top End Inn Matahari Lamancha with verandas;it’s500meastofthejunction. 30,000/40,000Rp) Hassimplethatched-roofbungalows Bungalows Ketapang 21% tax; .com; rwithout/withterraceUS$120/140,villas US$235plus .id; rUS$17-30; the junction. It also serves cocktails. cocktails. the junction. Italsoserves andcoconut). It’sjustwest ofwith and chilli) and urup(mixed vegetables Midrange showers; it’s400meastofthejunction. simple butspotlesssemidetachedhutswith r 180,000-550,000Rp; Tastura BeachResort Hotel Kuta Indah Family Cafe breakfast, lunch&dinner) Astari Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com as ( % sate pusut as (dishes 8000-22,000Rp; 655186; s/d40,000/50,000Rp)Four

) ( Thisattractive resort 3km Perched top on amountain % ( % ( % ) 655000; www.matahariinn.com; 655000; www.matahariinn.com; Set aroundawell-tended Set as ( ( 653748; mains6000-30,000Rp; % % 653333; www.novotel-lombok (served withcoconut (served ( % 653781; kutaindah@indonet 655194; s/d www.lonelyplanet.com Large thatched res- 655540; tastura@mataram ) ThisBalinese- as mandis and h ) Bland break- ( Indonesian food,including 30,000Rp; ocean rollers.ocean lowhump-backedta’s hillstothedistant ing backgammonandgazingoutover Ku- magazines,play- music, browsingthrough hours uphere daydreaming, enjoyingthe matches thecuisine,andit’seasyto lose there’s alwaysadailyspecialtoo. Theview sandwiches andcreatively mains; assembled that takes inwinsomebreakfasts, focaccia restaurant hasato-die-for healthymenu this remarkable, mainlyvegetarian lounge- 2km westof townontheroadtoMawan, www.lonelyplanet.com the first headland, within walking distance port, but it’smuch easierbymotorcycle. tuated byheadlands. There’s public trans- ofeast, passing aseries beautiful bayspunc- Quite goodroadstraverse thecoastto Around Kuta 35,000Rp aday. MimpiManishouse rents motorcyclesfor be chartered to nearby beaches. Theguest- Blanak (3000Rp),orcan and westtoSelong toAwangandTanjungKuta Aan (2500Rp), goeastoftion asyouenter Kuta.Bemos Ojeks congregate aroundthemainjunc- AROUND GETTING ortheGiliIslandstoKuta. ggigi for thePerama shuttle busoptionfromSen- places.Many atallthese buses peopleopt (2000Rp). You’llusuallyhave tochange (3000Rp)andfinallytoKuta to Sengkol you’ll have togoviaPraya(5000Rp), then port. FromMandalika terminal inMataram isahassletoreachKuta bypublictrans- THERE&AWAYGETTING sian food. Indone- Alsoserves and Saturdaynights. Come herelocalbandsmostFriday tosee This puboffers theonlynightlife intown. & dinner) 175,000Rp; restaurant isstrongonfish andseafood. thing more fancy,thisbeachside hotel looking placescores foritsfresh seafood. squid), andWestern disheslike omelettes. Ilalang isabout 2km east around Pantai Segar Empat Ikan Cafe LombokLounge Cafe Mascot Pub Mascot Right onthebeach, Right thisramshackle- h h (dishes 11,000-35,000Rp; breakfast, lunch&dinner) breakfast, lunch&dinner)

(dishes 12,000-38,000Rp; (Novotel Lombok;mains75,000-

( % 655542; dishes h Inexpensive breakfast, lunch cumi Forsome- h

11-2am) 12,000- a headland to descend toanother superb derfully expansive stretch of sand. reported here. so beextra careful. Sadly, theftshave been wave, butthere can beavery strongriptide, withalegendarysurfing stronghold barrel isanabsolutelyKuta, stunningbeach and motorcycle/car 2000/4000Rp), 16kmfrom a tinyvillage to get there. rice fieldsalong agrassyroadandpast todrivewilder –youwill need through beach below. backed bysteepgreen hillswithafinesandy is themostimpressive, abite-shaped bay (parking motorcycle/car2000/4000Rp) tofindthebeaches.detour slightly to soyou’llneed follow thecoastclosely, potholed andvery steepinplaces,doesn’t Theroad,whichand allbutdeserted. is Praya, butfornowitremains near-pristine when thenewairportiscompleted near this region bedeveloped mayeventually when conditionsare It’spossiblethat right. beachesstanding thatallhave superbsurf other not-so-secret surfspotsinthisbay. costs around120,000Rp)ortosomeof the a boatfromAwangacrossto Youcouldtake harvesting. line inseaweed to northeast justbefore Tanjung Aan andgo restaurant onthebeach. Alternatively, turn where there’s amarket on Tuesday anda the fishingvillage, andsurfer’s fave Gerupak beach. Theroadcontinuesanother2km to so, it’sbestnottobringvaluablesthe guard keeping aneyeontheplace–even problems withstealing, there’s asecurity white Duetoaspate powderysand. of Tanjung isavery finebeach withchalk- Aan ous white-sandbeaches. Continuing east, 2kmfurtheron,dividestwoglori- Kotak, of thetown.Theenormousrockof Batu From West of are Kuta asuccessionof out- to watchitforatip. not leave vehicles unattended –findalocal around aboutthelatest situationanddo aroundMawi.AskLombok, inparticular at knifepoint onthebackroadsofsouth Tourists have beenthreatened androbbed WARNING SOUTH LOMBOKSECURITY Awang, abusyfishing village withaside- Pengantap, the roadclimbs across LOMBOK ••SouthLombok Tampa Selong Blanak isanother won- Selong issimilarbutalittle (parking Mawi (acharter Ekas Mawan Mawan

527 NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA and aroundtheferry terminal. bathrooms. There are warungsinthetown with neatlittleroomsandspotless shared road, thisisvery cleanfamily-runplace 2.5km inlandfromtheporton the main terminal. Don’twalk; it’stoofar. have tocatch another bemototheferry off attheportentrance, fromwhere you’ll road alongtheeast coastwillonlydropyou Lombokbutjusttravelto Labuhan themain andbemos thatdon’tgodirectlygan’. Buses Kayangan’ or‘Tanjung‘Labuhan Kayan- Lombokisoftenfrom Labuhan marked Anyar. Note thatpublictransport toand Lombokto also headnorthfromLabuhan in Mataram (11,000Rp,twohours), and Lombok andMandalikaLabuhan terminal Frequent andbemostravel buses between Bus &Bemo THERE&AWAYGETTING ( only onedecentplace,LosmenLimaTiga nung Rinjani. placebuthasgreata scruffy viewsof Gu- Lombok, 3kmwestof theferry terminal, is to Sumbawa. Thetowncentre of Labuhan Kayangan, istheportforferries andboats Lombok,alsoknownasLabuhan Labuhan Labuhan Lombok withtheirowntransport. those becoming more accessible,particularlyto the once-remote southeastern peninsulais the-island tripisquite feasible. Similarly, eastern coastisinfairshape,andaround- Sumbawa, buttheroadaroundnorth- Lombok,theportforferries to is Labuhan All thatmosttravellers of theeastcoast see % LOMBOK EAST breathtaking scenery. very andwinding,butithas steep,rough and fineswimming.Theroadtoreach itis a sheltered baywithrelatively calmwater look outfortheturn-offwestto bay; followthisaroundforabout 1km,then 528 Sumbawa. Mataramfor bus connections between and Lombokand Sumbawa,and between p497 See p492 of fordetails ferry connections Ferry % Try toavoid overnight, staying asthere’s 0376 23316; Jl Raya Kayangan; r55,000Rp) Kayangan; 23316; JlRaya LOMBOK ••EastLombok . About Blongas, r 40,000Rp) charter aboatto Awang across thebay. tually reaches Jerowaru –it gets pretty buteven- rough worse. your wayandthe roadsgofrombadto transport; bewarned thatit’seasytolose eastern peninsula. yourown You’ll need road leadssouth to Just westof Keruakbuy woodcarvings. a a villagetraditional Sasak where youcan and continuespast theturn-offto to on stilts.Fromthere, theroadswings west ing portsandhaslotsof Bugis-stylehouses great viewsacrosstoSumbawa. owners. diving courses are offered by theinstructor and fundives (US$31perdive), andscuba- (dishes 7000Rpto26,000Rp),snorkelling and tworoomsinland.There’s goodfood onthe beach bungalowsright fortable beautifully peacefulplacewithclean,com- bungalows at is OKforswimming.Thebasic, isolated isabitgrubby,butthewaterblack sand most pointssouth. at for theregion isjusttothewestof Selong colonial buildings.Thetransport junction administrative district,hassomeDutch- of Lombok, thecapital theEast Selong South ofLabuhanLombok charter aboattotheuninhabited or fromfurthernorthatSugian,youcan of theharbour. Pandan, FromLabuhan the giantmahoganytrees about4kmnorth Obel. beaches alongtheway,particularlyat Obel near Anyar. There are isolated black-sand and becomesvery steepand windyasyou This roadhaslimited publictransport ofLabuhanLombok North .pondok-matahari.com; s/d90,000/120,000Rp) .pondok-matahari.com; Swiss-run Lombok,thedan, 15kmfromLabuhan ling, butnofacilities. white beaches andgoodcoralforsnorkel- and A sealed road branches road off westpastA sealed Luarisoneof Lombok’smainfish- Tanjung On thecoastis Lombok,lookoutfor Labuhan Leaving Just before thevillage of Pan- Labuhan Pancor, where youcancatch bemosto , where woodenboatsare built,Keruak Gili Pentangan. Bothislandshave lovely are almostonthebeach andhave Matahari Inn Matahari Melewi’s BeachHotel Melewi’s , from where you can Ekas Labuhan Haji,where the andthesouth- Jerowaru www.lonelyplanet.com ( % 081 23749915;www

( % , Sukaraja Gili Sulat isa 621241;

motorcycle. side it’sbesttocharter transport orrent a sotoexploreuncomfortable, thecountry- cross-islandroadare infrequent and served Hu’u. Transportconnectionsoff the well- there and are surfcampsatSekongkang lers venture here otherthanwave-seekers – stage inmostparts.Few Western travel- education isvery much atthedevelopment nic island,it’sapoorone,andhealth stretching alongitslength. lineoftain weathered volcanicstumps andamoun- tous hillsandangularbights, peninsulas, withacoastfringed byprecipi- is asprawlingislandof twisted andjutting andLombokcombined,Sumbawa than Bali rated fromeach byanarrowstrait.Larger large LombokandFlores, between sepa- landmassofThe rugged Sumbawa looms SUMBAWA onthePlanet Heaven part of sited Lombokisthespectacularly The onlyaccommodationinthisremote www.lonelyplanet.com 300,000-500,000Rp; ontheplanet.co.nz; basicchalets100,000-150,000Rp, villas from Awang(around120,000Rp). get themtopickyouup,orcharter aboat terrible, thehotel soit’sbesttocontact and and awell-stocked bar. here Theroad is facilities.Thereseiling are tworestaurants tivity junkies,withsurfing,divingandab- Tongos Jelenga To (15km) Lombok SUMBAWA Though SumbawaisanextremelyThough sce- Maluk Sekongkang Taliwang Jereweh Panjang Poto Tano Pulau Seteluk Alas

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Badas Lunyuk 081 23705393;www.heaven Pulau Medang Air Bari Lenangguar Sumbawa Besar Moyo Air Manis Pulau Moyo Plampang Lape Pekat Ngali Pulau Satonda Calabai Pulau Pulau Rakit Tambora Gunung (2850m) Empang Saleh Teluk of itintoconflict Lombokandthisbrought to Islam. by 1625,Sumbawa’srulers hadconverted gained controlof theislandbyforceand, pansionist Makassarese of states Sulawesi Islamic culturalinfluences,but theex- subjecttobothJavanesebeen Hinduand the17thcentury, SumbawahadBefore History bother totryhere. Butinremote parts island; Christianmissionaries didn’teven dialect. languages have considerablevariationin are of totheSasaks Lombok.Both closer of Flores, whilethewestern Sumbawans arenese more related closely tothepeople east. Thesquatter, darker-skinned Bima- cupied theTambora Peninsula andthe speakers,manese who independentlyoc- of theislandfromLombok,and Bi- speakers, whoprobablyreached thewest cally distinctpeoples:theSumbawanese linguistically and,tosomeextent, ethni- two dividedbetween Sumbawa isroughly Culture the riceisplanted. racesareand water buffalo also heldbefore bare-fisted boxing called asortoftraditional Sumbawanfighting, tions) thrive undertheveneer of Islam. (traditional indigenous andanimisttradi- Western Sumbawaheldswayover much Sumbawa isanoverwhelmingly Islamic During festivals you maycomeacross SEA FLORES Kore Sanggar Teluk Cempi Teluk Sungai Kilo Nae Pantai Lakey Hu'u Lambuwu Gunung (1618m) Parado Sampungu Dompu Simpasai SUMBAWA ••Culture Sila 0 0 Donggo Teluk Bima Wane Rontu Bima berempah. Horse Raba Tawali Waworada Gunung (1479m) Sangeang Daria Pulau Wawo Selat Sumba Sape Sangeang Waworada To Sumba (40km) Gunung (1950m) Teluk Api Teluk Sape To Flores 30 miles 50 km (70km) adat 529

NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA option at50,000Rp a day. cluding adriver. Motorcycles are acheaper 400,000Rp perday,excluding petrol,butin- or Lombokatabout thaninBali higher or Bima,butprices areSumbawa Besar everywhere. stop crossingthe island,aslocalbuses buses ononeof thelong-distance booking aseat transiting Sumbawa are much better off simply this roadasfareast asBima. Those Tenggaran linkallthe townson standards, of some of buses, themluxurious byNusa the wayandingenerally goodshape. Fleets to Sape(ontheeastcoast).It’ssurfaced all DompuandBima SumbawaBesar, through way fromTaliwang (nearthewestcoast) runsalltheSumbawa’s mainhighway Around Getting Newmount inMarch 2006. ploration campbelongingtomining giant fluence. Protestors destroyedaremote ex- degree of resentment againstWestern in- and hospi butyoumayencountertable, a Most Sumbawansare incredibly friendly Dangers &Annoyances andBima. Sumbawa Besar sultanates are thepalacesintownsof government. Theonly tracesof the old when theyare functionariesof thenational their descendantsholdofficialpowerjust dependence theirtitleswer under theDutch, butafter Indonesianin- keptsultans afairdegree of theirpower states thatmadeupwestern Sumbawa. The the prospectof thethree awarbetween other ethnicgroups. of Javanese, Makassarese, and Bugis,Sasaks regionsisland’s coastal have small numbers immigrants repopulated Sumbawa,andthe the atmosphere. mer’, duetotheamountof volcanicashin year wasknownas‘thewithoutasum- land. Allaroundtheglobe,following agricultural mately 2850manddevastated times, itreduced a4200mpeaktoapproxi- April eruptionsofthe mostcataclysmic modern in exploded 1815, killingtens of Oneof thousands. Sumbawa in Tambora Barely hadthewar duringthe18thcentury. with theBalinese 530 Car hire hotelsCar ispossiblethrough in topreventIn 1908theDutch intervened From themiddleof the19thcentury, SUMBAWA ••WestSumbawa s finishedwhenGunung e abolished;now TotangRaja Makan 50,000-75,000Rp; ity. , thespicyregional special- a Bugis stiltfishing community of just eight blow holeand adecent beach. Taliwang, resort isalocal sea with a cave/ covered inwater lilies. road near Taliwang, isquite apicture when Lebok Taliwang, alake tothePotoTano close Around Taliwang ofscent. Thesale alcohol isforbiddenhere. merchant classof Indonesians of Arabde- placewitha road.It’saconservative sealed south of PotoTano downagood,ifnarrow little more thananoversized village, 30km it’stheregionalThough capital, Taliwang is Taliwang (9000Rp,twohours). Besar wang (5000Rp,onehour)andSumbawa Taliwang orBimainclude theferry fare. fromMatarambuses toSumbawaBesar, Tano (12,500Rp,1½hours). Thethrough LombokandPoto Labuhan a day,between reason toloiter. from Lombok,butthere’s absolutely no Poto Tano isthemainportforferries to/ Poto Tano known asBima. Sumbawa; theeastern halfof theislandwas which fell undertheswayof of thesultan applied tothewestern halfof theisland, visitors. drawingjustatrickleofand Sekongkang populated, withtheoceanicrollers of Maluk This relatively aridregion isvery sparsely % WEST SUMBAWA dishes 6000-15,000Rp) two hours) andregular bemos. Maluk there are (7000Rp, twodailybuses (17,000Rp,three hours). Forbawa Besar 1.30pm), andaround 30adaygotoSum- Mataram (45,000Rp,sixhours, lastoneat Tano adayheadfor (5000Rp).Sixbuses and TVs. clean butbare roomsthathave bathtubs If you need abiteIf youneed toeat,head theferry alsomeet andgotoTali-Buses Ferries 45minutes, runevery 24hours At onetimethenameSumbawaonly Regular buses gofromTaliwangRegular buses toPoto 0372 AndiGraha Hotel a , where youcantuckinto ) hasvery spaciousand ( % ( % 81263; Jl Jendral Sudirman; 81263; JlJendral 81319; Jl Jendral Sudirman; 81319; JlJendral Poto Batu , 6kmfrom www.lonelyplanet.com Labuhan-balat, Rumah Rumah Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com Western and Indonesian faves (dishes inexpensive has a dartsboard and serves bathtubs withhotwater. Thebarnlike bar withgoodbeds and clean and comfortable around the edges. Theair-con options are where thefan-onlyrooms are pretty rough dation thatfrontsthebeach. reef breaks. offersBawah tworeliably consistent ‘right’ can give 100mrides;YoYo’s inSekongkang powerful ‘left’reef break nearMaluk that whereAtas, stop. somebuses 2kmdownhillfromSekongkang Bawah, mont mine. Thebeach isatSekongkang rollersto attractthehigh from theNew- upmarket accommodationoptionsgeared has afinesurfbeach andascattering of spread of outsettlement internet access. and Wartel Jaya justoffithas(pedestrian) a BNIbankwithATM Maluk, onJlRaya prospering andbustlinglittleplace. There’s since reverted totypeasaprovincial, if nearby gated private enclave. Maluk has and bars have nowshifted toTownside,a on Maluk whenitfirst opened, theexpats thishadahugegold, andthough impact about 4000workers, extractingcopperand since Islam.TheNewmontmineemploys land isthebiggest thingtohitSumbawa a wave of development. sive miningproject nearMaluk hasdriven number of visitors toatrickle,butmas- deep-blue waters. Itsisolationhadkept the has whiteframingturquoise-and- sand butpotholedroad.Thesuperbbeach sealed 30km southof Taliwang downa(mainly) A key surfingdestination, &Sekongkang Maluk (bungalows 35,000Rp) shore ‘left’ScarReef. at Jereweh, fromwhere itis6kmtothebeach 11km southover roadto agood sealed Taliwang; take atruckorbemohere. onaveryhouses pretty bay,is7kmfrom www.lonelyplanet.com Maluk Kiwi SLEEPING &EATING fan/air-con 85,000/200,000Rp; Of thefamoussurfspots,Supersuck isa Fifteen kilometres furthersouth,the The open-cutgoldmineabout 30kmin- From Taliwang, bemosand trucksrun , popularwithsurfers fortheoff- Jelenga ( % 635166; JlPasir Putih,r with Maluk; hasvery basicaccommo-

Jelenga BeachBungalows Jelenga a ) also Sekongkang Asurfers’ inn village is Maluk

Maluk; rinclbreakfast 180,000-432,000Rp; Maluk; four-poster beds. with qualitywoodenfurniture, somewith overpricedelegant, though –are kitted out place hasahuge pool.Therooms–quite 18,000Rp; r US$24-48; and dinner). 10,00Rp to32,000Rp;openbreakfast, lunch island. is just arest stop onthe journey across the reach. For mosttravellers, Sumbawa Besar be rewarding, to buttheycanbe difficult out toPulau Moyoortonearby villages can attractions except fortheoldpalace. Atrip their ownwith bemos, andthere are no where horsecarts resolutely provincial, unexceptionalplace of thewestern halfof theisland.It’sa ‘Sumbawa’ bylocals, istheprincipaltown often shortenedSumbawa Besar, tojust % SUMBAWA BESAR hours) at7amand8.30amdaily. (22,000Rp,7½ Maluk forSumbawaBesar cover leave theroute hourly.Two buses and Maluk (7000Rp,1½ hours), butbemos adaytravelTwo buses Taliwang between THERE&AWAYGETTING serves some Chinese andMexican someChinese dishes. serves ing clubsandwichesandsteaks, andit also bar-restaurant hasWestern food,includ- breakfast, lunch anddinner). pricey (mains30,000Rpto40,000Rp;open and minibars; therestaurant however, is andwardrobes,somehavelights sofas and nicelydesigned,withbigbeds,reading Allareby Sumbawanstandards. spotless fers of fourclasses rooms,quite excellent las US$125; rUS$60-95,vil- Sekongkang; .tropicalbeachresort.com; (grilled fish). updelicious Maluk thatserve cheap Padang foodandcoldbeer. h some even lackwindows.some even badly-run placehaspoor-value rooms– Rantung Hotel Trophy Hotel Masakan Padang Masakan Yo Resort There are plentyof warungsalongJlRaya Tropical Beach Resort &Spa Tropical BeachResort 0371 /pop55,000 breakfast, lunch&dinner) h s a SUMBAWA ••SumbawaBesar breakfast, lunch&dinner) (Sekongkang; dishes30,000-70,000Rp; (Sekongkang; ) ) On a fine sandy cove, Onafinesandy this Formerlyasurfcamp,this ( % ( % (Jl Raya Maluk, Maluk; meals8000- Maluk; Maluk, Raya (Jl 635119; fax 635130; Jl Raya Maluk, Maluk, 635119; fax635130;JlRaya called 081 23951899; Sekongkang; 081 23951899;Sekongkang; Thisexpensive beach benhur stillhold

( % Has good, as 289104; www

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Of- 531 NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA 532 0 500 m SUMBAWA BESAR 0 0.3 miles SUMBAWA ••SumbawaBesar 16 A B C D To Air Bari (15km) E F To Pelni & Labuhan Sumbawa (3km); Sumur Payung Terminal (5.5km); Karang DIma (5.5km); Laguna Biru Resort (8km); Badas (9km); Kencana Beach 11 Hotel (11km); Poto Tano (72km) 1 Jl Cendrawasih2 Jl Kebayan Jl Mangga Jl Gurami Supermarket Jl Manggis

Jl Garuda Jl Diponegoro

ti Police la Military Base Jl Yos Sudarso Station Me Jl 19 To Airport (500m); Jl Diponegoro 17 Main Post Office (1.5km); Jl Hasanuddin Jl Mawar Tourist Office (1.5km); 1 PHKA (4km) 9 Jl Kepiting 6 2 5 Jl Kamboja Jl Setiabudi Mosque Stadium 12 4 Sungai Brang 13

Bara oharjoPasar 18 Jl Dr Wahidin 7 Jl Urip Sum 14 Jl Setiabudi Jl Kartini 3 3 Jl Thamrin INFORMATION Jl Merdeka Bank Danamon...... 1 C2 New 10 BNI ATM...... 2 A1 Palace 8 Jl Dr Cipto BNI Bank...... 3 E3 Gaul Net Café...... 4 E2 Jl Batu Pasak Jl Sudirman Jl Batu Pasak

Sub-Post Office...... 5 D2 EATING Mosque www.lonelyplanet.com Jl Imam Bonjol Telkom...... 6 D2 Ikan Bakar 99...... 12 C2 Night Warungs...... 13 E2 SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES Sido Jadi...... 14 D3 Balai Kuning...... 7 E3 Jl Dr Sutomo Dalam Loka...... 8 E3 TRANSPORT Jl Kaharuddin 4 15 Brang Bara Bus Terminal...... 15 D4 To Poto (12km); SLEEPING Kaeki Motor...... 16 B1 Bima (220km) Hotel Dewi...... 9 B2 Merpati...... 17 D2 Hotel Harapan...... 10 F3 Seketeng Bemo Terminal...... 18 E3 Hotel Tambora...... 11 A1 Tiara Mas...... 19 C2 To Tegel (9km); Semongkat (30km); Batu Tering (30km) Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com expected. Again,their house. asmall donation is sultanate here. first totake Call alookin numerous artefacts fromthe daysof the mansion withyellowshutters. There are Jl DrWahidin) internationalcalls. place tomake centre. Main postoffice Main NetCafé Gaul BNI bank Bank Danamon Information are onlyabemoor the mainpostofficeortouristoffice,which navigable onfoot,exceptmaybefortripsto isfairlysmall,makingit Sumbawa Besar Orientation www.lonelyplanet.com live intheBalaiKuning towards theupkeep iscustomary. itis empty.Asmalldonation but otherwise Indonesiaandanoldpalanquin, in Bahasa Inside are afew illustrations,explanations who speakssomeEnglish, shouldshowup. Pasakwith intent onJlBatu thecaretaker, The premises are locked, but ifyouloiter beamsthat remain. nal pillars andcarved which provides shelter toafew of theorigi- structure withanignominioustin roof, quent renovation hasleftthisonce regal tion bythe1980s.Arathershoddy subse- block, haddeteriorated untilnearderelic- imposing palace,which covers anentire city Constructed in1885,theremains of this DALAM LOKA (SULTAN’S PALACE) Sights office Tourist Telkom office Sub-post office % bemo fromtheroundaboutonJlGaruda. a 4km southwestoftowninthevillageNijang;take totheisland.It’sabout and canoccasionallyoffer transport hasinformationaboutPulau Moyo national parkservice Perlindungan Hutan dan Konservasi Alam Perlindungan HutandanKonservasi advances. staff trytobehelpful,andbrochures are available. south ofthemainpostofficeonedgetown.The Mon-Thu, 100m to1pmSat)JustoffJlGaruda, to 11amFri, access here isnotquick. and anATM. There’s asecondATM toHotelTambora. next 8am-noonSat)Hascurrency exchange 2.30pm Mon-Fri, The descendants of now thesultans 23941; (Bank Negara Indonesia; Jl Kartini 10; (Bank NegaraIndonesia;JlKartini h , ahandsomeArt Deco–style ( (Jl Yos Sudarso; (Jl 8am-3pm Mon-Fri) Theofficeofthe 8am-3pm Mon-Fri)

(Jl Setiabudi 14;perhr11,000Rp) Setiabudi (Jl % (Jl Yos Sudarso)Thisisnearer thetown (Jl (Jl Diponegoro) Givescredit-card cash (Jl

(Jl Garuda) (Jl 23714; JlBungur1; benhur rideaway.

(Yellow House; (Yellow h 24hr) Thecheapest h 7am-2pm

% h (PHKA; (PHKA;

Internet 21101; 8am- special kepitang rebus (boiledcrab)and thehouse place toeatfresh includingtasty seafood, Still, there are usuallyvacancieshere. byoverheaddécor highlighted striplighting. lection of unlovable roomswithmismatched hotel withanimpressive lobby.Ithasase- ball soup). you’ll findsate sizzling and warungs infrontof where the stadium, favourites. offeringtaurant large portionsof Chinese Western-style). a private bathroom(shared facilitiesare somelack rooms,though but comfortable matsandgarish diversnese and hastatami west of town,thisplaceisgeared toJapa- 209,000Rp, d66,000-253,000Rp; 180,000-300,000Rp; Poto Tano roadkm11;bungalows90,000Rp,withair-con ern toiletsaroundacourtyard. roomswith half-decent 17,000Rp; 11km westof town. and Indonesianfoodintherestaurant. It’s on thebeach, Western abigpool,andtasty tion of goodtimberbungalows,manyright cove.place onaquiet,sandy There’s aselec- in thearea, thisisawell-runandenjoyable Ikan Bakar 99 Bakar Ikan Eating earlybuses. those with amosquenearbyaswake-up callfor Budget roomsproliferate onJlHasanuddin, prepared foraquantumdropinquality. If you’ve be comefromLombok orBali Sleeping 25,000/35,000Rp) bathroom 350,000/400,000Rp) telkom.net; PotoTano roadkm8;dwithshared/private restaurant here. have hotwater andair-con. There’s acheap but atleasttheyare goodvalue. The‘VIPs’ all withbizarre 1970s-stylefurnishings, placewith awarren ofRambling rooms, 25,000/35,000Rp, withair-con55,000-90,0000Rp; h Kencana BeachHotel Kencana For acheap feed make yourwayto the Hotel Dewi Hotel Laguna BiruResort Hotel Harapan Hotel Hotel TamboraHotel Sido Jadi breakfast, lunch&dinner) ikan bakar . h SUMBAWA ••SumbawaBesar breakfast, lunch&dinner) Afamily-runplacewithtiny, ( ( % % ( as % ( % 23065; JlHasanuddin;dishes9000- 22398; dishes12,000-32,000Rp; ( % 21170; JlHasanuddin60;s/d /fax 21555; Jl Kebayan; s45,000- /fax 21555;JlKebayan; ) 21629; JlDrCipto7;s/d Byfarthebestchoice Clean,popular res- (

% a Eight kilometres Eight mandis andWest- ( % 23777; laguna_biru@ ) Aonce-popular 22555; fax22439; (meat- Inexpensive a 533

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NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA (55,000Rp) throughout theday. (55,000Rp) throughout withoutair-conbuses leave forMataram is6000Rp. tax with connectionstoDenpasar. Departure take ayellow bemo (1000Rp)oran terminal andcrossthebridge. Alternatively, asyouexittheairport Turn toyourright which isonly500mfromHotel Tambora. It’s easytowalkintotownfromthe airport, TO/FROM THEAIRPORT Around Getting to Bimaleave fromthe somemorningbuses although the highway, Karang Dima, 5.5kmnorthwestof townon terminal istheSumurPayung terminal at bus mainlong-distance Sumbawa Besar’s BUS Poto Tano road. the fishingport,3kmwestof townonthe The Pelni Sumbawa, officeisatLabuhan withFlores,Badas Alor,Timor and Papua. Sampit, . The and monthenrouteevery toLombok,Bali, port of 9kmwestof Badas, SumbawaBesar, Pelni’s BOAT ( There are withMerpati aweek twoflights AIR &Away There Getting 534 1000Rp fortrips anywhere aroundtown. tively stress-free. and Bemos along JlHasanuddin,speedway are rela- The streets here, apart fromthebemo BEMO (2000Rp). at 12 hours, twodaily).Youcanbooktickets (180,000Rpincludingferries,pasar around 7amand10am);Den- four dailybetween (70,000Rp includingferry,hours, seven hours, very regularly until5pm);Mataram 7am and8pm);PotoTano (12,000Rp,two hours viaDompu,sixdailybetween seven necessary tocharter.necessary only oneortwo bemos daily; after thatit’s early, astherepublic bemos. Start are often there arevillages around SumbawaBesar, is infront of thepesar Kaharuddin) % bemoterminal The localSeketeng Tiara Mas 22002; JlYosSudarso16) SUMBAWA ••AroundSumbawaBesar Tilongkabila . Routes includeBima(45,000Rp, ( % 21241; JlYosSudarso). callsinatthesmall (market). For tripsto Brang BaraTerminal to/fromMataram, Tatamailau links benhur cost Cheaper (Jl Setiabudi) (Jl ojek (Jl

[email protected] motorcycle for40,000Rpaday. Tamora, whocanoften fixyouupwitha with adriver. atHotel Speaktothestaff Kijang is350,000Rpperday,or400,000Rp for two dives, including allgear. ( the LagunaBiru Resort tact is three hours byboatfrom AirBari. saltwater lake inthemiddleof theisland.It also hasgoodbeaches, snorkelling and a of PulauMoyoissmallSatonda prepared tocharter a boat.Justnortheast be foundallaround theislandifyouare two). Goodreefs withaplungingwallcan Manis, andTanjung Pasir (thebetter of the boats cantake youtosnorkelling spotsAir are having problemsfindingaboat.The island (3kmaway).Ask forPak ifyou Lahi about halfthat)tothesouthcoast of the per person (fishingboatsandoutriggers charterOtherwise, abemo. atthefarendofto AirBari, JlSudirman. around 7am.Theyleave from theturn-off times dailytonofixed schedule,at starting threeone hour)runtoAirBari orfour of SumbawaBesar. Publicbemos(5000Rp, which isonthecoastnorth head toAirBari, has goodinfoandamapof Moyo. If not, which ride withPHKA inSumbawaBesar, Moyo independentlyonadaytrip. resort. tovisit Itispossible,butdifficult, to onebasicoperationandindulgent megapodes. andbirdlifebarking deer, thatincludes Moyo isinhabited bywildcattleand pigs, mainly of of savannah withstands forest. to648m;itscentre Moyo rises iscomposed withcoralreefs teemingwithfish. reserve, isanaturejust northof SumbawaBesar, Most of Pulau Moyo,anislandoffthecoast MoyoPulau good idea–theywillarrange transport. you wanttohire alocalguide,which isa public transport.Ask atHotel Tambora if attractionsareAll these trickytoreach by AROUND SUMBAWABESAR Motor beki One of thefew placesoffering rental is Ka- CAR &MOTORCYCLES If youwant todive PulauMoyo,con- cost 60,000Rp speedboats From AirBari, For transport,youmaybeable tohitch a Accommodation ontheislandislimited ( % ), who runday tripsfor US$80 22710; Hotel Cirebon, Jl Kebayan 4) 22710; HotelCirebon, JlKebayan www.lonelyplanet.com % 23777; laguna Blue Mar- , which . A Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com but whataprice! (US$550return).from Bali Definitely nice, here too. Mostguestsarrive byseaplane in theMusicPavilion. There’s adive school gle cove abottleof orsavour massage’ wine have bathtubs.Pamper yourselfwitha‘jun- tents are lavish, theydon’t seriously though Princess DiandBillGates. The luxurious hideaway. Famous formerguestsinclude ern side,Amanwanaistheultimate island US$825/900 plus21%tax; .com; all-inclusivejungletentss/dUS$725/800,ocean have agood reason. theymay operators don’twanttogosea, from DecembertoMarch, soiftheboat coast. , offthenorthwest is aroundPulauMedang US$550 perperson. Someof thebestdiving trip toMoyofromLombokthatcosts Trawangan, operates afive-day live-aboard Amanwana Resort SLEEPING lin home toanumber of itbeingmade. football fieldand asktosee looms; headtothevillage acrossfromthe ikatisalsowovenBalinese-style onhand- ger boat)andancestorheadmotif.Modern ditional designsincludethe and 2kmfromthesmalltownof Moyo. Tra- in Some of thebestsongket are sarongs made Sights& Activities Other (per nightinclsimplemeals45,000Rp) in the stones are of tobe those the said year-old human figures, tobethe 2000- believed withlow-relief crocodile andagi, carved the forest. horses can behired toventure into higher interesting villages isTegel, fromwhere offer food andwater. overnight foradonation, buttake yourown villages –where itshouldbepossibletostay one atthesouthernendand others in are alsofourPHKA guardpostsonMoyo– takes youthere.Moyo withwhoever There of Moyo. Arrange thereturn journeyfrom A forestry worker offers basic The seas aroundMoyocanget turbulent The seas The hills south of Sumbawa Besar areThe hillssouth of Sumbawa Besar Near village, 12km east of Sumbawa Besar Poto village, 12kmeastof SumbawaBesar ( % possibilities.One of themore hiking 632424; www.diveindo.com) Batu Tering are megalithic sarcoph- tombs of ancient chiefs. Footprints

( % a traditional villages 22233; www.amanresorts ) OnMoyo’swest- , based inGili , based prahu (outrig- inthesouth bungalows and

trading linkswith VietnamandCambodia. lage thatindicate that theregion hadstrong ceramic potsina Pompeii-like buried vil- vulcanologists unearthed bronzebowlsand University Island andIndonesian of Rhode state of Tambora. In2004 investigations by eruption buriedthe entire populationof the p530 quiet.The ), butsincethenallhasbeen ern times,theeruptionof April1815(see of thegreatest volcanic explosionsof mod- ing intofellow climbers onthe summit. and away.Butatleastyouwon’tbe bump- the excruciatingbusjourneygetting there itisahardtwo-daytrip,andthere’sbecause Pancasila, butfew people make theclimb Sumbawa Besar. Guidescanbearranged in from from Dompuoranhourbyspeedboat which isfive hours byavery crowdedbus village of Pancasila nearthetownof Calabai, forascentsis the the western side:thebase Rinjani (Lombok).Itcanbeclimbed from lake, andthere are viewsas farasGunung atwo-coloured6km-wide calderacontains 2850m volcano Looming over central Sumbawaisthe Gunung Tambora Gunung Tambora. Its on thesouthcoast. so, exceptinHu’u,anattractive surfbeach longer or virtually no-onestays thananight region bound forKomodoandFlores, but distinct fromthewest. linguisticallyandculturallyalways been The contorted eastern halfof Sumbawa has % SUMBAWA EAST third-biggest town on theisland. There’s a independent states, Dompu is nowthe of one ofThe seat Sumbawa’s former Dompu without aguide. onimpossibletofind many forks.Itisnigh where roadwith itis6kmalongarough grea andthentheturn-offtofalls,from afurther8kmtoBran- Semamung through Takesouthern mountains. south theroad which are 4kmaway. a guideinthevillage tovisitthesarcophagi, Hire viaSemamung. from SumbawaBesar, Teringgods. Batu isabout 30kmbybemo Tambora’s peakwasobliterated inone A trickleof travellers this passthrough Air Belingisapretty waterfall inthe 0373 SUMBAWA ••EastSumbawa

535 NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA mada 536 with air-con60,000/80,000Rp; break over asharp,shallow reef. find conditionsintimidating asthewaves inexperiencedsurfersgust, though might tide. JuneandAu- Thebestsurfisbetween swimming isonlypossibleathigh though if you’ve nointerest inridingtherollers – makessand a great beach destinationeven stretch3km fromHu’u,andthesweeping of places are beach, nowgroupedonLakey attractive newandrenovatedpipe. Several Peakaround theworldtotake onLakey and surf culture, andwave addictscome from Beach Hu’u &Lakey ofHu’u isbestknownasastronghold a bemoortaxi. daily. Atothertimesyou’llhave tocharter Hu’u (7000Rp,1½hours) at7amand11am terminal onthesouthernsideof townfor Bima, passingbytheterminal at9pm. travel –several inconvoyfromdifficult (110,000Rp), butavailability canmake this ferry combinedticket toMataram through hours). Youcanalsoget anair-con busand (35,000Rp,fivehours) andSumbawaBesar (9000Rp, twohours), Sape(15,000Rp,four terminal, 2kmfromthecentre, toBima runfromGinte mainbusDaily buses THERE&AWAYGETTING (Bank NegaraIndonesia;JlNusantara; with few lingerers. streets, it’sjustastopover butotherwise colourful market itsback snaking through currently nointernet access in thearea. Dompu. There’s but a wartel atBalumba theATM rupiahwithyou oruse enough in ian dollars atpoorrates; it’s best tobring Most hotels will change USandAustral- INFORMATION 8.30am-noonSat) Mon-Fri, Rinjani dis. You’llenjoyyourmealat haveBathrooms Western toiletsand with attractive woodenbeds anddesks. plenty of really decent,spaciousrooms isjust5000Rp. posite themainmosquewhere aterrific a spotless,very orderlyrestaurant op- right Two buses leave localbusTwo buses theLepardi Money canbechanged atthe The besthotel isthehospitable SUMBAWA ••EastSumbawa ( % ( % 21417; Jl Gajah Mada 18;s/d40,000/50,000Rp, Mada 21417; JlGajah 21445; JlSudirman;mains5000-14,000Rp) , which hasanATM. a ) , which has Rumah Makan Makan Rumah h 7.30am-3pm Wisma Sa- BNI bank man- ,

nishings, verandas andsmartbathrooms. with direct views,tasteful bamboofur- sea tle detachedcottages ingrassy grounds,all plement US$10; s/d withfanUS$18/25,air-conUS$30/40,high-season sup- choices. and Western food, including vegetarian viewsandoffersfine sea Indonesian tasty rant (openbreakfast, lunch anddinner)has hot-water showers. The beachfront restau- and con roomsand bungalows withTVs Western-style bathrooms,andsmartair- butspotlessfan-onlyroomswith spartan opposite Peak.right Lakey Offers 10slightly grounds withplentyof tropicalgreenery and awartel. where andplaypingpong, youcanbuybeer but cold-water bathrooms.There’s astore the air-con bungalows allhave twobeds aroundagarden,while andset serviceable with simpleprivate bathroomsare perfectly nal take a bemo(1000Rp) in goodcondition. and The 43km roadfromDongu issealed THERE & AWAYGETTING con 100,000/150,000Rp; in theorderyoureach themfromDompu. Optionsareing ontheseason. listed below choices. Pricesdofluctuate alittledepend- areAman GatiandMonaLisa twogood Most placeshave theirownrestaurants – together adjacenttothemainsurfbreaks. accommodation ismostlywedgedLakey’s SLEEPING &EATING 110,000Rp) includebreakfast.Rates wasabouttoopenwhenwevisited.taurant bungalows withhotwater. Alarge newres- tion, fromsimpleroomstovery spacious choice of clean,good-value accommoda- with air-con90,000-100,000Rp; (open breakfast, lunch anddinner). are available, andthere’s agoodrestaurant in averdant garden.Safety depositboxes private economy optionswithoutsideshared or long-running choice with22rooms, from galow withair-con100,000-150,000Rp; AmanGati Hotel Any Lestari From Dompu’s Ginte main bus termi- Mona LisaBungalows Alamanda Bungalows Balumba Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com Anexcellentchoice, withdinkylit- to comfortable bungalowsmandi tocomfortable ( % as ( % 21682; s/d50,000/75,000Rp,withair- 21684; rwithfan60,000Rp,bun- ( ) % a Well-runplaceinlovely

623031; www.amangati.com; ) (r withfan35,000-50,000Rp, Thecheaper rooms www.lonelyplanet.com ( % a 623519; s/d90,000/ ) or Apopular, a benhur to ) Offers a Offers stood. connected withthetraditionalregion) still designwasintimately whose tional houses black clothes,andafew a few years ago,peoplestillwore distinctive tional village isMbawawhere, atleastuntil pear asadistinctgroup.Themost tradi- cultureBimanese andwillprobablydisap- of enthusiasm;they’re beingabsorbedinto the lastfew decades,withvaryingdegrees Christianity over theirtraditionalbeliefsin ing about20,000,they’ve adopted Islamand oforiginal inhabitants Sumbawa. Number- language andmaybedescendedfromthe lands speakanarchaic formof theBima People)(Mountain high- livinginthese andsuperbviews.The houses Dou Donggo Donggo. Thevillage hasafew traditional withthe be possibletostay Itmay roadupthemountain. on arough It is4kmalongagoodroad,andthen10km frequent runtothevillage buses of Donggo. From Sila,ontheDompu–Bimaroad,in- Donggo to Dongu,350,000RpBima). of thehotels canarrange (200,000Rp ataxi orany bus orinfrequent bemostoRasabau, Hu’u,there’sLeaving oneearly-morning fromBimaairport(around350,000Rp). taxi whysomanypeopletake a you’ll soonsee to thebeach (2000Rp). where you’ll have totake acrowdedbemo (5000Rp),from toRasabau quent buses (7000Rp, 1½hours). There are more fre- inthemorningasfar asHu’u (slow) buses ern outskirts,fromwhere there are two localterminal onthesouth- the Lepardi www.lonelyplanet.com diocre palace– – theformer sultan’s sight Islamic place with oneme- conservative were exported to Java. Today,Bima isa the 14th century foritssturdy horses, which ministrative centre. east, isthemuch more orderly butdullad- afewto get kilometres outsharpish.Raba, and frazzledinthedry.You’llwant season place thatbecomes mud-bound inthewet Sumbawa’s chief port, isagrubbyrun-down town intheeastern half of Sumbawa. Bima, Bima and together formthemajorRaba % &RABABIMA Try doingthiswithasurfboardand The Bima region known since hasbeen 0374 /pop70,000

uma leme(tradi- kepala desa in sedan chairs,sedan battleflags and weapons. Built of dustycurios, including aroyalcrown, calls. officeandhasthebestratesforinternational the tourist sion 5000Rp; Tropic IslandExpedition LancarJaya Travel Doro Parewa Makmur boat headingeast: erators maybeable tohookyouupwitha Rinca inLabuanbajo (Flores), op- butthese It’s besttoorganise tripsto Komodo and TRAVEL AGENCIES Dinas Pariwisata TOURIST INFORMATION Telkom office TELEPHONE postoffice Main POST BNI bank MONEY Komodo Explorer ACCESSINTERNET Information partly a museum The former homeof Bima’s rulers isnow SULTAN’S PALACE Sights further east. further toKomodoand 59) Localoutfitthatoperates regular trips staff. some English-speaking andPelniHelpful Merpati agentinthecentre oftownwith h is thelastATM before Ruteng. currency andtravellerscheques. Ifyou’re headingeast,this ter whatsomehustlers mayclaim. Flores nolonger stopsatKomodo,nomat- one thing:theferry Sumbawaand between Remember for adragon-spottingsession. Flores; theythenheadtoRincaorKomodo ifthey’re(or aflight lucky)toLabuanbajo in Jl Flores isworthawander. the though English-speaking staff here. English-speaking about 2kmfromBima. andhelpful There are somekeen BupatiinRaba, tothe Kantor information officeisnext h ishereVirtually everyone totake theferry 8am-2pm Mon-Fri) HasanATM8am-2pm Mon-Fri) andchangesforeign 7am-3pm Mon-Fri, to7amnoonSat) Thisvisitor 7am-3pm Mon-Fri, (BankNegaraIndonesia;JlSultanHasanuddin; h (night market)pasar malam(night on (Jl Soekarno Hatta; Soekarno (Jl 8am-5pm Mon-Sat) SUMBAWA ••Bima&Raba (Jl Sultan Hasanuddin)Alittlewayout. (Jl (

(Jl Sumbawa; perhr11,000Rp) (Jl % ( % (Jl Sultan Ibrahim; tourist admis- tourist SultanIbrahim; (Jl 44331; Jl Soekarno Hatta; 44331; JlSoekarno ( % 43737; JlSultanHasanuddin) ( % 43440; JlSumbawa16) 43666; Jl Martidinata 43666; JlMartidinata h withagrab-bag 24hr) Adjacentto

537 NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA 4; rwith fan&hot water50,000Rp, with air-con &hot you (s)leep. you (s)leep. August asindependence fever kicksin. is17 oftrack. Theheight theracing season as boysonhorses thunder aroundadusty ofa gaggle warungsandplentyof cheering the airportroad.There’s alarge grandstand, Panda 14km fromtownon horsestadium, (Maythe dryseason toOctober) attheDesa Sundaythroughout racingisheldevery Horse Activities the hillsoutsidetown. early Bimarulers; in thetombsstillstand chamber andphotosof thetombsof some restored.been Lookoutfortheroyalbed- disrepair bythelate 1950sbuthassince in 1927,thepalacehadfalleninto complete 538 grotty, insecure cheapies. the middleof town.There alsoafew very Bima iscompact, andmosthotels are in Sleeping 25,000/30,000Rp) To Pelni& Harbour (1.5km) 1 3 2 BIMA Hotel La’mbitu Hotel Losmen Puterasari Jl Pelabuhan SUMBAWA •• Bima & Raba SUMBAWA ••Bima&Raba Bus Agents...... Rumah MakanAnda...... Restaurant LilaGraha...... Lancar JayaSupermarket...... Losmen Puterasari...... Hotel LilaGraha...... Hotel La'mbitu...... Sultan's Palace(MuseumAsiBbojo)... Tropic IslandExpedition...... Travel LancarJaya...... (see9) Komodo Explorer...... Doro ParewaMakmur...... BNI Bank...... TRANSPORT EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION ua aa aa...... C2 Rumah MakanMawar...... AC Nofrills atall,solookbefore ( % 4

42222; fax42304; JlSumbawa (Jl Soekarno Hatta7; s/d Soekarno (Jl Jl Martadinata 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 C2 C3 C2 C1 C2 C2 C2 C2 A1 C2 C2 C1 B Jl Tongkol

Jl Sultan Kaharuddin Jl Sultan Salahuddin (Jl Pasar) Jl Flores 3 Jl Sumbawa Pasar 13 11

Jl Lombok water 75,000-105,000Rp; dishes thrown in. ,with afew Western and andChinese seafood in town. It serves the hotel of name,this isthebest thesame h Mawar Makan Rumah Eating 22,000Rp; 175,000Rp plus10%tax; 6; s/dwithfan60,000-100,000Rp,air-con 100,000- breakfast. includeasmall are andairy.Rates bright floorswell-appointed that roomsonseveral it gets inBima. There’s achoice of clean, a mighty fine a mighty good choice forIndonesian food,including phones andhotwater. of inthe newwinghave those twobeds, The economyroomsare poky,whilesome like hotel arrayof withastaggering rooms. mains 7000-19,000Rp; 8 Desa PandaHorseStadium(14km); 10 To BimaBusTerminal(100m); Airport (16km);Sape(40km); 0 0 Rumah Makan Anda Makan Rumah LilaGraha Hotel LilaGraha Restaurant 7 Sumbawa Besar(220km); breakfast, lunch &dinner) 12 2 6 Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com

h Jl Sulawesi Jl Mongonsidi 9 Field Jl SultanHasanuddin Sports Stand Dokar Palace New breakfast, lunch&dinner) 1 Jl SoekarnoHatta nasi campur.

Jl Sultan Ibrahim h ( % 5 a a breakfast, lunch&dinner) 42740; fax44705;JlLombok ( isalso worth alook, % ) ) Thisisasgood (Jl Sumbawa;mains8000- (Jl Abizarre warren- (Jl Sultan Kaharuddin; Sultan Kaharuddin; (Jl 42272; JlSulawesi28, Bus Terminal&Raba(2km) Office (2km);Kumbe Telkom (2km);Dinas Attachedto To Merpati(500m); D Pariwisata Tourist Office (1km) To MainPost 0.3 miles 500 m A and Lembar and Benoa theother. andBenoa and Lembar toLabuanbajo andSulawesioneway, goes TimorLarantuka, andPapau. monthly Timor toportsinWestPapua, whilethe els monthlyfromBimaviaMaumere and fast ferries leaving Bima. Jl Soekarno Hatta60) Jl Soekarno boards; alwaysphonetocheck first. Lombok andelsewhere willnotaccept surf- that someSumbawa-bound planesfrom Kupang mayresume inthefuture. Note toTambulakaonly. Services (Sumba)and toLabuanbajo leavesThe flight onMonday nections toMataram, EndeandMaumere. andregular to/fromDenpasar week con- 2) ets, sincethePelni office Travel agencies intowncanorganise tick- BOAT You canflytoBimawith AIR &Away There Getting Hasanuddin) the aislesat teresting shouldscout snacks.Self-caterers in- and thepasar(market) selling hasstalls www.lonelyplanet.com hours). (45,000Rp, seven and Sumbawa Besar Bima include Dompu(9000Rp, twohours) 6amand5pm. Destinations from between stop anywhere and everywhere. Theyrun that bysmallercrowded buses serviced and Jakarta. at 11amthenext morning,thenSurabaya Manybuses. arriving continuetoDenpasar, take about11hours. Tiara Mas hasthebest 118,000Rp forthe luxury,air-con that buses (withoutair-con) to for normalservices Fares toMataram range from78,000Rp too.but there are somedaytimeservices Lombok leave inconvoy(7pm to7.30pm), Kaharuddin. tan vance frombuscompanyofficeson JlSul- youcanbuyatickettown, though inad- KaharuddinJl Sultan from the centre of terminal isa10-minute walksouthalong to/fromthewest,Bimabus For mostbuses BUS isatBimaport.There are currently no Departure fromBimais6000Rp. tax Destinations in Sumbawa are mostly The majority of heading westto buses . Kelimutu Lancar JayaSupermarket , which hasfive a flights

connects Bimawith ( Tatamailau trav- % Merpati 42625; Jl Kesatria 42625; JlKesatria Tilongkabila ( %

(Jl Sultan (Jl 42697;

bouring impressive three-storey atneigh- houses morethe busonwaytoSape–andeven from –theycanbeseen just offthehighway examples atthe‘ traditional’ village of . There are umalengge tional houses, fine Sape, theWawoarea isnoted foritstradi- Bimaand between On themainhighway Around Bima person; 60,000Rp toBimaor350,000RpHu’u. Alternatively, arrivals,charging meet taxis there, mostwillbevery though crowded. front of theterminal andcatch apassingbus walk outtothemainroadabout100min way about17kmfromthecentre. Youcan pansbythehigh- The airportsitsamidsalt Around Getting though many of tohavethough thehustlers seem tion for being quite ahassle fortravellers, extensive pansnearby. Ithasareputa- salt andthefish drying underlocals’ houses by squid andcuttle- distinct odour caused tle portof witha tottering woodenhouses, Not apretty place, Sape isashamboliclit- % SAPE and costaround130,000Rp. a bemowhich willdotherunin1½hours don’t countonit.It’smuch safer tocharter Flores, which usuallyleaves alittlelate, but just make ittoSape forthe8amferry to 5pm. Ifyouleave at6amsharpyou (9000Rp, twohours) fromabout 6amuntil Hatta. leave Buses Kumbeterminal forSape Kaharuddinon JlSultan orJlSoekarno ride eastof Bima. Pickupayellowbemo a20-minute (1500Rp) bemo minal inRaba, Bima isthebest way toexplore thearea. is limited here andrenting amotorcycle in schooners are stillbuilt.Publictransport village of Sageang , 10kmnorthof Tawali, the active GunungApi(1950m).IntheBugis ery of riceterraces, gorges andviewsof Bima andincludessomeimpressive scen- around 60,000Rpperday. or oneof thetravel agencies; expecttopay yourhoteltry hiringamotorcyclethrough A bemoaroundtowncosts1000Rpper Buses easttoSapegofrom Kumbebuster-Buses The Weraregion extends northeastof As there are noofficialrental agencies, 0374 benhur are 2000Rp. . Sambori SUMBAWA ••Sape Maria may 539

, NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA Arema Makan nextdoorinthecleanRumah town. Eat ter thantheothersqualidoptionsin this clean rooms.It’snothingspecialbutfarbet- nexttotheportgatesis right andhastidy, standard 65,000Rp,withair-con100,000Rp; for brekkie. kare cated insideaclothesstore, which hasgood Losmen Mutiara port withafew brochures andmaps. about onehour before departure. 3pm. Tickets atthepier can be purchased Wednesday toMondayand onTuesdayat at Komodo. Ferries leave at 8amdaily toninehours)cycle, eight nolonger stop (27,000Rp perperson, 58,000Rppermotor- direction.right in Sapeshouldbe abletopointyouinthe p537 ), hotels andtravel agencies; anyone mation inBima are Dinas Pariwisata (see The mostreliable places togoforthisinfor- the latest schedules first inBimaandSape. –alwaysdouble-check rupt ferry services Regular breakdowns andheavy stormsdis- BOAT them. must charter theirvehicle toBima –ignore haveclaim buses stoppedrunningandyou toBima.through Taxi drivers willnodoubt alsorunstraight 20 minutes). Somebuses take abemotoBima(1500Rp, From Raba (9000Rp, twohours) untilaround5pm. leave bus. Buses halfhourforRaba every togetnecessary toBimafor anonward Lombok orBali. direct to usuallyexpressby buses, services The ferries arrivingatSapeare always met BUS &Around There Getting ( each otheralongthemainstreet after dark. think they’re CharltonHeston astheyrace pomed horses –andthedrivers obviously Roman chariots, drawnbyskinny,pom- thatdon’tlookverybuggies much like Tenggara.in tourismNusa moved daysduetothedownturn onthese 540 h Luckily, there’s onedecentplacetostay, The ferries runningtoLabuanbajo For mostdestinationsinSumbawa itis There’s a Sape hasanexcessof 8am-2pm Mon-Sat) (curry) andrustlesupafillingomelette KOMODO &RINCAISLANDS ( PHKA Komodo InformationOffice PHKA % ( 71015; dishes7000-12,000Rp) % 500minlandfromthe 71337; economyr25,000Rp, benhur –jingling a ) , which , lo- died inthelast twenty years. Dragons are (and killed)humans –twovillagers have as dragons have very occasionally attacked permitted to walkthemwithout aguide northwestern Flores. inhabit PulauPadar areas andcoastal of filmed thedragons in1956.Dragonsalso broadcaster David Attenborough, who Zoo Quest foraDragon bynaturalistand tobe,readfar offthebeaten track itused way here days,but tounderstand how these Park. Asteady stream of visitors make their off pointfortripstotheKomodo National Labuanbajo inFlores –themain jumping- it’snearestKomodo because totheportof parched lands. their familieswhoeke outalivinginthese than forthefew hundred fishermenand more formonstrousreptiles fittinghabitat theylookafar whirlpools. Fromthesea withriptidesandin Indonesia,fraught by someof themosttempestuous waters animals aslarge andbuffalo. asdeer upto100kgandfeed on in length,weigh known locallyas modo dragon.Theworld’slargest lizard, gargantuan reptiles – the legendary Ko- Flores andSumbawa,thatare hometo yet beautifulislands,sandwichedbetween Komodo and Rinca are hillyanddesolate ISLANDS KOMODO &RINCA Tuesday at9am. Monday andreturns fromWaikelo on in WestSumba. Itleaves Sapeat 5pmon Sape withWaikelo hours) (32,000Rp, seven shipwrecked. have hadtoswimshore even after being are notoriouslytreacherous –travellers aroundKomodo andtheseas seaworthy as manyof vessels are theSape-based not to Labuanbajo andsortoutaboatthere, modo, butit’samuch better ideatoget fu movies inside. fromthetopdeckandscreenmetal kung Though thereThough are hikingtrails, it’snot Rinca receives justasmanyvisitors as isolated islandsareThese surrounded There is also a ferry service connecting There isalsoaferry service It ispossibletocharter aboattoKo- The rusty,ancientferries blare out Indo ora, itcanreach over 3m www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com s i h T KomodoNationalPark Visiting the kitchens atthevisitorcamps. there’s around usuallyoneortwosniffing have anextremely of keen smelland sense dragons whichever islandyouvisit,asthey goat’s throat. could snapyourlegasfastthey’ll cuta a docilebunch forthemostpart,butthey 25,000Rp. a big stick.A camera permit isanother the islands’ floraandfauna. And theycarry English and are very knowledgeable about datory and very asallspeak some useful, both Komodoand Rinca. rival byrangers, buy athree-day permitfor US$7.50 forunder 16s),collected onar- fee (US$15foradultsand conservation reefs, mangroves andseas. and theirincredibly rich surroundingcoral neighbouring islands,Rinca andseveral World Heritage site, Komodo, encompasses KOMODO &RINCAISLANDS You’re pretty much guaranteedtosee Hiring aguide(30,000Rp) isbothman- The 40,000Rppark entrancefee andthe Langkoi Pulau Banta Gili national park Torolangki Tanjung Selat Sape Tala Pulau Sumba Komodo National Selat (520m) Lankai Park Doro Tanjung (655m) Gunung Ara Komodo Gunung (www.komodonationalpark.org) Beru Tala Pulau (538m)

Logo Teluk Loh Wau Kampung Satalibo Gunung Komodo (735m) Komodo Pulau Pulau Lasa Lintah Gili Lawa Selat Crystal Rock Loh Liang Teluk Nggulung Punya Pulau Banu Pantai Merah Poreng Valley Loh Sebita Nusa Kode , a Lawadarat Padar Pulau Pulau Full Moon Balong Kerbau Lawalaut Batu Teluk Pulau Tatawa Dasampi Pulau Doro Ora century byoneof inSumbawa. thesultans of convictsexiledtotheisland inthe19th areThe inhabitants tobedescendants said that’s fullof goats,chickens andchildren. friendly MuslimBugis village of stilthouses Komodo.It’sa the fishingvillage of Kampung withthePHKAganised officelocated here. Various treks around theislandcanbeor- by PHKA, isontheeastcoastof theisland. The accommodationcampof LohLiang,run largest of theislandsinnational park. rustyreddeep formostof theyear,is frazzled bythesunanddryingwinds toa Rugged Komodo,itsgulley-ridden hillsides KOMODO Nggulung, a dry river bed about a half-hour adry riverNggulung, bedabout ahalf-hour You’re dragons allyear atBanu likely tosee DRAGON SPOTTING Activities between AprilandSeptember.between are theseas common. However, calmest Tenggara,Nusa andheavy rainsare not (670m) Gili KOMODO &RINCAISLANDS••Komodo A half-hour walksouthof Loh Liangis A half-hour Komodo isoneof thedriestcorners of Loh Kima Pulau Rinca F LORESA Loh Buaya Loh Tongker Kima Teluk Loh Baru Kampung Sebayur Pulau Loh Karora Kampung Baru Teluk Doro Raja (340m) Molo Selat Kampung Rinca 0 0 Kanawa Pulau Sabolo Besar Pulau Motong Bidadari Gili Pulau Pungu Pulau Pulau Bajo Flores Pulau Kukusan Serayu Pulau Besar Pulau Batugosok Labuanbajo 6 miles

Waecicu 10 km

541 NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA on some of theother walks, andafew ‘pen- Itispossible to spot dragons not essential. Atelephoto lens ishandybut ‘cheese’. say to walk up tothedragons andhave them fenced offfromthe dragons –don’texpect bed where thedragons gather. Spectators are turning up. since thefeeding stoppedfewer dragons are stillattractsdragons,but Nggulung Banu when thePHKA wantstodoahead count. past, anddragons are nowonlyfed here ing of goatstodragonsisathingof the walk fromLoh Liang.Theorganised feed- 542 A little ‘grandstand’ overlooksA little‘grandstand’ the river the the numerouswildpigsonisland –andforotherreasons nottoohardtoimagine! Today and asmallnumber(around50)onthewestcoastofFlores.Komodo, perhaps1100onRinca mystery, asiswhymalesoutnumber females byaratioof3.4toone. Around1300 sensitivelizards, ifnotexactly andnewage. WhytheyexistonlyonandaroundKomodo is a months. She thenprotects hercache forthree monthsfrompredators. The incubationperiodisnine 200g. The female lays15to30eggsatatimeandoften buriesthem inthewallofadryriver. until theyare 1minlength. small in.Maturetwo weeksforabuffalotodie–before dragonsare tucking alsocannibalistic,and and waitforthepotent effect bacteria theirmouthscontaintotake –waitingaroundforup to swallow prey aslarge asagoat.Totackleeven biggerprey, bite theyambushtheirvictim, it wild pigandwater buffalo. largeron insects, onesonfrogs andbirds,the teeth anddagger-sharp severe claws,whichcaninflict wounds. adversary.well-aimed blowsthatwillknockdownaweaker Their bestweaponsare theirsharp ponent. Komodosoften andthetailcandeliver riseupontheirhindlegsjustbefore attacking or water. They are dangerousifdriven intoacornerandwillthenattackeven amuchlarger op- threatened refuge they’lltake intheirnormalresting places–holes,trees (forthesmaller ones) scales; somemaybespiny,othersraisedandbony. also beusedforgraspingorasapotent weapon).The bodyiscovered insmall,non-overlapping asruddersbutcan legs(each toes)andlong,thicktails(whichfunction withfive-clawed powerful Butthedragonsalsohaveeyelids androundpupils,thejawsare massive bodies, powerful. the headistapered, theearopeningsare visible, theneckislongandslender,eyeshave published description. toJava,resulting taken was in1910;twoofthedragonswere inthefirst shotandtheirskins the ChinesedragonisbasedonKomodolizard.The firstDutchexpeditiontotheisland lizards withenormousclaws,fearsome teeth andfieryyellowtongues. Onetheoryholdsthat in theWest.Fishers inthearea andpearldivers hadbroughtbacktalesof ferocious working There were rumours oftheseawesomecreatures longbefore theirexistence wasconfirmed DRAGONS KOMODO KOMODO &RINCAISLANDS••Komodo The villagers oftheregion have never hunted Komodos,astheyweren’t asgoodtoeat as Komodo dragonsare not relics ofthedinosaurage; they’re versatile, remarkably hardymodern allthemonitors,oraOf laysthelargest eggs–around90mmlongandweighing Komodos have avery senseofsmell.Allmonitorsfeed keen onotheranimals–smallones distances,liftingtheir tailsastheyrun.WhenThe dragons’legsallowthemtosprintshort The amonitorlizard.Allmonitorshave Komododragonisactually somethingsincommon: ora isaprotected species. ora live thefirstfive yearsoftheirlives upintrees forsafety, notmoving togroundlevel Ora canexpandtheirmouthcavityconsiderably,enablingthemto seen aroundthecamplooking forfood. seen sioner’ dragons(andlazyones)can often be is another favourite dragon haunt andhas top. Poreng Valley, 5.5km fromLoh Liang, slim, but there are expansive views fromthe return. Thechances adragon are of seeing to Gunung Ara(538m), around 3½hours must hire aguidetoaccompany them. a numberof otherhikes onoffer. Allhikers butKomodohas Nggulung, only visitBanu at Komodoand Most visitors onenight stay HIKING ora (thelocalnameforthedragon)ondeer, Walks fromLoh Liang includetheclimb www.lonelyplanet.com ora live on Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com son per night45,000Rp) orange-footed scrubfowl. eaters,fish eagles,bee megapodesandthe boar. Bird life includesspangleddrongos, Timor horses wild oreven deer, buffaloes, counter macaques,wildwater long-tailed abundant thanon Komodo,youmayen- trap smallbirds. As wildlife ismuch more reach 15cmacross andare to strongenough huge websof the nephiliaspider,which can ravagedbeen bytermites, and perhapsthe guard forthree months), cacti thathave whichburrows tolaytheireggs, they then you dragonnests(thefemales dighuge Komodos sunthemselves. They’ll show so easy,buttheguidesknowspots where Buaya. Findingdragonsinthebushisnot tors onthefringes of thecampatLoh on Rinca,butthere are often afew moni- circular hikes canbeorganised. four-hour withthestamina, But forthose or soexploringthearea tothecamp. close furnace-hot, mostpeopleoptfor anhour Rinca. As temperatures be willinevitably ticket ifyou’re heading to Komodo. their wildlife. Again, keep theentrance material inthecampabout theislandsand lows andacafé.There’s plentyof interesting tion centre, guides’office,woodenbunga- Buaya, which hasaticket officeandinforma- a five-minute walktothePHKA campat probably findadragonortwolurking.It’s sheltered dockof Koh Kima, where you’ll nearer toLabuanbajo. Boatsarrive atthe smallerthanKomodobut Rinca isslightly RINCA nearKampung Komodo.Pulau Lasa Merah andthesmall islandof (RedBeach) Good snorkelling can befoundatPantai boat rental is225,000Rpforfourpeople. Liang; equipmentcostsabout50,000Rpand Snorkelling canbearranged fromLoh SNORKELLING wild boarandsomeof Komodo’sbirdlife. plenty of otherwildlife, such asbuffaloes, Even ifyoudonotspotdragons,there’s thetrailcontinuestoLohNggulung; Sebita. a more out-in-the-wildfeeling thanBanu www.lonelyplanet.com Both Komodo andRinca Sleeping &Eating There are dragon-feeding noset places guided walksare offeredSeveral across have large wooden cabins FLORES PHKA camps PHKA (per per- Loh around 1,200,000Rp foruptosixpeople. trip. Two-daycharter boatrates beginat island isprobably better suited toa longer journey takes about fourhours each waythe 600,000Rp fromLabuanbajo, butasthe vessel hasaradioandlife jackets. with,rememberyou sail tocheck thatthe that canaccommodate 10people. Whoever well-organised triponatwin-engined boat ( Rudy will cutoutthecommission.Captain directlyto captains attheharbour,which your hotel oranagency, speaking orstart snorkelling spots.Youcanbookthrough journey totheislandandthenreturn via usually leave atabout8amfor thetwo-hour Labuanbajo, dependingon thevessel. Boats 225,000Rp and600,000Rpreturn from boats here are barely seaworthy. modo, butbeextremely cautious,asmany from Sape(see p540 ) inSumbawatoKo- and Rinca. Itispossibletocharter boats is themainjumping-offpointforKomodo for theprosandconsof such trips. ortwo.for anight theboxed See text, p516 , Lombok andFlores stopatKomodo –these lar waystoarrive isonaboat tourbetween some sortof charter. Oneof themostpopu- years now,sotheonlywayhereseveral isby bajo have stoppingatKomodo for notbeen Ferries travelling SapeandLabuan- between &Away There Getting simple meals,plusdrinks. ited menuof nasi/ , fish andother accommodated. mattresses is willberustledup so everyone August –theroomsmaybefull,butextra –aroundJuly- ing thepeaktouristseason mattresses, asittingarea anda roomswithwell-weathered spartan tains cabincon- on stiltswithbalconies.Each length of this verdant island,provoking a its destiny. A chain of conesstretches the canic topography thathas longed shaped ably beautiful island, Flores hasavol- andremark-A fascinating, mountainous FLORES % Komodo day trips start ataroundKomodo daytripsstart Chartering a boat to Rinca costs between Chartering aboattoRincacostsbetween Other thantheboattours, Labuanbajo Both campshave restaurants withalim- 085239054859) charges 500,000Rpfora mandi. Dur- 543

NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA at alongtheway. have remarkable naturalbeautyto wonder fortunatelyslows –though you’ll always of patiencewhenthegoing extra reserves traverse todrawon quickly,soyou’llneed east–westroadisimpossibleto serpentine andFlores’road constructiondifficult, orpartsofscene inBali Lombok. travellers buthasnothinglike thetourist kelling. Theislandattractsasteady flowof and idyllicoffshore islandswithfinesnor- around Labuanbajo and eastof Maumere, crater lakes of Kelimutu –terrific beaches TenggaraNusa – thesublimemultihued stream religious beliefs. cultures continuetothrive alongside main- overwhelmingly rich indigenous Catholic, Floresethnic groups.Today,though is theislandintomanydistinct has separated impenetrable untilrecent years andthat knife-edged ridges –terrain thatwasnear- complicated relief of V-shaped valleysand 544 who calledthe island’s easternmost cape cepted byall scientists. species of ‘Flores ac- man’has not yetbeen forthe existence ofthe evidence aunique theboxedyears ago(see text, p552 ), though hominid lived inFlores untilaround12,000 to indicate thataunique speciesof dwarf recentA startling findnearRuteng appears History Lombok (150km) To Sumbawa(40km); To Sumba FLORES Rinca (40km) Pulau The rugged nature of theislandmakes Flores hasthemostremarkable in sight Flores owes itsname tothe Portuguese, FLORES •• History FLORES ••History Seraya Pulau Besar Molo Selat Pulau Sumba Labuanbajo Selat Sumba Ruteng Mules Pulau Gunung (2400m) Ranaka Reo Teluk Reo Mborong MANGGARAI To Sumba REGION (40km) Aimere Teluk Pota Bajawa REGION NGADA Aimere Gunung (2240m) F LORESA Inerie Riung provincial This will be ahuge status. de- hills inthe 1920s. sionaries moved intotheisolated western tribes of centralandwestern Flores. Mis- campaign in1907subduedmostoftary the wars. Unrest continued untilamajor mili- fronted withrebellions andinter-tribal claves inthearea, includingLarantuka. Portugal’s remainingthey hadpurchased en- outofPortuguese mostof Flores, andby1850 centrepiece of village. almostevery successful import,andtodayachurch isthe Pulau SolorandatEnde. Christianitywasa tive trade, built fortresses sandalwood on Abreu. drawnbythelucra- ThePortuguese, navigatorby thePortuguese Antonio de Maluku duringthe15th and16thcenturies. Flores cameundertheswayof Ternate in lem, forcingpeopletoretreat inland.Eastern the coastsof Flores were acommonprob- fabric. BugisandMakassarese slave raidson ,cottonand ucts, sandalwood, copperware, prod- andleftwithrubber,sea ascurrency),elephant tusks(used linen and gold, from southernSulawesi.Theybrought in thehandsof theMakassarese andBugis century, much of Flores coastal wasfirmly Long before Europeansarrived in the16th tures fromacommonancestry. developed ers’. thattheisland’sdiverse It’sthought cul- dasFlores, ofCabo meaning‘Cape Flow- Maumbawa Boawae Today Flores is holding itsbreath for The Dutch were near-constantly con- In the17thcentury,Dutch kicked the As earlyas1512,Flores wassighted Mbay To Sumba (40km) Ende Teluk Pulau Ende Ende REGION ENDE Pulau Palue Kelimutu Gunung (1640m) www.lonelyplanet.com Moni Wolowaru Maumere Sukun Pulau Paga Pemana Pulau Sikka Pulau Besar Geliting Teluk only limited controlover itsownaffairs. under thejurisdictionof Kupangandhas velopment fortheisland,as it iscurrently www.lonelyplanet.com tably calls the‘Trans-Florestably Hwy’ spirals, What oneIndonesian tourist leafletchari- Around Getting (where theymake uphalfthepopulation). villages townssuch andcoastal asEnde happy whenrice is planted. tokeep theirancestors sacrifice or buffalo stilladmit totheoddchicken,Florinese pig calendar. Even educated, English-speaking pointsintheagricultural mark important forbirths,used marriages anddeaths andto is weldedontoadat . Animistritualsare still but inruralareas particularly,Christianity Melanesian. ofthe otherinhabitants Flores are more end of theislandare more Malay, while up inpurely animistsocieties. Indonesia,andtheirparentsof grew Bahasa areas, someolderpeopledon’tspeakaword Inthemore remote (Larantuka). Lamaholot (Ende), the (Maumere),Sikkanese andthe relatedthe closely Ende and (main townRuteng), the Lio peoples Ngada (Bajawa), areFrom westtoeast,these the Manggarai into five mainlinguisticandcultural groups. The island’s1.8millionpeopleare divided Culture Pedang Teluk Muslims tend tocongregate in fishing Around 85%of thepeopleare Catholic, Physically, thepeopleatwestern REGION SIKKA Hading Teluk Lewotobi Ili Mandiri Teluk (1510m) Larantuka To Kupang(120km);

Pulau Flores Selat Timor Boleng Selat Adonara Waiwerang Pulau Lamakera Sagu EAST FLORES REGION Lewoleba Lembata Lamalera Pulau S AWUE Waienga Teluk Balauring Alor Selat manage totraverse the islandtoo, using few superhuman cyclists withlegs of steel conditions andblindbends. A due totough scenery, but it’sonlyforexperienced bikers, with thecombination oftastic roads and Labuanbajo andMaumere, respectively. transport fixers inthemainarrivalpoints of take aphoto. See p549 and p567 for reliable you like totake inremote attractionsor tion forsmallgroups, asyoucanstopwhere petrol. Thisisbecoming avery popularop- 500,000Rp perday,includingdriver and Maumere. Thetrans-islandrate is450,000- car rental isavailable inLabuanbajo or are days. inadeplorablestatethese Reo andMbay,years agobutmanysections so-called ‘Trans-NorthernHwy’ between thecountry aironalongride. sniffing –itisn’tmuchpeople sickonthebuses fun that allthetwistsandturnsmake alotof passenger’s version of warned roadrage. Be soasnottoget thebus at regular intervals helps compensate. other hand,thestunningscenerycertainly arein therainyseason common.Onthe tortuously winding.Floodsandlandslides overcrowded, andtheroad isnarrowand arebut buses invariably small,crampedand alltheway, end of theisland.It’ssealed attheeasternLabuanbajo toLarantuka, twists andtumblesnearly700kmfrom F LORESA Motorcycling across the island isfan- withmoreFor those moneythantime, Work startedonanalternative route, the It isbesttobreak atrans-islandjourney 0 0 Gunung (1372m) Sirung Pantar Pulau Baranusa Kokar Pantar Selat TIMOR EAST FLORES ••Culture Kalabahi Pulau Alor WEST TIMOR Atapupu Taramana TIMOR 60 miles EAST 100 km

545 NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA and bungalow-style accommodation. islands nearbyhave blissful white-sandbays walk-on-and-flop beaches, someof thesmall you’re on theshores standing of avast lake. by theislands,giving theimpression that with outrigger fishingboatsandissheltered days here. Theattractive harbourisscattered nearby there’s reason every tospendafew world-class dive sites andfinesnorkelling Komodo andRinca,withdozens of charm. It’sthemainjumping-offpointfor an agreeably weathered, ramshackle slightly to thewestern tipof Flores, Labuanbajo has A picturesque fishingcommunityclinging % LABUANBAJO de-France trainees. the islandrulesoutcyclingforallbut Tour- freewheeling down,butthe topography of togetlocal buses uptheworst hillsand 546 Prundi ACCESSINTERNET Information thereThough aren’t any readily accessible and Lombokalsopassthroughthisarea. but thecurrents canbeferocious here; sharks,Napoleonwrasseand are seenregularly.turtles barracuda tohammerhead,bullandgrey sharks. Batu Balonghaslongbeenafavourite withdivers, spotted atNusaKodeoffthesoutherncoastofRinca. and Pulau Tala (September toJanuaryisthebestseason),while whalesharksare occasionally batfishandreef sharks.and seahorses, Dozens ofmantascansometimesbeseenatLankoiBay thereconfidence sorted, are over 50more sites intheKomodoregion. life; they’re idealforinexperiencedorocean-rustydivers. Onceyou’ve gotyourbuoyancyand down tosandybottomsataround10m.Bothalsohave nicecoralbommiesandlots ofmarine first atsites suchasSebayurandtheSaboloislands,whichhave shallowcoral plateaus sloping in deepwaters inanattempt toprovide analternative sourceofincome. bay justoffshore fromLabuanbajo),andpelagic fishaggregating deviceshave beenestablished encouraged tofarmfish,includingtigergrouperandseabass(somepens canbeseeninthe its waters are nowpatrolledbynavyvessels andthecoralisrecovering well.Fishermen are being also commoninthewaters betweenKomodoandFlores. here duringtheirmigrationfromtheIndianOceantoSouthChinaSea,while dolphins are and anastonishingdiversity ofmarinelife. Mantasandwhalesare drawntofeed ontheplankton Sea andthecoolerSelatSumba(SumbaStrait)–conditionswhichbringinarich soupofplankton swept bystrongcurrents andcoldupswellings,created bytheconvergence ofthewarmer Flores Komodo NationalPark hassomeofthemostexhilaratingscubadivinginIndonesia. It’saregion DIVING &SNORKELLINGAROUNDKOMODO LABUANBAJO 0385 FLORES ••Labuanbajo See opposite forrecommended dive Labuanbajo-based schools. Several fromBali live-aboards For areal adrenalin surge, GiliBantacanthrowupabsolutely anythingfromhuge schoolsof Crystal RockandtheseamountFull sideofKomodooffer nudibranchs Moononthenorth Due tothestrength ofthecurrents intheregion, tolocalconditions it’sbestto‘tune-up’ previously didsomedamagetothereefsBomb- andcyanide-fishing inthenationalpark,but (per hr 5000Rp) It’s quite a hike eastofthe centre. (per hr 5000Rp)It’s quiteahike the airport. About1km outoftown ontheroad to & Sat, to11amFri) Dinas Pariwisata TOURIST INFORMATION out of the air. prices topickhigh waterfront justseems offers thebest rates. Thewartel nearthe The Telkom officeis1kmwestof townbut TELEPHONE Post office POST BRI BNI dollars: that accepttravellers cheques andchange will offer similarrates tothebanks. Banks if you’re headingwest).Moneychangers est alternatives are inRuteng (orinBima writing onlyaccepted localcards;thenear- The oneATM in Labuanbajo atthetimeof MONEY 4.30pm Mon-Fri) Alsooffers credit-card4.30pm Mon-Fri) cashadvances. 3.30pm Mon-Fri) (Bank Rakyat Indonesia;JlYosSudarso; (Bank Rakyat (Bank NegaraIndonesia;JlYosSudarso; (Jl YosSudarso; (Jl ( % 41170; h www.lonelyplanet.com h 7am-2pm Mon-Sat) 7am-2pm Mon-Thu h h 8am- 8am- around 60,000Rpperperson withfouror where there’s coralandclearwater, costs tripto head on.Ahalf-day down tothedockandputyourbargaining habited islandof yourchoice, oryoucanget offer youupwithaboattotheunin- toset beach.out onadeserted Mosthotels will trips, offering thechance to snorkel orcrash Boat tripstonearbyislandsmake great day ISLANDS Sights &Activities information booth PHKA www.lonelyplanet.com Rinca islands, and has a small gift shop. islands,andhasasmallgift Rinca informationforKomodoand provides helpful,practical administerstheKomodoNationalPark, PHKA to 11amFri) indosat.net.id; JlYosSudarso; (Charter Boats) (Pelni & 4 1 3 Ferries) 2 LABUANBAJO Jetty ὈὈ F LORES Eco Lodge(2km) Jetty Bajo Komodo S EA CNDive...... Bajo DiveClub...... (see 10) Wartel...... Telkom...... Prundi...... PHKA InformationBooth...... BRI Bank...... BNI Bank...... ia aiiaa...... B3 Dinas Pariwisata...... SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION To Office Ferry 4 AC

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Sudarso

Yos Jl 22 8 7 Mosque Soccer Field 15 Office 13 16 21 2 Post 11 18

1 Lookout 24 20 Jl Kasimo Jl Dr Yoh ( h % Church 12 a nes 8am-2.30pm Mon-Thu, 41005; tnkomodo@ To Pasar(300m); Ruteng (137km) 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 A2 A2 B3 C3 A2 A2 A3 , Pulau Bidadari B Hotel Wisata...... Golo Hilltop...... Gardena Hotel...... Chez Felix...... Bajo BeachHotel...... Reefseekers...... Dive Komodo...... EATING SLEEPING eaaAuRsarn...... A2 Dewata AyuRestaurant...... 19

Pasar 14 3 6 strung out along the seafront road: strung outalongtheseafront opposite forafullrundown. scuba anddivingopportunitieshere; see National Park, there are someexcellent Labuanbajo andtheproximity of Komodo With dive sites aroundtheislandsnear DIVING &SNORKELLING more. worthloungingonare Beaches the northernendof themainstreet. there. Mostboatsleave fromtheshoreline at modation andoffer free transportifyoustay and shore islandof Kecil, Kukusan PulauSerayu but there’s snorkelling around thetinyoff- Waecicu, where thebungalowsare nowclosed Local dive operators have theiroffices –thelasttwohave accom- Pulau Kanawa 0 0 Binongko Pantai 15 14 13 12 11 10 16 9 Wae Rana A3 B1 A2 B2 A2 A2 A2 Pantai 5 23 TRANSPORT DRINKING Pelni Agent...... Merpati...... Harbour Master’s Office...... Central BajoTours...... BCB Travel...... Paradise Bar...... Restaurant Nirvana...... Matahari...... Gardena Hotel...... (see 13) Catholic Church FLORES ••Labuanbajo Airport To Ruteng(126km) D Cermin Bajawa (256km); Batu Ende (382km) 24 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 0.3 miles Pantai 500 m A1 C3 A1 A2 A3 B1 A2 A2 547

NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA 548 h not difficult. not difficult. navigationfee includesaguide,though is off thewalls,butit’shardlyspectacular. The the sunshinesintocanyonand reflects and 10am,dependingonthetime of year, gives 9am theoutcropitsname;between row canyon.Thisisthe‘mirrorrock’ that where thecave opensintoatowering, nar- of aseries chambers through proceed to and aroundintothelongest canyon,then of theoutcrop–take theladder walkwayup east of town.Themaincave isinthecentre ofincludes aseries caves located about4km This BATU CERMIN ( side of theprice. Komodo–thehigher further awaythesitenorthern is–say and US$75,includingallgear andlunch; the guarantee’. Twodives US$48 costbetween fer times.Condoof CNDive offers a‘manta forfasttrans- conditions andhasspeedboats isveryReefseekers wellinformedabout local and boatsbefore youdecidewhotodive with. schools first andaskabouttheirequipment It’s besttohave achat withallthedive Reefseekers Komodo Dive CNDive Club Bajo Dive Hotel Wisata Hotel CENTRAL AREA it’s quiet.Allhotel rates include breakfast. Most placeswilloffer smalldiscountswhen Sleeping have hitwithheavy been bills. care nottodamage it,assometravellers for snorkelling, aswill somehotels, buttake including twodives aday. modo costsUS$170perperson, orUS$320 live-aboard. Athree-day return triptoKo- boatthat operatesful teak sailing asadive 40,000-70,000Rp) it isina less appealingstretch of town. tosmart andmodern, although serviceable choice of but rooms, frombog standard 35,000/45,000Rp, larger r60,000/75,000Rp) % Based inLabuanbajo, the Based Dive operators willrent outequipment Hotel Gardena 8am-5pm) 03617420995; [email protected]) FLORES ••Labuanbajo ( limestone outcrop % 41159) , alsoknownasMirrorRock, ( % ( % ( This well-run hotel, themost % ( % 41443; www.reefseekers.net) ( 41354; www.divekomodo.com) % 41503; www.komododiver.com) 41020; s/dwithshower &fan 41258; JlYosSudarso; bungalows

(admission 10,000Rp; isabeauti- Offers a Offers Feliana

60,000/75,000Rp) 65,000Rp) there’s basic bungalow accommodation, a beach and snorkelling are excellent, and 45 minutes by boatfromLabuanbajo. The you can walk aroundina coupleof hours, with air-con150,000Rp) Labuanbajo. guests –toget tothefollowinghotels from totake aboatride–freeYou willneed for ISLAND HOTELS Bajo KomodoEcoLodge BY THEBEACH are available. more cottages are planned.Free airport a poolnotfarfromtheso-sobeach. Five and through, andbookstobrowse seating rooms. There’s alovely lounge withrattan rooms withstylishpebble-floored bath- airyandspacious light, haseight ing house in expansive grassygrounds, theimpos- ofand hasawhiff colonialstyle. Located Hotel toget here. theGardena contact stay; mum two-night more thanonthemainland. There’s amini- snorkelling. Foodpriceshere are notmuch white-sand beach, and there’s offshore onabamboo lodgings withmandisset an hourfromLabuanbajo. Offers simple Get-away-from-it-all bliss onPulauSerayu, land.com; s/dwithfan&mosquitonet80,000/100,000Rp) donesia.com; rUS$55; there’s arestaurant. rooms are functionalandwellkept, and bajo Theunlovely-looking Bay. concrete joys aterrificabove locationhigh Labuan- rooms withWestern toilets. tiled roomshave ceilingfansandbath- Also hasarestaurant. rooms.with neat,cleanandcomfortable speak goodEnglish,thisisaoption, bay andrunbyafriendlyfamilywhoall verandas. Therestaurant here isexcellent. most have fineharbourviewsfromtheir are dotted aroundaleafyhillsideplotand spaced woodenbungalows.Thebungalows popular placeintown,offers neat,well- 90,000Rp) Serayu IslandBungalows Serayu Kanawa IslandBungalows Kanawa Chez Felix Golo Hilltop Golo Hilltop Bajo BeachHotel Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com Set back off the road, these plain, backofftheroad,these Set Set inaquietlocationabove Set the ( OnPulau Kanawa, which ( % % s 41337; s/dwithfan75,000/85,000Rp, 41032; JlDrYohanes;r60,000-

Dutch-run placethaten- ( % ) Thisplaceexudesclass

( % 41008; rwithfan&shower www.lonelyplanet.com

( % 41391; www.ecolodgesin 41258; www.serayais

(bungalows s/d

12,000-23,000Rp; 28,000Rp; ticket agent isBCBTravel andLabuanbajo. Denpasar between Its the airport,about 1.5kmfromtown. 23,000Rp; mains 12,000-25,000Rp; wiches, soupsandhotplates. andamenuthatincludes sand- sunset, from theport-facing deck, particularly at prices. ciality; bothare available atvery reasonable sizzling hotplates somethingof alocalspe- value restaurants, withfresh and seafood Labuanbajo hassomeextremely good- Eating &Drinking Hotel forafree ride. the Kanawa officeopposite theGardena few hammocksandarestaurant. Contact www.lonelyplanet.com office The fourdaysaweek. and Denpasar Merpati Labuanbajo between hasflights AIR &Away There Getting mixedmusic andsells spirit-based drinks. hill onthenorthernsideof town,haslive Paradise Bar or twowiththeirmeal.Butatweekends the and mostpeopleare content toenjoyabeer ter andgarlic. dishessuchtasty as tunacooked with but- place, withpanoramicharbourviews, has a bitunder-patronised days,butthis these tuna. and finehotplatessteak –trythebeef or Intimate littlerestaurant withfriendlystaff snapper hotplate (20,000Rp). huge; gorge special, yourselfonthehouse breeze andtheportionsareto catch thesea offer fineviewsof thebay.It’sopen-sided above enough rant isjusthigh thestreet to enjoyable andvery popular hotel restau- 6000Rp. four times aweek). had begun flyingtoMaumere (586,000Rp, the time this bookwentto press, Transnusa GT Airhasfour direct perweek flights Gardena Hotel Hotel Gardena Matahari There’s noreal barsceneinLabuanbajo Nirvana Restaurant Dewata AyuRestaurant Departure from Labuanbajo is tax ( % h h 41177) breakfast, lunch&dinner) breakfast, lunch&dinner) ( % ( h h is between Labuanbajo and isbetween 41083; JlYosSudarso;dishes10,000- 6pm-2am Fri &Sat) 6pm-2am Fri ( breakfast, lunch&dinner) % h

41258; JlYosSudarso;mains (Jl YosSudarso;mains13,000- (Jl breakfast, lunch&dinner)

( ( % % 41088; JlKasimo) 41304; JlYosSudarso; Terrific views It’slooking , up a steep , upasteep Merpati Merpati This . At

Jl YosSudarso) Getting Around Getting of ejectorseats. positions behindare goodapproximations tive infront of toget therear aseat axle;the Ruteng. Ifyoutravel thisway,it’simpera- arrivingferries. meet ditional buses toEnde(105,000Rp,15hours).weekly Ad- (70,000Rp, 10hours) at6amdaily,andthree four hours) twohours, every onetoBajawa from yourhotel. an advanceticket, thebuswillpickyouup expensive thantheyshouldbe. If youget hotel oragency, which makes themmore most peoplebooktheirtickets a through There isnobusterminal inLabuanbajo so BUS &TRUCK boat schedules. the vessel’s departure. See p540 forSape office (infrontof thepier)onehourbefore attheharbourmaster’scan bepurchased to Sapeabout17hours. Tickets forSape in westSumba,makingthejourneytime day andThursday ittravels viaWeikelo nine hours) leaves at8amdaily.OnMon- toLabuanbajo toSape(27,000Rp,eight No ferries stopatKomodo. Theferry from BOAT or aprivateis 10,000Rptotown. taxi Hotel reps andoffer flights free meet lifts, The airfieldisabout 1.5kmfromthetown. your hotel. Motorcycle rental is also possible; speak to minibus (750,000Rp) fortrips acrossFlores. including driver and fuel)ora10-seater about renting aKijang(450,000Rp aday, Central BajoTours isCentral contact this option,see p516 . ThelocalPerama boat snorkelling andexploration. Formore on Komodo andSumbawaalongthewayfor Floresbetween andLombok,stoppingat ports inWestPapua. from Labuanbajo toMaumere, Timor and Benoa. coast of and Sulawesi,ortoBima,Lembar longkabila headstoMakassar andtheeast east of town.ThemonthlyPelni ship tucked awayinaside street inthenorth- Passenger trucksalso ply theroute to There are toRuteng (30,000Rp, buses The Speak totransport supremo Tarsi Many travellers totake choose aboattrip Pelni agent Tatamailau alsotravels monthly . FLORES ••Labuanbajo ( % 41106)

( iseasytomiss, % 41289; fax41490; ( % 41649) 549 Ti-

NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA this can’tberelied upon. has anATM, meanthat thoughpoorsatelliteconnections 3.30pm Mon-Sat)Changescashandtravellerscheques 550 BNI bank go toBajawa orLabuanbajo foracyberfix. good noticeboards.There’s nointernet access; For information,theMerlin restaurant has Information the interminable busjourney. here,just spendanight stoppingtobreak teresting inthevicinity.Mostpeople sights therelarly atmospheric,though are somein- streets, butit’sspread outandnotparticu- slopes beneathalineof volcanichills. town issurroundedbyricefieldsongentle to thewestcoastfromnorthof Aimere. The heart of Manggarai country,which extends hill peopleof western Flores, Ruteng isthe A market pointforthe townand meeting % RUTENG rounding hills. placeforpeoplefromthesur-is ameeting (126km) To Labuanbajo 1 3 2 RUTENG Ruteng’s lively, sprawling Ruteng cooltownof isapleasantly broad

0385 /pop35,000 FLORES ••Ruteng Ruteng (3km) To Compang 13 (Bank Negara Indonesia; Jl Kartini; (BankNegaraIndonesia;JlKartini; 10 12 11 4 Waegarik Waterfall(6km); Ὀ

To GoloCuru(1.5km);

A

Jl Amenehuno

Jl Bhayangkara Jl Liang Bua(14km); Pasar Jl Kartini Jl Pagal (21km); Station 9 Police Reo (60km) Shops

Jl Komodo Main 8 3

1

Jl Niaga Cathedral Jl AYani Jl Kabupaten Jl

Jl Diponogoro Office Sports Post Field (Raja's House) Rumah Adat

0 0

Jl Motang Rua Motang Jl Jl Baruk Jl Jl Waeces

Mosque 2

Jl Yos Sudarso Yos Jl Jl S Riyadi S Jl 6 Gunung Ranaka(17km) pasar To BusTerminalforthe 5 East (3.5km);Danau B

Jl Adi Sucipto Ranamese (22km); To Airport(2km); Bajawa (130km); h Ende (256km) (Jl Kartini) (Jl 300 m 0.2 miles 8am- 7

75,000/90,000Rp) 50,000/60,000/75,000Rp, s/d/trwithbathroom60,000/ the economyoptionsatallcosts. VIP roomshave hot-water showers. Avoid reasonable andhave andthe naturallight, roomsattherear thestandard however, are of decayaboutthereception andcorridors; impressions are terrible here, withareal air r 40,000Rp,standard100,000Rp,VIP150,000Rp) 125,000Rp, VIPr175,000-200,000Rp) Hotel Rima Sleeping Telkom office Post office BRI bank rooms have bathrooms. pealing, andtheclean,well-maintained rustic location,aroundricepaddies,isap- It’s abitof ahike fromthecentre, but the plain, andhave hotwater. money. TheVIProomsare spacious, if ofclasses rooms, nonegoodvaluefor through them.through motorcycle hire canoften bearranged There’s alsoarestaurant andbararea, and bathrooms have Western-style facilities). expensive optionswithshowers (theshared tidy, somewithbunkbedsandthemore coming too. Alltheroomsare neatand ispretty andwel- efficient and theservice hotel isadeadringer foraSwisschalet, dollars. 500,000Rp withdrawallimit.ThebankalsochangesUS h TRANSPORT EATING SLEEPING INFORMATION Bus Terminal...... Agen Bus...... Supermarket...... Restaurant Merlin...... Lestari...... Agape Café...... Rima Hotel...... Losmen Agung...... Hotel Sindha...... Hotel Dahlia...... Telkom...... BRI Bank...... BNI Bank...... Dahlia Hotel Hotel Sindha Hotel Losmen Agung 7.30am-3pm Mon-Fri, 8am-1pmSat)TheATM7.30am-3pm Mon-Fri, hasa Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com (Bank Rakyat Indonesia;JlYosSudarso; (BankRakyat (Jl Baruk 6; (Jl ( (Jl Kartini; Kartini; (Jl % Thisexcellentlittlewooden ( ( % 22196; JlAYani 14;economys/d/tr % ( % 21197; JlYosSudarso26;economy h 21377; Jl Bhayangkara; r75,000- 21377; JlBhayangkara; 21080; JlWaeces10;r70,000Rp) h 7am-2pm Mon-Sat) www.lonelyplanet.com 24hr) There are four Initial 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 A1 A2 B2 B1 B1 A2 A3 B1 A3 A2 A2 A2 A2

dishes. donesian food,includingshrimp andfish log cabin–styledresto forwell-priced In- ner) 32B; mains13,000-30,000Rp; 15,000Rp; heresale too. ing machines attherear. Localcoffee isfor gas-firedthe substantial coffee beanroast- the owner,Timotius, andhe’llshow you Speakto sine, andGuinnessBintang. breakfasts, Western andIndonesiancui- espresso machine andcakes. Italsoserves an welcome newcafé,withfriendlyservice, food, meatballsoupandsate. PadangWarungs aroundthemarket serve Eating www.lonelyplanet.com ing free rides. areflights usually metbyhotel reps offer- The airportis2km southeastof town,and AIR &Away There Getting Kartini) 8000-30,000Rp; office 0380881256) provinces. Merlindishes, though sure ispriceyforthe try thechicken withchilli –andIndo sauce for the latest schedule. Merpati offers two Ende. Check atyour hotel or call Kupang from Ruteng allvia to Kupang(fourweekly) Restaurant Merlin Restaurant Lestari Lestari Agape Café Café Agape At thetime of research Transnusa Ruteng alsohasthebiggest cloth wrappedaroundhisforearm. springystick andathicka rawhideoval shieldanda1m-longwhip,theother hasashort, uptiltedfights betweencombatantswearingwoodenmaskslike welder’shelmets. Onecarries involves theslaughter ofbuffaloandpigs. Trialsofstrength placeatthistime,including take Manggaraievent. It’sacleansingceremonythe mostimportant thathonourstheancestorsand ceremonies. which offerings were placed,oryoumaybeshownritualparaphernaliausedduringsacrificial linger butare dwindling. Insomevillagesyoucanstillfindthe ature horses. The Manggarailanguageisunintelligible totheotherpeopleofFlores. in theirdistinctive blacksarongs,trailingblack-haired orherding beautifulmini- pigsintomarket tional’ ethnicgroupsinFlores. They tend tobeshybutfriendly–you’llseemanyaroundRuteng The Manggaraihillpeopleare perhapsthebestknownandmostinteresting ofthemany‘tradi- MANGGARAI THE Offers anextensive menuof – Chinese The Christianity nowpredominates amongtheuplandManggarai;traditionalanimistpractices between Bima andEnde. between h penti ceremony, planting,is heldduringAugust andthenext between thericeharvest ( % breakfast, lunch&dinner) h ( 21393; JlKomodo2;dishes10,000- % was about to start flights wasabout tostart breakfast, lunch&dinner) 22561; Jl Bhayangkara 6-8;dishes 22561; JlBhayangkara

( % h 22475; Jl Bhayangkara 22475; JlBhayangkara breakfast, lunch&din- supermarket Head tothis

( % Avery Kupang (Jl from thecentralbus/bemoterminal. twohoursevery (30,000Rp,fourhours) toLabuanbajoyour hotel. leave Buses about Rima hotel aboutmotorcycle rental. cost 1000Rparoundtown.Contact Bemos Around Getting Bus vance atAgen toeach town.Buyyourticket inad- services at 7.30am;there are alsoacoupleof later and Ende(70,000Rp,ninehours) depart going toBajawa (40,000Rp,five hours) be outof Pagal by3pm.BuenaMas buses best toleave earlyfromRuteng andaimto ing toPagal 1½hours). (6000Rp,every It’s areReo, sothese anoptionifyou’re head- lice station. the centralbus/bemoterminal nearthe po- headingweststill run from trucks andthose runhere for1000Rp.Localbuses, Bemos located inconveniently 3.5kmoutof town. The busterminal foreastern destinationsis BUS cluding agold-and-silver heirlooms, in- that contains house meeting aceremonialOne isthe MbaruGendrang, renovated burial platform of rocks andacouple of of stone composed araised ancestor altar from Ruteng hasacompang , atraditional , a‘ Compang Ruteng traditional’ village 3km AROUND RUTENG cancellations are frequent onthisroute. toKupangviaEnde,though flights weekly There are regular andbemosto buses

rumah adat (traditional houses). compang, aringofflatstoneson FLORES ••AroundRuteng ( % 21302; Jl Bhayangkara 4) 21302; JlBhayangkara panggal , the mask caci 551

or NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA emonial incer- hornandused shaped like abuffalo 552 Mary Further north, 6km ona pedestal. ofon the hilltop witha statue theVirgin the small bridge. There’s aderelict shrine minutes past the Hotel Karya, at turnright down the Reoroadand, whenyou’re 20 valleys.Walk mountain slopes anddistant of thehills,valleys,ricepaddies, terraced offers early-morningviews spectacular emonies thatare held furtherafield. around Ruteng forinformation onthecer- a sizabledonation (about 15,000Rp).Ask pants duelwithwhipsandshields). , ahilltothenorth of Ruteng,Golo Curu Visitors are asked tosign inandmake more littlepeoplecould yetemerge fromtheevolutionary backwoods. inTimor,very similartothosefoundinLiangBuareportedly unearthed andpossiblyinSulawesi, large jawbonewasfound,ofbroadlysimilardimensionstothefirstdiscovery. Andwithtools thatrunsinfamilies.dwarfism, suffered frommicrocephaly–aneurological disordercausingstunted headgrowth, andoften (who were knowntobe travelling betweenAustralia andNewGuinea35,000years ago)that inisolated places.the speciessurvived put paidtoHomoerectus around50,000yearsago,thoughFlores humanscouldindicate that toconfirmthis.extracted Untilrecently itwasthoughtthatthearrivalof Africa aroundtwomillionyearsagoandspread throughoutAsia –thoughnoDNAhasyetbeen of thoughtargues thattheFlores hominidsare descendantsof ism), suchascolossalratsandKomododragons. ‘stegodon’ aswellexamplesofgiantism (whichtend tooccurinthesamelocationsas dwarf- mate oxymoron oftheanimalworld–apygmymammoth. European size injust6000years,whileCalifornia’s ChannelIslandswere oncehometotheulti- islands. InJersey,oneoftheBritishChannelIslands,red oftheirnormal deershranktoasixth onevolutionary phenomenonthathasbeenwelldocumented intheanimal world,particularly Flores. volcanic eruptionisthoughttohave wipedoutthelittlepeopleanddevastated theislandof arms lived yesterday until12,000yearsago,practically inevolutionaryterms, whenacataclysmic the ‘hobbit’. human, an adult.Sixmore remains appeared anewspeciesof toconfirmthattheteam hadunearthed that wasthesize ofathree-year-old childbuthadthe worn-downteeth andbonestructure of until September 2003,whenarchaeologists madeastunningfind. roamed thejunglesduringtimesoftheirrecent ancestors. paidthem muchattention No-one The Manggaraihave longtoldfolktalesof THE FLORES‘ HOBBIT’ FLORES ••AroundRuteng For detailsaboutvisitingLiangBua,see below . But themomentumstillseemstobe with theoriginal theory, given thatin2005asecond Anthropologists opposedtothissuggestthattheFlores findcouldrepresent But notallscientistsare convincedabouttheorigins oftheFlores find. The prevailing school richintheseevolutionaryquirksofnature.Flores isparticularly Ithadminielephantscalled It seemsthat Lab tests broughtanothersurprise. The jawandgangly,chimplike hominidwiththenutcracker atadepthof6mskeletonExcavating thelimestonecave atLiangBua,theyunearthed caci Homo floresiensis, whichreached around1minheightandwasinevitablynicknamed (amartialartinwhich partici- Homo floresiensis couldrepresent an thefirstever exampleofhumandwarfism, ebo gogo–hairylittlepeoplewithflatforeheads who the Flores ‘ hobbit’ was found (see above ), saving energy for avolcanoclimb elsewhere. scured by3m regrowth –you’llbebetter off arethe airport. Viewsfromthe mountain ob- road fromthe8km markeastof townpast cano thaterupted in1987, canbereached by port information. toReo.the mainroad See p551 fortrans- village of Pagal, 21kmnorthof Ruteng on main Ruteng market, orvisittheweaving embroidered patterns. Theyare soldinthe . waterfall isthe from Ruteng, nearCancar, The limestone cave of The 2400m Manggarai are sarongs blackwithpretty Homo erectus, aspeciesthatfled , anactive vol- Gunung Ranaka Homo sapiensinAsia www.lonelyplanet.com Liang Bua Homo sapiens Waegarik Waegarik , where

and allwillstop. Bajawa–Ruteng route bythelake, passes a 10,000Rpentrancefee. Any busonthe visitors centre, where youmaybecharged dies below.Trailslooparoundthelake and the rear of thecrater, floodingthericepad- here, andacoupleof waterfalls tumblefrom main Bajawa road.There are picnicspots lake 22kmfromRuteng, nexttothe isright organising atriphere. or Rimahotels ortheAgape about Café locals –speaktotheowners of theDahlia the LiangBuacave isconsidered sacred to best totravel here withalocalguide,as place where thelittlefolkwere found.It’s wide cave, somesticksmarkthe although there. There atthe30m- isnotmuch tosee humans andanimalswholived anddied over theremains millennia,sealing of the steadily aswaterthe cave flowedthrough tobuildupentrance permitted sediments thatthelipalong ologists believe able after periodsof heavy rain.Archae- very dirttrackthatisoften rough notpass- is about14kmnorthof Ruteng, downa www.lonelyplanet.com (130km) To Ruteng 1 3 2 BAJAWA , acircularaquamarine Ranamese Danau Central Motor...... Bemo Terminal...... Lucas...... Camellia Restaurant...... Borobudur...... Hotel Sehati...... Hotel Korina...... Hotel Kembang...... Hotel BintangWisata...... Elizabeth Hotel...... Edelweis...... Tourist Office...... Telkom...... Post Office...... BNI Bank...... TRANSPORT EATING SLEEPING INFORMATION oe ret...... B1 Hotel Ariesta...... AC

16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

C3 C2 C3 C3 C3 C2 C3 B2 C2 D2 C3 D3 C2 C1 C3

Jl Marta Dinata Marta Jl

Jl Suryo Pranoto Suryo Jl Mosque Jl El Tari El Jl 7 9 B

Jl Diponegoro Church Stadium Bajawu

Pasar Jl Haryono

Jl KH Dewantara BNI bank Information esque lakes, isalso proving ahit. cano of WawoMuda,withitsKelimutu- attractions, buttherecently emerged vol- only hotshower inFlores!) are theoriginal lages ornearbyhotsprings(formany,their groups inFlores. ForaystovisitNgadavil- Ngada people,oneof themosttraditional few daysexploringthecountryside. tion, makingitapopularplacetospend good range of restaurants andaccommoda- corn fields.Theclimate ismildandthere’s a with blooms,itssuburbsfusinggently with village withwell-tended gardensbursting the south.It’ssomethingof anovergrown Gunung Inerie(2245m)loominglarge to rounded byforested volcanichills,with sits atanaltitudeof 1100mandissur- The attractive, relaxed hilltownof Bajawa % BAJAWA h exchanges dollarsandtravellerscheques.

Jl Gajah Mada Bajawa isthemaintradingcentre of the

0384 8am-3pm Mon-Fri, to12.30pmSat)HasanATM8am-3pm Mon-Fri, and 13 Jl Basoeki Rahmat Basoeki Jl 15 10 5 1 (BankNegaraIndonesia;JlPierre Tendean; 14 11

Jl Ahmad Yani 8 16

3 12 Jl Soekarno Hatta Soekarno Jl Airport (25km);Riung(92km) 2 0 0 To Soa(20km);Wawo Muda (21km);Bajawa Bela (9km); Mataloko(18km); Bena(19km); Prison Ende–Ruteng Road (3km);Langa(7km); FLORES ••Bajawa Wogo (20km); Nage(26km) To WatujajiBus Terminal& 4 To Boawae(41km); Ende (126km) D 6 0.1 miles

Jl Inerie

200 m

553 NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA clean enough and the staff are helpful. andthestaff clean enough thedecorators forawhile,butit’sseen groups, andsomeof theroomshave not friendly English-speaking team, this simply ard r135,000Rp,VIP240,000-285,000Rp) 15,000Rp; 554 Elizabeth Hotel the volcano. Allare overpriced, however. andshared balconiesthathaveTVs viewsof classto‘VIP’roomswith clean ‘standard’ place hasmodernrooms,fromplain-but- the pleasant courtyardareathe pleasant attheback. cleanroomsatthefrontoraround bright, inthenorthoffamily guesthouse townwith 65,000/75,000Rp) ern toiletsand tresses andattachedbathrooms withWest- with large, cleanroomswithdecentmat- high season. season. high gets booked upwithDutch tourgroupsin airylivingareas. light, ding andpleasant It has clean,homelyroomswithfrillybed- another excellentfamily-ownedplace. It bracket. Allpricesinclude breakfast. veryBajawa, though littleabove thisprice There’s agoodchoice of budget digsin Sleeping office Tourist Telkom Office Post office dang places aroundthemarket. of restaurants, tiny Pa- includingseveral For asmalltown, Bajawa has agoodrange Eating Sehati Hotel 50,000/60,000Rp) bathrooms andmosquito nets. of thecentre, thiswell-runhotelhasspaciousrooms with with ahealthychoiceof rooms, somewithsprungbeds. 40,000/50,000Rp, withmandi 60,000/70,000Rp)Ahomestay h ternational calls. mandi 60,000/75,000Rp) yellowing leaflets but not much practical advice. yellowing leafletsbutnotmuchpractical h 95,000Rp) Hotel BintangWisata Hotel Or try: Edelweis Kembang Hotel Korina Hotel Lucas Ariesta Hotel 8.30am-3pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-1pmSat)Hasafew 8.30am-3pm Mon-Fri, 24hr, internet8am-6pm) FLORES ••Bajawa It’soverpriced, bytour asit’sused h ( % (Jl Soekarno Hatta; Soekarno (Jl ( breakfast, lunch &dinner) ( % 21340; Ahmad Yani 6;mains10,000- % ( Avery tidyfamily-runplace Opposite theKorina,thisis % ( (Jl Soekarno Hatta;perhr12,000Rp; Soekarno (Jl % 21431; Jl Basoeki Rahmat; s/d s/d Rahmat; 21431; JlBasoeki mandis. ( ( 21554; Jl Soekarno Hatta; 21554; JlSoekarno % % 21345; JlAhmadYani 76;s/d 21223; Jl Inerie; r85,000Rp)West 21223; JlInerie; ( A deservedly popular Adeservedly % 21292; JlDiponegoro;s/dwith 21162; JlAhmadYani 81;s/d ( %

21072; Jl Marta Dinata;r 21072; JlMarta The cheapestplaceforin- h 21744; JlPalapa 4;stand- 8am-2pm Mon-Sat) Run bya Thisnew other travellers andlocalguides. it’sagoodplacetomeet with theCamellia, a fearsome arak ifnotunpalatable . Along pork sateandotherlocalfaves, including upfine furnished tin-roofed placeserves and Indonesiangrub. andChinese clean placehassteak, seafood, in thefrontroomof this asuburbanhouse, book aticket in advance, butyou’ll prob- will pickup from hotels ifyou Most buses BUS Bajawa, aschanges are common. ferry. Ask forthelatest schedule athotels in Aimere (8000Rp)and buytheticket onthe bemo fromthe Watujaji bus terminal to Tuesday morning ataround9am.Take a and thenleaves forKupang(62,000Rp)on day at4pm.Itreturns toAimere overnight gapu (48,000Rp)in Sumba,leaving onMon- Aimere, onthecoastnearBajawa, toWain- The ASDPfairlyfastferry BOAT Regular bemostravel from the BEMO &TRUCK Kupang oraskatyourhotel. itsofficein toKupang–contact flights but it’spossiblethatMerpati mayresume Bajawa nolonger hasareliable airservice, AIR &Away There Getting ikat cloth,someof which isforsale. good quality.Lotsof thelocalwomenwear jawa Market) plentifulfruitthat’sof sells Big, busyandcolourful,Pasar Bajawu (Ba- Shopping and Swissrosti. dishes onthemenu,includingsandwiches with awidechoice of localandWestern large, place Chinese-run well-established Basoeki Rahmat) Basoeki most mains15,000Rp; so youcanalsopickthemuponthe street. Thebemosroamaround townalot, Bena. day thatrunstoJerebuu, passingthrough schedule. There isalsoatleastonetrucka or three timesadaybutnottoregular runtwo toBena andBoawae. Bemos Langa 10,000-23,000Rp; Camellia Restaurant Camellia Borobudur Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com toSoa,Mangulewa, Mataloko, h ( % breakfast, lunch&dinner) 21894; Jl Basoeki Rahmat; mains Rahmat; 21894; JlBasoeki h

breakfast, lunch&dinner) ( % www.lonelyplanet.com 21458; JlAhmadYani 74; Perum runsfrom terminal Located A (Jl www.lonelyplanet.com cept the bus terminals. but it iseasyto walkalmost everywhere ex- Yellow aroundtown, bemos(1000Rp) cruise Around Getting your ticket ahotel. through and noon. hours), windingroad,at8am alongatough, are toRiung (18,000Rp,three alsobuses five hours) goat7amandnoon.There toEnde(44,000Rp, and noon;buses (40,000Rp, five hours) are at7am, 11am hours) leaves toRuteng at7am;buses centre justofftheEnde–Ruteng road. main Watujaji terminal, 3kmsouthof the town before thebusfinallyleaves fromthe ably have toendure endlessloopsaround You willpayacommission ifyoubook The bustoLabuanbajo (70,000Rp,10 Ngada beliefisGaeDewa,whounites DewaZeta (theheavens) and NituSale(theearth). costumes. Thebuffalo sacrificesandthewearingofspecial blackikat highestgodintraditional Bena, 19kmfromBajawa,heldinlate DecemberorearlyJanuary,whichincludesdancing,singing, marriage, deathandhousebuilding. The majorannualfestival isthesix-day Rebaceremony at rites birth, continue(sometimesinvolving gorybuffalosacrifices),aswellceremonies marking cultural changes. grated toIndonesia. onlyinisolated areas Megalithssurvived thatweren’t withlater incontact Vietnamculture, about2700yearsago,thenmi- whicharoseinsouthernChinaandnorthern Tanimbar –aswellinMalaysiaandLaos. The commonthread isthoughttobetheDongson of Indonesia–amongthemPulau ofSulawesi,Sumbaand Nias,’sBatakhighlands,parts here three centuriesago. Butsimilarstonestructures (megaliths)cropupinotherremote parts have ledtosomeexotictheoriesabouttheNgada’sorigins. andhorizontalstoneslabs.vertical The latter, ancestors, whichappeartobegraves ofimportant each otheracrossanopenspacethatcontains cording toafixed pattern, accompaniedbyceremonies thatmayinvolve buffalosacrifices. Periodically, fromancestorsindreams, oninstruction apairof inlong-pastbattlesoverpeople killed landdisputes, andtheymaybemore than100yearsold. familygroupwithinavillage. Somearewith aparticular said tohave beenbuilttocommemorate presence ofancestors. The have disappeared. them standinginmostNgadavillages,thoughthelesstraditionalones some ofthe aminiaturethatched ‘roof’,andthebhagaislike thatched-roofhouse. You’llseegroupsof The Christianity. 1920. Olderanimisticbeliefs remain afusionofanimismand strong,and mostNgadapractise Inerie. They were subduedbytheDutchin1907,andChristianmissionariesarrived inabout Over 60,000 Ngada peopleinhabittheuplandBajawaplateau andtheslopesaroundGunung THE NGADA In additiontongadhu, Traditionally, theNgadabelieve themselves tohave comefromJavaandtheymayhave settled The traditionalNgadavillagelayoutistworows ofhigh-roofed housesonlowstilts. These face The andmeaningsof functions The mostevidentsymbolsofcontinuingNgada traditionare thepairsofngadhu is a parasol-like structure about 3m-high, consisting of a carved woodenpoleand structurengadhu isaparasol-like about3m-high,consistingofacarved

Treks bhaga andtheancestorworshipthatgoeswiththem,agriculturalfertility ngadhu is‘male’andthe (trucks) also ngadhu are multiple,butbasicallytheysymbolisethecontinuing ngadhu andbhagagroupsofhuman-sized and some will organise meals intheir home (like the caste system) with agood guide, a lotmore about theculture and customs sible tovisit thearea alone,butyou’ll learn the traditional villages. pos- It iscertainly to get outintothe countrysideandexplore The mainattraction of Bajawa isthechance AROUND BAJAWA Motor Kijang (withdriver) is350,000Rpat afternoon. lages inthemorningandreturning inthe remote routes, mostleavingserve thevil- don’t get stranded inSoa. from thePasar Bajawu cost6000Rp, but Bajawa andabout6kmoutside Soa. Bemos bhaga is‘female’, andeachpairisassociated Motorcycles cost75,000Rpaday,or The airport(Map p556 ) is25kmfrom ( % 21242; JlAhmadYani) ngadhu andbhagaisremade ac- FLORES ••AroundBajawa .

and bhaga. bhaga Central Central

555

NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA and Bena hasthebonusof fineviews. and Bena the mosttraditional andimpressive villages, andWogoareing someone’shome. Bena member thatentering avillage islike enter- photos isusually OK,butaskfirst andre- visitors’ bookandmake adonation.Taking ists. Ifvisiting,itiscustomaryto signthe information. see p555 wanting tocover groundatafaster pace, formotorcycle-andcar-hire a guide,includingbemofares. Forthose andLucas. or intherestaurants Camellia spective guidesapproach youinyour hotel, and/or French). You’re likely to have pro- lish (afew alsoknowalittleDutch, German main difference istheirproficiency inEng- villages ortreks acrossthecountryside. The 556 Bemos travel hereBemos from Bajawa’s bemo ter- Bajawa, butthis village isfairly modern. which is7km fromancestors) inLanga, pole–like cated tomale ancestors) and totem are There Langa &Bela (110km) Ruteng (1km); Aimere To Jerebuu AROUND BAJAWA Bajawa toMangulewa5km Bena toMalanage Langa toBena Bajawa toWatujaji Mangulewa toBena Watujaji toLanga Gunung (2245m) The villagers are totour- nowquite used Aim topayaround100,000Rpaday for Inerie Wawo Muda Kampung FLORES ••AroundBajawa (1753m) Bena Bolozi Bela Watujaji Nage Bomuzi Mata AirPanas Langa Ngoranale Waebela Malanage Soa Watumeze Menge Surisina Dena Bajawa Wolobobo Waepana 10km 12km 6km 4km 3km Borado Meli Boua Kuruboko Tarawaja Welu Tanjung Nage Warikeo Piga Dadawea Zau Mangulewa 12miles 0 0 S AWU Wogo Doka Loa S EA Riung (25km) Radawae Mataloko To Were ngadhu (dedi- Bajawa Airport bhaga (female Kampung Wogo Lama Toda Malanuza Zepe To Boawae(5km); Sarasadu Mata AirPanas Maumbawa Mangaruda Utaseko Nagarawe Ende (81km) Laja Reko 20 km Roa off themainroad. tional andisacoupleof kilometres away, ismore interestingminal. Bela andtradi- power shower. with acold-water stream, offering awarm flowing, hot andemerald-green river mixes AirPanas ( Mata hot springs), where afast- About 2kmbefore Nage are the two rowsofbetween high-roofed houses. maintained of GunungInerie. Anumberof well- withgreat viewsabout 7kmfrom Bena, Nage isatraditionalvillage onaplateau Nage 7am andreturns fromBajawa at1pm. to/from Bajawa at (4000Rp);itleaves Bena jang ormotorcycle. There’s onedailybemo inaKi- that’spassable road (mostly) sealed explain all. villager RodjaGalewillthe senior Yosef ing possibledeath.Ifyoucanspeak Dutch, defyingthe tionships, withthose caste system thatprevented ‘mixed’ rela- elders about arigidlyenforced stilltalk attend alocalmissionaryschool. Village all villagers are and nowofficiallyCatholic and customsare stronglyfollowed,though arrive,when tourbuses traditional beliefs thevillageof Although iscrowded houses. weavings andsouvenir linethefront stalls inabout fourhours. and Bena, Langa climbed fromWatumeze,between two-hour walkaway.GunungIneriecanbe –a view downajagged valleytothesea recently builtlookoutoffers aspectacular at thetopof thevillage andbehindita sign of thefamily’sprosperity. horns andjawbones–a rated withbuffalo on theirroofs, whiledoorwaysare deco- haveMost houses maleorfemale figurines and strange megalithictomblike structures. are smeared withbloodafter sacrifices) them filledwithfine in tworowsonaridge, thespacebetween thatched withhigh roofsHouses lineup its stonemonumentsare aprotected site. of themosttraditionalNgadavillages, and isone volcano, 19kmfromBajawa, Bena On theflankof the Bena Bena is 12km from Langa down a poor but downapoorbut is12kmfromLanga Bena isthemostvisited village, andBena A smallChristianshrinesitsonamound ngadhu, ngadhu, (2245m) Gunung Inerie bhaga www.lonelyplanet.com and tombslie bhaga (which adat fac- Malanage Malanage wood are heldaround June. the highway. is famousforitshugelocated on seminary, atMatalokohighway (1000Rp).Mataloko regular bemos shuttle toWogofromthe and easilyreached bybusorbemo–very is 18kmfromBajawa ontheEnderoad in ceremonies. These megalithic of jagged stonesjutoutfromtheground. where vastgroups to theleftWogoLama, off attheDadaweasignandfollowtrack electricity. a few modconshave arrived, including largest andmosttraditionalvillages, though Thisisoneofditional houses. thearea’s sets of ngadhuandbhaga, ringed bytra- Wogo isalarge village ornine witheight Wogo www.lonelyplanet.com where traditional Interesting sites inthis area include related and Boawaenese. totheBajawanese sitional cultural region people are whose Soa, about 20kmnorthof Bajawa, isatran- Soa up, asthepathis doableonamotorcycle. drivers may offer totake youthewholeway hour upaneasy-to-follow trail.Someojek lage of Ngoranale,nearMenge, andwalk an (5000Rp, 50minutes) oran take oneof theregular bemosfromBajawa the lakes usuallyevaporate. To get there are nottoosodden,asinthedrymonths son fromNovember toMarch, ifthetrails perfect coneof GunungInerie. there are viewsof spectacular thenear- patches like hairs onabaldingpate, and charred inisolated bytheeruptionstand burnt orange insideitscrater. Pinetrees smalllakesplete withseveral coloured a ing behindasortof mini-Kelimutu, com- in Flores, blowingitstopin2001and leav- Wawo Mudaisthelatest volcano toemerge Wawo Muda from Bajawa via Bena andMangulewa.from Bajawa viaBena morning andoneintheafternoon runs the village. onebemoin the Otherwise, roadthrough continue northonthesealed Wogo is1.5kmfromMataloko, which About 1kmfurtheronfromWogo,turn The volcanoisbestvisited inthewetsea- You can walk from Nage to Bena; just You canwalkfromNage toBena; ancestor tombsare stillused sagi

fights with lumps of fights ojek tothevil- Loa,

Mangaruda Mata AirPanas Mata Mangaruda the hotwater it’seasytoforget all that. beneath thesmallwaterfall andwallow in from theatmosphere, butasyouclamber buildings,which detractof half-finished to Boawae. Unfortunately, there are lots available. andmealsare guesthouse, is adelightful church. Inlushgardensbytheriver, this river andthenaroundtotheleftnear Bunga andfollowitfor1.5kmdown tothe take theroad nexttotheWismaNusa Bunga.tion thanWismaNusa To get here, Bugis stilt-house community. Bugis stilt-house and mangroves that ishome toa Muslim descript, andithasashoreline of mud-flats August). in withIndonesia’s IndependenceDay(17 decided onthenumber asaconvenient tie- 21 islands,butthe government authorities Park, there are actuallymore thanMarine the area isknownas the lent snorkelling over reefs. intact Though islands withwhite-sand beaches andexcel- jawa liesopposite ascattering of offshore This quietfishing village 72kmfromBa- RIUNG but broken glass. blood. Theirgloves maybestuddedwith bark thathave painted been withanimal The boxers weargarmentsmadeof tree of festivities. theMay toAugustharvest messy formof boxing called rituals take placehere, andanequally Bajawa-area ikat.Gorybuffalo-sacrifice sible todointherainyseason. next morning,butthehike maynotbepos- thenatwo-hourascentearlythe mountain, usually involves an overnight stoponthe climbed withaguidehired inthevillage. It nung Ebulobo.Thissmokingvolcanocanbe Nage-Keo of people. Itsitsatthebase toEndeandisthecentrehighway forthe Boawae is41kmfromBajawa onthe BOAWAE 2500Rp) highway, hasclean,simplerooms. highway, A more popularsite isthedeveloped Riung itself isspreadRiung itself outand fairly non- Few visitors bothertostopatBoawae, This isthesourceof mostof thebest Hotel SaoWisata Hotel Wisma NusaBunga , pasttheairportonbackroad (r 40,000Rp) FLORES ••Boawae

(r from25,000Rp)

( admission hot springs; Seventeen Islands Seventeen isabetter op- etu , onthe ispart

557

Gu- NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA and the Seventeen IslandsMarineand theSeventeen Park. Riung, foramagnificent viewof thecoast , about3kmfrom Hike uptoWatujapiHill Komodo dragons theyaretion, though nowvery rare indeed. tobeanattrac- with yellowmarkingsused 558 Nur Iklas. Bugis village ataformerhotel known as cluding allgear. You’llfindAwinginthe dives cost600,000Rpto750,000Rp,in- Divemaster whotrainedinTimor. Two with AwingMuhammed,anexperienced inland tofeed). astheyhead sky aroundRiungatsunset ing foxes. huge (These fruitbatsblacken the which hasamassiveOntoloe, colonyof fly- included intheboattrip,including Pulau ally extra. Three orfourislandsare usually the harbour. Rentingsnorkel gear isusu- negotiate directly withtheboatowners in aguide,orperhaps 175,000Rpifyou use (for uptosix,notincludinglunch) if you boat isnoteasy.Adaytripcosts250,000Rp the July-August sosharinga season, high therethough are few peopleintownoutside organise Guides willappearatyourhotel offering to Sights &Activities 6pmand8pmonly. between village. Electricityisnormallyrestricted to 2006, providing mobilephoneaccesstothe mast wasduetobecomeoperationalinlate piah. Atthetimeof research anewphone guides mayexchange greenbacks forru- cash,oroneofCome withenough the any exchange facilitieswhenwevisited. by thedock. (plus 5000Rpboatfee) booth ataseparate must signinandpay10,000Rpperperson ited goingtotheislandsyou guides.Before formation about theRiungarea andaccred- The PHKA officeon themaindraghasin- Information tourism. ards have slippedwith thedownturn in unfortunatelyaround town, though stand- There scattered are homestays several Sleeping &Eating 50,000/60,000Rp) On theshore aroundRiung It’s alsopossiblego There’s aBNIbank,butitdidn’toffer Florida Hotel FLORES ••Ende to several of toseveral theislands, boat trips The first place onthe roadinto can still be seen occasionally. canstillbeseen (s/d 25,000/35,000Rp, with mandi diving intheislands giant iguanas giant

tablecloths offers tastylocalgrubandsellsbeer. placewithgingham thisfriendly ner) Behindthemarket, 20,000Rp, largebeer15,000Rp; the staff are informativethe staff abouttheregion. and there’s anairof in,though decaysetting town. Itsbestdayswere manymoonsago Rumah Makan Murah Muriah Murah Makan Rumah Riung: 40,000Rp). meals(dishes 15,000Rpto20,000Rp,set friendly, butthefoodhere isvery pricey and aTV. couldn’tbemore Thestaff have anadditionallivingarea withasofa Western toilets.Thesuperior-class rooms less roomswithdesks,reading and lights missionary-run placehasabsolutely spot- what self-obsessed localpartner.what self-obsessed owned byaSwisswomanandhersome- galows withopen-airbathrooms.It’sjointly six well-constructed detachedbamboo bun- itself. Nevertheless, some finemountain Nevertheless, itself. there’s in thetown gara, though little tosee Teng-nections totheotherislands inNusa and aircon- transport hub,withgood sea The port townof Ende is animportant % ENDE Bajawa departat5amand 11.30am. Riung–Ende bus leaves to at7am,andbuses the wildlywinding roadisreasonable. The three hours) leave at8amandnoon, fromBajawa (18,000Rp, Buses but sealed. The roadtoEndeisnarrowand bumpy at 1pmtoMbayandthenabemo to Riung. 6am. Theonlyalternative istotake abus four hours), abusleaves morningat every From Ndaoterminal inEnde(26,000Rp, &Away There Getting SotoSate Rumah 275,000/300,000Rp) place andcookmealsonrequest. Afriendlyoldcouplerunthe family house. basic roomswithmandisandverandas ina owners speaksomeEnglish. nice balconyarea andlarge rooms,plusthe stretch Madona, asHomestay Libertyhasa good sate. placethathas fast, lunch&dinner)SmallJavanese-style Homestay Madona There are onlyafew placesin eating Pondok SVD Liberty Homestay Liberty Nivana 0381 /pop80,000 Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com (bungalows 75,000Rp) Cleanasawhistle,this (dishes 6000-14,000Rp; (s/d 90,000/150,000Rp,superior

(r 40,000Rp) (r 35,000Rp) www.lonelyplanet.com h Anewplacewith (mains10,000- breakfast, lunch&din- On the same Onthesame Seven very Seven h break-

of theshopsare onthewestern sideof the Theoldportandmost south intothesea. Ende isattheneckof apeninsulajutting Orientation andMuslims. Christians split between Java. Todaythepopulationof Endeisevenly totheHinduMajapahitevents kingdomof tors mythicalexploitsandmagical through tocratic familiesof Endelinktheirances- Malay andMelanesian features. Thearis- Flores, inandaroundEnde,have amixof promontory tothesouth. port andlarger GunungIya,occupyinga cones of GunungMeja (661m)neartheair- scenery surroundsthetown,including www.lonelyplanet.com To Pulau Ende (14km) 4 1 3 2 ENDE Ὀ Teluk The peoplegathered insouth-central Ende Pasar 19 Hotel Safari...... Hotel NurJaya...... Hotel Mentari...... Hotel Ikhlas...... Hotel Flores...... Hotel DwiPutri...... Musium RumahAdat...... (see 6) Musium BungKarno...... Musium Bahari...... Tourism Office...... Sub-Post Office...... Main PostOffice...... Bank Danamon...... SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION ekm...... B2 Telkom...... Jl Pelabuhan Ikat Pasar Jl Pasar Soccer Field 18 16

Jl Bakti AC

Jl S. Riadi S. Jl Jl Kemakmuran Jl Hatta To NdaoTerminal(2km); 6 Mosque Bajawa (126km)

Jl Soekarno 1

22 Jl Kartini Jl 7 Jl Yos Sudarso5 8 Cathedral

Jl Perwira

3 Jl Sudirman Jl 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

D3 C3 B1 D3 B2 A1 A1 A1 A2 A2 C1 A1 Jl Jl Ahmad Yani Ahmad Jl Pahla 11 Transnusa...... Pelni...... Merpati...... Harbour Master’s Office...... Ferry TicketOffice...... (see 20) Bemo Terminal...... Bemo Stop...... Rumah MakanSederhana...... Rumah MakanAmperaPadang...... Pasar Potulando...... Hotel Ikhlas...... (see 10) TRANSPORT EATING ua aa saaBmu...... A2 Rumah MakanIstanaBambu......

(Protestant Church) n Gereja Salom 9 Gunung (661m) B Meja pembusu/Garuda Le Jl Jl Banteng Jl Patimura 4

Mosque Jl Subarkan Jl Church 12 14 per hour). international callsandalsooffers internet access(10,000Rp BNI bank Bank Danamon hours. will exchangeHotel Ikhlas moneyafter MONEY Telkom Office ACCESSINTERNET &TELEPHONE Information withdrawals. tonoonSat)HasanATMFri, andoffers largercredit-card the airport, thisbankoffers thebestratesandhasanATM.the airport, the eastern side. neck. Themainport,Pelabuhan Ipi,ison 23 22 21 20 19 18 17 16 15 14 0 0 15 C2 C2 C2 A2 D2 D4 A3 A2 D2

(Bank Negara Indonesia; Jl Gatot Subroto)Near (BankNegaraIndonesia;JlGatot Jl Nangka Jl

Meja (1km) To Gunung Jl Kelimutu Jl 23 (Jl Kelimutu; Kelimutu; (Jl

Jl Ahmad Yani

2

(Jl Soekarno; Soekarno; (Jl Jl Gajah Mada Gajah Jl

Jl Adi Sucipto Adi Jl 21 Tari El Jl h Nggela (85km);Maumere(148km); FLORES ••Ende 13 h 20 Kelimutu (47km);Moni(53km); Wolotopo (8km);Ndoda 24hr) Hascheap 8am-3.30pm Mon- 17 Wolowana Terminal(5km); 10 To Waingapu(180km); Runway Pelabuhan D To JlGatotSubroto; Larantuka (174km) Ipi BNI Bank(200m);

Kupang (400km) Terminal Melati Jl Airport S AWU S EA 0.3 miles

500 m

559 NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA 25,000-50,000Rp, d40,000-60,000Rp) market probably ashark ortwo. There isalsoan of fish section and astartling gianttunaand mids of fruit,food,tea andclothesforsale not abadplacetopoke around,withpyra- 560 h Musium Rumah Adat Rumah Musium Nextdoor,the butlittleelse. tion of seashells posite HotelDwiPutri. admission 1000Rp; The ramshackle Ende hasafew of sights passinginterest. Sights Sub-post office postoffice Main POST Office Tourism schedules. informed about thelatest transportation The owners of are Hotel Ikhlas very well TOURIST INFORMATION frequent bemos make iteasyto get around. Accommodation isspread allover town, but Sleeping up-to-date informationandhasenthusiasticstaff.up-to-date beach of NangaNesa. walk fromWolowana alongtheblack-sand it’sa45-minutetwice aday.Otherwise, runfromEndeabout Bemos levels. several builton Ende andhastraditional houses another bemofromthere toNdona. quicker togoWolowana(5km)andtake be bemos toNdonafromEnde,butit might of of comesfromthe village thebestlocalstuff weaving, mostlyusingabstract motifs.Some has a villagestylised compoundinfront of itthat Mon-Sat) the isnow by theDutch andhisformerhouse weavingssells fromFlores andSumba. ern part oftown. ern part based onFrankensteinbased . he wrote plays,including riod furnishings remain, andthisiswhere Ikhlas Hotel Wolotopo isapproximately 8kmeastof The Endearea hasitsownstyleof ikat In 1933 wasexiledtoEndeSoekarno The Ndona, 8kmeastof Ende. There are some 7am-noon Mon-Sat) BungKarno Musium FLORES ••Ende (sacrificial stone altar). stonealtar). tubu musu(sacrificial isalarge, witha traditionalhouse Bahari Musium (cnr JlPabean &JlPasar; ( (Jl Yos Sudarso) Sells stamps;it’sop- Yos Sudarso)Sells (Jl % ( (Jl Gajah Mada) Outinthenortheast- Mada) Gajah (Jl h % waterfront market waterfront 21303; Jl Soekarno 4)Dispenses 21303; JlSoekarno 7am-8pm) 21695; fax22555; JlAhmadYani; s . Mostof theoriginalpe- (admission 1000Rp; (Maritime Museum; JlHatta; Museum; (Maritime (Jl Perwira; admissionfree;(Jl hasalarge collec- h Almost arole Doctor Satan, 7am-4pm) h

(Jl Pasar) (Jl 8am-2pm that ikat ikat is 65,000-95,000Rp, withair-con125,000-200,000Rp; 3500-12,000Rp; the foodisgreat value(see below ). ment canprovide travel information,and andmanage- friendly, well-informedstaff sunny courtyardare themostdesirable. The attherearmoderate prices–those arounda place hasplentyof tidy,neatlittleroomsat model forbudget hotels, thisvery well-run the bestyou’llfind thissideof Grimsby. 3500Rp, andthefish andchips here isamong and Western food–rice withveggies isjust restaurant hasbargain-priced Indonesian and freshly juices. squeezed food, freshlynese baked bread and cakes, with filling portionsof Indonesian andChi- asone of thebest placesintown, Ranks lando concentration of warungs,whilePasar Potu- The waterfront market area hasthebiggest Eating NurJaya Hotel tub andhotwater. into aVIPandyou’llget twobeds,abath There of are classes rooms;check several has aclassyfaçadebutisunder-patronised. This almostelegantlookingmodernhotel ful rear courtyard.Breakfast isincluded. omy classto‘VIP’,alloverlooking apeace- rooms, each withtwobedsand,fromecon- step upmarket andhasachoice of spacious thisisa nextdoortoHotelRight Ikhlas, d 50,000/60,000Rp,withair-con100,000/150,000Rp; 30A; mains 7000-18,000Rp; 250,000Rp; Hotel Flores Hotel has arestaurant. afridgeyou need andaTV. Thehotel also class arestandard unless quite sufficient really have asparkle about them.The con roomswithtiledfloors andwardrobes snacks, fruitandvegetables. overpriced –but it’s worth considering. considering. –butit’sworth overpriced cheaper optionsare scruffyandtheair-condoublesare a 100,000Rp,VIPr175,000Rp; 50,000Rp, withair-con&TV place that is always kept pretty clean. place thatisalwayskept family-run shared mandi25,000Rp)Simplebutserviceable Safari Hotel Rumah Makan IstanaBambu Makan Rumah Mentari Hotel DwiPutri Hotel Or try: Ikhlas Hotel ) Unlovelyplacewithfiveclassesofrooms–the (Jl Kelimutu) (Jl Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com a ( % h ) These excellent light, airyair- excellentlight, These ( ( ( % % % 21075; JlSudirman28;economyr breakfast, lunch&dinner) ( is a night market isanight thatsells

% ( 21695; fax22555;JlAhmad Yani; dishes 21252; JlAhmadYani 20;rwith % 21997; JlAhmadYani 65;economys/ 21802; Jl Pahlawan 19;r150,000- 21802; JlPahlawan 21685; JlYosSudarso;rwithfan h www.lonelyplanet.com breakfast, lunch& dinner) (Jl Kemakmuran Kemakmuran (Jl This hotel This hotel a a ) )

Pelni office east toSabuandKupang.Visitthe helpful andSurabaya andonthereturnBadas route Pangrango to Kupang,Kalabahi The andLarantuka. and east andBenoa, Waingapu, Lembar westto Awusails twoweeks. Ende every dishes 4500-10,000Rp; tions are rough. small fastferry, butthisstopswhencondi- hours) on ato Kupang(58,000Rp,seven bour. There are services alsotwice-weekly heading toKupang.Buytickets atthehar- beforeday night, loopingbackagainand (42,500Rp, sixhours) leave EndeonThurs- and two weekly toBima.and twoweekly Waingapu andAlor. Merpati with connectionstodestinationssuch as someviaMaumere)to Kupang(11weekly, 2-4pm Mon-Sat) BOAT 37) search, information inadvance. Atthetimeof re- Tenggara,ern Nusa soalwayscheck flight Schedules change few every months ineast- AIR &Away There Getting Sederhana Makan Rumah www.lonelyplanet.com terminal, where for east- you catch buses It’s about 5km from townto Wolowana BUS &KIJANG quently. port, 2.5kmsoutheastfromthetowncentre. dock atPelabuhan Ipi,which isthemain and iswellconnected tootherislands.Ships Ende isthemajor portforsouthernFlores harbour master’s officeatPelabuhan Ipi. askattheother destinations; fordetails, is impossibletodefine. schedule,to aweekly butthedayitleaves Surabaya, calling atEnde. Itrunsroughly operates Nangka) dishes 5000-8000Rp; Rumah Makan AmperaPadang Makan Rumah wasvery wellconnected, offering flights Pelni’s Departure is6000Rp. tax The followingschedules change fre- Other boats sail irregularlyOther boatssail and tothese Good Padang restaurants: Dharma LautanUtama has three weekly flights toKupang hasthree flights weekly Transnusa ASDP Kirana Kupang and IIbetween ( Awu andPangrango % sails fromEndetoWaingapu, sails . ( 21043; Jl Kathedral 2; 21043; JlKathedral % h h ( 22007) % breakfast, lunch&dinner) breakfast, lunch&dinner)

24222; fax 23592; Jl Kelimutu 24222; fax23592;JlKelimutu

ferries toWaingapu ( % ( % (Jl Kelimutu 31;most Kelimutu (Jl 21927; JlAdiSucipto) 24481; Jl Kelimutu; 24481; JlKelimutu; h ( % 8am-noon & stop in 21355; Jl legend has it thatthe souls of the dead pinpoints tothelakes. the craters and sunshafts addluminescent phere, especially whenclouds billow across summit gives Kelimutu an ethereal atmos- Themoonscapearoundthe rainy season. als, aprocessthat canaccelerate inthe flux duetodissolving miner-in constant and the 1960slakes were blue,red-brown were blue,maroonandblack,whileback in lake darkgreen. Afew years agothecolours neighbour chocolate brown andthethird largest its wasaniridescent turquoise, periodically change hue –onourvisitthe Tenggara.in Nusa Astonishingly, thelakes are undoubtedlysight themostspectacular a volcano,thecoloured lakes of Kelimutu inplungingcraters atthesummitofSet KELIMUTU bemo stoponJlHatta (neartheoldport). bemo onthestreet; ifnot,pickoneupatthe flat rate of 1000Rp. Youcaneasilyflaga where Pelabuhan intown(even Ipi)fora around 15,000Rp. for ing furtherintotownshouldtake ataxi andSafaricanwalk,butothers head- Ikhlas athotelsplanning onstaying such as the The airportisjusteastof thecentre. Those Around Getting ( at least one every dayoperatedat leastoneevery bySimpati 60,000/50,000Rp,4½hours). There’sseat also leave EndeforMaumere (front/rear and Riung(26,000Rp,fourhours) at6am. (44,000Rp, five hours) at7amand11am; bajo (105,000Rp, 15hours) at7am;Bajawa (70,000Rp, ninehours) at7.30am;Labuan- road. Departures fromEndeare toRuteng terminal, 2kmnorthof townonthebeach tuka leaves at7am(ninehours). leaves bustoLaran- at7am,andathrough fare toMaumere. through AbustoNggela will dropyouinMonibutcharge thefull at 7am,9amand4pm.Maumere buses to Maumere (37,000Rp,five hours) leave hours) operate from6amto2pm.Buses ern Flores. toMoni(14,000Rp, two Buses % Kelimutu issacred tolocal people, and that thelakes’It’s thought colours are runfrequently tojustabout every- Bemo Kijang jeeps thatoperateKijang jeeps asshared taxis headingwestleaveBuses from theNdao 23777) café aulait. ; callthemfirst forapick-up. FLORES ••Kelimutu 561

NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA brilliance in the sunlight. Iftheweatherbrilliance inthesunlight. lakening andtheturquoise reaches itsfull perished here recently. the screeandacoupleof isloose hikers scramble aroundthefringes of thecraters – lakes are visible. to It’snotatalladvisable out, InspirationPoint,fromwhere allthree Kelimutu, insilence,toyourself. or intheafternoon have andyoumayeven natural wonder. Visitinthe rainyseason too hardtofindapeacefulspotenjoythis thenit’snot andeven season, August high visitors make ithere outsideof theJuly– tive isolationmeansthatsurprisingly few of Kelimutu’sthe base themountain. rela- up tothelakes from Moni,13.5kmawayat Dutch times,andtodaythere’s road asealed Lake). ofthose thewicked toTiwi Polo(Black Ata cold of Tiwi and Mbupu(BrownLake) Ata Fai oldpeople’s tothe Lake), (Turquoise to thewarmthof Tiwu NuwaMuriKoo lakes:go tothese youngpeople’ssoulsgo 562 To Saga Green Danau 1 3 2 Shelter KELIMUTU AREA Pray for a sunny day – sunrise is stun- Pray forasunnyday–sunrise look- There’s uptothehighest astaircase since The volcanohasattracted sightseers FLORES •• Kelimutu FLORES ••Kelimutu EATING SLEEPING INFORMATION ai...... D3 Maria...... Restaurant NusaBunga...... Restaurant Kelimutu...... Chenty Restaurant &Café...... Bintang Restaurant...... Arwanti Restaurant...... (see 2) Watugana...... Sao RiaWisata...... Hidayah...... Arwanti Homestay...... Woloaru Bookshop...... Wartel...... (see 2) Turquoise Point Inspiration Danau AC Danau Brown 12km Marker Kelimutu Gunung (1640m) Wolokolo 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 D3 C1 D3 C3 D3 C1 C3 C3 D2 9km Marker Waturaka B Liasembe 8km Marker Pome here. Kelimutu atitsbest. isreally worthseeing is notgood,comebackthenextday– worth consideringatriptoKelimutu later in have, orhire, yourowntransport,it’swell fer tolinger andwalkdownlater. ofturquoise thebiggest lake –sosomepre- fringes of thebrownlake andthestartling full beauty–therusty-red huesaroundthe thesunbringoutlakes’ little timetosee turn journeytoMoniisat7am,which is too walk tothefirst of thecrater lakes. The re- person. Fromthecarparkit’sa15-minute way up,where youhave topay2000Rpper turn perperson. There’s aPHKA posthalf- anywhere inMoniandcosts15,000Rpre- 4am fromyourhotel; aridecanbearranged pickingyou upat with trucksorminibuses in. Localtransportistimedtoreflect this, the earlymorningbefore thecloudsmove mutu. It’snormallybesttoviewthelakes in forvisiting Keli-Moni istheusualbase &Away There Getting 7km Marker coffeeEnterprising andsnacks localssell If the skies look particularly clear and you If theskieslookparticularlyclearandyou PHKA Post 6km Marker 0 0 Mata AirPanas 5 Short Cut Koposili Moni Village Manukako To Ende(52km) Air Terjun 9 2 7 3 Mboti Nuadepi 8 Rumah 100 m Kopobhobe Adat Woloki www.lonelyplanet.com 6 Moni Village Wolojita (25km); To Jopu(19km); Potu See Enlargment Pasar Nggela (32km) 1 4 10 Woloara 0.1 miles Koposenda D Sare Hotel(1.5km); Wolowaru (13km); Maumere (96km) Moni Village Not toScale To Flores Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com as attheparkingarea forKelimutu. few alongMoni’smain street, stalls aswell here.gions canbebought You’llalsofind a Cloth fromtheNggela and Maumere re- Moni’s church Mondaymorning. every spreads over theplayingfieldinfrontof of blueandrusty-red. Acolourfulmarket ikat weaving: piecesadornedwithbands Ende language andare renowned fortheir Wolowaru. Liopeoplespeakadialectof the which extends fromeastof Endetobeyond Maumere roadintheheartof theLioregion, good placeforwalks. It isscenic,coolerthanthelowlandsanda to Flores’ maintouristattraction,Kelimutu. asthegateway soaring peaks,which serves Moni isapretty village, nestledamong MONI drinks andbreakfast. villages through wherepasses localsserve the summit.Thispathisnoshorter, butit near the8kmmarker, about5.5kmfrom and Pome,reaching theKelimutu road viathevillagesKoposili andgoes of Mboti about 6kmoffthejourney. 750m fromthecentre of Moni.Thiscuts PHKA postandreaches about thehighway cut) leaves theroadbacktoMoniat A and isn’ttootaxing. more becomeseven spectacle moving. of returns themountain andthenatural hasgone–thesilence the daywheneveryone www.lonelyplanet.com ket, the high-thatched In the kampung (village) opposite themar- Sights & Activities mutu postcards. and exchanges booksaswellKeli- used area from50,000Rp per person, andsells birding tripsand guidedwalksaroundthe centre of Moni.Dutch ownerMark leads the WoloaruBookshop, 1.5kmfromthe best sourcesof informationin thearea is Other therewise are nophonesinMoni. buttheratesHomestay, are extortionate. with cash.There’s awartel atArwanti change rates onoffer are appalling –come There are nobanksinMoniandtheex- Information The village isstrungalongsidetheEnde– Another pathbranches offtheshortcut at The walkdowntakes about2½hours Apart from the guesthouses, oneofApart fromtheguesthouses, the

jalan potong rumah adat serves (short- helpful. bealittlemore couldcertainly the staff Unfortunately, theycouldbecleaner,and bathroom withshowerandafront veranda. nishings, twobedrooms,asitting room,a galows, each equippedwithbamboofur- place hasthree attractive spacious bun- clean. Breakfast isthrownin. rooms and Western toilets,are basic but and bungalows, somewith attachedbath- hot water isplanned. priced detached bungalowswithverandas; above ifover- Moni.Ithaswell-maintained perched insplendidisolationonthehillside breakfast. nana pancakes is thestaple orfruitsalad bathroom make thisapopularplace. Ba- rooms withbig beds, mossienetsanda the orderyouapproach themfromEnde. placesare These along thehighway. listed in in thebudget category andquite spread out reasonable. Accommodationisvirtuallyall years hashitMonihard,andpricesare very The downturnintouristnumbers inrecent Sleeping pretty ricefields. bamboo hutsnexttoaburblingbrook and performances as aculturalcentre of sorts. a busortruckbacktoMoni. Nggela orloopbacktoWolowaruandcatch Energetic typescouldwalkonto villages several to through from Moni).FromWoloara,continueon the church to Anothershortwalkissouthpast in theright. bathe here –menintheleftpool,andwomen This isthevillage swimming andmataairpanas(hotsprings). (waterfall),for withapoolbigenough terjun centre of Moni,paths leaddowntoa10m About 750malongtheEnderoadfrom there are otherwalksfrom several Moni. Ask aroundatothertimes. of JulyandAugust. during thepeakseason bungalows 125,000Rp) 165,000Rp) Watugana Flores Sare Hotel Sare Flores Hidayah Hidayah Maria Sao Ria Wisata Sao Ria Arwanti Homestay Apart fromthetrek to/fromKelimutu (r 50,000Rp,bungalows 75,000Rp) Viewed from theroad itlooks (s/d 40,000/50,000Rp) (s/d 40,000/60,000Rp) (20,000Rp) (about 2.5km Potu andWoloara(about2.5km Government-owned place (small bungalows75,000Rp,larger mandi andvisitors canalso

(s/d 75,000/100,000Rp) ( % are heldinfrontof it FLORES ••Moni 038121075; r100,000 & Jopu (about 5km). Traditional dance Simple,clean

Ramshackle and Wolojita and Rooms This

563

air air NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA is slow and the staff are distracted.is slowandthestaff menu, butthefoodisvery plain,theservice the part,withstylishdécoranda tempting h bubble andsqueak. ern food.TrytheMonicakes, asortof spicy cheap andcheerful IndonesianandWest- h road incentralMoniandhasgoodviews. place toeatintown.It’sperched above the Indo suspects,thisisprobably thebest owner andwell-pricedmenuof theusual of make thehomestays ‘bookings’, which ona pig ifyou’rerice or even lucky.Some ofyou’ll be sittingintheaisle onasack Sometimes foraseat. come, first served Moni they canbecrowded, andit’sfirst later ataround 7pm. intheevening ataround 9amor10amandthen through comingthe firstfrom Endestart buses leave onMonday, Moni’smarket day. noon. Many andtrucks additionalbuses there’s abusallthewaytoLabuanbajo at ataround7am,and two hours),start buses west of Maumere. ForEnde(14,000Rp, Moni is53kmnortheastof Endeand98km &Away There Getting such atinyplace. The choice of restaurants ispretty goodfor Eating bedspreads. theflowery big beds.Grannywouldlurve ceilingsand ingly orderlyroomswithhigh there are somevery spaciousandsurpris- thelargepass through adjoiningrestaurant buildingsite, butifyou like ahalf-finished 564 gravitates here whenMoniisbusy. andaction oftendonesian food.Thenoise of thevillageof withagoodselection In- ular placeabove themain roadinthecentre though speedy the service ain’t. theservice speedy though thatched roof hasIndo andWestern food– thisattractive placewitha Sao RiaWisata, h h h Restaurant Kelimutu Restaurant Arwanti Restaurant Restaurant NusaBunga Restaurant As most of stopmidroute in thebuses For Maumere (23,000Rp,three hours), &Café Chenty Restaurant Bintang Restaurant breakfast, lunch&dinner) breakfast, lunch&dinner) breakfast, lunch&dinner) breakfast, lunch&dinner) breakfast, lunch&dinner) FLORES ••AroundMoni

Long-running,pop-

Right nextdoorto Right Withanengaging (mains 11,000-18,000Rp; (dishes 6000-15,000Rp; Tiny placewith

(dishes 9000-20,000Rp; It certainly looksIt certainly

(dishes 5000-15,000Rp; (dishes 6000-17,000Rp; 15,000Rp) and charge youextra. usually meanstheywillhailabusforyou off fromthemainroadinWolowaru. a mealbreak. stopatthisrestaurantand mostbuses for here –check schedules attheJawa Timur – Wolowaru. Afew originate morningbuses Kelimutu. nexttoHotela popularplaceandisright should paylessif thedyesaren’t natural). which are becomingmore common (you and watch outforbrighter syntheticdyes, in earthyred, brownororange. Bargain hard rich dark brownbackgrounds,withpatterns the wearer. Nggela ikattypicallyhasblackor shawls of thisregion indicatedof thestatus times thesize,colourandpattern of theikat to watchattheirwork. In former theartisans among thefinestinFlores, andyou’llbe able still usingmanynaturaldyes.Theweaving is is theweaving, usuallydonebyhandand tion above thecoast,butchief attraction you approach thevillages. oftenstalls springupbefore youreyesas Wolowaru andthesouthcoast.Impromptu andothervillages found inthese between Beautiful Nggela &Wolojita andshawlscanbe ikat sarongs market day. around 9am,exceptonSaturday,themain daily morningmarket thatwindsdownat villages of Wolojita andNggela. There’s a fortheikat-weavingMoni, isahandybase the Maumere roadjust13kmsoutheastof The village of along Wolowaru, straggling Wolowaru AROUND MONI road atWolowaru and heads toWolojita ity, butnot Nggela’s fine location. Nggela andhasweavings of asimilar qual- be foundinMoni. of theauthenticvillage experience thancan visitorsin Nggela for those whowantmore Rumah Makan JawaTimur Makan Rumah ities forablutions.Forauthenticlocalfood, The roadtothefollowingvillages branches All Maumere–Ende stopin buses Homestay NggelaPermai Nggela isworthavisitforitshilltop posi- The A road branches off theEnde–Maumere Wolojita isabout 7kminland from hassimpleroomswithshared facil- Hotel Kelimutu Hotel

www.lonelyplanet.com (mains 6000-13,000Rp) (

% (s/d 20,000/30,000Rp) 41020; s/d10,000/ is is in 1992an earthquake andresulting 20m betrayitsrecentdecay brutally history– Its crumblingconcrete buildingsandairof Timor, youmaywellenduphere foranight. to Flores, and andwellconnected withBali place, butasit’soneof themaingateways of The seaport Maumere isapretty forlorn % MAUMERE going backtoWolowaru. day,butthereon thesame beatruck might It wouldbepushingittodothereturn walk springs (askforthe the roadortake ashortcutpastthehot road asitrunsintoNggela. particularly onthedownhillstretch of the The volcano-studdedsceneryisbeautiful, fromthere.you couldjustaseasilystart 3km furtherfromMoniviaWoloara,so Nggela fromWolowaru.It’sonly2kmor walkto it’sagoodhalf-day’s Otherwise, ing Moniatabout9amandthenWolojita. day leaves Endeat 6amforNggela, pass- (12km) andNggela (19km).Onebusper www.lonelyplanet.com

1 19 3 2 MAUMERE Jl Wairklau Jl Baru Pasar From Wolojita toNggela, eitherfollow 0382 /pop50,000 9 6 To StevaniPub(5km);

Bintang Disco(7km) Stadium Anggrek Jl To EndeBusTerminal (1.5km); Ledalero (18km); Nita(20km); AC Sikka (26km); Moni(98km); Jl Gajah Mada Cathedral Ende (148km)

Jl Ahmad Yani Ahmad Jl Jl Nong Meak jalan potong keNggela

Baru Utara Jl Pasar JPL–Flores 17

Jl Suryo Pranoto 16 Jl Slamet Riyadi Slamet Jl 18 Station Police Hotel Nara (2km)

Jl Pasar Baru Barat 13 Tours (250m); 12 Statue To Tamasya B

Jl Moa Toda 1 Jl Pasar Baru Timur Bandeng Jl Pier 15 10 3 5 8 INFORMATION ekm...... B3 Telkom...... Tourist Office...... Post Office...... Comtel...... BNI Bank...... Bank Danamon......

). Boat toKupang;

Jl Soekarno Hatta Raja Jl Jl Hasanuddin Jl

Surabaya

2 Tomas Don Jl Soetomo Jl 4 bookings forplanesandboats. rental, tripitinerariesorjustmake tailor transport informationandcanarrange car travel agenciesSeveral offer up-to-date Information cessible alternative intown. tostaying also linethiscoast,offering a temptingly ac- tsunami. Astringof beach bungalowresorts reefs which are steadily recovering after the once-legendary Maumere gardens,coral sea town toikat-weaving villages andeasttothe 400 years ago. Dominicansarrivedsince Portuguese some of activityandmissions inFlores Catholic This area oneof hasbeen thechief centres centralFlores east between andLarantuka. languagenese andculture, which extends airthatlingersthe postapocalyptic on. ing pigsandgoats,which onlycompounds rubbish linethestreets, nibbledbymaraud- the town’srecovery, moundsof however: thorities appeartohave donelittletohelp here.tsunami killedthousands Thecityau- Jl Pos Soccer 11 Some interesting tripscanbemadeoutof The townisthemajor centre of theSikka- Field 7 Jl Patirangga Geliting Teluk Mosque

6 5 4 3 2 1 0 0 Jl MTHaryono Jl

A3 C3 B2 B3 B2 Jl Kelimutu Jl TRANSPORT SHOPPING EATING SLEEPING ooHrpnJy...... B3 Toko HarapanJaya...... Transnusa...... Pelni...... Dharma...... Bemo Terminal...... JPL–Flores...... Rumah MakanBunaken...... Ikan BakarJakarta...... Golden FishRestaurant...... Café Borobodur...... (see10) Hotel WiniRaiII...... Hotel WiniRai...... Hotel Maiwali...... Gardena Hotel...... FLORES ••Maumere Waiterang (26km);Larantuka(127km) Watublapi (19km);Ahuwair(24km);

Bus Terminal(3km);Waiara(9km); Jl Yos Sudarso Yos Jl WaiOtiAirport(3km);Lokaria PT FloressaWisata(500m);

D Wisma Pelita(2km); To Merpati(500m); 0.3 miles 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 500 m 9 8 7

565 A2 B1 B2 B2 B1 B1 B1 C2 B3 A3 B2 C2 NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA 566 BNI. Internetaccessisalsoavailablehere. ressa-bali.com; JlYani 50) noticeboard too. inFlores, thisplacehasauseful internet connection have hot-water bathtubs. cover a widerange of budgets andsome Waiara and Waiterang (see Waiara andWaiterang (see p568 ). inplaces alongthe roadtoLarantuka chilled there beach base, are good several Maumere, Forareally littleelse. though There’s afairlygoodbudget in selection Sleeping Contact Tours office Tourist TOURIST INFORMATION Tamasya Tours Wisata PT Floressa TRAVEL AGENCIES Telkom office TELEPHONE Post office POST BNI bank Bank Danamon MONEY Comtel ACCESSINTERNET per person. across theislandcostaround6,000,000Rp in Flores. Fullyinclusivetrips seven-day reliable travelagency. .com; JlTubin 35A)Runbytheirrepressible Ignas,thisisa advances –upto5,000,000Rpwitha50,000Rpcharge. with somepersuasion,thestaffwilldocredit-card cash bottom endare extremely simple, while the There are of five at the classes rooms; those from the centre butapretty decent choice. way, this has limited literature and practical information. way, thishaslimitedliterature andpractical the bestratesintownanATM. from 78,000/98,000Rp; Tomas 40;s/dwithfan 41,000/46,000Rp,withair-con organised tours. andoffers company canbookboatandairlinetickets office,thisefficient totheMerpati .floressa-bali.com) Next 33,000-220,000/49,000-275,000Rp; Wini Rai Hotel Maiwali Hotel FLORES •• Maumere FLORES ••Maumere (Jl Bandeng 1;perhr10,000Rp; (Jl (Bank Negara Indonesia; Jl Soekarno Hatta)Has (BankNegaraIndonesia;JlSoekarno (Jl Pos) Next tothesoccerfield. Pos) Next (Jl PT Floressa Wisata PT Floressa ( (Jl Soekarno Hatta; Soekarno (Jl % ( (Jl Pasar BaruBarat)HasanATM (Jl and, % 21652; JlWairklau)Welloutofthe ( ( ( % 21796; ignas_maumere@yahoo % % a about organised tours aboutorganised 21220; fax 22977; Jl Raja Don 21220; fax22977;JlRaja 22281; JlYani 50;www 21388; Jl Gajah Mada 50;s/d Mada 21388; JlGajah ) Afairoption;rooms h a ( % 24hr) Opposite ) a About 1km 22281; www.flo ) Thebest you’re welcometobring yourown. but beer, sell withchilli. It doesn’t dosed-up alldishesarestyles –though generously shrimp andchicken cooked inavarietyof huge portionsof squid, placeserves nese the port,thisexcellent,inexpensive Java- Rai II Rai branch inthecentre,second the totheEnde(west)busterminal. A It’s close best roomsare wellappointed andspacious. and Indonesianstaples. fresh seafood expensive restaurants serving the harbour,where you’llfindarowof in- The mostenjoyableplacetoeatis downby Eating 215,000Rp, d250,000-290,000Rp; construction. time of research arestaurant wasunder ojeks andbemospassbyregularly. Atthe it’s about2.5kmfromthecentre, though Thedrawbackisthat wardrobes andTVs. and very spaciousroomswith goodbeds, new placehasabsolutely bargain-priced management astheGardena,this efficient and rates includebreakfast. willhelpoutwithtravel connections, staff have Western-style bogs.English-speaking and theen-suite bathroomsare cleanand fan-only roomshave sprungmattresses, a quietstreettothecentre. close Even the is avery placein wellrunandhospitable First choice incentralEnde,theGardena Bintang. Bintang. like Italso offerstor isbeyond serious. specials again the chilli –though fac- for seafood is another good,casualwaterfront choice moreSlightly pricey thanitsneighbour, this mains 10,000-18,000Rp; 9000-12,000Rp; 50,000/60,000Rp, withair-con100,000/120,000Rp; dise variety.Breakfastdise isincluded. thebeachthough isnotof thetropicalpara- location, design. Wismaenjoysaseafront ifalittleanonymousin enough, fortable air-confortable motel-style rooms are com- airport, 2kmfromthecentre, com- these with air-con100,000/120,000Rp; room categories andprices. Bunaken Makan Rumah Jakarta Bakar Ikan Wisma Pelita Nara Hotel Hotel Gardena (grilled chicken) and sells ( % Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com 21362; JlSoetomo) h ( % ( breakfast, lunch&dinner) % ( 22001; s/dwithfan50,000/60,000Rp, % 21732; JlSudirman33;s175,000- 22644; JlPatirangga; s/dwithfan h ( % breakfast, lunch&dinner) www.lonelyplanet.com 081 23795559;mostdishes a has near-identical ( ) % Under the same Underthesame a 081 339448814; ) Nearthe Hotel Wini Hotel Right by Right a )

35,000Rp; town, on the seafront. town, ontheseafront. afterIt’s5kmwestofnights midnight. raoke place,thishas somegrooving most but theviewisfarfromspectacular. It’sonthecoast, your victimfromthetank. that’s famousforitsfish andcrab–choose bargain high. hard,aspricesstart and otherartefacts are here, alsoonsale but Flores, Sumbaandotherislands.Carvings stock of weavings, includingsomeikatfrom 10,000-20,000Rp; variety. life isof thekaraoke andimported Java girls onSaturday.Mostnight- ally empty,even There’s it’susu- onediscointown,though Entertainment www.lonelyplanet.com Larantuka andKalabahi to theeast, andLarantuka to and Kalimantan tothe west, Pelni’s BOAT ( Maumere hasgoodairconnections. AIR &Away There Getting Toko HarapanJaya Shopping town. imported whisky.It’s7kmwestofit sells karaoke nextdoorispopularand section you like the dancingon yourown,though off themainroad totheairport. tions toJakarta. The signposted officeisjust and five withconnec- to/fromDenpasar to/from Kupang,fourLabuanbajo (229,000Rp). viaEnde goes thisflight days aweek toKupang;threedium, hasdaily flights the Hotel Wini Rai II. the Hotel WiniRai afan.Thecaféisnextdoorto to installing for acoffee ifmanagement gets ever round food.Dinerslinger even Indo-Italian might sandwiches,andIndonesian jaffles, Western tastes, withbreakfasts (15,000Rp), placethat’sfairlywellgearedif scruffy to % Bintang Disco Stevani Pub Stevani Transnusa Departure is 6000Rp. tax Golden Fish Restaurant Café Borobodur Café 21342; JlSudirman) sails fortnightly from Maumere fortnightly Awu sails h breakfast, lunch&dinner) ( % h ( h 21393; JlAnggrek 2) (

breakfast, lunch&dinner) h (Jl Pasar BaruTimur)(Jl ( 8pm-2am) % has five flights a week hasfive aweek flights 7pm-2am)

22858; JlSoetomo5;dishes

(Jl Hasanuddin; largefish (Jl Theoriginalka- Comehere if Priceyplace , bythesta- Has agood Simple Merpati

ally onetriptoeach destinationperweek. conditions,butthere’sdepends onsea usu- Kupang (115,000Rp).Thedayof departure Maumere withSurabaya(301,000Rp)and the fairlysmart port. regularly. cost 1000Rpandrunaroundtown Bemos BEMO pick upabemo(1000Rp)intotown. port totheMaumere–Larantuka roadto erang. It’sabouta1kmwalkoutof theair- 50,000Rp fromthebeach hotels inWait- to/fromtownis12,000Rp,or road. Ataxi town, 800mofftheMaumere–Larantuka Maumere’s WaiOtiairport is3kmfrom TO/FROM THEAIRPORT Around Getting at around7.30am. for Ende(50,000Rpperperson, 4½hours) Kijang shared alsoleave taxis thisterminal alsodepartfromhere.Sikka andLedalero todestinationssuch asand 3pm.Buses Ende (37,000Rp,five hours), bothat7am west toMoni(23,000Rp,three hours) and southwest of townistheplaceforbuses and sometimeslater inthedaytoo. rantuka (60,000Rp,three hours) at7.30am, jang shared alsoleave taxis fromhere toLa- 3km eastof town,at7.30amand3pm.Ki- Lokaria (orTimur) terminal, approximately Waiara, IpirandWodongleave fromthe hours), andbemostoGeliting, andbuses loaded. and thebaggage hasbeen around untilthere are passengers sufficient notprecisetainly –beprepared towait The departure timesgiven below are cer- There are twobusterminals inMaumere. BUS &KIJANG schedule of staggered payments before west shouldagree on anitinerary and a ganising roadtripstoMoni andfurther around the Maumere region. or- Those day, including driver andfuelfor trips Renting acarcosts around500,000Rpper CAR &MOTORCYCLE Kupang tothesoutheast. Jl SuryoPranoto) Dharma The Ende (or Barat) terminal 1.5kmThe Ende(orBarat) (32,000Rp,four toLarantuka Buses ( % isneartheentranceto 21091; Jl Nong Meak 2) 21091; JlNongMeak Kirana shipthatconnects FLORES ••Maumere Pelni operates ( %

21013;

567 NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA views over bothcoasts of Flores. beach. long androckyblack-sand lation. Ithasafew colonialbuildingsanda weaving centre, popu- which has aCatholic (3000Rp) runfrom Maumere toSikka. 20km fromMaumere. Regularbemos beautiful church dates from1899. wallahs assoonyouenter town. Sikka’s pounced onbyasmallarmyof ladyikat- of weaving; Sikkanese beprepared tobe Today it’sinteresting mainlyasthehome Maumere region untilthe20thcentury. tlements inFlores. Itskingsdominated the Sikka wasone of thefirst set- Portuguese On thesouthcoast26kmfromMaumere, &Lela Sikka seum road. Thechief attractionhere isthemu- which is18kmfromMaumere ontheEnde in seminary Roman Catholic Ledalero, Many priestsstudiedatthe Florinese &NitaLedalero AROUND MAUMERE by yourhotel. 50,000Rp perday)canusuallybearranged organise rental cars. Motorcycles(around andtheGardenaHotel canbothWisata departure. Thetravel agency PTFloressa 568 From here, walk to itisa pleasant Maumere andisa large mission. Catholic Watublapi isinthehills19km southeastof Watublapi Ende terminal. leave and Nita Ledalero fromMaumere’s to Bemos on IndonesianDevelopment). from INFID(International NGOForum and regulate here standards withhelp Tenun Lorun,hashelped improve IkatLepo cotton. Aweavers’ group,Kelompok Sentra good-quality localikat,madewithimported someextremelyshould beabletopurchase road andhasaThursday market, where you is customarytoleave adonation. together of culture. thejigsaw Florinese It It’sagoodplacetotrypiece sarongs. ing softly textured, -coloured oldJopu either rare ornolonger produced,includ- ikat, withdesignsandnaturaldyesthatare of historicstoneimplementsandFlorinese About 4km before another SikkaisLela, The roadtoSikkaleaves the Enderoad Nita is 2km beyond Ledalero onthemain is2kmbeyondLedalero Nita FLORES •• Around Maumere FLORES ••AroundMaumere (admission free) , which houses acollection , which houses Bola isa Ohe, for all gear. Theattractive diving costsUS$75fortwodives, including beach isso-so. Breakfast isincluded, and deluxe roomsare builtinachalet style. The superior roomshave huge verandas, and roomsarespacious: standard abitbare, décor. Allaccommodation isair-con and are lookingdated –think1970ssitcom clean, buttherooms,though helpful staff, US$15/20, withair-confromUS$20/25; Dunia Laut; simple bungalow operations – all well set simple bungalow operations – allwell set Maumere, toWodong close and Waiterang are 24kmto26km eastof coconut tree–shaded beaches Ahuwair alternative inEnde,thenarrow, tostaying awonderfullytranquil andrelaxedOffering Ahuwair &Waiterang well-run of Maumere, Waiarahastwo resorts. The are stillinrecoveryBesar mode. reefs aroundPulauPemana andPulau doingherbit,themarinelifehas been and many of thereefs. MotherNature Though 1992 earthquake and tidalwave destroyed one of Asia’s finestdive destinations,the Maumere gardens’.Onceregarded ‘sea as Waiara isthejumping-offpointfor Waiara s 75,000-250,000Rp,d100,000-350,000Rp; pick-ups forguests fromMaumere. a fee, the resorts canarrange drop-offs or is about500mfurther alongtheroad.For posted Flores fromthehighway; SaoResort to Waiara(2000Rp).Bothhotels are sign- busfromMaumereor Larantuka-bound including hire of scubagear) here too. rant andscubadiving(US$50for two dives have bigverandas. There’s agoodrestau- beachtwo bedrooms,frontthesandy and some with price, whilethebeach houses, bedspreads forthe andgoodcomfortlevels roomshavemissionaries. Standard niceikat Bola orIpir. withvillagersto stay orthe usually finish atBola. Itmaybepossible (5000Rp, 1½hours). Onotherdaysbemos day andbemosgothere fromMaumere village of Ipir.Market dayinIpirisMon- weavingfurther onisthetraditionalcoastal large village 6kmfromWatublapi,and2km Just off the Larantuka road9kmeast Just offtheLarantuka To get tothehotels, catch anyTalibura- % Flores SaoResort Flores 21570; www.sea-world-club.com;s/dfrom www.lonelyplanet.com Sea WorldClub Sea

( % kepala desa village. Three a 21555; fax21666; as ) isrunby (Pondok ) has in 35,000/40,000Rp) two-storey bungalow45,000Rp) two-storey include breakfast. parts, soit’snormallyvery tranquil. Rates Maumere. There’s notouristtrailinthese listed intheorderyouapproach themfrom 200m to500mfromtheroad;theyare anddownsidetracksfrom thehighway offered. In November whale-watching tripsare also dives, includingallgear andboattransfers. atAnkermi,based charges US$55fortwo a minimumof three people. Happy Dive, son, includinglunch andequipment, with the islandsforaround75,000Rpperper- hotels canorganise snorkelling tripsto Waiterang isnotthatimpressive. Allthe but thesnorkelling justoffthebeach in around dozensof dive sites in this region, sharks andfascinatingmacrolife proliferate (shallow mud-flats) toexplore. Mantas, reef baton, aJapanese wreck, andthe‘muck’ life andPulauPanga- aroundPulauBabi is impressive here, withplentyof marine ing memoriesof travel road inFlores. chill andhammock-swingawaythebruis- school –make thisagreat toseriously base up forbackpackers andonewithascuba www.lonelyplanet.com road. Take any Talibura, Nangahale or attractions. about nearby Dive scubaschool andlots of information boxes, excellent food,alibrary, theHappy back fromthebeach, safetybungalows set has simple,traditional wood-and-bamboo this Swiss-and Indonesian-owned place available forhire. order aheadforfresh fish.Snorkel gear is imaginatively – prepared foodisserved onthebeach,bungalows right and great, ple, attractive bamboo-and-coconut-wood on totravellers’ There needs. are sixsim- helpful, speaksgoodEnglish andisswitched aged bylocalvillager Henry, whoisvery a nicebar-restaurant area. friendly coupleSiska andSino,there’s lows withattachedmandisare runbythe 10simplewood-and-thatch bunga- these 40,000Rp) rdkm25;bungalowswithmandi .co.uk; Maumere–Larantuka All thefollowingplacesare signposted The varietyof dive andsnorkelling sites Wodong ison theMaumere–Larantuka Wodong BeachCottages Ankermi Sunset Cottages Extremely place man- hospitable ([email protected]; s/d30,000/35,000Rp, ([email protected]; Nextup,2kmfurtheron,

Alittlefurtheron, (s/d bungalowwithmandi (sunsetcottages@yahoo of penitents and cross-bearers. in town, when there are huge processions antuka today. are stillasignificant community inLar- and theirdescendents, called‘Topasses’, untilthe mid-19thcentury,in Larantuka apresenceby 1575.Portugal maintained than 20Dominican missionswere built from Timor.sandalwood Fortsand more seeking bythe Portuguese routes used tract European interest, as itlayonsea ways isolated, wasoneof thefirst toat- by boat. part fortheSolorArchipelago orKupang nottolingerchoose here andquicklyde- Pulau SolorandAdonara. Mostfolk byanarrowstraitfrom , separated Mandiri tuka nestles around the base oftuka nestlesaroundthebase attheeastern endofhouses Flores, Laran- A busylittleportof rustingtin-roofed % LARANTUKA arranged inWaiterang. bemo. Guidestotake youupEgon canbe from Waiterang –25,000Rpbychartered the finalscrambletotop.Bliditis6km day. Itisarelatively easyclimbapart from earlytoavoidshade, sostart theheatof the lesscomingdown.Thereslightly islittle climbed fromBliditinaroundthree hours, Egon erang isdominated bysmoking of coast. the bestwhite-sand beach onthisstretch Patiahu On thewaytoNangahale,roadpasses reached bybemoorbusfromWaiterang. afterBabi the1992earthquake. It’seasily fromPulau bysurvivors that wassettled dong, isaninteresting boat-building village , around10kmnortheastof Wo- Nangahale Around Waiterang to Maumere. it is bettercrowded; toget tofirst aseat go passing byare oftenLarantuka hopelessly to buses is around50,000Rp.Through orcharteredA taxi bemofromMaumere from WodongtoWaiterang costs1000Rp. terminal inMaumere (3000Rp).Abemo bemoorbusfromtheLokaria Larantuka Easter isaparticularly goodtimetobe Easter This cornerof al- Indonesia,though The landscapesouthwestof Wait- 0383 (1703m).Thisactive volcano canbe , 33kmfromMaumere, which has FLORES ••Larantuka Gunung Gunung 569

Ili NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA Solor. Adonaraand look forikatfromLembata, Jl Niaga. few along upintheevening warungs set in fillingportions andthefishisfresh. andIndonesian disheshereChinese come first choice, RMmay bemodest,butthe 570 manager hasthelatest ferry schedules. are Thehelpful English-speaking saggy. some withprivate this isadecentbudget hotel withcleanrooms, 32,000/49,000Rp, withair-con82,000/118,000Rp; Hotel Fortuna II Fortuna Hotel Sleeping &Eating bronzeandsilverguese knownas Maria a large cathedral,andthesmaller There’s flourishes in Larantuka. Catholicism Sights &Activities office quarter, andthetourist part of town.FurthernortheastistheIslamic the mainbusterminal are inthesouthern Hotels, theferry pier,shipping officesand &Information Orientation flights a week between Larantuka and Larantuka between a week flights At the timeof research Merpati had three AIR &Away There Getting inthischapel. andLatin in Portuguese therosary On Saturdaymorningwomensay 35,000/50,000Rp, withair-con80,000/110,000Rp; good alternative –it’svirtuallynext door. a nicelittlegarden.IfRuliesisfull, it’sa Has perfunctory,rathersoulless rooms,but class, are thebestinLarantuka. rooms withair-con, ifnotexactlybusiness best optionandhasspaciousrooms. The Of thethree Fortunasintown,thisisthe were intown. moured tobeopeninganATM whenwe money andtravellers cheques; itwasru- bank The Kupangferry pieristo the south.BRI which hasinternet access–andairport. 14,000Rp; Mon-Fri) 40,000/60,000/80,000Rp) Eating possibilities areEating limited, buta Rumah Makan Nirwana Makan Rumah Larantuka’s Larantuka’s Hotel Rulies Hotel Tresna Hotel (HolyMary Portu- Chapel)contains FLORES •• Larantuka FLORES ••Larantuka (Bank Rakyat Indonesia;JlUdayana) (Bank Rakyat , postoffice,Telkom office h breakfast, lunch&dinner) ( ( hassomeweaving – market % % Popular and family-run, Popularandfamily-run, mandi 21072; JlYosSudarso8;s/dfrom 21198; JlYosSudarso40;s/d/tr ( % 21383; s/dwithmandi , though some beds somebeds , though (Jl Niaga;dishes5000- (Jl Larantuka’s Larantuka’s willchange ornamento ( Kapela Tuan Kapela h ( h 8am-2pm 24hr) a a – ) ) .

call itsKupangofficeon buy tickets. Tocheck thelatest schedules, just acounter attheairportwhere youcan Kupang. There’s noofficeinLarantuka, Kelimutu connects direct withKupang, to Kupang, Kalabahigoes and Makassar. andMakassar. Benoa Lembar, rantuka. Thursday andSunday ataround4pm. leaveway, ferries to Larantuka Kupangon day at1pmfromWaibalun. Goingtheother hours), ferries departMondayandWednes- Heading toKupang (39,500Rp, around13 spray. unless youwant to besoaked insea (42,500Rp, 20hours). Sitontheupperdeck (Pantar)tinue toBaranusa andKalabahi on FridayandMondayat2pm and con- of townat7.30amand12pm. 9000Rp), departfromthepierin centre (Adonara, 8000Rp)andSolor(Lamakera, (15,500Rp, fourhours), allviaWaiwerang and water. Bringsomefoodboard earlytoget aseat. gestions. Allboatsget very crowded,so whenschedules areseason, more like sug- times inadvance,especiallythe rainy 1500Rp bybemo).Double-check departure at WaibalunPort(4kmsouth of town, one inthecentre of townandtheother Boats leave fromtwopiers inLarantuka, BOAT Several useful Pelni services callonLa- Pelni useful Several services Ferries leave WaibalunPortforLembata onLembata Wooden boatstoLewoleba riage, andagriculture survive. mar- house-building, name-giving, birth, and whoisDemon. Animist rites tomark has ceased,peoplestillknowwhoisPaji erupted. Today,thoughthehead-hunting to secure andhealthperiodically fertility warfareAdonara intheeast.Ritualistic the Paji, of whowere totheRajah linked ofSolorisland,andand thewestern parts the Demonpeople,centred onLarantuka area became dividedbetweenLamaholot probably before the16thcentury, At somestage,a language:Lamaholot. (Adonara, SolorandLembata), including with theislandsofSolorArchipelago areaThe haslonghadcloselinks Larantuka THE LAMAHOLOT Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com serves Kalabahi, Kupang,Awu serves www.lonelyplanet.com % 0380833833. Sirimau also Maumere isregular untilaround5pm. three-hour ridetoMaumere. Transportto cost 60,000Rpperperson foranair-con shared speedy at theterminal; these taxis four hours. You’llalsofindKijangswaiting Maumere cost32,000Rpandtake almost bus terminal are to/from pushy. Buses your hotel. sometimesdropyouat ornear town, buses aboutthis.Cominginto to yourhotel staff also pickupinthecentre of town–speak town, about1kmfromWaibalun,butbuses The mainbusterminal is5kmwestof the BUS ( on itswaytoWestPapua. The while www.lonelyplanet.com white-sand beach at Six kilometres isa northof Larantuka AROUND LARANTUKA about 3000Rp. also runtothepierandbusterminal for and JlPasar, andtooutlyingvillages. Ojeks (1000Rp)runupanddownJlNiaga Bemos Around Getting village witha on theroadtoMaumere and isatraditional antuka. by bemofromthecentralstop inLar- services, ortrythe services, Niaga) % (60km) Maumere To EAST FLORESREGION REGION SIKKA The toutsattheferry terminal and 21155; JlDiponegoro) forotheroptions. Tatamailau is 10km from Larantuka is10kmfromLarantuka Mokantarak Flores Pulau Boru rumah adat Mokantarak Asmara Danau Lewotobi Konga Larantuka Pulau Teluk Hading Teluk callsinatLarantuka has details onallPelni hasdetails harbour master’s office harbour master’s

; youcanget there Weri Ili Mandiri Gunung (1510m) Ebang Rita Lewoloba Waiklibang Lahayong . To Kupang (180km) Solor Archipelago

Selat Solor Pulau Solor Serbete Wailebe Pulau Flores Watanpau Selat Wureh Menanga Pelni office Waiwadan Waiwerang Terong Boleng Lamakera Puhu F LORESA Adonara Selat Pulau

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Ile Boleng Gunung (1660m) Sagu Harubala Lamaholot islanders areLamaholot incredibly friendly attention canget the wearing.Thatsaid, being thecentre constantly between, of foreignersand, because are sofew andfar parts, Indonesiatoget byinthese Bahasa degree)lesser Islam. despite thespread of and(toa Christianity are somealmostpurely animistvillages, produce distinctive ikatweaving, andthere linkstoTimor.sea town inthisregion, withexcellentairand in the1950s.Kalabahi (Alor)isthemain where sometribeswere stillhead-hunting of theAlorArchipelago, Pantar andAlor, opposite ). (see Lamaholot area: together theirpeopleare knownasthe culturallinkswiththeLarantuka has close islands formtheSolorArchipelago, which ditional whalingvillage ofThese Lamalera. main islandof interest of because the tra- isthe Furthereast,Lembata Larantuka. tled inthe16thcenturyandare to closest and Solorare where set- thePortuguese rated byswiftandnarrowstraits.Adonara islands stretches outeast of Flores, sepa- sible chain of volcanicandmountainous A remote and,untilrecently, very inacces- ARCHIPELAGOS SOLOR &ALOR Loang You’ll definitelyatleastsome basic need alltheislands The sceneryisspectacular, are themainislands Lembata Beyond Waijarang Tagawiti Waipukang To Kupang (180km) Tanjung Bota Ili Api Kalikasa Lewoleba Puor Lamalera SOLOR &ALORARCHIPELAGOS Jontona Mawa Welenga Api (1463m) Lamagute Gunung Ili Teluk Hadakewa Tokojaeng S AW U SEA 0 0 Lembata Pulau Balauring Ili Ujulewon Gunung (1540m) To Pantar(40km); Pulau Rusa Panama Selat Alor Alor (70km) Wairiang 12 miles

20 km

571 NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA coast). Afew bemos link themain villages. west coast)and Waiwerang (on thesouth areThe chief settlements Wailebe (onthe village and beingunable toremove them. ing herhands onasacred rockabove one footholds. Onetraveller reported even plac- Christianity and Islamhave fairlyloose fluential invillages inthehinterland, where out, traditionalways remain extremely in- extremesThough of animism have died and Paji theboxed groups(see text, p570 ). of theDemon case ritualconflictbetween burned–itwasveryand houses likely a years, withpeopleinthehillsbeingkilled The feud apparently ranforhundreds of derers’ of because afeud twoclans. between Adonara was knownasthe‘Islandof Mur- ADONARA trucks perweek. to more isolated areas islimited toafew have onlyonedecentroad, and transport butmostofand ancientbuses, theislands bothhaveAlor andLembata some bemos Around Getting Pamakajo (Solor). Portugal heldontoWurek (Adonara)and the Dutch, butuntilthemid-19thcentury wereguese forcedoutof eventually Solorby converts fromMuslimraids. ThePortu- Flores, andafortwasbuilttoprotect the for extending Christianitytomainland cism. TheSolormissionbecamethebase aboutspreadingon Solortoset Catholi- friarAntonioTaveiratuguese hadlanded middle of thecentury,DominicanPor- Alor(Lembata-Pantar Strait).Bythe Selat explorer Magellan’s through sailed fleet 1522 whentheonlyremaining shipof the wasmadeasearly European contact History and dive therich coralreefs offAlor. village onLembata, come tovisitLamalera MosttravellersSolor itself. inthisregion offer poorrates. Kalabahi), andbanksmoneychangers plenty of money–there’s onlyoneATM (in Bring Kalabahi (Lembata). and Lewoleba not great awayfromtheurbancentres of from. and interested inyouandwhere you’re 572 There’s ontheisland of notmuch tosee Food qualityandgeneral hygieneare SOLOR & ALOR ARCHIPELAGOS ••Adonara SOLOR &ALORARCHIPELAGOS look atthepearls you’re offered in townas out with them ondiving trips. Have agood are pearldivers andyou canarrange togo built out over the water. Some of itspeople town isaBajo stiltvillage 1000Rp. Below or becak(bicycle-rickshaw)for (small taxi) minute walkwestof town–take a islands. these village on guishes itfromany otherscruffy ings andaTelkom officeare allthatdistin- town. Acoupleof larger government build- isarelaxed onLembata, settlement little Api inthebackground, thechief Lewoleba, Despite theominoussmokingconeof Ili % Lewoleba rice isimported. papayas andcoconutsare grown,but most method of clearingland.Corn,bananas, villagersbata theslash-and-burn stilluse rest region, of manyLem- theLamaholot over themaintownof As Lewoleba. inthe and forthevolcano known forthewhalingvillage of Lamalera according togovernment It’sbest stats. a trickleof travellers –around200ayear isafascinatingisland thatattracts Lembata LEMBATA cannot bechanged. post office,awartel andabank,butmoney the islandandfromSolor. Waiwerang hasa Thursday attractvillagers fromthroughout Waiwerang’s markets onMondayand Waiwerang Pasar Baru) 200,000Rp. boat toSolorforupsixpeoplearound and Thursday.youcancharter Otherwise a era, Menanga onMonday andLahayong) and thetownsof northernSolor(Lamak- leaves ataround11pm. onFridayevening 1km westof town.TheboattoLamalera low tidetheymaydockatthecar-ferry port main wharfinthecentre of town,butat Waiwerang. Passenger ferries dockatthe callinat (7000Rp, twohours) onLembata Hotel Asri choice. isthesecond at thebackhave great viewsover thewater. spoken andmealscan bearranged. Rooms Boats stopatthe pier,which isa10- IleBoleng includeHotel Places tostay Small boats run between WaiwerangSmall boatsrunbetween toLewoleba All theboatsfromLarantuka 0383 , thebestintown,where Englishis Ili Api,which towers www.lonelyplanet.com mikrolet (Jl

Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com meals are served onahuge opendeck. meals are served SanRd.Home-cookedof Khao Bangkok’s and hasthebestDVDcollectionthisside Jim isamineof informationabout Lembata Api acrossthewater. It’sapopularplace,as viceable roomswithstunningviewsof Ili called Jim.Ithasarowof simplebutser- ownedbyaDutch-Indonesianhomestay 4WD to Lamalera andelsewhere. 4WD toLamalera provides goodlocalinfoand canarrange a fish, andthere’s afridge fullof Pak Bintang. up,includingfreshtions of foodare served air-con.with very efficient por- Generous Tanto rooms,some andhascomfortable this isrunbytheextremely Pak hospitable air-con 60,000/75,000Rp; 11pm) Lile Ile SLEEPING &EATING at dreadful rates. The site thepostofficewillchange USdollars stuck forcash,theFlores Jaya shopoppo- the southernsideof themarket. If youare a portraitphotographer,thatis. there’s notmuch of interest –unless you’re which comesalive Monday,though every The centre of isthemarket Lewoleba place, ORIENTATION &INFORMATION water.with beautifullyclear placeto town foraswim, it’s theclosest – offLewoleba toasandbank by sampan many are justshells.Localscantake youout www.lonelyplanet.com plane, sobook early. Tuesday, but it’sa12-seater Kupang every Merpati from operates aweek one flight THERE & AWAYGETTING Hosana Makan Rumah cuisine. Javanese-style Rumah Makan Makan Rumah to themarket. Rejeki, pastthepost office. It’s downtheroad opposite theLosmen air-con are atreat forthispartof theworld. the cheapest with are butthose rough, atad offairly slickplace. Ithasaselection rooms– complete withsofas, thetoneinthis sets con 75,000/95,000Rp; 28,000/38,000Rp, withmandi45,000/60,000Rp, withair- Losmen Rejeki Hotel Lewoleba Hotel The postofficeisoffthemainstreet near You’ll find some simple warungs close You’ll findsome simplewarungsclose is1kmwestof town. (s/d 30,000/45,000Rp) ( %

a ( % a 41028; s/d35,000/45,000Rp,with (meals9000Rp)OKPadang food. )

Theupmarket lobby, (dishes5000-7500Rp)Spicy 41012; JlAwololong15;s/d ) Opposite themarket, Telkom office Long-running ( h 7am- SOLOR & ALOR ARCHIPELAGOS ••Lembata SOLOR &ALORARCHIPELAGOS the northcoast, On Ili Api,15kmto20kmfromLewoleba. comes fromthevillages ontheslopesof patterning, detailed andhighly gundy base best Lembata’s ikat, recognisable byitsbur- Around Lewoleba ranged yourguesthouse. through around 75,000Rpperday.Thisis bestar- the market. infrontofyou canfindtheminLewoleba terminateBuses nexttotheferry dock,or trucks plysomeof backroads. therough ring (12,000Rp,twohours). Infrequent (5000Rp, 45minutes) anddirect toBalau- Losmen Rejeki’sKijang. Alternatively, considerchartering aridein 2½ hours, mainlydownhill,toLamalera). port, andwalkingfromthere (it’sabout bymore regular which trans- Bota, isserved connection youcouldconsiderheadingto and potholed.Ifyou’ve thenoon missed the mostpartbutextremely rutted rough, forat aroundnoon.Theroadissealed 3½ hours) cover thisroute, leaving daily trucks(12,000Rp, andLamalera; Lewoleba 1000Rp anywhere aroundLewoleba. dock, andthere are afew becak,which cost Mikrolet runaroundtownandtotheferry AROUND GETTING nections fromKalabahi. and tions fromLarantuka, p577 forcon- cancellations. See p570 forboatconnec- are subjecttovery frequent changes and Waipukang (30 minutes), fromwhere you with aguide (bestarranged inJontona). a fullday togoupanddown andiseasiest possible to climb orearlyOctober.in late September Itis emonies such asthekacang (bean)festival but are occupiedby villagers onlyforcer- including ahuge numberof elephant tusks, sacred contain andprizedobjects,These Village), withmany traditional houses. towards IliApi is the kepala desa withthe north coast,it’spossibletostay eastern sideof inletonLembata’s adeep sources of fineweaving. At Hiring amotorbike fromalocalcosts totheeastrunHadakewaBuses There are nolonger anyferries between Boat schedules inthispartof Indonesia Regular bemos from Lewoleba headto Regular bemos from Lewoleba . Anhour’swalkfromJontona and Atawatun from Lama; ittakes Ili ApifromLama; Kampung Lama(Old Kampung Jontona, onthe Mawa are two

573 NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA hasa Indonesiaifventuringhasa furtherafield. paystobeable tospeaksomeBa- certainly the crowdsof It kidsblockoutthesunlight. toshore.ling closer – Sunbathingisdifficult to Hadakewa alsohassomegood snorkel- out onthereef. Theeastern bayontheway beach, where there’s reasonable snorkelling mikrolet 574 littered in gardens,andifthere’s a been the shoreside boatshelters, giantribsare the peoplelive here –huge bones sitatop and 9pmonly.There’s noescaping how or banks.There 6pm iselectricitybetween cove. Youwon’tfindanyphones, internet, upsteeplyfromasmallvolcanicsand rises yet extremely welcominglittlevillage that aren’t seas toorough. is mainlyfromMay toOctober,whenthe livelihood continues.Thewhaling season and theirextremely andhazardous tough from theinternational banonwhaling, huntersthese have exempt deemed been of whalestaken –around15to25ayear of thesmallnumbersancestors. Because spears, woodenboatsandaprayertotheir huntwhalesusingnothingmorebata than village onthesouthcoastofLamalera Lem- Like characters fromMoby Dick,themenof pop 1800 Lamalera plored withyourownwheels. thisregion though isbestex- Lamagute, Mawabemos alsoruntoAtawatun, and can walktoJontonainanhour. Infrequent Lamalera itself isatiny,fascinating,poor itself Lamalera hassomegood Lembata

boats go’. whaling was allowed.When themourningperiod finished,aceremony tookplaceto‘let the days before being rescued byacruise ship. of waslater upbyathirdboatfromthe village,andthe36menthendrifted picked forseveral boats fromLamalera sankafter beingdraggedalmost toTimor byawoundedwhale. The crew and theancestralhome. generations, thevillagers considerthemtobelivingbeings andaphysicallinktotheirancestors for thatreason. Though theoriginal boats(called folklore hasitthattheyreached Lamaleraonthebackofabluewhale, whichare never hunted asthemodelforallfuturein woodenboatsthateachclanhaskept vessels –thoughoneclan’s after itwasdevastated bya volcanic eruption.The villagersbelieve thattheirancestors arrived Lamalera’s inhabitantsare thoughttohave originally fled fromLapanBatan,aislandnearPantar, LAMALERA’S HERITAGE SOLOR & ALOR ARCHIPELAGOS ••Lembata SOLOR &ALORARCHIPELAGOS The mourning periodduringwhich no lossofthe boats sentthevillage intoatwo-month oftheirheritage. InMarch1993two part The lossofatenameansthe an important toTagawiti andwalkfor2kmtothe beaches. Take a has motifsof whalesandmantas. where localweaving –theikat youcansee other nicewalkalongthecoastistoTapabali, An- walk alongthecoastfromLamalera. atWulandoni,abouta1½-hour only market whale bonesintheharbour. snorkel andyou’ll come acrossdiscarded bay westof thevillage, ordonamaskand There’shouses. somesnorkelling inalittle recent killbitsof whalemeathangfrom on request. shore. Someonewillcomeintocookmeals at theendof thebeach directly above the onthepoint thisrentalisright Yosef, house Bahasa Indonesiawiththem. Bahasa have plentyof your opportunitytopractise hosts. Theyare bothgoodcooksandyou’ll her daughterare terrific, very welcoming hind themainsquare. Maria Dasionand good English andisagracioushost. overlooking theshoreline. Pak speaks Ben It’s above thevillage, perched onaridge welcomingtravellersbeen forover adecade. lar place,thisschoolteacher’s has homestay Rates includeallmeals. Rates There are inLamalera. foursmallhomestays SLEEPING &EATING help withlocalinformation. Abelto stay. speakssomeEnglish,andwill this isanotherpopularandenjoyable place thevillage,through pastthe townsquare, tena) have beenrepaired andextended over On Saturdaythere’s aninteresting Mama Maria’s Homestay Maria’s Mama Abel Beding White House White Guru Ben’s Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com (r 40,000Rp) (r 40,000Rp) (r 40,000Rp) A deservedly popu- Adeservedly On themainpath

(r 40,000Rp) Owned byBaba Just be- barter- www.lonelyplanet.com run the 53km from Balauring overrun the 53km from Balauring the Ili Apias youcomeintotown. Therestay. are wonderfulviews of Gunung call here, but there’s nopressing reason to Ferries Lembata. linkingAlorand Lembata and isonthepeninsula attheeastern endof This smalltownispredominantly Islamic Balauring woleba, adailytruck leaves at5am. check attheharbour. Returning toLe- market day(Monday),sometimesbyboat– There’shis jeep. additionaltransporton of LosmenRejeki,alsooffers transportin mechanical problems.Pak Tanto, theowner ofally late andsometimescancelledbecause it’susu- though hours) boundforLamalera, to leave themarket atnoon(12,000Rp,3½ adailytruckisscheduled From Lewoleba, THERE&AWAYGETTING Small buses (12,000Rp, two hours)Small buses

the oddwhaleshark)are hunted throughouttheyear–allare alsocaughtusing harpoons. touched; seetheboxed text, opposite . Mantas,dolphins,sharks(mainlyhammerheads butalso withsievelike Baleenwhales (plankton-eaters feedingoccasionally taken. mechanisms)are never inthehills.market Touristsbuytheteeth. to burnlamps)isusedforcooking. Innardsare tradedforfruitandvegetables inabarter-only prized by19th-centurywhalersandusedSpermacetu oilfromthehead(whichwasparticularly every family inthevillage. goingtovirtually with mostbeingreserved forthecrew andportions mammal withknives, attempting tospeedupitsdeath. harpoons before theoceanbecomingablood bathasthehunters itweakens, prodthegreat thewhalewillneedtobespearedbut cannotescapesinceithastoresurface. Often with several weight todrive hometheharpoon).Aninjured whalewilltrytodive, dragging theboatwithit, aharpoonandattemptsplank –takes toleapontothebackofwhale(usingforcehis the gapbetweenboatandwhalenarrows,harpooner–balanced onaprotruding palm leaves andacrew whorowfuriouslytobeardownonawhalewhenoneisspotted. As allwhalingvessels stillcarryamast,sailmadefroming dolphinsandmantarays,butvirtually dowels andlashedtwine. Someengine-powered boatsare nowbeingusedinLamaleraforhunt- is ontheotherendofline. night approachessoyoucangetyourevening few meal–theirfoodsupplyforthenext weeks has beenspeared butisnotdead,thehunters willnotnecessarilywanttoheadforhomeas whale huntorthebloodybusinessofbutcheringaare quite small.Note that,ifawhale rowing andbloodyexperiencethatcandragonforhours. However, yourchancesofseeinga does notthreaten spermwhalenumbers(estimated atover amillionworldwide). ocean inanaverage groupshave year,asubsistence determined livelihood thatconservation harpoons. It’sahazardous,savagewayoflife around15to25spermwhalesfromthe thattakes where humansstillregularlythe lastvillageonearth huntwhalesbyhand, usingbamboo-shafted ‘ LAMALERA’S WHALERS Baleo, The sperm whale is particularly prized,The thoughothertoothedwhales(pilotsandorcas) are spermwhaleisparticularly Every ofthespermwhaleisused.The dark meatisshared part accordingtotraditionaldictates, The woodenwhalingboats(called Be warnedthatifyouaccompanythewhalersonahuntingtripitcanbean extremely har- Baleo!’ theshoutgoeswhenpotential targets are spotted inthewaters offLamalera. This is

tena) are around10mlongandheldtogetherwithwooden except during raids. witheachThe tribes had littlecontact other people were heads inthe1950s. still taking had little influenceover theinterior, where regionsalong the coastal after 1908, they in thearchipelago. island of Pantar isabout asremote asitgets (most of thePapuan family). Thenearby some 50tribes,and 14languages are spoken ving toisolate into the170,000 inhabitants nature of theterrain andlackof roadsser- versity. It’sanextremely rugged place,the volcanic islandof remarkable culturaldi- stretches east of Java, Alor isastunning The finallinkof theislandchain that ALOR to alsorun Buses roadtoLewoleba. sealed minute journey. Although the DutchlocalrajahsAlthough installed SOLOR & ALOR ARCHIPELAGOS ••Alor SOLOR &ALORARCHIPELAGOS onthefareastern coast,a45- Wairiang

575 NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA an internet connection at 576 h rates. There’s a outside banking hours andoften at better foreign currencies, including USdollars, on theroadablock totheeastwillchange Cirrus cardsonly. TheTokoOmbaishop andacceptsMastercard/tropical tantrums and 300northof theharbour,isproneto are poor,andtheATM at rates forUSdollars andtravellers cheques It’s besttobringplentyof cashtoAloras INFORMATION well aswomenweaving bamboomats. pres, which hasahuge varietyof fruitas with strongcurrents. snorkellingspectacular anddiving,butalso and beautifulbeaches nearby,somewith poor. There are afew interesting villages outside thetownlivingconditions are breezes. ated byoccasionalbutvery welcomingsea lazy, where thepunishingheatisallevi- clichéd tropicalport–slow-moving and palm-fringed bayonthewestcoast.It’sa located attheendof alongandspectacular Kalabahi isthechief townonAlorand is % Kalabahi Kalabahi’s modest museum SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES 8000Rp) yat Indonesia;JlSutoyo; perb macrolife. tooth tunaandMola-Mola,aswellsu- of pelagics,includinghammerheads,dog- The divingcanbeworld-class,withplenty warmth of thepeople,andlandscape. here, whodoare bythe butthose seduced of transport.Very few visitors make it the island,boatsare stillacommonform isincreasing.the exportof seaweed candlenuts andcloves, are beinggrown,and new cashcrops,includingvanilla,, sistence farming(particularlyof corn)but tions endure. onsub- Mostislanders survive indigenouscoast). However, animist tradi- 20% Muslim(mostof thelatter live onthe It’s worthstrollingaroundthePasar In- Kalabahi isrelatively prosperous, but Though anetworkof Though roadsnowcrosses Alor todayisaround75%Protestantand 8am-3.30pm Mon-Sat) 0386 /pop42,000 SOLOR & ALOR ARCHIPELAGOS ••Alor SOLOR &ALORARCHIPELAGOS , about2km northof town. Telkom h , just westof the mar- 7.30am-2pm) (Jl Soetomo; (Jl BRI bank Kantor PDE Kantor (Jl Diponegoro; (Jl , 300meast h 24hr) (Bank Rak- (per hr and dishes 5000-8000Rp; 110,000/135,000Rp, ste200,000; economy s/d20,000/30,000Rp,rwithair-con &shower serves thebest nasi campur intown. serves front, thispopular Javanese-owned place trally located nearthepieron thewater- furnishings. It’snearthePelangi Indah. ern andsmart,withtiledfloors andfancy able air-con rooms;thesuites here are mod- air-con 75,000Rp; aboards here fromBali. for downataround8pm.Lookout closes wise thing tonightlife inKalabahi, which other- offer. Thismeagre collectionisthe closest soto ayamandotherJavanese fare are on up neartheharbour.(food carts)set Sate, streetsideAt night warungs and EATING Kepa, nearAlor Kecil. PetiteLa Kepa ( Homestay p578 ) onPulau onAloris The mostpopularplacetostay SLEEPING a localspeciality. include schools offering dives aroundtheisland for US$65,includingallgear. Otherscuba PetiteLa Kepa (see p578 ) offers twodives artefacts. ket, hassomefine ikat, mokoandassorted 250,000Rp; 11; rwithfan&mandi30,000Rp,air-con75,000Rp, ste Tours Kupang, WestTimor, andGrandKomodo shady garden. this placehasfunctionalcleanroomsanda 60,000/75,000Rp; &air-con with fan&bathroom35,000/50,000Rp,TV mandi andveranda, tovery spacious suites. decentair-concells through roomswith rooms, fromclaustrophobic economy-class bus terminal, Pelangi Indahhasfive typesof waterfront. is about200mwestof theharbour,on tion andcanarrange transport.Thehotel speaks English,hasgoodtravel informa- port views.Thehelpfulowner,IbuInang, Hotel AdiDharma Hotel Kediri Makan Rumah Scuba divinginAlorcanbeexceptional. Indah Pelangi Hotel NusaKenari Hotel Melati Hotel jagung ketama (www.komodoalordive.com) Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com Dive Alor Dive a ) Has cleanandfairlycomfort- a a ( % h ) ) Apopularplacewithfine Justwestof theharbour, 21073; JlSoetomo;r45,000Rp,with (www.divealor.com) (cornwithgreen peas), Indah breakfast, lunch& dinner) ( % ( % ( 21280; Jl Martadinata 12;r 21280; JlMartadinata % ( 21251; Jl Diponegoro 100; 21251; JlDiponegoro100; a % , which runslive- 21146; Jl Martadinata; 21146; JlMartadinata; ) 21119; JlDiponegoro Outnearthe , based in, based kaki lima Cen-

p570 . Bringplenty of foodand water. departures, 14 hours). see ForLarantuka (33,000Rp, andLewoleba Balauring nusa, Thursday Bara- at8am, passingthrough (42,500Rp, around 20hours) onSundayand onMondayat10am. from Atapupu hours).8pm (22,700Rp,eight Ittravels back Timor,with East there’s a Tuesdayferry at totheborder hours). close ForAtapupu, and Sundayatnoon(42,000Rp,around 16 bemo ride. town centre, a10-minute walkor1500Rp the ferry terminal 1kmsouthwest of the ferrieswerang (Adonara).These leave from andWai- (Lembata) Lewoleba Balauring, (Flores)(Pantar), viaBaranusa Larantuka inTimorries toKupangandAtapupu and plane. 48-seater routeonanewer same fourtimesaweek GETTING THERE&AWAYGETTING www.lonelyplanet.com changes inthispartof thenation. schedules are subjecttovery frequent The airportis9kmfromtown.Transport Transnusa the roadonwestern bankof theriver. The officeiseastof theharbourandup plane thatfillsupquickly,sobookahead. Cassa to/from Kupang,someona12-seater sails every two opposite every the pier). TheAwu sails pier in thecentre of town (thePelni office is Pelni Ferries departKalabahi forLarantuka To Kupang,ferries leave onWednesday Kalabahi islinked by passenger/carfer- Merpati and thenpusheditsinfluenceintoIndonesia. Later be connected withtheDongsonculture thatdeveloped inVietnam andChinaaround700BC era,butothersresemble earlierSoutheastAsianand 14th-centuryMajapahit designsandmay from thegods,thoughtheywere probablybroughtbytradersfromIndia,ChinaorMakassar. island –theAlorese apparently foundthemburied inthegroundandbelieved themtobegifts ence. They abongowhenthumped.Thousands soundabitlike ofthemare scattered aroundthe tapered anhourglass inthemiddlelike andwithfourear-shaped handlesaroundthecircumfer- Alor’s chieffameliesinitsmysterious MOKO government. war inanattempt towinpossessionofaprized ofabride’s sential part time andenergy ofthem,alongwithpigsandland. toamassingcollections decorations. Most There’s a good collection in Kalabahi’s museum. There’s in Kalabahi’s agoodcollection Today, ( % ( moko have decorationssimilartothoseonbronze utensils madeinJavathe13th- ( % % 21195) moko have acquired enormousvalueamongtheAlorese, and familiesdevote great 21041) 21039; JlSudirman100) shipsleave fromthe main has four flights a week aweek hasfourflights

belis (dowry).Informertimes,wholevillageswouldsometimesgoto fliesthe moko –bronze drumsabout50cmhighand33cmacross, . The export ofmokoisrestrictedmoko. The export bythe the jumping-off point forPulau Kepa, an but the currents are strong. Alor Kecil is kelling. The water here iswonderfully cool, Besar are goodbeaches withexcellent snor- foodstuffs ifyouplan on exploring. foodstuffs lage isstunning. Bringsomegiftsof basic the viewover fromthevil- theFlores Sea traditionalhigh-roofed and several houses, road.Thereabout 1kmuphill on asealed are market. Fromwhere thebusdropsyou,walk bus (2000Rp)from theterminal atKalabahi east of Kalabahi. Toget there take aMabu Takpala isa traditional village about13km Around Kalabahi to Pak Kris around 50,000Rpperday;foracar, speak theHotelcycle through AdiDharma for (1500Rp). It’spossibletorent amotor- Transport aroundtownisbyred bemo AROUND GETTING of centralAlor. leave fromthePasar Inpres tomostparts . make theirwaytoremote islandsof the Kupang andMakassar. nally, the including Timika; andontoAmbon.Fi- Tatamailau and Sulawesi.Inaddition,themonthly orLarantuka Waingapu, LombokandBali, Kalabahi between weeks andKupang,Ende, moko even have English-orDutch-influenced Nearby the villages of

Other smallboatsfromthecentralwharf SOLOR & ALOR ARCHIPELAGOS ••Alor SOLOR &ALORARCHIPELAGOS Sirimau connectsKalabahi with sails toKupang;portsinPapua,sails ( % 21030) . Jeeps calledpansars Moko formanes- andAlor Alor Kecil 577

NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA -kepa.com; bungalowsinclmealsperperson75,000Rp) -kepa.com; Pantar isaboutasfaroffthebeaten track The second-largest islandof theAlorgroup, % Pantar Kepa La Petite offshore isletwithaterrific placetostay, 578 stay withafamilyinMali.stay Sulawesi. Itisusuallypossibletoarrange to grave there, tobethatof from said asultan , offthebeach atMali. There’s anold Suki when thetideallowsyoucanwalktoPulau to rent aboatfortourof thearea and beach withgoodsnorkelling. It’spossible , alovelyof white-sand theisland,isMali willferrySere youacrossforasmallfee. heading toKepa, stopbythepierandPak them ontheharbourfrontroad.Ifyou’re from theKalabahi Pasar Inpres, orcatch leave (3000Rp, 30minutes) andAlorBesar on thewestern sideof PulauKepa. cluding equipment),andthere’s snorkelling offer scubadiving(US$65for twodives, in- provides electricity.Theowners night-time communally eaten localmeals.Solarpower and-coconut-wood bungalowsandfine, for travellers, goodbamboo- witheight views of AlorandPantar. up It’swellset a French-run placeinanidyllicspotwith Near theairport,atnorthernmosttip andbluebemostoAlor KecilBuses You can buy your bus ticket forthereturnYou canbuy yourbusticket tripfrom received theirsinjustthree days. Enjoythedelights ofDiliandthenrun theroute in reverse. is more days toissue,though somepersuasive usual. The five visa takes visitorshave working ofDili.Travellers have beenissuedwith60-dayvisas hereoutskirts onapplication,though 30days ers musthave WestTimor. tore-enter The consulate isnearthePertamina officeonthewestern yourown waytotheborderfromAtambuamake inWest Timor; see p588 ). US$30) andyou’llfind youronwardbuswaitingforthe2½ hourtriptoDili.It’salsopossible immigration officials. Onceover the border,getyourEastTimor visa (availableattheborderfor both sidesoftheborder, buttravellers have hasslesfromcustoms or notreported anyextra youtotheborderatMotoain(150,000Rp, sevenwhich willtake abagsearchon hours).Expect Rua Bemori, Culuhum) Rua Bemori, to Dili,hungaroundforyourvisaand travelled backtoWestTimor. expensive thanIndonesiaandthereturn over tripnormallytakes aweekbythetimeyou’ve got before youcrosstheborder. Ifyoudecidetogo,beaware thatEastTimor isconsiderablymore Dili didclosetheIndonesianconsulate forawhilein2006–checkthecurrent politicalsituation gara. smoothlyforthelastfew This visarunhasgenerallybeenworking years,thoughunrest in DiliinEastTimorHitting isaninexpensive waytorenew yourIndonesianvisafromNusaTeng- EAST TIMOR VISA RUN 0386 WEST TIMOR Once in Dili, head to the Indonesian consulate for your visa (US$35), which all passport hold- Once inDili,headto theIndonesianconsulate foryour visa(US$35),whichallpassport Starting inKupang,WestTimor,Starting booka

( % 081 338200479;www.la-petite . Timor Travel , small crater lake. by atowering,forested peaktoppedbya Pantarbetween and Alor. Itisdominated sparsely populated PulauPura,sandwiched Kakamauta. withthe andstay Baranusa walk toSirung’scrater. Bringwater from Kakamauta, fromwhere itisathree-hour ing crater. take atruckto FromBaranusa cano withahuge andimpressive smoulder- climb meals. with justthree rooms;thepriceincludes only accommodation,isafriendlyplace strictions, Timor’sEast harrowingstruggle nation of Indonesia’srecentre- visa crises, that are wellworthexploring.Thecombi- rugged countrysideandtraditional villages itisverydestination, although scenic,with West Timor much been of hasnever atourist WEST TIMOR ple of general stores. ofwith astraggle coconutpalmsandacou- littleplace island’s maintown,it’sasleepy it’sthe and AlorstopatBaranusa;though as youcanget. Ferries Larantuka between The onlyotherislandof note isthe The mainreason tovisitPantar isto Homestay Burhan Ifau Gunung Sirung Travel ( % 881543) ( % 7260019; [email protected]; 7260019; [email protected]; busfromKupangtoDili , which isanactive vol- (r 20,000Rp) www.lonelyplanet.com kepala desa , Baranusa’s in www.lonelyplanet.com relish. Around 14 languages are spoken on nut and down traditional chiefs, wearikat, munch betel dure. Many villagers still defer to their some rural areas animistic traditions en- are important. crop,butcoffee anddry rice is thestaple results infood andwater shortages. Maize isprolonged and Australia, thedry season are noresorts, just emptybeaches. there coastline,though has somefantastic with villages of beehive-shaped huts.Italso palms, rockysoilsandcentralhills dotted scape iscaptivating,withitsspiky lontar Kupang,WestTimor’s land- horns. Beyond nesian, withitsbuzzingbemosand honking numbers are slowlyincreasing again. offering aninexpensive run,visitor visa operation andtheproximity of Timor East Kupang–Darwin connectionsnow backin map formanyyears. Butwithtwice-weekly but wipedWestTimor from thetourism for independenceandtransport issues all (80km, seeinset) To PulauSabu (300km) To Sumba WEST TIMOR Christianity iswidespread, in though Aggravated bydry windsfromnorthern Kupang isthemaincityandvery Indo- To Maumere(240km); Nemberala Pulau Raijua Surabaya (1240km) Pulau Solor (80km), seemainmap Pulau Sabu From PulauRote Ba'a Pulau Semau Selat Rote (palm-sap liquor) with tuak (palm-sap Pulau Rote Roti Lembata Papela Kupang Teluk Tanjung Rodi

Pulau Usu Pulau Sulamu Oisina Tanjung Oebelo Kupang Mali Selat Alor Tablolong Naikliu Gunung (1115m) Fatuleu Baun Oesan S AWUE Camplong Gunung (2427m) Mutis TIMOR WEST Pantemakassar TIMOR Pantar Pulau EAST Oecussi Eban Soe Kapan To Kalabahi back toeastern Timor. Thedivision of the being pushed and leading to thePortuguese flict for control of trade the sandalwood occupied Kupang,beginning alongcon- trees. Inthemid-17th century the Dutch who prizeditssandalwoodPortuguese, which theycame. returnedthoughtfully tothekingdomfrom peace wasrestored thecaptured headswere when hunting apopular pastime,although Conflict wasall too common,withhead- were fragmented intodozensof smallstates. andDutchthey colonisation, Portuguese largest ethnicgroups ontheisland.Before The Tetum of centralTimor are oneof the History remote islands of Alor and Rote. byboatandplane,includingthe and Bali nections tootherpartsof Tenggara Nusa is about1.6million. most parts.Thepopulationof WestTimor thenativethough Tetum isunderstood in the island,bothMalay and Papuan types, (50km) Niki Kefamenanu Musi Kolbano The first inTimor Europeans were the West Timor offers excellent travel con-

Wini Mena Atapupu Oinlasi Halilulik Oelolok Boti 0 0 Atambua Betun WEST TIMOR••History Suai T IMORSEA Tatamailau Gunung (2963m) DILI TIMOR EAST 60 miles 100 km

579 NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA have started tovisit the city again. Darwin and Kupang, atrickle of travellers in 1789. adrift by themutinouscrew of the didafter WilliamBligh beingcast Captain or boat–Englishnavalfor aflight officer to linger forafew daysifyou’re waiting or intimidatingplace. It’sareasonable base chitectural attractions,it’s not athreatening Kupang isvirtually bereft of cultural orar- out withabombastic soundsystem. Though sia’s mostoutrageous bemos,each kitted streets patrolledbysquadronsof Indone- The citycentre andnoisy,with isscruffy Archipelagos, Sumba,Flores andKomodo. West Timor, Rote, Sabu,theSolorandAlor Tenggara which includes province (NTT), of Nusa bustling citythat’sthecapital East Kupang isallenergy andcommerce,a % KUPANG always have been. most areas of WestTimor are very safe and by roadandairwere thriving.Kupang and andtransportlinks tobestabilising seemed thetwoTimors,border between relations sional outbreaks of tothe tension close pariah ininternational eyes. in2000,leavingin Atambua WestTimor a sible forthelynching of three UNworkers in WestTimor, themilitiaswere respon- ture before Back peacekeepers intervened. Timor, destroyingbuildingsandinfrastruc- went onamurderousrampage inEast litias, backed bythe Indonesianmilitary, in favour of independence. Pro-Jakarta mi- referendum, thepeopleof Timor East voted independence in2002. full tragedy thatcontinueduntiltheEast’s held Timor, thestageEast forthe setting left WestTimor, still butthePortuguese nesia wonindependencein1949theDutch thenativethrough aristocracy.WhenIndo- largely withbothcolonisersruling intact, and theisland’spoliticalstructure wasleft into theinterior untilaroundthe1920s, plus theenclave of Oecussi. and 1913,gave Portugaltheeastern half worked outinagreements 1859 between thetwocolonialpowers,island between 580 With the resumption of between flights thereBy 2006,though occa- hadbeen During August1999,inaUN-sponsored Neither Europeanpowerpenetrated far 0380 /pop300,000 WEST TIMOR••Kupang Bounty

and NTT. and NTT. wellinformedaboutTimorEdwin Lerrickisextremely owner when wevisited,butif it’s opentheever-helpful midnight at8000Rpperhour. an ATM between8amand andoffers internetconnections 200m east. ElTariat JlRaya attheSMP5secondary schoolandwalk bemo10or7,getoff about 4kmeastofthecentre; take Thu) Hasmapsandafew brochures, butlittleelse. It’s h Pitoby Tours &Travel Office Tourist NTT L’Avalon TOURIST INFORMATION BNI bank Bank Danamon morning. theyarehowever, notopenonSaturday Kupang hasplentyof banksandATMs; MONEY Telkom office postoffice Main Flash Internet Tenggara. able here Nusa thananywhere inEast else Internet connectionsare much more reli- ACCESS,INTERNET POST&TELEPHONE Information 13km west,respectively. Tenau andBolokharbours are 10kmand ElTariBeach). airportis15kmeastof town; ing Pantai Taman Ria(nicknamedTim Tim upmarket optionsfurther eastbyuninspir- a coupleof hotels onJlSumatera andsome thingsgraduallyimprove,the seafront with bling buildings.Heading eastof here along and squalid,itswaterfront linedwithcrum- Kupang (orsimplyTerminal), isrun-down centred onthebemoterminal of Kota and restaurants. Thedowntowndistrict, have hotels, internet connections,banks mad Hatta/Sudirman tothesouthboth parallel tothewaterfront) andJlMoham- main streets, JlAhmadYani (which runs to take bemosor Kupang isasprawlingcity,andyou’llneed Orientation and offers cashadvancesofupto5,000,000Rp. ATM, aswellfairrates. restante mailcomeshere. tickets here. tickets You can checkschedules and purchase flight andferry 24hr) (Jl Sumatera) The bar looked onitslastlegs Sumatera)Thebarlooked (Jl (BankNegaraIndonesia;JlSumatera)Hasan (Jl Urip Sumohardjo11; Urip (Jl (Jl Sudirman 100A;perhr9000Rp; (Jl (Jl Sumatera)EquippedwithanATM (Jl (Jl Palapa 1)Take (Jl bemo5.Poste ( % ojeks toget around.Two ( % 21540; 832700; JlSudirman 136) www.lonelyplanet.com h 7am-3pm Mon- h 24hr) Alsohas www.lonelyplanet.com 0 500 m KUPANG 0 0.3 miles

A B C D E F To Surya (6km); Pantai Lasiana (10km); 23 Jl Timor Timur El Tari Airport (15km); Oebelo (22km); Pantai Oesao (28km); Camplong (46km); Taman Taman Ria Wisata Camplong (47km); Soe (110km); Niki Niki (136km); Katamenanu (176km); Atambua (256km); Dili (420km) 1 Kupang Bay Jl Kartini To Sasando

14 8 Hotel (1 km)

24

Alor Jl Sumatera 17 1 Jl Jl Gunung Mutis 12 15 Jl Sumba To NTT Tourist Jl Garuda Office (200m) Central Jl G Lakaan Kupang 19 Jl Kosasih Flores Jl Jl Ahmad Yani 25 27 2 29 Jl Siliwangi To Tenau 26 20 18 Harbour (10km); 13 28 hardjo 16 Bolok Harbour Jl 11 (13km) Sumo Jl Pahlawan Soe Jl Raya El Tari 10 Jl Keli mutu 7 31 kar Urip 30 no Jl 5 22 INFORMATION Pantai Timor...... 17 B2 Bank Danamon...... (see 1) Jl Tompelo BNI Bank...... 1 B2 EATING Flash Internet...... 2 B4 Bintang Jaya...... 18 B2 Jl Mohammad Hatta L'Avalon...... (see 24) Holland...... 19 B2 21 Main Post Office...... 3 C3 Night Warungs...... 20 A2 3 Pitoby Tours & Travel...... 4 C4 Palembang International...... 21 B3 Telkom...... 5 B2 Silvia Steakhouse...... 22 B2 3

Teluk Kupang...... 23 E1 WEST TIMOR••Kupang Jl Gajah Mada SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES To Flobamora Jl Palapa Dive Alor...... 6 D4 DRINKING (3km) East Nusa Tenggara L'Avalon...... 24 B2 32 Museum...... 7 F2 Teddy's...... 25 A2 2 Jl Sudirman Pasar Oeba...... 8 C1

Jl Suprapto SHOPPING SLEEPING Sinar Karya Jaya...... 26 A2 4 6 Hotel Astiti...... 9 C4 Hotel Komodo...... 10 B2 TRANSPORT 4 Jl Raya El Tari Hotel Laguna Inn...... 11 B2 ...... 27 B2 Hotel Maliana...... 12 B2 Kota Kupang Bemo Terminal..28 A2 Hotel Marina...... 13 B2 Merpati...... 29 B2 Kristal Hotel...... 14 D1 Oebobo Bus Terminal...... 30 F2 To Oenesu 9 Jl Soeharto Jl Lalamentik Waterfall (12km); To Pasar Inpres (50m); Maya Beach Hotel...... 15 B2 Pelni...... 31 A2 581

Tablolong (23.5km) Hotel Silvia (200m); Orchid Garden Hotel...... 16 B2 Transnusa...... 32 B4

Jl Harimau Baun (30km) NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA can help withtravel info. are welcoming and is included,andthe staff Breakfast backfrom theseafront. rooms set like Maliana low-rise has well-scrubbed 60,000Rp, withair-con 110,000Rp; h 582 rooms thatoffer good value: thecheapest are commodation andmeals. (minimum of twopeople),includingallac- two-day tourcosts1,100,000Rpperperson Timor).around theisland(andtoEast A nological, trekking andbird-watching trips speaking guidewhoorganises superbeth- 339479670) off JlAhmadYani/Jl UripSumohardjo. front onJlSumatera andanothergroupjust concentration of goodoptionsonthewater- Hotels are spread aroundthecity,witha Sleeping Alor diving. Kupang-based Dive Nearby Alor hassomeof Indonesia’sbest DIVE TRIPS guide isvery advisable. English –isoften notspoken, soalocal Indonesia–letalone regions. But Bahasa villages, pockets of rainforest, andremote Timor hasmanyfascinatingtraditional EXPLORING TIMOR The Sights &Activities Maliana Hotel BUDGET a 75,000/100,000Rp, standardr160,000Rp, deluxe 220,000Rp; Oeba and ikatcanbefound.Thesmaller mostly fruitandvegetables, butsomecrafts and followthecrowdwhenyouget off.It’s of thecity.Toget there, take bemo1or2 arranges tripstotheisland. experiencedscubaoutfitthatis ahighly tralians GraemeandDonovan Whitford, pres pres KupangTerminal.10 fromtheKota to show youaround.Toget there, take bemo Arby isananthropologistwhowillbehappy tefacts fromallover theprovince. Aurora acollectionofhouses arts,craftsandar- www.divealor.com; ElTari JlRaya 19) Pantai Timor The mainmarket is therambling ) 8am-3.30pm Mon-Sat) Landmark seafront hotel withrenovated seafront Landmark ( h WEST TIMOR••Kupang (Jl Alor) (Jl East NusaTenggara Museum 7am-4pm) is a highly recommended isahighly English- is2kmeastof town. ( % ( % off Jl Soeharto inthesouth Jl Soeharto off 821879; JlSumatera35; rwithfan 831651; Jl Sumatera; economy s/d 831651; JlSumatera; economys/d , near thetouristoffice, , near Pae Nope a , runbyAus- )

(admission free; The motel- ( % Pasar In- ( 821154; % Pasar 081 The restaurant has panoramic sea views. The restaurant haspanoramicsea two doublebedsandqualityfurnishings. classandabovestandard are alllarge, with quite andhave acceptable air-con, whilethe nung Fateleu 2;s/dfrom175,000/250,000Rp; house restauranthouse isfarfromgood. Thein- identical buton thelowerlevel. rooms –thecheaper classare standard of thecentre, thishotel haswell-appointed from 1,452,000Rp; .net.id; JlTimor Timur 59;s/d from 508,200/580,800Rp,ste within walkingdistance. café-restaurant, in-house butnotmuch else two huge beds.There’s afancy,overpriced furniture classhave thestandard –even gorgeous teak floors andstylishmodern immaculate, squeaky-cleanroomswith 70,000/82,000Rp; with fan&bathroom53,000/65,000Rp,air-con views. fair prices,somewithsea well-kept blandtiledroomsat ifslightly concrete hotel hasplentyof inoffensive, included. all over. There’s anATM, and brekkie is here are looking dated, butthat’sKupang 275,000Rp, superior 350,000Rp; 275,000Rp, superior 165,000-275,000Rp, d220,000-400,000Rp) Hotel Silvia Hotel MIDRANGE Komodo Hotel 135,000Rp; 115,000Rp,withhotwater standard rwithair-con&TV at fairrates. 80,000Rp; air-con &TV 30,000/35,000Rp, withmandi37,500/45,000Rp,r lights. pretty decent,withwardrobesandreading bathrooms, buttheair-con optionshere are a 55,000Rp, s/dwithair-con&bathroom110,000/137,500Rp; Hotel LagunaInn Hotel garden andlarge pool. spacious bungalowsare groupedarounda chid enjoysatranquillocation,andthe very great fortheprice. placetostay TheOr- ortwothisremainsexpect aleakytap a some more maintenance, butaslongyou could beanabsolutely first-class dealwith BeachHotel Maya Astiti Hotel Hotel Kristal Marina Hotel Orchid Garden Hotel Orchid Garden Or trythese: ) Theeconomyroomsonlyhave shared Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com a ( % ) ( Adecentchoice, thislarge a ( % as % ( ( % % ( 825191; Jl Soeharto 51-53;standard 825191; JlSoeharto % ) Largeplacewithplentyofchoice. 821913; Jl Kelimutu 38-40;s/d 821913; JlKelimutu 821810; fax 831278;JlSudirman; s a 822566; JlAhmadYani 79;rwithfan 825100; [email protected] 833559; Jl Kelimutu 36;s/d 833559; JlKelimutu

) ) A selection of spartan rooms ofspartan ) Aselection ( ( Bythebeach 2kmeast % % www.lonelyplanet.com a 833707; fax831339;JlGu- 832169; JlSumatera31; ) Thisplacehas Therooms as ) It & dinner) mad Hatta54;dishes6000-26,000Rp; seafood specials,includinggiantprawns. seafood greens withchicken (8000Rp), noodles,and an inexpensive menuthatincludes empty these days. empty these front views,but ittends tobeachingly place where thebarstools have great water- h also serves breakfast andfresh juices. also serves cluding cognacsteak andfishchips. It offers alongmenuof Western dishes,in- tableclothsstylish placewithgingham ards are decidedlyaverage. on theatmosphere front.Culinarystand- expect florescent andzeroeffort striplights inKupang,many enjoyableplacestoeat Despite thetown’ssizethere aren’t very Eating www.lonelyplanet.com most are littlemore thansleazy karaoke are Kupang’s nightspots uniformly seedy; Entertainment Australia. was crammedwithbackpackers boundfor Gone are thedayswhenharbourfront Drinking ikan special. waku(spicyfish)isthehouse specialising innorthernSulawesifood– kitsch, garishlydecorated beachside place window. Also sells beer.window. Alsosells spicy Javan foodfromthelarge bowlsinthe street, pick‘n’mixyourselfaplateful of best of similarrestaurants several onthis 40,000Rp; 15,000-38,000Rp; worth stopping by to see ifit’sopen. worth stoppingby tosee the bestsourceof infointown, itmaybe the owner,Edwin, isquite acharacter and spent forcewhen welastcalledin.But,as shack above the‘beach’ thatwaslooking a 29,000Rp; the gigantic Some of these warungs sell Some of warungs sell these beans andblackriceincoconut milk). Terminal, trythebuburkacang Silvia Steakhouse Teluk Kupang Bintang Jaya L’Avalon Holland Palembang International Teddy’s Night warungsareNight located aroundthe breakfast, lunch&dinner) Abusy,shabby-looking place with h h (Jl Siliwangi; (Jl ( % breakfast, lunch&dinner) dinner) (Jl Sumatera) (Jl martabak, thebestintown. 833367; Jl Irian Jaya 8; martabak 15,000- Jaya8;martabak 833367; JlIrian h ( % Take-away placeoffering (Jl Ahmad Yani;(Jl meals8000Rp; breakfast, lunch&dinner) 833985; JlTimor Timur; mostdishes h (Jl Beringin 3;dishes12,000- Beringin (Jl

noon-11pm) Arickety-looking Thecleanestand

( % rw (dogmeat). h 822784; JlMoham- Thisalmost- Open-sided breakfast, lunch (mung Vast, Tenggara ceramics. andsomeChinese andweavings fromaroundNusa carvings ( travel Tenggara. inNusa Merpati hubforair Kupang isthemostimportant AIR &Away There Getting Flobamora backpack. buttryfittingoneinyour fun purchase, langga find ikatatthePasar Inpres. Bizarre ti’i stores neartheTerminal, andyoumay For ikatandhandicraftsthere are some Shopping 12); ferries from Bolok Harbour, 13km 10km southwest of Kupang (4000Rp, bemo Pelni ships departfromTenau Harbour, BOAT daily toSurabaya andontoJakarta. Kartini 1;admission25,000Rp; Kartini Waingapu (four times weekly). Waingapu (fourtimesweekly). (daily), Ruteng and (fourtimesweekly) Maumere Ende(fourtimesweekly), weekly), Kalabahi (twiceweekly), pasar (four times has more modernplanes,andfliestoDen- at JlBeringin. town, take bemo6fromtheroundabout places fittingthisbill. and Saturday). Merpati/Air NorthflytoDarwin(Tuesday and Rote (twoweekly) (Friday). Atambua (oneweekly), tuka (three Lewoleba weekly), Ende(three Laran- weekly), timesweekly), Waingapu (three Maumere weekly), (five (daily),Kalabahitaram (fourtimesweekly), the beach, andthebarat flights. and 50,000Rpforinternationaltic flights on howearlyyou book. route. Bothoperate flexi-fares, depending Tari 19) Jl AhmadYani 66) bars. tefacts andikat. of placesaroundhere ar- several thatsells % Kupang’s mainshoppingmallisthe Batavia Air Jaya Sinar Karya Transnusa Departure is 10,000Rpfordomes- tax Dive Alor Dive 882119; ElTari airport) Surya Has ahugeof selection high-quality (conicalhats)fromRote make a ( (Jl Lamamentik) (Jl h ( % ( % flies to Denpasar (daily),Ma- fliestoDenpasar ( % 6pm-2am) 821154; www.divealor.com; El JlRaya 822555; fax832573;JlSudirman68) WEST TIMOR••Kupang ( 830555; JlAhmadYani 73) % 831473; JlSiliwangi94C) flies exactly the same fliesexactlythe same , 6kmeastof townon h 3km southeastof 7pm-1am) Sasando Hotel ( are dark % Lion Air 833833; flies One 583 (Jl

NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA Mon-Sat, 9-11amSun) from thecentral terminal, Kupang. Kota terminalalso pass byOebobo at7am. 11 hours) toDiliare operated by hours) at7am,9am, noonand5pm. 5½ hours) (52,000Rp,eight andAtambua from 5amto6pm; Kefamenanu (36,000Rp, (25,000Rp, 3½hours) hourorso every (22,000Rp,three hours)Soe andNiki catch bemo10.Daily departures include terminal ontheeastern sideof town– departfrom Oebobo buses Long-distance BUS &BEMO rougher. are whentheseas much the rainyseason, are regularly changed, particularlyduring bemo. a hotel dropwhencomingintotown by topayapproximatelyExpect 12,000Rpfor southwest of Kupang(4000Rp,bemo13). 584 ( Maumere (125,000Rp),and baya: Sulawesi andPapua viaKupang. east. Finally,themonthly and Surabayatothewest,Papua tothe links KupangwithEnde,Waingapu,Bima Saumlake andTual. Themonthly andonthereturn tripheadsto and Benoa, ilau connectsKupangwithMaumere, Bima, via Ende,WaingapuandBima. The Pangrango Kupang, AlorandMakassar. Thefortnightly The fortnightly andSulawesi. orKalabahi,Bali, Larantuka Kupang toEnde,Waingapu,Lombokand and Papua. from Awusails Thefortnightly Ambon toKupang,andonKota from Bali ni’s to Rote, see to Rote, see p590 . in Flores onThursday. of Fordetails boats gapu. There’s boattoAimere alsoaweekly day. TheEndeferry continuesontoWain- and Sundayat2pm)Endeon Wednes- Kalabahirantuka (twiceweekly), (Tuesday travel agent. your tickets andcheck schedules first viaa ing Thursday) viaEnde(115,000Rp).Book % Bemos tovillages around Kupang goBemos Daily direct (150,000Rp oneway, buses Pelni Boats are routinelylate andschedules Two otherferries provide linkstoSura- From BolokHarbour, ferries toLa- sail 881543) Dobonsolo directly twoweeks runsevery WEST TIMOR••AroundKupang

Kirana II(leaving Monday)via ( % . Call for ahotel pick-up,or they . Call sails fromKupangtoSurabaya sails 824357; Jl Pahlawan 3; 824357; JlPahlawan isnearthewaterfront. Pel- sails betweenSirimau sails links Dorolonda links Dharma h Timor Travel 8.30am-3pm Kelimutu Tatama- (leav-

strewn. Kupang’s beaches are grubbyand flotsam- Beaches tered boatonly. beaches andclearwater. Accessisbychar- This small,uninhabited islandhassandy trees thatisvisiblefromKupang. and sand lage, westof Kupang. regular vil- localboatsgofrom Namosaen beachesdecent sandy andsnorkelling. Ir- tothewestof Kupanghassome Semau Pulau Islands AROUND KUPANG or atravel agent. around 50,000Rpperday.Ask atyourhotel from 300,000Rpperday.Motorcycles cost It’s possibletorent acarwithdriver CAR &MOTORCYCLE 14 &15 13 12 busterminal. information officeandOebobo 10 6 5 1 &2 Terminal. Useful bemoroutes: Kupangterminal,Kota usuallyjustcalled walking. Thehubof bemoroutes isthe Theystoprunningbyabout 9pm. seat. rock, techno andhip-hopfrombeneathyour job, whilebanksof subwoofers unleashIndo work isof thego-faster technicolour paint English premiership footballstars, thebody- silhouette stickers, Jesus of Nazareth and ences. Windscreens are festooned withgirlie (1500Rp) isoneof experi- thecity’sessential A rideinoneof Kupang’suniquebemos BEMO the junctionandthenwalk. Going totheairport,take bemo14or15to from where bemostotowncost3000Rp. to thejunctionwithmainhighway, turn leftoutof theterminal andwalk1km cost afixed 50,000Rp.Forpublictransport, town centre. Taxis fromtheairporttotown Kupang’s ElTari airportis 15kmeastof the TO/FROM THEAIRPORT Around Getting Oebobo–Airnona–Bakunase; passingthemainpostoffice. Oebobo–Airnona–Bakunase; GoestotheFlobamorashoppingmall. BolokHarbour. Tenau Harbour. Lima–Walikota;fromTerminal Kelapa tothetourist Pulau Kera (Monkey Island)istheblobof Pulau Kera Kupang istoospread outtodomuch Kuanino–Oepura; passing manypopularhotels. Kuanino–Oepura; Penfui (usefulfortheairport). Pantai Lasiana , about 10km eastof www.lonelyplanet.com a rough road. a rough turn tothefalls,which is800mawayalong to Sumlili;pasttheImanuelchurch isthe it’s a2.5kmwalktothefalls.Take theroad lar bemosfromTabun. Fromthemainroad near Tapa byregu- village, which isserviced road. Theturn-offis13kmfromKupang This waterfall liesofftheKupang–Tablolong Oenesu backtoKupang. the lastbemogoes plenty of foodandwater, andcheck when the mainroad3kmbefore Tablolong. Bring suchsand, as stretchand findyourowndeserted of white lage, headsouthwestaroundtheheadland 27km southwestof Kupang.Fromthevil- andlitterstalls are theorderof theday. a busypicnicspotatweekends, whenfood beachtown bybemo17,isafinesandy and www.lonelyplanet.com swimming pool along withacaged Komodo , with somecavesCamplong anda spring-fed plong has asmallforest reserve, A quiethill town46kmfrom Kupang, Cam- CAMPLONG has aninteresting road, 22kmfromKupangontheSoe Oebelo, &Oesao Oebelo Kupang’s busterminal orPasar Inpres. down there. solid day’shike; there’s agoodsurfbeach tothesouthcoastisa urday. FromBaun by hiswidow.Market isSat- dayinBaun last rajah’s which isnowoccupied house, ings. Youcanvisitthe ikat-weaving centre withafew Dutch build- in thehillyAmarasidistrict, isanBaun A smallvillage 30kmsoutheastof Kupang Baun Australian Infantry Battalion. has awarmemorial dedicated tothe2/40th tunes. lodious singsong of Beatles langga lontar-leafsions andtheRotenese hat, ti’i are madehere, alongwithelectrifiedver- the ditional 20-stringed instruments, Rotenese sign.Tra- the fadedHomeIndustriSasando run byPak Pah andhisfamily–lookfor There are great beaches nearTablolong, To gettake abemofrom toBaun, Oesau isanother6kmdowntheroad and Oesau sasando . Thefamilymay treat youtoame- (featured onthe5000Rpnote), Air Cina–downadirttrackoff workshop

rumah rajah ( % Taman Wisata 081 339242307) , the

proved houses. they constructnewlopobehindtheap- unhealthy,asthey’renew houses cold, so considertheir them. Thelocals,however, ties have instituted aprogramme to replace lopo are smallandsmoky,theauthori- doorway,windows andonlya1m-high region its distinctive character. Withno (umekebubuhouses , orlopo)thatgive the tional villages aroundthearea. it makes fortripstotradi- anexcellent base isadullsprawlof but itself modernhouses, less steamy here thanonthecoast.Thetown Timor, are sitsat800m–nights markedly market animportant town incentral Soe, % SOE one hour)andontoSoe. (6000Rp, terminalOebobo toCamplong florafoundonitsslopes. unique montane which interested attractsbotanists inthe walk fromhere toGunungFatuleu (1115m), 7km dragon andasmallcroc.It’stough (4km); Kupang(110km) Haumeni BusTerminal Hotel BahagiaII(1.25km); Kanduang (750m); To Bundo 1 3 2 SOE Beyond Soe you’ll see thebeehive-shaped you’llsee Soe Beyond Regular buses operate fromKupang’sRegular buses 0388 /pop:30,000 Falls (10km);Kapan(21km); Fatumenasi (41km) Rumah MakanNikiNiki...... Nope's Royal Homestay...... Hotel Bahagia I...... Tourist InformationCentre...... Telkom...... BRI Bank...... EATING SLEEPING INFORMATION N ak...... B2 BNI Bank......

To Oahala

Jl Sudirman A Jl Matani WEST TIMOR••Camplong

Jl Kartini Jl Brahmat Jl Jl

Pemuda

Jl Ki Jl Jl Pramuka

5 Jl Proklamasi Dewantoro Hajar

Jl 4 0 0 1 Jl Samratulangi Diponegoro

Jl Hayam Wuruk Jl Jeruk Jl

Jl Merpati6

Pasar

7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Jl Ketumbar Jl B Jl Apel Jl

Mer 2 B2 B2 A2 B2 B1 B1 Oinlasi (51km);

deka Niki (34km); 300 m Boti (63km) 3 0.2 miles

Jl Soeharto Mosque To Niki

Jl Yos Sudarso 585 7 NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA 95,000-155,000Rp, cottages210,000-397,000Rp) galows inclbreakfast 75,000Rp) beds. It’s2kmwestof thecentre. ing thewalls,andsomewithwrought-iron has agoodrange of roomswithikatadorn- excellent deal,thisorderly,well-runhotel are poor. change rates forcashandtravellers cheques 13,500Rp; are planned. lived inDarwinforyears. More bungalows ent English,isTimor’s bestguide,and of alocalrajah, Pae Nope. Pae speaksflu- mandi inthegroundsof thefamilyhome littlebungalowwithand comfortable west of thecentre. vegetables) isasteal at4000Rp. heavy Padang style. Nasi sayur(ricewith foodintown,truechilli-the tastiest busy, thisisthecleanestplaceand serves Negara Indonesia;JlDiponegoro) Hayam Wuruk. ple of placesjustwestof themarket onJl andacou- onJlSoeharto (eating houses) There are three inexpensive Eating Nope’s RoyalHomestay Sleeping The Information (2500Rp). bemos cover Niki (5000Rp) and Kapan and Oinlasi (9000Rp,1½ hours), while hours), Kefamenanu (17,000Rp,2½ hours) toKupang (22,000Rp, three go from Soe of town(1000Rpbybemo).Regular buses The Haumeni busterminal is4kmwest &Away There Getting priced. Should bebackpacker-friendly andbudget in thecentre of townatthetimeof research. owners were planningtoupgradethisplace 4000-18,000Rp; egoro) Indonesia; JlHatta) ra’s finest. upSumat- the bunch onthisstreet. Serves area andcanarrange guides.Both 586 Hotel Bahagia I Bahagia Hotel Hotel Bahagia II Bahagia Hotel Rumah Makan Niki Niki Niki Makan Rumah Bundo Kanduang Bundo Kanduang tourist informationcentre tourist has good detail onthesurrounding hasgooddetail WEST TIMOR••AroundSoe h breakfast, lunch&dinner) h banks have ATMs, butex- breakfast, lunch&dinner) ( % ( ( % % 21015; JlDiponegoro72) ( % 22079; Jl Gajah Mada; dishes Mada; 22079; JlGajah 21095; Jl Gajah Mada 55;r Mada 21095; JlGajah

(Jl Soeharto; dishes5000- Soeharto; (Jl andBRI 21711; Jl Merpati 8;bun- 21711; JlMerpati One very spruce

( % rumah makan Thebestof 21149; JlDipon-

It’s 1.5km (Bank Rakyat (Bank Rakyat Always BNI An The (Bank card ortelephone cardwill suffice. want toadd tothe collection, abusiness given tohisfather over the years. Ifyou a treasure-trove of name cardsandphotos tribute asizable donation(about 15,000Rp). son. Daytrippers are alsoexpected tocon- with allmealsprovided for50,000Rpperper- withtherajahpossible tostay inhishouse asagift.It’s be placedinthetray onthetable where,house, traditionally, betel nutshould income. group, providing anadditional sourceof of visitors, including theoccasionaltour on benefits,forthevillage attractsatrickle fluence have adopted Protestantism. who live inBoti’sgeographical realm of in- another700neighbouring families though follow ancientanimistreligious rituals, shunned, andBoti’s300orsovillagers still are married).Indonesianeducationislargely their hairgrowlong(thisisonly after they remaining villages inTimor where menlet with naturaldyes.Botiisoneof thelast made fromhandspunthread andcoloured very andshawls specialshirts, ikatsarongs cotton maybeworn,andthevillagers wear of thestrictlaws hasvowedtomaintain Benu est sonof anelderlychief whodiedin2005. theyoung- calledBenu, kepala suku(chief) is presided over byacharismatic young the road, tain traditional village of Boti Oinlasi alongarecently improved moun- In anisolatedvalley,12kmfrom mountain Boti about fourhours. A direct busfromKupangmakes thetripin until 2pm,butit’satitsbestbefore 10am. earlyinthemorningandcontinues starts be found,butget there early.Themarket betel-nut containers can elaborately carved masksand tional ikat.Weavings, carvings, ing hilldistricts,manywearingtheirtradi- and attractsvillagers fromthesurround- one of thebiggest andbestinWestTimor in around1½hours. ItsTuesdaymarket is roadto along awindingmountain Oinlasi make fromSoe the51kmtrip Regular buses Oinlasi AROUND SOE The new chief will probablyshow you On arrivalyouwill beledtotherajah’s The adherence totraditionhasknock- Only clothesmadefromlocallygrown adat. Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com a 2.5km walk tothefalls. fromwheredrop youonthe highway, itis Falls TheKapan, 10kmfromSoe. will buses out plantsandanimals alongtheway. guided walksup GunungMutis,pointing trip toBoti. isaround170,000Rpforafull-day from Soe mal keeps therest. andtheownerofas compensation, theani- meatisdistributed tothefarmer assessed, kill it.Theamountof cropdamage isthen to animal eatinghiscropshehastheright partsifafarmercatches anfor inthese fences isdesignedtokeep theanimalsin, village.of Thesystem Bele of gates and hour walk. able bymotorcycleorcar–it’sathree- then 9kmonarocky,hillyroadthat’spass- road for2kmtotheturn-offBoti.Itis From Oinlasi,take abussouthonthemain THERE&AWAYGETTING www.lonelyplanet.com coast of and has the island110km from Soe The village of Kolbano isonthe southern Kolbano (per personinclallmeals 50,000Rp) Mattheusfrom Soe. Anin hasa pine scenery,oryoucantake abemothere moreaway andhaseven al- spectacular some trucksrunto can see is situated onsteepslopesfromwhere you roads are blocked Thevillage withstalls. interesting market onThursday, whenthe Kapan is21km northof andhasan Soe Kapan link NikiandSoe. andbemos accommodation. Regularbuses market andacoupleof restaurants, butno Nope. The village hasabusyWednesday one imposingstructure belongingtoRajah some oldroyalgraves andtwopalaces, Soe–Kefamenanu roadandisthesite of Niki is34km eastof alongthe Soe Niki Niki find aguide. withlocal sant visit independently;bringaguideconver- On thewayto Kapan are the Bring water Abemocharter fromSoe. gates theseven through passes The road The Botichief requests thatyoudonot (2470m).FromKapan, Gunung Mutis adat isthebestplaceto . Soe Fatumasi, which is20km

here andleads homestay Oahala Oahala

fan 40,000Rp,withair-con95,000-150,000Rp; fast, lunch anddinner). (dishes 6000Rpto18,000Rp;open break- accommodation andadecentrestaurant Well-run placethathasgood-value, clean Ariesta Hotel Sleeping &Eating Telkom office Post office Dinas Pariwisata 2.5km northof thebusterminal. old market, pasarlama , which isaround Kefa isasprawlingplace. Itcentres onthe &Information Orientation gle over. bring ikattothehotels forvisitors tohag- weavingtant region andlocalssometimes as Kefa, itliesattheheartof animpor- ple of impressive churches. Knownlocally andhasacou- remains Catholic devoutly it stronghold; town wasonceaPortuguese walksinthesurroundinghills.The pleasant Kefamenanu isaquiethilltownwithsome % KEFAMENANU 8pm thatleaves fromthe Rumah Makan from 6amuntil about 4pm, and another at toKupang (36,000Rp,5½ hours)ular buses of the towncentre. Fromhere there are reg- Terminal BusKefa isafew kilometres south &Away There Getting with bathroom70,000Rp,air-con90,000Rp; lunch &dinner) sometimes continuetoKolbano. buses isolatedthrough communities.Se’i along atwisting,dippingroadthatgoes thereFrom Soe, are regular toSe’i buses road (aboutsixhours over adecentroad). bus fromNoilminaontheKupang–Soe May andAugust.Theeasiestaccessisby white-sand beaches andgoodsurfbetween motorcycles. bemos andfinda guide;theyalsorent out canhelpyoucharter a quietlocation.Staff coming placehasgoodroomsand enjoys hotelmost comfortable intown,thiswel- and canhelpyoufindaguide. ofthehighway, office isoppositetheplayingfieldnorth with fresh seafood and Chinese delicacies. with fresh andChinese seafood Cendana Hotel Litani 0388 /pop30,000 (Jl ElTari;(Jl dishes8000-23,000Rp; (Jl Imam Bonjol) Opposite the market. ImamBonjol)Oppositethemarket. (Jl WEST TIMOR••Kefamenanu

(Jl Sudirman; (Jl ( The bestinKefa, aclean place % ( % 31007; Jl Basuki Rachmat; r45,000Rp, Rachmat; 31007; JlBasuki ( % 21520; Jl Sudirman) The tourist 21520; JlSudirman)Thetourist 31168; JlSonbay;rwithmandi& h 7am-midnight) h a breakfast, ) The a 587

)

NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA mended has a coupleof hotels, including therecom- town 60km south,near the coast,which on Monday at7am.Betun isaprosperous Kalabahi, hours), Alor(25,600Rp, seven north, butthere’s ferry only oneweekly to this isparticularly trueforAustralians. encounter someanti-Western resentment; most localsare perfectly friendlyyoumay yourself stuckhere, be aware thatthough there’s noreason tovisitatall.Ifyoudofind As there are nowdirect Dili–Kupang buses workers were murdered in2000. inAtambua aroundhere,hands –settled whilethree UN Timorfrom East –somewithbloodontheir bers of pro-Jakarta refugees andmilitias reasons inthepastfew years. Largenum- that hashittheheadlinesforall wrong Timor totheborderwithEast town close isananonymous-looking,scruffy Atambua % ATAMBUA &AROUND charterwise, abemoinManufui. toTemkessi.should runthrough Other- day inManufui (Saturday), trucksorbuses fui, about8kmfromTemkessi. Onmarket useful. Indonesiaisspoken,hasa soaguideisvery lage. There’s lotsof weaving, butlittleBa- sits ontopof rocksoverlooking the vil- twohugebetween rocks.Therajah’s house hilltop, itsonlyentranceisasmallpassage of ona because itsisolation.Sittinghigh east of Kefa, Temkessi few travellers sees A traditionalvillage around50kmnorth- Temkessi asthe‘palace’of thelocalrajah. served isafineDutchin Oelolok bungalowthat Taolina Tuesdaymarket. Rajah The Istana by busandafurther3kmbemo. Ithas isaweavingOelolok village 26kmfromKefa Oelolok AROUND KEFAMENANU easier tovisitDili. quired tocomebackWestTimor –it’s isre-now apain,asanIndonesianvisa hours). Goingtotheenclave of is Oecussi 2½ hours) (13,000Rp,two andAtambua (17,000Rp, runto/fromSoe Regular buses Minang Jaya, neartheHotel Cendana. 588 is the port for Atambua, 25km istheportforAtambua, Atapupu runfromKefaRegular buses toManu- 0389 /pop36,500 ROTE Cinta Dama (r 90,000Rp) , and restau- exchanges foreign currencies. ner) For a point-and-eat spicymeal. ner) Forapoint-and-eat bathroom 75,000Rp,withair-con110,000Rp; 25,000/40,000Rp) Negara Indonesia; lish andDutch. rooms. Theowner,Pak Manik, speaksEng- which hassimple,well-keptstyle house sally understood.sally Indonesia is almost univer- Bahasa though language similartothe Tetum of Timor, and some of Tenggara’s Nusa bestsurf. enous cultures, afew villages beautifulcoastal text, p590 ). There are someinteresting indig- theboxed palm(see tic andnutritious lontar onthemajes-has asuccessfuleconomy based Timortween andSumba,islittlevisited but islandof The small,rain-starved Rote, be- ROTE theboxedsee text, p578 . more aboutthetripover details theborder, leave fromtheothersidewhen full.For forDili(US$3) 5000Rp (40minutes). Buses Timorto theMotoainborderwithEast cost (4000Rp,40minutes).and Atapupu Bemos hours)include Kupang(52,000Rp,eight (1000Rp bymikrolet 3or4).Destinations andKupang. Atambua Merpati between aweek hastwoflights &Away There Getting Padang Raya Kalpataru Hotel Sleeping &Eating There’s abrochure-free Information overthe sunset atKletek. themountains flyingfoxesBolan –youcansee andwatch the nearbyvillages of rants. Afew intrepid travellers have visited Jl Basuki Rahmat 2) Rahmat Jl Basuki lunch &dinner)GoodforChinesefood. Estry Makan Rumah from thecentre. tothebusterminal butafairwalk close rooms.It’s best intown,withcomfortable Hotel NusantaraDua Hotel The slightly built The slightly speak aRotenese The busterminal is1kmnorthof town Tuck inhere: Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com (Jl Soekarno; Soekarno; (Jl Acentrallylocated colonial- h andabranch of BNIbank ( % 8.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) (Jl Merdeka 11; Merdeka (Jl 21351; Jl Gatot Subroto3;s/d 21351; JlGatot

( h % , Kletek tourist office tourist www.lonelyplanet.com breakfast, lunch&din- 21773; Jl Kasimo; rwith 21773; JlKasimo; and Kamanasa h breakfast, a ( % , which ) The 21483; (Bank Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com Karya desperate. and changes money atuglyrates forthe rooms. Themanager speaksgoodEnglish www.lonelyplanet.com Kupang, asexchanging moneyisdifficult. coral beaches. Bringplenty of cashfrom sparsely populated andhassomesuperb the ferry portatPantai is toBa’a Baru traditional ancestorcults.Thecoast from which are connected withwith carvings, have curiousboat-shaped thatched roofs to offer travellers, somehouses though have Rote’s maintown,doesn’t Ba’a, alot Ba’a can bearranged. hirerestaurant rates intown.Car athigh rooms, allwithbathrooms, andhasthebest besthotel. It offersis Ba’a’s avarietyof Kartini 1;perperson20,000Rp) Kartini Pabean) 55,000/80,000Rp, with air-con100,000/125,000Rp; made from buffalo milk that’scooked until made frombuffalo waters justtothesouth. toillegallyfishinAustralian speedboats use forshark-fin fishermenwho base important on the5000Rpnote. stringed instrument,the 20- and dancing;thetraditionalRotenese alsolovehelmet ormast).Rotenese music representing palm,oraPortuguese alontar the frontlike aunicorn’s horn(perhaps which hasacuriousspike stickingupnear the wide-brimmed hat, lontar that hasn’tdisappeared isthewearingof design) motifsare typical.Onetradition ral andpatola (traditionalgeometric ikat cal dyes,butthedesignsare complex:flo- weaving mainlychemi- onRote todayuses people adhere totheoldtraditions.Ikat thereences, though are stillareas where into theregion’s elite. school system turnedthem thateventually and, withDutch a support,established presence, graduallyadopted Christianity advantage of begantaking theDutchnese theRote-and suppliesfortheDutch. Later campaign, Rote becamethesourceof slaves Ricky Hotel Just offJlPabean, Both near thetowncentre, Shops the localdelicacy, sell In recent years theislandhasbecomean areThe Rotenese opentooutsideinflu- In thelate 17thcentury,after abloody (Jl Pabean) (Jl serve basic meals. serve Lumayah andWarungMakan ( % 871045; Jl Gereja; s/dwithfan871045; JlGereja;

Pondok WisataKarya hasbasicbudget sasando Rumah Makan Makan Rumah susu goreng ti’i langga , features a

(Jl (Jl ) , ,

beachresort.com; beachresort.com; trips fordog-toothed tunaand other fish to other nearby surf breaks, and fishing canwhiskyou out things off. Aspeedboat and lobster, with chocolate cake toround including sashimi inseafood, specialises and outdoorbathrooms. Therestaurant ury stone-and-timber villaswithporches this newlyrenovated, tasteful resort haslux- the homestay’s nearthecorner.the homestay’s berala, theroadswingsaroundto theleft; with shared andablockoforiginal house better rooms ex-schoolmaster. Ithaswornroomsinthe eccentric,elderlyandamusingslightly speak goodEnglish. by thekepaladesa the dirtroadfor500myou’llreach it.Run ner nearMrTomasandheadnorth along near thebeach.at thecor- Ifyouturnright 50,000Rp) perpersoninclmeals35,000- [email protected]; season. little inhigh a Thepricesquotedhomestays. belowrise ofNemberala hasasmallselection simple SLEEPING &EATING tourist centre ontheisland. good accommodationandistheonlyreal the moniker T-land. Nemberalahassome May‘left’ between and October,earningit with white-sandbeaches andalegendary is awonderful,relaxed village littlecoastal A surfers’ secret formanyyears, Nemberala Nemberala Karya on theisland.There isonehotel, theWisma Every Saturdayithoststhebiggest market east of on abeautifulharbour. Rote isset This MuslimBugisfishingvillage inthefar Papela tai Baru over Baru tai thebest roadontheisland. gotoPapelabet. Buses andPan- fromBa’a 50,000Rp) surf break. tothemain back fromthebeach, but close and roomswithwithout much, andvery butitissweet tasty. it becomesabrownpowder. look Itdoesn’t Tirosa Losmen Anugurah Mr TomasHomestay Nemberala Beach Resort (Jl Lorong Asem) (Jl Thissurfers’ favourite hascoldbeer Thispopularplaceisrunbya (per personinclmeals35,000-50,000Rp) mandi. As youcomeintoNem- as , butadaytripisbetter )

andhisfamily,who Right onthe ocean, Right ( (per personinclmeals35,000- % satellite 086812108916; ROTE ••Ba’a

. It’s set mandi. It’sset (www.nemberala Right Right

589 NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA boat toNdaoinNemberala. and silversmiths. It’spossibletocharter a related andare to Sabunese renowned gold berala. Thepeoplehere speakalanguage lontar-tapping island,10kmwestof Nem- get here, rent amotorcycleinNemberala. is stillfollowed.Market dayisThursday. To villages onRote where traditional religion the northerncoast,and beaches are primeturtle-nestingterritory. andawidevarietyof has wilddeer birds.Its island turnedred withvictims’blood.Ndana the 17thcenturyandsmalllake onthe population wasmurdered inarevenge actin theentirethe islandisuninhabited because by boatfromNemberala. hasitthat Legend approached fromTudamedatotheeast. also hasasuperbbeach butismore easily Bo’a fromNemberala. Furthereast, surf. Itispossibletorent amotorcycleto white-sandbeachspectacular andgood About 8kmfromNemberala, Around Nemberala website tomake arrangements. at thetimeof goingtopress. Consultthe can bearranged. Priceswere notavailable 590 cancelled due to rough seas. cancelled due torough is sometimes returning atnoon. Theservice hours), leaving Kupang at 8amdailyand regular linkwith Kupang(32,000Rp, 1½ research the with thelossof manylives. Atthetimeof Rote andKupang. Merpati hasaFridayconnection between &Away There Getting PulauNdaoisanotherikat-weaving and Boniisabout15kmfromNemberala,near The islandof The Rote–Kupang ferry in2006, sank ginlike aroundthelanesofRote. distillation thejuiceisdistilledintoawhich ishawked Withafurther from onetree annually).Ifthe nirah isarefreshing, nutritiousandenergy-giving sourceofliquid (upto600Lcanbetapped grow fromthecrownoflontarthatnourishesislanders. Drunkstraightfromthetree the it’s themilky,frothynirah (sap)tappedfromthetankai inflorescences) (orange-stemmed that sandals, roofs, anddividingwalls. Lontarwood is fashionedintofurniture andfloorboards. But is extremely versatile; itstoughyetflexible leaves are woven sacksandbags,hats tomake lation density,Rote dependentonthedrought-resistant isextraordinarily lontarpalm.The palm ofNusaTenggara,With adryseasonthat’smore pronouncedthaninotherparts andhighpopu- PALM LONTAR SUMBA sopi –thepowerbehindmanyalocalfiesta. Kandari Express wasthe only Pulau Ndanacanbereached is oneof thelast nirah islefttoferment forhoursitbecomes Bo’a hasa Oeseli regions; theyare a symbol of and wealth are astransport inmore stillused rugged sia’s leading horse-breeding islands. Horses extensive grasslands madeitoneof Indone- and fields of maizeand cassava. Sumba’s side characterised bylowlimestonehills the volcanicislands tothenorth,itscountry- funerals. bloody sacrificial hand-spunikatand lith tombs,outstanding mega- carved colossal thatched clanhouses, appeal courtesy ofoff-the-beaten-track its cinating islandstovisit,withadecidedly rapu. centred onareligious traditioncalled the richest tribalculture Tenggara, inNusa The dry,undulatingislandof Sumba has SUMBA orNemberala. possible inBa’a perhaps 180,000Rp.Motorcyclehire is also 400,000Rp aday.Chartering abemoisless, a caranddriver, butthiswillcostaround ResortinNemberalacanarrange ala Beach take youanywhere, includingNemberala. more remote locations.Otherwise pela inthemorning,whiletrucksservice andatleastonebemorunstoPa-alangga, are limited. connectionsaroundthe islandotherwise Pantai theferry; around10amtomeet Baru on theferry leave timetable.Buses for Ba’a Most bustransportaroundtheislandrelies Nemberala (3½hours) andothertowns. Pantai (1½hours), andruntoBa’a Baru A packof andbemosgreet buses boatsat Around Getting Physically itlooksquite different from andtheNember-The Hotel RickyinBa’a to Bus- Regular bemosrunfromBa’a It’s oneof thepoorest butmostfas- www.lonelyplanet.com laru (apalmwine), ojeks will ma- of theregion. good transportconnectionswiththerest rewarding placetoexplore andhasfairly Few travellers make ithere, butit’sadeeply everywhere, Sumbahassixmainlanguages. put thetruenumberatover 100). ing toofficialfigures manylocals (though bubak, abattlethatclaimed26lives accord- around 3000tribesmenclashedinWaika- rival princedoms.As recently as1998 tensions, which periodicallyeruptbetween teams of mounted horseriders. vals, which involve ritualbattlesbetween Sumba’s terrific, often-violent Pasola festi- conflicts are recalled atwestern year every Protestant, mostislandersThough are nowofficially two-thirds of theisland’s540,000people. remote western half,which ishometoabout strong initswetter, more fertile andmore part of thebride-price. andhave as status used traditionallybeen www.lonelyplanet.com through them.When the Indonesian re-through continued to reign and the Dutch ruled nobility the Sumbanese up,although set and invaded theisland. decided tobringSumba undertheircontrol But intheearly 20th centurytheyfinally trade.sibilities except some sandalwood it lackedSumba because commercial pos- other islands. trated onikatproduction andtradewith peopleconcen- dyewoods, whilecoastal horses, timber,betel nut,rice,fruitand nomically. Theinlandregions produced doms often depended oneach othereco- kingdoms. agreat between ing rights number of petty ofsaga internal wars over land andtrad- historyismorejapahits. ButSumbanese a place Sumbaunderthecontrolof theMa- on thenortherntipof theisland. atTanjungSumba, andtheysettled Sasar, it clambered thefirst peopleonearthto once connected heaven andearth.Down According tolocal legend agreat ladder History Indonesia isspoken While someBahasa battleshintatdeep-rooted tribal These Sumba’s traditionsremain particularly In 1913 a civilianadministration was The Dutch initiallypaid littleattention to Despite theirmutualhostility,prince- Fourteenth-century Javanese chronicles marapu traditionsandold shawl. or bymen asasarong clothused tangular known as a the Dutch coat-of-arms. nontraditional designs, such aslions,from tors were already notingthe introductionof have finecollections), andbythe1920svisi- museums (theRotterdam andBasel seums collected byDutch ethnographers andmu- tion. Fromthelate 19th centuryikatwas market, which inturnincreased produc- tion of ikatandopenedupalarge external nobility’s monopolyontheproduc- banese before burial. resembledso thatthecorpse a huge mound with dozens–sometimeshundreds –more, dressed inthefinesttextiles, then bound wasdecorated costumes.Thedeceased guards of were thecorpse dressed inrichly at royalfunerals,where dancers andthe The mostimpressive of use theclothwas personal attendants couldmake orwearit. members of clansandtheir Sumba’s highest than90years ago,only rituals.Less harvest on specialoccasions;forexample, tomark mythical creatures are alsodepicted. wield spears. Ahuge varietyof animalsand enemies dangleofftrees andmounted riders ing of theDutch –theskullsof vanquished wars andanage thatendedwiththecom- form apictorialhistory:record of tribal yellow huesderived fromloba from thekombutree bark,indigoblue,and dyes stillpredominate: earthyorange-red very prizedbycollectors, highly asnatural arguably best-executed inIndonesia. It’s Sumbanese ikat isthemostdramatic,and IKAT Culture jobs regardless of college grades. connectionsgettingright localgovernment applicantswiththe the nepotismthatsaw initially sparked by demonstrationsagainst into afull-scaletribalconflict.Theriotswere ing localgovernment appointments. continue toexert hegemony bymonopolis- to exert rulingclans influence. Todaythese ment officials,sotheirfamiliescontinued authority, manyof thembecamegovern- torecognise thenativepublic ceased rulers’ A Sumbanese woman’s ikat sarong is woman’sikat sarong A Sumbanese The Dutch conquestbroke theSum- only Traditionally, ikatclothwasused The 1998Waikabubak riotsdeveloped lau. Ahinggi SUMBA ••History isalarge rec- leaves. Motifs

591 NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA 592 0 20 km SUMBA 0 12 miles To Sape To Labuanbajo To Ende SUMBA (100km) (150km) (130km) Selat Sumba Tanjung Sasar

Wunga Mananca MAMBORO Lenang Waikelo Tambulaka Napu Maru Airport Manuakalada Radamata Rambangaru Purau Kambera Waitabula Tambulaka Tanjung Laundi Malata To Sabu (130km); Mondu KODI Kori Waimangura Bondowoeg WEST Kupang (300km) Maderi Bukabani Lingulango SUMBA Prailiang WEJEWA Lawonda Wudi BARAT Praikarambua Pantai Waiyengo Tanareu Waibanca Londolima Bondokodi Tosi Rara Elopada Praigege Pondok Pero Paranobaroro Weeleo Tambera Teluk Tanjung Watuata Ratenggaro WEJEWA Kanatang Waingapu S A W U LOLI Kondamara Pantai Wainyapu Denduka Kater TIMUR Pasunga S E A Tosi Waikelo Tandulajangga Waingapu Sawah Waikabubak Makatakeri Tangga Weha GAURA Watumbaka Dikira Lai Tarung ANAKALANG Madita Kahira Kahale Bondomarotto Kabonduk Makamenggit Kawangu Panenggoede Praiijing Maujawa LAMBOYA Gallubakul Gunung Gaura Padede Weri Lewa Pulupanjang Sodan Praipaha Mauliru Watumandeta Taramanu (888m) Kadenga Padede Watu Ngadulanggi Patiala Praibakul Pantai Patiala Kabukarudi Watumbelar EAST Maubakat Praigoli Waigalli WANOKAKA Pantai Marosi Lamandunga SUMBA Kotakawau Rua Waihura Petawang Watukarere Kondomalaba Lahara Lumbung Pantai Pantai Nihiwatu Rua Umamanu Kadolu Wanokaka Praibakul Mahubokul Lajuli Waiholi Kataka Tidas Melolo Umabara Pau Tarimbang Meurumba Kamanghi Karita Laimeta Laimbonga Praiyawang Melahar Tapil Kaninumbaru Maukabuni Tatung Tanarara Teluk Hanggaroru Kamataw Mambong Praingkareha Haikatapu Lolangbokul Lepanjir Tammo Kabaaru Nusa Kananggar I N D I A N Mburukulu Ramuk MANGILI O C E A N Wahang Gunung Warambadi Wanggameti Katakliu Tanjung

(1225m) Ngalu Undu www.lonelyplanet.com Tawui Kabenda Pamburu Kaliuda Aukakehok Lai Tunggi Hanggaroro Langgai WAIJELU Nggongi Baing Laiwita Katundu Hambautang Pantai Pulau Manukangga Kallala Kotak Pulau Salura Tanjung Pulau Ngunju Manggudu they continuetothrive inthe west. insomeareasthough traditionsare dying, white teethwere considered ugly. brown teethfromthetimewhenjagged died out,butsomeolderpeoplehave short Another custom,teethfiling,hasallbut motifsthatadornhersarong. be thesame first child asamarkof often status; itwill afterhave thebirthof her her legs tattooed cloth hangingdowninfront.Awomanmay thirds of theirlegs,withalongpieceof coloured thelowertwo- toexpose sarongs asturbansandwraptheirbrightly scarves tucked intotheir waistband. Theywear long-bladed knife inawoodensheath a dowry. migrate justtofindwives whodon’texpect men andmanySumbanese can stillbehigh, thebridedowry though, bicycle. Certainly, includea –todayitmight and buffaloes bride-price mayhave coloured been beads but nolonger huntheads;25years agothe change: stillmake theSumbanese textiles Old beliefsfade,customsdieandrituals SUMABANESE TRADITIONS www.lonelyplanet.com before abruptly rising toa peak.In theloft slopes gently upwards fromall foursides (or nowadays often corrugated-iron) roof anextended family.The thatchedit houses large rectangular structure onpiles; raised ikat. popular motifon Sumbanese insome villages todayand arebe seen a skulltrees,These called while ceremonies and feasts tookplace. hung onadead tree inthevillage square times theheadsof slainenemies wouldbe tually alwaysmadeof cement.Informer butnowadaysvir-usually finelycarved, stone-slab tombsof ancestors, important marapu whenplantingorharvesting. and are forofferings used totheagricultural also befoundinthefieldsaround village structures,These spiritstonesor village’s protective top of it,onwhich offerings are madetothe square isastonewithanotherflat on with asquare Inthemiddleof between. the two parallelrowsof facingeach other, houses A traditionalSumbavillage usuallyconsistsof VILLAGES Churches are and nowacommonsight, Many menstillcarrytheir Sumbanese A traditional Sumbanese dwellingisaA traditionalSumbanese The village square the alsocontains marapu (spiritualforces).

andung, canstill kateda , can believe you can believe didn’t alter basicattitudes. TheSumbanese duced the numberof animals killed,but it struction of hundreds of livestock. This re- inanattemptslaughter tax tostopthede- founded, thegovernment introduced a feed themall. the deceased move the blockof stone, andthefamilyof cedure. Sometimeshundreds are to needed the village partof isanimportant thepro- ofthe dragging thetombstone fromoutside tion of amassive stone-slab tomb.Often emonial funeral,accompaniedby the erec- accumulatedwealth hasbeen fora fullcer- given atemporary burial)until enough stored intheloft of or thefamily’shouse years (thebodyof sometimes thedeceased from Tanjung Sasar. viaaladder which, isaccessed somesay, the deadcanenter theinvisibleworld– by themarapu mameti as possibletoavoid beingreprimanded The livingmustburytheirdead as richly sirih ceremonially killedandornaments a areOn thedayof burial,horses orbuffaloes DEATH CEREMONIES like theJavanese idea of centrated placesorobjects,much incertain placed onearthbygod;theirpoweriscon- marapu are maluri theoriginalpeople the deadcanbeharmfulifirritated.The help, especiallytheirownrelatives, though people. Thelivingcanappealtothem for mameti isthecollective nameforall dead influence theworldof theliving. the invisibleworld,fromwhere theycan and ancestors.join Atdeaththedeceased the spiritualforces,includinggods,spirits gion ismarapu The basisof traditional reli-Sumbanese RELIGION or pigs’jawsfrompastsacrifices. Many are houses horns decked withbuffalo to cutopenachicken andexamineitsliver. rapu planting thefirst pillar,tofindoutifthema- includeanoffering,house atthetimeof below. see details, are placedmarapu objects.Formore maluri When theIndonesian republic was Funerals maybedelayedforupto10 Rituals accompanyingthebuildingof a (betel nut)bagare buriedwiththebody. agree withthelocation;onemethodis take itwith you. , acollective term forall SUMBA ••Culture semangat. andtoensure Marapu

593 NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA into ahome. you enter avillage, you’re walking ineffect a customeroralien.Rememberthat, when helps themtotreat youmore asaguestthan thetimetochatgo, taking withthevillagers visiting villages alone. Nomatter where you pected of guestsfor youtofeel confident teach aboutthebehaviour youenough ex- andtheywilllikelyany language difficulties, the wrongsituation.Aguidesmooths over help andsomeprotection fromgetting into a guide,atleasttoisolated villages, isabig taking piah. Whatever thecircumstances, and youshoulddonate afew ru- thousand which villagers willproduceforyoutosign, and toothervillage elders. welcome. yourgiftstothe Offer Sumba, orafew cigarettes willalwaysbe hosts. Youcanbuyitatmostmarkets in is thetraditionalwayof greeting guestsor 594 the streets touting for custom. hang around hotels orwalk and carvings shops, and traders withbundles of textiles The town hasafew ikatshopsand work- pal attractions lieinthewest andsoutheast. buttheisland’sprinci- Sumba byairorsea, horses, dyewoods andlumber. post fortextiles, much-prized Sumbanese Sumba’smaintrading and haslongbeen Dutch ‘pacified’ theislandin1906 military It becameanadministrative centre after the roosters putpaidtoanychance of aliein. the countrysideinspiritandlocation that to modest hotels andwarungs,butsoclose toboastafewout town:urbanenough Waingapu isanenjoyable, dusty,spread- % WAINGAPU likely tobeoffended. puttingitintheirfaces,they’reand start and ifyousimplyturnupwithacamera may bepuzzledabout whyyou’ve come; want todoischat andlookaround,they you downasapotential trader. Ifallyou weavings orotherartefacts, thevillagers put ‘exotic’ culture. Ifyou’re interested intheir an Westerners whosimplywanttoobserve ficulty understanding thestrange customof tomed totourists,butmanystillhave dif- Many villagers Sumbanese are nowaccus- VISITING VILLAGES Many placesalsokeep avisitors’ book, Waingapu isthe mainentrypointto On Sumba,giving 0387 /pop50,000 SUMBA ••Waingapu sirih

pinang (betel nut) kepala desa tourists. stairs built fora mythical breed of gigantic clear days; accesstothe4th floorisbysome floor, from where Flores on canbe seen uponthe4th brekkiementary isserved the noisieststreet inSumba. Yourcompli- most are directly opposite on afuel station rooms here are smart,clean andtiled,but ste withhotwater 154,000/176,000Rp; 110,000/132,000Rp, 88,000/110,000Rp, with air-con&TV a mandi 55,000/66,000Rp,withair-con140,000/200,000Rp; owner, are friendlyandhelpful. asidefromthe cation’s quietandthestaff, a littlemore love andattention, but thelo- of pretty of rooms,someinneed spartan s 25,000-50,000Rp,d35,000-60,000Rp) Breakfast places. isincludedatallthese Sleeping Telkom office to theharbour. Post office BRI bank Daniel Lanjamana bridge totraditionalvillage life inSumba– guides surfaceathotels andare auseful the market andbus terminal. Freelance tour centre, which is1.5kmsoutheastaround bour inthenorthof townandthemain Waingapu stretches itssmallhar- between &Information Orientation rooms isworthconsidering too. spacious roomswithwardrobes andbath- town. Anolderwingwithmuch cheaper, best air-con rooms,allwithverandas, in the blue-roofed Elvinshouldprovide the nearly complete whenwevisited, meaning con from121,000/143,000Rp; 44,000/66,000Rp, withmandi77,000/121,000Rp, withair- BNI bank streets westof themarket. had itthatacybercaféwastoopeninthe ternet rumour accessonSumba,though and isrecommended. functioning. Usuallyhasthebestrates. functioning. not that acceptsmostcardsintheory,thoughit’soften with tired-looking slightly bour, these rooms ATM here onlyacceptsMastercard/Cirrus. Hotel Elvin Hotel Hotel LimaSaudara Hotel Merlin Hotel At thetimeof research there wasnoin- Hotel SandleWood Hotel ) A total renovation Atotal of onewingwas mandis have little frontporches. Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com (Bank Rakyat Indonesia;JlAhmadYani) (BankRakyat The (BankNegaraIndonesia;JlAmpera)HasanATM (Jl Hasanuddin; (Jl (Jl Tjut NyaDien; (Jl ( % ( % 61462; JlAhmadYani 73;s/dwith ( 61300; JlPanjaitan 25;s/dwithfan %

( % ( h 62950) % a www.lonelyplanet.com 61199; JlPanjaitan 23;s/d 8am-4pm Mon-Fri) Close 8am-4pm Mon-Fri) 61083; JlWanggameti2; h ) Offers avariety Offers speaksEnglish 24hr) Near thehar- a ) The sate andwonderfulfresh mangojuice. mains 13,000-24,000Rp; www.lonelyplanet.com banese ikatand artefacts. Vendorsbanese alsoset Waingapu has afew Sum- ‘artshops’ selling Shopping 8000-18,000Rp; warungs –pick‘n’mixadish ortwo. style foodcourtwitharowof inexpensive The newKomplekRukoisanIndonesian- Eating favourites. dishes, complemented byafew Western A variedmenuof and Indonesian Chinese 25,000Rp; Indonesian favourites. running placewithagood-value line-upof though notofthough thetriple-distilled variety. the like. Alsohascappuccinoand‘vodka’ – and chips toregular fromT-bonewith everything steak andfish 17,500Rp; Waikabubak (137km) Londolima (5km);Kambera(22km); Terminal (5km);Darmaga To WestSumbaBus 1 3 2 WAINGAPU Rumah Makan Restu Ibu Restu Makan Rumah Mr Café Mr Café Steak House Steak Nazareth Makan Rumah Transnusa...... Pelni...... Merpati...... Bus &BemoTerminal...... ASDP...... Hotel SandleWood...... (see8) C3 Steak House...... Rumah MakanRestuIbu...... Rumah MakanNazareth...... Mr Café...... Hotel SandleWood...... Hotel Merlin...... Hotel LimaSaudara...... Hotel Elvin...... Telkom...... Post Office...... BRI Bank...... BNI Bank...... TRANSPORT SHOPPING EATING SLEEPING INFORMATION h h breakfast, lunch&dinner) AC ( breakfast, lunch&dinner) % h ( % 62256; KomplekRuko,dishes7000- breakfast, lunch&dinner) 61751; KomplekRuko;dishes8000- Pier h

breakfast, lunch&dinner) 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

C2 B1 B1 D3 C2 C2 D3 C3 D3 D3 C1 C3 B2 C1 C3 C3 (Jl IrJuanda1,dishes (Jl (Jl WYLalamentik; (Jl Sports Old Pier Field A great choice,

4

Waingapu Nya Dien Nya

Serves good Serves Teluk Jl Tjut Jl Jl Kartini 16

, roti and , rotiand B Jl Soekarno Pasar Sudarso Yos Jl Long-

Mosque Jl Hatta 15 Sutomo Jl

Jl Su Jl oneg

Jl oro Dip Jl Ir Juanda dirman 3 6 11 the leftabout800malongthisroad. left after 400mintoJlHawan Waruk.It’son on thesouthernsideof Waingapuandturn sale. Toget there, headsouthof thebridge theextensivebrowse piecesfor high-quality action, have thedyingprocess explainedand ikat workshop whereweavers youcansee in West Sumba. from Tambulaka toDenpasar services in to/from Kupang.Therea week are more musty backroom. a huge collection of ikattucked awayina Merpati AIR &Away There Getting and one toTambaluka. toKupang, two toDenpasar a week flights the countryside. and there’s farmore choice here thanin Prices intowncanactuallybe very fair, some willsquatthere patientlyall day. infrontofup impromptustalls thehotels – Jl Wanggameti Jl Hasanuddin 13 Hotel SandleWood Hotel Transnusa Ama Tukang Church 17

(

% Jl Ahmad Yani Ahmad Jl

61323; Jl Soekarno 4) 61323; JlSoekarno

Jl Ampera Jl ( Lalamentik WJ Jl 0 0 % (

% Jl El Tari 12 61489; JlAhmad Yani) 9 62414; JlHawanWaruk) 1 SUMBA ••Waingapu

Pasar ( 2 % 5 Komplek 14 61199; JlPanjaitan 23) Ruko Mosque

Jl Panjaitan 8 hasthree flights 7 To AmaTukang(1.2km); 10 D

Kawangu (10km); hasfour Dewantoro KH Jl Melolo (62km) Airport (6km); Prailiu (3km); Agood 0.3 miles

500 m

Has Has 595 NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA drop-off service forguests. drop-off service and Elvinhotels offer afree pick-upand 15,000Rp, butthe Merlin, SandleWood Melolo intotowncostsabout road.Ataxi The airportis6kmsouthof townonthe TO/FROM THEAIRPORT Around Getting Prailiang andsouthwesttoTarimbang. return day. toWaingapuonthesame Most tinuing ontoRende,NgaluandBaing. ing andafternoon toMelolo, withafew con- travel the morn- through Several and Baing. occasionally washedawayinthewet season. butwindy, andbridges are The roadissealed 7am, 8am,noonand3pmfrom the latter. (28,000Rp, fourhours) departataround 5km westof toWaikabubak town.Buses The newWestSumbaterminal isabout southern partof tothemarket. town,close goingeastisinthe The terminal forbuses BUS office subject tochange –check thematthe toPulauSabu.Schedules are regular service Flores anda (Mondayataroundmidnight) day. There’s alsoaconnectiontoAimere in hours) andontoKupangat7pmFri- returning night, toEnde(30,800Rp,seven Ende forWaingapuonThursday atmid- the centre of town.Oneferry departsfrom ferries, alldepartingfromthe oldpierin byASDP Waingapu isquite wellserviced BOAT 596 Tenggara. Even after bargaining, 450,000Rp car-hireSumba hasthe highest rates inNusa CAR &MOTORCYCLE western busterminal. tination around town, and2500Rptothe It’s 1000Rpfor a bemoridetoanydes- BEMO to Benoa in Bali. inBali. to Benoa andAlor,onthereturn trip Larantuka Kupang. The at 8pmonFridayitswaytoEndeand son. The than itlooks;bemoscharge 2500Rpperper- town. Don’ttryandwalk,asitisfurther the newerDarmagadocktowestof There are northwestto alsodailybuses headsoutheasttoMelolo,Buses Rende Pelni SUMBA ••AroundWaingapu ( % ( % Pangrano twoweeks callsinevery 61533; JlWanggameti3) 61665; JlHasanuddin) sails forEndeandonto Awu sails ships leave from . ASDP day). out withamotorcycle(from60,000Rpper hotels; don’tbotherwiththeMerlin. and petrol.TrytheElvinorSandleWood is agoodpriceperday,includingdriver villages. There’s no longer a losmen here, of tosome interesting Waingapu, isclose The small townof Melolo, 62km southeast Melolo tion fromikatvendors. visit, andbeprepared for plentyof atten- totourists– expecttohaveused topay of Sumba’sbestikat.Mostvillages are quite ancestor tombs. The area producessome tional villages, somewithstrikingstone Southeast of Waingapuare several tradi- SUMBA EAST the roadtoMelolo. stone-slab tombs,located about300moff , which has some a further7kmtoKawangu bemo terminal. Continuingsoutheast,it’s Prailiu runfromWaingapu’smain busand are to asked foracashdonation.Bemos funeral (see p593 ). Visitors tothevillage the familycanafford when thedeceased’s as wellemptygraves thatwillbefilled of crocodilesandturtles bearing carvings arethatched houses someconcrete tombs a quicklook.Alongsidesometraditional Prailiu isanikat-weaving centre that’sworth from WaingapuandMaru. Three(5000Rp) goto/ houses. dailybuses Waingapu, which hassomefinetraditional and thencometoMaru you’ll reach better aneven beach, to theshore. Continuealongthisroadand downasteephillandfollowtheroad right Diponegoro, where youtake thesecond 1kmalongJltown tothepetrolstation, under yourownsteam headwestout of terminal) passbyregularly. Toget here (the localnamefortheWestSumbabus fromTerminaland snacks.Bemos Kota store fizzydrinks ontheroadthatsells little shadeandnofacilities,exceptatiny tually emptyexceptonSunday.There’s hasareal sparklehere.but thesea It’svir- west of town.It’sanarrowstretch of sand, Londolima isafine beach about7kmnorth- AROUND WAINGAPU Virtually anyhotel worker cansortyou Three kilometres southeastof Waingapu, www.lonelyplanet.com , about35kmfrom , Kambera the breakdown of the declined duetothecostof ceremonies and Rende stillhasarajah, othertraditionshave cent pieces,butthepricesare Though high. quality ikat.You’llbeshown somemagnifi- of bigstone-slabtombsandmakes fine- south of Melolo. Ithasanimposingline-up focus of thevillage of andistheceremonial houses Sumbanese Praiyawang isatraditionalcompoundof Rende road. along agoodsealed 1½ hours) runhourlyuntilaround4pm market (1000Rp). runregularly fromtown tothe up. Bemos market day,whensome goodtextiles show on alonely,dustyhill;Fridayisthemain water isabitmurky. the village beach, although isalong,sandy mangrovesA shortwalkthrough fromthe will putupguestsfor25,000Rpperperson. but resident SonyspeakssomeEnglishand www.lonelyplanet.com Waingapu–Melolo road, from where you offload some ikatonyou. friendly. Villagers here will eagerly tryto rajah, whospeaks some English andisquite relief,deep are forrelatives of the present with images of crocodiles andturtlesin At Umabara, thelargest tombs,carved stone tombsandweavings. houses, banese southwest of Melolo, have traditional Sum- Like twovillages, Rende,these about4km Umabara &Pau around 3pm. backtoWaingapuleaveThe lastbuses at theday. bemos andtrucksrunthroughout take abustoMelolo,otherwise, fromwhere atabout 7am;Rende (9000Rp),starting Actaccordingly! family, nothotel staff. remember are thatthese members of aroyal older faces thetombs,alongwithanumber of withconcretesive house Sumbanese pillars withfigures. Amas- the mainslab,carved atop stand and 1mthick.Twostonetablets slab of stoneabout5mlongby2.5mwide pillars supportingamonstrous 2mhigh, of aformerchief. Itconsistsof fourstone Buses toMeloloBuses fromWaingapu(8000Rp, The market isabout 3kmoutof town The turn-off to thevillages is onthemain Several buses gofromWaingaputo buses Several The largest tombatPraiyawangisthat rumah adat but . It’spossibletostay,

marapu , located 7km Rende religion. minutes by boat. hour drive from Waingapu and then40 about travel totheisland, which isafour- MrDavidadds tothe appeal–contact first world-class fishing.Itsremoteness simply ing, snorkelling are (mantas common) and ing sea turtles. The ing sea beachessand are regularly visited by nest- Pulau Manggudu, exquisite white- whose trips canalsobearranged here. with satellite TV. Game-andspear-fishing that mostlyattractsurfers and abar-resto sort, hassimple,attractive beach bungalows US$35) 038761333; www.manggudu.com; all-inclusivebungalows region. uptworesortsformation andhasset inthe in Sumbaforover 30years, isamineof in- ferred eastSumba) haslived tothroughout and bigsurf. on thecoast,hasawidewhite-sand beach but haslittleof interest. Kallala, 2kmaway Waijelu district,124kmfromWaingapu, east isthemainvillageSumba. Baing of the hasemergedBaing of asthesurfcapital Thanks tothenearbybeach of Baing the coast. Kaliuda is a3kmwalkfromNgalutowards hours), Melolo passingthrough andNgalu. head here fromWaingapu(12,500Rp;2¾ aday buses Seven and Christiancrosses. and bluedecorated withanimalfigures a gaudymoderngrave painted red, yellow also hassomefinestone-slabtombsand someikat-weaving inaction.Kaliudasee youmay (andbeyond),though off toBali made toorderfortraders andgets shipped its motifs.Much ofhas been thebeststuff rich naturalcolours andthefinelinesof the bestinIndonesiaandisnoted for its fine weaving. Kaliuda ikatisreputedly , isfamedforits lages of NgaluandKaliuda The Mangili district,centred onthevil- Mangili .com; all-inclusivebungalowsUS$35) the twovillages. a few minutes furtheron.Atrailalsolinks forUmabara orleftforPau,right bothjust herecome toahorsestatue; youcanfork head 1.5kmdownasideroaduntilyou The second resortThe second isontheidyllicisle The renowned MrDavid (asheisre- hasjustfourbungalows, superbsurf- Mr David’s SUMBA ••EastSumba (fax 038761333;www.eastsumba Manggudu Island Resort IslandResort Manggudu , t he Kallala re- , Kallala

597

(fax NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA into thepool,butanexceptionis made for Traditionforbidswomento look at itsbase. abovewith eels thefallsandabeautifulpool 100m-high has amajestic wet-season waterfall, the (15,000Rp, fourhours). Tarimbang leave Waingapu inthemorning tions andarepetitive to diet.Daily buses including meals,butexpectbasiccondi- place. Bothcharge 50,000Rpperperson andthekepaladesaHomestay and rusticaccommodationatMarthen’s beach hasterrific surf,somesnorkelling, west of Waingapu,where thegorgeous cove check out some hiking. require a4WDormotorcycleand,often, trucks toPraingkareha, getting aroundmay fromWaingaputoTarimbangbuses and there toaccess.Although aredifficult daily This partof theislandislittleexplored and SUMBA SOUTH-CENTRAL 598 beach ifyouask. Kallala, willdropyouoffatthe but buses towith manybranches runsfromBaing way butisbumpypastMelolo. Adirttrack allthe 11am and1pm.Theroadissealed 7am and8am,thenagainataround four hours), leaving Waingapubetween , 26kmeastof Tarimbang,Praingkareha If you’re lookingforuncrowdedwaves, Four buses a day go to Baing (28,000Rp, adaygotoBaing Four buses and you’re sure toelicit cackles of delightfrom theold ladies. notsomething thatyou’ll wanttoswallow. so getyour gobbingheadon asit’scertainly flavour is very bitter anditsconsistency gritty.Betel nutalsocreates anamazingamount ofsaliva, go. Unlessyou’ve beenmasticating clans, andwouldalways beoffered tovisitors asagesture ofwelcome. the characteristic floodofred saliva inthemouth. the nutorpinangfemale ovaries, andthelime are chewed togetherhave symbolicmeaning. The green stalkofthe and oval-shaped, theseedofgracefulbetel is actually palmtree. levels ofmouthcancerare very highinsocieties thatusethegear. The nutitself,whichislarge buzzandsuppresses orespresso-esque appetite.provides anicotine-like It’salsocarcinogenic– The substance behindthestainisbetel nut,or ally decorate thepavements andbusaisles of thisregion, orthevillagers’foaming,scarletmouths. Travel throughSumbaandTimor andyou can’t avoidtherandomsplodgesofred residue that liber- NUT –THEPEACEKEEPERBETEL &PACEMAKER SUMBA •• South-Central Sumba SUMBA ••South-Central If you do make an effort, you’ll findthatsirih-chewing is agreat waytointeract aneffort, withthelocals,If youdomake If you’re offered betel nut, it’sbestnottorefuse orgive it– justputalittleinyourpocket, ita roleinnegotiationanddiscussion betweendifferentBetel nuttraditionally playedanimportant Chewing betel isastatement upthe‘mix’that thatmake ofadulthood,andthethree parts Tarimbang ,around88kmsouth- Air Terjun Laputi . There’s apond ’s six-room for years, it’s highly likely you’llfinditabsolutelysirih foryears,it’shighly likely vile:its sirih pinang,amildlyintoxicating stimulantthat walk downasteeppathtothefalls. to afork,take theoldroadtoleftand followthemain road mended). Otherwise, will offer toguideyouthere (this is recom- the village. Ifyouwalkviathevalley,locals foreigners. Thefallsare about 3kmfrom informative about forthcoming funerals and cultural events. funeralsandculturalevents. informative aboutforthcoming oftown,butthestaffare helpfuland Sat) Ontheoutskirts Tourist office Tourist Telkom office Post office BRI bank BNI bank There’s nointernet access. Information curred here in1998;see p591 fordetails. inter-tribalplace today,serious riotingoc- villages of western Sumba. forexploringthetraditional a goodbase it’salittlecoolerthantheeastand level, sea but fascinatingplace. Atabout600mabove with satellite dishes,Waikabubakisan odd ministrative bristling buildingsandhouses streeta typicalhigh of concrete stores, ad- ofA juxtaposition and thatched clanhouses % WAIKABUBAK and hasthebestrates. h only accepts Mastercard/Cirrus cards. only acceptsMastercard/Cirrus (kapor) thesperm.It’s limethatcauses anextremely itseems tranquil Though

0387 /pop18,000 8am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) Changesmostmajorcurrencies 8am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) (Bank Rakyat Indonesia; Jl Gajah Mada) ItsATM Mada) Indonesia;JlGajah (BankRakyat (BankNegaraIndonesia;JlAhmadYani; (Jl Sudirman; (Jl ( ( % h 21240; JlTeratai 1; 24hr) sirih represents themale, h 8am-3.30pm Mon-Fri) www.lonelyplanet.com h 8am-3pm Mon- Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com ridge orhilltop positions outside town in- stone tombs are underofficial protection. dance for theentire finalday. Tarung’s fine chickens are andpeople singand sacrificed), spirits (thedaybefore itends,hundreds of ited. Rites consistmainlyof offerings tothe forthedeadisprohib- weeping when even each November. Thisisanaustere period theWulaPodhu, month-long ritual sequence, Jl Manda Elu,isthesceneof animportant to hotels toPraiKlembungandthenuptheridge of town.It’sonlyashort strollfrommost teresting has very impressive tombs,but themostin- 40,000Rp perday. ably get someonetogowithyouforabout find thaninWaingapu,butyoucan prob- guidesare Experienced houses. harder to pung withstone-slab tombsandthatched Within thetownare very traditional TOMBS &TRADITIONALKAMPUNG Sights Waitabula (37km); To Tambulaka Airport (42km); Waikelo(43km) 1 3 2 WAIKABUBAK Other interesting Kampung Tarung, reached byapathoff Tambelar, justoffJlSudirman,Kampung Tarung andWaitabar. ors fie...... D2 Tourist Office...... Telkom...... Post Office...... BRI Bank...... BNI Bank...... INFORMATION kampung are onthewestern edge AC Kampung Waitabar

11 Jl Bhayangkara Jl Kampung Tarung Station

Police Pasar Pisang Jl

Klembung Kampung kampung occupying

Prai Jl Manda Elu Manda Jl 13 5 4 3 2 1 Pantai Wanokaka(17km) B3 B2 B3 B2 To Taramanu(10km); Mosque Waigalli (12km); Praigoli (13km); 12 Jl Ahmad Yani B oa aug...... B2 Local Warungs...... Hotel Manandang...... (see8) Hotel Pelita...... Hotel Manandang...... Hotel Artha...... Hotel Aloha...... EATING SLEEPING 3 4

9 Jl Pemuda Jl Station Police kam- 10

14 8 Malada Jl 1

2 Jl Sudirman Jl Church be invited tochew betel nut. (about 5000Rpto 8000Rp),andyoumay bemo (4000Rp). to Mamboro. bytheoccasional It’sserviced visiting isTambera, 10kmnorthontheroad 30,000/35,000, superior 55,000/70,000Rp) 30,000/35,000, superior Hotel Pelita Hotel Sleeping clean rooms, goodfood andinformation. It options. and some depressing last-resort economy ern, clean,renovated roomswithbathrooms 45,000Rp, with TV 55,000Rp) 45,000Rp, withTV and large stonetombs. are five neatrowsof traditionalhouses hilltop about4kmfromtown,where there Praiijing isespeciallyscenic,perched ona clude (1500Rp). take abemoto theturn-offforPraiijing fully located onadjacenthilltops.Youcan and

Jl Gajah Mada Sports Field It iscustomarytogive acashdonation Hotel Aloha Hotel Another major are alsobeauti- Primkateti Kampung 6 Praiijing andBondomarotto.Kampung

Tambelar Jl El Tari Kampung 10 9 8 7 6 B2 B3 C2 C2

( Tambera (10km) % Veteran Jl To Kampung ( % Transnusa...... (see 6) Merpati Agent...... Bus Terminal...... Rumah MakanFanny...... TRANSPORT SHOPPING lGdi...... B3 Al Gadri...... 7 0 0 21104; JlAhmadYani; economy s/d SUMBA ••Waikabubak 21245; JlSudirman 26;rwithmandi kampung thatisworth Well-run with neat, Kampung Prairami Kampung

Jl Teratai Kampung Pasunga(21km); Kampung Praiijing(4km); Bondomarotto (3km); Offers mod- D Waingapu (137km) 5 300 m To Kampung 0.2 miles 14 13 12 11 599 B2 B3 A2

NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA nection to Waingapu for those inarush. nection to Waingapufor those one toDenpasar. There’s alsotheoddcon- northwest of Waikabubak)toKupang and from Tambulakaweekly airport(42km above ashop.The airlinehastwoflights hidden awayattheback. is andsomeikat.Thegoodstuff carvings 30,000/60,000Rp, withfan&shower60,000/80,000Rp) though pricey,menu. though proper diningroomandanextensive, 600 horn and stone carvings, andjewellery. horn andstonecarvings, eastern Sumba,locallymadebone,wood, Traders gatherathotels withikatcloth from Shopping style fishsoup). in oysterandbakwanikan sauce) (Chinese- grub, includingudangsaos tiram cloths andawinsomemenu of local tasty this cleanlittleeaterytable- hasgingham Justifiably themostpopularplaceintown, mosque. warungs onthemainroadopposite the cheerful basics,there are afew worthwhile The choice isvery limited. Forcheap and Eating and thetown’swedding-cake supplier. airlinesagency astheTransnusa moonlights one to Denpasar. toKupang and Operates flight one weekly The AIR &Away There Getting 25,000Rp; bathroom. but it’soverpriced. Some roomshave shared quality roomsoverlook apeacefulgarden, is anotherfriendlyplacewhere thegood- 135,000Rp, withair-con235,000/285,000Rp; 4; s/d50,000/85,000Rp,withbathroom95,000/ making itagoodchoice. anything fromtransporttoinformation, ally ontheballhere andcanhelpoutwith courtyard garden.Themanagement isre- around a A tranquilspotwithroomsset 55; dishes10,000-20,000Rp; Transnusa Al Gadri Manandang Hotel Fanny Makan Rumah Artha Hotel Departure is6000Rp. tax Manandang Hotel Merpati agent Merpati SUMBA ••WestSumba h (Jl AhmadYani)(Jl breakfast, lunch&dinner) ( % ( % 21245; Hotel Aloha,JlSudirman26) 21112; JlVeteran 11;s/dwithmandi ( ( %

% (Jl Pemuda 4;meals17,000- (Jl h Souvenirs, including 21051; JlAhmadYani 11) ( 21197; fax21292;JlPemuda % breakfast, lunch&dinner) 21389; Jl Bhayangkara 21389; JlBhayangkara Has alarge, a (prawns ) This is mal sacrifices, almost year-round,mal sacrifices, andcer- cycle turnsup rituals, often involving ani- onhorseback. Theagricultural can beseen in thetraditional turban and short sarong filed teeth stillgobare breasted, and men tors. Awayfromthe towns,oldwomenwith large stonetombs of ances- their important of defence intimespast), surrounding the are stillclustered ontheirhilltops (aplace Indonesia. Sumba isoneof themostunblemished in The traditional village culture of western % WEST SUMBA Hotel Manandang. (around 450,000Rpwithadriver), contact expect topay60,000Rpaday.For car rental cycle forexploringwestSumba– youcan Waikabubak istheplacetorent amotor- CAR &MOTORCYCLE quickly. when theytend tofillupanddepartmore it’sbesttogettries. Generally, them early, individualvillage en- see Sumba; fordetails, most othertownsandvillages inwestern service trucksandminibuses Bemos, BUS the cost. where theyare andarrange staying tosplit the daybefore; findoutwhoisgoingand checking listsatMerpati/Transnusa flight or charter abemo(around100,000Rp).Try withtime. Mostpeoplegetfor those a taxi bemo orojekfromthere isthecheapest way it’s notreliable. anda AbustoWaitabula but toconnectwithflights, bus issupposed airport. TheBumiIndah bak, istheclosest Tambulaka, 42kmnorthwest of Waikabu- TO/FROM THEAIRPORT Around Getting there. abula andcatch atruckorbemofrom lages. ToKodidistrict,take abustoWait- andtruckstoothervil- minibuses certain andlessfrequent andlessand Lamboya, frequent bemostoAnakalang,Wanokaka (4000Rp,onehour).ThereWaitabula are four hours) thedayto andthroughout runtoWaingapu(28,000Rp,daily buses The terminal inWaikabubak iscentral.Five BUS 0387 Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com Kampung of high-roofed houses www.lonelyplanet.com Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com and culminating onJuly 26. odd-numbered years), onJuly 10 starting ancestors two years that’sheldevery (in Takadonga a festival honouring the Ratu, TarungLai comesalive forthePurungu and somemarapuditional house houses. also agovernment-built ‘showroom’ tra- tombsscatteredand several around. There’s the surrounding countryside tothecoast for thearea, which hasstunning viewsover to to minute walkacrossthefieldsanduphill out of ahillsideanddragittothesite. workers tookthree years thetomb tochisel that2000 inat70tonnes.Itissaid weighing to about 1pmor2pm);theroadthencontinues here onWednesdayandSaturday until soon passamarket place(markets are held of Pasunga. andyou’ll Crossthehighway east of thetomb. tion. Thevillage alsohasahuge drum 500m book andmayornotaskfor adona- him. He willaskyoutosignthevisitors’ friendly ifyoushare some hasracksofhorns,is house buffalo whose ible fromtheroad.Pasunga’s forthefuneralceremony.sacrificed Itisvis- were 150buffalo took sixmonths tocarve; hips. Thismonumentdates from1926 and chief andhiswife withtheirhandson withimages of a stoneslabcarved a upright The grave of particularinterest consistsof Sumba’s mostimpressive arrays of tombs. Waikabubak, the mainroadtoWaingapu,22kmeastof interesting traditional villages. beside Right has someexceptionalstonemegaliths and The Anakalang districteastof Waikabubak Villages Anakalang a guide. Indonesia–it’spossibletodowithout hasa a village –hopefullyarmedwithsomeBa- some basicmanners asaguestarrivingin western Sumba. Onceyouhave learned to get afriendlyreception. beteltaking nutandcigarettes isagoodway kampung are unaccustomedtoforeigners; marriage cantake placeatanytime. Some likeemonies forevents buildingand house www.lonelyplanet.com , home to Sumba’s heaviest tomb, , hometoSumba’sheaviest tomb, Kabonduk From Kabonduk it isavery 15- pleasant There are more interesting villages south Give yourselfatleastafew daysaround and,five minutes furtheron, Makatakeri Lai Tarung, theoriginalancestral village Kampung Pasunga boastsoneof Kampung

sirih orcigswith kepala desa , with surfers. isolated beachside place inRua popular by theluxuryresort’s men. security waves here have forcedout of been thesea Surfers who have triedtoridethelegendary Iguana ison thatfeaturedcy’s Left inthefilm you’ll findaluxury resort. , 32kmfromWaikabubak,where tai Marosi off southtotheidyllicwhite of sands and Kadenga before there’s anotherturn- thevillages through passes of Kabukarudi modation. Heading westagain,theroad stretch of goodsurfandbasicaccom- sand, a sidetracksouthto some very finebeaches. After 5kmthere’s and headingsouthwest,you’re notfar from fleur-de-lys. in Sumba,withastrikingsymbol like the isolated village of Kajiwa traditionaland tombinthedeeply ern sideof valleyfromWaigalli,theWatu (see p603 ). Justupasideroadonthewest- scene of oneof theMarch Pasola events to ther on,andthenit’s2kmorsodownhill riverside of settlement left turnhere,the through theroadpasses horizon.Afterthe forms thedistant taking Weri junction,fromwhere anazure ocean narrow roadthatsplitsafter 6kmatPedede but trip outof asealed Waikabubak,taking traditional verybak hasstunningsceneryandseveral The Wanokaka districtsouthof Waikabu- South ofWaikabubak Ahong Homestay SLEEPING &EATING highway. toWaingapucandropyou onthe or buses bubak andAnakalang(fewer after 1pm), sign inandpaytotake photos. lives bythetombandwillaskyouto right cockerel motifs.Thegrumpy and a rajah aswellbuffalo and queen, of slabwithcarvings upright is aseparate wide andnearly1mthick.Atitseastern end stoneabout 5mlong,4m gle pieceof carved Kabonduk, theUmbaSawolatombisasin- The world-class surfspot known asOc- Returning tothePedede Werijunction Regular minibuses run between Waika- runbetween Regular minibuses At Waigalli, which hasfinetombsandisthe , 2.5kmdowntheroadfrom Gallubakul kampung. Pantai Nihiwatueastof Marosi. (r inclallmeals 50,000Rp) SUMBA ••WestSumba Praigoli isoneof thebest Rua ,withawonderful It’s avery beautiful Taramanu 4kmfur- kepala desa The Green Basic Pan- 601

NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA NUSA TENGGARA Wednesday) is atKori village; toget here, US$200/300, villasfromUS$840,plus21%tax; ganised. Rates includebreakfast. Rates ganised. ers. Dive tripsandvillage visitscanbeor- The menuisoverseen bytheFrench own- very finecuisine(mealsUS$10 toUS$13). beautiful ocean-facing accommodation and from theshoreline onPantai Marosi with stick around forafew days. much ofwon’t see the region unless you Ifyou’re onfoot you and horn carvings. or buysomefascinating localwood,bone over coral reefs; andtheopportunityto see white-sand beaches, with waves pounding andunusual megalithictombs;long houses tions: villages withincredible high-peaked trict. TheKodiarea offers plentyof attrac- 2km fromthecoast, isthecentre of this dis- and thesmalltownof Bondokodi,about Kodi isthewesternmost region of Sumba, Kodi bubak are avery ride for cyclists. taxing Thehillssouthof islight. Waika- and traffic car ormotorcycle. Mostroadsare sealed thedayfromWaikabubak. throughout leavebeaches. Buses hour every roughly Walakaka, buttheydon’tusuallyrun tothe Padede WatutoKabukarudi, Kadenga and cover thesouthwesttownsandrunthrough districtbuses from Waikabubak. Lamboya runsoutheasttoWaigalli Two dailybuses THERE&AWAYGETTING 602 tax; bungalowsUS$77-99,villasUS$415,plus21% resort.com; mum stay isfivemum stay nights. are offered foradditionalcosts.The mini- biking– diving, horseridingandmountain ties. Plentyof activities–fishing,surfing, and are fullyequippedwithmodernameni- galows andthree villasallfacetheocean air-congroups andafew locals.Seven bun- allowingonlyguests,tour the beach itself, can hotel ownerhasrestricted accessto above idyllicPantai Nihiwatu.TheAmeri- Luxury hotel inextensive grounds,perched access toPantai ers shouldnote thatthere’s nolonger any Simple concrete roomsatWatukarere. Surf- Nihiwatu Resort The region’s biggest By farthebestwaytovisitarea is by Sumba Nautil Homestay Mete Bulu Homestay Mete as SUMBA ••WestSumba ) Very stylishresort back hotel set

( Nihiwatu, 1.5kmaway. % (www.nihiwatu.com; bungalowss/d 038721806; www.sumbanautil (r inclallmeals50,000Rp) (held every (held every market as )

Exploring withaguideisprobably safest.Exploring tricts of theislandare waryof Kodipeople. fromother dis- lawlessness, andSumbanese out forpickpockets inthethrong. dokodi inthemorning,before 8am.Watch be good.Acoupleof runfromBon- buses any vehicle theycanget holdof, soitmust people fromaroundtheregion hangoff possible to stay withthe possible tostay to thefenced kampung of Ratenggaro. Itis stretch of white-sandbeach, untilyoucome along about 3kmalongPantai Radukapal, 3000Rp perperson. Fromtheothersideit’s forabout locals willget youacrossincanoes At lowtideyoucanwadeacross;otherwise, water poolthatrunstothecoastbelowPero. the coastline. ditional uponthefrontporch. Tovisittra- be set may local bone,hornandwoodcarvings animpromptuartshopoffood. Atnight little roomsandabsolutely deliciouslocal run byavery familyandhasneat hospitable Homestay Stori surf breaks justoffshore. Thelong-running hit landuntilAfrica. There’s acoupleof the-earth appeal–westof here youwon’t little place,which hasawonderfullyend-of- metres fromBondokodi.It’sacharming coastlinejustafewon spectacular kilo- Pero village isafriendlycoastal situated Pero its veranda. During the dayonly women and horns hanging from and numerous buffalo there isanelaborate examplewith pigjaws have roofs higher even and andstone statues, the trees, here about 1km inland.Thehouses the roofs of for having 12wives. tide. Thevillage chief here islocally famous ably have towadeacross theriver atlow headland. Toget to mouth unusualstone tombsoccupyasmall the river. Onthenear sideof the river outaboveWainyapu peep thetrees across fringe theshoreline roofs andthehigh of coastline isbreathtaking –coconutpalms allegedly. 20,000Rp justforvisiting–tobuild toilets, fee, andoften visitors are asked forahefty Kodi isaregion withareputation for To reach On the way to Ratenggaro, look out for lookout for On thewaytoRatenggaro, alongthe The viewfromRatenggaro Book accommodationBook online at www.lonelyplanet.com kampung, gonorthorsouthalong , first crossthefresh- Ratenggaro Kampung Paranobaroro through Kampung (per personinclallmeals50,000Rp) Wainyapu, you’llprob- www.lonelyplanet.com kepala desa fora is direction of knowledgeable localguides. maybeabletopointyouinthe and staff nities intheregion. Visitors are welcome, helpingimpoverishedganisation commu- Waikelo andWaikabubak. frequent connectionstoBondokodi/Pero, transport hub with Waikabubak, isauseful Tambulaka between highway airportand marketThis sleepy town,onthemain % Waitabula trucks fromthere toPero. andfrequentto Waitabula bemosand where atrackrunsbacktoPero. ashort walktothebeach,by taking from aggression here, sobypassthevillage itself ofseries tombs.Many peoplehave reported is atrackontheleft:followitfor5km,past left attheT-junction. About 1kmfurther on road.ComingfromPero,sealed it’sasimple north fromBondokodimarket alongthe scene of theKodiPasola in February, head weaving andhappytochat. children are inthevillage –womenare often www.lonelyplanet.com 60,000Rp) Hotel OngkoCimpu Hotel Project Hope–Sumba Project From Waikabubakthere are direct buses To reach Tosi,about6kmnorthandthe other, hurlingtheir inland, theopposing ‘armies’drawnfromcoastalandinland dwellers. The ridersgallop ateach pearance ofthe willbe,fromthenumbersand ap- A prediction isthenmadeastohowgood theyear’sharvest examine theworms atdawn;they’re usually foundontheeighthorninthdayafter afullmoon. called Flores orTimor. to findout theapproximate dates before travelling atravel to Sumba,orcontact agentinBali, Call hotels inWaingapu orWaikabubak UbuOlehka). Gaura area west ofLamboya(Kampung Waigalli)and theremote area (Kampung Sodan);inMarch it’sintheWanokaka area (Kampung certain typeofseawormcalled certain placeinfourareas,son. Ittakes timingdetermined itsexact bythearrivalonnearbycoasts ofa theevents, fewto supervise holdsare barred; bloodisspiltandsometimesdeathsstilloccur. ofIndonesianauthoritiesDespite thebluntspearsthat combatantsnowuseandtheefforts thespiritshappyandbringagoodharvest. forces asaneedforhumanbloodtobe spilttokeep theform ofaritualbattle–notsomuchquarrelruary andMarch,ittakes betweenopposing festivals andbloodiest,harvest inAsia.to beoneofthemostextravagant, HeldannuallyinFeb- A riotoustournamentbetweentwoteams ofspear-wielding, horsemen,thePasola ikat-clad has PASOLA: THEBATTLES LET COMMENCE 0387 Before thePasola canbegin, priestsinfull ceremonial dress mustfirstwadeintotheocean to In February, Pasola iscelebrated intheKodiarea Tosi)andtheLamboya (centred onKampung The Pasola ofaseriestraditionsconnected withthebeginning oftheplantingsea- ispart isawell-kept andfriendlyplace pajura are held,thecombatants’ fistsboundinrazor-sharp localgrasses. nyale. Fighting begins onthebeachand,later thesame day,continuesfurther

holas (spears)atrivalriders (it’snotpermitted touseaspear asalance). (

% ( % 24055; s/dfrom45,000/ 24159) isalocalor- nyale. Twodaysbefore themain events brutalboxing matches airport are 2000Rp. or way toWaingapu.Bemos on ourlastvisit. sumbaresort.com; sUS$45,dUS$60) sumbaresort.com; 20,000/30,000Rp) you walkwestaroundthebay. beach andyoucanfindrelative solitudeif tion withSumbawa. Thetownhasasuperb connec- for westSumbaandhasaweekly town northof isthemainport Waitabula This smallandpredominantly Muslim % Waikelo arranged. dis. Airportpick-upsanddrop-offs canbe where thelarge roomshave attached Tuesday, taking about seven hours. aboutseven Tuesday, taking and returns toSape(32,000Rp)at9am on from SapeforWaikelo onMondayat5pm Waikelo andSape (Sumbawa). Itdeparts abula, andafew continuetoWaikabubak. and bemostravel Waikelo between andWait- Meals costabout48,000Rp. white-sandbeach.lows onaspectacular resort withfinetimber Daily direct make buses therunall Newa SumbaResort The alternative, between There ferry isaweekly service 0387 , waslookingvery run-down SUMBA ••WestSumba Losmen Anggrek ( kampung-style bunga- % 0215229117; www.newa isanupmarket

Regular buses Regular buses ojeks tothe (s/d from man-

603 NUSA TENGGARA TENGGARA NUSA © Lonely Planet Publications 604 www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com 605

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