Vouillamoz Dr José Vouillamoz - Wine & Grapes Consulting - Switzerland @Josegrapes

Home , Ancellotta, Aubin vert, Beaunoir, Bronner (grape), Chasselas, Dameron

24.04.19

Swiss grapes - Europe's hidden gems Wine Grapes DNA proﬁling reveals their origins Jancis Robinson, Julia Harding, José Vouillamoz www.winegrapes.org Dr José Vouillamoz - Wine & Grapes Consulting - Switzerland @JoseGrapes - www.josevouillamoz.com

First ever winner of all 6 major wine book awards 2012-13

References Viticulture in Switzerland

2009 2011 2017 2018

14’748 ha (0.2% world surface area)

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Pre-roman and roman viticulture Grapes possibly cultivated before the Roman era Grape pips from the archaeological site Gamsen/Waldmatte near Brig/Valais (800-500 BC)

3000 BC?

100 – 300 AD 800 BC?

100 – 700 AD

Grapes possibly cultivated before the Roman era Grapes possibly cultivated before the Roman era Pollen diagram in Montorge/Sion/Valais (800-600 BC) « Trottola » jars – celtic clay vessels in tombs (300-200 BC)

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Roman era Dramatic vineyards

nd th Roman pruning knives in Valais (2 - 8 AD) Vaud – Lavaux UNESCO heritage Ticino

High cost of labour

400-1500 hrs/ha Valais [Bordeaux 300] Zurich

Importation, exportation and consumption Viticulture in Switzerland

65% ≈1% importation of the wines produced

35% domestic consumption

> 252 grape varieties (18.5 % world’s grapes)

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168 authorized varieties in the Swiss AOC Grape varieties cultivated in Switzerland (out of 252) Canton AOC Zurich 85 Wine grapes by colour Predominant wine grapes Vaud 66 Bâle-Campagne, Bâle-Ville, Soleure 62 Appenzell RE et RI, Glaris, Saint-Gall et Schaﬀhouse 60 Lac de Bienne 58 Valais 57 Others 27% Pinot noir Argovie 56 White 29% Grisons 52 42% Autres cantons 52 Red Genève 49 58% Merlot 8% Lucerne 48 Fribourg 45 Chasselas Schwytz 31 26% Lac de Thoune 27 Gamay 9% Tessin 24 Neuchâtel 12

Vouillamoz 2017. Cépages Suisses – Histoires et Origines. Ed. Favre, Lausanne. 160 pp

Grape names in Switzerland – a versatile concept Three categories of wine grape varieties Oﬃcial name Swiss name Region Arvine Petite Arvine Valais Indigenous Traditionnal Allogenous Chasselas Fendant Valais (born in Switzerland) (introduced <1900) (introduced >1900) Gros Bourgogne Plantscher Valais Marsanne Ermitage Valais 80 23 150 Moscato Giallo Muscat du Pays Valais Müller-Thurgau Riesling × Sylvaner Switzerland Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains Muscat Valais Pinot Blanc Weissburgunder Eastern Switzerland Pinot Bianco Tessin Heritage Pinot Syrah Pinot Gris Malvoisie Valais Grauburgunder Eastern Switzerland 21 Gamay Viognier Pinot Grigio Ticino Savagnin Blanc Heida, Païen Valais Crossings Sylvaner Nebbiolo Sylvaner Johannisberg Valais Gamay Plant Robert Vaud 16 Muscat Dunkelfelder Cornalin Humagne Rouge Valais Mondeuse Noire Gros Rouge Vaud Hybrids Savagnin Aligoté Pinot Noir Blauburgunder, Clevner Eastern Switzerland Servagnin Vaud 43 etc. etc. Pinot Précoce Frühburgunder Eastern Switzerland Rouge du Pays Cornalin Valais Rouge de Fully Durize Valais Vouillamoz 2017. Cépages Suisses – Histoires et Origines. Ed. Favre, Lausanne. 160 pp

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21 heritage grape varieties in Switzerland Recent crossings @ Agroscope National Research Station

Variety Crossing Year Ha Aim

Charmont Chasselas × Chardonnay 1965 10 ì sugar in Chasselas Räuschling Weiss Doral Chasselas × Chardonnay 1965 35 ì sugar in Chasselas Schwarzer Erlenbacher Gamaret Reichensteiner × Gamay 1970 430 ì Anthocyans, Botrytis resistance

Garanoir Reichensteiner × Gamay 1970 228 ì Anthocyans, Botrytis resistance Hitzkircher Completer Mara Reichensteiner × Gamay 1970 13 ì Anthocyans, Botrytis resistance

Diolinoir Pinot Noir × Robin Noir 1970 125 ì Anthocyans

Chasselas Galotta Ancellotta × Gamay 1981 46 ì Anthocyans 3733 ha Amigne, Arvine, Cornalin, Diolle, Eyholzer Roter, Goron Carminoir Cabernet Sauvignon × Pinot Noir 1982 11 ì Ripeness, Botrytis resistance de Bovernier, Gros Bondola 565.8 ha Divico Gamaret × Bronner 1996 30 ì Resistance to Botrytis, Powdery Bourgogne, Grosse Arvine, Bondoletta 3.8 % Himbertscha, Humagne Blanc, Mildew, Downey Mildew Lafnetscha, Rèze, Total 928 6.3% of the surfaces Rouge de Fully, Rouge du Pays Vouillamoz 2017. Cépages Suisses – Histoires et Origines. Ed. Favre, Lausanne. 160 pp Vouillamoz 2017. Cépages Suisses – Histoires et Origines. Ed. Favre, Lausanne. 160 pp Figure 2. Les 21 cépages patrimoniaux couvrent 29.77 % de la surface viticole de la Suisse. Cependant, si l’on écarte le Chasselas qui est le cépage blanc le plus répandu avec 3838.2 ha, les 20 autres cépages ne couvrent que 565.79 ha, soit 3.82 % de la surface viticole totale du pays. Sur ces 21 cépages, les deux tiers (14) se trouvent en Valais où ils couvrent 10.73 % de la surface du canton. Sources des surfaces : L’Année viticole 2015, Office fédéral de l’agricultureWhat OFAG. is a grape variety? What is a grape variety? NB : Malgré leurs lointaines origines étrangères démontrées, le Cornalin, le Gros Bourgogne, l’Humagne, le RäuschlingHow Weiss, does le Rougea new de grapeFully et le cultivar Rouge du appear?Pays sont inclus parmi les Pinot cépages indigènes, car ils ont (quasiment) disparu de leurs régions d’origine. Müller-Thurgau 3 % Father × Grape seed Mother Merlot 8 % cuttings layering Mutation Mutation Merlot 8 % PlantMüller-Thurgau 3 % Pinot Noir 29 % Gamay 9 % Pinot Gris Pinot Noir Pinot Blanc Vegetative propagation Gamay 9 % Savagnin

Pinot Noir 29 %

Mutation Mutation Chasselas1 2 26 % 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Clones Figure 3. Actuellement, les cinq cépages les plus importants en termes de surfaces en Suisse Savagnin Blanc/ Savagnin Rose/ Savagnin Rose Aromatique/ sont le Pinot (4207.5 ha) originaire de Bourgogne (F), le Chasselas (3838.2 ha) originaire de Traminer Weiss/ Traminer Rot Traminer Aromatico/ l’arc lémanique, le Gamay (1340.8 Grape ha) originaire cultivar de Bourgogne (F), le Merlot (1124.4 ha) Heida Gewürztraminer originaire de la Gironde (F) et le Müller-Thurgau (464.1 ha) originaire d’Allemagne. Ils couvrent 3 Chasselas 26 % à eux seuls les ⁄4 de la surface viticole suisse.

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What is a grape variety? What is a grape variety?

Pinot Noir mutation Pinot Gris mutation Tempranillo mutation Cabernet Sauvignon mutations (with sectorial chimeras) (with sectorial chimeras) (‘malian’ and ‘shalistin’) at Clegett Wines (Australia)

What is a grape variety? Four important grape varieties in Switzerland

GRAPE VARIETY – A clone, or series of related clones, propagated vegetatively from a single parent plant Pinot (monoclonal origin) or several genetically similar parents (polyclonal origin or polyclonal synthesis). Chasselas

Arvine

GRAPE VARIETY – A clone, or series of related clones, Cornalin/Rouge du Pays propagated vegetatively from a single parent plant developed from a single seed

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Pinot 21 natural crossings Pinot × Gouais Blanc

Historical origin First mention in CH NE France 1754 (Servagnin, Técou) in Vaud & Neuchâtel DEUTSCHSCHWEIZ 1848 in Valais Aubin vert Melon AuxerroisKnipperlé THREE LAKES REGION Romorantin Gamay Blanc Gloriod Bachet Noir, Beaunoir Gros Bec Franc Noir de la Haute-Saône François Noir femelle VAUD Mezi, Romaine, Rubi, Sacy Dameron TICINO Aligoté Peurion GENEVA VALAIS Chardonnay Gamay Etymology Surface today in CH Roublot Pine cone 4’300 ha Pignols (Auvergne) THE WINE REGIONS Robinson, Harding, Vouillamoz 2012. Wine Grapes. Allen Lane. 1280 pp.

Dôle AOC Valais Four important grape varieties in Switzerland

min. 85% max. 15%

Pinot Noir > Gamay Pinot Chasselas

Arvine

AOC Cornalin/Rouge du Pays + + grapes

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Chasselas Earliest mentions

Historical origin First mention in CH Leman Lake 1716 in Vaud

DEUTSCHSCHWEIZ Gutedel 1612 THREE LAKES REGION Fendans Fendant Lausannois VAUD 1716 1654 Fendant Chasselas Fendant TICINO 1848 GENEVA Chasselas VALAIS Fendant

Etymology Surface today in CH Village near Mâcon (F) 3734 ha THE WINE REGIONS

Hypotheses on the origin of Chasselas DNA proﬁling and parentage analysis

Fayoumi ≠ Chasselas

Switzerland France 1. Arc lémanique ? ? 4. 2. 3. Cahors Chasselas Constantinople ? Chasselas ? ?

Béclan Dongine Mornen Noir

Vouillamoz 2017. Cépages Suisses – Histoires et Origines. Ed. Favre, Lausanne. 160 pp

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Cradle of Chasselas Four important grape varieties in Switzerland 511 varieties, 18 countires, 11 DNA regions

Genetics History Pinot

Chasselas

Arvine

Cornalin/Rouge du Pays

Lausannois +morphological diversity

Vouillamoz & Arnold 2009. Etude historico-génétique de l’origine du ‘Chasselas’. Revue suisse Vitic. Arboric. Hortic. 41(5):299-307

Arvine Arvine – DNA parentage analysis

Lost parents – orphan variety

Historical origin First mention in CH Valais 1602 in Valais Valais

DEUTSCHSCHWEIZ ? ? … THREE LAKES REGION

Arvine VAUD

TICINO … GENEVA … VALAIS

Etymology Surface today in CH arvena 166 ha ‘advenir’= just arrived Vouillamoz & Moriondo 2011. Origine des cépages valaisans et valdôtains. Ed. THE WINE REGIONS Belvédère, Fleurier. 240 pp.

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Four important grape varieties in Switzerland Rouge du Pays/Cornalin

Pinot Historical origin First mention in CH Aosta Valley 1878 in Valais syn. Rouge Chasselas DEUTSCHSCHWEIZ

Arvine THREE LAKES REGION

Cornalin/Rouge du Pays VAUD

Landroter TICINO GENEVA VALAIS Cornalin

Etymology Surface today in CH Cornelian cherry (Cornus mas) 128 ha, exclusively in VS & THE RedWINE of the land REGIONS

Rouge du Pays/Cornalin Rouge du Pays or Cornalin ? 1313 14e-19e 1838 2011 Neyrun Rouge(s) Rouge du Pays Cornalin Cornalin

1878 ≈1900 1972

Rouge du Pays Rouge du Pays Humagne Rouge = Cornalin

Cornalin Cornalin

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Rouge du Pays/Cornalin Historical background Torrette Valais Val d’Aoste

Petit Mayolet Rouge

Rouge Via Francigena ? du Pays

Hospice in Cornalin Grand-Saint-Bernard 1000 y.o.

Vouillamoz et al. 2003. Microsatellite analysis of ancient alpine grape cultivars: pedigree reconstruction of Vitis vinifera L. ‘Cornalin du Valais’. Theor. Appl. Genet. 107:448-454

Humagne Rouge/Cornalin Be smart, drink Swiss wines ! Swiss wines

Origine historique Première mention rock Aoste 1838 Aoste LIWF! 1900 Valais DEUTSCHSCHWEIZ

THREE LAKES REGION

VAUD

Rouge TICINO GENEVA Humagne VALAIS

Etymologie Surface en CH Hylomaneus = foisonnant Cornalin 135 ha Cornus mas = cornouiller THE WINE REGIONS