Jungle Fever Designers Are Taking a Walk on the Wild Side This Fall
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FONTAINE’S NEW FLAGSHIP/3 DOONEY & BOURKE HEADS EAST/9 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’MONDAY Daily Newspaper • March 31, 2008 • $2.00 Accessories/Innerwear/Legwear Jungle Fever Designers are taking a walk on the wild side this fall. Colored skins, feathers and fur have a striking effect. For more exotic pieces, see pages 6 and 7. Here, from top left: a feather and brass cuff from Subversive Jewelry by Justin Giunta; a 22-karat gold- and platinum- plated metal, emerald and Swarovski crystal bracelet from Pade by Pade Vavra at the Community Service Showroom; Jimmy Choo’s printed pony-hair and brass bag; Leiber’s Austrian crystal minaudière; a gold-plated metal, lizard and citrine cuff from Kara by Kara Ross, and Sang A’s orylag clutch. Darkening Clouds: Retail Outlook Dims as Economy Takes a Bite By Evan Clark proverbial wall is just ahead. the subprime mortgage crisis HOLD ON TIGHT. While retailers have been dancing continues to unravel, confidence J.C. Penney Co. Inc.’s slashing of around the impact of the economic is low and employers across the its first-quarter profit projections slowdown for the last few months, country are cutting payrolls. All by a third after a disappointing evidence is mounting that the this means Penney’s probably Easter could be a warning for second half might not be pretty. won’t be the only retailer to the overall retail sector that the Consumers are pulling back, See Retail, Page 4 PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY SHOSHANNA FISCHHOFF GEORGE CHINSEE; STYLED BY PHOTO BY WWD, MONDAY, MARCH 31, 2008 9 WWD.COM Accessories Report Dooney & Bourke Heads East As Brands Seek Asian Growth By Sophia Chabbott ooney & Bourke is the latest in a wave of American accessories firms sailing into Dthe Asian market. The 33-year-old privately held leather goods fi rm opened its fi rst store outside of the U.S. this month, within the Venetian Macao Resort Hotel in Macau. Dooney & Bourke plans to open from fi ve to 10 stores in Asia over the next three years, focusing on locations in Japan, South Korea, China, Hong Kong, Taiwan and Malaysia. Dooney & Bourke president Peter Dooney anticipates the Macau store will generate a minimum of $1,000 a square foot in sales annually. But the brand also is remaining aggressive about expansion in its home mar- ket, where Dooney & Bourke expects to open up to 50 stores in mall locations across the U.S. in the next few years. The Asian and American stores will average 2,500 square feet. The Norwalk, Conn.-based brand currently has eight boutiques in locales such as New York, Las Vegas, Dallas and Honolulu. The retail push includes a new store concept designed by Manhattan-based Dooney & Bourke’s Macau boutique. Left: A Dooney & Bourke bag. Jeffrey Hutchison & Associates. The brand is also sold in stores such as Bloomingdale’s and As for Dooney & Bourke, the new store concept unveiled in Macau Nordstrom. was inspired by Dooney’s passion for classic wooden sailboats. Dooney “Asia is a key accessories market and one we have yet to capi- commissioned his Connecticut boatbuilder to make a store prototype in talize on,” said Dooney. “We see it as a major growth vehicle for his basement. our brands.” “Peter’s a very creative guy and has a lot of vision,” said Jeffrey Dooney & Bourke is following many of its American competi- Hutchison, whose clients include Barneys New York and Theory. “He tors into the market. Coach, the $2.9 billion American accesso- loves boats, but he didn’t want anything too literal. [The store] has a ries fi rm, entered Asia — with Japan as its fi rst stop — in 1988 modern sculptural quality, as well as a nautical quality. We wanted to and has a booming business there. In fi scal 2007, Coach’s inter- make as much impact as possible.” national sales including Asia were just under $800 million at The store has a wall sculpted out of cherrywood slats, lacquered retail. The brand’s sales in Japan last year were 57.2 billion yen, wood cabinetry with antique brass hardware, travertine marble fl oors or $480 million at current exchange. and a vaulted ceiling. This spring, Coach will open a 9,500-square-foot international fl agship in Hong To boost brand awareness in Asia, Dooney & Bourke has begun advertising in Kong. The store is the company’s second largest in Asia. monthly fashion publications. The company’s ads now feature young actress Hayden Cole Haan, with a volume in the U.S. estimated at $450 million, is also expanding Panettiere, who collaborated in the design of the brand’s “Hayden” bag. Past adver- into the Far East. Cole Haan chief executive offi cer Jim Seuss named Japan, which tising campaigns featured young up-and-coming actresses such as Lindsay Lohan, accounts for 10 percent of sales, as a primary market and China as another coun- Emma Roberts, Michelle Trachtenberg and Mischa Barton. try with growth potential. The brand recently opened in Singapore, Hong Kong and Dooney’s bags run the gamut from colorful printed pochettes for the teen set Macau. Cole Haan has 70 points of distribution in Asia, including in-store boutiques to elegant zebra-print hobos for a more mature consumer. Bestsellers include the and stand-alone stores. The top-selling doors are in Tokyo, Osaka and Hong Kong. Chiara Bag in patent leather, which retails for $345, and the Hayden Bag, which Seuss said there are also opportunities in e-commerce for both Japan and China. sells for $500. Bittar Bringing Bangles Into Bleecker Street Shop By Caroline Tell the same fusion of antique and fashion direction he takes, but he modern that my other store has, Alexis Bittar “in always does basics and favorites, lexis Bittar is putting one more shopping destina- but in a different way.” his Brooklyn so it’s a good combination that hits A tion on New York’s downtown map. Bittar’s Broome Street store studio.” a wide age bracket. I recently sold The Brooklyn-based jewelry designer is opening also juxtaposes the new with the one of his Lucite pins to a 90-year- his second store in late May on Bleecker Street, home old. The walls vary between stark old woman. He is so inventive and to designer boutiques, upscale eateries and specialty Plexiglas and antique wallpaper. A creates a big range for lots of peo- store chains. lion-footed Victorian table domi- ple to enjoy. You’ve got the fashion Bittar unveiled his Broome Street fl agship in March nates the center of the room. girls and the grandmas. It’s amaz- 2004 and plans to open four more stores in the next “I want my customers to feel ing to me.” fi ve years in cities such as Los Angeles, San Francisco something special upon entering Bittar is also at the fore of a and London. He may also add another New York loca- my stores, like they are stepping costume jewelry moment that tion on Manhattan’s Upper East Side. back in time,” Bittar said. is extending from the runway to The new, 350-square-foot space will feature Bittar’s According to sources outside retail. Fashion houses such as signature Lucite bangles in eye-popping col- of the company, his 13-year-old Balenciaga and Lanvin are delving ors and handcrafted pearl and gold vermeil brand has estimated sales of into the category in great numbers pieces that have helped him achieve a cult- about $25 million. Each and with the threat of a recession like status among the costume jewelry set. year Bittar experi- looming, the fashion jewelry mar- Having started out selling his collections ences double-digit ket is still thriving. on the streets of SoHo 20 years ago, Bittar growth and has “I think especially when times has grown into a designer whose jewelry just seen a record get tough, people love this kind of wholesales in 600 stores worldwide, in- 30 percent sales jewelry,” Silberberg said. “With cluding Saks Fifth Avenue, Nordstrom increase from last the metal market so crazy, fi ne and Selfridges. spring into fall. He jewelry is outrageously expensive Like its other location, Bittar’s new often collaborates with and it’s going to defi nitely impact store fuses antique touches and modern ready-to-wear design- retailers this coming winter. So I objects. Victorian wallpaper mixes with ers, having done Michael Kors’ bold neck- sense that those in the midrange — if they can cap- industrial pieces that showcase the jew- laces, rings and bangles for the design- ture that and can have a customer for that — will do elry, as well as works of art. Cherry blos- er’s spring show, as well as the bright, well. People are looking to not break the bank and soms adorn one wall — the inspiration beaded pieces for Bryan Bradley’s still look good. And the runway backing is going to for which was taken from a scene from Tuleh spring collection. make a big difference.” the 1959 film “North by Northwest.” “I enjoy straddling the bridge be- Bittar doesn’t seem to mind the increasing com- With a dark gray rug sweeping the fl oor tween costume jewelry and high fash- petition in the marketplace. He managed to bring his and oak veneer cases lining the walls, Alexis Bittar’s ion,” Bittar said. “I think it’s all about eccentric, colorful brand into the fray during a time the store will evoke a homey feeling as signature Lucite jewelry.