Grunge Is Back at Least at Marc Jacobs, Although He’Ll Tell You It Never Left
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BEBE SIGNS MISCHA BARTON/4 DARIA’S TAKE ON BEAUTY/16 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • WEDNESDAYThe Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • February 8, 2006 • $2.00 Sportswear Grunge Is Back At least at Marc Jacobs, although he’ll tell you it never left. “It’s always there, that feeling,” the designer said on Tuesday. “I’ve always preferred alternative beauty if you can even call it ‘alternative’ at this point.” Still, the stellar lineup Jacobs showed on Monday night harked back more specifi cally to his infamous Perry Ellis grunge episode than just about anything he’s done since. And the redux looked intriguing and fresh. Here, a cornerstone of the collection: endless layering. For more on the shows, see pages 6 to 11. Polo’s Cost of Growth: Short-Term Blip Ahead, But Outlook Still Bullish By Vicki M. Young NEW YORK — Polo Ralph Lauren kept a brisk gallop in the third quarter, but warned its pace may slow slightly for the fiscal year. The company posted third-quarter profits that leapt 20.9 percent — bolstered by strong sales of its luxury goods. For the full year, though, Polo Ralph Lauren scaled back its profit outlook as it expects to take charges relating to the reacquisition of Polo Jeans as well as store closures. Investors retreated on the news, and the stock closed Tuesday down 5.7 percent to $54.17. Still, the firm remains optimistic in See Polo, Page 28 PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTO BY 2 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2006 WWD.COM WWDWEDNESDAY Miu Miu Makes Move to Paris Show Sportswear ter Milan Fashion Week, from By Miles Socha Miuccia Blugirl and Just Cavalli to NEW YORK COLLECTIONS Prada Grunge is reborn, and who better to claim parentage than Marc Jacobs? PARIS — Signaling a stra- Moschino Cheap & Chic. tegic push for her more af- It is understood Miuccia 6 He led the pack as the season continued. fordable and experimental Prada is keen to leverage Miu ready-to-wear line, Miuccia Miu’s distinct identity — even GENERAL Prada will show her Miu allowing it to compete for glory Polo Ralph Lauren Corp. kept a brisk gallop in the third quarter, but Miu collection March 5 dur- with her main collection, which 1 warned its pace may slow slightly for the fi scal year. ing Paris Fashion Week in- she presents in Milan Feb. 21. stead of in Milan. During men’s fashion week in Signaling a push for her more affordable and experimental line, Miuccia This confirms a WWD Milan last month, the Miu Miu 2 Prada will show Miu Miu March 5 in Paris instead of in Milan. report of Jan. 12. A Prada collection garnered more ecstatic Liz Claiborne Inc. is streamlining operations and will eliminate 500 posi- spokesman said Tuesday the praise than the main Prada line. tions, or 4 percent of its workforce, to better manage its brand portfolio. fi rm is fi nalizing a location Launched in 1992 and 2 for the runway show, but named after its creator’s nick- Mischa Barton is to be announced today as the new face of Bebe, declined further comment. name, Miu Miu was initially 4 rounding out Manny Mashouf’s dream team to boost the label’s profi le. Miu Miu’s Paris show is ten- billed as affordable “antifash- EYE: If a designer’s cool quotient is measured by the number of hipsters tatively scheduled at 3 p.m. ion fashion” and is synony- clamoring to get into the after party, then Marc Jacobs is still at the top. on a day that also boasts mous with funky footwear and 14 shows by Valentino, Lanvin sophisticated, youthful clothes Nave is embarking on a retail expansion with the opening on Saturday of and Louis Vuitton. with retro airs. It has often as- 16 its fi rst freestanding boutique at 159 Mercer Street in Manhattan. That one of Italy’s most sociated itself with emerging MARKETING: The 50-and-older crowd generates $26 billion in annual infl uential designers is de- artists, actors and musicians, apparel purchases, but it’s challenging for brands to grab their share. camping to the French capi- populating its ad campaigns 19 tal underscores its reputation with the likes of Chloë Sevigny Performance apparel and licensed products lifted Under Armour to as the premier global show- and Ludivine Sagnier. But in 29 double-digit earnings and sales gains in its fi rst quarter as a public fi rm. case for creative fashions, recent seasons, Miu Miu has home as it is to major designers from France, carved out a higher positioning in its pricing, Classifi ed Advertisements.............................................................30-35 England, Japan, Belgium, Holland and beyond. styling and product assortments. To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. Valentino and Costume National are among The label has a history of globe-trotting and [email protected], using the individual’s name. Italian brands that already show in Paris. moved its show to the U.S. for three seasons The move also comes as when Prada Group starting in 1994. Miu Miu showed once in London WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. is putting major muscle behind Miu Miu, whose in 1997 before returning again to Milan. VOLUME 191, NO. 29. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ad- spring advertising campaign features actresses Miu Miu has 27 directly operated stores, plus ditional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three ad- Kim Basinger and Camilla Belle. four franchises, and is believed to generate rev- ditional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers The shift to Paris also will help distance Miu enues in excess of 110 million euros, or about Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and Miu from the fl urry of second lines that clut- $131.7 million at current exchange rates. C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS Liz Claiborne to Cut 500 Jobs CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. 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