BEBE SIGNS MISCHA BARTON/4 DARIA’S TAKE ON BEAUTY/16 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • WEDNESDAYThe Retailers’ Daily Newspaper • February 8, 2006 • $2.00 Sportswear Grunge Is Back At least at , although he’ll tell you it never left. “It’s always there, that feeling,” the designer said on Tuesday. “I’ve always preferred alternative beauty if you can even call it ‘alternative’ at this point.” Still, the stellar lineup Jacobs showed on Monday night harked back more specifi cally to his infamous Perry Ellis grunge episode than just about anything he’s done since. And the redux looked intriguing and fresh. Here, a cornerstone of the collection: endless layering. For more on the shows, see pages 6 to 11.

Polo’s Cost of Growth: Short-Term Blip Ahead, But Outlook Still Bullish

By Vicki M. Young NEW YORK — Polo Ralph Lauren kept a brisk gallop in the third quarter, but warned its pace may slow slightly for the fiscal year. The company posted third-quarter profits that leapt 20.9 percent — bolstered by strong sales of its . For the full year, though, Polo Ralph Lauren scaled back its profit outlook as it expects to take charges relating to the reacquisition of Polo Jeans as well as store closures. Investors retreated on the news, and the stock closed Tuesday down 5.7 percent to $54.17. Still, the firm remains optimistic in See Polo, Page 28 PHOTO BY GEORGE CHINSEE PHOTO BY 2 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2006 WWD.COM WWDWEDNESDAY Miu Miu Makes Move to Paris Show Sportswear

ter Milan Fashion Week, from By Miles Socha Miuccia Blugirl and Just Cavalli to NEW YORK COLLECTIONS Grunge is reborn, and who better to claim parentage than Marc Jacobs? PARIS — Signaling a stra- Moschino Cheap & Chic. tegic push for her more af- It is understood Miuccia 6 He led the pack as the season continued. fordable and experimental Prada is keen to leverage Miu ready-to-wear line, Miuccia Miu’s distinct identity — even GENERAL Prada will show her Miu allowing it to compete for glory Polo Ralph Lauren Corp. kept a brisk gallop in the third quarter, but Miu collection March 5 dur- with her main collection, which 1 warned its pace may slow slightly for the fi scal year. ing Paris Fashion Week in- she presents in Milan Feb. 21. stead of in Milan. During men’s fashion week in Signaling a push for her more affordable and experimental line, Miuccia This confirms a WWD Milan last month, the Miu Miu 2 Prada will show Miu Miu March 5 in Paris instead of in Milan. report of Jan. 12. A Prada collection garnered more ecstatic Liz Claiborne Inc. is streamlining operations and will eliminate 500 posi- spokesman said Tuesday the praise than the main Prada line. tions, or 4 percent of its workforce, to better manage its brand portfolio. fi rm is fi nalizing a location Launched in 1992 and 2 for the runway show, but named after its creator’s nick- Mischa Barton is to be announced today as the new face of Bebe, declined further comment. name, Miu Miu was initially 4 rounding out Manny Mashouf’s dream team to boost the label’s profi le. Miu Miu’s Paris show is ten- billed as affordable “antifash- EYE: If a designer’s cool quotient is measured by the number of hipsters tatively scheduled at 3 p.m. ion fashion” and is synony- clamoring to get into the after party, then Marc Jacobs is still at the top. on a day that also boasts mous with funky footwear and 14 shows by Valentino, Lanvin sophisticated, youthful clothes Nave is embarking on a retail expansion with the opening on Saturday of and . with retro airs. It has often as- 16 its fi rst freestanding boutique at 159 Mercer Street in . That one of Italy’s most sociated itself with emerging MARKETING: The 50-and-older crowd generates $26 billion in annual infl uential designers is de- artists, actors and musicians, apparel purchases, but it’s challenging for brands to grab their share. camping to the French capi- populating its ad campaigns 19 tal underscores its reputation with the likes of Chloë Sevigny Performance apparel and licensed products lifted Under Armour to as the premier global show- and Ludivine Sagnier. But in 29 double-digit earnings and sales gains in its fi rst quarter as a public fi rm. case for creative fashions, recent seasons, Miu Miu has home as it is to major designers from France, carved out a higher positioning in its pricing, Classifi ed Advertisements...... 30-35 England, Japan, Belgium, Holland and beyond. styling and product assortments. To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. Valentino and Costume National are among The label has a history of globe-trotting and [email protected], using the individual’s name. Italian brands that already show in Paris. moved its show to the U.S. for three seasons The move also comes as when Prada Group starting in 1994. Miu Miu showed once in WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. COPY- RIGHT ©2006 FAIRCHILD PUBLICATIONS, INC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. is putting major muscle behind Miu Miu, whose in 1997 before returning again to Milan. VOLUME 191, NO. 29. WWD (ISSN # 0149-5380) is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one ad- spring campaign features actresses Miu Miu has 27 directly operated stores, plus ditional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three ad- Kim Basinger and Camilla Belle. four franchises, and is believed to generate rev- ditional issues in February, April, September and October by Fairchild Publications, Inc., a subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Publishers The shift to Paris also will help distance Miu enues in excess of 110 million euros, or about Inc.: S.I. Newhouse Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President & C.E.O.; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President and Miu from the fl urry of second lines that clut- $131.7 million at current exchange rates. C.O.O.; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President_Human Resources; John Buese, Executive Vice President_Chief Information Officer; David Orlin, Senior Vice President_Strategic Sourcing; Robert Bennis, Senior Vice President_Real Estate; Maurie Perl, Senior Vice President_Chief Communications Officer. Shared Services provided by Advance Magazine Group: Steven T. Florio, Advance Magazine Group Vice Chairman; David B. Chemidlin, Senior Vice President_General Manager, Shared Services Center. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post Publications Mail Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 88654-9096-RM0001. Canada post return undeliverable Canadian addresses to: DPGM, 7496 Bath Road, Unit 2, Mississauga, ON L4T 1L2. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS Liz Claiborne to Cut 500 Jobs CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WOMEN’S WEAR By Julee Greenberg brands and operations will be store support for high-potential DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008; Call 800-289-0273; or visit www.subnow.com/wd . Four grouped according to consumer growth brands, including Juicy weeks is required for change of address. Please give both new and old address as printed on most recent label. Subscriptions Rates: U.S. possessions, Retailer, daily one year: $109; Manufacturer, daily one year $145. All other NEW YORK — Liz Claiborne Inc. offerings and channels, rather Couture, Lucky Brand and Sigrid U.S., daily one year $205. Canada/Mexico, daily one year, $295. All other foreign (Air Speed), daily one year $595. has streamlined its operations than by brand, as the company Olsen, as well as targeted brands First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and, as a result, will eliminate is currently run. Brands will such as Liz Claiborne. The compa- and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions 500 positions within the com- have their own key brand-spe- ny expects to take charges related and reprint requests, please call 212-221-9595 or fax requests to 212-221-9195. Visit us online: www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make pany and reevaluate about 20 cifi c functions, such as design, to this initiative totaling approxi- our subscriber list available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would retail locations. merchandising and marketing, mately $60 million, the major- interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information by mail and/or e-mail, please advise Paul Charron, chairman and while benefiting from shared ity of which will occur in the fi rst us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR LOSS, DAMAGE, OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO UNSOLICITED MANU- chief executive offi cer of the $4.6 functions within each grouping, half of this year. Approximately SCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPAR- billion fi rm, said the moves will such as planning, sales, sourcing $6 million of those charges are ENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, help the company to be more ef- and consumer research. expected to be noncash. OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED fi cient in managing its current “We live in a world that is As part of the realignment, portfolio and allow for more constantly changing, so deci- Pamela Thomas-Graham, group growth opportunities. sions that were made in the past president, has responsibility for The reduction of 500 employ- are not necessarily ensuring our overseeing apparel for the bet- In Brief ees, or 4 percent of Claiborne’s future,” Charron explained. “I ter and moderate department global workforce, will come from realized that we are not as re- stores, including brands such ● URBAN’S BILLION: Urban Outfi tters Inc. said Tuesday that it the more senior levels of the or- sponsive as we can be, so these as Liz Claiborne, Sigrid Olsen, surpassed the $1 billion mark in total sales for the year ended ganization. The company also in- changes are a necessity in order Emma James, JH Collectibles Jan. 31. In a preliminary sales report, the retailer’s total sales tends to streamline select distri- for us to align the business with and the recently acquired Mac for the fourth quarter jumped 27 percent to $319 million from bution facilities and offi ce space our customers’ needs.” & Jac, Kenzie and Kenziegirl $252 million in the prior period, while sales for the year soared as well as close or repurpose ap- Charron said that, with the brands, among others. 32 percent to $1.1 billion from $828 million in the prior year. proximately 20 retail locations. changing retail environment, the Susan Kellogg, group presi- Urban said total comparable-store sales for the quarter showed “It’s never an easy thing to company must free up dollars in dent, is overseeing apparel for an 8 percent gain. Comps at Urban Outfi tters, Free People and let people go; allowing people order to invest in the brands in the bridge and contemporary Anthropologie showed gains of 13, 21 and 2 percent, respec- to leave you who have worked the portfolio and allow for more lines, including Juicy Couture, tively. “We are very pleased to report another record-breaking very hard for this company is acquisitions. The Claiborne Ellen Tracy, Dana Buchman, quarter, which pushed sales for the year above the billion-dol- extremely diffi cult and painful,” portfolio now holds 45 brands. Laundry by Shelli Segal and the lar mark for the fi rst time,’’ said Richard A. Hayne, chairman Charron said. “But we will do The company expects the re- recently acquired Prana. and president. “In addition, response to our spring offerings is everything we possibly can to alignment to yield annual gross Susan Davidson, group presi- strong across all three brands, with the Free People businesses ease their transition. We will do cost savings of $60 million to $65 dent, has responsibility for over- leading the gains.’’ the right thing.” million starting in 2007, with $30 seeing apparel for Lucky Brand, Charron said most of the peo- million to $35 million of cost sav- DKNY Jeans and DKNY Active ● NEIMARK’S NEW GIG: Ira Neimark, best known for his ple will be told of their termina- ings anticipated this year. These and C&C California, in addition stewardship of Bergdorf Goodman from 1975 to 1992 as chair- tion within the next two weeks. cost savings are before increased to all brand offerings in accesso- man and chief executive offi cer, has joined Seiden Krieger As a result of the initiative, investment in marketing and in- ries and cosmetics. Associates, an executive search fi rm, as a retail adviser. He will Karen Murray, group presi- help Seiden Krieger identify and evaluate prospective candi- dent, is overseeing apparel for dates for the fi rm’s clients in retailing, fashion, apparel and Claiborne (men’s) and Enyce, as textiles. Neimark is also a director at Hermès and the Fashion well as for men’s and women’s Institute of Technology Foundation. He formerly served as an midtier brands for Kohl’s, Sears adviser to Mitsukoshi in Tokyo and was an adjunct professor of and J.C. Penney. She also will retail marketing at Columbia Business School, as well. oversee all of the company’s international businesses in the Western Hemisphere and its li- censing business. Each group president reports Clarifi cation to Trudy Sullivan, president of the company. Jason Ferro, mentioned in the “Jeanealogy” story on page 6, Feb. The fi rm is conducting a search 2, is a current, not former, designer at Guess. He is also a mem- for an executive to oversee its di- ber of Los Angeles Denim Atelier’s design team. rect-to-consumer operations.

4 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2006 WWD.COM Bebe Taps Barton, Aims for Red Carpet

By Rose Apodaca Phillips have been secretly at Manny Mashouf, work coming up with red-car- LOS ANGELES — Mischa Barton is to be announced today as the new face of sexy David Cardona and pet-worthy gowns and looks contemporary brand Bebe, rounding out company founder Manny Mashouf ’s dream Arianne Phillips. befitting a runway’s excite- team assembled to boost the label’s profi le on the red carpet and the runway. ment, along with handbags, Steven Klein has signed to photograph the yearlong campaign featuring the 19- the widest of belts and the year-old star of the Fox Television hit “The O.C.” Barton and Klein arrive as Mashouf highest of heels. has enlisted designers David Cardona and Arianne Phillips to create a capsule col- For direction, they tapped lection more directional than the publicly traded brand’s current offerings, which are the sophisticated sexiness expected to bring in close to $600 million for fi scal year 2006. defined by Thierry Mugler, Barton is “smart, she has a lot of class and she’s very much in charge of her life,” Azzedine Alaïa and YSL Rive Mashouf said on Tuesday. “She’s beautiful, too. She personifi es the Bebe woman.” Gauche. A few preliminary In addition to print and bill- samples, fabric swatches and board ads, the one-year contract Mischa Barton Cardona-penciled sketches provides for a TV commercial slat- reveal a pumped-up rendi- ed for fall and for Barton to appear tion of the chic, hot Bebe girl at three red-carpet events wearing in regal purples, oxblood red Bebe. Terms of the Barton deal and silver grays. were not disclosed. They also show Cardona’s Cardona is the Richard Tyler- signature hand: oversized fur trained designer who had stints at collars on waist-length jackets; Cerruti and Development, along multiple panels and seams on with his own signature collection. sexy, tailored separates, and Phillips was nominated last week restraining strap details. for an Academy Award in costume “Manny told us not to design for “Walk the Line” and is be overly concerned with known for her editorial work and as whether it is commercial. the longtime stylist for Madonna. Like the tulip skirt,” Cardona Mashouf ’s mandate to them: No said, pointing to a sketch. “It limits, no need to consider the av- doesn’t work on all bodies. erage consumer, he said, adding: But on a supergiant [model] “It’s not based on retailability. or starlet, it will.” “This has been a dream of mine That said, Mashouf revealed for many, many years,” Mashouf some of the more directional said of his wish for the company he looks might pop up in a hand- founded in San Francisco in 1976. ful of Bebe’s 228 doors, includ- “I’ve wanted to do a collection that ing the Rodeo Drive fl agship, wasn’t infl uenced by the runways which opened last November. or the design gods. Its purpose is There, celebrities can be fi tted to show the world that Bebe is a in a gown or other look from brand that can match its talent and the special collection. PHOTO BY TYLER BOYE PHOTO BY creativity along the same level as As the new Bebe face, the big designers.” Barton will appear in ads featuring both the main line and the new collection. Bebe will drop the curtain on its Klein joins a prestigious line of photographers who have shot Bebe’s campaigns, new line March 22 at a location near including Matthew Rolston and Ellen von Unwerth. Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Los Phillips, who has collaborated with Klein, said the lensman “was the fi rst person Angeles at Smashbox Studios. In ad- I thought of because both personality- and sensibility-wise, Steven and Manny could dition to her collaborative part with be great together. Manny’s not afraid. He has this wonderful mix of practicality be- Cardona, Phillips is styling the pre- cause he understands his customers. But also he has this visionary bravery to take sentation of about 40 to 45 looks. his customer somewhere.” “It’s a very unique situation,” Bebe is no stranger to Hollywood. Its micromini suits defi ned Heather Locklear’s Phillips said. “We are creating character on “Melrose Place’’ and Calista Flockhart’s on “Ally McBeal.” Most re- something that will inspire and cently, Eva Longoria has appeared in Bebe’s saucy separates on “Desperate elevate the brand. We only have to Housewives.” make one of everything. We don’t And then-models Charlize Theron and Jamie King posed in campaigns before have to worry about production. their acting careers took off, while Rose McGowan appeared in ads in the late That’s amazing. It’s an adjustment Nineties. for David. But for me, it’s like work- The announcements come as Bebe Stores Inc. reported earnings of $25 million ing on a movie.” for the three months ending Dec. 31, up from $24.3 million in the year-ago period. The pace is even faster. Since Bebe Stores Inc. splits its 303 corporate employees between here and its origi- arriving at Bebe’s 50,000-square- nal headquarters in Brisbane, outside of San Francisco. More than 90 percent of foot design studios in Century Bebe merchandise is designed in-house. The company plans to open 35 stores in City, Calif., on Jan. 3, Cardona and fi scal 2006.

FORD’S ENTOURAGE: If there’s ever a Tom to a Condé Nast executive, the Ford cover got better scores. Ford biopic, Jeremy Piven might want to Editor in chief Graydon Carter said of this year’s racy take on the annual Hollywood audition for the lead. package, “[It] isn’t even on newsstands yet, and we’ve been getting calls all day, both MEMO PAD During a recent cover test of Vanity here and in our L.A. offi ces, from people asking when it goes on sale. So the response Fair’s March Hollywood issue, which already has been overwhelming.” Carter said Tuesday was the biggest day in vanityfair. shows guest editor Ford posing with Keira Knightley and Scarlett Johansson, at least one com’s history, with 700,000 hits to see the cover and B-roll from the shoot, and about respondent mistook Ford for the “Entourage” star. The person wrote, “I don’t know who 1,000 new subscribers signing up. that guy on the cover is. He looks like Jeremy Piven.” (In fact, Piven has his own March Having actresses pose nude isn’t just a way to boost sales — it also saves labor. cover — Cargo — for which he clearly stole Ford’s signature look.) Consider the magazine’s experience with Dakota Fanning. While photographing a 12-year- Vanity Fair tested covers with Ford and with just the two naked women but, according old in the altogether was obviously out of the question, it would have been a good deal easier than putting her in couture, as Ford chose to do. His intention, according to a Vanity Fair spokeswoman, was to depict Fanning in a style commensurate with her very grown-up curriculum vitae. But the dress he selected had to be taken apart and reconstructed to fi t Fanning, who, according to Ford, “is graced with the face of Michelle Pfeiffer, Jodie Foster and Uma Thurman combined” — but not, lucky for her, Jeremy Piven. — Sara James and Jeff Bercovici

TRAVELING TRUMAN: James Truman has hardly made a public peep since signing on as chief executive offi cer and managing editor of LTB Holding, owner of Art + Auction magazine, last October. But the former Condé Nast editorial director recently exited stealth mode just long enough to make his fi rst big hire: Michael Boodro, features editor of Elle Decor and a former consulting editor for Magazine. According to sources, Boodro will be editor of a new art-and-travel title, one of several publications Truman is developing for LTB. Asked about the launch, Truman, who is based in London, said he planned to make an announcement Monday, but declined further comment. Elle Decor editor in chief Margaret Russell confi rmed Boodro will be leaving after the next issue closes, and said she is already considering candidates to Dakota Fanning, photographed by Annie Leibovitz for Vanity Fair, and the Cargo and Vanity Fair covers. replace him. — J.B. IAN SCHRAGER

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SPONSOR: 40 BOND STREET PARTNERS LLC, C/O IAN SCHRAGER COMPANY, 818 GREENWICH STREET, NEW YORK, NY 10014. THE COMPLETE OFFERING TERMS ARE IN AN OFFERING PLAN AVAILABLE FROM SPONSOR FILE NO. CD-05-0170. WE ARE PLEDGED TO THE LETTER AND SPIRIT OF U.S. POLICY FOR THE ACHIEVEMENT OF EQUAL HOUSING OPPORTUNITY THROUGHOUT THE NATION. WE ENCOURAGE AND SUPPORT AN AFFIR- MATIVE ADVERTISING AND MARKETING PROGRAM IN WHICH THERE ARE NO BARRIERS TO OBTAINING HOUSING BECAUSE OF RACE, COLOR, RELIGION, SEX, HANDICAP, FAMILIAL STATUS OR NATIONAL ORIGIN. 6 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2006 The New Grunge Marc Jacobs: “I’m furious,” Marc Jacobs said the night before his show, grousing again about the early calendar. “And I don’t know who to be mad at.” Jacobs might as well have been talking about the collection he would show on Monday, as it, too, was furious — a furious explosion of ebullient fashion delivered in a blatant treatise on latter-day grunge. One could argue that with the world in turmoil, the timing is perfect for such a display, but runway politicking has never been Jacobs’ forte. Nevertheless, the moment Karen Elson emerged to open the show, her pregnancy barely apparent under a girlish mossy green smock, the mood just felt right, the ladylike fl uff elsewhere turning anemic in comparison. The muse here was a fl esh-and-blood relative of last fall’s Violet Incredible, a girl ready to direct her pent-up angst at no one in particular. Yet — and this is where Jacobs has always diverged from genuinely angry designers — the edge is never truly aggressive. Even at their least frilly, Jacobs’ collections always have a glimmer of optimism; he doesn’t do hard. To him, the moody palette and endless layers were about the realities of dressing for cold weather in a modern, casual way, and for all the dissonance of multiple textures and patterns, in the end, cozy trumped combative. Still, there’s no question that since the huge success of his girly tweeds awhile back, Jacobs has focused on de-prettying his lineup. He showed against a stunning skyline set, conceived and constructed in under a week by Stefan Beckman, to the mesmerizing serenity of Philip Glass music. His girls wore piles of stuff, from their overgrown sequined berets and fur hats down to those demonized, late-arriving shoes; in fact, this collection had as much going on from the knees down as some others do head-to-toe. And it featured more references than Funk & Wagnalls: “It’s all the designers I love, the people I know, all tossed together,” Jacobs said. For starters, read Rei Kawakubo, Yves Saint Laurent, and the great sportswear pioneers of Seventh Avenue, along with Sofi a, Winona and Rachael. There were jackets over sweaters over dresses over pants over thick legwarmers over lacy leggings and on and on, each look revealing surprises upon discretion. For example, along with the delicate dishevelment of fi lmy black gowns, Jacobs also cut evening columns from murky wool plaid. Coats came half fur and half wool; tony knits trailed extravagant appendages; tunics and skirts took shape from seemingly random knots. And there were bags, bags, bags, because emergency skylines don’t come cheap. Once again, this collection triggered wildly differing opinions, as some in the audience found all the stuff too much. But sometimes too much is wonderful, especially when the individual pieces are so exquisite. Still, one vocal critic saw room for improvement. “I’m still mad,” Jacobs said back at the Armory on Tuesday before his Marc by Marc Jacobs show. “With more time, it could have been better.” PHOTOS BY GEORGE CHINSEE AND STEVE EICHNER PHOTOS BY WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2006 7 WWD.COM 8 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2006 Sophisticated Ladies From fl owing dresses to elegant wrap numbers, fall collections were characterized by a light-handed glamour, as designers favored young, fresh looks.

Bill Blass

Bill Blass

Bill Blass Behnaz Sarafpour

Bill Blass: Morning, noon and night. That’s when but this season Vollbracht seems more comfortable in the Bill Blass customer relies on the label, and upholding the Blass tradition. designer Michael Vollbracht is well aware of this. With fall, he showed just how far the collection Monique Lhuillier: Monique Lhuillier is, fi rst and foremost, has evolved since he took over — despite some committed to making her lady look lovely. And she earlier bumpy turns along the way. These succeeded for fall with gracefully cut jackets, cocktail were real clothes, a lot of them very pretty dresses, dramatic evening gowns and chic coats. Her and exactly what his lady wants. She moves bordeaux tweed swingy overcoat with embroidered collar through her day in polished suits — here, a fi ne and pockets was a standout along with some of the lightest, camel cashmere version — and luxe outerwear, prettiest little shrugs in town. The shrugs came out in tulle, often embroidered and sometimes with a touch taffeta or fur, worn over balloon cocktail dresses or trumpet of fur trim. Evening allowed Vollbracht to turn ballgowns. And all of those gray Chantillly lace looks had up the drama a notch with sparkly bits and frothy a light-handed glamour, such as the sheath with its fl aring pieces. The fl owing red chiffon siren dress certainly hemline and the gown with a layered tulle skirt. But given grabbed attention with its plunging neckline, but so did the allure of those airy lace and taffeta looks, one wonders the charming beaded gray cocktail number topped with a why Lhuillier weighed down the collection with so many of shearling coat. There may have been no major fi reworks, those wallpaper and upholstery fabrics. WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2006 9 WWD.COM

Luca Luca Monique Lhuillier

Monique Lhuillier

Behnaz Sarafpour

Luca Luca

Monique Lhuillier

Behnaz Sarafpour: “I wanted to do a collection inspired and then glamorous with jeweled necklines. After all, it’s by traditional American sportswear, which is really based a girl’s prerogative to change her mind. in men’s wear,” Behnaz Sarafpour said post-show. But as ambitious and successful a young woman as Sarafpour is, Luca Luca: Tigers and butterfl ies and bees, oh my. Color she’d never don a man’s suit to prove it. In fact, she seems Luca Orlandi a bit dazed and confused, because his vision to draw power from her unapologetic girlishness. Through at Luca Luca lacked the focus he showed in the past. It that archfemininity, the designer fi ltered all manner of seemed the designer didn’t know which way he wanted to stuffy sartorial conventions — the trenchcoat, banker gray go — girly, with the bouncy butterfl y-embroidered frock, fl annel, the bow tie — and out came a delightful set of or sexy, à la the gold-and-black-striped taffeta dress and clothes that felt young and fresh. The trench morphed into sequined leopard-print skirt, or cashmere casual, as in a an elegant black wrap dress, while the gray fl annel turned simple long-sleeved polo. It all felt out of sorts alongside into a swingy, pleated kilt or a high-necked coat, both the tamer and more languid trappings sent down the judiciously appliquéd with black lace. Masculine tartans runway. Still, Orlandi continued to mine the ladylike ease became much less so in silk, cut into a bow-blouse or the he’s toyed with before, showing enough to satisfy Luca cap-sleeved top of a slim dress. Evening, a Sarafpour Luca’s social set. Cases in point: the gala-bound silk lamé mainstay, went two ways — low-key in black-and-white gowns and effortless wardrobe basics, including wool knit

dresses that continued a thread from her resort collection, skirts, sleek crepe pantsuits and rich astrakhan coats. GIANNONI GEORGE CHINSEE AND GIOVANNI JOHN AQUINO, PHOTOS BY 10 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2006 The Cool School Whether sexy or spiffy, simple or serene, certain designers showed looks that have a distinctive brand of charisma.

Betsey Max Azria Collection Max Azria Collection Johnson

Tse

Betsey Johnson: Perhaps impending grandmother-hood and he cares plenty about workmanship, fabrics and details. But it was that has feeling slightly scattered this season. devil-may-care styling that pulled it all together so brilliantly. Consider the The “Sweet Charity”-inspired collection she showed on effortless effect of the bulky baby alpaca cardigan tossed over an embroidered Monday certainly felt it, with references turning up from gray pintucked fl apper dress; an English tweed coat over a silk chiffon dress, the Fifties, Sixties, Seventies and Eighties. But hey, what’s or a camisole and corduroy tulip skirt. Everything seemed just right in this a little discord when there was still plenty of the sexy, girly promising start, and Lippes was rewarded with a huge turnout that included frocks that Johnson has made her calling card? The point his beaming mentor, , and friend Francisco Costa. d’esprit and chiffon baby-doll dresses, or the Lurex blouses and knits could take her fans to Broadway and back. And should Reem Acra: This collection was a beauty — from the beginning to, well, the weather turn cold, they’ve got their pick of attention-grabbing almost the end, when the last two exits seemed too overwrought for such a coats, say the mohair plaid with red yarn loop trim. It’s no secret that strong, restrained showing. Nonetheless, everything else articulated Reem Johnson’s always marched to the beat of her own drummer, but as the Acra’s confi dence and talent. She took another giant step forward with her fi nale paraded by with “It’s a Girl!” balloons, it appears that daughter ready-to-wear: silk chiffon or jacquard evening gowns with paillettes and Betsey Lulu’s secret is out. embroidery, and a high-waisted short dress that her younger gals are sure Johnson to fi nd at once sexy, lavish and charming. Lean tuxedo pants, pencil-thin adam+eve: Adam Lippes showed a knockout adam+eve lineup full of skirts and gently rounded bubble looks were shown with delicately beaded attitude: twentysomething boys and girls who were preppy, rich, edgy bodysuits or soft chiffon shirts with plunging necklines, as well as crisp and chic all at once. This designer has a confi dence rooted in talent, tailored versions — all which Acra worked with equal ease. While there WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2006 11 WWD.COM

Reem adam+eve Acra

Neil Barrett

adam+eve

Reem Acra PHOTOS BY GIOVANNI GIANNONI, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT MITRA GIANNONI, THOMAS IANNACCONE AND ROBERT GIOVANNI PHOTOS BY was a hint of vintage in her antique metallic-toned embroidery and deep color conjured up chain mail, and sweaters textured with seashell shapes and ancient palette, this collection was all about a modern approach to dressing up. protective symbols. Her coats, especially the beautiful white shearling trapeze, serenely simple wrap and blanket-like cape, should fl y out of stores come fall. The Max Azria Collection: New name, new look. After snipping the BCBG from his same goes for the woven pieces, such as a bloused and belted black silk dress inset designer label in order to clearly differentiate it from the lower-priced contemporary with lace. Some, however, criticized this collection as being a little dull. A perfectly line, Max Azria wanted to make sure the runway refl ected that change, too. Here, cut cashmere trench with clever details might not roar on a runway, but it does he employed a nip-and-tuck m.o. with architectural details that resembled abstract have its place in a smart wardrobe. origami folds. While he used this motif most effectively across the bustlines of oatmeal and chocolate jersey frocks, it read as tricky everywhere else. Otherwise, Neil Barrett: Is Hollywood ready for the idea of his-and-her tuxes? Maybe not the loose fi t of sweaters, monotone turtlenecks and louche sack dresses, in an overall yet, but Neil Barrett would like to change its thinking. Known for his men’s wear, neutral palette, struck a minimal chord. Cool girls will love the layering cashmere which is a favorite of Brad Pitt and Jake Gyllenhaal, the designer offered a capsule pieces, but might stop at the awkward, quilted coats and balloon silhouettes — collection of sleek if literal black-tie options for the ladies. Barrett, who normally especially the puffy knit shorts that bring attention to the thighs. Who wants that? shows in Milan, was so excited when he saw the fi nished women’s lineup that he decided spur of the moment to present it in New York for the fi rst time. (He plans Tse: It’s been three years since Tse’s last runway show, and now the house is to show here once a year, moving forward.) His black-on-black and faint military dipping a toe into the fashion pool under the guidance of Tess Giberson. The motif was right on the current masculine mark, and the lean cut of his pencil skirts designer worked her theme of Protection in a library-quiet palette of pale grays and cigarette pants will appeal to those who go for fuss-free shapes. So which red- and muted jewel tones. The story — which began with the literal reference of carpet doyennes does Barrett think could pull off these razor-thin tux looks? His a quilted cocoon coat — easily made its way through skinny knit dresses that nominees are: Naomi Watts, Julianne Moore and Kirsten Dunst. 12 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2006 Fashion Scoops

NATALIA’S NO SHOW: Francisco and Calvin THINK PINK: British actress Emily Mortimer stepped out on the red Costa and Klein face Natalia carpet at Monday night’s “Pink Panther” wearing a dress Natalia Vodianova won’t be designed by her stylist Cher Coulter. But as is nearly always the case, Vodianova strutting down the Calvin the black-and-white striped number she ended up with wasn’t the at The Heart Klein Collection runway only one in the running. An embroidered bubble dress Truth’s this Thursday, but instead had also caught their fancy, and the two ladies were struggling to Red Dress will take in the show with decide which Mortimer should wear just before the lights went down Collection hubby Justin Portman from for Luella Bartley’s show Sunday night. Both were rather partial to the show last the front row. The model, Balenciaga piece, but Mortimer reasoned, “I don’t think anyone Friday. who has been under will get it.” Instead, she decided to help plug her friend contract with the brand Coulter, who is based in Los Angeles and also styles Orlando since spring 2003 and Bloom, Eric Bana and Jared Leto. The Fifties-inspired frock typically opens and closes was accessorized with a Balenciaga bag, the show, is seven-and-a- shoes and Gilan green tourmaline earrings. half months pregnant. Fans of Vodianova need not despair, though Hollywood Bowl. Now appearing on Broadway in “Rabbit Hole,” — they can still get their Nixon said, “When I come to events like these, people usually model fi x in Times Square, dress me.” in SoHo, and on Sunset But she had “Sex and the City” costume designer Patricia Boulevard in Los Angeles, Field — not Vollbracht — to thank for the tweed coat on her where giant billboards of back. It was a leftover from the HBO show’s fi nal season and the spring a personal favorite of Nixon’s. Field may have suffered a Underwear campaign have fl ashback. She too was at the show and greeted Nixon warmly. recently gone up. SOAP BOX: Alec Baldwin made an appearance in Chaiken’s NOT OSCAR READY: Don’t front row on Tuesday to support his friend, Jeff Mahshie, ask Anne Hathaway what the company’s creative director, but not without his own she will be wearing to motivations. “I’m here because I love Chaiken, it’s all I wear,” the Academy Awards joked the outspoken actor. “But I am just happy to be here next month because the with Scott Ellis. The best advice I ever got was to star in his “Brokeback Mountain” play [“Entertaining Mr. Stone”] at the Roundabout Theatre.” actress won’t be attending. Chaiken had a fair share of celebrities including Julianna “I’m going to be in Margulies, Kyra Sedgwick, Illeana Douglas and Martha England then fi lming my Plimpton, who brought along her beau, Saturday Night Live new movie, where I play a cast member Fred Armisen. “I get lots of material [for my young Jane Austen,” she comedy] here,” he said. “With the photographers and all of said Monday night at the that, there’s tons of inspiration.” Max Azria Collection show. Hathaway, who brought A HIGHER GRADE OF DIESEL: Diesel is expanding its Diesel Denim along her father, Gerard, to watch the action, is planning to hit a few other shows this week Gallery concept from one-of-a-kind denim pieces into a full but said she was really looking to score a ticket to the “Project Runway” show Friday morning collection that will represent the premium group of the Diesel at the tents. “I’m addicted to it,” the actress said of the reality show hosted by Heidi Klum. brand. The “I’m really rooting for Chloé to win.” denim gallery Emily Other celebrities and starlets checking out Azria’s new frocks included Paula Abdul, Vivica Janice concept Mortimer Fox, Kelly Rowland and Mya, who said she is plotting her own fashion line. “There is a lot of Dickinson launched in saturation now with celebrity lines so I am taking my time getting mine ready,” she said. “It 2001 as a should be ready by 2008.” collection of limited- START ME UP: For several models of a certain age, the runway is just the start of a long and edition jeans sometimes lucrative multimedia career. Proof is “America’s Next Top Model” judge, author that started at a and talk show host Janice Dickinson, whose latest incarnation is model wrangler. The ever- retail price point saucy brunette said she is starting her own modeling agency to try to get more American of $500. The models on the runways. “I want to help put back sisters and women of color on the runway fi rst pieces of the new Diesel Denim and not all these Russians and Brazilians. Gallery collection will be seen on the I’m sick of all these blonde-haired, blue- Anne runway during the company’s show eyed bitches,” Dickinson said. Hathaway at the Hammerstein Ballroom today. Ditto for celebrity cover girls. “I’m tired with her The collection will include 25 pieces of Julia Roberts, Halle Berry, Sarah Jessica father, for women and 25 for men, with retail Parker and all these other celebrities that Gerard, at prices ranging from $200 for T-shirts are acting like models. In my day, models Max Azria. up to $2,000 for leather jackets. had the covers, not celebrities,” she said. Staff International, a division of “I want to fully bring back the American Brave New World, the Diesel holding supermodel.” company, will be responsible for sales At the shows Monday to catch BCBG and distribution of the line. Diesel’s Max Azria, Jill Stuart and Betsey Johnson, creative team will continue to serve Dickinson said she wanted to check out as the designers of the collection. the trends and see what the fl avor is so Boutiques in the U.S. that are she will be up to speed for her talk show expected to carry the new collection on Oxygen. But she was not impressed include H. Lorenzo in Los Angeles, with the buzz, or lack thereof, in Bryant Janet Brown in Port Washington, N.Y., Park. “The reality is this business has and Hirshleifer’s in Manhasset, N.Y. become too boring. They’re bringing it to a The collection will also be carried at standstill. It’s too safe.” Joyce in Hong Kong, Brown Thomas According to Dickinson, with everyone’s in Dublin and Dieci Corso Como in eyes on the bottom line, there’s no room Milan. for charity. “It’s all very selfi sh. We’re not giving back to society enough,” said SAVE THE DATE: The Council of Fashion Designers of America has set the date for its 2006 Dickinson, who plans to donate half the CFDA Fashion Awards for Monday, June 5. As in past years, the event will take place at The proceeds from her modeling agency’s sales New York Public Library, starting with cocktails at Astor Hall followed by the dinner and the to help fi ght AIDS. awards ceremony at the Celeste Bartos Forum. Swarovski will sponsor the event, which will be produced by KCD. The graphics during the presentation as well as the gala journal will be art SO LAST SEASON: Cynthia Nixon turned directed by Douglas Lloyd of Lloyd + Co. up at Bill Blass Tuesday as a pledge of allegiance to one of her go-to designers, Michael The awards were founded in 1981, and this year, there will be categories such as design Vollbracht. He provided the former “Sex and the City” actress with red-carpet ensembles for excellence in women’s wear, men’s wear and accessories, as well as special honors for

this year’s Golden Globes, Emmys, Toronto Film Festival and a recent performance at the excellence in journalism, creative vision and lifetime achievement. In addition, the CFDA JIM SPELLMAN/WIREIMAGE BY STEVE EICHNER; MORTIMER PHOTO BY WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2006 13 WWD.COM will once again honor up-and-coming talent through Swarovski’s Perry Ellis Award. More than pre-Grammy party on Tuesday (the Grammy week equivalent Jaime- 450 CFDA members, editors, store executives and fashion stylists will vote to determine the of Vanity Fair’s post-Oscar party), makeup artists were on hand Lynn nominees and special honorees, which will be announced on March 28. Ernst & Young LLP, to apply touch-ups and airbrushed makeup from L’Oréal Paris’ Sigler the accounting fi rm of the awards, will tabulate the voting. High Intensity Pigments line, known as HIP. After all, the likes of Kelly Clarkson and Heather Headley wanted to look good CHEATING HEARTS: Though she has professed her love and devotion to Alberta Ferretti, donning for the stage grips, and Jamie Foxx and Barry Manilow, who the designer’s dresses on numerous occasions for her red-carpet and public appearances, performed as well, aren’t without vanity either. actress Patricia Clarkson was, somewhat guiltily, keeping her options open from the front row Meanwhile, Y-3 is planning to make a statement on both of the Naeem Khan show Sunday afternoon. “I feel like I’m cheating on Alberta,” exclaimed the West and East Coasts this evening. In L.A., the Adidas- Clarkson, decked out in Khan’s clingy pink print backed brand designed by Yohji Yamamoto will take part in the shift. She has recently worn his dresses to the DGA Cynthia “Getting Out Our Dreams” post-Grammy bash hosted by Foxx and SAG awards. And the jury’s still out on what Nixon and Grammy nominees Kanye West, Common and John Legend. Clarkson will sport to Vanity Fair’s Oscar dinner. As Also tonight, Y-3 will launch its noir-inspired fall collection for other straying this week, she was adamant Khan’s in New York at a show to be held at the Roseland Ballroom. show would be her only dalliance. “I’m just going to Mena Suvari, Anna Kournikova, Nicky Hilton, Liz Goldwyn, Fabiola this — I’m only a Naeem woman!” And, of course, a Beracasa and Helena Christensen are expected to attend. Ferretti one, too. ON HIS OWN: Peter Hidalgo, Miguel Adrover’s former design OLYMPIC MOMENTS: With the opening ceremony of director, is stepping out on his own almost two years after the Winter Olympics scheduled for Friday, Turin is Adrover decided to pack up and leave New York for Spain. gearing up to welcome royalty of all kinds this week, This Friday, the Santo Domingo native will present his fall from fashion king Giorgio Armani, who will reopen his collection, which is inspired by the likes of Greta Garbo and Turin boutique today, to the Swedish royal family, Joan Crawford, at the Linda Dresner boutique on Park Avenue. Henry of Luxembourg, Princess Anne of England and Hidalgo, who had his own line in the Dominican Republic, Prince Albert II of Monaco, who are all expected moved to New York in 1994 and worked for a West Village to make appearances. First Lady Laura Bush and boutique before joining Adrover in 2001. Cherie Blair are also expected. Omega, one of the Some may recollect Hidalgo making it down the runway offi cial sponsors, invited Cindy Crawford to attend its holding hands with Adrover and his studio manager Oscar party Tuesday. Also, the buzz in Turin is that Sophia Correcher at Adrover’s last show for spring 2005 — the one Loren will present her new jewelry line, produced by where Adrover famously wore a T-shirt with the words “Anyone Damiani, on Thursday. Armani, who has confi rmed Seen a Backer” emblazoned on the back. his presence at the opening ceremony, will make an appearance at his newly renovated three-story PREMIER EVENT: “This is my fi rst show this season,” said Jamie- boutique in central piazza San Carlo today for a Lynn Sigler, who was seated in the front row at Monique Lhuillier’s cocktail and a signing of the photographic book “I show. She said she also planned to attend Heatherette, J. Mendel Can,” devoted to the Special Olympics, founded by and . “I always wear Monique and always come to her Eunice Kennedy Shriver. Olympic gold gymnast Igor shows,” said Sigler, who’s enjoying some downtime, having just Cassina, John “Jaki” Elkann and his wife, Lavinia Borromeo, Eva Herzigova and Gregorio Marsiaj wrapped up the fi lming of the sixth season of “The Sopranos,” which begins airing March 12. are among the guests slated to attend the event. INSIDE VIEW: Oscar.com’s “Style” section is beefi ng up its offerings to compete with the L’OREAL’S HIGH NOTE: L’Oréal, in its fi fth year as telecast sponsor for the Grammy Awards, which myriad media also devouring the subject. This year’s site coverage includes photo galleries air tonight at 8 p.m. on CBS, is moving quickly ahead in the integrated marketing race in from Oscars ceremonies going back eight decades, a section detailing the sartorial evolution Hollywood. By scoring the triple sponsorship of Grammys, Golden Globes and Academy Awards, of particular stars and a “Fashion Forward” gallery with streaming video from designers’ and the brand can practically guarantee its glam stable of celebrity spokesmodels — Eva Longoria, jewelers’ studios. This week features an interview with Escada’s Brian Rennie and Carmen Marc Beyoncé, Scarlett Johansson and Penélope Cruz among them — will show at the events or parties Valvo. Tom Julian, Oscar.com’s style analyst, an 11-year Academy Award red-carpet veteran, surrounding the shows, a nice bit of insurance. At Monday night’s sound check for Clive Davis’ was named senior vice president, strategic director of trends, for McCann Erickson last week.

We are pleased to announce the opening of our new Fifth Avenue store

www.sergiorossi.com New York, 694 Fifth Avenue T 212 956 3303 14 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2006 WWD.COM Jacobs’ Ladder Dita Von Teese, Marc Jacobs and Jenna Jameson. NEW YORK — If the barometer of a designer’s cool quotient is measured by the number of hipsters clamoring to get into the after party, then Marc Jacobs is still at the top. After his show Monday night, a horde of downtown twentysomethings, models and a few Marc-obsessed celebrities descended upon 24 Fifth Avenue for champagne and people-watching. Helena Christensen congratulated Karen Elson on her runway turn — she’s seven months pregnant and had the honor of opening the show. “I’m wearing Marc,” said Elson, with her barely discernible bump camoufl aged by a swishy black cocktail dress. “It’s not specially made, though; it just fi ts, thank God.” Lily Cole, Tasha Tilberg, Daria Werbowy and Erin Wasson stopped by for a drink, while Rachel Bilson and Adam Brody hid in a corner. But the real stir was created by the offi cial “friends of Marc,” like Sofi a Coppola, , Sonic Youth’s Kim Gordon and Karen O, who took over a row of banquettes to chat amongst themselves. Camilla Winona Brandon Davis, meanwhile, was stuck behind Al Fayed Ryder in Marc Julia the velvet ropes. Jacobs. Restoin- “I’m Brandon Davis, I’m Brandon Davis,” he Roitfeld chanted until they fi nally relented and let him through the door. This season’s Lil’ Kim stand-ins came in the form of Dita Von Teese and Jenna Jameson, who posed for chummy pics with Jacobs. “This year fashion week is not just about the partying for me, I’m really focusing on the clothes,” proclaimed Rachel Jameson, who is more famous for not Bilson wearing any. Interestingly, the nascent in Marc fashion lover hadn’t even been invited to the Jacobs. after party. Nor had she been at the catwalk show, which she decided was “enthralling” anyway. But who can blame her for crashing — Marc Jacobs is the perfect place for a celebrity in search of a photo op. Speaking of which, Nicole Richie loved the Sofi a show, proclaiming it “amazing.” “It was like ‘Sleeping Coppola Beauty,’ ” said the wee one, accompanied by her ever- in Marc present stylist, Rachel Zoe. Jacobs. The stylist’s other client, Lindsay Lohan, rolled in around 11:30 fl anked by a phalanx of security guards. She’s had a busy fashion week so far and, as Lindsay Lohan for the rest of the shows, Lohan said she was juggling in Marc Jacobs. her schedule, between fl ying out to do a music video and hosting a dinner with at some point this week. Someone grabbed Jacobs and pushed him into the center of a threesome with Camilla Al Fayed and Lohan and the two girls promptly turned in to kiss him on both cheeks. Despite rumors she might walk in Jacobs’ show, Lohan said she’d been hiding backstage to watch. (Although others behind the scenes said the actress and her crew only turned up shortly before the show’s end.) Nicole Despite such rambunctious behavior, Jacobs, for one, couldn’t hide his burgeoning affection for the actress. “I Richie saw ‘Mean Girls,’ ” the designer said. “I love Lindsay Lohan.”

NEW YORK — Kelli O’Hara is fi nally getting the chance When it comes to to lighten up. FRONT New York Fashion SLUMBER PARTY For the last three-and-a-half years, the actress has Week, sometimes been playing Clara Johnson, a mentally handicapped ROW it’s possible to have teenager at the center of the Broadway show “The Light FLASH too many industry in the Piazza,” garnering critical acclaim and a Tony friends. Actress nod along the way. This month she switches genres at Claire Danes found herself last to star in the upbeat musical revival of “The Pajama in just such a predicament Game” with Harry Connick Jr. Tuesday, when she was forced But fi rst, O’Hara had to pass a chemistry test with to choose between longtime Connick. Not surprisingly, it wasn’t that diffi cult. “Of buddy Narciso Rodriguez’s course we have chemistry,” the 29-year-old O’Hara says show and the Versace party laughing, “because I’m a straight woman, and he’s a and dinner. Fortunately for straight man. And he’s been lifting weights for the last Behnaz Sarafpour, no such three months and looks like a god.” confl icts prevented Danes from Still, it wasn’t just physical appearances that caused supplying the designer’s runway the sparks to fl y (at least on stage — O’Hara’s engaged presentation with ample star- and Connick’s married). Having earned a degree in opera, O’Hara is astute about musical theory and credits Connick wattage in the front row. with being a “brilliant musician.” They also are able to make each other laugh. “It’s actually pretty warm,” “She’s kind of a goofball, I’m kind of a goofball,” Connick, a fi rst-timer to the theater, says. “She’s limitless with she remarked of the Sarafpour her sense of humor, which put me at ease.” cream-colored shift dress with At the very heart of the duo’s connection, however, is their strong Southern roots. Connick’s music is intrinsically black piping and two black-bow- tied to his New Orleans upbringing, while O’Hara remains deeply attached to her family back in Oklahoma. The soprano trimmed pockets she was wearing. left her hometown, where she was “the one person to sing at all the funerals and all the weddings,” seven-and-a- “And these pockets!” she added, half years ago to pursue her dream as a singer. Within four days of her arrival in New York she landed a part and has lifting the fl apping attachments managed to work consistently ever since in productions such as “Follies,” “Dracula” and “Sweet Smell of Success.” dangling at her hips. While “Light in the Piazza” pushed O’Hara into the spotlight, she didn’t walk away from the show easily. “They Danes, who just fi nished fi lming had a conniption fi t,” she says of the producers. “I was so personally intertwined with these people on a heart level “The Flock” with Richard Gere, that I felt like I was stabbing them in the back. And then I realized this is business.” was fi rst introduced to Sarafpour So she took on Babe, the feisty and strong-willed pajama factory worker (a role made famous by Doris Day in the 1957 by friend Selma Blair. “Her clothes fi lm, based on the original Broadway musical) who falls for her supervisor, played by Connick. O’Hara instantly identifi ed are glamorous, without being with the character. “A negative part of her and me is the need to prove things,” she says. “But when she does release, it’s so ostentatious,” said Danes. “And there’s Claire satisfying to her and everybody else. A lot of times I’m on the surface, and when I do give in to myself, it feels pretty powerful.” always something unexpected.” Danes in It’s likely that just that determination, combined with her vulnerability, landed O’Hara where she is, living the Lest others of Danes’ fashion designer Behnaz dream of other young artists who travel from small towns with the hope of one day seeing their names in lights. “I amigos get antsy, the actress also will be Sarafpour remember giving myself two years to get on Broadway, and if I didn’t, I was going to go home. It took just under two attending Zac Posen’s show Thursday at her years and almost didn’t happen,” O’Hara says. “I don’t think I would have gone home, though.” evening. show. — Emily Holt It sure isn’t easy being popular. JACOBS AND DANES PHOTOS BY STEVE EICHNER; O’HARA BY TALAYA CENTENO; RYDER BY BILLY FARRELL/PMC BILLY CENTENO; RYDER BY TALAYA BY STEVE EICHNER; O’HARA JACOBS AND DANES PHOTOS BY

16 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2006 WWD.COM Werbowy’s Model Approach to Beauty

By Molly Prior her artistic leanings. She still sketches regularly and de- NEW YORK — Daria Werbowy is a model cided to skip the runway last season to stranded in a celebrity’s fashion world, reclaim her sense of self. and she can’t help but notice. “I wasn’t reading or sketching. I was Since inking a contract last spring to losing the things that make me me,” said be the face of Lancôme’s new fragrance, Werbowy, referring to her fi ve seasons of Hypnôse, and eventually its color cos- doing runway shows before taking the metics, as well, the Ukrainian-born break last fall. Canadian has crossed the threshold And her absence may have only added into beauty, a business that recently has to her draw. “The key for me is accepting become transfi xed more with those who what I do and not being ashamed to be saunter down the red carpet than the a model,” she said. To Werbowy, model- runway. But Werbowy is hoping to do ing is the means to new ventures. Off the her part to reclaim models’ marketing runway, her look may be understated, but might from the fi rm hold of celebrities. Werbowy’s pull to extend herself into beau- “It’s unfortunate if you are a model,” ty is rooted in her take on womanhood. said Werbowy with a bit of irony last week as she paused between fi ttings. “If they can come into our world, why can’t we go The modern woman into theirs?” she mused rhetorically. can“ transform herself from year to year, and BEAUTY BEAT re-create herself to be And her Hollywood counterparts soon may have to make room for the 5- anybody. foot, 10-inch model. “I’d love to try acting,” said Werbowy. ” — Daria Werbowy “Film is such an amazing form of ex- pression and creativity.” Werbowy dab- “The modern woman can transform bled in the movie business while grow- herself from year to year, and re-create ing up in Toronto, working as an extra herself to be anybody,” she said. in fi lms and television programs. “Beauty is a big word,” she declared. Werbowy has appeared in ads for “I can’t think of something I don’t fi nd Prada, and Chanel, but the mul- beautiful. I fi nd beauty in sorrow and tiyear Lancôme deal marks her fi rst events that are unfortunate.” beauty contract. While Lancôme execu- Refl ecting on her eight years in the tives declined to reveal the details, the business, Werbowy said: “The industry industry norm for a model as the face has become a lot more commercial in of a beauty brand is a three-year agree- a lot of ways. The turnaround of girls is ment worth $1 million annually. faster, which has created an interesting Werbowy admitted she initially worried mentality for models — they treat it more she would not fi t the “superhuman” image as a business than a career.” a beauty company might require, but that In a business that prizes youth, at Lancôme executives put her at ease. age 22 Werbowy said she feels old next “They’ve been very supportive of to the gaggle of 14-year-olds backstage who I am as an individual and have let at fashion week. To combat that feeling, me bring my own sense of style to the her philosophy is to take on as much as project,” said Werbowy, noting that, dur- she can until the new crop of models ing the shoot, executives listened to her emerges on the scene. opinions. “It’s given me a voice.” So far this New York season, the Werbowy, who entered modeling at model has walked the runway for age 14 while fi nishing her studies at an , Oscar de la Renta, arts high school in Toronto, gives off Marc Jacobs and Luella Bartley. more of an independent artist vibe than As for how she handles the push and that of a fashion industry darling. Her pull of fashion Week, Werbowy said: smooth, introspective disposition suits “Adrenaline is a beautiful thing.”

The interior of the Nave to Open First Freestanding Unit Nave boutique. By Lauren DeCarlo rary collection based in Milan; a linen eyelet dress designed by Chai, and linen woven tops designed by NEW YORK — When Onward Kashiyama launched the Borne, a contemporary collection based here. The re- Nave collection in September, the concept was simple: tail price range of Nave is $50 to $500. Design a collection as a retailer would stock a store. In Designs by collaborating designers, Stacey Bendet, essence, only carry merchandise designed by the best founder and designer of Alice + Olivia, and New York- in each category. based shirt designer Steven Alan, will be sold exclu- Now Nave is embarking on its own retail expan- sively at department stores in Japan, but will not retail sion with the Feb. 11 opening of its fi rst freestanding at the Nave boutique in SoHo. Nave will hit stores in boutique at 159 Mercer Street here. The 1,800-square- Japan in March. foot store will feature the complete spring and sum- Sumi is anticipating a retail volume of about $2 mer sportswear, outerwear and accessories collections million in the SoHo store’s fi rst year. The line is being designed by Richard Chai, the brand’s consulting cre- shown to buyers for the fi rst time, so Sumi sees the ative director, plus other merchandise designed by store as an extension of the brand’s marketing. seven of Nave’s collaborating designers. “This is still an unknown collection,” Sumi said. “The brand and the concept is very unique and spe- “This store is good for building an image. We’re trying cial and everything in the store is custom-made and to get recognized.” special,” said Hiroaki Sumi, president and chief ex- In addition to the boutique, which was designed by ecutive offi cer of Onward Retail LLC, the U.S. division Takuya Takatsu of the Tokyo-based architectural fi rm of Onward Kashiyama. Beaks Planners, Nave is kicking off its fi rst advertising Perhaps Sumi was speaking of the store wall that campaign in the February issues of magazines such is entirely covered in steel, inspired by the art called as Figaro and Spur Japan and March books of Elle, Edo Kiriko, the traditional Japanese glass etching BlackBook, Gotham and Interview. Television commer- technique that dates to the early 1800s. Or maybe it cials will start airing on Japanese TV in mid-February. is the fl oor-to-ceiling circular clothing racks set in the The ads target Nave’s core consumer or, as Sumi puts center of the store. The interior, like the collection, is it, “Fashion-forward ladies in their 20s to 40s who are inspired by a mixture of ideas and designs. always looking for something new.” Key pieces from the spring collection include a “And,” he added, “women who just know how to lavender print cocktail dress by Rohka, a contempo- wear it.” PHOTO COURTESY OF DIGI FOTO PHOTO COURTESY 12.00 am. January 1, 2006.

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North America • Europe • Asia-Pacific • Africa • Middle East www.newmarkkf.com/retail 18 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2006 WWD.COM IT Holding’s Pressure to Evolve By Amanda Kaiser generate about 100 million euros, or $120 million, in wholesale revenue over the next three to fi ve years. MILAN — Italian brand Malo is staging its fi rst run- Perna said IT Holding will make up the rest of the way show in New York today in a bid to generate buzz lost D&G revenue through growth of other licensed and win over new customers in the U.S. market. lines such as Just Cavalli, Versace Jeans Couture, Just as Malo aims to convert itself from a sleepy C’N’C Costume National as well as in-house labels knitwear brand into a luxury label, its parent compa- Ferré, Malo and Exte. ny, IT Holding SpA, is undergoing a transformation Replacing the revenue stream from D&G isn’t the of its own. Last year, IT Holding lost its biggest and only fi nancial hurdle for the company. It has yet to most lucrative license, for Dolce & Gabbana’s D&G turn a profi t at Ferré, which Perna bought in 2000. collection. It’s also facing debts amassed from its acquisitions in IT Holding ascended as a manufacturing power the Nineties and a junk bond rating from Standard in the Nineties, pioneering the concept of diffusion & Poor’s. IT Holding posted a net loss of 10.5 mil- lines such as Just Cavalli, Versus and Versace Jeans, lion euros, or $12.6 million, on sales of 518.3 million but since has faced a series of setbacks, including euros, or $622 million, for the fi rst nine months of lost licenses, a debt pile amassed from a past acqui- last year. sitions binge and the ongoing restructuring of its un- Still, the company is quick to defend its fi nancial sta- profi table Gianfranco Ferré business. bility. A spokesman clarifi es that a recently refi nanced D&G’s departure prompted inevitable changes at bond issue for 185 million euros, or $222 million, isn’t IT Holding, including a new fi ve-year licensing pact due until 2012. Those bonds account for about 59 per- for a John Galliano diffusion line and a renewed cent of IT Holding’s total debts, which were 315 million focus to grow wholly owned brands such as Ferré, euros, or $378 million, as of Dec. 31. Malo and Exte. IT Holding also witnessed the launch Perna stressed the company is strong and pro- of a new minority shareholder, Monte Carlo-based ducing cash fl ow and said he takes pride in the fact jeweler Alberto Repossi, who wants to make Ferré- that a company of IT Holding’s size has even regis- branded baubles for the group. tered on the radar of international fi nancial institu- “I don’t know if it is because we are very good or tions like Standard & Poor’s. He also lamented that also just a bit lucky, but after Dolce & Gabbana, we fi nancial costs, including amortization, are generat- got the number-one designer in terms of creativity ing the losses. and notoriety,” IT Holding president and chief exec- “This is a characteristic of transparency, of clar- utive offi cer Tonino Perna said of Galliano during an ity and of stability,” said Perna, a stocky man, whose exclusive interview at company headquarters here. affable, southern Italian style stands apart from the “Galliano will need time to grow, to reach large- formal business climate that dominates Milan. scale volumes. But we have also planned for internal Perna said IT Holding has been so focused with growth with all of the other lines, so I would say that its internal growth strategies, including the launch we have compensated [for D&G] well.” of diffusion brand GF Ferré and a foray into acces- Galliano alone won’t fi ll the void D&G’s departure sories, that he was hesitant to take on a new licens- has created, however. D&G generated about 200 mil- ing deal, but he couldn’t say no to Galliano. lion euros, or $240 million, in sales for IT Holding, “There’s a great enthusiasm at [our] company that nearly 30 percent of its consolidated revenue. Tonino Perna hasn’t been there for years, because at the end of the Galliano and IT Holding expect their new venture to day, this name is really the most desirable right now in terms of international retail,” Perna said. “This seemed like too good of an opportunity for us.” Market observers concerned with IT Holding’s future can’t help, but agree with that statement. “Galliano by itself is not going to be enough,” said one of the few analysts who still covers IT Holding’s stock and declined to speak on the record. “They have to work to add other licenses.” Perna said his team and Galliano are still outlining a plan for the new brand, which has yet to be named. Distribution will focus on “very, very selective” wholesale accounts initially, Perna said, add- ing pricing will mirror that of lines such as Just Cavalli, D&G, GF Ferré and Versace Jeans Couture. But Galliano is just one of many areas of potential growth for the company, Perna said. This year, the company will use franchis- ing agreements to open new boutiques including 18 Ferré stores in China and at least 20 IT Plus multibrand accessories stores around the world, especially in the Middle East and Eastern Europe. Meanwhile, the company has to turn around Ferré and Perna is optimistic. Although he declined to specify a precise breakeven tar- get for the house, he said things are proceeding well. “Ferré is doing well in every way, perhaps even better than what one could have envisioned a few months ago,” he said. There are a different set of challenges awaiting at Malo, which IT Holding bought in 1999. Over the past few seasons, the company has attempted to transform the knitwear brand into a fashion and lifestyle player, expanding its product range into accessories and tapping Eva Herzigova for its ad campaign. Perna said Malo’s product range was too limited and pricy, a problem that’s been rectifi ed with entry-level accessories and sport- ier outerwear ranging from 250 euros, or $298.75, to 300 euros, or $358.50. He said the lower prices will win over new customers to the brand. “Malo is emerging out of its niche as a cashmere label and is starting to be a global brand,” he said. Perna said Malo will post sales of 60 million euros, or $72 million, this year; the goal is to double that turnover in the next three years. Perna also is reviewing the image and product range at Exte, a brand the company invented in the mid-Nineties. The collec- tions have earned mixed reviews and struggled to fi nd an identity throughout the tenures of designers Antonio Berardi, Sergio Ciucci and the current team. But Perna said sales of Exte sunglasses and fragrances, both of which are licensed out to third parties, indicate the strength of the brand. Sales of Exte clothing, accessories and licensed products should reach more than 80 million euros, or $96 million, this year, an IT Holding spokesman said. The brand’s store on swanky Via Della Spiga has been shuttered to make way for a GF Ferré shop later this month. Meanwhile, IT Holding is pondering an Exte store in Milan near the city center or on the edgier Porta Ticinese strip. Exte will no longer stage a runway show as IT Holding considers a different way to present the collection. Perna said Exte has to focus on innovative materials and denim rather than try to be a designer label. “It is the antibrand and in- stead we tried to make it a brand,” Perna quipped. WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2006 19 WWD.COM Marketing Fickle Fiftysomethings Vote With Their Feet By Valerie Seckler NEW YORK — There is about $26 billion in apparel TOP INFLUENCES ON APPAREL SPENDING: purchasing up for grabs annually by the 50-and-older crowd — but it will be challenging for any one brand to count on a good chunk of it. WOMEN 50 AND OLDER, DECEMBER 2005 That’s because Americans 50 and up are showing little loyalty to fashion brands, unlike t heir predeces- Ranking Media/People Most Likely to Trigger Share of Women Infl uenced sors at the same age. Apparel Purchasing (Age 50 and older) Just 10 percent of the group, which numbers 81 mil- lion, has professed an attachment to particular brands of activewear; only 9 percent were loyal to casual sportswear labels; 8 percent felt strong ties to career- wear names, and 4 percent stayed true to fashion ac- 1. In-store displays 76% cessories brands, said Michael Gratz, research director at AARP Publications, in citing data from a Roper Poll taken in 2004. “These are very demanding individuals and they won’t settle on something because of a brand name,” Gratz said in an interview, referring to people ages 2. Magazine ads, editorial content 41% 50-59. “Quality is most important, they have money to spend, and, unlike their predecessors, if you don’t give them what they want, they’ll go to another brand.” 3 People on the street 34% These [fi ftysomethings] are very “demanding individuals and they 4. Friends 32% won’t settle on something because 5. Family 15% of a brand name. — Michael” Gratz, AARP Publications 6. TV and movies 12% Here’s what’s at stake: First-wave Baby Boomers, in the 50-59 bracket, are spending a total of $1 trillion in discretionary income annually, said Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst at NPD Group. By comparison, people just a decade older are spending about half as much discretionary income, or $500 million a year. 7. The Internet 9% More broadly, the 50-and-up set has collective in- come of about $2 trillion annually, according to AARP, the Washington, D.C.-based advocacy group for people 50 and older. Apparel is attracting $25.8 billion in annual spend- ing among Americans over age 49, with the largest 8. Celebrities 6% share, 55 percent, or $14.3 billion, being spent by those in their 50s, and 27 percent, or $7 billion, being shelled out by those 60-69, AARP data shows. Those 70 and older account for the balance, another $4.5 billion in 5% clothing expenditures a year. 9. Sales associates That $25.8 billion budgeted for apparel annually compares with annual purchases by those 50 and older amounting to $649 billion for automotive goods and $1.5 10. None of the above 5% trillion for investments. Those clothing purchases rep- resent a 14 percent share of the $178.7 billion expended NOTE: PERCENTAGES ARE NOT ADDITIVE; WOMEN COULD GIVE MORE THAN ONE RESPONSE. annually in the U.S. for things to wear, excluding shoes. SOURCE: APPLIED RESEARCH AND CONSULTING STUDY CONDUCTED FOR KELLWOOD CO., DECEMBER 2005. By 2010, today’s fi ftysomethings are projected to in- crease their discretionary spending by 12 percent, to an estimated $1.12 trillion while people now in their Nearly twice as many women 50 and older were inclined to buy apparel because of store displays than because of magazine content 60s are forecast to up their discretionary outlays by they’d seen. 7 percent, to $1.07 trillion, according to NPD Group. And that same year, the 55- to 64-year-old crowd and million of them women. The upswing is being fueled 45 are continuing to place a premium on expressing 65-and-up cohort are each expected to account for big- by a U.S. population in which someone is turning 50 themselves through their choice of electronic gadgets, ger percentage growth in the dollars they spend on ap- every seven seconds, a rate one second faster than the like cell phones and MP3 players, as well as by becom- parel than any other age group. Those in their mid-50s eight-second interval at which a baby is being born. ing savvy fi nancial investors. through mid-60s are seen expending 9 percent more In addition, women who are now reaching 50 without Those 50 and older are most infl uenced to buy than current levels, or about $15.6 billion; those 65 and incidence of heart disease or cancer have an average apparel by in-store displays, which move 76 per- up, 6 percent more, or $7.21 billion. life expectancy of 92 — 15 percent longer than wom- cent to do so, Robb said, followed by magazine con- In addition, four years from now, 80 percent of the en’s average age expectancy of 80, Robb noted. tent, which sways 41 percent; people on the street, country’s assets will be in the hands of the 50-plus “Baby Boomers don’t stop,’’ Cohen said. “They’re 34 percent; friends, 32 percent; family, 15 percent; population, up from 77 percent today, based on data playing hard and spending harder.” It’s a refl ection of TV and movies, 12 percent; the Internet, 9 percent; from NPD Group and AARP. Currently, adults ages 55- a phenomenon the fashion industry analyst described celebrities, 6 percent, and sales associates, 5 per- 64 have a median net worth of $112,000, or 15.5-times as “growing older, not up.” cent. Another 5 percent said none of those things more than the $7,200 median net worth held by those People ages 50 and older reported feeling younger infl uenced their clothing purchases. Those fi gures 18 to 54. (In 2001, Americans 50 and older held $29.1 than their age and still wanting to be more active, ac- are based on a study conducted in December for trillion in net worth, reported Paul Robb, chief execu- cording to an NPD Group study of 40,000 adults ages 18 Kellwood by Applied Research and Consulting, a con- tive offi cer of Kellwood’s lifestyle group, which com- and older, conducted online in October. More than 40 sumer market researcher. prises brands such as Oscar by Oscar de la Renta, Izod percent of the women surveyed expressed a sense of Don’t look for the 50-and-older crowd to burn and Sag Harbor.) Robb said he was citing data from youthfulness and 60 percent acknowledged a desire to through their fi nancial resources, though. On the con- Deloitte Research and Imago Creative. be engaged in more activities. Among their male con- trary, Cohen said, a new mind-set has been emerging Robb, Cohen and Gratz made presentations last temporaries, 60 their age, said the magazine’s editor, among the cohort, sparking investments in 401(k) re- month at a seminar called “Fifty is the New Thirty- Peggy Northrup. tirement plans on a bigger scale than their predeces- Five,” held by the American Apparel & Footwear Parts of two generations that have grown up ex- sors set aside money for retirement, as well as the le- Association at The Union League Club here, where pressing themselves, in signifi cant part, by the clothes veraging of second mortgages and reverse mortgages. they were joined by other panelists, including they’ve worn, Baby Boomers and Post-War women ages Compared with prior generations, today’s 50-and-up Kimberly Grayson, senior vice president of marketing 45-65 are a lot more likely to feel judged by the apparel population has greater access to fi nancial information, at Aerosoles, and Peggy Northrup, editor of More, a they wear than are those under 45 or older than 65, a higher degree of wealth and a broader offering of re- lifestyle magazine dedicated to women 40 and older. Cohen said. That belief characterized 45 percent of fe- tirement plans. They have also been prompted to sock By 2020, Gratz forecast that 38 percent of the coun- males 50 and older, and 50 percent of women overall away more money by the declining reliability of pen- try’s adults, or about 115 million people, will be 50 surveyed by NPD Group. sion plans — programs that could be counted on with or older, up from 28 percent, or 81 million today, 40 In contrast, NPD Group found, women younger than greater assurance in the past.

‹ 7KH&RQGp 1DVW3XEOLFDWLRQV,QF 22 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2006 WWD.COM WWD West And in L.A., Fashion Week Taking Shape

By Rose Apodaca Bradley Bayou is back after returning to the runway — and fashion busi- ness — last season. The calendar opens Sunday, March 19, with Kevan Hall LOS ANGELES — With fashion week in New York at full throttle, the drums and Louis Verdad. are beating louder for the runway shows here next month as designers David And for the fi rst time, 7th on Sixth organizers are presenting a day de- Meister, Jennifer Nicholson and Bradley Bayou have committed to participating voted to denim brands, on March 21. Among the marquee names signed up and Bebe makes its catwalk debut. is Antik Denim, which caused buzz last season — and not all of the positive Meister, whose $30 million dress and sportswear business owned by Kellwood Corp. variety. The brand had an overfl ow of guests, poor crowd management and a pa- is based south of downtown here, is among those on board for the fi rst time. He de- rade of almost nude models, which has become business-as-usual for many bated staging in Los Angeles or New York, but decided to present his fi rst runway denim lines presenting here. show here, where fashion week runs One 7th on Sixth offi cial, who asked not to be identifi ed, said “or- from March 19 to 23. ganizational issues are being addressed, and we are reinforcing the “Most of our business does, in idea that buyers are interested in seeing jeans, not nipples.” fact, take place in our New York The 70 or so exhibiting vendors who had set up shop at the Beverly showroom,’’ Meister said on Tuesday. Hilton are being relocated to HD Buttercup, the cavernous interior “But it’s important to be a part of the design marketplace near Smashbox Studios, Mallis said. L.A. community. Also generating much interest is the announcement that Bebe will “I defi nitely think Los Angeles show for the fi rst time on the runway as part of a special collection Fashion Week has made great strides rollout that includes its new face, Mischa Barton, and design col- from what it started as, so I thought laborators David Cardona and Arianne Phillips (see related story on this was the right time to be a part page 4). The event, taking place near Smashbox Studios, is expected of it,” Meister said as he awaited to draw celebrity friends of Phillips, Cardona and Barton, as well as confi rmation on his date and time hundreds of Bebe fans, said company founder Manny Mashouf. at Smashbox Studios in Culver City, Even with the renewed consideration among some companies where many of the shows take place to show in Los Angeles, Sheri Bodell is taking her rock ’n’ roll under the Mercedes-Benz Fashion chick collection to Paris for the fi rst time Week banner. Sheri Bodell and showing at the Carousel du Louvre. The idea that this is the right The date was pending confirmation at time also motivated Nicholson to press time. return home after showing in New “I decided I want to try something new York for several seasons, a spokes- and expand globally,” said Bodell, who also woman said. Nicholson, who was un- hired the Modern showroom in Milan and available for comment, will present a boutique publicity agency in Paris. her frothy confections on March 22. About 20 percent of Bodell’s sales are in And St. John, which is in the Europe and Asia, and she’s keen on grow- midst of changes in its design and ing both markets by focusing on both over- image under the stewardship of seas specialty and department retailers. chief executive officer Richard Total sales for 2004 were $3.5 million for the Cohen, is returning for a second brand, and Bodell is projecting an increase round, closing the shows on March to $5 million this year. 23 in the main tent at Smashbox. Bodell will also launch her Italian-made “The shows keep evolving each line of leather boots, sandals and stilettos. season, and we’re starting to fi nd more She will also show the collection March 3-6 people are giving a look at L.A.,” said at the Hotel Ritz Vendôme. Fern Mallis, executive director of 7th “The shows in L.A. have been great, on Sixth, which organizes the event. but I want to build my brand,’’ she said. “They’re seeing it as an opportunity St. John “I want to show earlier, I want to show in to open doors to another audience. front of more international buyers. I feel They’re seeing L.A. as a marketplace Antik Denim the whole vibe of the collection will work and not just a showcase.” better in Paris.” Man With a Plan: Robert Rodriguez Expands Line LOS ANGELES — Robert Rodriguez is ready for the spotlight. sweaters striped in neutrals and neon brights. A camel peacoat In less than two years, Rodriguez and partner Nicola with A-line sleeves is cropped and lined in leopard knit. Guarna have created a better contemporary line with A soft, fi ne leather group features skinny pants, knee- more than 300 doors domestically, including Neiman length shorts and a new military jacket. Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Bergdorf Goodman and spe- The Robert Rodriguez woman is “contemporary, fash- cialty shops such as Ron Herman in Los Angeles and ion-driven,’’ the designer said. “The idea is to give the cus- Intermix in New York. Sales are projected to surpass $22 tomer designer-like clothing at the best possible quality million in 2006. and affordable prices. We have everyone from daughters to “We love it,” said Frank Doroff, general merchandising mothers buying the clothes. That’s been our success.” manager at Bloomingdale’s. “It’s a great performing line. He knows something about straddling both the design- The sell-throughs have been very strong. Robert has a fresh er and better-priced markets. Born in Cuba and raised in perspective we love, and we’re putting the line in more and Miami, Rodriguez went to New York and received a degree more stores.” from the Fashion Institute of Technology. He spent the next But as much as fans know the collection of sophisticated six years through 1992 assisting the evening dress design- separates, forward cashmere shapes, fur-trimmed coats and ers at Christian . chic dresses, the man behind the label remains unknown. Six years after that, he came west to be the design di- “It’s been a very busy start. We’ve hardly caught our rector at the contemporary label Laundry by Shelli Segal. breath,” Rodriguez said from his downtown studio in the Months after he left in 2003, he met Guarna, a Montreal- Cooper Building. There, his staff of 21 work out of two — based distributor with several lines in the misses’ and con- soon to be three — expansive lofts. The designer will soon temporary markets. The two hit it off instantly. hire two more assistants. Eight weeks later, a collection was ready for buyers. “We Rodriguez and Guarna have resisted offers to license the wrote $10 million that fi rst year,” Guarna said. brand in accessories, footwear and even a fragrance until The next stage involves image building as much as ex- Rodriguez is better known. They have opted to grow strate- pansion into new markets, he said. Although the label now gically and slowly in order to maintain complete control. sells at Browns and Harvey Nichols in London to Lane “We appreciate that we’ve gotten into every major door, Crawford in Hong Kong, the company recently signed with and been able to pick the ones we want to be in,” said a European distributor to help with the markets there. Guarna, whose fi nancial know-how has been the comple- “The demand for an American brand there is amazing, ment to Rodriguez’s design sensibility. so we decided we needed someone who could better ser- That means clothes for women, not girls. Not surpris- vice the customers there,” Guarna said. ingly, Rodriguez has spotted Angelina Jolie, Nicole Kidman A considerable investment has been made in revamping and Scarlett Johansson in his wares. the trade show booth, too, in order to cement Rodriguez’s For fall, bowing at Coterie and the Mercer Hotel in image. New York next week, there are ladylike pencil skirts, frilly “I understand Robert’s vision, he understands mine,” blouses, ribbed sweaters with dolman sleeves and suit jack- Guarna said. “We work well together. I see Ralph Lauren, ets with fl ounced back panels. Giorgio Armani — we have the highest respect for the way The collection wholesales from $80 to $350. they’ve built their businesses. There’s a whole structure, a He references Forties silhouettes through an Eighties prism plan behind all of this.” Robert Rodriguez and a fall look.

with stovepipe pants and wide-leg trousers, and cashmere — R.A. SARDELLA DONATO JOHN BY ANTIK AND ST. TYLER BOYE; RODRIGUEZ BY 1=;7<5B=AB=@3A 4/:: $

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WWDEXECTECH BACK TO BASICS FOR WILSONS New technology has helped Nordstrom become more profi table while also By Denise Power enhancing customer service and selection. Wilsons Leather stores get fresh mer- chandise onto the sales fl oor 70 per- cent faster than at this time last year because of inventory scanners intro- duced four months ago. As the company presses its turn- around strategy, speed to shelf and overall store execution will be keys to reversing negative same-store sales trends. “It’s a great move and it had to be done,” said Eric Beder, senior vice president at Brean Murray, Carret & Co., a New York investment bank. He said the “tremendous” volume of price changes Wilsons makes at the store level demand that it be more effi cient. Without the scanners that most stores use to automate inventory receiving and pricing, Wilsons em- ployees relied on manual processes that chief executive offi cer Michael Searles called “frighteningly time- consuming, frighteningly tedious.” Equally disturbing, he said, employ- ees didn’t seem to mind. “I was beyond stunned,” Searles said during an interview at head- quarters here. Five months after joining Wilsons The Leather Experts, Searles used an earnings call to announce that 430 stores would be equipped with scan- ners within 100 days — by September 2005. Then it was Jeff Orton’s turn to be stunned. As Wilsons chief informa- tion offi cer in charge of technology, Orton got word of the $1 million proj- ect and its aggressive timetable when Wall Street did. “I had people in my offi ce imme- NORDSTROM TECH OVERHAUL BOOSTS PROFITS diately [asking] ‘How are we going to By Cate T. Corcoran of positive same-store sales. do this?’” Orton said. He joked that In 2004, the company spent more than $100 million on company executives are paying closer Nordstrom has a spectacular story to tell about new tech- a new point-of-sale system, which includes hardware from attention to earnings calls these days, nology that enabled the retailer to embrace its traditions of Fujitsu and internally developed software. The new POS sys- lest they miss out on crucial news. customer service and unique assortments while shrinking tem has reduced transaction time and allowed sales associ- Searles admitted the tactic was inventory and dramatically improving margins and sales per ates to access the Nordstrom Web site. They can look up any meant to dramatize the change he square foot. sku on the system and send it directly to any address. They represents after the departure of Speaking to Wall Street analysts at the A.G. Edwards con- can also see records of inventory transfers.The system has predecessor Joel Waller, who was ference in Coral Gables, Fla., last month, executive vice pres- enabled the company to cross-dock 80 percent of transfers Wilsons ceo for 21 years and is now ident and chief fi nancial offi cer Michael G. Koppel described and customer shipments though its warehouses for speedier ceo at The Wet Seal. Searles said he how the company has enhanced performance since 1999 with deliveries. Like many other retailers, Nordstrom now uses Continued on page 27 the help of new information systems in every aspect of its vendor tickets so it can look up prices, he said. business. The new system also supports Personal Book, clientele “Our company for a long time hadn’t been known for software from Blue Martini that helps sales associates man- technology,” Koppel said. “Our folks have age their contact with customers, such adapted very nicely to this.” In some as tracking alterations, special requests IPOD TAKES A SWIM areas, the returns have been higher than and birthdays. The retailer installed the Nordstrom expected, he said. If you can give software in 2004, and while it is “tough Since 2002, the company has revamped “ to say” exactly what the results have its behind-the-scenes operations and people the tools to been, Koppel said, sales have increased sales fl oor with nine new pieces of soft- in stores where the software is used ware, much of it from Oracle. The overall improve the customer frequently, and good customers have in- goals were to improve the customer expe- creased their spend. More salespeople The aptly named OtterBox will rience and optimize operations. relationship, they’ll do are using the software, and “we keep keep an iPod dry and free of dust “Our sales per square foot are like sharing winning stories, showing that under the most adverse condi- a specialty retailer, yet our infrastruc- better and better. those who are using it are having the best tions. When used with waterproof ture is like a department store retailer,” performance,” he said. headphones, an OtterBox-clad — Michael G.” Koppel iPod can go for a swim or Koppel said. Nordstrom has always recognized Sales per square foot increased to $370 sales associates who sell $1 million or visit the desert. Videos can be in 2005 from $321 in 2001. (Figures for 2005 are estimates, as more a year, and the number increased to 80 last year from watched and the click wheel the retailer has not yet fi led earnings.) Gross margin as a per- 30 in 2004. “If you can give people the tools to improve controlled through the ultrathin cent of sales grew to 36.6 percent last year from 32.9 percent the customer relationship, they’ll do better and better,” cover. It retails for $50. in 2001. Meanwhile, selling, general and administrative ex- Koppel said. penses as a percent of sales decreased to 27.2 percent from Last year, Nordstrom added replenishment optimiza- 30.3 percent. As a result, earnings before taxes grew to 11.2 tion from Oracle (Retek) and markdown optimization from percent of sales in 2005 from 3.7 percent of sales in 2001. Oracle (Profi tLogic). The former recommends optimum The results refl ect improved product selection and inven- replenishment scenarios and has allowed the company to tory discipline, as well as better cost controls, Koppel said. increase its percentage of in-stocks by 500 basis points. It The company automated its warehouse operations in 2002 has also increased sales of replenished goods by 8 percent with software from Manhattan Associates. The software cut on 3 percent less inventory. The company has not yet seen two days out of Nordstrom’s supply chain and reduced ware- results from Profi tLogic, but expects it to help improve mar- house labor costs by 45 percent. It also trimmed the cost of gins, Koppel said. handling for each unit by 10 percent, Koppel said. In the past few years, the retailer has installed fi nancial The next year, the company installed perpetual inven- and human resources systems from Oracle as well as a man- tory software from Retek, now owned by Oracle, which let it agement dashboard from MicroStrategy. (The dashboard lets know how every stockkeeping unit was performing at each executives see company fi nancials at a glance.) All of these location. It also managed markdowns and replenishment. To have helped Nordstrom improve its controls and helped save date, the system has benefi ted Nordstrom with an increase in money. “One of my challenges has been to reduce the 12,000 gross margin of 300 basis points and 32 consecutive months Continued on page 26 Small Business

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call 877.292.DELL toll free Call: M-F 7a-8p, Sat 8a-5p CT *Pricing/Availability: Pricing, specifications, availability, and terms of offer may change without notice. Taxes, fees, shipping, handling and any applicable restocking charges extra, vary and are not subject to discount. Offers may be combined with other select offers or discounts. U.S. Dell Small Business new purchases only. LIMIT 5 DISCOUNTED OR PROMOTIONAL ITEMS PER CUSTOMER. In case of customers leasing under these promotions, please note that items leased will be subject to applicable end-of-lease options or requirements. Dell cannot be responsible for pricing or other errors, and reserves the right to cancel orders arising from such errors. Hard Drive: For hard drives, GB means 1 billion bytes and TB equals 1 trillion bytes; actual capacity varies with preloaded material and operating environment and will be less. Shared Memory for OptiPlex GX620: Up to 224MB of system memory may be allocated to support graphics, depending on system memory size and other factors. On-Site Service: Service may be provided by third-party. Technician will be dispatched, if necessary, following phone-based troubleshooting. Subject to parts availability, geographical restrictions and terms of service contract. Service timing dependent upon time of day call placed to Dell. U.S. only. Leasing: Monthly payment based on 48-month Fair Market Value (“FMV”) QuickLease and does not include taxes, fees, shipping and handling charges. Your monthly payment may vary, depending on your creditworthiness. QuickLease arranged by Dell Financial Services L.P. (“DFS”), an independent entity, to qualified Small Business customers. Minimum transaction size of $500 required. At the end of the FMV QuickLease, you can: purchase the equipment for the then FMV, renew the lease or return the equipment to DFS. Please contact your DFS representative for further details. All terms subject to credit approval and availability, and are subject to change without notice. Trademarks/Copyright Notices: Dell, the Dell logo, OptiPlex, the stylized E logo and E-Value are trademarks of Dell Inc. Intel, Intel logo, Intel Inside, Intel Inside logo, Pentium and Pentium Inside are trademarks or registered trademarks of Intel Corporation or its subsidiaries in the United States and other countries. Microsoft and Windows are trademarks or registered trademarks of Microsoft Corporation in the United States and/or other countries. ©2006 Dell Inc. All rights reserved. 26 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2006

WWDEXECTECH Former NBC News anchor WWD FETES SERVICE STARS Tom Brokaw. Retail’s giving side was honored in January during the WWD Exec Tech Community Service Awards, where keynote speaker and former NBC News anchor Tom Brokaw appealed for a renewed commitment to public service. The event was hosted by Microsoft, Intel and Hewlett- Packard at New York’s Gotham Hall. Award winners were QVC, Mervyns, Sheetz, The Sak and LilyAnn’s Lingerie.

Liz Claiborne’s Len Jacaruso and Wayne Dabney. Dyane Albrecht of Mervyns.

Keri and Mark Talucci and Melissa Stolper, all of The Sak.

QVC’s Bob Romasco, Darlene Daggett and Holly Rutkowski.

Dan Phillips and Nancy Stewart of Wal-Mart. AWARD PHOTOS BY DAN D’ERRICO PHOTOS BY AWARD Nordstrom’s new tech Boosts business

Continued from page 24 reports we have fl ying around the company,” Koppel said. “[The dashboard] has been a great help.” Years ago, Nordstrom had buyers at each store, and became known for unique assortments with a point of view. Over time, as the company grew, that approach was not cost-effi cient. However, “what technology has allowed us to do is look back and target the customer,” he said. Over the next two years, the company plans to enable sku-level planning and weekly merchandise planning with software from Oracle (Retek). The company expects that the software will let it modify plans with hot trends and increase sales and margins. The company also plans to integrate its online and store inventory systems. In the meantime, Nordstrom retains fl exibility in an open- to-buy that lets merchants seek out unique vendors and jump on hot items, he said. “While we were putting all this technology in we can’t lose sight that what matters is giving merchants the fl exibility to fi nd what’s hot,” Koppel said. WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2006 27

WWD.COM

Wilsons adopts Scanners

Continued from page 24 wanted to bypass all the hand-wringing that comes with technology investment deci- sions. “I fi nd that once you make a declaration with an inability to retract it, the com- pany stops debating about ‘Should we, shouldn’t we, can we?’ and it becomes, ‘Oh my God, we’ve got to.’ “We said we were going to do it in a very short time frame and it involved a different part of the organization leading the charge, which has never happened in this company,” Searles continued. “It was the IT group that was going to lead us to this promised land and not the merchants and marketers.” IT delivered the job on time and on budget. Wilsons isn’t in the promised land just yet. Sales are down 9.8 percent year-to- date, to $398 million, and comp-store fi gures slid 12.7 percent in January, according to a statement released Feb. 2. Still, Searles said gross margin is up more than 2 Wilsons Leather stores are now equipped with wireless percentage points compared with the prior-year period. scanning to speed inventory receiving and pricing activities. “Some of that [gain] is through more opportunistic purchasing,” he said, “and some is through the effi ciency of our markdown process” enabled by Inc. product names are Institute or service Inc. in other SAS of SAS Institute registeredSAS and all or trademarks trademarks the wireless scanners, which are from Symbol Technologies and use the Microsoft Windows CE CHRIS MCCANN operating system. PRESIDENT, 1-800-FLOWERS.COM A time-and-motion study by Ernst & Young found that Wilsons’ scanner-based markdown process was 70 percent faster than its manual system. In addition, scan- ners improved markdown activity accuracy levels from 65 percent to 95 percent, Searles said. Pricing and markdown opti- mization initiatives are on the horizon this year. Wilsons is testing Expert Pricing software from JDA Software. Wilsons has such high expecta- tions for the impact on clearance that it will discontinue a 27-year tradition beginning this year. The Wilsons Leather Warehouse Sale, held at the local fairgrounds each October, cost the company $120,000 to market and generated $2 million in a week’s time. “Gone. Done,”

Searles said of the liquidation registration. and product® indicates USA Other brand names ar countries. the USA and other event that drew chartered buses of bargain hunters from out of state. ® “This was a huge undertaking,” SAS gives 1-800-FLOWERS.COM he said, “and the reason it existed is the ineffi ciency of the system: Absent scanners [caused] us to wind up with a package of prod- uct that was so bad that we had to move it out of stores into a one- time annual event to get rid of it.” THE Scanner-based receiving en- ables employees to get new mer- chandise out to the sales fl oor the same day it arrives, rather than lingering in the back room two or three days as it had be- POWER fore scanners were introduced. “Speed to fl oor is critical,” he said. “By getting it to the fl oor faster, I can get a read faster and reorder either from overseas or ® 340422US.0605 respective © 2005 SAS Institute Inc. All rights reserved. e trademarks of their companies. domestically faster.” TO KNOW Searles said the impact of how to cultivate brand loyalty through quality customer relationships. scanner technology is obvious, but the benefi ts of the project extend beyond store walls. He said giving A pioneer on the Internet, 1-800-FLOWERS.COM is now a leading multichannel retailer with more than the IT department the spotlight it never enjoyed before should in- 15 million customers. Brand loyalty – rooted in personal, one-to-one customer relationships – has helped the spire others in the organization company fl ourish. And that’s where SAS comes in. With SAS® business intelligence and analytics software, to try and make a positive impact in their own departments. 1-800-FLOWERS.COM can quickly understand customer behaviors, target products and offers, and “My message is that there predict results that strengthen its overall CRM strategy. The result? A 15 percent increase in customer are other critical aspects of our business that can make us a bet- retention. To learn more about 1-800-FLOWERS.COM and other SAS success stories that go Beyond BI™, ter company that lie outside the call 1 866 680 7120 or visit our Web site. realm of ‘merchandising knows all, does all’ focus. “This will become the fi rst of www.sas.com/fl ourish many other initiatives that make the nonmerchant part of the com- pany feel that they have a stake in the outcome of the company as op- posed to being invisible soldiers whose fate rises and falls on the skills of the merchants,” he said.

340422_SAS_1800Flowers.indd 1 6/20/05 11:14:28 AM 28 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2006 WWD.COM Polo Profi ts Spike 21% in Quarter

Continued from page one a worldwide basis now [and] the new Tokyo store will be Roger Farah its growth plans, saying it wants to expand its luxury ac- Roger Farah the fi rst time they can see Ralph Lauren product. The new cessories offerings, build a global denim business, grow store is basically the size of a mansion and it will help lift its Asian operations and open more Club Monaco stores the overall market. I think there’s a large business in Japan, over the next year. and there’s more to be done there,” the president said. “This is an exciting time for our company as we con- The company also opened a Club Monaco store in tinue to introduce new product categories and take more Hong Kong in the fall, and its success contributed to direct control of our brand. The Ralph Lauren brand has Polo’s plan to move more aggressively in fi scal year 2007 never been stronger as the demand for our luxury prod- to open more internationally licensed stores. “There’s a ucts around the world is accelerating,” said Ralph Lauren, lot of interest and the Club Monaco name plays well inter- chairman and chief executive offi cer, in a statement. nationally. We were holding back to when we were able to For the three months ended Dec. 31, net income was handle it.... We’re starting to push it out a little bit,” Farah $90.7 million, or 84 cents a diluted share, compared with said during the call. $75 million, or 72 cents, in the same year-ago quarter. The company is also expanding its luxury accessories Analysts polled by Thomson First Call were expecting EPS business. In the fall, the company launched its handbag of 76 cents. Total revenues rose 10.4 percent to $995.5 mil- line, including its Ricky bag. “We had complete sellout lion from $901.6 million, which included sales of $933.2 with our higher-priced Ricky bags,” Farah said. He ex- million, up 10.6 percent from $843.6 million, and $62.3 mil- plained that the bags were backordered during the fall, lion in licensing royalties. The sales fi gure includes a 6.2 and that the company managed to fi ll all orders in time percent increase in wholesale sales to $454 million from for Christmas. “I was really stunned by the instant suc- $427.4 million, and a 15.1 percent jump in retail sales to cess and customer reaction,” he said. $479.2 million from $416.2 million. Total retail same-store For now, the accessories business remains in the in- sales rose 7.4 percent, which refl ected a 10.2 percent in- vestment phase as Polo develops its global strategy. Belts crease at Ralph Lauren stores, a 7.1 percent rise at Club sold well during holiday, and the company has an eye- Monaco stores and a 6.3 percent gain at factory stores. wear boutique on Madison Avenue. The footwear busi- In the nine months, net income rose 47 percent to ness, which the company acquired last summer, will be $245.6 million, or $2.30 a diluted share, from $167 million, accretive in fi scal year 2008. or $1.61, in the year-ago period. Total revenues were up Jeans stores in the U.S. is a “potential retail strategy,” but In addition to acquiring the Polo Jeans business last by 15.5 percent to $2.77 billion from $2.4 billion. not until after the company has remerchandised and up- week from Jones Apparel Group, the company said it Roger Farah, president and chief operating offi cer, graded the fi t and price points of the brand. Polo already will close its Club Monaco outlets and Club Monaco said during a conference call to analysts and inves- operates a few Double R-L stores for high-end denim Caban Home stores in Canada. The company cut its tors that the company will cut back distribution of Polo apparel. There are also some Polo Jeans stores in Asia view on earnings per share for the full-year fi scal 2006 Jeans from $300 million to $200 million in sales, an effort through licensing arrangements. to between $2.80 and $2.85, compared with an earlier to get out of the off-price channel to improve the brand. Polo is gearing up for the opening of a new 22,000- forecast of between $2.85 and $2.92. “Another exciting part of the acquisition [of Polo Jeans] is square-foot fl agship in Tokyo next month, which will show- “The longer-term payoff of having the ability to quickly it allows us to really enhance our denim business through case the company’s luxury labels. The brands have had a integrate new ventures should far outweigh the immedi- multiple brands. Based on contractual issues in the past, presence in Japan for some time now, but they haven’t ate costs of implementing the processes,” wrote Jennifer that growth was limited. We expect the denim category to been as readily available, Farah said, referring in part to Black, analyst at Jennifer Black & Associates. be accretive in fi scal 2008,” he told analysts. how the brands have been merchandised in the past. For full-year fi scal 2007, the company is expecting EPS In a telephone interview, Farah said freestanding Polo “Japanese customers are buying better products on to be in the range of $3 to $3.10.

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old at 1,000 employees or less, while one in Kansas sets it at 3,000 and another in Washington sets it at 5,000. You Retailers’ Suit Targets Health Legislation are starting to talk about more than just one company. “Congress passed ERISA in order to ensure the fed- By Kristi Ellis and enacted legislation that requires all employers eral government regulates employee health plans and it with 10,000 or more employers — only Wal-Mart in that did it for a good reason,’’ Kelly continued. “It wanted to WASHINGTON — The Retail Industry Leaders Associa- state’s case — to spend as much as 8 percent of their encourage employers to provide health benefi ts. States tion fi led separate lawsuits Tuesday against government total wages paid on employee health benefi ts. and localities making different and confl icting laws dis- labor offi cials in Maryland and Suffolk County, New The legislation enacted in Suffolk County on Long courage companies from providing benefi ts.” York, seeking to overturn two laws mandating a specifi c Island in New York is directed toward retailers who sell a Jason Judd, the AFL-CIO’s Wal-Mart campaign director, level of health care coverage that it alleges illegally sin- certain percentage of groceries as part of their overall vol- said the federal government is not fi nding ways to insure gle out the retail industry, particularly Wal-Mart. ume to make health care expenditures on behalf of every 46 million to 47 million Americans, many of whom are “The brunt of these laws specifi cally falls on the re- employee at a rate of no less than $3 per hour worked. working, “so states are taking this into their own hands.” tail sector,” Sandy Kennedy, president of RILA, said RILA asserted in the suits, fi led in U.S. District Court “They’ve been facing giant Medicaid bills and it’s eat- during a conference call. “We are seeking to have these in Baltimore and in Brooklyn, that the federal Employee ing up state budgets…and at long last they are willing to misguided laws overturned for the simple fact that these Retirement Income Security Act “invalidates” state and hold giant companies like Wal-Mart accountable.” laws are unlawful and unwise.” local laws regulating employee health benefi t plans. In a statement after the Maryland vote, a Wal-Mart Retailers are concerned about a move toward man- Paul Kelly, senior vice president of government af- spokeswoman said, “There are 786,000 uninsured people dated health care coverage at the state level and are fairs at RILA, which represents mass merchants includ- in the state of Maryland and less than one-half of 1 per- battling an AFL-CIO-backed initiative to pursue legisla- ing Wal-Mart and Target, said 17 states have introduced cent work for Wal-Mart. More than three-fourths of Wal- tion in 33 states that would force employers to provide a health-mandated legislation. Mart associates have health insurance and every Wal- specifi ed level of health care coverage. “Our real concern is that the employee threshold Mart associate in Maryland, both full-time and part-time, The fi rst test came in Maryland, where the state leg- level will continue to get smaller,” Kelly said. “For ex- can become eligible for health coverage.” islature recently overrode the governor’s veto of a bill ample, a bill introduced in Rhode Island sets the thresh- — With contributions from Evan Clark Under Armour Net Up 13.5%

By Melanie Kletter © Dallas 2006 Center Market NEW YORK — Under Armour, driven by strong demand for its performance apparel and growth in licensed products, reported earnings and sales growth in its fi rst quarter as a public company. “Our fourth-quarter sales and strong earnings performance topped off an outstanding and eventful year for Under Armour,” the fi rm’s founder, chairman and president, Kevin A. Plank, said in a statement Tuesday. “The de- mand for our performance appar- el remains very strong and we are pleased that we have been able to grow our core men’s apparel busi- ness, while successfully broad- ening the product offerings our women’s and youth categories.” For the quarter ended Dec. 31, earnings rose 13.5 percent to $7 million, or 8 cents a share, over profi ts of $6.1 million, or 15 cents, in the prior-year period. Earnings per share were diluted after Under Armour issued an addi- tional 9.5 million shares in connec- tion with its November IPO, and also included a charge for debt redemption. Analysts on average were expecting 7 cents a share. Revenues for the quarter jumped 25.3 percent to $87.3 mil- lion. Women’s merchandise was a key growth element, rising 59 per- cent to $16 million in the quarter from $10.6 million in the prior- year period. In a call with analysts on Tuesday, Plank said the compa- ny will continue to add experts to its women’s team across all func- tions of the business, including sales, marketing and product. Baltimore-based Under Ar- C & BE SEEN mour has become a darling of the athletic arena with its quick as- cent over the last few years. The fi rm is best known for its tight- fitting performance tops worn by football players, but in recent years it has expanded its product What is a center but a place to be seen, to find yourself as well as what you’re seeking. array to include a wide range of ® sportswear for women, men and FashionCenterDallas. Where greatness is required and inspiration is in vogue, all year round. In March, children, as well as accessories, we’re holding Women’s & Children’s Apparel & Accessories at the same time as the Gift & Home Market. outerwear and footwear. Licensing revenue in the quar- Incredible cross-buying opportunities. Unbelievable first nods to Fall. ter gained 127 percent to $9.8 mil- 214.655.6100 or 800.325.6587 dallasmarketcenter.com lion from $4.3 million in the 2004 period. Under Armour also has been expanding its international business. For the year, earnings rose 20.8 percent to $19.8 million, or 36 cents a share, while revenues gained 37 percent to $281 million. 30 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2006

Seamstress/Tailor Samples and small production. Minimum 3 yrs. experience in designer suits/gowns. Competitive salary + benefits. Pattern Maker 1st through production, grading. Excellent sewing/fitting skills necessary. Minimum 3 yrs. experience in designer suits/gowns. Competitive salary + benefits. Fax or e-mail resumé 310-456-2922 / [email protected] Los Angeles Metropolitan Area

Want to work for a fast growing and upcoming company? Restricted Footwear needs more help in the following areas:

Our growing Los Angeles based company which focuses on Sales Rep---West Coast, Midwest: Must have at least 3 years experience the Contemporary women’s and men’s markets is looking for in sales and a strong background in Jr’s Contemporary Fashion. experienced and energetic people to fill the following new positions. Linebuilder/Designer: Must have successful history within Jr’s Contemporary FASHION DIRECTOR Industry. RETAIL SALES DIRECTOR Overview of Position: Interested applicants please Fax or Email resume to: 3 years experience minimum managing multiple retail Research and develop seasonal fashion direction for the 626. 961. 2988 or [email protected] locations including startup. Bachelors degree, strong retail utilization and execution of assortment planning, store-line sales and inventory analytical skills required. presentation, visual merchandising, advertising, and corporate product development. Preferred areas of expertise are inti- RETAIL MANAGEMENT / SALES mate apparel, jewelry, and accessories. Work with the LAS VEGAS RETAIL LOCATION merchandising organizations on vendor purchases to ensure timely fashion and color direction/registration. Work with Responsible, committed, and highly energetic retail professionals merchant organizations on finding new resources to comple- with a developed sense of contemporary style. Candidates ment our current resource structure/ assortments. Work with MENS DESIGNER with luxury goods experience and a strong customer merchandising and advertising organizations on seasonal following preferred. advertising to include: ROP, direct mail, and all major We are looking for an experienced Mens Denim Designer. promotional vehicles. Work with Special Events department Applicants should have a minimum of 5 years in Mens Denim, PRODUCTION PLANNING MANAGER on key fashion events to include: Fund-raising, Show and and be capable of developing and producing a line from Strong operational & mfg. skills to oversee production planning. segment concepts/ themes music, models, etc. start to finish. Knowledge of Far Eastern sourcing a plus. Must have 4+ yrs management exp in better manufacturing, Salary and benefits package negotiable for qualified background in planning, allocations, technical knowledge Skills Summary: applicants. and garment dye experience a plus, managing the supply, Strong organizational skills. Strong written and oral skills. planning and allocation of the production fabrics. Order Strong interpersonal skills. Ability to work with a myriad of Fax resumes in confidence to: (323)724-8089 replenishment fabrics and lead-time sensitive material and people in various areas of the store. Creative individual that Email: [email protected] addressing any potential excess situations. Bachelors Degree has the ability to work/look outside the box, without losing Required. sight of the box. Strong product knowledge, dependent on FOB responsibility. Understanding of product development PATTERN MAKER and SAMPLE SEWER and construction, a plus. Leadership skills as each individual LA office of Sportswear/Childrenswear 5 yrs experience minimum. Knowledgeable and technical in in the fashion office needs to have a command of the busi- manufacturer group is seeking: high-end fabrics, knits and wovens, garment construction, ness they are representing. Ability to travel extensively. detailed finishing and garment dye. (Domestic only) Salary is commensurate with relevant experi- National Sales Manager/ Sales Executive ence. Macy’s is an EOE, committed to a diverse and Min. 5 yrs exp & strong relationships with major retail. TRIM BUYER inclusivework environment. Excellent communication skills & self-motivation & team Please visit macysjobs.com to apply or working. 3 years experience, responsible for total trim needs from fax resumes to 415-954-6611 design to pre-production to production. Production Coordinator Min. 3 years in apparel mfg experience. Strong organizational Excellent compensation and benefits package available ability. PC knowledge and can work independently. Please e-mail resume with salary history to Please email Resume and expected salary to [email protected] [email protected]

W Y E T H B Y T O D D M A G I L L LOS ANGELES - PATTERNMAKER Fast growing high-end women’s contemporary collection seeks Patternmaker. Minimum 5 yrs. experience on Gerber. Must have strong sense of design. Ability to make first through production patterns a must. Communication skills with in-house sample sewers/cutting. Salary plus benefits. Please fax resume, attn. HR Dept. (310) 733-4402 or Email: [email protected]

Sample / Pattern Maker Sewing Pro Los Angeles Based Very exclusive Lingerie Co. seeks an exp’d. sewing professional to design, cut, and sew. F/T or P/T. Call: 310-228-1636 or Fax: 310-278-0736 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2006 31

A LA office of Sleepwear/ CASHMERE PRODUCTION Underwear/Childrenswear PRODUCTION MANAGER Exceptional Seeking a highly motivated, detail oriented, organized individual to manage NO MINIMUM manufacturer group Road/Show Reps QUICK TURNAROUND is seeking: development and production for an LA based men’s and women’s fashion !! CALL US TODAY !! National Sales Manager/ /sportswear brand. Initiate and monitor all phases of apparel and accessories Excellent Oppty LA (323) 436-3400, Attn: Emily production. Garment construction and fabric knowledge required. Strong NY (917) 691-5540, Attn: Daniel Sales Executive Better jewelry / bags / belts leadership skills to oversee a team and create/maintain schedules and E-mail: Min. 5 yrs exp & strong lines seeks reps. w/estb’d [email protected] relationships with major deadlines. Prior experience with communicating overseas is a must. contacts - majors & specialty. retail. Excellent communica- Please fax resume to: (323) 653-6083 or Email: [email protected] 3 years exp in building tion skills & self-motivation accessories accouts. & team working. High Commission Please email Resume PATTERNMAKER Principals Only Bra Foundation Patternmaker and expected salary to Cover letter w/ resume to [email protected] Los Angeles - Full Time Molding knowledge, [email protected] strong communication skills. Hourly, excellent pay. Production Asst Call Maritza (213) 626-6808 Junior Co. seeks Production Assistant with minimum 2 EURO-COMFORT yrs experience in knitwear PRATIK-Quality made in production. Must oversee all Portugal. 5th successful stages of production. Organi- season in U.S. and growing. zation, knowledge of gar- Seeking Independent ment construction, and good Rep for West Coast. communication skills a must. [email protected] Send resume to See us at Sands booth # 1154 Fax: 310-440-2535 or E-mail: [email protected]

264 W. 40 Street Design Package Brand New Showroom Ladies’ & Men’s Contemporary Sports- wear Co. is seeking Design Packages Full floor identity. 6923’ for their Spring ’07 collection. Deadline Cash For Retail Stock & Closeouts. 2nd fl gives visibility for packages will be completes by the No Lot Too Big or Too Small. from oversized windows end of March. Interested individuals Call CLOTHES-OUT: may E-mail resumes, requested package (937) 898-2975 Pristine sample rm 6 offices rewards, and included services to: TOP NEW BLDG [email protected] OFF PRICE APPAREL Call Nora 212 925-7778 x18 WANTED Including private label programs. SHOWROOM TO SHARE We indemify goods. Call Harry 212-764-4626 or Fax 212-764-4625 1407 Broadway Corner of 39th St. Please call Mrs. Stein @ 212-921-9730 PATTERNMAKER Highly Experienced Freelance • Part Time • Full Time Please call (212) 861-9650 Manufacturer Closeout PATTERNS, SAMPLES, NYC leading leather ready to wear PRODUCTIONS manufacturer is looking to sell off All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. stock as well as machinery. Additionally, Call Sherry 212-719-0622. looking to sell off a large assortment of high end, young designer ready to wear. Interested individuals or jobbers PATTERNS, SAMPLES, can enquire at: [email protected] or cell (917) 945-1886. PRODUCTIONS Full service shop to the trade. Design Hell..p! Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. Digital Arts Boot Camp Training Patterns/Samples/Production Individualized Custom Intensives Snaps, Eyelets, Covered Bottoms Any Style - Full Service Photoshop, Illustrator, Primavision Call Johnny: 212-278-0608/646-441-0950 for Design Professionals JOBBER/EXPORTER We buy better goods. All categories, Pier 22 Designs Call 212-244-1435 for details including fabrics. Immediate $$. Full service CAD/Design Studio Please call 212-279-1902 718.428.8828 [email protected] Wizards School for Fashion Receive/Inspect/Count/Pack/Ship Clean & Secure North Jersey Location Illustrator and Photoshop Piece goods..Garments.. It’s all good! Create detailed flats, trims, weaves, 8th Ave #555 24/7 Attendant Perfect for Importers/Jobbers patterns etc. Fabrics into flats. Short- Call Tom at 201-945-2727 cuts, fast learning. Private classes. Beautifully Renovated, light, window Admin Since 1967 offices. 870- 7200 sq ft Call Professor Atkinson: 718-222-0421 Tech Design Production Asst Owner 212-695-0005 Or 718-387-0500 W-I-N-S-T-O-N SHANGHAI MFR. NY-based Women’s Apparel Im- OFFICE FOR RENT / $850 per month Exp’d in better / designer evening porter seeks a person who can APPAREL STAFFING W. 39th & Ave. of Americas. Full Service wear. Samples and productions of DESIGN * SALES * MERCH 24hr building. Month to month OK. any styles. Two thumbs up services. sketch tops, pants, skirts, jackets ADMIN * TECH * PRODUCTION PLEASE CALL: 212-719-9688 Call Mr. Ping at (212) 980-3515 and dresses, issue initial size (212)557-5000 F: (212)986-8437 spec’s, measure garments, issue Specialty US Mfr. fit comments /updates, communi- Seeks New & Est’d. Designer SAMPLE SALE cate with overseas factories and for Denim & Fashion good understanding of pattern- PLATINUM INT’L. Provides full/partial making and garment construction. package development in El Paso, TX Randi Rahm, Sm. - Lg. runs avail. • Master patterns [email protected] 1st fit & wash approval • grading • cutting Red Carpet samples • production/shipping services APPAREL JOBS Call or E-mail Gia at: Designer to the Stars! Missy Private Label Sales $$$Open 917.520.0057 / [email protected] CASHMERE PROD’N - NO MINIMUM Up to 75% off ! ACCOUNTANT Jr Contemp Sortswear Sales $$$Open QUICK TURNAROUND Med size apparel company located in Merchandiser Missy Dresses $$$Open 1407 BROADWAY To be a star, you must Sales Exec Jr Denim $$$Open SHOWROOMS/OFFICES !! CALL US TODAY !! NYC seeks Staff Accountant. Bank LA (323) 436-3400, Attn: Emily dress like a star! Reconcilliation, 807 shipment recording, Merchandise Planner (Mass Mkt) To$90K TREBOR MGMT Sourcing (NJ) Home Fabrics $$$Open Bob Forman 212-944-6094 x 314 NY (917) 691-5540, Attn: Daniel Walk-ins welcome or wire transfer, General Ledger entries, E-mail: [email protected] Account reconcilliations, special projects. [email protected] Schedule an appointment BS in accounting w/ 2 yrs of experience req’d. For Space in Garment Center to get priority treatment Email: [email protected] or Helmsley-Spear, Inc. Cutting & Sewing Factory Call: 609. 209. 0420 212-880-0414 50 MACHINES American owned & American supervised During Fashion Week Accounting ASSISTANT PROFESSOR in Guatemala. All compliances met. Big Mon - Friday 10 am - 5 PM Design & Merchandising Program Search For Space In Garment Center or small lots. Sportswear & active wear. Call: 212-869-2296 NICKY HILTON IS DREXEL UNIVERSITY Showroom/Office/Retail - no fee Nylon • Lycra • Cotton • Knit Seeking an individual with 5+ years www.midcomre.com Call: 201-858-3232 / Fax: 201-437-5556 EXPANDING of retail management and/or product Or Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 E-mail: [email protected] development experience for a teaching Accounts Receivable &research position starting Fall 2006. N.Y.C. Apparel Co. seeks an exp’d. A/R Advanced Degree preferred. Accountant with knowledge of factoring, Please send letter and CV to: order processing, approvals, communica- Roberta H. Gruber tions w/customers, invoicing cash appli- 3201 Chestnut Street, Investor / Partner cations, credit, collection, charge backs Philadelphia PA 19104 With infrastructure for known gold range etc. with specialty retailers. Must be See full job description at: designer/pttrnmkr. team w/loyal cus- computer literate, organized, and a self www.drexel.edu/comad/employment tomer base. Italian made. 201-969-1912 starter. E-mail resume w/req’d. salary to: Drexel is an EO/AA Employer [email protected] 32 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2006

TECH DESIGNERS Industry Leader in Denim Apparel has two openings for technical designers: One senior (5 years+) and one entry level position. Skills required: Knowledge of specs, patterns, construction (denim experience preferred). Computer skills: Word, Excel a must, Retail-Link a +. Please email Resumes to: [email protected] CREDIT MANAGER Midtown contemporary designer co. seeks an A/R professional with 5 yrs. exp. in collections dealing primarily with a specialty store base. Must have excellent communication & computer skills. E-mail resume w/ salary req’s to: [email protected]

Design Assistant Designer Fast growing missy company seeks well organized and highly motivated assistant designer. Responsibilities include spec requests, presentation boards, and flat technical sketching on Micrografx. E-mail resume to: [email protected]

Design Director Seeking design directors, men’s and women’s, to guide the evolution of a Asst to VP of Prod’n venerable European designer brand Westchester based Sportswear Mfg. based in Japan. Position requires 2 visits seeks indiv w/ knit/woven experience. CAD Coordinator and per season to Tokyo, 1 per season to DESIGNERS Person must have strong organizational Website Administration Europe. Product is approximately 100 Better Sportswear/Private Label skills and knowledge of production. garment sketches plus seasonal concept Company looking for the following: Daily correspondence w/ factories & 30 year old private label fashion retail chain seeks FIT or similar college grad per season. Please submit resumes Assistant Knit Designer - Sweater cut customers as you follow production, with one page of examples to: &sewasst w/1-3 yrs exp. Knowledge of development and costing. Please fax of related studies. Will train. Must speak/read/write/type Chinese and be [email protected] both is a plus. Responsibilities include your resume to 914-328-7941 or E-mail all aspects of design. Must be motivat- [email protected] computer literate & proficient in Photoshop & Illustrator. Knowledge of ed, organized, self starter w/excellent sketching & computer skills. Bookkeeper textile printing a plus. E-mail resume to: D E S I G N E R [email protected] Established Children’s Wear Company Associate Woven Designer -Great looking for an experienced designer opportunity to be involved in all phases Assistant Bookkeeper for girls 4-16. Must be innovative, self- of line development including concepts, European fashion house seeks experi- motivated, detail oriented. Also able fabric/trim sourcing, sketching. Should enced individual. Garment industry CAD DESIGNER-TEXTILE to work with overseas suppliers and be motivated, self starting with a background a plus. Must have knowl- Home textile firm seeks CAD Designer willing to travel. sophisticated style sense. Excellent flat edge of accounting software, Excel, w/min 2 yrs exp. Must be highly crea- Please Fax: 212-465-1085 sketching a must. Min 2-4 yrs exp. Word, and EDI. Salary commensurate tive, adaptable and organized with E-mail resume with experience. E-mail/fax resume to: knowledge of textile design. Must be [email protected] proficient in Adobe Photoshop & Illus- Designer- Girls & Boys [email protected] trator w / knowledge of Pointcarre and Well est’d & fast growing childrens co. Punto a plus. Send resume to Suzanna: seeks highly qualified individual to Designer - Sweaters Fax: (212) 302-8021 fax 212-213-1683 / [email protected] head our design dept. must be exp’d in all phases of design including knowl- (Freelance Position) edge of specs. Photoshop & Illustrator For ladies’ private label mfr. Must be Buyer & Inventory a must. Great opportunity. exp’d and have technical knowledge to Fax resume to: 212-302-2669 develop product lines for major retailers. Controller Colorist/Production Asst Fax resume to Joann H: 917.510.9778 E-commerce swimwear retailer seek- Better women’s sptswr co. seeks candi- ing buyer and inventory controller in date w / 2-4 yrs exp w/ strong sense of Piscataway, NJ. Some exp required. color & textile knowledge. Garment DESIGNER construction a plus. Handle approval DESIGNER E-mail resumes to: Hot new designer woman’s sportswear [email protected] of fabrics, lab dips, print strike-offs Sweaters/Knits and trims. Maintain color trim & fabric brand that is New York based is seeking Designer with at least 4 years design- NY based contemporary sweater co. database. Communicate with overseas seeks someone with a creative mind, &domestic vendors. Must have excel- ing high end clothing to design for this CAD ARTIST - Freelance brand that is positioned on designer exc. color sense, exc. technical and com- Midtown Apparel Co. seeks a FREE- lent computer and organizational munication skills, trend setter, strong skills. Good benefits pkg. Pls email floor of major Dept. stores. Please E- LANCE CAD artist to work in-house. mail resume to: [email protected] design direction, & a true team player. Main focus will be Children’s Sportswear; resume: [email protected] Please fax resume to: 413-431-6484 creating allover prints, screenprint graphics, etc. Must be exp’d. in Illustrator/ DESIGNER Photoshop on the MAC. To set up an Missy Sportswear company seeks a DESIGNER interview, E-mail: [email protected] Cost Technician Designer.Ability to spot trends/ TECHNICAL PRODUCTION Domestic/Import Sportswear Production. prints and adapt them to the missy 3yrs.experience required for women’s Computer costing, knowledge of produc- market. Strong leader, able to outerwear mfr. Must be computer literate CAD ASSISTANT tion software, experienced in calculat- coordinate CAD artists and design in Illustrator, Adobe & Excel. PDM a $40K + Benefits ing yields and determining factory team. Team player needed with good PLUS! Technical Drawings, Fit, Make Asian fabric mfr. seeks Asst. CAD labors required. Knowledge of import organizational skills. production paks with all follow-up to Designer. 2+ yrs. exp. in apparel yarn- duties, requirements, and freight rates Please send resume-Attn: Loretta: ship date. Communicate overseas. dye & print. Woven training & Point Carre necessary. Great benefits. Fax: 212-354-1300 or email: Please fax resume to: (212) 719-5547 or skills req’d. Fax resume (212) 354-9172 Fax resume to: 212-239-7332 [email protected] E-mail: [email protected] WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2006 33

FENDI NORTH AMERICA PROJECT MANAGER seeks highly motivated Store Planning Project Mgr in our Manhattan corporate office. Will act as point person for all construction consultants & architects, execute corporate specifications and work plans, ensure store concept is applied properly and review quality of construction. Must have Bachelor’s degree in Architecture or related Engineering field, 3-5 yrs retail exp at luxury int’l company, and knowledge of electrical & mechanical systems. Excellent computer, analytical and project mgmt skills, strong communication and presentation skills req’d. Position requires up to 80% travel. Excellent comp/benefits package, int’l, team-oriented setting with career growth opps. E-mail resume to: careers@us.-fashion.com. EOE M/F/D/V www.lvmh.com

* JOBS *JOBS *JOBS * *Artists: N/I/T-Girl-Boy-Jr.-Young Men FASHION DESIGNER *Designer-Assists-assoc boy-girl-jr-missy NYC Showroom looking for a designer *Designer Assist-Mens 6-12 months exp with min 5 yrs exp working with Denim *Designer Assoc. Jr/Girls C/S & Sweaters and Denim Related Fabrics in the *Designer Head 4/16 Jr Driven Denim Contemporary/Jr Market. Must be *Designer Layette-Tod Socks-Hats-Gloves organized and able to put together *Designer 2-6X Denim Jr Driven detailed packages for Overseas Suppliers. *Patternmaker 1st - Gerber Computer Also must have strong communication *Production Assistants and Coordinators MERCHANDISER skills and a background in Technical *Production coords - bilingual Chinese Design. Design Software experience is *Sales Assistants-Showroom Exp $ HI Juniors/Tween top licensee amust.Normal Hours and Reg trips *Sourcing Director Jr/Girls Denim $ HI is seeking head Merchandiser overseas are required. Email Resume *Technical Designers & Assistants to lead & direct the design to: [email protected] *Technical Designer N-I-T Walmart CTL team. Candidate must have Call (212) 643-8090; fax 643-8127 (agcy) keen eye for trends and Find the perfect fit. possess excellent computer In over 100 countries throughout the world, Levi Strauss & Co.’s brands Marker Grader and managerial skills. Ability have become legendary for fitting into Experienced Marker Grader, Gerber to control the product devel- people’s lives in a most comfortable System. Immediate opening for the opment process to adhere way. How would working at Levi right person. Brooklyn location. Strauss & Co. fit into your life? Is a Call Jerry 718-499-4833 to the season calendar a commitment to excellence your style? Fax resume 718-499-4901 must. Great Company, & Does being on a team of high achiev- full benefits. ers who constantly strive to innovate FABRIC MANAGER feel right to you? If so, get in touch Qualified candidates for GARMENT MANUFACTURER with us today about these excellent please fax resume to: Must be computer literate and experi- opportunities. enced in the maintenance of fabric (212) 658-9153 inventory and cutting records from the €Sr Account Executive-NY reference - MDSEWWD receiving of fabric through the shipping €Sr Account Planner-NY of cutwork. Must be able to maintain €Designers-SF an accurate and detailed up-to-date €Merchandising-SF Marketing Associate DESIGNER inventory of surplus piece goods. €Demand Planners-SF Wehave an incredible opportunity for a Position will also oversee the fabric €Fabric Finish Developers-SF marketing associate who is energetic, We are looking for a creative & talented €Sr Project Managers-SF junior cut & sew knits designer to join quality control department. Competitive passionate & able to work in fast paced salary and benefits offered. Qualified envrn’t. Email: [email protected] our dynamic company. Must be a team Levi Strauss & Co. is one of the world’s player with a proven success in junior candidates should forward a resume w/ salary requirements to 212-239-7332. largest brand-name apparel marketers. design, both import & domestic. Min 7 There is no other company with a com- years experience. Lectra a plus. parable global presence in the jeans Please fax resume to: 646-375-4368 and casual pants markets. Our market FABULOUS FREELANCE JOBS!!!! leading apparel products are sold un- Positions start immediately! der the Levi’s®, Dockers® and Levi Materials Coordinator Sweater Designers Strauss Signature™ brands. As Candidate must have 3-5 yrs exp. Sales- Hats an employer, we recognize and reward Excel computer skills a must, excellent Production individualism and offer outstanding organizational skills, experience with Tech Designers compensation and benefit programs. tracking overseas shipments, Strong Director/A.E.’s/Mens 80 -120K Send resumes ASAP!!! verbal/written communication skills. Outlet Buyer 80-100K Email: [email protected] Find out more about our career Responsibilities will include inventory Planners 80-100K opportunities and apply online at control of fabric + leather, daily comm. Tech Designers-All Areas 70-100K www.levistrauss.com/careers. w/ overseas vendors, tracking l/dips, Executive Asst/High End 50-60K EOE and follow up on sample orders. Many other oppty’s TEMP & PERM Only experienced need apply. Fax: 212-986-7708 Please email resume to GRADER [email protected] Email: [email protected] Manual grader w/ experience for FASHION CAREER OPPORTUNITIES Designer Sportswear. Must also be ERIC JAVITS INC. Ileen Raskin, Apparel 212-213-6381 capable of cutting. Call 212-869-8211 PROTOTYPE PATTERN Nancy Bottali, Accessories 212-213-6386 MERCHANDISERS MAKER-HANDBAGS Ed Kret, Textiles/Apparel 212-213-6384 * Sleepwear/Intimates-Sales exp 100K+ Must be able to create prototype [email protected] HANDBAG SKETCHER * Jr Sweaters-Have design exp 100K+ samples from sketches and designer Hdbag exp. a must. Clear sketching, good E-mail: [email protected] instructions, be able to resolve www.raskinexecsearch.com sense of proportion. Fun Office, No KARLYN FASHION RECRUITERS construction problems. Must speak, Travel.Email: [email protected] read and write in English. Min. 7 yrs exp req. in product development for Import Coord $50-60K. Current exp in NEW JERSEY RELO high-end handbags. Pls email resume to: compliance with U.S. customs regs. Classify garments under HTSUS. ** ALLOCATOR $35-50K [email protected] ** IMPORT COORD $40-45K or fax it to 718-482-8357 Harmonize tariff scheds of U.S. customs regs. Call 973-564-9236 AGCY [email protected] 212-947-3400 34 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2006

Akademiks Our growing men’s and women’s apparel company FABRIC RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT has career opportunities available: MANAGER Account Executive, for our accessories division with 2-3 years sales experience selling specialty stores, position A key member within the Intimate Apparel Sourcing team based in our New York office. Travel necessary as well as a key collaborator with merchandising, creative design, technical design, sales and sourcing; this position is Production Coordinator, person with 2-3 years production responsible for and/or participates in: Cole Haan is a global lifestyle brand that defines American experience working with overseas vendors. Must be style, beauty and luxury. We have a passion for quality in our computer proficient and detail oriented. • Development of production and sourcing strategies product, our performance, our experience -- and our people. • Streamlining processes for QA testing and packages Production Assistant, needs to have 5-7 years working • Bulk production approvals with Hong Kong offices with overseas vendors. Must be extremely organized and RETAIL MERCHANDISING MANAGER detail oriented with great work ethic. • Developing and executing raw materials score card Women’s Accessories • Establishing raw materials vendor partnerships; facilitate Assistant Retail Planner,individual with 1-2 years experience identifying key fabric trends, pricing and serviceability Manage and develop the women’s accessories business for in retail buying or sales planning. Knowledge in retail • Designating key component suppliers to establish a VMI in Cole Haan Retail. Areas of focus include managing the math, proficient in excel and strong analytical skills necessary. the sewing room OTB, clear communication with interdepartmental teams on • Resolving QA and/or fit issues due to raw material problems the consumer’s point of view, reacting to appropriate fashion Send resume to HR at 212-563-0581 • Implement the use of WEB-PDM color tracking trends, collaborating with corp. merchandising and product Interested candidates must satisfy the following requirements development, and partnering with storeline field to drive for their experience and skills to be considered: sales results. Qualified candidate should have a four year degree and at least five years of direct experience in • Min. 5+yrs of fabric R&D work exp. within intimate apparel handbag merchandising/buying. Knowledge of accessories •In-depth technical skill relating to fabric content, and retail industry is required. Knowledge of the product capabilities, yield and durability development process is helpful. Administrative Assistant to division President in highly • Forward thinking, future fabric technological developments To apply to for this position please forward your resume to: active wholesale business. Excellent learning and and uses while addressing day-to-day operations growth opportunity. • Excellent domestic and international interpersonal, [email protected] or fax to: (207) 846-3477 commnication and facilitation skills Please visit colehaan.com for information • Responsibilities include coordinating projects, daily • Proficiency with MS Office applications and WED-PDM; about Cole Haan products. activities, reporting, etc. other systems a plus We are an equal opportunity employer. • Requirements include excellent organizational skills • Demonstrated initiative, motivation & drive to achieve results M/F/D/V • Team coaching and development to achieve results plus knowledge of Microsoft office, and 2+ years Email your resume to: [email protected] experience assisting a top level executive. or fax your resume to (212) 287-8257. ASSISTANT BabyPhat Girls Warnaco Inc offers competitive salaries and benefits along Please fax resumes to Brendan at 212.764.6912 with a team oriented environment. DESIGNER Needed: Highly moti- We are an equal opportunity employer. M/F/D/V Outerwear vated infants – teens Great Opportunity Assistant Designer Head Designer & Assistant Designer Graphic Artists. Ideal Costume Jewelry Women’s private label Import Specialist Sportswear sportswear company seeks Assistant Designer candidates will be Designers CHF Industries, Inc., a leader in textile home furnishings, has cutting edge Girls Rapidly growing costume an asst. in all aspects of an immediate opening in its New York office for an Import Street/Contemporary design designers with urban jewelry co. seeks 1 to 2 exp. design. Creative, detail ori- Specialist. Minimum of 4 to 6 years experience. Extensive team is looking for assis- designers w/costume jewelry ented with proficiency in import experience required. Candidate will initiate purchase tant designers. Photoshop, experience; 4-6 years experience. Must have Photoshop, Illustrator & Excel. orders, communicate with overseas vendors & suppliers, and Illustrator, and/or Corel industry exp; broad creative ability to Please fax resume to: follow-up on sample and production deliveries. Excellent skills in PC/Mac a must. PhotoShop & Illustra- interpret trends from high (212) 730-2259 verbal & written communication skills (bi-lingual helpful), Dedicated, Detail Oriented, tor a must! end to mass retailers. organization & attention to detail required. Strong computer Eager To Learn, Innovative, Good Benefits and Pay. skills, including Excel, required. Able to work under pressure . Creative, Energetic and Forward resume to: Please email resumes to Team Players, 2-3 years [email protected] [email protected] or fax to Production Coordinator Send resume including recent salary history to experience required. [email protected] or fax to 704-522-4704 with 310.858.2238. NYC based Mfr./Importer of Men’s "Import" in the subject line. Fax or email resume to: Product Services & Ladies’ branded sportswear seeks (212) 302-5407 Director STYLECAREERS.COM an energetic, well organized, detail [email protected] Associate Designer - Wovens oriented team player with at least New Jersey based Ladies Apparel Patternmaker - Sportswear OPERATIONS MGR Specialty Store seeks a talented, PR Mgr - Footwear 2-3 years experience. Must have (APPAREL / FABRIC) Production Assistant experienced, responsible individual to Buyer - Handbags/RTW strong computer & communication Operations and Production MGR to Fast paced womenswear manufacturer oversee and manage a product service VP of Design – Womens oversee apparel/fabric businesses, with seeks production asst to prepare tech team which handles woven tops and Planner - Home skills. Please E-mail all resumes to: 3+ yrs exp. Manage internal auditing / packages to factories and to cost bottoms, knit and sweater product. A Sr Tech Designer - Outerwear [email protected] reports, QC, shipping, purchasing, garments. Must be very thorough and complete technical understanding of Product Line Mgr - Youth sourcing. Computer experience and detail oriented. Must have min 1 yr Production Coordinators garment construction and design of Design Mgr - Accessories communication skills are a must. import exp and be computer literate. Global intimate apparel company in these product lines is a must. Must be [email protected] Located in Woodbury, LI. Excellent Fax resume to 212-302-3318. Secaucus is looking for 2 strong & knowledgeable in PDM. Be able to compensation Package and Growth detail oriented people w/great PC skills. communicate with manufactures as Potential. E-mail resume to: PRODUCTION Asst-1+ yr exp doing Responsible for overseas ordering, well as merchandising staff. Understand Tailor Wanted [email protected] import prod from Orient/pref Chinese tracking shipments & garment pricing. test reports, computer software, and High end specialty retailer seeking speaking/Excel/Word nec. $35-40K Must have at least 3 yrs exp in production. have a sense of priority. Please fax men’s/women’s detail oriented tailor. Les Richards Agcy Call (212)221-0870 Excellent salary & benefits package. EOE. resume in confidence to 201-866-0387 Applicant must have a minimum of 3 Please email or fax resume to: years industry experience. Please fax V. P., MARKETING Prodn Assist/Coord $35-55K E: [email protected] PUBLIC RELATIONS resume to 212-220-8647 attn: A. Santos. Strong Math & PC. Cutting Tickets F: 201-392-9608 Kayser-Roth Corporation, manufacturer Time ’n Action. Factory Exp A+ Production Asst/Coord and marketer of No nonsense and Hue [email protected] 212-947-3400 Private Label Children’s wear importer Teacher / Fashion legwear and intimate apparel, is seeks detailed & exp’d asst to commu- PRODUCTION ESTIMATOR Fashion School seeks teachers for seeking a V. P. of Marketing in our Product Developement nicate w/overseas factories. Knowledge Develop womens’ clothing line for CAD, U4ia, Prints, Flats Hand Draw- Greensboro, NC hdqtrs. Position is of CTL, MTL lab testing requirements. following season & make sample ing, Knits, Sewing, Draping, Pattern responsible for marketing leadership, EXCITING OPPORTUNITY Excel, Word, AS400 a must. Please fax package. Communicate w/customers Making. College Degree must. direction, development and promotion A leading licensed and branded resume to: 212-868-3167 Attn: Tess Email: [email protected] of initiatives within the mktg area and who are placing new orders. MA in We are looking to expand our PR Dept. girl’s dress company seeks a Product fashion Merch or Fash. Design or BA Fax: 212-244-8682 in partnership with other functional Development Manager Responsibilities The candidate must have at least 2 yrs. areas. Candidate must have 15-20 yrs in Fashion Merch or Fash. Design + 5 experience and be able to work in a include Asia sourcing, product yrs exp. & Fluency in Korean req’d. of successful consumer marketing development and orchestrating raw Production Asst fast paced environment. Knowledge of Technical Design Asst. experience with branded products, Ladies dress importer on 7th Ave seeks Send res. to White Jade Apparel, 499 Photoshop is a +. Pls. forward resume: materials development (from conception 7th Ave. 2 Fl., North, NY, NY 10018 MUST have experience in technical preferably apparel/legwear. through production) for complex a detailed-oriented individual with 2+ E-mail: [email protected] sweater design. Please fax resume, years experience to assist production or Fax: (212) 582-6388 Weneed an impactful team leader programs. Some travel necessary and Attn. Megan (212) 719-0392 with proven exp. in creating and fluency in Mandarin preferred. Looking area. Responsibilities include create/ maintain PO, tracking packages & implementing new strategies/ideas/ for a top performer who want to grow Production Manager Quality Control / Knits products and driving profitability. Ideal with us. A superior track record is deliveries, daily communication with High-end swimwear brand in NYC is Technical Designer overseas vendors. Must be computer L.I.C. area. Must have extensive knowl. Children’s wear co seeks Tech Designer candidate will have superior strategic mandatory. Send resume in confidence to: seeking a Production Mgr. Candidates planning, leadership, communication [email protected] literate, proficient in Excel. of knit garment construction. Ability w/ patternmaking skills. 1st fit sample will be responsible for processes relating to do quality & spec audits. 5 years exp thru production approval. Pattern and presentation skills. Must have E-mail resume to to product development. Exp. w/ over- [email protected] a must. Good salary & benefits. making, measuring and garment con- substantial knowledge of retail business, seas mills & factories a +. Salary based Please fax resume to 212-947-1246 struction req’d. Communicate w/ over- strong overall business knowledge, on exp. Fax resume to: (425) 732-8131 seas factories. Bi-lingual in Chinese and be an effective participant on RETAIL A+. Travel required. Fax resume: cross-functional senior management Production Asst Sales Dir/Retail exp/Hi-end jewelry $150 k+ 212-842-4040 Attn: Diane team. Candidate must successfully Production and manage and work with remote personnel. Major Outerwear Apparel Mfr. based Production Manager Business Mgr/Hi-end children’s wear $70k+ out of Morris County, NJ seeks focused, FAX: 212-481-4086 e-mail: [email protected] Travel required. Undergraduate degree Design Manager flexible and motivated self-starter. Women’s designer apparel company TECHNICAL DESIGNER required; MBA strongly preferred. EOE. Small, high end women’s clothing Candidate must have excellent commu- seeks a self motivated, career oriented Ladies apparel company seeking detail designer looking for highly organized individual. Ideal candidate must possess oriented, organized and experienced Submit resume and cover letter with nication skillsandproficiency in MS SAMPLEMAKER salary requirements to: Production Manager w/ design exp to Outlook, Word, & Excel. Consider aminimum of 10 yrs experience with (min. 2 yrs)techdesigner to assist the work with garments from design to strong organizational, technical and Well estb’d Couture Co. seeks highly skilled entry-level college graduate. Excellent exp’d sewers/tailors for a stable/secure Sr. tech designer in every aspect with Kayser-Roth Corporation production. Technical fitting skills, benefits with op pty for growth. Pls fax leadership skills. Domestic production strong communication skills. Must be Lisa Howell-Furdas quality control, spec sheets, costing, w/ some off shore a plus. Great oppty! position. Knowledge of cutting a plus. resume: Attn: Theresa 973-328-8681 Oppty for growth. Please call 212-869-2296 able to follow through from development 102 Corporate Center Blvd. fashion sketching & sourcing knowl- Send resumes to: to production. Pattern making knowl- Greensboro, NC 27408 edge all important. Experience w/ non- [email protected] edge is a plus. FAX (336) 547-4634 domestic factories a plus. Job includes Sewing Instruction Writer Please Fax resume to Adriana at [email protected] 401K plan as well as yearly bonus plan. PRODUCTION COORDINATOR Home sewing co. seeks a technical 212-730-2674 Send resume attn: Kim 212-396-2988 Detail-oriented,analytical person needed Production/Merch Mgr sewing instruction writer w/ education/ to process orders & track production. Established mfr seeks detail oriented background in garment, craft and TECHNICAL DESIGNER Bra exp. preferred. Email/ Fax LUNAIRE at: candidate w/min 5 yrs exp. Oversee home dec sewing. Must be able to [email protected] or 212-725-0089 write "how to sew" instructions for Major better womens sportswear mfr Production Assistant production from design devel to ship- seeks seasoned pro w/ min 7 yrs exp in ping. Ability to communicate w/ design same on site in NY office. Home Eco- Contemporary Knitwear/Woven Co. seeks nomics Degree or comparable exp establishing fit, spec & construction exp’d., multi-tasking individual w/good team, retail buyers and overseas office. guidelines, communicating w/ retail Strong fabric & garment construction desired. Knowledge of sewing req’d . computer skills to communicate with Production Coordinator/ Computer knowledge a plus. Excel- clients & overseas factories, managing domestic sample room and overseas knowledge. Domestic and overseas all fit approval & tech issues. Must have Manager travel req’d. Great salary and growth lent benefits. Send resume to: factories. Fax resume to: 212-655-5431 Simplicity Pattern Co. computer skills in Excel & Acrobat. 10 yrs. exp’d candidate will be respon- potential. Fax resume 212-840-8338 Knldge of pattern making & PDM a plus. sible for tracking all pre-production 2 Park Avenue 12th Floor NY, NY 10016 Pls fax resume & salary history to: activities. Must possess strong com- 212-239-1610 PRODUCTION munication skills - written & oral, Attn: Human Resources or ASSISTANT strong computer skills - Excel & Access, PRODUCTION email: [email protected] Fast paced designer womenswear merchandising related or product * Production Mgr $95-$125K Bet Contemp Runway Mfr. Sourcing SLS - KIDSWEAR TO 40K TECHNICAL DESIGNERS manufacturer seeking production development field strongly preferred. * TD Menswear-Better Designer $80-85K assistant for entry level position. Must have ability to prioritize tasks, be & Costing. Spervse Staff. Time/Act Large co seeks sharp, organized * Product Devel-Knits/Wovens $60-65K individ for showroom, tri-state area * TD Bet Bridge Runway Dsgner $75-90K Candidate must be very organized and detail oriented and work within a team * TD Kids/Boyswear $70K have ability to be multi tasked. Bilingual environment. Bilingual in Mandarin or * Sweater Prodn-Bet Designer $55-75K accounts: 2 years experience required. * Coster-Newborn/Girl Size 16 $50K-60K * TD Sweater-Many Opptys $55-$100K Mandarin or Cantonese a plus. Cantonese a plus. E-mail resume to: A.D. FORMAN ASSOC. * Spec Tech Wovens $35-$55K Please fax resumes to : 212-868-8885 [email protected] * Allocation Assist-Bet Sprtswr $35K [email protected] or 212-947-3400 450 7th AVE (AGCY) 268-6123 [email protected] 212-947-3400 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2006 35

Allen B. / A.B.S. By Allen Schwartz Senior Account Executive Allen B., a leader in contemporary/couture jeans, and casual lifestyle clothing has an incredible opportunity for an account executive with a strong sales ability to drive sales and build businesses. This person should have established relationships with high end contemporary/designer specialty and department stores. All replies kept confidential. Email: [email protected]

SALES REP Aggressive womens apparel company SALES EXECUTIVE specializing in designed knit sweaters Be a part of winning team at Chetta B! and novelty tees has an exciting oppor- Better/Bridge 7th Ave. dress company tunity available in our NY showroom. seeks experienced (3-5 yrs) person. Must have 3-5 years experience with Travel a must. Account base needed contacts in specialty stores. Salary, plus maintaining existing accounts. incentives, and/or commission. Email only - no phone calls please @ Please fax resume Attn: Ronen [email protected] -subject (954) 965-4443 reading: VP Sales. All resumes and salary req’s held in strict confidence. Senior Sales Executive Wanted Leading Knit & Denim Mfr. with clients from major U.S. brand names to retail stores seeks an experienced salesper- son. Must have strong contact with SALES EXECUTIVE major dept./chain stores. We offer com- Contemporary Designer Women’s petitive salary plus profit sharing plan. Collection Has an Exciting Oppty for Please Fax / E-mail resume and salary this Ideal Individual Who will Work w/ history to: 212-947-1169 Specialty Retailers as well as Major [email protected] Accts. 5+ yrs of Related Exp a Must. In Addition This Individual Should Have Showroom Sales Asst $40K Excellent Analytical/Communication Skills. Will be customer focused and working Fax 212-354-0999 or e-mail with accounts. Will also have direct [email protected] contact with buyers and sales reps. Responsible for generating reports, sampling, close out lists. Email resumes as a Microsoft word attachment to: S A L E S [email protected] Fast Growing Ladies Junior Jeanswear Co. seeking Sales person w/ established Sportswear/Activewear contacts, specialty & dept. stores nation- Fast growing sportswear / activewear wide. Must have strong relationship w/ co. seeks salesperson. Must have accts, organized, & hard working. Please strong relationships w/ dept & mid tier Fax or Email resume: 212-629-3506 stores. Fax resume to 1-866-281-4962. [email protected] PERSONAL SHOPPER Women’s Fashion Clothing Company VP of SALES seeks a personal shopper with a strong Market leader seeks an expert sales sales background and super service expe- SALES: Promotional Bags professional to lead its sales team. Our Well Established handbag designer rience. Must have excellent phone and salespeople are accomplished industry writing skills. Also must have computer needs epxperienced sales professional leaders and merchants who will require w/strong contacts in beauty/ fashion to exp. and laptop to maintain customer nothing short of the best to lead them. book and correspondence. Base and com- Sales Director manage sales in promotional & dis- Must have merchandising expertise count handbag market. mission as sales exceed goals. Sales Professionals Business Consulting and a reputation for performance and Email Resume to: [email protected] ITALIAN LINGERIE, SWIMWEAR & Great compensation. integrity. Confidentiality Assured. Rachel Riley the Featured designer in Position req a high-level of planning READY-TO-WEAR SALES REP Send Resume: [email protected] this month’s Vogue is currently look- High end Fashion distributor, located Fax: 732-280-6190 & leading delivery of business Email: [email protected] ing for enthusiastic sales professionals in Miami Beach, has position open for Sales Associate for her flagship Madison Avenue store. consulting solutions. Leadership a sophisticated sales representative for Luxury lingerie & swimwear co. seeks Please fax resume w/ references 212- role in developing client relationships the Latin American market. High-end F/T, P/T experienced retail associate 534-7277 or [email protected] Italian lingerie, swimwear, and ready- for its NY and Palm Beach, FL loca- & new business. Will manage team to-wear. Must have some fashion sales tions. Fax resume to 212-807-7209. of 8-15. Will: identify, develop & experience in these markets, travel, be manage client opportunities, lead computer literate, great client services, shipping follow up and showroom sales efforts w/ existing & prospec- presentations. Salary and commission. tive clients, generate / manage sales Starting position w/ good opportunity & revenue, direct & manage day- to grow. Send resume to: to-day business & technical aspects [email protected] of client projects. Fashion/ Retail bkgrd a must. Relo for poss. for Luxury Boys Apparel Independent Sales Reps right candidate. Hickey Freeman, America’s premier Please Email Resumes to: apparel brand is seeking independent Administration/Finance sales representatives for its’ boys division. ARE YOU LOOKING FOR A ROAD REP? Email: [email protected] Mandarin/Cantonese/English fluency, Qualified individuals should possess Estd reps w/ 30 yrs exp currently seeking BS degree in Business Management exp. in the luxury children’s mkt. and additional contemp betterwear collections. seeks position in Administrative, can have non-competitive lines. High ATL - SE (RICK & SARAH MILLER) Financial, Supply Chain Logistics, commission opportunity available in Atrium Location 9th Fl. Call (404) 525-1707 Customer Service or Marketing Dept. numerous territories. Excellent com- Work experience at Kingfisher Asia munication and computer skills required. Hong Kong. Account Executive - E-mail resume to: Contact: Ka Kin Li at (954) 864-0080 [email protected] Fashion & Apparel or Fax: (585) 467-1315 Will sell projects in large accounts Exp’d Embellishment Designer using various combinations of Skilled, Creative & Artistic Luxury Men’s Collection Beading, Embroidery, Applique Lectra’s very broad product & Independent Sales Reps Leather Handbags Screenprint & Fashion Illustration services portfolio. The position Hickey Freeman, a luxury goods man- SALES AGENTS Call 212-924-6192 also includes establishing account ufacturer seeks motivated and growth Indian supplier of leather garments, plans, documenting potentials oriented independent sales representatives bags & accessories seeks Sales Agents for its’ "hickey" collection. Qualified for procuring business from reputed SALES PRO contributing to the growth of the individuals should possess 3-5 yrs exp. American brands, store chains etc. Great diversified experience and Co. & the maintenance of its market in high-end contemporary market. High E-MAIL: Mr. Narinder Singh @ background, very knowledgeable, leading position. commission structure available to those [email protected] strong productive sales-marketing who have excellent communication and CALL: India Code +9811024591 skills. Call: {212} 686-4607 Base, Ver. and VERY computer skills. Non-conflicting lines are ok. or FAX: +11-41610801/02 LUCRATIVE BONUS PLAN!!!!! E-mail resume to: Excellent Growth Opportunities! kmartynec@hickeyfreeman .com You can also meet us at MAGIC, VP of Global Sourcing & Mfg. Please email resume to: or Fax to: (585) 467-1315 Feb. 21-24 at Booth # CM233-58 [email protected] in the India Pavilion, Sourcing Zone. Seeks new challenge. Exceptional exp Visit us at: www.punihani.com sourcing, costing, placing and delivering Private Label Sales licensed and or program orders for mass, Est’d Private Label Women’s Sportswear mid tier, specialty chains and dept stores. Co seeks team player with 2+ exp in Textile Sales Reps Knowl. of all QC & vendor compliance EXCITING OPPORTUNITY prod development. Service existing Our client is a proven textile factory procedures. Outstanding mgmt & com- European Sales Exec. accts & solicit new. Req detailed follow specializing in printing polyester and munication skills. Unique ability to help up from concept to delivery. Strong cotton. They are well known for being develop product with design and mdse A leading girl’s dress company seeks a able to handle large volume and fast staff for Ladies/Jrs/Girls knit and woven European Sales Exec. Requires a comp skills – Excel a must. E-mail resume to: [email protected] delivery. They are located in Shaoxing, tops, bottoms & sptswr. Please reply to: strong background dealing with European China, and our mandate is to find 212-877-0249 / [email protected] retailers. Looking for a top performer exclusive representation who can col- who wants to grow with us. A superior laborate and create longterm business. track record is mandatory. Sales/Administration Pls contact us at [email protected] Send resume in confidence to: or phone Mr. Robert at 514-581-0556 to [email protected]. Knowledge of US Contemporary Specialty stores required. Italian a plus. discuss this opportunity. Join us in our journey. Contact: [email protected] Specialty Knit Tops & Experienced Sales SALES ASST. Bottoms Salesperson Wtd. Associates Busy accessories company seeks mature Seeking exp’d Knit Tops & Bottoms High end specialty retailer seeking individual to asst. Sales team, manage Sales Reps, min of 6 yrs. exp. women’s apparel and/or shoe/accessory showroom as well as addt’l diversified capable of 5 million in sales/yr. sales associates. Applicant must have duties. Extensive administrative and Pls. email or fax inquires to Julian retail sales experience, preferably with customer service experience required. [email protected] or designer brands. Please fax resume to Good benefits. Fax resume w/salary Fax: (323) 346-0181. Commission Only. (212) 220.8647 attn: F. Lopez. history to: 212-244-5897, Attn: VP. The new landmark of style.

In addition to The Strip's tallest hotel - the new, luxurious, 50 story Palazzo Hotel - this groundbreaking luxury development will be recognized as the frontier of fashion with an unprecedented collection of trend-setting retailers and restaurants. The Shoppes at The Palazzo will be the perfect complement to The Strip's most visited locations - The Venetian Resort • Hotel • Casino and The Grand Canal Shoppes.

To be a part of The Shoppes at The Palazzo, contact: Lori Pawley - Vice President, Fashion Retailing 312.960.5880 • [email protected] Lou Silverstri - Executive Director of Leasing 702.414.3549 • [email protected]

WWW.THESHOPPESATTHEPALAZZO.COM WWDCOTERIE SECTION II GILBERT ICK USING BENEFIT COSMETICS; WOLFORD TIGHTS AND STUART WEITZMAN BOOTS; FASHION ASSISTANT: COURTNEY KRYSTON; STYLED BY DANIELA KRYSTON; STYLED BY COURTNEY ASSISTANT: WEITZMAN BOOTS; FASHION ICK USING BENEFIT COSMETICS; WOLFORD TIGHTS AND STUART

DAY BREAK SHOPPING AROUND TOWN THIS FALL? NO NEED TO GALLIVANT IN SWEATS WHEN THERE ARE SO MANY MORE SOPHISTICATED OPTIONS THAT MAINTAIN THE COMFY QUOTIENT. AT FASHION COTERIE, WHICH RUNS AT THE SHOW PIERS FEB. 14-16, EXHIBITORS ARE STEPPING UP TO MORE REFINED, YET STILL CASUAL, LOOKS. HERE, A TWINKLE WOOL HOODIE WITH TWELFTH STREET BY CYNTHIA VINCENT’S WOOL BLEND JACKET. CARLOS FALCHI BAG. PHOTOGRAPHED BY TALAYA CENTENO AT R BY 45 RPM; MODEL: JENEAN/Q; HAIR BY RIAD AZAR USING L’OREAL PROFESSIONAL; MAKEUP BY SARA GL SARA PROFESSIONAL; MAKEUP BY RIAD AZAR USING L’OREAL 45 RPM; MODEL: JENEAN/Q; HAIR BY R BY CENTENO AT TALAYA BY PHOTOGRAPHED 2 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2006

SECTION II WWD.COM

COTERIE Out With the Old, Slowly in With the New

Ella Moss Skinny jeans Pencil skirt Blouson top by dress for fall. by Siwy. by Easel. Cynthia Steffe. PHOTO BY TALAYA CENTENO TALAYA PHOTO BY

By Lauren DeCarlo tum in the mainstream, perhaps as tops have grown longer and more voluminous. “In spring, volume was introduced by way of larger sleeves and longer tunics,” ANY BUYER ATTEMPTING TO MASTER THE FASHION COTERIE TRADE SHOW Roman said. Longer, more voluminous tops, like blouson and bat-winged styles, knows a triumph is guaranteed only when a perfect balance is struck. start to make an appearance this fall. This top trend was likely a reaction to the While retailers are keen to pick up the newest trends and silhouettes, consumers super-short, belly-baring one that lasted for a number of seasons. are following their lead, but at their own pace. At this installment of ENK’s Fashion “Now we’re going in the opposite direction of one extreme,” Roman noted. Coterie, brands hope to give retailers what they need and want for fall: designs that Volume isn’t restricted to tops. Dresses and skirts are getting pumped up, too. “I slowly introduce new trends and silhouettes to their consumers. love that I’m seeing volume in fabrics like taffeta that really hold the shape. It feels Renee Roman, contemporary market specialist at the Doneger Group buying very new to me,” Roman said. Even pencil skirts are following suit. Brands such offi ce here, believes visitors to the three-day trade show will begin to see a shift in as the New York-based contemporary label Easel are widening the leg opening on trends with the upcoming fall season. It’s the retailers’ responsibility, however, to pencil skirts to slightly change the silhouette. interpret those trends for their consumer base, she said. For buyers seeking an alternative to denim, companies such as the Los Angeles- “Sometimes consumers are hesitant to move forward because they’ve found based, bottoms-driven brand Park are offering a wide selection of pants inspired pieces that they now know how to wear,” she said. “It’s almost too jarring for them by men’s wear, particularly through using wool blends and fl attering pinstripes. to move forward. Retailers need to push it forward, but they need to do so carefully, The success of nondenim bottoms lies in their fi t: Roman said buyers can’t go in baby steps.” Roman fi rmly believes that trends have a shelf life of three years, at wrong with styles that have the familiar, fl attering fi t of denim. Corduroys are a which time the consumer looks to the next big thing. must-have for fall. Last season, Roman noted, corduroys were the second biggest “Buyers should look to introduce some newness aside from continuing the ro- seller behind denim. Roman likes the fi t of brands like True Religion and James mantic and bohemian trends,” she said, “They should commit some of their fl oor to Cured by Seun. Strong corduroy colors include black, cream and various shades of those trends, but now is the time to introduce new shapes. Don’t go overboard, but browns and greys. put a few key items here and there and as we go forward into fall and holiday, that’s Consumers who were devoted to the long, fl owy bohemian skirts of seasons past when they can really start moving it.” will start moving in the direction of easy, nonfussy dresses, like those by the Los Even if the romantic or Victorian-inspired trend continues to be strong, retailers Angeles-based contemporary collection Ella Moss. As with the bohemian skirts, will start to see lacy looks infused with a harder, edgier side, which could be accom- Roman believes these dresses will likely be paired with something familiar, like plished with the inclusion of something as simple as an exposed metal zipper. cowboy boots, to introduce the consumer to the dress trend, which seems to al- “The infl uence will be a bit more punk and Eighties, but it will have preppy sil- ready be on an upswing. But don’t bank on the cowboy boot trend to last too long. houettes from the Fifties and Sixties,” she said. According to Roman, it’s on its last legs. As we begin to trend away from embellishments, the newness comes from clean- “We saw the cowboy boot-trend last fall, on the fringe on certain trendsetters. We er, more structured shapes. “I think buyers should keep the romantic look through saw the look catch with the boots-over-jeans look and now it’s in its fi nal round,” June and July deliveries, but by [the end of August] they should start introducing said Roman. the harder look,” Roman said. Colorwise, black is defi nitely back for fall. The color palette for the season is The harder, edgier, “hipster-inspired” trend will only gain momentum as 2006 also rich with brown, most notably chocolate brown, in addition to all shades of rolls along, but retailers should immediately look at items, like skinny jeans, to grey, bold peacock blue, olive green, mustard yellow, fuchsia, magenta and what she introduce the new style to their consumers. Every denim buyer should be certain calls, “Eighties red,” a vibrant, bright red. to have skinny jeans in stock and, as time goes on, Roman advises buyers seek out Some styles have run their course and Roman advises buyers to instill a “do not darker, ink-colored washes, especially in black. resuscitate” order on certain trends and items. “I think we’re done with the fi tted Though skinny jeans were initially the jeans of choice for fashion stylists and blazer,” she said. “Instead, look for trapeze blazers that are cropped with a wider, trendsetters like Sienna Miller and Kate Moss, now the trend has gained momen- looser sleeve or long sweater coats.”

4 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2006

SECTION II

COTERIE A New Day

NEW YORK — This fall, daytime is the right time for fun, easy clothes that are perfect for running Window shopping at R by 45rpm: Tocca’s cotton and spandex around town. Denim, skirt and wool and nylon coat with Mint’s cotton and wool blouse. of course, comes into Nanette Lepore’s cashmere vest and wool skirt with Central Park play, but so do fun West’s silk blouse. Wolford tights; Stuart Weitzman boots. dresses, pattern-heavy skirts and billowy blouses — making it easier to walk the street in style.

Mara Hoffman’s silk dress. Christian Louboutin shoes. WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2006 5

WWD.COM

Refueling at Dean At Studio A hair & Deluca’s stand: salon at Lounge: Say Tse’s wool O’Halloran’s turtleneck with cotton toile shirt Liquid’s cotton with Ted Baker’s velvet vest and wool jacket and wool coat, and adam+eve’s wool Earnest Sewn’s pants. Lauren cotton jeans. Merkin bag; French Sole shoes.

Below, shopping at Lounge: Da-Nang’s cotton vest over Mike & Chris’ cotton top with Frankie B.’s cotton, polyester and Lycra spandex jeans. Gerard Durel bag. Johnstons Cashmere’s cashmere

cardigan over Nathalie’s silk and DANIELA KRYSTON AND NICOLE BESERRA; GILBERT STYLED BY COURTNEY ASSISTANTS: USING BENEFIT COSMETICS; FASHION cotton camisole and Hudson’s cotton jeans. Lauren Merkin bag. PHOTOS BY TALAYA CENTENO; MODELS: JENEAN/Q AND MEGAN/NEXT; HAIR BY RIAD AZAR USING L’OREAL PROFESSIONNEL; MAKEUP BY SARA GLICK SARA PROFESSIONNEL; MAKEUP BY RIAD AZAR USING L’OREAL HAIR BY CENTENO; MODELS: JENEAN/Q AND MEGAN/NEXT; TALAYA PHOTOS BY 6 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2006

SECTION II

COTERIE Crunch Time for Designers

By Lauren DeCarlo We’re rushing like crazy to DESIGNERS SHOWING DURING NEW YORK FASHION WEEK “ aren’t the only ones under pressure from the calendar. Vendors make it happen. But that’s part at the Fashion Coterie here also are scrambling to get ready for the next installment, which will take place at the Show Piers of the deal. We want to be in here Feb. 14-16. “We’re rushing like crazy to make it happen,” said Walter Baker, the fashion business, so we just designer of the New York-based contemporary collection Walter. have to do it. “The timing is hard. We make a lot of our stuff in China, and they’re having their Chinese New Year now, so whatever we got from them ” — Walter Baker, Walter two weeks ago was it,” Baker said. “But that’s part of the deal. We want to be in the fashion business, so we just have to do it.” For fall, Walter consists of skinny pants and fi tted jackets with a Fifties or Sixties inspiration, but dresses are a crucial part of the collection this season. Colors range from shades of grey, blue and black to pink and red, “to pop it up a bit,” Baker said. Tops in the collection wholesale between $40 and $50, pants wholesale for less than $100 and the wholesale price range of jack- ets is between $100 and $150. Walter is available at more than 2,000 specialty boutiques worldwide as well as department stores such as Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, Henri Bendel and Nordstrom. “My goal, at Coterie, is to increase our market share in spe- cialty stores around the world and increase market share in de- partment stores,” Baker said. “I want our areas within stores to get larger as the brand gets more recognized.” Baker is anticipating a strong show at Coterie and anticipates a wholesale volume of about $300,000 over the three-day period. “And that’s just orders people leave on the spot,” he said, noting that most of the major department stores tend to place orders directly from the showroom. “Coterie is the best venue for seeing all the stores and every- one comes to Coterie no matter what,” he said. “They want to see what’s fresh and new.” And Baker pulls out all the stops to make sure buyers see the big picture. “We’ll have models in the booth, which makes it so much better for the buyers to actually see the product on a live person. It’s a small investment, but it’s totally worth it,” he said. David Lim, owner and designer of the Los Angeles-based Continued on page 7

A knit jersey dress by A. Cheng.

Madison jeans by Kasil, a Los Angeles- based denim brand. ADVERTISEMENT 2006 ITALIAN TRADE SHOWS

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Mipel March 16-19, 2006; Sept. 22-25, 2006 Paola Frani Milano Rho Cream pleated jersey dress. www.mipel.com *Dates may change Embroidered tank top with gold sequins.

33 East 67th Street New York NY 10021 Tel. 212.980.1500 Fax 212.758.1050 Email: [email protected] www.italtrade.com ADVERTISEMENT ITALY’S FASHION CHAIN: THE WORLD-WIDE DEMAND FOR ITALIAN CLOTHING, ACCESSORIES AND TEXTILES IS ON THE RISE

The Italian fashion industry is “unique, lively and a world leader,” declaring innovation to be positive, with Italian designer names rising in importance across the world—even in China. as its primary and longest-lasting competitive advantage, reported SMI-ATI, The Italian Textile Today, China is considered a growing market more than a competitor, with rising interest in the men’s, and Fashion Industry Federation, which represents Italy’s fashion and fabric industries across accessories, fibers and designer fragrance markets, asserted. the world. “Creativity, quality, flexibility are definitely the The Italian fashion system continues to succeed most renowned points of strength of the textile and because it offers retailers and buyers’ authenticity, clothing sector in Italy. Something that the whole originality, efficiency, value and distinction— “Creativity, quality, flexibility are definitely world envies and strives to emulate,” stated Aniello fulfilling consumer tastes and needs across the the most renowned points of strength of the Musella, executive director for the U.S. at the Italian globe, asserted Paolo Zegna, president of SMI-ATI. Trade Commission. The industry is consistently improving, introducing textile and clothing sector in Italy. “Last year was a difficult year for ‘Made in Italy’, technological leadership that advances the performance characterized by a strong Euro, major competition of fibers, yarns, fabrics and finishings. Italy’s bustling Something that the whole world envies from low-cost countries, and slow growth in the textile and clothing industries are made up of about and strives to emulate.” European market. Nevertheless, it ended with some 67,500 companies, with large, medium and even good signs, mainly coming from more structured small operations co-existing successfully. Italy’s ~ Aniello Musella, executive director for the U.S., Italian Trade Commission companies, and a new awareness of the opportunities industries are comprised of 540,000 employees who that foreign markets offer to us. contribute significantly to the international popularity “Italian companies are now joining their efforts to of the “Made in Italy” label. approach sophisticated markets as an integrated system, offering buyers not only products, but also “The strong export trend of the textile/clothing industry is shown by the sales share abroad, service and assistance,” Musella concluded. amounting to 62 percent of total sales,” Paolo Zegna added. “Italian fashion, strongly founded on As the U.S. retail market becomes increasingly competitive, American consumers continue textiles and clothing, has enormously contributed to the definition of ‘good taste’ and ‘life quality’, to acquire Italian brands and products that assure them of prestige, quality and luxury. There is with positive effects on Italian products (sold) all over the world.” a growing demand for the best—and to a rising number of shoppers and consumers, that means The world-wide demand for Italian clothing, accessories and textiles in 2006 should continue brand names, fabrics and clothing that is inspired, designed or produced in Italy. BVM spa Tel +39 051 536011 LES COPAINS USA - 46 West 55th Street NY New York Tel 212 262 85 56 ADVERTISEMENT

Plinio Visona Made of very soft and beautiful calf leather, this Italian handmade shoulder bag is adorned with delicate and precious details and comfortable external pockets.

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Lanerossi The sweater is knitted in Mozart 2/30 yarn, merino extra fine wool (100%).

WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2006 7

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Dresses are key for Walter’s fall collection.

Continued from page 6 his schedule. Producing domestically brings its own denim-driven brand Kasil, said the February install- unique set of circumstances. ment of Coterie is always a particularly busy show “No matter how long you do it, it doesn’t get any because fall is a big season at retail. easier,” Lim said. “Since Los Angeles is the denim “Coterie has a reputation of being a juried selec- capital, there are so many brands here using the tion and because of that, buyers at Coterie write or- same facilities and there are so many samples going ders more often than at other shows. Buyers tend to through. If something comes out wrong, we have to want to stock up their stores during fall,” Lim said. take it back to the drawing board.” “We always want to do our best there.” Lim declined Alice Cheng, founder of the New York-based to provide a projected three-day wholesale volume, contemporary line A. Cheng, said she’d like to move but said he would like to increase the number of into more department stores, but understands such specialty stores where his collection is offered. a move takes time. At Coterie, he intends to build the brand up, “Department stores like to look at you for a couple of while maintaining what he calls “the cool factor.” seasons before they take you on,” Cheng said. Currently, One way of doing this is by sticking with smaller A. Cheng is available in 80 specialty boutiques in the boutiques and forgoing the department store route. U.S., Canada, Sweden and Denmark. Wholesale prices The wholesale price range of Kasil denim is be- of the collection range from $98 for blouses to $200 for tween $85 and $120. Corduroys, which wholesale coats. Dresses wholesale for roughly $140. for $85, are expected to be a big hit for fall. Kasil’s This season, Diana Lee joined Cheng as co-de- cords come in chocolate brown, khaki and maroon. signer. Lee previously designed her own collection A small sampling of women’s blazers made from of sweaters. With Lee on board, Cheng said the col- 100 percent cotton will be introduced this season, lection has grown by about 40 percent. wholesaling for $175. “Since the collection is now twice as big, I think The timing of the show was an issue for Lim, but we should do about $900,000 in wholesale volume since all of the merchandise is produced in Los for 2006,” Cheng said, noting that the total was dou- Angeles, it wasn’t the Chinese New Year affecting ble last year’s volume. 8 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2006

SECTION II

COTERIE

Velvet’s wool, rayon and silk dress. Motif 56 leather belt; Wolford tights; Stuart Weitzman boots.

NEW YORK — Nothing’s more fun than Manhattan nightlife — or dressing for it. For instance, eat, drink and be fashionable at Casablanca Tea Room, SoHo’s newest hot spot, where fresh Moroccan mint tea is brewing at all times. Flowy slipdresses and feminine strapless numbers are part of the dress code, as are shorter, fl irtier dresses that recall the days of Edie Sedgwick at The Factory.

Carmen Marc Valvo’s silk dress. Julez Bryant gold necklace. Caption go here for this

PHOTOS BY

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Pull quote will go “here Pull quote will go here Pull quote wil go here Pull quote. ” — pqn Moroccan Nights■ ●▲▼ WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2006 9

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Black Halo’s silk dress. Lafayette 148’s rabbit-fur jacket and silk skirt with Only Hearts’ silk camisole. FASHION ASSISTANTS: COURTNEY KRYSTON AND NICOLE BESERRA; STYLED BY DANIELA KRYSTON AND NICOLE BESERRA; GILBERT STYLED BY COURTNEY ASSISTANTS: FASHION

USING BENEFIT COSMETICS; FOOD STYLING BY KHALIDUSING BENEFIT COSMETICS; MENIRI; FOOD STYLING BY

Badgley Mischka’s rayon dress. Christopher Samantha Treacy’s silk dress. Viktor & Rolf Deane’s silk shoes. Miguelina’s silk, nylon and Lycra dress. spandex dress. Christian Louboutin shoes. GLICK SARA PROFESSIONNEL; MAKEUP BY RIAD AZAR USING L’OREAL HAIR BY CENTENO; MODELS: JENEAN/Q AND MEGAN/NEXT; TALAYA PHOTOS BY 10 WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2006

SECTION II

COTERIE What’s Hot in the Booths

By Nola Sarkisian-Miller and looking toward more fashion bodies, like skirts Lauren DeCarlo launching for fall, as a way to make the brand “dressier or even worn at the beach, over a bi- BUYERS SHOULD HAVE THEIR COTERIE kini.” checklist in order, but are brands on the same Ya-Ya’s reworked, men’s wear-inspired page? Sure, skinny jeans will make an appear- trench features modified proportions like ance at the trade show, but so will men’s wear- cropped, sleeveless and capelet styles and inspired pieces; fashion bodies from sporty, backside pleating, with wholesale prices aver- casualwear brands, and dresses and tops that aging $280. Love from Ya-Ya is a diffusion line feature a mix of contrasting fabrics. The next in its second season that offers fashion takes big thing, many brands say, comes in an array on elementary pieces, with wholesale prices of shapes and styles. hovering around $30 to $60. Think of trousers Corduroy tops are already selling well for made of fl eece and full-length halter dresses in the New York-based retro collection Le Tigre, rayon jersey. and hopes are high the trend will continue. In “I wanted to give women’s weekend wear addition to the cord tops, available in seven another option besides the tracksuit,” said Yael colors, including sage, maroon and rose, the Afl alo, designer and owner of Ya-Ya and Love brand is also offering extra-long Ts and ribbed From Ya-Ya. tanks perfect for layering. The makers behind Pure Color, the denim “We always have the classics, but this season line known for its friendlier fi ts, will launch 317 we’ve put a lot of faith in our fashion pieces,” at Fashion Coterie to offer women alternatives said Ali Paul, vice president of communica- to tried-and-true jeans. Easy-fi tting pants with tions for Le Tigre. In addition to creating more novel treatments such as embroidered waist- fashion bodies, the brand is pushing forward bands, canvas tabs and luxe trims make up the with more luxe fabrics, like cashmere for holi- line, which uses twills, corduroys and men’s day and superfi ne piqué cotton. The wholesale wear fabrics. Wholesale prices are $75. price range of the collection has remained con- “We wanted to create something fun, some- sistent, however. Wholesale prices are between thing you’d want to wear in your leisure time $13 and $73. from the movies to shopping to parties,” said Le Tigre’s fall collection generally is push- Kerry Jolna, chief executive offi cer of the Jolna ing high-energy colors like bright blue, red, Design Group, which owns Pure Color and pink and yellow, especially in its outerwear 317. pieces, like a goose-down reversible vest. Of The feeling in the fall air is that less is more, course classic pieces, like polos, are always especially in the denim world. Pared-down, re- being updated, but Paul said the brand is also fi ned styling, sans the rips, the whiskers and Sketches from Ya-Ya’s fall collection.

For more information, ModaEspaña please do not hesitate to contact us The Train-Fashion Coterie Spanish Intertextile Council [email protected] New York www.knitting.org Trade Commission of Spain February 12-14/2006 - 14-16/2006 Tel.: (212) 661 49 59 Fax: (212) 972 24 94 [email protected] Experience Moda España on the net... www.fashionfromspain.com

CO-COLLECTIONS • CUSTO BARCELONA • DIKTON’S • HOSS HOMELESS ESCORPION • DAVID VALLS • PONS QUINTANA • SIMORRA • SITA MURT WWD, WEDNESDAY, FEBRUARY 8, 2006 11

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broidery and meshing; crocheted pieces, and a collection is currently available in Macy’s East Bright mixing of different textured fabrics. and six freestanding stores around the world. colors “Muchacha is always on trend and Europe Muchacha is anticipating a wholesale volume of rule at is defi nitely where the trends come from,” said $48 million in 2006. Le Tigre. Genie Parada-Fishman, president of Agent R.E.D. Embellishments still abound when it comes International, a showroom here that specializes to ornate eveningwear at Los Angeles-based Sue in the European contemporary market. Agent Wong. Frocks from Sue Wong Nocturne and Sue R.E.D. works in tandem with St. Maarten USA, a Wong Collection will feature Victorian sensibili- distributor for international brands. ties with lace, tucking, beading and tulle. Along Parada-Fishman said Muchacha’s fall collec- with slip styles, Wong will offer dresses with cape- tion is very textured, with some pieces that mix let, fl utter and baby-doll puff sleeves in shades of opposing prints and texturally different fabrics. eggplant, teal, peacock, tea rose and printed lace “We’re mixing plaids and fl oral prints, and using on silk. Wholesale prices for Sue Wong Nocturne completely different fabrics on the same garment, range from $147 to $300 and for the day-to-eve- like silk and felt, wool with silk and lace with silk. ning styles of Sue Wong Collection from $115 to Simplicity is not in the mix.” $149. Muchacha will also push crocheted tops, knick- “People come to me for handiwork and that’s still

ers and military-inspired cropped jackets. The the driver for the holiday business,” Wong said. CHRIS PIERETTILE TIGRE PHOTO BY

Fur and multitextured dresses are big at Muchacha. the overprocessing, is the preferred look. Giving denim its edge is the changing sil- houette of a skinnier pant leg designed for easy tucking into CORPORATE HEADQUARTERS knee-high boots. It is a look COLLECTION CONRAD C embraced by Los Angeles- 9320 boul. St-Laurent, Suite 200 based Allen B. by Allen Montreal, Quebec Schwartz and Pure Color. And H2N 1N7 Canada that aesthetic — a rock ’n’ roll, Tel: 514.385.9599 Victorian hybrid — is crossing 1.800.561.4416 over into other fabrics. “We call it royalty rock,” conradc.com said Sean Barron, co-owner of Los Angeles-based Joie sports- NEW YORK wear. Barron said narrow-leg TED DZIENA, VP SALES pants in cropped, ankle and 485 - 7th Av. Suite 406 long cuts are available in New York, NY 10018 stretch corduroy, stretch vel- Tel: 212.967.8181 vet and satin fabrics, which wholesale from $50 to $80. Joie’s iconic cargo pant is DALLAS reinterpreted in a cropped RAY RAK straight-leg version in satin or Tel: 214.749.4810 leather. For those ladies not Cell: 214.914.1111 blessed with willowy limbs, off-center, side-seam details MID WEST “give the illusion of longer THOMAS J. SLADKY legs,” he said. Tel: 563.556.0864 Complementing the ciga- Cell: 312.543.9486 rette styles are slouchy cotton voile tunics with French cuffs ATLANTA and fur-trimmed sweaters JEFFREY SCHECHTER & ASSOC. INC. by Joie and fi tted blazers in Tel: 404.577.4717 denim and gabardine with vel- vet and novelty trims by A.B.S. MID ATLANTIC by Allen Schwartz. DONALD COOPER Muchacha, the contem- Tel: 215.628.2194 porary collection based in Cell: 215.620.2940 Barcelona, continues to take its cues from cutting-edge, European trends. Victorian- inspired dresses and skirts will remain strong, but so will fur, either real or fake; em- WHYPZ‹UL^`VYR‹[VR`V

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