Asturias of Family-Run Hotels and Pensions
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Casas Cantabricas offers holidays in lovely lesser known regions of Spain and Portugal, with an excellent choice of houses – from seaside cottages to country mansions – and Asturias of family-run hotels and pensions. There are numerous restaurants in this region, some simple and others more sophisticated, many family run. Most of these mentioned here are reasonably priced and all of them should by law offer a menú or Whichever property or hotel you choose, you will find yourself in plato del día which includes wine and bread, but in some establishments this is only at lunchtime when a beautiful and fascinating part of Iberia. Whichever region you the local workers have their meal. In general helpings are very generous so be careful not to order too go to, you’ll discover that it has its own history and character – much if ordering à la carta. In some places, especially the mesónes there are no written menus – someone and its own proud traditions. And among the most important of will normally rattle off a long list of what is available for primer plato or primero (first course) and these traditions are always those of eating and drinking: from segundo plato (second course). See the following section on typical dishes farm to market, from kitchen to table, the production and You may wonder what the difference is between a mesón and a restaurante. A mesón is rather like the old English enjoyment of good food is at the heart of local life. inn, serving food and drink to travellers –do not expect as much variety as in a restaurante – they normally offer “¡Buen Provecho!”, our guide to restaurants and food, is based good, honest, simple fare, served in the bar or in el comedor (dining room) if they have one. Cured hams, chorizos and morcillas will usually hang from hooks on beams and are offered as tapas (snacks) for those too hungry to wait on our local knowledge, experience and love of good food. Its for a full meal. However, some places may call themselves a mesón but offer a full restaurant menu – all rather aim is to serve as a guide to the food and drink of the regions confusing! where our holidays are based; whether choosing where to eat out What sort of food might you expect to eat here? Asturian cuisine is based on good local produce – haricot beans or what to cook “a la casa”, we’re sure you’ll find it helpful. In it and other pulses, cabbages, greens, pork products – chorizo, morcilla, panceta and jamón – tradiitionally from la you’ll find a useful vocabulary section, several recipes for local matanza (killing of the family pig), lechazo (milk fed baby lamb), cabrito (kid) and all sorts of fish and seafood specialities and information on shopping and markets (many with local names). Milk is an important ingredient, not only for the good local cheeses, but in the most For each region we offer a personal selection of local restaurants. common puddings you will find here – arroz con leche (rice pudding), leche frita (fried milk) and flan (caramel custard). The cooking is tasty and hearty and emphasis is placed greatly on the quality of the ingredients. We include all sorts of places, from simple seafood tapas bar to elegant palacio dining room; all are included because they offer In Asturias you may find if you order the menú or plato del día you will be given soup to start with followed by another first course like a bean stew and then main course- eat well! good food of their locality. In this part of Spain, particularly in the mesónes, the first course is often more interesting than the main course. Our restaurant selection does not claim to be definitive, but we This is because of local demand – Spaniards in this area like their meat and fish fried or grilled and rate the quality hope you’ll find it a helpful introduction. If you find somewhere of the main ingredients as being more important than sauces and other condiments. Attitudes are changing though you particularly like that we don’t mention, please let us know – and you will find some interesting main course dishes. we are always pleased to have your comments and suggestions. Whenever you ask a Spaniard round for a meal you need never worry about surprising him with some new dish – © Casas Cantabricas 2013 serve what he likes; make sure you choose the best ingredients and follow your recipe closely. Whatever you do there will be some criticism – Spaniards like to discuss food. Asturias p.1 Galicia A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O Cantabria 1 C o s t a Ve r d e Luarca Cudillero Gijón Restaurant Guide Villaviciosa C Asturias 2 o s t a Ve r d e Cantabria Euskadi Navia Novellana Ribadasella Asturias 1 Ballota Aviles Llanes Galicia Navarra Castropol Hints on eating out in Spain 36 León Burgos 3 Western Asturias Oviedo Colombres La Rioja Wine 36 CASTILLA Y LEON de la Bobia Cangas Some typical dishes 37 erra Grado de Onis Si Tineo Langreo Euskadi, La Rioja,Navarra 4 Eastern Asturias A few recipes from Spain 39 Salamanca U R I A e T S g Useful phrases in Spanish 41 S r G Grandas A Pola o Picos de Eu G r A Cangas Mieres op 5 de Salime de Laviana s a Castilla y León e L del Narcea r A arque N a I Pa P atu I rq ra C R C la ue Natural de l B s Fue d TA I nte e S 6 s de Narcia omiedo A N A C C A S T I L 7 L A Y L E O N ii Introduction Casas Cantabricas Restaurant & Food Guide Asturias 1 Eastern Asturias: the Picos de Columbres Tornin Panes Europa & the East coast La Barata MAP REF: N3 Casa Sanchez MAP REF: K3 Bar El Comportu MAP REF: N4 Colombres, in the main square. On N625 between Cangas de Onis and Sames. On the main street on the right as you enter Panes. This family-run restaurant with good home cooking has been Just a simple family run restaurant popular with locals and Popular with locals, especially fishermen (they sell Beleño an excellent find for us. Do not be put off by the rather travellers alike for their good value menú del día. tackle,floats etc), this nicely old fashioned bar with a small scruffy bar downstairs- go up and you will be pleasantly covered terrace at the front, serves good homemade tapas Fonda de Ponga MAP REF: K4 surprised by the cosy and tastefully decorated dining room Santillán and raciónes. If you are not feeling like a full meal, it is a In the Nature Reserve of Ponga, a small town right away upstairs. The menú del día is excellent (four courses, but no great place to stop for a snack - speciality is “ jijas con tortas from it all, up the Desfiladero de los Beyos, south of Cangas choice) but there is also an à la carte menu. Good local La Ruta MAP REF: K3 de maiz” - literally the fried stuffing for chorizo, served with de Onis. The restaurant is in the centre of the town. atmosphere. Good value. On the C637 about 1.5 kms from Sames. maize tortillas - great on a cold day with a couple of fried Tel: (0034) 985 843 004 eggs and a glass of wine. Restaurante Pico Jana MAP REF: N3 For those staying in Sames this is the nearest local restaurant. An old fashioned, family run restaurant with a small dining In the main square next to the school in Colombres Simple it may be, but the food is homely and well cooked room with a lovely view onto the surrounding mountains. and the owner is willing to please and it is good value for Puente La Huera Tel: (0034) 985 412 122 Very good home cooking including an excellent value menú money. There is a nice old bar where you can buy a range of del día. Game dishes are a speciality. A modern bar and dining room run by a friendly and helpful cheeses, cured sausages and free-range eggs among other Restaurante/Bar Desfiladero del Sella family. They do raciónes in the bar and a menú del día as products. You can eat here or in the small dining room of MAP REF: K3 Puente Nuevo well as à la carte in the restaurant. The menú del día is fresh about four tables. There are à la carte dishes as well as the On the N625 (km 131) in the Desfiladero de Los Beyos and varied. Reasonably priced. very hearty menú del día. going towards Riaño. Casa Moran MAP REF: L3 Ceceda Tel: (0034) 985 944 690 Puente Nuevo, inland from Celorio, between Posada and Nueva A simple, family run restaurant/bar with a terrace in a great Mere. Restaurante Casa Colo MAP REF: J3 spot by the river in the gorge. Fabada and roast kid and Casa Pilar MAP REF: L3 If you want to eat fabada go here - it is excellent. The Ceceda, turning to the right off N634 between Infiesto and homemade puddings are their specialities, but it is worth restaurant has no sign - it is more like a private house with Nava. Just off the AS-263 as it runs though Nueva (also known as trying their cheeses if you just want a snack. They sell these tables out in the garden for eating out by the river.