Casas Cantabricas offers holidays in lovely lesser known regions of and Portugal, with an excellent choice of houses – from seaside cottages to country mansions – and of family-run hotels and pensions. There are numerous restaurants in this region, some simple and others more sophisticated, many family run. Most of these mentioned here are reasonably priced and all of them should by law offer a menú or Whichever property or hotel you choose, you will find yourself in plato del día which includes wine and , but in some establishments this is only at lunchtime when a beautiful and fascinating part of Iberia. Whichever region you the local workers have their . In general helpings are very generous so be careful not to order too go to, you’ll discover that it has its own history and character – much if ordering à la carta. In some places, especially the mesónes there are no written menus – someone and its own proud traditions. And among the most important of will normally rattle off a long list of what is available for primer plato or primero (first ) and these traditions are always those of eating and drinking: from segundo plato (second course). See the following section on typical dishes farm to market, from to table, the production and You may wonder what the difference is between a mesón and a restaurante. A mesón is rather like the old English enjoyment of good is at the heart of local life. inn, serving food and drink to travellers –do not expect as much variety as in a restaurante – they normally offer “¡Buen Provecho!”, our guide to restaurants and food, is based good, honest, simple fare, served in the bar or in el comedor (dining room) if they have one. Cured hams, and morcillas will usually hang from hooks on beams and are offered as tapas (snacks) for those too hungry to wait on our local knowledge, experience and love of good food. Its for a full meal. However, some places may call themselves a mesón but offer a full restaurant menu – all rather aim is to serve as a guide to the food and drink of the regions confusing! where our holidays are based; whether choosing where to eat out What sort of food might you expect to eat here? Asturian is based on good local produce – haricot or what to cook “a la casa”, we’re sure you’ll find it helpful. In it and other pulses, cabbages, greens, products – , morcilla, panceta and jamón – tradiitionally from la you’ll find a useful vocabulary section, several recipes for local matanza (killing of the family pig), lechazo (milk fed baby lamb), cabrito (kid) and all sorts of fish and seafood specialities and information on shopping and markets (many with local names). Milk is an important ingredient, not only for the good local cheeses, but in the most For each region we offer a personal selection of local restaurants. common puddings you will find here – arroz con leche ( pudding), leche frita (fried milk) and flan (caramel custard). The is tasty and hearty and emphasis is placed greatly on the quality of the ingredients. We include all sorts of places, from simple seafood tapas bar to elegant palacio dining room; all are included because they offer In Asturias you may find if you order the menú or plato del día you will be given soup to start with followed by another first course like a and then main course- eat well! good food of their locality. In this part of Spain, particularly in the mesónes, the first course is often more interesting than the main course. Our restaurant selection does not claim to be definitive, but we This is because of local demand – Spaniards in this area like their and fish fried or grilled and rate the quality hope you’ll find it a helpful introduction. If you find somewhere of the main ingredients as being more important than and other condiments. Attitudes are changing though you particularly like that we don’t mention, please let us know – and you will find some interesting main course dishes. we are always pleased to have your comments and suggestions. Whenever you ask a Spaniard round for a meal you need never worry about surprising him with some new dish – © Casas Cantabricas 2013 serve what he likes; make sure you choose the best ingredients and follow your recipe closely. Whatever you do there will be some criticism – Spaniards like to discuss food. Asturias p.1 Galicia A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O Cantabria 1 C o s t a Ve r d e Luarca Gijón Restaurant Guide Villaviciosa C Asturias 2 o s t a Ve r d e Cantabria Euskadi Ribadasella Asturias 1 Aviles Galicia Navarra Hints on eating out in Spain 36 León Burgos 3 Western Asturias Colombres La Rioja Wine 36 CASTILLA Y LEON de la Bobia Cangas Some typical dishes 37 erra Grado de Onis

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Euskadi, La Rioja,Navarra 4 Eastern Asturias A few recipes from Spain 39 Salamanca U R I A e T S g Useful phrases in Spanish 41 S r G Grandas A Pola o Picos de Eu G r A Cangas op 5 de Salime de s a Castilla y León e L del Narcea r A

arque N a I Pa P atu I rq ra C R C la ue Natural de l B s Fue d TA I nte e S 6 s de Narcia omiedo A N A C C A S T I L 7 L A Y L E O N

ii Introduction Casas Cantabricas Restaurant & Food Guide Asturias 1 Eastern Asturias: the Picos de Columbres Tornin Panes Europa & the East coast La Barata MAP REF: N3 Casa Sanchez MAP REF: K3 Bar El Comportu MAP REF: N4 Colombres, in the main square. On N625 between Cangas de Onis and Sames. On the main street on the right as you enter Panes. This family-run restaurant with good home cooking has been Just a simple family run restaurant popular with locals and Popular with locals, especially fishermen (they sell Beleño an excellent find for us. Do not be put off by the rather travellers alike for their good value menú del día. tackle,floats etc), this nicely old fashioned bar with a small scruffy bar downstairs- go up and you will be pleasantly covered terrace at the front, serves good homemade tapas Fonda de Ponga MAP REF: K4 surprised by the cosy and tastefully decorated dining room Santillán and raciónes. If you are not feeling like a full meal, it is a In the Nature Reserve of Ponga, a small town right away upstairs. The menú del día is excellent (four courses, but no great place to stop for a snack - speciality is “ jijas con tortas from it all, up the Desfiladero de los Beyos, south of Cangas choice) but there is also an à la carte menu. Good local La Ruta MAP REF: K3 de maiz” - literally the fried stuffing for chorizo, served with de Onis. The restaurant is in the centre of the town. atmosphere. Good value. On the C637 about 1.5 kms from Sames. tortillas - great on a cold day with a couple of fried Tel: (0034) 985 843 004 eggs and a glass of wine. Restaurante Pico Jana MAP REF: N3 For those staying in Sames this is the nearest local restaurant. An old fashioned, family run restaurant with a small dining In the main square next to the school in Colombres Simple it may be, but the food is homely and well cooked room with a lovely view onto the surrounding mountains. and the owner is willing to please and it is good value for Puente La Huera Tel: (0034) 985 412 122 Very good home cooking including an excellent value menú money. There is a nice old bar where you can buy a range of del día. dishes are a speciality. A modern bar and dining room run by a friendly and helpful cheeses, cured and free-range eggs among other Restaurante/Bar Desfiladero del Sella family. They do raciónes in the bar and a menú del día as products. You can eat here or in the small dining room of MAP REF: K3 Puente Nuevo well as à la carte in the restaurant. The menú del día is fresh about four tables. There are à la carte dishes as well as the On the N625 (km 131) in the Desfiladero de Los Beyos and varied. Reasonably priced. very hearty menú del día. going towards Riaño. Casa Moran MAP REF: L3 Ceceda Tel: (0034) 985 944 690 Puente Nuevo, inland from Celorio, between Posada and Nueva A simple, family run restaurant/bar with a terrace in a great Mere. Restaurante Casa Colo MAP REF: J3 spot by the river in the gorge. Fabada and roast kid and Casa Pilar MAP REF: L3 If you want to eat fabada go here - it is excellent. The Ceceda, turning to the right off N634 between Infiesto and homemade puddings are their specialities, but it is worth restaurant has no sign - it is more like a private house with Nava. Just off the AS-263 as it runs though Nueva (also known as trying their cheeses if you just want a snack. They sell these tables out in the garden for eating out by the river. There is a Nueva de Llanes (signposted clearly from main road). too as well as jamones, chorizos etc. N.B. For the very Tel: (0034) 985 70 4016 bar/ shop next door selling all sorts of things - the ceramic Tel: (0034) 985 410 177 energetic there is a wonderful mountain bike route from plant pots are particularly good value. We have eaten here Recommended by a Spanish friend of ours we ate here on here. 22 bends at 12%. Difficult! our way to Galicia in 1991 and had such a good meal that Great fish and seafood at reasonable prices. Specialities several times and have always enjoyed ourselves and been include arroz cremoso con bogavante (a type of risotto with satisfied, but fabada is no longer poor man’s fare. we felt like giving up our journey and spending the rest of the day there. Our feelings have not changed. We ate there lobster), fabinas verdes con marisco (small green beans with Nava very recently and nothing about the place has changed, except seafood) or caldereta de maricos (a mixed seafood stew). Benia de Onis that they now have a lovely terrace with magnificent views There is a reasonable menú del día. Restaurante Sidreria La Figar MAP REF: J3 of the valley and hills beyond. Family run (it has been in the In the centre of Nava. Casa Moran MAP REF: L3 family for 80 years) it has an atmospheric old fashioned Llonin Tel: (0034) 985 717 551 Casa Moran Benia de Onis, on the road between Arenas de dining-room with great views and they serve delicious You are in the capital of cider country here and La Figar will and Cangas de Onis. traditional Asturian dishes. Wonderful homemade puddings. La Xana MAP REF: M3 certainly make you aware of it. Scrumptious dishes like A good place to have if you are exploring in this area Prices are reasonable. Friendly owners and staff. Opening About 7 kms from Panes on the road towards Arenas de onions stuffed with tuna, loin of pork with clams in cider or if you are visiting Covadonga. This is what I call a real old- hours: 13.30 -16.00 and 20.30 -23.00. Closed on Mondays Cabrales which runs by the river Cares. It is 500 metres up , prawns in cider, peppers stuffed with baby pig’s fashioned country restaurant, perhaps more French in its decor and in October and between 15th September and 1st July on the right after the village sign for Llonin. Rather tucked trotters and casseroled kid feature on their menu as well as than Spanish. They have a pretty garden and a recent conser - dinners are only served on Friday and Saturday nights. away so you need to look out for this. barbequed meat and homemade puudings. vatory style extension which houses another dining room. Tel: (0034) 985 415 923 MAP REF: J3 The food is honest home cooking - not too greasy or heavy Sevares A very special little restaurant, only open on Saturday Restaurante Sidreria Prida and Rosa, the owner is still in charge after many, many years. lunchtime and evening and Sunday lunchtime. Run by Felipe, Calle Colegiata 12, Nava. Direction AS 251 towards MAP REF: K3 La Roca a very keen fisherman and his wife Tere, you will receive a . Llanes Sevares, on the N634 between Arriondas and Infiesto. very warm welcome here. The restaurant is tucked away in a Tel: (0034) 985 717 305 An old mesón on the road with a large bar and dining room, tiny lane in a very pretty spot not far from the Cares river. A mixture of tradition and creativity here! Try the octupus Restaurante Covadonga MAP REF: M3 this is the place to go or stop if you like barbecued meat or They serve traditional Asturian dishes as well as freshly with wild mushrooms and prawns and maize flour tortillas with Llanes, up a side street near the quay. chicken. The “parrilla” - the barbecue grill catches your eye caught fish from the river. Very useful for those staying at the various fillings, grilled fish platters and meat cooked on stone. Good traditional Asturian food with an extensive menu the moment you walk in as there is nearly always something Rio Aliso apartments. compared to many places. It is reasonably priced and the delicious looking cooking on it. Apart from the barbecue they Pendueles helpings are huge and it has a busy atmosphere. also have other dishes including fish and oven roasted lamb Niembro or baby goat. They also do barbecued meat for you to take- Mesón La Encina MAP REF: M3 MAP REF: M3 away … perhaps for a picnic down on the beach. At Casa Canene La Parrera MAP REF: M3 In the village of Pendueles by the railway line. Signposted lunchtimes it does get very busy particularly at weekends. Llanes, near restaurante Covadonga. On the road down to the village. after you turn into the village off N634. They offer a very good menú del día - very varied with Tel: (0034) 985 407 561 Tel: (0034) 985 411 155 masses to eat. Cangas de Onis This restaurant does not look up to much from the outside A simple, friendly, family run mesón with a bar, dining room El Pescador MAP REF: M3 Los Arcos MAP REF: K3 and the interior decor and furnishings are simple, but and terrace – particularly nice on a sunny day. Very good according to lovers of seafood who we have met, this is the value menú del día. Home cooked regional food – specialities Llanes - in the same street as the above. On the left in the main street towards Covadonga. place in Asturias to go for it! are fabada, patatas rellenas, arroz con leche and tarta de “Very good with pleasant atmosphere and good service” A restaurant serving traditional dishes with a modernist queso con arrandanos (blackcurrants). Well worth a detour says one of our clients. touch. Both fish and meat feature on the menu and emphasis is paid to the quality of the produce. Expensive, but there is a and Pendueles has a beach too. very good menú del día available.

2 Asturias Casas Cantabricas Restaurant & Food Guide Asturias 3 Sellano Oviedo they should be. His specialities are grilled whole red mullet, La Taberna del Mar MAP REF: D2 squid in its own ink an, octopus with greens and monkfish (In the port in Luarca on the other side of the car park) with lobster. Restaurante Hermanos de Pliar Where to eat in Oviedo MAP REF: H3 There’s a real feel of the port and a good, cheerful MAP REF: J4 If you visit Oviedo you might like to try one of the following Gobiendes atmosphere in this cavernous old place where fish and Take N625 from Cangas de Onis towards Riano up the places recommended by a friend who is from the city. seafood are the specialities but there are other dishes too, all Desfiladero de Los Beyos. Turn right off the gorge onto the La Calle Gascona This is the “cider street” with numerous El Gallu Juancho MAP REF: K2 reasonably priced. They have a covered terrace outside restaurants and sidrerias (cider houses). Casa Amparo (Arco where you can eat in the warmer months and watch the AS261 towards Sellano/Belleno. It is in the village of Sellano In the village of Gobiendes, up the hill from the (very de los Zapatos, 6 – in front of the Fontán) Nice menú del día boats come in and out of the port. on the main road on the right hand side. informative and helpful) visitor centre and the beautiful – not cheap, but not too pricey. La Gran Taberna (Plaza Tel: (0034) 985 843134 church. Perhaps easiest to park by the church and walk on Porlier,1 – near the cathedral) Bar and restaurant with menú Jardines de Marisol – Parrillada / In the beautiful Parque Natural de Ponga, this is a simple, old up into the village – the restaurant is on the right. del día. Casa Ramón (Under the arches of the Fontán) Good Merendero MAP REF: D2 fashioned restaurant serving good, honest, regional food, for appetizers at the bar or outside tables. El Raitán (Plaza Tel: (0034) 985 869 029 / 628440058 getting increasingly difficult to find these days. Fabada, pote Up from the port, past the lighthouse and turn right after El Trascorrales, 6) Fancy, with an expensive menu de degustación. This tiny restaurant/hotel, run by a young and talented Centro de Salud and then left – near Hotel Villa asturiano and kid amongst their specialities. They do a hearty couple, is a real find – and a surprise, hidden away as it is in Tel: (0034) 985 640 045 menú del día – very tasty and very generous helpings. Casa Fermin MAP REF: H3 the charming village of Gobiendo. Excellent locally sourced An informal type of restaurant with a terrace for eating out San Francisco, Nº 8, Oviedo. produce is cooked and served with the style and elegance when the weather allows, it specialises in grilled , pulpo Tel: (0034) 985 216 452 you might expect in an upmarket city establishment. In the Eastern Asturias: evenings it’s a la carte, but still exceptional value. (octopus), lacón cocido (hand of pork), grilled sardines, Established in 1924, Casa Fermin was the pioneer of Asturian grilled tuna fish. There is also a menú del día and of course Gijon to – a mixture of quality, iimagination and cider to wash it all down with! tradition using the best of local ingredients, things have not San Julian de Bimenes El Sport MAP REF: D2 changed. The founder’s son-in-law and his wife run this Casa Manuela MAP REF: I3 elegant restaurant serving some of the best food you will find In the port area. La Rula MAP REF: J2 On AS 251 between Nava and on the main in Oviedo. Expensive, but worth it for a special treat. Best to Tel: (0034) 985 641 078 Right in the port in Lastres street in San Julian de Bimenes. book in advance. Closed on Sundays. Another place to go in Luarca if you want a special fish meal. Tel: (0034) 985 850 143 Tel: (0034) 985 700 954 Expensive ( though they now do an excellent value menú del Just a simple bar, but with a nicely decorated restaurant at Do not be put off by the exterior of this restaurant – inside Ribadesella día), but stylish – very well presented and cooked food. They the back, this is a must for those staying at La Fazona, but they have a pleasant dining room and fish and seafood are have their own shellfish farm which is said to be one of the Casa del Rio MAP REF: K3 worth a detour if you want to explore cider country. their specialities. We had a superb paella and “necoras” best in the Bay of Biscay. Their “empanada de merluza” Christina, the young and expert cook, believes in using local (baby crabs) here. The girl who served us was friendly and Opposite turning to Llanes (AS263) as you go in to (hake pie) is their speciality and brings people from far and produce to create traditional Asturian dishes. Even the maize attentive. Ribadesella, next to the Capitania Maritima (large building wide to sample it. Booking is advised. Closed on Wednesdays flour they use is ground at one of the last existing watermills with flags) and in January. Casa Eutimio MAP REF: J2 Tel: (0034) 985 860 040 in Asturias! They do a great value menú del día during the week and a more expensive one at the weekends, but this Overlooking the sea and the fishing port of Lastres. Bright and airy with an old fashioned, -room style decor includes a bottle of Rioja. Their speciality is “arroz con pitu” Oviñana A long established family run restaurant, they specialise in and friendly service, this family run restaurant is very popular rice with their own free-range chickens. Don’t miss the fish and seafood which is bought at the local fish market. with the locals. Here you can expect to pay a little more than El Regueirín MAP REF: F3 delicious home-made puddings. Their specialities are “besugo à la espalda” (grilled sea the going rate but the menú del dia gives a wide choice of Driving into Oviñana from the main coastal road you will bream), crab bisque, squid in its own ink and fish and dishes so it’s almost “à la carte”. The local speciality, fabes see a faded painted sign “Sidrería”. Take right here and the fish and seafood platters. Fairly expensive. Closed on con almejas (white Asturian beans with clams), is the best restaurant is down at the end. Mondays. we’ve tried, they certainly don’t scrimp on the clams! La Cabaña del Mar MAP REF: J2 Tel: (0034) 985 596 113 Bar El Puerto MAP REF: J2 Villaviciosa Right on the beach of Playa La Griega, Colunga. A very reasonably priced, pleasant family run restaurant, In Lastres, at the bottom of the hill down to the port, this is Only open from 15th June to 15th September, there is nothing offering menú del día and à la carte dishes. Not open on Sundays. It does get very popular, so go there early. In the the bar/restaurant on the left as you enter the port area. El Roxu MAP REF: J2 fancy about this place, but the views from the terrace are warmer months there is a terrace for eating out. The food is With an interior bar/dining room plus a nice verandah at the fantastic and its fish and seafood couldn’t be fresher. Villaviciosa, on the corner of the main square in the town. good, honest, regional fare and the atmosphere is local and front for dining or just enjoying a drink, this bar offers simple A real old fashioned sidreria (cider bar) this, with a very high lively. One of the best places to have a hearty meal in the area. fresh food, especially fish and seafood, at reasonable prices, ceiling, a long bar and wooden tables and chairs. Miguel, the Western Asturias: and not just at regular mealtimes. Good for tapas or a fuller owner and his waiters take their cider pouring very seriously. El Café MAP REF: F3 meal. They serve delicious looking tapas at the bar and have an Luarca to Gijon (Opposite the church in the centre of the village) extensive menu of raciónes and dishes of the region. Choose A family run restaurant, but with a pricier menú del día than Pando your fresh locally caught fish and have it baked in the oven Luarca others and they stop serving this after 3.00 p.m. Their “fabes with potatoes and cider. It is exquisite. Worth making a trip. Hotel / Restaurante Pagadín MAP REF: G4 con almejas” (beans with clams) are excellent; they also Medium priced. El Barómetro MAP REF: D2 specialise in seafood (they have a fish tank at the reception Pando is signposted off the motorway just after Ribadesella Paseo del Muelle, 5 – in the port area desk). There is a bar next door, belonging to the same family as you go towards Oviedo and the restaurant is signposted Gijón Tel: (0034) 985 470 662 where they serve racíones. in the village. This small, family run restaurant would go at the top of our Tel: (0034) 985 860 068 Casa Victor MAP REF: I2 list anywhere. Quite pricey, but well worth it, with a good, San Martín de Luiña A very special place this, both as a little hotel and restaurant. Calle del Carmen, 11, bajo relaxing, unpretentious atmosphere – a great place to go for It is lovingly decorated and comfortably furnished and has a Tel: (0034) 985 350 093 a special occasion. They specialise in fish and seafood – their El Rosal MAP REF: F2 very pretty garden. The owners will do their best to please Right in the centre of Gijón, this restaurant would not be the fish soup is excellent – but also have other dishes. If you In the centre of the village you in every way. The dining room is light and airy and the same without its owner whom the local clientele like to call order fish, the owner will come to the table with the choice The owner (Ruben) can be a little moody, but do not be put walls decorated with the owner’s paintings. The food is more Vitorón (Big Vic). He is an old authority on fishing and he has got and you can choose what takes your fancy. They off by this –he has a good restaurant with a new dining room of the “” style, very attractively presented. culinary matters, but what is more important is his fondness have a very good wine list too. and a terrace for eating out. They specialise in “pote de Quite pricey, but worth it for a special occasion. for what he has in hand and the passion for things to be as berzas” (an Asturian bean based stew), jabalí, cordero,

4 Asturias Casas Cantabricas Restaurant & Food Guide Asturias 5 ternera asada and arroz con leche and offer a very good, Restaurante/Hotel Canero MAP REF: E2 building, is very attractively decorated and furnished and the Comfortable, family run restaurant with freshly caught fish reasonably priced menú del día. On the old N634 between Luarca and Trevias just before the food is imaginative and interesting. It is honestly priced and seafood, their pride. Try the fish and seafood soup and village of Canero, 300m from Playa de Cueva. considering the quality and care put into the cooking. A don’t miss out on their homemade puddings. Muñalen specialplace to go if you are going for a day out to that area. Tel: (0034) 985 475 003 Restaurante El Sibarita MAP REF: F2 Casa Luciano MAP REF: D3 Rosa and her husband will give you a warm welcome here. A Busto In San Juan de La Arena, between the estuary and La Playa 2 km. from Navelgas, on AS219 from Luarca, direction Pola simple, but comfortable bar/restaurant serving good home de Los Quebrantos. regional cooking at very reasonable prices. Raciónes, menú de Casa Cuty MAP REF: E2 Tel: (0034) 985 586 475 del día and à la carte all on offer. Navelgas is well worth a visit in itself as it has a “ panning” In the centre of the village of Busto, which is off the N632 A classic establishment with good views of the estuary and of museum – “Museo de los Batidores de Oro” and in Muñalen between Cadavedo and Luarca. San Esteban across the waters. Fish and seafood are their there is also another interesting museum “El Museo del Barcia Casa Cuty is the place to go for pulpo (octupus) and other specialities, but their menú del día ( a bit pricier than some, Bosque” (The Forest Museum). This is a very simple little Mesón Tía Maria MAP REF: B4 raciónes. It is just a simple village bar, but with a good local but worth it) is very popular and can include rice with lobster, restaurant run by an old couple. They do a menú del día at atmosphere and the food is fresh and hearty at a reasonable a fish or meat dish to follow and then a delicious homemade Just before Luarca on the old N632. lunchtime – you just take what is on offer. A worthwhile price. pudding. Their seafood paella is very tempting too. Best to experience. This is an old fashioned mesón where Quintina, the owner, reserve a table at the weekends. serves tasty home cooking at reasonable prices. Menú del día San Esteban de Grado available, but they usually only serve food at lunchtimes. Taberna El Puerto MAP REF: F2 Western Asturias: Hostal / Restaurante Narcea MAP REF: F3 Playa La Concha de Artedo Along the front in the interesting old-fashioned seaside town Inland from Muros de Nalón, 10km from Pravia of San Esteban de Pravia. Castropol to Luarca Casa Miguel MAP REF: F2 Tel: (0034) 985 751 274 Tel: (0034) 985 580 130 On the seafront. Grado has the best market in Asturias (from local knowledge) A lovingly decorated in seafarers’ fashion bar/restaurant. A simple bar/restaurant serving excellent fish and seafood. on Wednesdays and Sundays so it is worth combining a visit Frank, the owner,will do his best to look after you. Simple, Medium price range. Parking is tricky, especially in the summer. Mesón Amaido MAP REF: B3 here with a meal at this restaurant. Do not be put off by the traditional Asturian food at sensible prices. Good value menú In the village of San Tirso de Abres – follow signs for the exterior appearance. Their menú del día has an extensive del día with some interesting dishes. Camping Amaido Complejo Agroturístico. range of regional dishes at reasonable prices – excellent value Cudillero Tel: (0034) 985 476 394 for money. Somao El Remo MAP REF: F2 A simple, but special little restaurant in the pretty village Piedras Blancas In the port. Las Columnas MAP REF: F2 where Franco used to come to fish salmon in the river Eo. It This is the best place to go for tapas and raciónes. They have On the left on the road as you drive through the village from has an attractive bar and beamed dining room decorated Restaurante Sidrería Los Cires a dining room upstairs. Muros de Nalon. It has coloumns outside. with paintings and “objects” from the region. Home-cooked regional food using natural produce. The tasty menú del día A simple family run cider bar/restaurant serving racíones and MAP REF: G2 is fresh and very nicely presented and is exceptional value for full . Tasty home cooking – try the pulpo! Calle Ramiro I, Nº 9. in the town centre not far from the money. They have their own specialities which you need to La Fuyeca MAP REF: F4 town hall (Ayuntamiento), best to park close to the town Muros de Nalon order in advance. It is a very good choice for those staying at hall, go along Calle Rey Pelayo till you come to Calle Between Pravia and . Carretera del Puerto – on the Pazo Terrafieta or Finca “O” Bizzaro or for those who want a Ramiro I. main road in the village of Belmonte de Miranda. Casa Zoilo MAP REF: F2 day out from houses in Viveiro or Western Asturias. Tel: (0034) 985 532 646 Tel: (0034) 985 762 338 Calle El Parador, 1. On N632 just before you reach Muros de A bustling, very popular little restaurant with a small patio at A small, cosy, inexpensive family run bar/ restaurant serving Ñalón. La Caridad traditional dishes of the region either menú del día or à la the back, a tank with seafood and barbecue. Great value Tel: (0034) 985 583 332 Casa Quinto MAP REF: C2 menú del día – plenty of choice and good service, but you carte. They have a very good wine list too. Always busy Established in 1939, the proprietors of this restaurant believe On the main road through the village of La Caridad. may have to wait for a table as it does get very busy at when we have been there. in keeping old traditions going. They pride themselves on Tel: (0034) 985 637 397 lunchtimes. Genuine local food and you certainly will not go their typical Asturian dishes and their professional service. This restaurant looks very simple from the outside,but has a hungry here. Malleza They have a good value menú del día during the week and pleasant dining room and a very good reputation. Clients at weekends (slightly more expensive). Closed on Mondays. Ballota Casa Manolo MAP REF: F2 return time and time again. José. the manager is very proud In the village of La Arquera on the road between Pravia and of what they offer. They specialise in seafood and fish and Casa Fernando MAP REF: E2 Salas. San Juan de La Arena have many dishes combining these with rice, potatoes and Ballota – in the village. Ballota is signposted off the Tel: (0034) 985 835 882 Restaurante Las Malvinas MAP REF: F2 beans. Their speciality is “patatas con bogavante” – a and lobster stew. They also have a menú del día. motorway. A simple, family run establishment with great home cooking. Calle Marqués de Agudín s/n, San Juan de la Arena. To the A long way into Asturias, past Cudillero, this restaurant, Portions are huge. The menú del día is excellent value. You right off the Avenida de Quebrantos going towards the beach. Navia professionally run by Fernando who is efficient and helpful, is can eat in the bar (smokers allowed) or in the restaurant (no- Tel: (0034) 985 586 124 extremely popular with locals and people come from as far smoking). If you are planning a day trip to nearby Malleza Family run restaurant (since 1985) with bar, dining room, MAP REF: C2 away as Oviedo to lunch or dine. Regional food, good value “La Pequeña ” – there is alovely route from Muros de Sidreria La Villa terrace and children’s playground. Modern decor and menú del día,. They specialise in fish and seafood and you Nalón on the coast this is the place to go for a good hearty Calle Campoamor, 4. In the old part of Navia. furnishings. Fiendly service. Menú del día and special can get snacks and raciónes in the bar. meal. Tel: (0034) 985 624 884 weekend menú available as well as à la carte. Fish and meat A long established sidreria (cider house) which has recently dishes using local produce, BBQ and homemade puddings Al Son del Indiano MAP REF: F2 been refurbished to give it a stylish modernist touch. Cider Canero their speciality. Racíones as well as full meals. Plaza del Conde de Casares, 1 Malleza. In the main square though is still poured in the old fashioned dramatic way and MAP REF: E2 Casa Amparo of the village. Restaurante Escondidas MAP REF: F2 the food ( you can have tapas or a full meal) is regional and Just off N632 between Luarca and Ballota. traditional and nicely presented and reasonably priced. Tel: (0034) 985 835 844 In San Juan de la Arena between the Río Nalón and La Playa A very nice little restaurant this, attractively decorated and Malleza, tucked away in the beautiful hills between Pravia de lLos Quebrantos. friendly service. Good home cooking – well presented and and Salas is known as the Little Havana and this lovely little 0034 985 586316 cheap. Easy parking. restaurant forms part of it. It is housed in a lovingly restored

6 Asturias Casas Cantabricas Restaurant & Food Guide Asturias 7 La Baracola MAP REF: C2 Ortiguera Calle Las Armas, 15. In the old quarter of Navia next to the town hall “ayuntamiento”. Restaurante Cenador Ferpel MAP REF: C2 Tel: (0034) 985 474 528 On the western side of the port of Ortiguera. With high ceilings and stone walls, this popular restaurant Tel: (0034) 985 473 285 serves traditional Asturian food with interesting touches. With panoramic views of the coast and the lighthouse of They have a varied menu, but specialise in fish and seafood. Ortiguera, this restaurant has an imaginative and creative Quite expensive. They open from 13.00-16.00 and 20.30 – menu and prides itself on using local produce. It specialises in 23.00. (Closed on Mon. evenings & Tues. except in August). freshly caught fish and seafood – the sea bream baked in salt to be recommended, but also has meat dishes. The highlight Sidreria La Magaya MAP REF: C2 is the foie gras/apple/ham and goat cheese starter. Calle Regueral 9, Navia. By the quayside on the estuary. Tel: (0034) 985 630 433 A typical Asturian cider house with a great buzz at weekends, good service and reasonably priced. They do pinchos and Restaurante El Prado MAP REF: C3 raciones and main dishes too. Boal is 25 km inland on AS 12 from Navia. El Prado is in the Parilla Bar K MAP REF: C2 centre of Boal near the church. Avenida La Darsena 13. Navia. By the shipyard on the estuary. Tel: (0034) 985 620 473 Tel: (0034) 985 473 763 If you are staying in Ortiguera and feel like a day’s exploring A family run bar/restaurant with a terrace for eating out, inland then you might like to try a trip to Boal and the they specialise in Argentinian style barbequed meat, but also beautiful countryside around there and include a meal at El have other dishes and a reasonably priced menú del día. Prado. This is home cooking in capital letters and very reasonable considering the quality of the ingredients. Puerto de Vega Traditional Asturian dishes – hearty soups and stews, meat and fish dishes and tempting local puddings, some using the La Gaviota MAP REF: D2 delicious local honey. The varied menú del día is highly Puerto de Vega is signposted off N634 between Otur and recommended and excellent value. Navia. When you reach the port La Gaviota is the first bar on the right. Tel: (0034) 985 648 223 La Gaviota is just a simple, friendly, family bar/restaurant Mesón As Cortes MAP REF: C4 with a small terraza in the lovely old port of Puerto de Vega. Pesoz is 70 km inland from Navia. Mesón As Cortes is in the José, the owner and his wife will look after you well. They do village. tapas, menú del día, fish and seafood and paella to order. Tel: (0034) 985 627 018 Very reasonably priced. If you are staying at Ortiguera and feel like a full day out, exploring inland, you can do a round route taking the AS 12 La Marina MAP REF: D2 to Pesoz and returning on the AS 13 via . All Puerto de Vega is signposted off the N634 between Otur beautiful countryside. Pesoz is in “honey country”. As Cortes and Navia. La Marina is in the port area on your left. is a traditional style mesón with a cosy dining room. Tel: (0034) 985 648 038 Traditional Asturian dishes using top quality local ingredients. A very popular sidreria /restaurant with a few tables outside. Well worth stopping off at. Friendly and professional. Excellent for fish and seafood, but they also have meat dishes. They have “gastronomic “ days when they feature a special menu. Try the rice with clams if they have it – superb! Medium priced.

8 Asturias Casas Cantabricas Restaurant & Food Guide 9 Best recent years for Rioja be patient –vegetarianism really has not taken off in this part of Spain yet. A vegetarian friend of ours 2001, 2004, 2008, 2009, 2010 and 2011. Some typical dishes Hints on eating says she can often get a good meal by saying she Hard on the heels of Rioja, are the excellent full Starters is on a special diet which does not include meat or bodied reds of Ribera del Duero (voted best wine Sopa de fideos - chicken fish. region of the year 2012) (most recent best year Sopa de pescado - fish soup out in Spain 2010) and they too are categorized. Your pocket Sopa de marisco - seafood soup Eating Times Children might not be able to stretch to the supposedly” Children too may have difficulty in finding best” wine in Spain “Vega Sicilia”, but there is Cocido montañés - the local bean based stew with Spaniards here mainly eat out at lunchtime so this something that suits their tastes, but there are plenty of choice out there - names such as Protos, greens and sausages is when the food is prepared, especially in the nearly always chips and it is worth asking for Prado Rey and Pesquera will be on all the worthy Lentejas - lentils - usually cooked with chorizo (a simpler establishments. Although people do eat out meatballs and the like. wine lists, but if you are lucky to come across a spicy ) morcilla (like black pudding) and in the evenings you will probably be offered a humbler (pricewise) but very drinkable Fuentenarro tocino (salt pork) more varied menu at midday. Some places have In general here people try their best to – try it! Alubias con chorizo - a haricot bean based stew more on offer at the weekends, on feast days and please: ¡Buen Provecho! These two great wine growing regions apart, up Alubias viudas - a haricot bean based stew, but in the summer. Eating times: midday 1.00-3.30; without any of the normal sausages evening: 8/8.30-10.30 (times vary depending on and coming wines are being produced in many dif- Garbanzos - a chick pea stew restaurant). ferent areas of Spain, notably El Bierzo (Leon Wine province), Navarra, Toro, Extremadura, La Mancha Patatas con carne or ragut - a stew with more Do not expect full meals at times other than these, There has been a revolution in the wine world in and Penedes. All very drinkable and all very exciting! potatoes than meat but if you would like to eat at say six in the Spain over the last decade and now, not only does Menestra de verduras - a mixture of boiled and evening then choose a bar offering “platos Spain have the greatest extension of vineyards in White wines fried , sometimes with some cured ham combinados” – a set main course – often steak, , it is also, with the latest technology, a great For lively and refreshing white wines “vino added egg and chips or chicken and chips and salad. variety of grapes and super fast fermentation meth- verdejo” from the Rueda wine growing region in Fabada - Asturian bean stew with sausages ods, one of the top producers of fine wine in the the province of Valladolid are becoming increasingly Alubias con almejas - beans cooked with clams Tipping and Prices world. Long gone is that image of gut rotting plonk popular – chosen by the King Juan Carlos for his Marmitako - a tuna based soup normally with Normally the amount we tip, as is local custom, of the sixties. son’s wedding, they are crisp and fruty and very peppers, paprika and potatoes depends on how satisfied we have been with the In even small towns, apart from the usual bars and reasonably priced. Sorroputún - a tuna fish and potato soup from San meal. In more sophisticated restaurants 10% is the bodegas, you will come across sophisticated The glorious, golden coloured “Godellos” from Vicente de la Barquera norm, while in humbler establishments it will be a “vinotecas” (wine bars), specialising in the best Valdeorras in southern Galicia and El Bierzo are full Macarrones - macaroni cooked in a tomato sauce little less. wines from all over the country and even simpler bodied and full of flavour and excellent value and often with chorizo or ham NB. Many places now take credit cards, but not all, restaurants will be able to offer you a good choice the young and aromatic whites from Penedes in Pudin de cabracho - a cooked especially in the villages. from different regions. Catalonia go down really well with fish and fish paté For many of the restaurants listed we comment on Red Wines seafood. Ensaladilla rusa - a potato and salad the cost of meals. As a rough guide menú del día with mayonnaise, sometimes with fish starts at approximately 9 euros per person in Red wine wise, Rioja is still tops and on a wine list The king of white wine in Spain though has to be Revuelto - like scrambled eggs, mixed with prawns, simpler establishments and can be up to 25 euros in a restaurant these wines will be divided into the Albariño from south west Galicia, the native grape peppers, garlic shoots, etc. in more sophisticated restaurants (2013 prices). following categories: variety, albariño, only grown in this region in the Average à la carte prices are more, and obviously world. Internationally renowned, this pale golden Main Courses Cosechero/Joven crisp, elegant and fresh wine is said to be most out- depend very much on what you choose to eat. Callos - tripe (normally cooked in a spicy sauce Wine from the harvest of the year. standing from, the Val de Salnes Condado de Sal- with chorizo, ham and garlic) Crianza vatierra and El Rosal in the province of Pontevedra. Vegetarians Albondigas - meatballs cooked in sauce In the delightful, coastal town of Cambados there is From the list of basic ingredients you will see that This category corresponds to wines which are in at an annual fiesta of Albariño in mid-August where Lechazo - baby lamb no consideration is given to the true vegetarian; least their third year and have spent a minimum of wines are judged by expert tasters and are available Chuletillas de lechazo - baby lamb cutlets this is normally so in restaurants too-even a one year in oak casks. to the public. Filete - steak (often a bit on the tough side though “menestra” (a mixture of boiled and fried Reservas tasty) vegetables) will often have some kind of meat in it. Wines with a minimum of 3 years’ ageing between Also from southern Galicia and not to be missed is Chuleta de ternera - chop However, almost everywhere you will find a fresh cask and bottle and at least one year in the oak cask. Ribeiro, a light and refreshing white, traditionally served in tazas (little white ceramic bowls), but now Chuletón - like a ‘T’ bone steak salad and a good ‘tortilla de patatas’ (potato Gran Reserva you will usually be given it in a glass. Perfect with a Pollo - chicken omelette) if you ask for it. These are wines from exceptional vintages which tapa of pulpo or empanada! Conejo We have tried to emphasise places that will do have been aged for a minimum of two years in oak - rabbit their best to accommodate vegetarians, but please casks and three years in the bottle. Salud, dinero y amor! Carne asada - pot-roasted meat Solomillo - fillet steak

36 Hints on eating out in Spain | Wine Casas Cantabricas Restaurant & Food Guide Wine | Some typical dishes 37 Jabalí - sometimes ignited with anisette ... delicious Venado - venison Arroz con leche - , usually eaten warm A few recipes from Spain Cabrito - kid or cold - it can be very good indeed Flan de la casa/casero - homemade caramel custard Cordónices - quail Merluza a la Gallega flour and then into the beaten eggs. Fry in hot oil at least Zancarrón - a meat stew Tarta de manzana - apple tart half-inch deep. Drain and put them onto a serving dish and (Hake, Galician Style) Pimientos rellenos - stuffed peppers Tartas de la casa - different types of cakes often sprinkle with some sugar and cinnamon. Serve warm. made on the premises or by a good local baker Ingredients: NB. One teaspoon of anisette liqueur can be poured over Sesos rebozados - brains fried in (for 6 people) each square and ignited to make leche frita al anis. Lomo - loin of pork Cuajada - rennet pudding, normally eaten with 6 hake steaks honey 1 kilo potatoes Fish and Seafood Natillas - a homemade custard, sometimes served 100grs. of peas (tinned or frozen) Tortilla Espanola (Spanish Potato Omellete) Merluza - hake (sometimes cooked in batter or a la in an earthenware dish with a caramelised topping 1 dessertspoon paprika cazuela - in a wine based sauce with asparagus 6 tablespoons olive oil Ingredients: 4 cloves of garlic and red peppers among other ingredients) Tapas/Raciones (for 6 people) (Snacks – if you order a few you can make a chopped parsley 4 potatoes Cabracho - no translation - a bit like rock fish - has salt delicious meal of them). 1 onion a delicate flavour, good baked in the oven water 4 eggs Croquetas - croquettes, usually with a cheese or Bonito - like tuna Preparation: olive oil chicken and ham filling salt Rape - angler fish - like skate in appearance, makes Peel the potatoes and cut into thick slices and put them Rabas - squid fried in batter into a saucepan along with a clove of garlic, the chopped excellent eating Preparation: Pulpo - octupus, usually cooked gallego style, parsley and salt. Cover with water and with a lid on the Peel the potatoes and slice thinly. Chop the onion. Put Trucha - trout (often stuffed with cured ham) sprinkled with paprika and olive oil pan, boil gently until the potatoes are half cooked. Then lay these into a bowl and sprinkle with salt and mix. Rodaballo - turbot the hake steaks on top of them and add the peas. Mejillones - mussels Half fill a frying pan with oil and heat this. Add the potato Continue cooking until the potatoes and fish are done Lenguado - sole and onion mixture and ‘boil’ them in the oil until they are Pincho moruno - like small, spicy kebabs. (about ten minutes). Meanwhile heat the olive oil in a cooked. Drain off the oil – the easiest way to do this is by Lubina - bass frying pan and add the chopped garlic. When it is nicely Chorizo a la sidra - chorizo cooked in cider putting the potato and onion mixture in a sieve. Allow to browned stir in the paprika and remove from the heat. Pescadilla - whiting Champiñones al ajillo - mushrooms in garlic sauce cool. Meanwhile beat the eggs and then add the cooled When the fish and potatoes are done, drain off the liquid, Bocartes - fresh anchovies Empanadillas - turnovers stuffed with tuna or meat mixture to these. Stir well. Then heat a little oil in the frying reserving a little to add to the paprika sauce. Place the pan until it is smoking. Pour in the egg mixture, rapidly Sardinas - sardines (smaller than the Mediterranean filling potatoes on a serving dish and lay the fish steaks on top. variety and tastier) spreading it out in the pan. Lower the heat to medium high Aceitunas - olives Return the frying pan to the flame, add the reserved liquid and shake the pan often to prevent sticking. Bacalao - salt cod (usually cooked in tomato sauce) Jamón - cured ham and bring to the boil. Pour this over the fish and the potatoes. When the potatoes begin to brown underneath place a Calamares en su tinta - squid in its own ink Mollejas - sweetbread plate over the frying pan and flip the tortilla onto the plate. Langostinos - giant prawns Asadurilla - pig's fry Leche Frita Then slide the tortilla back into the pan. Lower the heat to Gambas al ajillo - prawns cooked with garlic medium. After a minute or two turn again – then slide onto Morcilla - like black pudding, but spicier (‘Fried Milk’) a serving plate. Serve warm or cold. Almejas a la marinera - clams cooked in a white Almejas - baby clams Ingredients: wine sauce with parsley Queso - cheese (for 6 people) Marmitako Langosta 1 litre of milk - lobster Boquerones en vinagre - marinated smelts (Bonito and Potato Soup - from Bar El Muelle, Comillas) Mero - grouper 1 coffee cup of sugar Caracolillos - sea snails 1 small stick of cinnamon Ingredients: Angulas - baby eels Pimientos con anchoas - red peppers with anchovies peel of half a lemon (for 6 people) Bogavante - large lobster 50 grs. butter 1/2 kilo potatoes, peeled and cubed Cangrejo de mar - crab Pinchos 3 dessertspoons of flour 1/2 kilo bonito, skinned and cubed Pinchos are small appetizers normally available all 2 eggs 1 large onion Percebes - goose barnacles (considered a great day through in the town bars. They help to fill the oil for frying 1 green pepper delicacy here) flour 1 dried chilli gap between and lunch or the gap at any Parrillada de pescado - a platter of grilled fish 1 glass of white wine time in fact! Mostly they are displayed on the bar Preparation: olive oil, salt Bring the milk with the lemon peel, cinnamon and sugar to Parrillada de marisco - a platter of grilled seafood counters, but if not just say: water the boil. Lower the heat and simmer for 10 minutes. Dame un pincho de: For tomato sauce: Puddings Melt the butter in a saucepan and add the flour and stir for 1 tin chopped tomatoes (tomate titurado) or fresh chopped tortilla - potato omelette In general puddings are simple. You will normally two minutes. Then gradually pour in the hot milk and go tomatoes be offered helado (ice-cream) flan (caramel Lomo - a slice of loin of pork on stirring until the mixture is smooth. Simmer for five olive oil, salt Chorizo - spiced sausage minutes, stirring at intervals. Then remove the lemon peel 1 teaspoon paprika custard) or fruta (fruit), but sometimes you will be and cinnamon stick. Pour into a greased shallow dish. pleasantly surprised by the following: Other pinchos could be a quarter of a toasted Leave to cool and then refrigerate until the custard Preparation: Leche frita - ‘fried milk’ - a kind of custard which is sandwich or a piece of fried fish on a piece of becomes hard. Chop the onion and pepper finely and saute in the olive oil until they are lightly browned. Add the chilli and the cubed bread - just keep your eyes open! When it is cold cut into two-inch squares, dip them into fried and then sprinkled with sugar and cinnamon, potatoes and stir around for a few minutes. Cover with

38 Some typical dishes Casas Cantabricas Restaurant & Food Guide A few recipes from Spain 39 water, add salt and bring to the boil. Boil gently until the potatoes are cooked. Pollo al Ajillo (Garlic Chicken) Meanwhile, make the tomato sauce by heating some olive Useful phrases in Spanish Ingredients: oil in a pan. When hot, add the chopped tomatoes, salt 1 chicken or chicken pieces (about 1.5kg) and paprika. Cover the pan with a lid and let this mixture 4 tablespoons olive oil If you are non-Spanish speakers the following carne de vaca (beef) boil gently for about 10 minutes. 1 whole head of garlic might be of help to you when you are out pollo (chicken) When the potatoes are cooked, add the white wine, about 4 tablespoons Spanish brandy shopping... Different cuts: half of the tomato sauce and the bonito. Cover the pan Salt and pepper with a lid and cook for 15-20 minutes. Make sure you ¿Donde esta?: (Where is) carne picada (mince) have enough water to make a nice thick soupy Preparation: la carniceria (butcher's) lomo (loins) Chop the chicken into pieces (not too big), and pat dry. consistency. la pescaderia (fishmonger's) olomillo (fillet) Put the oil in a frying pan or shallow casserole over a Once cooked, remove from the heat and let it rest for a la fruteria (greengrocer's) falda (skirt) while before eating with good fresh crusty bread. moderate heat; once hot, add the chicken and cook, turning from time to time, until it is golden brown. la panaderia (baker's) chuletas (chops Meanwhile either peel the garlic and whizz it in a food la farmacia (chemists) chuleton (T bone steak) Fabada Asturiana processor, or crush it through a garlic press. Keep a little of la pasteleria (cake shop) chuletillas (baby chops) the crushed garlic to one side. rinones (kidneys) (Asturian Bean Stew) la libreria (book shop) Add the rest of the garlic to the chicken, grind a generous el estanco (tobacconist's where they sell stamps) higado (liver) Ingredients: sprinkling of pepper over, and then add the brandy. el banco (bank) panceta de cerdo (belly of pork) 1/2 kilo dried white beans Careful now! Set light to the brandy and as it flames stir the costillas de cerdo (pork spare ribs) 1/4 kilo panceta (slab ) chicken pieces around (with a long handled implement!), correos (post office) 2 chorizos la ferreteria ( monger's) solomillo frances (beef for pot roasting) morcilla del ano Once the flames have died down, lower the heat, cover 1 (smoked black pudding) filete (steak) 1 hambone or knuckle the pan, and cook gently till the chicken is cooked through Quiero: (I'd like) 1 onion – start testing after 20 minutes, the juices should run clear. un kilo pechuga de pollo (chicken breast) 1 whole head of garlic Once ready, sprinkle with salt and the reserved garlic and medio kilo alas de pollo (chicken wings) serve. 1 small hot red pepper un cuarto de kilo muslos de pollo (chicken legs) 1 bayleaf carne para guisar (estofar) (stewing steak) salt Patatas Pobres cien gramos 2 tablespoons olive oil de (of) salchichas (sausages (Poor Man’s Potatoes) 2 cloves garlic crushed patatas (potatoes) Useful phrases when out shopping: 1 dessertspoon paprika Ingredients: 750g potatoes judias (beans) ¿Que quiere? (What would you like?) Preparation: Olive oil – about 3 tablespoons guisantes (peas) ¿Quiero un kilo de... (I'd like...) Soak beans overnight in cold water. 2 cloves garlic, crushed cebollas (onions) ¿Quien es el siguiente? (Who's next?) The next day put the beans in fresh water in a very large 1 tablespoon parsley, chopped zanahorias (carrots) pan with the bayleaf, the whole head of garlic, hot red Salt and pepper Yo. (Me) pepper, chorizos, panceta, morcilla and ham bone. Bring pimientos (peppers) ¿Quien es la ultima? (el ultimo?)(Who is the last in Preparation: to the boil, cover pan and simmer slowly for about two alcachofas (artichokes) the queue?) Peel and slice (about ½ cm thick) the potatoes. hours, skimming if necessary. calabacines (courgettes) Algo mas? (Anything else?) Heat the oil in a frying pan, and add the potatoes, When everything is thoroughly cooked, remove the head berenjenas (aubergines) No, eso es todo. (No, that's all) of garlic, the bay leaf and the onion. Taste for salt. In a sprinkling with salt and a little grinding of pepper as you small frying pan heat the oil, garlic and paprika until the layer them, then gently turn them over. champinones (mushrooms) Si, deme otro kilo de... (Yes, give me...) garlic begins to sizzle. Add this to the beans and stir. It's Cover the pan and cook on a low heat; turn the potatoes espinacas (spinach) ¿Cuanto es? (How much is it?) best to leave the fabada to sit for a while and it's even from time to time, and continue cooking till they are tender. alcegas (swiss chard) ¿Que desea? (Can I help you?) better the next day. Remove the lid, turn up the heat and let the bottom layer tomates (tomatoes) Quiero cambiar veinte libras. (I'd like to change £20) of potatoes brown a bit. To serve, reheat and transfer to a large casserole dish una lechuga (a lettuce) arranging the meats, cut up, on top. Finally add the garlic and parsley, and serve. Cooking Terms una coliflor (a cauliflower) A la parilla (barbequed) una cabeza de ajo (a head of garlic) A la plancha (grilled) una col (a cabbage) A la romana/rebozada (in batter) At the butcher's: this can be confusing, frustrating A la cazuela (cooked in an earthenware dish) and difficult as meat is cut in a different way in Al ajillo (cooked with plenty of garlic) Spain and much of it filetes - steak! Al horno (roasted in the oven) Different types of meat: A la gallega (prepared with paprika and oil) cerdo (pork) Escabechado (marinated in oil and vinegar) ternera (veal) Salteado (sautéed) lechazo (baby lamb) Al tresviso (with blue cheese sauce) cordero (lamb) Frito (fried)

40 A few recipes from Spain Casas Cantabricas Restaurant & Food Guide Useful phrases in Spanish 41