GRAUBÜNDEN Graubünden Graubünden 262 © LonelyPlanetPublications scattered across the canton, led by those of Vals andScuol. acrossthecanton,ledbythoseofVals scattered are Several thethermalbaths. And don’tforget resorts ofStMoritz,DavosandKlosters? intourism.Whohasn’theard oftheultra-chicskiIndeed, halfthepopulationisinvolved industry. beenpropelledtowealthbythedazzlingwinter-sports scale farming,othershave NaziunalSvizzer). (Parc the SwissNationalPark oldest)nationalpark, Graubündenisalsohometothecountry’sonly(andEurope’s lakes. than11,000kmofwalkingmore trails,1500kmofdownhillski than600 slopes and more awaits discovery. Engadine,muchuntamedbeautyand bucolicvillagecharm ern valleystothepicturesque west- valleys andlowerhillsofthis,thecountry’sbiggestcanton.Fromlittleexplored the beendrapedover seemtohave felt carpetsofdeep-green be rough-emerald? Great lostinthepicture-perfect ofthecountry.Orshouldthat edge largely hamletsoftherest arough-diamondrural villagesthatretain scattered that sliceuptheruggedlandscapeare is so,well,wild. youinadmiringtones, Grishun),manySwissfromothercantonswilltell (Grisons, Grigioni, Graubünden you’llspoilthepostcard. like youshouldn’t touchanythingforfear that itfeels tidy,soirritatinglyperfect issoutterly can’thelpfeeling), told(andoften weare Switzerland, HIGHLIGHTS But Graubündeniswildinanotherway.Ifmanycountryvillagesstill getbyonsmall- Beyond theancientcapital,Chur,cantonisalittleshort butboasts onhighculture pockmarked. Inthecountlessvalleys mostlynarrow,windingandoften roadsare The and Being mesmerisedbythevividCarolingian villagesthatline the thepretty Discovering inthe Vals atTherme thewaters Taking Wandering thewildopenspacesin sports inwinter andone’sselfintheresortsIndulging of POPULATION: 186,100 POPULATION: ( p280) of atthemonastery Romanesque frescoes ( p278) Zuoz especially valleys oftheEngadineregion, townof picturesque National Park Davos ( p281), ( p276) and Scuol ( p280) St Moritz ( p279) and Vals ( p271) AREA: 7105 SQKM ( p282) Guarda Swiss Swiss Müstair LANGUAGE: GERMAN, ROMANSCH &ITALIAN ROMANSCH GERMAN, LANGUAGE: Vals St Moritz Davos Zuoz Guarda National Swiss Park Müstair Scuol www.lonelyplanet.com 0 20 km GRAUBÜNDEN 0 12 miles To Zürich (81km); Sargans L I E C H T E N S T E I N To Munich (180km); Geneva (360km) Vienna (570km) Fläsch Sulzfluh Mels Heididorf (2817m) Tössens Maienfeld Bad Ragaz Jenins Bündner A U S T R I A SCHWYZ Malans Herrschaft St Antönien ST GALLEN Landquart Schiers Urnersee GLARUS Zizers Samnaun Fünf Küblis N28 Cassons A13 Dörfer Martina Vorab (2634m) Klosters (3028m) Gotschnagrat Piz Buin (2285m) Selfranga (3312m) i n N27 ad Chur Weissfluh Pischahorn g Rheinschlucht (2844m) Bos-cha e n Flims Wolfgang (2980m) t e r Un Inn Erstfeld Domat/Ems Weisshorn Tunnel Ftan Scuol Reichenau (2653m) Davos Guarda Laax Vulpera Falera N28 Bonaduz Arosa Flüela Schloss Rhäzüns Pass URI A13 Parpaner Jakobshorn Sagliains Tarasp (2590m)ὈὈSusch Ardez Rothorn Trun Ilanz g Valbella Surselva a l r i a e (2865m) z t Zernez b Domleschg Rinerhorn e n N19 n Disentis/ n e Lenzerheide e (2528m) i n m z Wassen Mustér Uors f Wiesen i u n Il Fuorn Vorderrhein a d Ofen L i Thusis S a Medelser- e Oberalp al St Martin Filisur g Pass V H Via n Göschenen Pass Schlucht e Parc l Mala Tiefencastel r N27 a e Naziunal N28 Müstair Tschamut Platta t b Puzatsch Vrin r O l e Zillis Bergün Svizzer V St Maria e s a l Albula S-chanf l Andermatt d a Vals Hinterrhein M VM e Sogn V Andeer Savognin Pass Zuoz üs t a ir M Gions l Piz Terri Preda La Punt a N13 V (3149m) Zervreila ὈὈ Splügen Lukmanier Lai da Zervreilasee N3 Samedan Sontga Celerina Pass A13 Piz Nair Muottas Muragl (2453m) Maria Zervreilahorn Splügen Alp Languard (3262m) Airolo (2898m) Passo Hinterrhein Pass (3057m) del San Pontresina Julier Pass St Moritz Bormio Bernardino Avers Morteratsch Silvaplana Piz Lagalb I T A L Y Rheinwaldhorn Sils- (2959m) (3402m) San Surlej N29 Bernardino Juf Maria Diavolezza (2973m) La Rösa TICINO Septimber Pass Maloja Piz Passo del Valbella Casaccia Bernina Alp Grum Mesocco Maloja Corvatsch (2091m) Val Pass (3451m) V Rossa Soazza Soglio Piz a Bregaglia N3 l a Bernina n Stampa P i Poschiavo GRAUBÜNDEN GRAUBÜNDEN (4049m) o A13 c Castasegna l s Lago di Promontogno c o Chiavenna h Poschiavo N13 s i e a v Grosotto Val Calanca M Pizzo Badile o e Grono l l (3308m) Brusio Roveredo a I T A L Y V Tirano Edolo Bellinzona Aprica-Teglio Lago di 263 Sondrio I T A L Y To Lugano (15km); Como To Milan To Milan Milan (89km) (89km) (142km) GRAUBÜNDEN 264 CHUR •• Orientation & Information www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com CHUR •• Sights & Activities 265 GRAUBÜNDEN History but may close in bad weather). These ap- MONEY senior & student/child under 16yr Sfr6/4/free; h10am- The canton’s openness to all-comers today proximately correspond to three exit points You can change money at the train station noon & 2-5pm Tue-Sun). Over three floors and is a far cry from its inward-looking and dif- into Italy: Maloja, Bernina and Fuorn/Ofen (h7am-8pm). A handy central bank with in the loft spreads a permanent exhibition fident past. Down through the centuries, the (all open year-round). The Oberalp Pass, the ATMs is the UBS branch on Poststrasse. that encapsulates much of what is known GRAUBÜNDEN people of this rugged area lived largely in route west to Andermatt, is closed in win- of the canton’s history. Displays include a isolated, rural pockets, mistrustful of out- ter but, as at Albula, there is the option of POST few Roman artefacts, coins, weapons and siders and, aided by the near impregnable taking the car-carrying train instead. Carry Post office (Postplatz, h7.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, armour, household items from down the mountain terrain, able to resist most would- snow chains or use winter tyres in winter. 8am-noon Sat) Just outside the Old Town. centuries and a section on Alpine rural tools be conquerors. Graubünden offers a regional transport and gizmos. In medieval times the region was known pass (Sfr120/150) valid for seven or 14 days TOURIST INFORMATION The nearby 1491 St Martinskirche (Martin- as Rhaetia, and was loosely bound by an from May to October. You get two/four Tourist office (%081 252 18 18; www.churtourismus splatz; hfor services) contains three stained- association of three leagues (Drei Bünde). days respectively of unlimited free travel .ch; Grabenstrasse 5; h1.30-6pm Mon, 8.30am-noon & glass windows by Augusto Giacometti. The modern name for the canton derives on all Rhätische Bahn (RhB) trains (which 1.30-6pm Tue-Fri, 9am-noon Sat) Has a town map that To get a better idea of the artistic legacy from the Grauer Bund, or Grey League. serve the canton), the SBB line between carries potted explanations of every conceivable sight. of Augusto (1877–1947), his cousin Gio- Graubünden joined the Swiss Confedera- Chur and Bad Ragaz, the RhB bus between vanni (1868–1933) and Giovanni’s son tion in 1803. Tirano and Lugano and postal buses within Sights & Activities Alberto (1901–66), head for the Bündner However, much more important was the the canton. For the remaining days of va- Apart from three surviving medieval towers Kunstmuseum (Museum of Fine Arts; %081 257 28 68; year 1864, when a local hotel owner in St lidity you pay half price. Throughout the and the late Romanesque-Gothic cathedral, www.buendner-kunstmuseum.ch; Postplatz; adult/senior & Moritz invited summer guests to stay over pass’s validity you will pay half price on the bulk of the old city dates to the 16th cen- student/child under 16yr Sfr10/5/free; h10am-noon & for the winter – for free. In this way, winter most cable cars and funiculars, the Furka– tury. A stroll reveals brightly painted façades 2-5pm Tue-Sun, to 8pm Thu). The Giacometti clan, tourism in Graubünden, and later all Swit- Oberalp line between Disentis/Mustér and along the mostly pedestrian-only streets. and Alberto in particular (all born in the zerland, was launched. Brig, and Davos city buses. Aside from what is mentioned below, the Val Bregaglia in southern Graubünden), are A winter version issued from 1 Novem- city is home to a series of second-tier mu- the only local artists to have made an im- Orientation & Information ber to 30 April (Sfr90) gives two days’ free seums, whose subjects range from wine to pression worldwide and their works occupy Two major rivers traverse the rugged ter- travel and three days’ half-price travel on sewing machines! much of the top floor of this art museum rain: the Rhine (with two main source riv- RhB trains in a seven-day period. It also The Obertor, just in from the Plessur river, (housed in a delightful 19th-century man- ers in the canton) and the Inn. The Alps gives you five days’ half-price travel on marks the main medieval entrance into the sion) dedicated to Graubünden artists. A stretch out across most of the region, which postal and Engadine buses. old town. Along with the stout, stone Malte- room on the ground floor is given over to explains why the canton is so sparsely pop- sertor (once the medieval powder and muni- works by Chur-born Angelika Kaufmann ulated – around 26 inhabitants per square tions tower), on the corner of Grabenstrasse (1741–1807), and in the basement are kilometre. The Septimber Pass, Julier Pass CHUR and Engadinstrasse, and the Sennhofturmn works by a host of contemporary artists, and Maloja Pass have been key transit (nowadays part of the city’s prison), it is all including Lenz Klotz and HR Giger. routes across the Alps since Roman times. pop 31,900 / elevation 585m that remains of the city’s defensive