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Graubünden 263 Graubünden

Graubünden 263 Graubünden

© Lonely Planet Publications 262 www.lonelyplanet.com GRAUBÜNDEN 263 GRAUBÜNDEN

Graubünden Tössens GRAUBÜNDEN VM

St Maria

r i (142km)

To a

t Vienna (570km)

s N27

To Munich (180km); ü

n Müstair

Martina i

d M

a

Samnaun g l

Scuol

n a N28

Switzerland, we are told (and often can’t help feeling), is so utterly tidy, so irritatingly perfect Edolo

e V 00 20 km 12 miles Pass

Ofen

r Vulpera

e

t

that it feels like you shouldn’t touch anything for fear you’ll spoil the postcard. Graubünden n U Schloss

(, Grigioni, Grishun), many Swiss from other cantons will tell you in admiring tones, I T A L Y Il Fuorn is so, well, wild. Bos-cha Lago di Poschiavo Parc La Rösa Sagliains o Svizzer (3312m) The roads are mostly narrow, winding and often pockmarked. In the countless valleys Piz Buin v Naziunal Guarda i a ch

(2091m) o s

Alp Grum P

(2959m) V n al

that slice up the rugged landscape are scattered villages that retain a rough-diamond rural i

Piz Lagalb d

a N27

Tunnel S-chanf g Aprica-

n

e N29

A U S T R I

edge largely lost in the picture-perfect hamlets of the rest of the country. Or should that r

e Alp Languard (3262m) (2980m) Pass b

Flüela

Pischahorn (2453m) O La Punt Bernina

be rough-emerald? Great carpets of deep-green felt seem to have been draped over the Passo del Piz Morteratsch N28 Bernina Selfranga (4049m) (2973m) Sondrio

valleys and lower hills of this, the country’s biggest canton. From the little explored west- Diavolezza ὈὈ ὈὈ Wolfgang Piz St Antönien (2590m) (2817m)

ern valleys to the picturesque Engadine, much untamed beauty and bucolic village charm Sulzfluh Pass St Moritz Surlej Jakobshorn (3451m) Küblis (2528m) Celerina Corvatsch I T A L Y awaits discovery. Rinerhorn (2285m) Maloja Gotschnagrat N28 Preda Pass Wiesen Sils- (3057m) Maloja Piz Nair Maria Beyond the ancient capital, , the canton is a little short on high culture but boasts Bergün Bündner N3 (2844m) Herrschaft Weissfluh

more than 11,000km of walking trails, 1500km of downhill ski slopes and more than 600 L I E C H T N S Promontogno (2865m) Rothorn Juf Parpaner N3

(2653m) Val Casaccia

lakes. Graubünden is also home to the country’s only (and Europe’s oldest) national park, Weisshorn

Fünf Malans (3308m) Dörfer Pizzo Badile Heididorf the (Parc Naziunal Svizzer). Chur A13 Soglio Septimber Pass Fläsch Via Mala Valbella Zillis

But Graubünden is wild in another way. If many country villages still get by on small-

Domat/Ems

Hinterrhein

Domleschg

Reichenau g (89km)

r

scale farming, others have been propelled to wealth by the dazzling winter-sports industry. e b H n e e i To Milan z A13 n N13 Indeed, half the population is involved in tourism. Who hasn’t heard of the ultra-chic ski Splügen Pass

Rheinschlucht

l

a

t

n

e S i f

resorts of St Moritz, Davos and Klosters? And don’t forget the thermal baths. Several are Rhäzüns a

Como

a n

i c

l Lago di

o

ST GALLEN s e

Laax M

e

l

scattered across the canton, led by those of Vals and . Splügen l Cassons (2634m) a

A13 A13 V Vals

Uors

St Martin

Ilanz

l

a

t

r

e

a Grono

i

s N13 z

l e

a

n

Geneva (360km)

Falera

To (81km); V

m Zervreila

San HIGHLIGHTS u

L Val Val

l Bernardino a Zervreilasee

Passo V del San (3028m) Rossa Indulging in winter sports and one’s self in the resorts of Bernardino Valbella Davos ( p276 ) and St Moritz ( p282 ) (3402m) Puzatsch

Wandering the wild open spaces in the Swiss (2898m) (3149m) Zervreilahorn

Trun National Park ( p280 ) Davos Scuol

Guarda N19

Taking the waters at Therme Vals in the

Medelser- Schlucht

Platta Surselva Maria Müstair Lai da Sontga Sogn

picturesque town of Vals ( p271 ) Vals Swiss Gions

Zuoz l e

d e

National M Milan (89km)

l

a Park / Mustér V Discovering the pretty villages that line the St Moritz To (15km); valleys of the Engadine region, especially Pass Tschamut

Zuoz ( p281 ), Scuol ( p279 ) and Guarda Lukmanier

( p278 ) Erstfeld Pass Oberalp Wassen Being mesmerised by the vivid Carolingian and Urnersee Romanesque frescoes at the monastery of Müstair ( p280 ) URI Göschenen I T A L Y

POPULATION: 186,100 AREA: 7105 SQ KM LANGUAGE: GERMAN, ROMANSCH & ITALIAN GRAUBÜNDEN GRAUBÜNDEN bula (summer only)andFlüela (year-round, gadine region: Julier(open year-round), Al- western Graubündeninto the southeastEn- leadfrom northernand Three mainpasses &Around There Getting 15% andaround20%Italian. speakingRomansch around tion, withthose count for65%of theGraubündenpopula- speakersmostly Romansch. German ac- parts of theVorderrheinValley inthewest) (StMoritz,Lower Engadineand between man isspoken, andin inthesouthItalian In thenorth(aroundChurandDavos) Ger- Language tourist office, routes across the AlpssinceRomantimes. and have key been transit kilometre. Pass, TheSeptimber JulierPass persquareulated –around 26inhabitants explains whythecantonissosparsely pop- stretch outacrossmostof theregion, which ers inthecanton)andInn.TheAlps (withtwomainsourceriv- rain: theRhine Two major rivers traverse therugged ter- &Information Orientation from the The modernnameforthecantonderives association of (Drei Bünde). boundbyan andwasloosely as Rhaetia, be conquerors. terrain, abletoresistmountain mostwould- siders and,aidedbythenearimpregnable isolated, ruralpockets, mistrustfulof out- people of thisrugged area lived largely in thecenturies, fident past.Downthrough is afarcryfromitsinward-lookinganddif- The canton’sopennesstoall-comers today History 264 zerland, waslaunched. tourism inGraubünden,andlater allSwit- for thewinter –forfree. Inthisway,winter overMoritz invited summergueststostay year 1864,whenalocalhotel ownerinSt tion in1803. Graubünden joinedtheSwissConfedera- strasse 24; Alexander- 24 24;www.graubuenden.ch&www.rhein.ch; the trainstation. building marked 200meastof ‘Publicitas’, Chur, the capital, houses thecantonal houses Chur, thecapital, timestheregionIn medieval wasknown However, muchHowever, more wasthe important CHUR •• Orientation &Information CHUR••Orientation h Grauer Bund, 8am-5pm Mon-Fri) Graubünden Ferien orGrey League. , located inthe

( % 081 254 20min Sfr5; Self-service laundry. Self-service Sfr7/4; CHUR andEngadinebuses. postal travelgives on youfive days’half-price period.Italso trainsinaseven-day RhB traveltravel on andthree days’half-price ber to30April(Sfr90) gives twodays’free Brig, andDavos citybuses. and Disentis/Mustér Oberalp linebetween most cablecars andfuniculars, theFurka– pass’s validityyouwillpayhalfpriceon the lidity youpayhalfprice. Throughout the canton.Forremaining daysof va- Tirano within buses andLuganopostal busbetween theRhB Ragaz, Chur andBad thecanton),SBB linebetween serve trains(which (RhB) Bahn on allRhätische days respectively of unlimited free travel from May toOctober. Youget two/four or 14days pass (Sfr120/150) validforseven snow chains winter tyres oruse inwinter. thecar-carryingtaking traininstead. Carry ter but,asatAlbula,there istheoptionof inwin- route west toAndermatt,isclosed (all openyear-round). TheOberalpPass, the Maloja,into : andFuorn/Ofen Bernina proximately correspond tothree exitpoints ap- inbadweather).These but mayclose Malteser’s Wäsch-Egga Malteser’s LAUNDRY Café Street ACCESSINTERNET &Information Orientation to German. was advertently tosuppress thelocallingo. Soit to rebuild and,intheprocess,managed in- wave arrived of artisans German-speaking city wasalmostdestroyedbyfire in1464.A largelywise bereft of urbaninterest. The of historyandculture inaregion other- reminderseval concentrate andis apleasant city. Theoldcentre stillretains afew medi- is ’soldestcontinuallyinhabited Chur (pronounced‘ch’ asinaScottishloch) 585m pop 31,900/elevation A winter version issuedfrom1Novem- Graubünden offers aregional transport abunansvair h 9am-midnight Mon-Sat,noon-midnight Sun) h ( % 9am-midnight Sun-Thu, &Sat) 9am-2amFri 081 253 7 14; Grabenstrasse 47; per 081 253714;Grabenstrasse47;per Romansch and (Grabenstrasse;wash/dry www.lonelyplanet.com Guten Tag

www.bistum-chur.ch Hof; inGerman; ( You canchange moneyatthe MONEY www.lonelyplanet.com 257 2889; www.rm.gr.ch Hofstrasse 1;adult/ inGerman; andthe and Engadinstrasse, tions tower),onthecornerof Grabenstrasse sertor old town.Alongwiththestout,stone entranceintothe marks themainmedieval machines! sewing subjectsrange whose fromwineto seums, of mu- city ishometoaseries second-tier Aside fromwhatismentionedbelow,the along themostlypedestrian-onlystreets. tury. Astrollreveals painted brightly façades the bulkof theoldcitydates tothe16thcen- and thelate Romanesque-Gothiccathedral, towers medieval Apart fromthree surviving Sights &Activities office Tourist TOURIST INFORMATION 8am-noon Sat)JustoutsidetheOldTown. Post office POST now onshow inthe in thecathedralcryptareies oncehoused continues, atleast untillate 2006. church limitswhilerestoration isoff work possible toenter asideaisle,thebulkof the done inthelate itis 19thcentury.Although over thewestentrance tothechurch were triptych. windows Thestrikingstained-glass asplendid from 1486to1492,itcontains Builtby Jakobis themostimportant. Russ Altar Of thechurch’s altars, the High seven about butinsideare treasures. somenotable centuries later, isnothingtowrite home century AD.Themodernexterior, added lier churches, datingbackas farasthe5th in1150onthesitewas established of ear- ATMs istheUBSbranch onPoststrasse. carries potted explanations of every conceivablesight. pottedexplanationsofevery carries 9am-noonSat)Hasatownmapthat 1.30-6pm Tue-Fri, .ch; Grabenstrasse5; held onSaturdaymornings. Just insideObertor,aproducemarket is that remains of thecity’sdefensive walls. (nowadays partof thecity’s prison),itisall h The Some of the religious artandreliquar- The 7am-8pm) (once the medieval powder andmuni- (oncethemedieval Obertor Kathedrale (Postplatz, ( . Ahandycentralbankwith % , justinfromthePlessurriver, h 081 2521818;www.churtourismus

h 1.30-6pm Mon,8.30am-noon& (cathedral; Rätisches Museum 7.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, % h Sennhofturmn 081 2586000; train station 7.30am-6pm)

( % Malte- 081

and gizmos. onAlpineruraltools centuries andasection items fromdownthe armour, household few Romanartefacts, coins,weaponsand of thecanton’shistory.Displays includea that encapsulates much of whatisknown in theloft spreads apermanentexhibition Jun–late Oct) 15; return fare adult/childSfr22/11; Kasernenstrasse 55 90;www.brambruesch.chinGerman; those intheloft.those romantic (butdon’tbumpyourhead) are 12 roomsare fresh andinviting.Especially rated onceortwicesinceitwasbuilt!The redeco- fear;never thisclassic hasbeen splatz; positioned over apretty butsomewhat serious skiactionelsewhere inthecanton. serious a littlepracticebefore formore headingoff tion withacoupleof skilifts, toallowlocals In winter itisinactionagain,combina- the cablecarupto KlotzandHRGiger.including Lenz works byahostof contemporary artists, are(1741–1807), andinthebasement works byChur-born Angelika Kaufmann room onthegroundfloorisgiven over to sion) dedicated toGraubündenartists.A 19th-centuryman- inadelightful (housed much of thetopfloorof thisartmuseum pression worldwideandtheirworksoccupy the onlylocalartiststohave madeanim- insouthernGraubünden),are and Albertoinparticular(allbornthe Sfr80/140) Pfisterplatz1;s/dwithshower .rebleuten.ch inGerman; Kunstmuseum Alberto (1901–66),headforthe vanni (1868–1933)andGiovanni’s son of Augusto(1877–1947),hiscousinGio- glass windowsbyAugusto Giacometti. Hotel Zunfthaus Räblüta Zunfthaus Hotel Sleeping noon &2-5pmTue-Sun). senior &student/childunder16yrSfr6/4/free; 2-5pm Tue-Sun, to8pmThu). student/child under16yrSfr10/5/free; Postplatz;adult/senior& www.buendner-kunstmuseum.ch; to Sfr160) 12 79;Kupfergasse 18;s/d Sfr65/110,dwithbathroomup The nearby1491 Hotel Franziskaner Hotel Had of spaces?Take enough enclosed To get abetter ideaof theartisticlegacy h Thishotel inthe Old Townisneatly Itoozes500years of history,but for services) for services) forahike (1600m). intheheights CHUR •• Sights & Activities CHUR ••Sights&Activities

(Museum of Fine Arts; ofFine(Museum Arts; contains threecontains stained-

Over three floorsOver and ( % Brambrüesch St Martinskirche The Giacometticlan,

( 081 2521261;fax % h 081 2521357;www % h 8.30am-5pm mid-

081 2572868; 10am-noon & ( % h Bündner

(Martin- 081 250

10am-

265 GRAUBÜNDEN GRAUBÜNDEN koenige.ch in German; Reichsgasse 18;s/dSfr120/160; Reichsgasse koenige.ch inGerman; feel. Rooms are generally anddecked light the edge of theOld Townhasafresh, crisp centuries,thisattractivefor several hotel on furniture. andclean,withpine comfortable bright, insideObertor.day nights) Theroomsare boisterous square (onFridayandSatur- 266 ip .stern-chur.ch 11;s/dSfr145/290; Reichsgasse inGerman; with live jazznights. bar/café hasalaid-back charm, occasionally greeting guestssincethe18thcentury. The white.to plainbright Thehotel hasbeen Room décorvariesfromthetimber-lined (28km); (35km) (25km); (900m); Flims(20km); To Avis(100m);Hertz 4 1 3 2 CHUR Hotel Drei Könige Drei Hotel Romantik Hotel Stern Romantik Hotel CHUR••Eating EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION Zollhaus...... Eiche'...... Gasthaus Gansplatz...... Romantik HotelStern...... Hotel ZunfthausRäblüta...... Hotel Franziskaner...... Hotel DreiKönige...... Sennhofturm...... St Martinskirche...... Rätisches Museum...... Obertor...... Maltesertor...... Kathedrale...... Bündner Kunstmuseum...... Brambrüesch CableCar...... UBS Bank...... Tourist Office...... Post Office...... Graubünden Ferien...... Speiserestaurant ZumAlten Pizzeria MammaMia'Zur Malteser’s Wäsch-Egga...... (see8) ) Although it’s been inthebusiness it’sbeen Although

Kasernenstr AC 5

( % Sägenstr

(

081 2521758;www.drei

% O 19 18 17 16 15 14 13 12 11 10 bere Plessurstr bere 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Ὀ

B4 C3 C4 D3 C4 B4 D3 D4 C4 C4 B4 B4 D4 C3 A4 C3 D3 C3 C2

081 2525757;www

Plessur Gürtelstr esna...... B4 Felsenbar...... Postal BusDepartures...... Parking Garage...... Schiesser...... Street Café...... Schall undRauch...... Safari BeatClub...... TRANSPORT SHOPPING DRINKING

26 Welschdörfli 22 Station B Train Malixerstr

20 Engadinstr Bahnhofplatz p

19 Gäuggelistr 8

Lenzerheide (15km); Steinbockstr To Valbella(12km); Ὀ ὈὈὈ ὈὈ 9 St Moritz(85km) )

Linden 14

23

Obere

Goldgasse quai Graben 21 Sun) 34; mealsSfr60-70; 1;mealsSfr60-70; 98; Malixerstrasse mosphere of the Zollhaus,thisspot isnev- Zollhaus Alten Zum Speiserestaurant Eating restaurant isalsoworthavisit. out withwarmtimberfurniture. Thehotel freshly hunted game. an extensive hunters’ menu,withallsortsof dishes.Inautumnthere’sand uplocal centuries-old timberbeamsserving and white-clad waitresses bustle beneath pheric of Chur’sold-timeeateries. Black- Welcome towhatiseasilythemost atmos- Untere Kupfer- 18

Gasse 25 17

gasse 26 25 24 23 22 21 20

str Bahnhofstr

Gasthaus Gansplatz Gansplatz Gasthaus Plessurquai Gasse

Lacking thesmoky, centuries-oldat- Lacking Herren gasse B2 C3 C4 B4 B4 C4 15 24 Old Town Pfisterplatz 2

Ottostr

Postplatz Alexanderstr Alexanderstr

Martinsplatz

1 Poststr ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈὈ Ὀ 4 h 6 11 Reichsgasse Grabenstr

Rigastr

Quaderstr 9am-midnight Tue-Sat, 11am-5pm 10 ( 13 % To Zürich 200m 0.1miles 0 0 (118km) Reichsgasse3

Hofstr www.lonelyplanet.com 081 252 14 57; Obere Gasse 081 2521457;Obere Gasse 16 h

ὈὈὈ ὈὈὈ ὈὈ ὈὈ Masanserstr

11.30am-midnight) 12 Planaterrastr

Hof 7

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( Stein %

bruchstr

081 25233 Luzistr St Arosastr To Arosa (30km)

20; Grabenstrasse39;pizza&pastaSfr13-22; weather permits. computer games.It’sbesttositoutsideif lier partof There’s theevening. foosballand one of thetrendier hang-outsforthe ear- man; Welschdörfli; man; Welschdörfli; make sure toeatinthegardenterrace. brief range of meatdishes.Whenit’swarm, you canhave aperch fillet arezas andpasta theorderof theday,but greetsfountain youinsidetheentrance. Piz- withdribbling youinthemood,astatue set such odditiesas ertheless goodforlocalcuisine,including www.lonelyplanet.com 2am Tue-Thu, &Sat) 8pm-4amFri on theweekend. sometimes pumpsoutmusicbeyond2am flora gamelysuggestive of territory, safari visible fromthestreet andislittered with you’re innardsare in.The club,whose quite for thepitilessarmoured door–yankitand arcadeandlook(to your left) half-derelict is dominated bygirly-bars. withafewHowever, exceptions,it notable they don’thave towaitfortheweekends. 2amclosing.DownonWelschdörfliised in town,itgets alittlesillierwithgeneral- bars. Ontheweekend, here andelsewhere scene isonUntere basicallyarowof Gasse, SundaytoThursday,Until midnight the baractivityintheOldTown. high-density A restless studentpopulationhasledto Drinking imbibing. to give youawarmfeeling without even withaloopfireplace sequence screen TV one endisamezzanine,attheother aflat- across thered andorange stage-lit bar. At Project,lizard music,such asGotan wafts ‘Sound &Smoke’ attractsallsorts.Lounge h becomes pleasantly rowdier.becomes pleasantly wearsas thenight onandtheatmosphere ground feel. Throwinsomedance music bargivehorseshoe thisspotabusy,under- around the sociableset and inevitably &Sat) 8pm-2am Fri man; Kupfergasse 11; p51). Safari BeatClub Safari Schall undRauch Café Street Felsenbar Pizzeria Mamma Mia ‘Zur Eiche’ ‘Zur Mia Mamma Pizzeria 9am-midnight Sun-Thu, &Sat) 9-2amFri

(www.felsenbar.ch; 1; Welschdörfli

( % h Wander into what seems a Wanderintowhatseems h 081 253791414;Grabenstrasse47; 5pm-2am Wed-Sat,3pm-2amSun)

capuns

(www.safari-beatclub.ch inGer- (www.safari-beatclub.ch 8pm-midnight Wed-Thu &Sun, (www.schallundrau.ch inGer- Theall-black décor and (Eglifilet) bizochel

( % h Thisis 081 25222 daily) h anda (see (see 8pm- To

AROUND CHUR •• Lenzerheide &ValbellaAROUND CHUR••Lenzerheide 39 73; Kasernenstrasse 37) 39 73;Kasernenstrasse ham) andallsortsof dried Head where forSchiesser, there iswind- alities thatyou’dlike totake somehome? pressed speci- by localmeatandsausage serie carbodyshop; or serie Triststrasse 15) Triststrasse point reached bycablecar. walking Several children to12years old. Sfr37 foryouths andstudents,orSfr18 for pass costs Sfr55 for adults,Sfr50 forseniors, beginners andintermediates. Aone-dayski 155km of slopesismainlygeared towards as plentyof soaringpeaks.Skiingonthe There’s a woodland wonderland,aswell Heidsee, bombard you with theirbeauty. These 1470m&1540m elevation linked resorts, oneithersideof LENZERHEIDE &VALBELLA ski areas. Chur iswithineasyaccessof anumberof AROUND CHUR If youplantohire acar,try CAR RENTAL (eg onGäuggelistrasse). ing garages ontheedge of theoldquarter park- For parking,lookforsignstoseveral less frequent. become the routes combineandservices changes for30minutes). Ataround8pm which costSfr2.20 perjourney(validfor is thehubforalllocalbuses, Bahnhofplatz Around Getting Constance. and Lake motorway runsnorthfromChurtoZürich terminus above TheA13 thetrainstation. leave1½ hours). buses Postal fromthe to 25minutes), andZürich (Sfr36, 1¼to to Sargans, forLiechtenstein (Sfr9.80, 22 Davos (Sfr30, 1½hours), andfasttrains There are railconnectionstoKlosters and &Away There Getting Schiesser Shopping salivate over.salivate The The The oldcentre ismostlypedestrian-only. Bündnerfleisch, Parpaner Rothorn

( % . 081 252 35 73; Obere Gasse 22) 081 2523573;Obere Gasse ,

in theClausCarros- (2865m) is the highest (2865m) isthehighest

Rohschinken Hertz salsiz

( Avis % (sausage) to (sausage) 081 2523222;

( % So im- (cured 081 252

267 GRAUBÜNDEN GRAUBÜNDEN Mon-Fri, 8.30am-noonSat) Mon-Fri, VoaPrincipala; 20; www.lenzerheide.ch; .ch in German; mealsSfr100; .ch inGerman; Arosa) isthemain resort,Arosa) groupedaround (Outer hastwoparts: Ausserarosa Arosa &Information Orientation terest season. intheoff hotels andrestaurants forlackof close in- Chur makes anexcellentalternative. Some Thescenictrain ridefrom buses. by postal inthecountrynotreachedable settlements lenging that so chal- offrom Churinaseries curves isoneofArosa thefew size- spectacular. Theroadclimbsabout 1100m of Chur,getting there isnothing short of only30kmsoutheast Although ski stations. andValbellaing liftwiththeLenzerheide resort. Plansare intheairtobuildalink- skiandhiking istodayamid-level Arosa fortheunhealthywealthy,sanatorium and then,fromthelate 19thcentury,a Once anearinaccessibleruralsettlement 1800m pop 2270/elevation AROSA ning theJulierPass. on theroute fromChurtoStMoritzspan- bus fromChur(Sfr9.80, 40minutes). They’re Either resort iseasilyreached byanhourly &Away There Getting apartments andchalets. could alsooptforlonger inholiday stays Valbella, andmore innearbytowns.You There are 23hotels and inLenzerheide Sleeping &Eating of marked hikingtrails. yourself along170km summer, youcanlose trails wendtheirwayfromthesummit.In 268 sometimes crankuptheaprès-skimusic. notbeforyou,asthey itmight early nights ites like fondueandraclette. Ifyouwant dishes uplocalcuisineandnationalfavour- full of timberandthedownstairs restaurant option incentralLenzerheide. Roomsare .ch in German; Hauptstrasse37;s/dSfr84/158) .ch inGerman; table ontheopen timbergallery. table options, inacharming Tryfora setting. hotel offers cuisine,withmeatandfish high about 3kmsouthwestof this Lenzerheide, Hotel Pöstli Hotel The Hotel Guardaval Hotel AROUNDCHUR••Arosa Lenzerheide

( %

081 3841160;www.stall-lenzerheide ( %

tourist office tourist isonthemainroad. 081 3858585;www.guardaval h closed May)

h ( % A pleasant Apleasant InSporz, 8.30am-6pm 081 38511 strasse; 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-5pmSat,4-5.30pmSunDec-Apr) 9am-6pm Mon-Fri, plus 2-4pmSatmid-Jun–mid-Aug, 9am-noonSunMay-Nov, from yourhotel. overnightyou stay youget thecardforfree rowing boatsavailable If ontheObersee. pedalosand lifts inoperation,localbuses, which gives unlimited accesstothetwoski -arosa.ch in German; Innerarosa; s/dSfr82/248; -arosa.ch in German; Contact the Contact have agoodchoice Beginners oftains. runs. mixed onthree mainmoun- abilities,based has100kmofArosa Activities office tourist Withinfiverosa. minutes you’llreach the heading uphillinthedirection of Innera- storage andbike rental. tion hasmoney-exchange counters, luggage ofsection theoriginalvillage. Thetrainsta- istheolder train terminus; andInnerarosa the shores atthe of (UpperLake) Obersee Praval Sleeping sive. Fromthe about 3½hours andthepanoramaisexten- walk uptoWeisshorn fromthevillage takes inwinter.trails, withgoodoptionseven The (from Tschuggen downtothevillage). and artificial),curlingtobogganing features several ice-skating rinks(natural downhill andcross-countryskiing,Arosa are reductions). senior/youth Inadditionto for onedayandSfr276 (there foroneweek costSfr55 Weisshorn at2653m.Skipasses skiingpointisthe for lessons.Thehighest .sssa.ch; Seeblickstrasse; .sssa.ch; Seeblickstrasse; Express skilift. totheHörnli andfairlyclose theroad off and wideviewsover valley.It’sjust adeep south-facingthose doubles withbalconies offers rooms;thebesteasily are comfortable chalet-style thePravaling mountain house, Innere Poststrasse,Innerarosa;s/dSfr120/240) A 1½walkwillget youtoWeisshorn. zerheide ( p267 ), ahike of aroundthree hours. walkwesttoLen- circuitsoreven on several the HörnliExpress cable caryoucanembark In summer, grab the Arosa Card (Sfr8) Card In summer,grab theArosa The postofficeisatOberseeplatz. From Oberseeplatz, go along Poststrasse, goalongPoststrasse, From Oberseeplatz, Arosa has200kmof Arosa maintained Sonnenhalde

h ( % 8am-noon & 1.30-6pm Mon-Fri, 9am-1pmSat 8am-noon &1.30-6pmMon-Fri, 081 377 11 40; www.praval.ch in German; 081 3771140;www.praval.chinGerman;

( ski school ski %

( Hörnli % 081 3787020;www.arosa.ch; Post- 081 37844 44; www.sonnenhalde top station (2513m) via (2513m)via topstation h

( % 8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) www.lonelyplanet.com skiing 081 378750050;www , suitable for, suitable A pleas- p hiking ) A .

of of of optionsare pasta throwninandaseries dishesprevail, butahandful Swiss German But theywhipupastorminthekitchen. enormous cowbellshanginginthewindow. stop mayfirst of catch youreyebecause the the premises. They alsohave on asteam bathandsauna top loft floor,withslopingtimberceilings. views.Thecosiestare onthe taking those facing doubleswithbalconiesandbreath- bus stop,thisplaceoffers tempting south- private bathroom andbalcony. of allare thefamilysuites withfourbeds, erous, withtimberbedsandcarpet.Best facilities. Thedoublesare rathermore gen- rooms are smallandhave shared bathroom busstop.Thesinglejust bytheBrüggli three-storey, it’slocated darktimberhouse, www.lonelyplanet.com a traffic ban from midnight to6am. banfrom midnight a traffic or skipass.Drivers Card should noteArosa feat completedzying engineering in1914. overbuilt. At62mhigh aravine, itisadiz- andconcretethe oldeststeel railbridge ever trees, streams andbridges. Thetraincrosses pine pastmountains, journey chugging (Sfr13.40, onehour).It’sawinding,scenic leaves frominfront of thetrainstation take thehourlynarrow-gauge trainthat The onlywaytoget isfrom Chur; toArosa &Away There Getting plate Sfr14,vegdishesSfr16-22; Grishuna Restaurant Eating Sfr178/376; Innere Poststrasse,Innerarosa;s/d pensonne.ch inGerman; homemade up solidmeatdishes,fondueandakiller the Alpviewsfromterrace andserves car, thiscountry-stylechalet makes goodon belowtheHörnliExpressSitting right cable Innerarosa; mealsSfr35-50; Oct) Sfr175 per person half-board. Sfr175 perperson half-board. are alsoavailable forupto shower andTV options withorganic products.Roomswith range of vegetarian dishesandcarnivorous upalimited free policy,Orelli’s alsoserves barandalcohol-for itsall-too-healthysalad Alpenblick Hotel Alpensonne Hotel Buses intheresortBuses are free ifyouhave the Orelli Kinderteller This corner spot near the Brüggli bus ThiscornerspotneartheBrüggli

( % p

( 081 3771208;Poststrasse;saladbuffet per Apfelstrudel % Sfr12) (atSfr11) forkids. 081 3771428;mealsSfr40-50; Also close to the Brüggli totheBrüggli Alsoclose

( ( % % h 081 3771547;www.hotelal 081 3771701;Poststrasse, Wed-Mon, closedmid-Sep– . h Thu-Tue) Known h daily)

Mon-Sat Nov-Apr) h overlooking thelake. rowboat andeatatarestaurant terrace for acoolsummer swim.Youcanhire a thick woods.Itis a pretty locationandgreat south of Flims Waldhausinthemidstof a five-minute strollandthenride bylift, lakequoise isabouta15-minute hike or Known in thistur- asCaumasee, German LAG DACAUMA intotheVorderrheinvalley. deep Supper.Last Fromthecemetery youcansee by amid-17th-centuryfresco depictingthe church, theleftwalliscompletely covered leading uptoit).Insidetheshingle-roofed attested bytheline-upof modestmenhirs a site of worship sinceprehistoric times(as in Falera, onagrassyhillthathasbeen set drawn totheRomanesque of insearch atouchThose of historywillbe FALERA Sights Dorf offices the smallestandquietest. There are north. Thethirdof thetowns,Falera, is where theliftsare located, is1kmtothe Murschetg,lies tothesouth;andLaax with itspretty andpeacefullake, houses into two. Grond, oldtown,Lag Thesleepy thetwo.lie between isalsodivided Laax Flims Waldhaus,1kmaway.Theskilifts Flims Dorftothenorth,andleafier biggest, dividedintothelarger, residential east tosouthwestover 15km.Flimsisthe bone of theskiresort are strungnorth- The three townsthatmake uptheback- &Information Orientation airport. by trainandbus(lesscar)fromZürich life uptoo. Theresort isbarely twohours snowboarders, whospicethelocalnight- inparticularisknownasaMeccaLaax for with 220kmof slopescatering foralllevels. Arenaknown astheWeisses (White Arena), towns, three These 20km westof Chur,formasingleskiarea Falera. and Laax Flims, where you’llsurely else, findsomearound thatifthesnowain’tfallingany- They say &FALERAFLIMS, LAAX www.laax.com. AROUND CHUR••Flims,Laax&Falera 8am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8am-4pm Sat May-Oct; 8am-5pm 8am-4pmSatMay-Oct; 8am-6pm Mon-Fri,

( % inallthree, themainonein 081 9209200;www.alpenarena.ch; ViaNova; . Another useful website is. Anotheruseful St Remigiuskirche tourist tourist Flims 269

GRAUBÜNDEN GRAUBÜNDEN Swissraft pressive Insummer, nevertheless. enough butim- ‘Switzerland’s GrandCanyon’, gorge), somewhatoptimisticallydubbed housing estate, butthisplace, amagnetfor housing estate, Sfr200; dm Sfr30-60; dperpersonupto lace.ch; LaaxMurschetg; thrills andspills. on westward-bound trains,butwithoutthe get dramaticviewsof thesame thegorge Youcan spotisIlanztrainstation. meeting raftingforSfr109/160. The half-/full-day people. www.alpenarena.ch. Bookthrough uptoeight andapartmentsthatsleep houses Flims. Thearea isteeming withholiday and30hotels in a dozenoptionsinLaax There isjustonehotel inFalera, more than Sleeping the youthrough taking IlanzandReichenau, Vorderrhein between rafting onthe17kmturbulentstretch of the sources inthesouthof thecanton).Tryriver- and theHinterrhein hasseveral (which itself inthefarwest of thecanton) Vorderrhein ( justsouthofwhich rises the two mainsources,bothinGraubünden:the has inGerman) (Rhein The ragingRhine RIVER RAFTING circular walkingroute, the summitthere250km. AttheCassons isa In summer,thehikingnetworkcovers HIKING snowfalls, inmid-Decemberelsewhere. October ontheglacierand,depending inlate starts Sogn Gionpeak.Theseason dled aroundtheunfortunately namedCrap gest intheworld)andafreestyle parkhud- tobethebig- (onesaid two huge half-pipes remains aMecca forthesnowsurfers, with boarders theliftsbackin1985,and touse was thefirst Swissresort toallowsnow- 60km of cross-countryskiingtrails.Laax toaccessthelifts).Therethat youuse are and costsSfr62 (plusSfr5 fortheKeyCard runs. Aone-dayskipassincludesbuses there are some45kmof more challenging are mostly intermediate oreasy, although The skislopes range as3000mand ashigh SKIING &SNOWBOARDING Activities 270 that yieldsaflush of floraandfauna. Riders Palace Riders AROUNDCHUR••Flims,Laax&Falera i

) ( Itmaylook like someawful1970s % 081 9115250;www.swissraft.ch)

( % 081 9279700;www.riderspa Rheinschlucht Naturlehrpfad, ( (Rhine offers offers

110; Sut3,FlimsWaldhaus;tastingmenusSfr75- .ch; ViaLes Sorts Sfr100/200) Promenade,FlimsWaldhaus;s/d inGerman; -grischuna.ch French-oriented dishes. of choosing fromalonglistof local and menustakestasting thecomplicationout romantic meal.Optingforoneof theset palace istheplacetocomefor a fireside the Hotel Adula, thisclassyFrench gastro- Restaurant PöstliLaax Restaurant Eating lifts. bled andlocated 200mfromtheLaax round sound.Thewholeplaceiswi-fi ena- video recorder, DVDplayerandDolbysur- rooms are doubles/tripleswithPlaystation, your skipass.Theso-calledMultimedia tem isatriflecomplicated andcaninclude baths byPhilippeThepricingsys- Starck). accommodation orstylish rooms(with bunk-bedcan goforbasicbutcomfortable (hotel isfordreamers). motto:sleeping You of designercoolforthesnowpartyanimal partying snowboarders, isacuriousslice June and late September tomid-November.June andlate September areBars generally shut frommid-April to Drinking Via Passadi, FlimsWaldhaus;s/dSfr145/290) and theyhave ratherniceroomstoo. options.Oh, pool, solariumandmassage dream, steam withsaunas, baths, Jacuzzis, of Waldhaus,thisplaceisawater-baby’s digs tucked awayinthewoodedbacklanes for the après-ski scene and continues until for theaprès-ski sceneand continuesuntil as regional specialitiesàlacarte. a three-course dailymenuforSfr28 aswell Sfr55; openTuesdaytoSunday).Itserves with arusticrestaurant (mealsSfr35 to the skilifts,thisisasimplefamilyaffair with FlimsWaldhausandashort walkfrom covered winter garden. wooden beams,thevaulted cellarorthe thewarmdiningarea,between withheavy local cookingpresented withcare. Choose charming(aside fromseven rooms)offers thisspot building intheoldpartof Laax, dinner mainsSfr35-40; 54;lunchSfr25-35, ViaPrincipala estlilaax.ch inGerman; Laax Murschetg; Laax Murschetg; Hotel Grischuna Grischuna Hotel Riders Palace Riders Hotel Cresta Hotel Restaurant Barga Restaurant h mid-Dec–Apr, mid-May–mid-Nov) On theroadlinkingFlimsDorf h

( % ( 4pm-4am) % 081 927 97 00; www.riderspalace.ch; 081 9279700;www.riderspalace.ch; ( h

% 081 9113535;www.cresta.ch; ( %

( Tue-Sun) % 081 9111139;www.hotel Its lobby bar opens Itslobby baropens 081 9282828;www.adula www.lonelyplanet.com 081 9214466;www.po Anendearing Housed in Housed Modern h live acts. andoccasionallywith well intothenight, www.lonelyplanet.com valley tightens and deepens. A dense web Adense anddeepens. valley tightens tion, Martin, before attrac- arrivingatthestar handful of hamlets, such asUors andSt (Vals Valley) drive passing a isdelightful, (or Glenner)stream south,the Valsertal ofInitially followingthecourse theGlogn VALSERTAL &VAL tion of twopretty southernvalleys. Ilanz isalsothedeparture pointforexplora- monastery village of ( Disentis/Mustér p272 ) saxen area before reaching theRomansch the predominantly Ober- German-speaking varioustownsin westward, passingthrough transport hub.ThemainN19roadribbons centre, Ilanz isfor mostvisitors largely a old enough A bustlingtownwithapleasant ILANZ hidden thesourceof theVorderrhein river. daTumalake, lies the pass,neartinyLai Graubünden fromUri.About 4kmsouthof chilled tothewind- Alpine wildernessasitrises south of trails outin theroad,which itself ling are acoupleof wildvalleysextending rhein river are worthastop.More impel- afewalthough pointsalongtheVorder- ( p269 ), thepickingsare slimalongthisroad, andFalera theskifunof Flims,Laax Beyond the great southernAlpinecantonof . towards Uricantonand,notfarbeyond,to thatsnakeslonely N19highway itswaywest area westof Churstretches outalongthe The mainlyRomansch-speaking Surselva WEST OFCHUR villages. A localfree shuttlebusconnectsthethree Chur (Sfr12.40 toFlimsDorf,30minutes). lages intheWhite Arena area hourlyfrom runtoFlimsandtheothervil- buses Postal &Away There Getting end the day and/or start theevening. end thedayand/orstart Murschetg liftsandmakes agreat placeto of 24tonnesof granite, bytheLaax itisright Madeers thepistes comingoff out inLaax. Crap Bar 4pm-2am) Vals Oberalp Pass (1252m). After St Martin, the

Ahitwithskiers andsnowboard- ( % 081 927 99 45; Laax-Murschetg lifts; lifts; 081 9279945;Laax-Murschetg (2044m) that separates (2044m)thatseparates to thesouthwest,is Ilanz, andthengraduallybranching away the heights abovethe heights Vals. There issome modestdownhillskiingin various hikingoptionspresent themselves. from JunetoOctober. Fromabove thelake, coalmine. Access isgenerally onlypossible tunnel thatwouldbemore athomeina aclaustrophobic2km takes youupthrough Therme Vals Therme Sights in 1996onthesite of theoldbaths. thatopened unique thermalbathinstallation tect Peter Zumthorcreated ThermeVals, the is wellandtrulyoutsinceBasil-born archi- secret of thisplaceanditssoothingwaters stretches 2kmalong itsglittering stream. The shepherds’ huts. liberally scattered andsummer withhouses cally GraubündenAlpineplains,green and lage, youemerge intooneof typi- those snaking road.About 2kmshort of thevil- of forest foldsitscanopyover thenarrow, Apr) h .ch; Vals; admissionSfr30,mosttreatments Sfr55-255; 8km further oninPuzatsch. frescoed church. Theasphaltpeters out of gathered ruralhouses around abrightly valley youarrive in the valley.Where itdipsout of of sight the along thewestflankofThe roadrunshigh mer) astheValsertal andnarrow. isdeep erously broadandsunlitgreen (insum- sibly turquoise lakesibly turquoise of exhilarating 8kmtripsouthtotheimpos- (steam rooms withrisingtemperatures). impuritiesintheDampfstein out allthose enjoy theotherworldlyacoustics!Sweat Grottenbad. Have ahuminthelatter and the perfumedBlütenbad orthehideaway phere. heatFeuerbad Trythedeep (42°C), litandfullofnies, cleverly cavernous atmos- labyrinth allsortsof watery nooksandcran- selves, youwilldiscover inthisgrey-stone outdoor pools,which are atreat inthem- installations. has noshortage of finethermalbathing forbathsmagical setting inacountrythat local quartzite, Zumthor created themost Running paralleltotheValsertal from Vals, hometotheValser mineralwater, Less wellknownthanthebathsLess isan Aside fromthemainheated indoorand isamust.Using of 60,000 stonesheets 11am-8pm Tue-Sun, 11am-9pmMonmid-Jun–mid-

( % WEST OFCHUR••Ilanz 081 9268080;www.therme-vals Vrin Zervreilasee Val , acheerful huddle

Lumnezia . Thedrive , asgen-

271 GRAUBÜNDEN GRAUBÜNDEN .ch; s/dSfr245/410) included intheprice. frankly, ugly.Use of thebathfacilitiesis ver, andare cheaper consequently and, have given notbeen theZumthormakeo- thehotel’srooms. Insomecases, annexes lossus, Peter Zumthorhasredesigned the hearty localcookingdownstairs. with timberandsoft beds.Chomponthe and rusticoldplace. Roomsare allloaded the middleof thevillage, thisisacheerful a far-from-average monastery Benedictine Mustér (‘monastery’ inRomansch), boasts esque standardsof the canton, Disentis or An average sortof village bythe pictur- DISENTIS/MUSTÉR &VAL anextra25minutes. October, taking Vals fromJuneto ontoZervreila busgoes regular trainfrom Chur,Sfr14.20). The reachedone hour)fromIlanz(itself by (Sfr12.40, 47 minutes) andVals (Sfr11.40, runmore buses orlesshourlytoVrin Postal &Away There Getting offers hotel eight options. forrent,Apart fromholidayhouses Vals Sleeping 272 up localdishessuch as floor. Ithasitsowngoodrestaurant serving timber-lined roomsandbathroomsoneach onthevillageright square thisplacehas off entrytothebaths. [email protected]; Dorfsplatz; rperpersonSfr59) [email protected]; Dorfsplatz; Sfr60/120) tions on Hotel Pensiun Pez TerriHotel Gasthaus Edelweiss Gasthaus Hotel Therme Hotel and .ch in German; s/dSfr72/136; .ch inGerman; Hotel Alpsu AUTHOR’S CHOICE friendly staffdofine renditions of rant (mealsSfr50to Sfr60;opendaily).The posite thebed.Justasgoodisrestau- open plansituationwithbubblebath op- in anotherexposedwoodbeamsand an unique. Inoneyoufindagrandfour-poster, rooms are cosily appointed andeachquite place isagem.Withlotsofwoodwork, street smackinthemiddleofDisentis, this WEST OF CHUR •• Disentis/Mustér &Val WESTOFCHUR••Disentis/Mustér Medel bizochel Located in Vrin, on the road through Located inVrin,ontheroadthrough späzli

. (

% . Thehotel canget youSfr5 In this frightful 1960sco- Inthisfrightful ( % 081 9475117;www.hotelalpsu 081 9268080;www.therme-vals

( %

081 9351133;edelweiss ( capuns p % ) 081 9311255;s/d On themain andvaria- capuns Located

5pm Tue, 2-5pmWedChristmas-Easter) Thu&SatJun-Oct, ridor tothe church isadoorthatleadsyoudowncor- the immediate leftof theentranceinto complex dates totheearly18thcentury.To stood onthissite. Thepresent immense early asthe8thcenturyamodestmonastery with baublybaroquechurch attached.As directions hour. every Five aday rum- buses (Sfr26, 1¼hours) They leave start. in both trainsheadingtoChurand localRhB (Sfr16.80, 50minutes) inValais terminate Gotthard trains from BrigviaAndermatt intoTicino1914m) andcrosses canton. the surrounded by3000mpeaks,the road hits 20km on,bythe its shingle-roof Romanesque church. About in dramaticstylewiththe tis downthe vention fromtheVirgin Mary. giving thanksfor)somemiraculousinter- offrom peoplefarandwideinneed (or origins which isfilledwith the the monastery. Thenheadleftupstairs to filled withmemorabiliaonthehistoryof villages, of which (Medel Gorge). several Youpassthrough Disentis/Mustér iswhereDisentis/Mustér Matterhorn– You canfollowtheroadsouthof Disen- with 70kgofthetastytubers! sive –onemushroomerwascaught picking in 2005,30peoplewere finedforexces- cheats. OnoneearlySeptember weekend adimviewofper day.Andthepolicetake one hitch.The perperson legallimitis2kg withtheautumncrop.There’sbaskets just the cantonalbordertofilluptheirpicnic get enoughofthemandtheypouracross of Ticino andtheirItaliancousinscan’t vour theybringtoarisotto. The people The magic ofthesemushroomsisthefla- mushrooms. No,it’snotdrug-trafficking. ofluscious outkilos for ‘bandits’sneaking ticular theLukmanier Pass, onthelookout again stationedonsomepasses,inpar- but, comeautumn,cantonalpoliceare Graubünden toTicino. They are longgone toms stationsonthepassesthatleadfrom There wasa time whenthere were cus- MAGIC MUSHROOMS Marienkirche Klostermuseum , achapel withRomanesque Lai daSontga (Passo diLucomagno, Platta valley, which starts valley,which starts www.lonelyplanet.com isnoteworthy for

(admission free; Medelser-Schlucht ex-voto lake and images h 2- ,

Apr-Oct) SOUTH OFCHUR heading ontoBiascainTicino. ble over theLukmanierPass, fourof them www.lonelyplanet.com its out justbefore thetownof clers downthecenturiessuggest. Itopens once have asscaryaroute aschroni- been gorge,Mala adeep Way),through must (Bad the motorwaytoget anideaof howtheVia for theskiresort viaTiefencastel. call inhere, before swingingeasttomake Trains fromChurenroute forStMoritz ruin aboutanhour’swalkfromthecentre. fabulous viewsfromthe maininteresta busytownwhose liesinthe robber-knight castlesdotthewayto the west.Astringof villages andruined range totheeastandHeinzenberg to river theDomleschg between mountain fore swingingsouthalongtheHinterrhein Chur atfirst headwesttoReichenau be- The A13 motorway and railway southof &AVERSVIA MALA VALLEY Mesolcina valleyonthewaytoTicino. heads onintotheremote Italian-speaking is atreasure trove of Romanesqueart),and ruins andthetownof church Zillis(whose The mainroute southof Churpasses Andeer runtoJuf (Sfr15.20, 55minutes).Andeer towns along theValle Mesolcina. from Buses Splügenstopping atZillis, Andeer, and inzona inTicino (Sfr38, twoto2½hours) permanently populated village inEurope. huddle of claimingtobethehighest houses hamlets toreach and theninabare tiny Alpinevalley,through snakes 24kmsouth,atfirst amidthickforests in hamletsalongtheway).Thislonely trail road intotheremote a campingground)forthejunctionwith est thermalbaths andhometofive hotels and another 8kmpast by scenesof thelife of StMartin. oddly, hiscrowningwiththorns,followed panels depictingthelife of Christuntil, vided into153extraordinarilyvividpainted its woodenRomanesqueceiling,which isdi- South of Thusis,take theN13ratherthan Postal buses run between Thusisand Bell- runbetween buses Postal To really get outintothewild,headsouth St Martinskirche . Thismodestchurch is of interest for Juf Andeer

(adult/child Sfr4/2; (2126m), a disappointing (2126m),adisappointing Avers (knownforitsmod- Obertagstein

valley Zillis (four hotels (fourhotels , known for , knownfor h 10am-6pm 10am-6pm castle Thusis , SOUTH OF CHUR •• Via Mala &AversSOUTH OFCHUR•• Valley at riverside campinggroundyoucouldstay Apartfromthe passes. nardino mountain overItaly thenearbySplügen andSanBer- wealthy by19th-centurycommercewith white mansions of tradingfamiliesmade the UpperValais) andbright- farmhouses its mixof (people from darktimberWalser and Zillis.Splügen isanintriguingplacefor Splügen andaround,theAvers area, Andeer site (www.splugen.ch covers inGerman) the intersection withtheVal road). Calanca hours) viaRovoredo (change atGrono,on (Sfr16.20, 1½ fromBellinzona lanca toRossa 1½hoursrun every orsouptheVal Ca- transport information.Inaddition,buses ofcapital Ticino canton. ( it isabout10kmtoBellinzona p288 ), the above thenarrowvalley.FromRoveredo, woolly hikingtrailsrolloutintheheights bella continuesanother5kmnorthpast s/d Sfr80/160; Bad Ragaz. Bad land. You canalsotake thewaters atnearby Herrschaft, of andthekitsch delights - region’s premier wineregion, the Bündner A quicktripnorth willbringyoutothe OFCHUR NORTH town is Forest), (Rhine whose branch westintoanarea knownasthe From theAvers turn-off, themainroads SPLÜGEN & closed) thatdropsintothe closed) (you cantake thetunnelwhenpassis ing southtothePasso delSan Bernardino main roadscontinuewest8kmbefore swing- the like-named whilethe passintoItaly, centre andoneof five hotel options. in thehamletof north, witha19kmroadthatterminates barely visited ter hassome lively eateries andbars. are notoverly interesting, thelat- although Soazzaand from thehighway), Roveredo hilltop castleruinsnearby,which are visible main townsof Mesocco (lookoutforthe partofthe mostItalian Graubünden.The Hotel Pratigiana Hotel See Via Mala &AversSee Valley ( left ) for The roadsouthof Splügen leads9kmto Just northof Roveredo, thewildand into the wilderness. Several wildand intothewilderness.Several Splügen p ) , astoutwhite buildinginthe . TheViaMala Ferien web-

( % Rossa 081 6641476;Hauptstrasse1; , fromwhere adirt opensuptothe Valle Mesolcina 273 Val-

, GRAUBÜNDEN GRAUBÜNDEN the localcuisine. Head for church,haughty itisworthhangingoutfor meal Sfr60-100; Landquart, MalansLandquart, orMaienfeld. have toget busfrom aconnectingpostal (from Sfr9.20, 33minutes fromChur)you a change Topush ontoJenins inLandquart. (Sfr6.60, 21 to34minutes), somerequiring and alimited menu therest of the time. from midday to2pmand 6pmto10pm, ping withmeaty suggestions, isavailable ton’s bestrestaurants. Thefullmenu, drip- Vorderwinkel) oneof that houses thecan- tower(inthesquareeval astreet off called The linethevillage square. townhouses whose clan, wine andhistoricrivalstothePlanta tle of theSalisdynasty,a nameinlocal sickeningly, Heidiland. for somememorable reds. Thisisalso,rather (aka PinotNoir)grapevarietythatmakes region, dominated bytheBlauburgunder Herrschaft. Thisisthecanton’spremier wine you intoterritory knownastheBündner forMalans,out of Landquart which takes you won’twanttowaste timestopping. transport crossroadsof road runsintotheindustrialtownand which Mon-Tue, 10am-midnightWed-Sun) ( colourfully frescoed cal woodsandvineyards.Dominated by a is The mostimpressive of winetowns these &Heididorf Maienfeld bar ( in vineyardsandwoodsyouarriveThrough &Jenins Malans known asthe thewine-growingChur andthrough region The A13motorwayblastsnorthwardfrom BÜNDNER HERRSCHAFT 274 and perhapsasnoozein stop foraglassortwoof thelocaltipple Jenins ing withterrace. Afew kilometres northis tery inanatmospheric17th-centurybuild- 10am-midnight Sat&Sun) % % You canget trainsfromChurtoMalans Instead followthenarrowcountrylane Maienfeld h Malans NORTH OFCHUR••BündnerHerrschaft NORTH 081 302 18 26; Unterdorf 1;s/dSfr47/94;restaurant & 081 3021826;Unterdorf 081 3022423;mealsSfr50-80; Weisskreuz , alessnoblelookingvillage wortha 11.45am-midnight Mon-Wed, 4pm-midnight Fri, 11.45am-midnight Mon-Wed,4pm-midnightFri, Zizers , dominated bytheprivate cas- , another 2km through magi- , another2kmthrough h is perhaps theprettiest. The

Fünf Dörfer ( daily) % 081 322 81 61; Rathausgasse 148; 081 3228161;Rathausgasse isarenowned localea- . Rathaus Landquart (Five Villages), of Gasthaus Zur Traube Zur Gasthaus , a mighty medi- , amighty (townhall)and h Schloss Brandis 11am-midnight , inwhich

Mon-Fri, 9.30am-4pmSat) Mon-Fri, not enter. is on theChur–Zürich Ragaz Bad Mary Pickford.Children under three may attracted thelikes of DouglasFairbanks and the bathbusiness since1840, has Ragaz Bad In runhourlyfrom thetrainstation). buses of kilometres southof the town centre (local von Salis trythepersonabletle wine-tasting, Sfr50, excludingwine. Ifyoufeel like alit- of menusareA series set aroundSfr40 to child under12yrSfr17/12; ( kilometres westof Maienfeld. acoupleofcould bethebaths of Ragaz, Bad The perfect cure of foracase Heidiness 502m pop 5041/elevation Bad Ragaz Sfr5/2/free; 12; www.heidi-swiss.ch; adult/child6-16yr/childunder6yr train line. here northintoLiechtenstein. andHeiditailjust hittheN13road itoutof wein foryourHeidiheadache…or perhaps of beinneed someHeidi-done, youmight surrounding hills(Heidialp). Whenyou’re follow theHeidiweg (Heidipath) intothe just plainHeidikitsch. Thenyoucould Heidi colouring-inbooks,Heidi videosor you couldvisittheHeidishop andbuysome existed, shenever lived she never because Hotel. Apartfromthe which willpassbytheratherawfulHeidihof beabletogetmight theHeidi Express bus, across pretty country.Inpeakperiodsyou minute walk fromMaienfeld (signposted) di’s. Itisnowcalled,oh dear, idea of identifyingonelocalvillage asHei- Maienfeld, andthelocalshadworse basing thestoryin countryside around Johanna Spyri(1827–1901)hadtheideaof where yourHeidiland tostart experience. last weekend of September. normallydeadquietstreets, heldonthe wise ing, eatingandmerrymakingintheother- celebrationwithmuch drink- wine harvest take turnstocelebrate the towns (Maienfeld, Malans, Jenins andFläsch) toknowabout thelocaltipples. need it, FrauMöhrwilltell you youeverything isupto you wanttobuy.IfyourGerman % Maienfeld Ragaz isontheChur–Bad OK, wehave heldout,butMaienfeld is yearthefourBündnerHerrschaftEach 081 303 27 41; www.resortragaz.ch; bathsonlyadult/ 081 3032741;www.resortragaz.ch;

( h % 9am-5pm Mar-Nov) 081 302 50 57; Kruseckgasse 3; 081 3025057;Kruseckgasse h , where youcantryif 7.30am-9pm) Heidihaus www.lonelyplanet.com , where of course Städlifest Heididorf Therme

( % isacouple , a lively , alively h 081 33019 Vinothek Vinothek , a25- 2-6pm as akids’ daycare centre vouring beginners andintermediates, aswell of thevalley, Madrisa region hasrunsfa- therethe mostdifficult is.Onthe otherside buttheskirunisoneofword hardtosay, Gotschnawang. Notonlyisthe inducing Itgivestrain station. accesstothegulp- grat, accessiblefromthecablecar bythe cific areas are marginally cheaper. forspe- Sfr61/41/21 aday).One-daypasses Regionalpass(adult/youth/child Klosters region, which iscovered bythe sport activitiesandotheritems) orskipass. (which alsogives Card discountsonlocal cable car. Klosters are buses free withaGuest hotels, atourist office andtheMadrisa several is thesmallerenclave of Klosters Dorf,with KLOSTERS &DAVOS run hourly(Sfr7.80, 15to20minutes). train line. Trains fromChurviaMaienfeld www.lonelyplanet.com There are 315kmof Activities 6; Bahnhofstrasse office tourist of isthe Right thestation the trainstation. Platz isthemore groupedaround important, Klosters Klosters issplitintotwosections. &Information Orientation get much more sophisticated. brash andflashnightlife. Theslopesdon’t of itsold- fashioned charm andlackof a RoyalsloveBritain’s thisskiresort because 1194m pop 3800/elevation KLOSTERS eastern Valais fromthe13thcentury on. this ruralfolksincemigratinghere fromthe by cal burnedwoodconstructionsraised ted thetypi- byvillages houses, andWalser Alpinecountrydot- justhigh specific sights, Antönien before Klosters, andtheoneleadingto valleyroadsspike off thehighway Several the understatedly chic skiresort of Klosters. ley of thePrättigau,which stretches eastto youenter thebroadplainsval- Landquart Following theN28roadeastawayfrom Sat) Above Klosters at2300mistheGotschna- Two kilometres totheleftof thestation . The post office isopposite. Thepostoffice thestation. isthemostattractive. There are no ( % h 081 4102020;www.klosters.ch; Alte 8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, 8.30am-4pm 8.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, ski runs ski Kinderhort Madrisa Kinderhort intheDavos/ St

8; mealsSfr35-50; meals Sfr62; .ch; Bahnhofplatz; are optionsinsummer. vosklosters.ch. Hikingandmountain biking on skiingintheresorts, check outwww.da area inDavos ( p276 ). Formore information Klosters’ runsare linked totheWeissfluh house specialities is beef stroganoff. specialitiesisbeef house richly flavoured regional dishes. Oneof the fondue(Sfr28 perperson)ing pasta, and of abroadselection dishes,includ- serves towards DorffromPlatz,Salzi’s Sonne meat mainsSfr35-40; mid-Jun–mid-Oct; s/dSfr285/450; .ch; Bahnhofplatz; Hotel Alpina Hotel Eating Platz, hasasauna. near theGotschnabahn skiliftinKlosters timber ceilings,are thecosiest.Thehotel, and comfybeds.Theonesintheloft, with rooms here are spacious,withparquetfloors ous holidayapartments. rooms (fromSfr20 perperson) andnumer- supplieslistsofThe touristoffice private Sleeping Sfr5; (1st hrSfr10,eachafter ness roomisincluded. Use of and fit- theswimmingpool,sauna ofand non-smokingstatus somerooms. like theFeng Shui layout,parquetfloors will appreciate theJacuzzis. Somemayalso butyou section, intheguesthouse highest this hotel has luxuriousrooms.Pricesare spot for simple localfare onthe roadinto for the region,fronted house thisisa good singles anddoublesthere’s nocurfew. tion. Half of roomsare thestraightforward 12-minute, mostlyuphilltrek fromthesta- chalet-stylein twomountain buildings,isa array of international dishes. amouth-watering andserves Walserhof) (alongwiththenearby restaurant isconsidered oneof thebestin Landstrasse 194;s/dSfr77/92; btwn seasons) Sfr42/28.50; .ch/klosters; Talstrasse 73;dminclbreakfast winter/summer Gasthaus Bargis Gasthaus Hotel Alpina Hotel Soldanella Rustico Salzi’s Sonne KLOSTERS &DAVOS ••Klosters

h ( Soldanella,theSYHA hostel set %

( reception closed10am-5pm,hostel % (

( % 081 4102288;www.rusticohotel.com;

sp % h ( % 081 4102424;www.alpina-klosters h

081 4221316;www.youthhostel ( 081 4102424;www.alpina-klosters Wed-Sun) % 081 4221349;Landstrasse155; Wed-Sun) ) Opposite the station, Opposite thestation, 081 422 55 77; Kantonsstrasse 081 4225577;Kantonsstrasse ip h h Atypicaltimber h daily) Alongtheroad ) 9.30am-4pm) The 10 double The10double late Nov–mid-Apr& Thishotel’s . The

275 GRAUBÜNDEN GRAUBÜNDEN service laundry, service ski pass(and the SwissPass). There’s aself- thegeneral andtrains,asdoes local buses Promenade 102; The onSundays. isclosed the Dorftrainstation, oppositeautumn). Anothertouristoffice, Hours are reduced (springand inlowseason Thu & Sat Dec-Mar &Jul-Oct) Thu &SatDec-Mar enadestrasse 43;adult/childSfr5/3; Prom- inGerman; 413 2484;www.wintersportmuseum.ch the ski-obsessed the ski-obsessed opening hours in andaroundtown–such as there are withlimited compactmuseums if youwantsometimeawayfrom fresh air, Davos ismostlyanoutdoorexperience. But Sights has Internet access. ( 8.30am-noonSat) Mon-Fri, The tion: Davos PlatzandtheolderDavos Dorf. two contiguousareas, each withatrainsta- river.line andtheLandwasser Itcomprises Davos isa4km-longstripbesidethetrain &Information Orientation area, where runsdescend upto2000m. cluding thelegendary Parsenn-Weissfluh swift of skibrave somesavage slopes,in- ness here boldof isskiing.Those bodyand intheknow). nomic Forum(WEFtothose crème of theWorldEco- worldcapitalism, pointforthecrèmedela the annualmeeting resort, ithasrecently as gotanameforitself not thatattractive. Onceafamoushealth the brasherof thetworesorts andfrankly Nine kilometres onfromKlosters, Davos is 1560m pop 10,900/elevation DAVOS orskipasses. withGuestCards for those Klosters andDavos are linked byfree buses andFilisur. Landquart train route between Davos ( See p278 ), asKlosters isonthesame &Away There Getting and thecountryside. on theterrace, withitsviewsacrossKlosters Klosters Dorf.Whenthesunisshining,eat 276 5.30pm Sat,10am-noon&3-5.30pmSun) .davos.ch; Promenade67; % The Visitor’s Card allowsfree travelThe Visitor’sCard on Global chat fests busi- aside,the serious KLOSTERS&DAVOS ••Davos 081 4201111;Promenade123;per20/60minSfr5/12) postoffice main

tourist office tourist h

(Bahnhofstrasse 3; (Bahnhofstrasse 8am-6.30pm Mon-Fri) Waschsalon Wintersportmuseum h isinDavos Platz. . 8.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am- 8.30am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, ( % 081 4152121;www h

( h % 4.30-6.30pm Tue, . 7.45am-6.30pm 081 4163270; is inPlatz. Expert RoRo Expert

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Sfr10/8/5; adult/senior&student/childLudwig-Kirchner-Platz; overnight guests. handball, volleyballandmore –itis free for schule schools, including the p275 forskipassprices. horn are within easyreach of Davos. See and thenearbyareas of Pischa andRiner- of snowboarders) offer equallygoodskiing, mabüel andJakobshorn (thelatter beloved slopes toKlosters. Acrossthevalley,Brä- ing runtoWolfgang(1629m)orthescenic Alternatively, youcantake thedemand- more than 2000mlowerand12kmaway. 2844m, fromwhere youcan asThe Weissfluhskiarea ashigh goes Activities ing World Cupevent. festival. InDecember there’s aNordic ski- formers. Itispreceded jazz by aweek-long variety of classical worksand youngper- from late Julytomid-August, featuring a Davos hostsan Festivals &Events ( bogganing andmore.bogganing Atthe Davoser See hang gliding, wind-surfing and include season, on sailing swimming, para-gliding, Other possibleactivities,dependingonthe paths and600kmof together provide 450kmof marked from DecembertoApril. Some 75kmof cross-countrytrailsopen life in1938. overcome withdespairandtookhisown galleriesoftied German hisworks,he was Kirchner asa‘degenerate artist’andemp- around Davos. WhentheNazisclassified some extraordinaryscenesof thearea his homecountry,remained andpainted topowerinturned and,astheNazisrose Davos fortreatment in1917.He later re- first cametothat madepaintingdifficult, problems andlater aweaknessinthehands 1938). Kirchner, bypulmonary afflicted expressionistthe German painter (1880– the world’slargest collectionof worksby 15 Jul–end Sep, 2-6pmTue-Sun rest15 Jul–endSep, ofyear) % Kirchner Museum Museum Kirchner There are several ski andsnowboard The mountains ofThe mountains Davos andKlosters 081 4153600;Talstrasse 41)

( % h 081 4162454;www.ssd.ch;Promenade157) (Davos Lake), ice-skating, to- 10am-6pm Tue-Sun Christmas-Easter &10am-6pm Tue-Sun Christmas-Easter International Music Festival Music International

( % mountain bike Schweizer Schneesport- Schweizer www.lonelyplanet.com 081 4132202;Ernst- youcanget into ski Sportzentrum toKüblis, displays tracks. hiking .

ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ .arthaushotel.ch; Platzstrasse 5;s/dSfr149/258) .arthaushotel.ch; German; Kantonsstrasse, DavosLaret; s/dSfr157/244; Kantonsstrasse, German; www.lonelyplanet.com for uptofour. Thewater issolarheated. There are alsosomespaciousfamilyrooms have generous, south-facing balconies. better roomsinthisone-timesanatorium finding aroomshouldbenoproblem. The hotel isafriendly,middle-sizedplacewhere vinegarsauce)? balsamic an Balsamicsauce star. Whatabout open TuesdaytoSunday)withaMichelin have afinerestaurant (mealsSfr45 toSfr60; virtually outthefront.What’smore, they lake.peaceful mountain TheDavos busstops toilet. There’s andjustnearbyisa asauna There are cheaper roomswithoutaprivate rooms decked outindarktimberfurniture. gorgeous countryinnwithappealing,light Davos DorfandKlosters, thisisa Between Hubli’s Landhaus Sleeping -davos.ch; Rossweidstrasse9;s/dSfr115/190; themes dominate the rooms: light, timber themes dominate the rooms:light, 11 12 1 3 2 Funicular Jakobshorn DAVOS Station Train ArtHaus Hotel Quisisana Hotel ArtHaus Edelweiss Hotel Davos 2

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081 4161033;www.edelweiss 9 Sportweg ᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲ ( % 6 081 4135104;www Ernst-Ludwig- Kirchner Platz 7 B ᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲ Wintersportmuseum...... Swimming Pool...... Sportzentrum...... Kirchner Museum...... Ice-Skating Rink...... Waschsalon...... Tourist Office...... Tourist Office...... Post Office...... (see4) Main PostOffice...... Expert RoRo...... cwie cneprshl...... D1 Schweizer Schneesportschule...... SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION p ip Two ) 14 The

Hertiss Buolstr ) tr 10 there are niceviewsof themountains. are stylishly designed.Fromyourbalcony thebathrooms side,although the standard more. Roomsare ifalittleon comfortable, with variousbaths, steam saunas, baths and intheWellnesscentre,is pamperingyourself in ThomasMann’s eponymous1924novel) torium (which becametheMagic Mountain of thenicestthingsaboutthis one-time sana- Bistro Gentiana Eating works andnicedesignertouches. red buildingisliberallysprinkledwithhis ist andtheentire interior of thisbright- owner, DiegodoClavadetscher, isanart- in shapeanddécorfromoneanother. The filled roomsare quite different otherwise furnishings andartonthewalls.Thesun- mushroom headscostsSfr29.50. A dishof sixjuicysnails oven-cooked in (Schnecken) tel-bellevue.ch; Buolstrasse3;s/dSfr265/450; tel-bellevue.ch; May) meals Sfr35-55; 5 Richst

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Dorf ( Thu-Tue summer,dailywinter,closed DRINKING EATING SLEEPING Ex Bar...... Röstizzeria...... (see 16) Hotel Dischma...... Chäshütte...... (see 16) Bistro Gentiana...... Waldhotel Bellevue...... Hotel Edelweiss...... ArtHaus Hotel aan lb...... A1 Cabanna Club...... Quisisana...... Talstr % 0.3miles 500m 0 0 Dischma 16 Promenade

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277

A1 C2 A1 B1 C1 A1 4 GRAUBÜNDEN GRAUBÜNDEN flexible here. equally Closingtimeseems pool tables. ofhad enough jiving,there are alwaysthe this isabusydiscoinwinter, butifyou’ve specialises inbubblingfondue. specialises the lingua francaisGerman. places to hearRomansch spoken, although stunning countryside. Itis oneof thebest and decoratedvillages houses withsgraffito tional park,ischaracterised byitspretty valleys andhometothecountry’s onlyna- the Unterengadin, actuallycomprisingtwo Moritz andneighbouring resorts, while glitz andglamourof chichi skiinginSt to Martina, by theAustrianborder. (),stretching fromZernez Maloja andtheUnterengadin toZernez; the Oberengadin (UpperEngadine)from EngiadinainRomansch). din inGerman, name toitslongvalley,theEngadine(Enga- aroundthe Maloja Pass andgives its mansch) hasitssourceintheGraubünden The almost3000kmlongInnriver (EninRo- THE ENGADINE Dorf andchange atKlosters. Unterengadin, take thetrainfromDavos toScuol(Sfr27, 1¼hours) inthe service Platz andchange atFilisur. Forthehourly (Sfr27, 1½hours), take thetrainatDavos will change ForStMoritz atLandquart. Zürich (Sfr49, twohours 25minutes), you For trainstoChur(Sfr26, 1½hours) or &Away There Getting Ex Bar Drinking only Jun-Oct). 278 daily Dec-Apr) the one roof. Forareasonable pizzaorröstitry eatingchoices togetherbrings several under open later thantheofficialclosingtime. hanging over thedoor. Itfrequently stays the ceilingandahuge toyreindeer stuffed free popcornatthebar,achandelier salty on Sfr35-40; h Hotel Dischma Hotel The Oberengadin isdominated bythe intotwosections: The valleyiscarved Cabanna Club Cabanna 8pm-3am Dec-Apr) THEENGADINE••Unterengadin Röstizzeria

( % h 081 4135645;Promenade63; Thedownstairs There’s Europoponthejukebox, dinner onlyDec-Apr)

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(meals Sfr25-35; ( % % Located in Hotel Europe, 081 4154201;Promenade63; 081 4101250;Promenade128) , or cheese hut,, orcheese h Chäshütte Dec-Apr, dinner h 6pm-3am

(meals

and SilvaplanainJanuary. inStMoritz,Pontresina sleds, canbeseen ing aprocessionof colourful horse-drawn The is celebrated intheEngadineon1March. (eastern) endisthe of the traditional houses Guarda. Atthetop name of thesun screen comesfrom! peak (3312m).So nowyouknowwhere the north toaspotinthefoothillsof thePizBuin good placetogohiking.Atrailleads 8km It makes forapeacefulovernight stop anda which twohours runsevery inthedaytime. bus(Sfr2.60), path, oryoucantake thepostal valley-floor foot- bythesteep trainstation views. Guardais30minutes’ walkfromits that leaves themainroadandoffers sweeping above thevalleyflooronawindingroute decoration.Itlies in light-hearted sgraffito are draped lined by quaintlysquathouses stone streets of thisimpossiblypretty village eastern progress toAustria. southwest totheOberengadin. tional Park andVal orfurther Müstair, andtheneastintotheSwissNa- Zernez per car,dependingontheseason. utes duringthedayandcostSfr27 toSfr40 30to60min- the pass.Thetrainsrunevery to make to thetripwhensnowfallsclose ranga (justoutsideKlosters), theonlyway alongtheVereinapasses Tunnel fromSelf- exit pointof Sagliainsforthecartrainthat Alpine grass. of streams mountain andpatches of brown ofvistas cragsandvalleys, withsilver slivers ping over theotherside,openingupmajestic of(2383m) inaseries loops before drop- climbsuptothebarrenhighway FlüelaPass ing AustriaandItaly. From Davos, theN28 land jutslike awolf’ssnoutintoneighbour- this thicklywoodedeastern endof Switzer- Engiadina(LowerEngadine), as theBassa Known totheRomansch-speaking locals UNTERENGADIN up northof theN28to Six kilometres eastof Susch, asideroadbends 1653m pop 170/elevation From GuardatoScuol Plenty of pretty lodgings are available in Or youcanfollowtheInnonitsgradual From Susch youcanhead6kmsouthto The roaddescendsto Schlitteda Schlitteda , anancientcustominvolv- , aspringandyouthfestival, Hotel PizBuin Hotel www.lonelyplanet.com Guarda Susch . Thecobble- , close tothe , close

( % 081 861 30 081 86130 mid-Jul–Aug, 2.30pm&3.30pm Sep–mid-Oct) 2.30pm Jun–mid-Jul, 11am,2.30pm,3.30pm&4.30pm admission Sfr5,touradult/childSfr7.20/3.20; guided visits 8km bringsyouto towerjustonitsflank.Another medieval instrikingcountryandwitharuined set The mighty The mighty open limited hours insummerandwinter. around theriver. above theOldTownthatisgathered down turn on and off, fromawhirlpool thatdrags turn onand off, ofseries poolswithall sortsof gadgets that bathingentrygivesstandard 2½hours ina 00; www.pizbuin.ch;sSfr105,dSfr140-220) www.lonelyplanet.com Sfr25/18/5/free) Bogns; adult/child6-16yr/child under6yr/child1yr There’s a gadine dwellingsandcobblestone squares. Lower Scuol(theOldTown)hasquaintEn- SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES 10am-noon &2-5pmSun) 22 22;Stradun; the village centre. The ismoreThe trainstation than1kmwestof ORIENTATION &INFORMATION and gaily restored inthepastfew decades. manyoftown’s houses, themcenturiesold beauty of decorationof thesgraffito the bytheingenious surprised pleasantly to Vals, see p271 ing complexes only inthecountry(second ), visitors to Scuol are Attracted byoneof thebestthermal bath- 1250m pop 2160/elevation Scuol the valley,Scuol. road slithers downtothemainattractionof modation options),fromwhere thenarrow follow thesignsupto you first have toreturn tothelowroadand any further. road Tocontinueonthehigh hamlet of (Arvenholz). and clean,thebestof themcladinstonepine of rusticclutter, whiletheroomsare lean there isarange of isfull doubles.Thehouse are and alittlepokey, comfortable, though led bytheAustriansuntil1803. the town,wasbuiltinAD1040and control- 6km drive tothesouth andoutof viewof adult/child Sfr5/2) A coupleof woodedkilometres eastisthe BadScuol Bos-cha museum h presents variousoptions.The devoted totheUnterengadin, devoted Schloss Tarasp 8am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pmSat, 8am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, , butbycaryoucan’tget Ftan

is inthecentre of town, ( % ( % tourist office tourist (with several accom- (withseveral Ardez 081 861 22 22; Dorfplatz; 081 8612222;Dorfplatz; 081 8612000;Viadals

( , asmallvillage % 081 8649368; . Its singles . Itssingles

( % castle,a 081 861 from Sfr95. .ch) Stradun; mealsSfr30-40; offer localandmore general Swiss dishes. at thejunctionwithViadel’Ospidal. Staff (with roomsupstairs), onthemainroad 12 minutes. Postal buses from the station fromthestation buses 12 minutes. Postal Scuol, thetraintoGuarda(Sfr6.60) takes from Klosters (Sfr24, 45minutes). From Scuol-Tarasp There station. are direct trains with achange atSamedan,terminates at The trainfromStMoritz(Sfr25, 1½hours), THERE&AWAYGETTING town. Stradun, themainstreet of themodern in theOldTownof Scuol.Plenty more line Three attractive hotels are bundledtogether SLEEPING &EATING vance (peopleaged 16andover). all donenaked. Youmustbookthisinad- of different baths, massages andrelaxation, Roman-Irish bath,which combinesaseries Thebigattractionisthe2¼hour the sauna. jetsandwaterfalls.saging Youcanalsouse you aroundtheoutsidepooltovariousmas- Sun, 6-10.30pmTue-Wed) Adventure Adventure adults/youths andseniors/children. 12km. Aone-daypasscostsSfr50/40/25 for ofwith atotal 80kmof runs–thelongest is Hotel Traube Hotel There is .engiadina-scuol.ch; dSfr178-380) Hotel Engiadina AUTHOR’S CHOICE and olive gnocchi)isdelicious. lamb cutinatomato crustwithratatouille auf Ratatouille undOlivengnocchi The surroundings.national cuisineincandle-lit where youcantryamixoflocalandinter- menu Sfr78;openTuesday toSaturday), all istheaward-winningrestaurant (tasting Bathrooms are modernandstylish.Best of houses; othershave warmtimberceilings. and vaulted, inthestyleofoldEngadine stone pineroom.Someare white-washed shower andlooorgoforafullyrenovated You canoptforasimpledoublewith charmer isthepickofOldTowncrop. offers achoice of Ftaner Lammrücken mitTomatenkruste THE ENGADINE••Unterengadin

( % skiing 081 8611419;www.engadin-adventure

( % above Scuolupto2800m,

081 8610700;www.traube.ch; h Thisisasimpleeatery ( % white-water white-water rafting noon-10.30pm Mon&Thu- 081 8641421;www This boutique (ajuicy Engadin

trips

279 GRAUBÜNDEN GRAUBÜNDEN from by dropping down through from Samnaunbydroppingdownthrough of Val youcouldreachMüstair, Müstair Christendom. andtheheartofnorthern EuropefromItaly (Ofen Pass) passes mountain thatseparate strategically placedspotbelowoneof the church here inthe9thcentury,this wasa foundedamonastery andasupposedly central Europe. ButwhenCharlemagne tucked awayinsuch aremote cornerof great earlyChristiantreasures shouldbe extraordinarythatoneof Europe’s It seems 1375m pop 830/elevation Müstair attracts thetraffic. and cigarettes towatches andclothes)that pour in,it’sthetax-free goods(frompetrol floods of localSwissandAustrians who In winter there isalittleskiingbutforthe incongruous duty-free townof Samnaun. into aremote cornerof Switzerlandtothe takes youbrieflyintoAustriaandthenback tomakeYou couldchoose adetourthat border is eventless. beautiful ifotherwise The drive eastalongtheInntoAustrian 1377m pop 819/elevation Samnaun Landeck). minutes), SamnaunandAustria(asfaras operate year-round toTarasp (Sfr4.60, 26 280 Just before borderattheend theItalian more hungerat bay. sheeptokeep wandered adozen backinto Italy.InSeptember hewasbackandupsettinglocals bykilling or the bearattracted floodsofanimalspotters, butthehullabaloowasshort-lived, asthebear wolves thathave againbeen roamingtheeastofcantonsince 2002.The appearanceof into theVal MüstairneartheOfen Pass (Pass dalFuorn). Hecametojointhe small numberof Italysincethe1990scauseda stormbywanderingoverinto thewildinnorthern theborder vultures, released intothewildsince1991. close tolarge deer. The NaturlehrpfadcircuitnearIlFuorn gives toseebearded anopportunity that are not usuallyseen–ibex,marmot,chamoisanddeerroamthroughtheparkat will. ofhumancuriosity. down thenumberofpathstoaminimum,lessenimpact more rigorouslyadhered to. thingsnatural.This The principleistokeep even key meansholding is is smallerthanmostAmericanandCanadian nationalparks,butthecommandofconservation spot farfromthemaddingcrowd.It’saplacetoenjoyvast,untrammelled countryside. abreakIf you’dlike frompeopleandtheirplaythings,theSwissNationalPark provides anideal ANIMAL MAGICA LITTLE THEENGADINE••Unterengadin In summer2005,oneofthedescendants ofthehandfulSlovenian brownbearsreleased whenyoucanget walkfromS-chanftoTrupchunisespecially popular inOctober A three-hour Such care hasledtoaflourishingoffloraandfauna. Youcanalsoviewanumberofanimals The parkwasestablishedin1914,thefirst suchparktobecreated inEurope. At 172sqkm,it Johann ter theinterior of thechurch of the manesque (12thcentury)frescoes thatplas- Next door,the images of inheavenly Christseated majesty. St Steven (stonedtodeath).Above itallreign Peter (crucified),StPaul and (decapitation) trate onthegrislyendsof St John theBaptist, areapses, Romanesquestoriesthatconcen- ian representations of inglorythe Christ for theirlively colour. theCaroling- Beneath SanJon,aresch asthe Baselgia remarkable Zernez and Müstair (70minutes). andMüstair Zernez other objects. with bitsandpiecesof artand Carolingian partofyou through themonastery complex, land’s onlynationalparkandonto thethick and through woodsof Switzer- over theOfen Pass (Pass dalFuorn,2149m) The roadwest stretchesfrom Müstair 34km Svizzer) Swiss NationalPark(ParcNaziunal office Val check Müstair, withthevillage thenationalpark(see through below ). slice of Orapproach Italy. fromZernez a briefstretch of Austrianterritory anda free; which is home tothe The Carolingian (9thcentury)andRo- The Carolingian Postal buses run along the valley between runalongthevalleybetween buses Postal For informationonlodgingsalongthe h

(

% 9am-noon &1.30-5pm) (St John’sMonastery; 081 8585000;www.muestair.ch) museum % Chasa dalParc Naziunal (adult/child Sfr12/6) www.lonelyplanet.com , knowninRoman- 081 851 62 28; admission 081 8516228;admission . Kloster St St Kloster Zernez tourist tourist takes , the dled together mattresses. Troutisbigon to optforthevery basicdormwithhud- rooms.Unlessyouwant prisingly pleasant road, itisahandyhulkof aplacewithsur- the middleof thenationalparkbymain tionalpark.ch; tionalpark.ch; per personSfr68; hotmail.com; dmSfr27,dperpersonSfr37,half-board s/d from Sfr75/140, half-board extra Sfr30; s/d fromSfr75/140,half-boardextra hike fromZernez. the middleof itall.It’sabout athree-hour great forwalkers whowanttowake upin timber-fronted optionis butbasicsleeping mostly intypicalAlpinehutdorms,this be imposed forviolations. be imposed inanyway.Finesof uptoSfr500 may dogs intotheparkordisturbingani- fires, cycling,pickingflowers, bringing tions prohibit camping,littering, lighting from thepaths isnotpermitted. Regula- S-chanf and Scuol.Deviating from Zernez, parking isfree. Walkers canenter bytrails particularanimals. locations tosee as thepark.Itprovides with hikingdetails end of months townandisopenthesame It isonthemainroadjustasitleaves theeast Svizzer www.lonelyplanet.com with skiing adrenaline. StMoritz, possibly rural charm, the Oberengadin is charged As much astheUnterengadin isloadedwith OBERENGADIN and StMoritz,change atSamedan. ForthelatterS-chanf, ZuozandCelerina. Moritz (Sfr16.80, 50minutes), stoppingat toStTrains runregularly fromZernez THERE&AWAYGETTING andacoupleintheparkitself. in Zernez There are hotel andrestaurant several options SLEEPING &EATING cooking (mainsuptoSfr40; opendaily). for theregion, local isa goodplacetosample restaurant, decked outintypicaltimberstyle and there’s onthepremises. The alsoasauna spacious, thelocalstonepinepredominates main road.Thebestroomsare particularly one of thebestoptionsintown andonthe .ch; s/dSfr90/160) Hotel Bär&Post Hotel There’s nocharge toenter theparkand Chamanna Cluozza Il Fuorn stübli

(National Park House;

menu. ( % h In business since 1905, this is Inbusinesssince1905,thisis 081 8561226;www.ilfuorn.ch;dmSfr19, 8.30am-6pm daily,to10pmTue Jun-Oct). h

late Jun–Oct) ( %

( % 081 8515500;www.baer-post % 081 8561235;cluozza@ 081 8561378;www.na With70beds h Jun-Oct) In Apr) www.hotel-belvair.ch; s/dSfr165/310; Sfr210. The Moritzer. tripcosts One130km/h ‘taxi-ride’ bySt only onemadefromnaturalice. Itstarts runistheworld’soldestand bobsleigh Apr) cruschalva.ch; ruptoSfr115perperson; -run.com) 830 0200;www.olympia-bobrun.ch) is andsmallgym. whirlpool, sauna ter still,the hotel hasaWellnesscentre with rose-coloured andwithspaciousrooms.Bet- trance totownfromthemainroad,vaguely 2-6.30pm Mon-Fri, plus10am-noon&3-5pmSatinseason) 2-6.30pm Mon-Fri, &ViadalaStaziun; .ch; cnrViaMaistra slopes. KnownforitsOlympic east of StMoritzandshares ski thesame Inn River isabouta45-minute walknorth- This resort (Schlarigna inRomansch) bythe Celerina and restaurants. prettiest intheOberengadin. here islimited butthetownisoneof the signed byAugusto Giacometti. Skiingfrom and windowsinthechurch chancel de- decorated houses with colourfulsgraffito isfullyintheEngadinetradition, Zernez, Zuoz, asmalltown13kmsouthwestof 1750m pop 1224/elevation Zuoz covers 350kmof downhillruns. nearby Pontresina. Aregional skipassthus resorts alongtheOberengadin valleyand land, isjoinedbyastringof otherskiing the mostchichi resort of thelotinSwitzer- in andaround itisnot although Celerina, is inthevillage centre. Sfr450 (andSfr44 aridethereafter). ofTurm inStMoritz.Aset five ridescosts the Schiefer near 1km,itstarts 1885. Over to Tuesday). mealsfromSfr25; openThursdayfish (set to sitdownamealof fondue,meator 19th-century drawingroomandiswhere 1st floorthelittle of timber-flavoured rusticcharm. Onthe 500-year-oldtained are Engadinehouse full Occupying onesideof thecentralsquare You’ll find several hotels, private You’ll findseveral rooms There are hotels and restaurants several The Hotel CruschAlva Hotel is a somewhat sprawling affair attheen- isasomewhatsprawlingaffair . The13roomsinthisbeautifullymain- tourist office tourist wascreated byBritish touristsin THE ENGADINE••Oberengadin cresta run cresta Hotel Belvair Hotel

( stüva % ( %

( % 081 8300011;www.celerina 081 8541319;www.hotel (parlour)islike a 081 8334609;www.cresta , the 1.6km-long , the1.6km-long h

h ( % bob run Jun–mid-Oct, Dec- Jun–mid-Oct, h 8.30am-noon & 081 854 20 23; 081 8542023; Jun-Oct, Dec- Jun-Oct, ( % 281 081 081

GRAUBÜNDEN ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ

GRAUBÜNDEN -cresta-run.ch; Via Maistra; dSfr80; -cresta-run.ch; ViaMaistra; local bus. ritz bytrain(Sfr2.80, three minutes) orby finish of theCrest bobrun. bythe own restaurant right andpizzeriaset centre. It’sasimple familyhotel withits town ritz, about500msouthof Celerina’s andStMo- road directly linkingCelerina treatments are alsopartof thepackage. downhill, pluscross-countryskiing.Health ter andsummer sports.There isdiverse lake inStMoritzBad. their first aroundthe billionusuallystay stillwaitingtomakemillion dollars. Those aloof thetownalsolooksa mountains, riches. Withitssmuglyperfect lake and is where thewealthycometoenjoytheir 1856m pop 5010/elevation St Moritz(SanMurezzan inRomansch) ST MORITZ the quietside. the mostattractive locationandalittleon 282 1 3 2 ST MORITZ To Champfér(3.5km); Jöhri's Talvo(3.5km); Celerina iseasilyreached fromStMo- Celerina Visitors canenjoyahuge varietyof win- Run Cresta Hotel Silvaplana (7.5km); THEENGADINE••StMoritz Sils (12km) Ὀ ὈὈὈ AC God Salastrains ᝲᝲ ᝲᝲ God Ruinas Chantarella

To Chesa (900m) ( 5 % 081 8330919;www.hotel

Via Somplaz p 3

Via Grevas ) isonaminor Heilbad (1km); Signal CableCar Medizinisches Therapiezentrum Via dal Bagn To StMoritzBad(500m); B Base Station(1.7km) Via Arona To Corviglia (2km) 10

11 Via Tinus Via Traunter ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ ᝲᝲᝲᝲᝲ Via Grevas Plazza da 4 St MoritzerSee

Plazzas Scoula (St MoritzLake) Bagn 39;adult/childSfr5/2.50; Mon-Fri, 9am-noonSatrest oftheyear) Mon-Fri, 6pm SunDec-Easter&mid-Jun–mid-Sep, 9am-noon&2-6pm 12; Via Maistra The Sights the post office andfive minutes furtheronis isthe the lakeside onViaSerlas trainstation San Murezzan inRomansch). Uphillfrom da Lej inGerman, its name(StMoritzerSee the slopesoverlooking thelake thatshares St Moritzexudeshealthandwealthfrom &Information Orientation spending allthatlovely lolly. to bearoundaslongpossiblekeep wealthyboysandgirlswant After all,those Mon-Fri, 10am-noonSunDec-Apr&Jun-Oct) Mon-Fri, during November, May andearlyJune. Notmuchopen stays buses. two, asdopostal the runbetween St MoritzDorf.Localbuses is about2kmsouthwestof themaintown, and simpleinteriors youmayencounter if good introductiontothestyleof dwellings 8 da Scoula tourist office tourist Via 9 Engadiner Museum 2 6 Ὀ Ὀ h

Via Veglia 9am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 9am-6pmSat,4- 9am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, Via M ( nidn...... C1 Engiadina...... Corviglia Funicular...... Bobby’s Pub...... Grishuna...... Hotel WaldhausamSee...... Hotel EdenGarni...... Segantini Museum...... Schweizer Skischule...... Engadiner Museum...... Tourist Office...... Post Office...... TRANSPORT DRINKING EATING SLEEPING SIGHTS &ACTIVITIES INFORMATION % 400m 0.2miles 0 0

aistra To Celerina 081 837 33 33; www.stmoritz.ch; 081 8373333;www.stmoritz.ch;

Via Serlas (2km) Via Grevas

( % www.lonelyplanet.com h 1 081 8334333;Viadal 10am-noon &2-5pm St Moritz

Via Serlas . StMoritzBad Dorf D Giand'Alva Station To Pontresina Train gives a 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 (7km) B1 B2 C1 D2 C1 A3 C1 B2 C1 D1 7 as the as the still behadatoneof skischools, such several or snowboardingtuition(Sfr70 perday)can founded inStMoritz1929.Todayskiing run.Thefirst Swissskischool was nensee viathedemandingHah-back downtoBad vatsch, above nearbySilvaplana,youcanski Sfr30/55) foroneday.IfyouskionPizCor- areas costsuptoSfr61 (child/youth 13to17 to theslopesof PizNair. Askipassforboth toSignal(shorter goes queues),givingaccess acablecar funicular fromDorf.FromBad (2486m),accessibleby centres onCorviglia May–mid-Oct) Sfr10/7/3; .segantini-museum.ch; ViaSomplaz30;adult/student/child and services. more informationabout skiingfacilities ofdistance some42km. and finishes ZuozandS-chanf, a between by thesoutheastsideof StMoritzerSee frozen lakes atSilsandSilvaplana,passes March. atMaloja, Itstarts over crosses the thon country trails.Thefamous days costsSfr376/252/128. than afractionof thearea inoneday.Seven youcouldn’tpossiblytouch morealthough for adults/youths aged 13to17/children, season One daycostsSfr70/47/24 inhigh lerina, Zuoz, Pontresina and Diavolezza. all theslopesincludingSilvaplana,Sils,Ce- plete thecollection. tional stoves andarchaeological findscom- you explore theEngadineValley. Tradi- www.lonelyplanet.com pine peaks andthelakes andvalley below. perspectivemit provides of amarvellous Al- Moritz soars Piz Nair(3057m),andthesum- Oberengadin.walking throughout Above St has amapgivingsuggestions (inEnglish) for Many are openinwinter. Thetouristoffice There are 120kmof marked hiking paths. HIKING &OTHER ACTIVITIES The SKIING Activities .skischool.ch; PlazzadaScuola16; .skischool.ch; specialised inmajestic scenes. specialised mountain (1858–99),who artist Giovanni Segantini Visit thewebsite www.skiengadin.ch for The region alsoboasts160km of cross- You canget ageneral skipass tocover The takes place on the second Sundayin takes placeon thesecond downhill skiing Schweizer Skischule Schweizer Segantini Museum Segantini h is devoted tolocal19th-century isdevoted 10am-noon &2-6pmTue-Sun Dec-Apr&mid- area adjacenttoStMoritz

( h ( % % Engadine Ski - Engadine Ski 9am-7pm Mon-Sat) 081 8334454;www 081 8300101;www . & Dec-Apr; -chantarella.ch; ViaSalastrains;s/dSfr95/190; surroundings. upfish andlocaldishesinrustic serving Champfér, isthebestvalleyrestaurant, Heilbad Therapiezentrum perience of a‘treatment’ inthe dulge inmanyothersports.Enjoytheex- h for itselegantlypresented localdishes. ciated bylocalresidents asmuch asvisitors looking Hotel Monopol,thisplaceisappre- on thefirst floorof thenot-too-promising top-floorstandard roomsare great. central atrium.Theviewsfromthefairly sonable midrange optionwithanattractive in theheartof StMoritz Dorf,thisisarea- Sfr25-40; with champagne!). It’sopenyearround. to eathere (fromSfr32 perperson –Sfr38.50 famous forfondue,andthat’sthebestthing moritz.ch; ViaVeglia;moritz.ch; s/dSfr138/284; can benasty onthebanknotes. wafer-thin, outin StMoritz nights because alsobewaltzingitself your walletmight and/or music.While youboptothebeat Around 20bars andclubshave dancing Drinking Engiadina Eating .waldhaus-am-se.ch; s/dSfr170/320; fondue. better valueeateries forlocalcookingand oneofalso happenstohouse thetown’s a charming, knock-aboutsortof placethat Chesa Chantarella Sleeping grilled meatspecialties. It hasitsownsizzlingrestaurant too,with enticing viewsover thelake andmountains. rooms,manywith this placehaspleasant lake andashortwalkfromthetrainstation, liantly located ingroundsoverlooking the h 8am-noon Sat) eral waterbathsSfr35; PlazzaParacelsus.heilbad-stmoritz.ch; 2;admissiontomin- Grishuna You canplay golf, fish, paraglide andin- Hotel WaldhausamSee Hotel Jöhri’s TalvoJöhri’s Hotel EdenGarni Hotel Mon-Sat) Tue-Sun) h p

This place, beyond Bad innearby Thisplace,beyondBad This comfortable, cosyplaceis Thiscomfortable,

( daily Jun–mid-Oct &Dec-Apr) daily Jun–mid-Oct . % ( THE ENGADINE •• St Moritz THE ENGADINE••StMoritz ) % High upover High thetown,thisis

081 8333265;PlazzadaScuola2; 081 837 04 04; Via Maistra 17;mains 081 8370404;ViaMaistra ( %

( h % ( 081 8334455;ViaGunels15; % 8am-noon & 2-7pm Mon-Fri, 8am-noon &2-7pmMon-Fri, 081 8333355;www.chesa 081 8308100;www.edenst

( ( % % 081 8333062;www 081 8366000;www ip ip Medizinisches Medizinisches Housed h ) Smack ) Bril- Jun-Sep Jun-Sep

283 GRAUBÜNDEN GRAUBÜNDEN h Rd ( right ). (right Rd Pass Bernina For Pontresina andbeyond,see 14 minutes) andSils(Sfr6.60, 21minutes). 35 minutes) withstopsatSilvaplana(Sfr3.80, from StMoritzsouthwesttoMaloja (Sfr9.80, ichenau, Thusis,Tiefencastel andCelerina. Chur theytake adifferent route viaRe- ZuozandSamedan.Via Klosters, Zernez, passthrough viaLandquart way. Those change orChur)alongthe (atLandquart (Sfr67, three hours 20minutes) withone 30 minutes, runfromZürich toStMoritz depending onthetrain. fee, mer youpaySfr15 orSfr30 reservation 291bridges. Insum- the 290kmandcrosses The majestic route takes 7½hours tocover fee) viathe2033mOberalpPass. ervation (Sfr129, plusSfr9 res-St MoritztoZermatt is windsurfing. Acrossthecauseway sch) isa centre for water sports,especially St Moritz, twolakesSitting between 7.5km southwestof SILVAPLANA, &MALOJA SILS-MARIA The &Away There Getting 284 open yearround. being one ofout of thefew season, places intown andjustabouteveryone in season, of beers, attractsyoung snowboardingtypes with undulatingbarandawideselection lous viewsfrom (3451m). providing accesstoskislopesandmarvel- tra) Sprach Zarathustra (Thus SpakeZarathus- the travails of modernman,including textsto 1888,writing essential concerning mind spenthissummers inSilsfrom1881 etzsche. giantof TheGerman theinner courtesy ofmountains, fieryFriedrich Ni- philosophy oncereverberated aroundthese village now,buttherumbleof existential trails andskislopes. (2312m), where there isanetworkof hiking located. Acablecarascendsto Furtschellas where the mountains, mostamenitiesare gia bythelake andMaria atthefootof inRomansch). Ithastwoparts:- (Segl Bobby’s Pub Postal buses run every 30to60minutes runevery buses Postal Regular trains,asmanyoneevery Another 4kmbringsyouto Sils might beaquiet lakesideSils might country 10-1am) . The BERNINAPASS ROAD Nietzsche Haus Silvaplana This vaguelypub-typeplace,

( % 081 8344283;ViadalBagn50a;

(SilvaplaunainRoman- (www.glacierexpress.ch)

( % 081 82653 69; www Sils-Maria links Surlej Also ,

Dec–mid-Apr; with halfboarduptoSfr395/800; display inthe siun Privata another classaltogether isnearby rooms, thebetter withtheirownshower. In in Silsabove Itoffers theGranCafé. simple places. About thecheapest is tache, aswellothermemorabilia. mous- penned bythemanwithmighty route fromStMoritz. andeathere. places tostay several ( Dec–mid-Apr) Sfr6/3/free; .nietzschehaus.ch; adult/student &senior/childunder12yr (Sfr27, 2½hours) in northernItaly. (Sfr4.50, 11minutes) direct toTirano the touristoffice inPontresina. invarious hikingmapsavailabledetail from bare, –showninmore broodingmountains 2323m. There issomegreat hikinginthe Poschiavo bywayof the PassBernina at Tirano linking Val inItaly, andVal Bernina southeastto The roadrunsfromCelerina ROAD s/d Sfr190/340) Waldhaus also hasafinerestaurant. broad bedsandantique-stylefurniture. It walls andceilings,viewsover thewoods, h mid-Apr) Sfr3/1.50; village from1894.His livedThe artistGiovanni inthe Segantini rates theEngadinefromVal Bregaglia. and, shortlyafter, the of itslake totheone-street village of enormously intype,sizeanddécor. classics).Roomsvary airwithlight evening hire athree-man orchestra toperfumethe the oldcharm of thegrandpublicareas (and the owners have careful been tomaintain Turkish baths,(pool, sauna, tennis courts) into thepast.Alongwithmoderninstallations amidthewoods,isajumpback onarise set % In Sils you could stay atoneof In Silsyoucouldstay several All these townsare busAll these onthepostal As many as10trainsrunviaPontresina For sheer luxurytrythecentury-old For sheer The roadfromSilsfollowsthenorthshore 9am-5pm daily Jun–mid-Oct &Jan-Apr) 9am-5pm dailyJun–mid-Oct 081 8265213;s/dSfr85/160) canbevisited. Paintings are alsoon h

( h % sp

hasmanyphotosof andletters 3-5pm Wed&Sunmid-Jun–mid-Oct &Jan– ( , where rooms have timberlined % 3-6pm Tue-Sun mid-Jun–mid-Oct &late 081 838 51 00; www.waldhaus-sils.ch; s/d 081 8385100;www.waldhaus-sils.ch; s/d 081 832 62 00; www.pensiunprivata.ch; 081 8326200;www.pensiunprivata.ch; Belvedere Tower Belvedere ) . Thispalaceof 150rooms, Maloja Pass Maloja studio www.lonelyplanet.com , onthemainstreet h mid-Jun–Oct &mid-

(Atelier; adult/child Pensiun Schulze

(admission free; . There are thatsepa- Hotel Pen- Hotel Maloja Hotel Hotel

down fromDiavolezza toMorteratsch. cars toeitherforviews.Awalkingtrailleads p283 ). Insummer,it’sworthgetting thecable ing passmentionedintheStMoritzsection, student/child (orget theEngadinregional ski- for thetwocostSfr50/38/19 peradult/ and www.hotelalbrici.ch; PlazzadaCumün; s/dSfr90/140) www.hotelalbrici.ch; further downthevalley,at theresortuse toexplore asabase slopes own mountain, (3262m),but Alp Languard 17th-century SaladelleSibille. local meals andpizza,or banquetsinthe buckets up of charm. Therestaurant serves polished timberfloors, antiquefurniture and spaciousroomshave historic lodgingwhose the centre andthe for andBernina, cross thetworivers, Rosegg dating fromthe13thand15thcenturies. Mariaand theSanta chapel, withfrescoes Moorish tower Check outthepentagonal makes anicealternative toStMoritz. base Pontresina, atthemouthof theVal Bernina, 1800m pop 1880/elevation PONTRESINA &AROUND www.lonelyplanet.com Plazza daCumün. out atacaféonthepretty centralsquare, avo kilometresteen southof thepasslies eatery atthepass.Four-the Ospizio Bernina (2091m), reached onfoot(twohours) from schiavo. AgoodlookoutpointisAlpGrüm Valdrop intothesunnyItalian-speaking - Once over the s/dSfr145/260; Maistra; Pension Sleeping with hallshowerSfr60/112) post office has14quaint,old-stylerooms. post office and thetouristoffice between dine house 9.30am-noonSatMay–mid-Dec). noon &2-6pmMon-Fri, noon &2-6pmMon-Sat,3-6pmSunmid-Dec–Apr,9.30am- www.pontresina.ch; RondoBldg,Via Maistra; daily) andawellnesscentre. fine restaurant (mealsSfr60 toSfr70; open modern bathrooms.Downstairs theyhave a timber ceilings,qualitypinefurniture and spacious, well-appointed roomsfeaturing three-star placenearthepostoffice with There’s notmuch skiingfromPontresina’s From the train station, westofFrom thetrainstation, thevillage, Hotel Albris Hotel , 15kmshort of Hang theborderwithItaly. Diavolezza

(2973m). Combined ski passes (2973m).Combinedskipasses ( %

Bernina Pass ( % 081 838 80 40; www.albris.ch; Via 081 8388040;www.albris.ch; tourist office tourist ip Hotel Albrici Hotel 081 842 64 06; Via Maistra; s/d 081 8426406;ViaMaistra; Thisold-styleEnga- ) Thisisapopular Piz Lagalb (2328m),you

( ( % % 081 844 01 73; 081 8440173; 081 838 83 00; 081 8388300; h (2959m) (2959m) 9.30am- Poschi- is an isan per personSfr80-135; 9-11.30am Sat) www.bregaglia.ch; departures perday, 12minutes). Soglio from there (Sfr3 each way,six to10 atPromontogno andtakeoffice thebusto travel along Val Bregaglia. atthepost Alight It alsohasarestaurant (mainsSfr20-35). of itfourcenturiesold)andbottlesof charm. or woodenceilings,antiquefurniture (some of the20thcentury,ithasroomswithstucco and inthehotel business sincethebeginning armour andornate furniture. Builtin1630 ing place,withportraitsonthewalls, suitsof up fromthepostoffice isthistrulyregal rest- just over border. theItalian viaduct. Another5kmandyoureach is knownforitsdistinctive circulartrain tering day forachange of Justpasttheglit- speed. of thevalley’s Giacometti (1901–66),andisthelocation Stampa lages betrayanincreasing influence. Italian shore of thelake. from theMilanroadtocirclewestern bus fromStMoritztoLuganobranches off diComoandontoMilan.Thepostal to Lago the Splügen Pass, andtheothergoingsouth leading northandbackintoSwitzerlandvia Theroadthensplits,withonearm into Italy. German) valley, cuttingacourse southwest rals downintotheVal Bregaglia in (Bergell From theMaloja Pass (1815m),the roadspi- VAL BREGAGLIA Palazzo Salis along withthegleamingwhite four-storey are modestaccommodation options several anddowninthevalley.There11km distant takes around fourhours toreach Casaccia, thehistoricPanoramanotably Hochweg. It pointfor is thestarting wooded trailawayfromthemainroadand liesattheendofhouses, asteep,thickly road. Thevillage, awarren of lanesandstone reached fromthevalleyfloorbyanarrow (3308m) peakonasouth-facing ledge, border, facesthesmooth-sidedPizzoBadile Buses from St Moritz to Castasegna fromStMoritz toCastasegna Buses You couldpopdownfromStMoritzone As downthevalley,vil- youproceed Soglio wasthehomeof theartistAlberto Lago diPoschiavo (1050m), a hamlet near the Italian (1050m),ahamletneartheItalian

. ( % h h 081 822 12 08; www.palazzosalis.ch; d 081 8221208;www.palazzosalis.ch; d tourist office tourist 9-11.30am & 3-5.30pm Mon-Fri, 9-11.30am &3-5.30pmMon-Fri, early Mar-late Nov) early Mar-late , thetownof VAL BREGAGLIA hiking

( % trails, most trails,most . About 50m 081 8221555; Tirano Brusio 285

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