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Eat, Drink, and Be Merry (Luke 12:19) – Food and Wine in Byzantium Society for the Promotion of Byzantine Studies

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Eat, Drink, and Be Merry (Luke 12:19) – Food and Wine in Byzantium Society for the Promotion of Byzantine Studies EAT, DRINK, AND BE MERRY (LUKE 12:19) – FOOD AND WINE IN BYZANTIUM Society for the Promotion of Byzantine Studies Publications 13 EAT, DRINK, AND BE MERRY (LUKE 12:19) – FOOD AND WINE IN BYZANTIUM Papers of the 37th Annual Spring Symposium of Byzantine Studies, in Honour of Professor A.A.M. Bryer edited by Leslie Brubaker and Kallirroe Linardou Copyright © 2007 by the Society for the Promotion of Byzantine Studies, www.byzantium. ac.uk All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without the prior permission of the publisher. Published by Variorum for the Society for the Promotion of Byzantine Studies Published by Ashgate Publishing Limited Ashgate Publishing Company Gower House Suite 420 Croft Road 101 Cherry Street Aldershot Burlington, VT 05401-4405 Hampshire GU11 3HR USA England Ashgate website: http://www.ashgate.com British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data Spring Symposium of Byzantine Studies (37th : 2003: University of Birmingham) Eat, Drink, and Be Merry (Luke 12:19) – Food and Wine in Byzantium: Papers of the 37th Annual Spring Symposium of Byzantine Studies, in Honour of Professor A.A.M. Bryer. – Publications for the Society for the Promotion of Byzantine Studies) 1. Food habits – Byzantine Empire – Congresses. 2. Byzantine Empire – Civilization – Congresses. I. Title. II. Bryer, Anthony. III. Brubaker, Leslie. IV. Linardou, Kallirroe. V. Society for the Promotion of Byzantine Studies (Great Britain). 394.1’2’09495’0902 Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Spring Symposium of Byzantine Studies (37th : 2003 : University of Birmingham) Eat, Drink, and Be Merry (Luke 12:19) – Food and Wine in Byzantium: Papers Delivered at the 37th Annual Spring Symposium of Byzantine Studies under the Auspices of the Society for the Promotion of Byzantine Studies, in Honour of Professor A.A.M. Bryer, at the University of Birmingham, 29–31 March 2003 / edited by Leslie Brubaker and Kallirroe Linardou. p. cm. – (Publications for the Society for the Promotion of Byzantine Studies ; 13) 1. Dinners and dining – Byzantine Empire – Congresses. 2. Food habits – Byzantine Empire – Congresses. 3. Wine festivals – Byzantine Empire – Congresses. 4. Byzantine Empire – Civilization – Congresses. I. Bryer, Anthony. II. Brubaker, Leslie. III. Linardou, Kallirroe. IV. Society for the Promotion of Byzantine Studies (Great Britain) V. Title. TX360.B97S67 2007 641.59495–dc22 2007005527 ISBN 978-0-7546-6119-1 This volume has been printed on acid-free paper. Printed and bound in Great Britain by MPG Books Ltd, Bodmind, Cornwall. SOCIETY FOR THE PROMOTION OF BYZANTINE STUDIES – PUBLICATION 13 Contents Acknowledgements 000 List of abbreviations 000 List of figures 000 List of tables 000 Preface 000 Bibliography of publications by A. A. M. Bryer 000 Section I A tribute to A. A. M. Bryer 1. J. A. Munitiz, S.J. A tribute to Professor Bryer 000 2. J. Herrin Polla ta ete (repeat three times) to Bryer 000 3. R. Morris Bryer the anthropologist 000 4. J. Haldon Bryer the enthusiast 000 5. M. Mullett Not the champagne bus 000 6. C. Galatariotou Bryer and I – and the class of 1980–1985 000 Section II Practicalities 7. D. C. Stathakopoulos Between the field and the plate: how agricultural products were processed into food 000 8. M. Grünbart Store in a cool and dry place: perishable goods and their preservation in Byzantium 000 9. A. Dalby Some Byzantine aromatics 10. J. Koder Stew and salted meat – opulent normality in the diet of every day? 000 Section III Dining and its accoutrements 11. S. Malmberg Dazzling dining: banquets as an expression of imperial legitimacy 000 12. D. Korobeinikov A sultan in Constantinople: the feasts of Ghiyāth al-Dīn Kay-Khusraw I 000 13. A.-M. Talbot Mealtime in monasteries: the culture of the Byzantine refectory 000 vi CONTENTS 14. M. Mundell Mango From ‘glittering sideboard’ to table: silver in the well-appointed triclinium 000 Section IV Ideology and representation 15. B. Crostini What was kosher in Byzantium? 000 16. A. Eastmond & L. James Eat, drink … and pay the price 000 17. Joanita Vroom The changing dining habits at Christ’s table 000 18. A. Lymberopoulou ‘Fish on a dish’ and its table companions in fourteenth-century wall-paintings on Venetian- dominated Crete 000 Section V Food and the sacred 19. M. B. Cunningham Divine banquet: the Theotokos as a source of spiritual nourishment 000 20. P. Karlin-Hayter Being a potential saint 000 Section VI Outside the empire 21. J. Harris More Malmsey, Your Grace? The export of Greek wine to England in the later Middle Ages 000 22. C. Zhiqiang Record of Byzantine food in Chinese texts 000 Index Acknowledgements It is also a pleasure to thank the sponsors of the original symposium – the Society for the Promotion of Hellenic Studies, the A. G. Leventis Foundation and History Today – and especially the postgraduate students who helped ensure that it ran smoothly, all under the expert supervision of Anna Williams, who also organized the logistics of the conference with extraordinary patience and goodwill. In the publication process, I would like to extend my thanks to Elizabeth Jeffreys, who, among her many other duties, chairs the publications board of the Society for the Promotion of Byzantine Studies; to John Smedley and the team at Ashgate, for patience that went beyond the professionalism for which they are justly well known; and especially to my co-editor, Kallirroe Linardou, without whom, it is no exaggeration to say, this volume would never have been completed. And, as always, I would like to thank my husband, Christopher Wickham, for services above and beyond the call. Abbreviations AD Archaiologikon Deltion (ἈρχαιολογικὸνΔελτίον) AE Archaiologike Ephemeris (Ἀρχαιολογικὴ Ἐϕημερίς) AIPHOS Annuaire de l’Institut de philologie et d’histoire orientales et slaves ANRW Aufstieg und Niedergang der römischen Welt AntT Antiquité tardive ArchP Archeion Pontou (Ἀρχεῖον Πόντου) ArtB Art Bulletin AS Art Studies BAV Biblioteca Apostolica Vaticana, Vatican City BCH Bulletin de correspondance hellénique BEFEO Bulletin d’études francaises d’extreme Orient BF Byzantinische Forschungen BHG Bibliotheca hagiographica graeca, ed. F. Halkin (Brussels, 1957) BICS Bulletin of the Institute of Classical Studies BL The British Library, London BMFD Byzantine Monastic Foundation Documents: A Comparative Translation of the Surviving Founders’ Typika and Testaments, 5 vols, ed. J. Thomas and A.C. Hero, Dumbarton Oaks Studies 35 (Washington, DC, 2000) BMGS Byzantine and Modern Greek Studies BN Bibliothèque nationale de France, Paris BNM Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana, Venice BollBG Bollettino della Badia di Grottaferrata BSA The Annual of the British School at Athens BSl Byzantinoslavika Budé Bulletin de l’Association Guilaume Budé BV Byzantina Vindobonensia BZ Byzantinische Zeitschift CahArch Cahiers archéologiques CahCM Cahiers de civilisation médiévale, Xe–XIIe siècles CCCM Corpus Christianorum, continuatio mediaevalis CCSG Corpus Christianorum, series graeca CCSL Corpus Christianorum, series latina CFHB Corpus fontium historiae byzantinae CSCO Corpus scriptorum christianorum orientalium CSHB Corpus scriptorum historiae byzantinae DChAE Deltion tes Christianikes Arcaeologikes Etaireias (Δελτίον τῆς Χριστιανικῆς Ἀρχαιολογικῆς Ἑταιρείας) x ABBREVIATIONS DOP Dumbarton Oaks Papers EchCl Echos du monde classique EEBS Epeteris Etaireias Byzantinon Spoudon (Ἐπετηρὶς Ἑταιρείας Βυζαντινῶν Σπουδῶν) GCS Die griechischen christlichen Scriftsteller der ersten [drei] Jahrhunderte GRBS Greek, Roman and Byzantine Studies ICS Illinois Classical Studies IRAIK Izvestiia Russkogo arkheologicheskogo instituta v Konstantinopole IstMitt Istanbuler Mitteilungen, Deutsches Archäologisches, Abteilung Istanbul JECS Journal of Early Christian Studies JHS Journal of Hellenic Studies JMA Journal of Mediterranean Archaeology JMC Journal of Material Culture JMedHist Journal of Medieval History JÖB Jahrbuch der Österreichischen Byzantinistik JRA Journal of Roman Archaeology LBG Lexicon zur Byzantinischen Gräzität Loeb Loeb Classical Library LSJ H.G. Liddell, R. Scott and H.S. Jones, A Greek–English Lexicon MGH Monumenta germaniae historica MonAnt Monumenti antichi NHell Neos Hellenomnemon (Νέος Ἑλληνομνήμων) NL National Library of Greece, Athens OCA Orientalia christiana analecta OCP Orientalia christiana periodica ODB The Oxford Dictionary of Byzantium, ed. A. Kazhdan (Oxford, 1991) OED The Oxford English Dictionary, ed. J.A. Simpson and E.S.C. Weiner Oxford, 1989) ON Österreichische Nationalbibliothek, Vienna PG Patrologiae Cursus Completus, Series graeca, ed. J.-P. Migne PO Patrologia Orientalis, ed. R. Graffin and F. Nau RA Revue archéologique RACr Rivista di archeologica cristiana REA Revue des études anciennes REAu Revue des études augustiniennes REB Revue des études byzantines ABBREVIATIONS xi RJ Rechtshistorisches Journal RK Repertorium für Kunstwissenschaft SBS Studies in Byzantine Sigillography SC Sources chrétiennes SemKond Seminarium kondakovianum SRM Scriptores rerum Merovingicarum StT Studi e testi StVen Studi veneziani Teubner Bibliotheca scriptorum Graecorum et Romanorum Teubneriana TLG Thesaurus Linguae Graecae. A Digital Library of Greek Literature TM Travaux et mémoires TT Tools and Tillage VizVrem Vizantiiskii vremennik ZDPV Zeitschrift des deutschen Palästina-Vereins ZU Skyllis. Zeitschrift für Unterwasserarchäologie Figures 11.1 Banquet of Pharaoh
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