RIGA's CREATIVE QUARTERS Authors INTRODUCTION

The burgeoning of creative initiatives in Creativity in contemporary cities In 2011, the subsequent development — Ieva Zībārte, — Evelīna Ozola, can be traced to the deterioration is fundamental to the education of the quarters was evaluated, trends of the economic situation in 2008 and of the populace, a necessary aspect analyzed, and conclusions drawn about research director, researcher, article author 2009, which left display windows on of cultural diversity and economic successes and failures. In June and July the first storeys of the city’s buildings growth. Richard Florida, an American 2011, Riga’s creative quarters were sur- publication editor Qualified as Architect at Riga Technical University empty. Many people who had become philosopher focused on city planning, veyed; interviews were conducted with and received a Master’s degree in Urbanism from unemployed decided to apply themselves has theorized that creativity is the more than 40 new entrepreneurs, the Qualified as Architect at Riga Technical University Delft University of Technology in the . to pursuits close to their hearts, driving force behind the develop- curators of cultural processes, artists, and received a Master’s degree in the social sciences Has worked at MADE arhitekti, as well as publishing turning their avocations into gainful ment of modern urban areas, regions architects and building owners. Every- from the University of . Engaged in criticism articles on the A4D interactive platform and magazines employment. It was not long before and nations. He has gathered data day life in these urban environments, and creative work in the fields of architecture, design Latvijas Architektūra and Ir on current issues in Latvian support programmes like Atspēriens and indicating that diverse opportunities for those who create the environments, and cultural processes. Has worked as writer and architecture. Carried out the Riga’s Creative Quarters Brigāde sprang up, offering a helping recreation are essential in making cities and public events held in the quarters editor for publications including Latvijas Architektūra, (2009) study, published in the Process2 contemporary hand to promising new entrepreneurs. competitive; a self-organizing process were documented in photographs. All Diena, Ir, and A10. Co-founder of the Foundation architecture book. Leads groups every year at the creating venues for cultural activities of the sites included in the study were for the Promotion of Architecture, author of the Process Riga Technical University International Summer In 2011, Riga’s creative quarters and entertainment is vital in attracting visited in person. Their media presence book and exhibition project, lecturer and academic School. Currently resides in , where she became strong sub-centres, each with younger residents. If the young find a was also evaluated. The criteria for the reviewer at the Art Academy of Latvia, etc. Established participates in projects by the SVESMI architecture its own unique theme. Original city desirable, that city has a future. selection of the sites were primarily the Lukabuka brand, dealing with publishing, design, firm and writes a blog at fineyoungurbanists.tumblr.com sites and experiences draw people’s their accessibility to the public and the producing exhibitions and selling books. Received interest, have the potential to become Riga’s Creative Quarters is the continua- events held there, as well as the impact the LAS Annual Architecture Prize for the project economically meaningful, and can tion of a study first undertaken in 2009 the sites have on their neighbourhoods Behind the Curtain. Architect Marta Staņa. have a positive impact on the overall and published in the second volume and on the city as a whole. — Matīss Groskaufmanis, urban environment. By contrast to of Process, a publication devoted to large-scale planning that takes place contemporary architecture. The study researcher, article author from the top down, small-scale, private reflected a growing interest in creative — Andrejs Strokins, initiatives reorder the city step by step, industries at that time. Despite the Alongside studies at the Riga Construction College at a street level – outdoor cafe tables, economic crisis, the development of photographer, portraits (specializing as architectural technician), worked at well-lit windows and open doors make creative quarters began with glowing a number of architecture offices in Riga, including Riga more enticing, usable and safe. optimism and offered a counter-current and documentation of NRJA. After completing his studies in 2008, was to the tendency of people from admitted to the Mackintosh School of Architecture The concept of a “quarter” in this study is Latvia, especially younger people, to the urban environment in and in summer 2011, received a a loose one, applied to various structural emigrate in search of a better life. Bachelor of Architecture accredited by the Royal elements in the urban environment – the Received a BA from the Art Academy of Latvia Institute of British Architecture. In 2009, before stretch of a street, a courtyard between and studied photography at Andrejs Grants’ studio a one-year exchange programme at the Academy freestanding buildings, rehabilitated and the ISSP International Summer School of Fine Arts , he worked at the Leo Burnett industrial premises, or a pedestrian ar- of Photography. Specializes in documentary Riga advertising agency. In the evenings, after his cade. Each of the nine locations in Riga photography and has gained professional professional and academic activities, he takes part in described here is known for its archi- experience at the A.F.I. and F64 photo agencies. maintaining the Cita Mūzika hand-picked music blog. tectural features and a distinct lifestyle. The study also looks at cultural shifts in urban life – the revival of bicycling and the advent of virtual networking.

Publisher – ©Foundation Rīga 2014, 2011 The Guide to Riga’s Creative Instruments for the Support Foundation Rīga 2014 © Ieva Zībārte, Evelīna Ozola, Quarters is part of research of Creative Industries In 2014, Riga will be the European Capital of Culture. In order Graphic design and layout – Matīss Groskaufmanis, conducted in the context of Edgars Zvirgzdiņš, et-sons.com texts, 2011 the interregional cooperation to create positive long-term cultural traces in the city, Foundation © Andrejs Strokins, programme INTERREG English language edition photography, 2011 IVC project 0271R1 – Creative RIGA 2014 will invite creative neighbourhoods to create a by Riga2014 Metropolises: Policies and common platform for their initiatives within a programme.

European Capital of Culture Your Rīga 2014 riga2014.org

Authors 2 3 Introduction A CELEBRATION Changing EVERY DAY the city — Edijs Vucēns — The blocks between and Žanete Skarule, Tērbatas iela and owners of the Barona iela unspecialized Pērle shop One could live on a street between Culture and design form another layer Tērbatas and Barona without of this quarter’s offerings – its essence budging from the neighbourhood can be discovered at RIIJA, a Latvian Made a conscious choice to avoid at all, year after year, and experience lifestyle concept shop, which shares the tourist hotspots and create an no lack of culture, diverse cuisine, an address with Lukabuka, a design alternative Riga. Two years later, fashion or socializing. The area has shop and bookstore. There’s also the kindred cafes and stores have long been saturated with bookshops, Splendid Palace, Riga’s oldest cinema. popped up all around the area. libraries, theatres and cinemas. If the alternative scene is more to one’s Are not claiming pioneer status, but Points of interest here are not evenly liking, then Tērbatas iela between have provided an impulse for young spread; the streets in the neighbourhood Stabu and Matīsa is the place to people with the desire to create and have certain distinct epicentres. The be – Gauja provides counter service change the city to be able to try. corner of Lāčplēša and Barona is a steeped in nostalgia for the Soviet crossroads of culture; the restaurant era, its diverse customers mixing with Pērle is not just a space, but an idea that Osiris has long been renowned as a crowds of revellers who keep up a lively can spread further into the city. haunt of creative people, prominent atmosphere on both sides of Tērbatas businesspeople and politicians. iela in the evenings. One can find an Communication on Twitter and via The gallery and restaurant Istaba antidote to retro Soviet chic by imbibing email is the only method of advertising. opened nearby not so long ago. The pop culture in a casual ambience Pērle is not following anyone on Twitter, is visible from the at Pērle, which features live music but has around 3500 followers. intersection, and the Teātra bāra among mannequins and other decor. restorāns with its summer terrace Enjoy cooperating with others: can be found in its courtyard. The blocks between Tērbatas and Barona MAMMU, Moment, Adwards, do not possess a distinctive identity. The Latvian Academy of Art. The quarter bears witness to Riga’s The keyword here is diversity, also coffee craze, too – there’s the fine vintage reflected by the variety of its visitors. I Over time, the layout and rhythm clothing store and cafeteria Bonēra, the of events has been adapted to avoid trendy coffee bar Innocent Cafe, and the disturbing the neighbours. family-oriented bakery Kūkotava; all three brew a superb cup that makes @VeikalsPerle one want to return again and again.

The blocks between Tērbatas iela and Barona iela 4 5 The blocks between Tērbatas iela and Barona iela Will take part even if they’re not on the programme — Ksenija Kamikaza, DJ, landlady of the Fiesta vinotheque

The aim was to find a Would really like a bicycle Fiesta is more popular central spot – a historical parking space nearby, among Russians, since its house to suit wine. since these days everyone owners are Russian, but rides a bike and wants a Latvians come too. There Invested savings meant place to leave their ‘horse’. are no conflicts, and no for children and new Uses Facebook the most, problems speaking either windows, as well as their since everyone moved to Latvian or Russian. own fridges and those of Facebook at one point their grandmothers. – Latvians, Russians, Cooperation could be friends living abroad. going better, but there is The building owner was Everyone is very active on a lack of time. Everyone supportive. there. works hard to survive. Have established a model of cooperation with the Ludo gaming club.

»»vinoteka.lv In contact with the players FEELING LIGHT — Egīls Grasmanis, co-owner of the — Marika Viktorova un Ingrīda Reigo, owners of La Kanna restaurant Ludo board game stores

Ludo is a chain of board game stores – the Mols and Galerija Centrs shopping With no prior experience in the Tērbatas iela was chosen for its flow of They would like the state and local there is currently one in Riga, one in centres, as niche stores find it harder to hospitality industry, they have created a people. Businesspeople also appreciate government to offer more bureaucratic Tallinn and one in Tartu. get a good spot there. place in which to feel light, enjoy a light the location. flexibility, as getting ideas approved meal and build relationships lightly. takes a lot of time and work, making it Started business as a publisher and Board game players in Lithuania and A La Kanna client is a successful, an expensive process. wholesaler of board games, and the key Estonia are more active and gather in The La Kanna concept is an open mature, highly-developed personality reason why he and his friends opened a clubs and groups. Latvians have to be kitchen – the chef and food preparation with strong self-esteem. »»lakanna.lv shop was the wish to be in direct contact encouraged to get together and play. process are visible; guests can feel at with other players. home by having a chat with the chef. Has noticed that the popularity of board The food is fresh and homemade, Ludo’s current location at the corner of games has grown significantly over the including bread and pastries. Bruņinieku and Kr.Barona has turned out past few years; the idea that games are to be more successful than earlier sites in just meant for children has disappeared.

»»ludo.lv

The blocks between Tērbatas iela and Barona iela 6 7 The blocks between Tērbatas iela and Barona iela 27. Uzbekistāna Education, Exercise for Food and drink Uzbek cuisine, with juicy chebureki, shurpa, and pilaf Bruņinieku iela 33, uzbekistana.lv, @uzbekistana culture, support mind and body 20. Istaba Artworks and handicrafts for sale, 28. Take it easy Tarte Cafe 1. The New Riga Theatre 11. Ludo exhibitions and a restaurant Sweet and savoury tarts and musical offerings Phenomenal direction and acting A board game shop and club, Krišjāņa Barona iela 31a Ģertrūdes iela 39 in two auditoriums gaming evenings and rentals Lāčplēša iela 25, jrt.lv, @jrt_lv Krišjāņa Barona iela 55, ludo.lv, @LudoRiga 21. The Hare Krishna Centre 29. La Kanna A restaurant, shop and yoga centre offering A cafe with an open kitchen 2. Splendid Palace (Rīga) Cinema 12. Boards.lv cooking lessons, and food for the homeless serving fresh, light foods The oldest cinema in Riga, showing select films – The oldest skate shop in Latvia, extreme sports Krišjāņa Barona iela 56, krishna.lv Tērbatas iela 5, lakanna.lv, @LaKannaCafe also a venue for festivals and lectures schools, camps and creative workshops Elizabetes iela 61, kinoriga.lv Bruņinieku iela 29/31, boards.lv, @boards_lv 22. Osiris 30. Čaihana Sato A cult restaurant with breakfast omelettes, Uzbek and Uighur cuisine, with pilaf, 3. Artelis 13. Baltijas papīrs steaks, and a loyal clientele stuffed cabbage and lamb pelmenyi An eclectic stage featuring theatre, cabaret and jazz A fantastic paper shop with an attitude Krišjāņa Barona iela 31, @cafeOsiriss Blaumaņa iela 5a-1b, sato.lv Blaumaņa iela 32, artelis.lv Tērbatas iela 53-1 31 23. Teātra bārs un Teātra bāra restorāns 4. The British Council 14. Anahata A bar and restaurant on opposite sides of The base for British culture and education, A yoga school for all, organizing the street, summer terraces, a stage Entertainment 12 26 27 Matīsa iela also offering support for creative activities camps and seminars Lāčplēša iela 25 un 26, teatrabars.lv, @TeatraBars 14 13 Blaumaņa 5a-2, britishcouncil.org/latvia, Tērbatas iela 49/51, anahata.lv 31. Pērle 33 8 25 11 10 24 @BCLatvia 24. L'Aperitivo Bar, unspecialized shop, concerts, lectures 9 Bruņinieku iela Martas iela Italian wine and cuisine, evening Tērbatas iela 65, @VeikalsPerle Akas iela 5. French Institute aperitifs and themed weeks Brīvības iela 16 32 Stabu iela French language courses, media library, Coffee culture Stabu iela 30, @AperitivoRiga 32. Golden 30 23 culture and education projects An open-minded club, intelligence and sexuality 15 4 1 21 Elizabetes iela 59, ccf.lv 15. Bonēra 25. Vīna studija Ģertrūdes iela 33/35, 23 16 Ģertrūdes28 iela Cafeteria fine vintage, clothing and concerts An impressive interior and the right mygoldenclub.com, @sekonoslepumiem 20 5 Blaumaņa iela 12, @Bonera wine in the right glasses 2 18 Tērbatas iela 22 29 19 Lāčplēša iela Stabu iela 32, vinastudija.lv, @vinastudija 33. Fiesta 76 Fashion, art, 16. Cadets de Gascogne Every evening here is a festival - wine,

Blaumaņa iela Croissants, baguettes, freshly squeezed 26. Gauja fine food, and a dance floor Pērses iela design juices and the international press Counter service and a bar with microbrews, Ģertrūdes 19/21, vinoteka.lv, @vinoteka_Fiesta Kr.Barona iela 3 Ģertrūdes iela 30, Krišjāņa Barona iela 52, cadets.lv cultivating a Soviet aesthetic 17 Dzirnavu iela 6. Lukabuka Tērbatas iela 56, bufetegauja.lv, @bufetegauja Selected books and design – 17. Innocent Cafe A.Čaka iela Elizabetes iela architecture, food, fashion A coffee bar, Illy concept store, breakfast, 31 LOOKING BETTER TOGETHER Tērbatas iela 6/8, lukabuka.lv, @lukabukariga brunch, lunch and bicycling Blaumaņa iela 34-1a, innocent.lv, @innocentcafe 7. RIIJA 12 — Aļona Bauska, designer QooQoo 26 27 Matīsa iela A Latvian lifestyle concept store – linen, 18. Coffee Inn 13 Marijas iela 33 14 ceramics, and a harmonious aesthetic A personalized chain location with 8 25 11 10 24 Opened a QooQoo shop since the Actively uses social networks, spreading Tērbatas iela 6/8, riija.lv a coffee of the day and snacks 9 Bruņinieku iela Martas iela brand is growing in popularity in information on brand activities and Tērbatas iela 7, coffee-inn.lv, @coffee_inn_lv Akas iela Latvia, and a direct relationship talking about the daily routine, thus 8. Neputna galerija Brīvības iela 16 32 Stabu iela with the client is necessary in order drawing in more and more people. The showroom of the art book and 19. Kūkotava 30 23 to understand what products and magazine publisher Neputns A bakery serving wine; open kitchen 15 4 1 21 campaigns they are interested in. Twitter was the inspiration for Tērbatas iela 49/51, neputns.lv that’s like a stage of dough art 23 16 20 Ģertrūdes28 iela an interactive design – followers Tērbatas iela 10-12, kukotava.lv 5 22 The QooQoo office is located in the sent in images of their dogs, 9. QooQoo 2 18 Tērbatas iela 29 19 Lāčplēša iela Creative Andrejsala business incubator. and 50 photographs were Moved to Andrejsala. 76 used for clothing prints. qooqoo.lv Blaumaņa iela Wants QooQoo to be a Baltic brand, Pērses iela and is planning to start exporting her Note: since Riga's Creative Quarters 10. OT Kr.Barona iela 3 products. was originally published, QooQoo Ogre Textile company outlet with 17 Dzirnavu iela has moved to Andrejsala collections by Latvian designers Tērbatas iela 45a, ogre-textile.lv A.Čaka iela »»qooqoo.lv Elizabetes iela 0 150m 300m

The blocks between Tērbatas iela and Barona iela 8 9 Marijas iela The blocks between Tērbatas iela and Barona iela

0 150m 300m A bouquet of colours and tastes — Baznīcas iela

Finding oneself in the quarter along Baznīcas iela – One can find fresh ideas materializing around Old Church Street – may actually be easier than missing St. Gertrude’s, too – Muffins and More is the first cafe it, since the concentration of cafes, boutiques, bars in Latvia devoted to muffins at a New York level of A product no one in Latvia knew and handicrafts shops here is not only a destination taste. Pīrāgi and other local specialties can’t be found in its own right, but also happens to be on the way to there, so those interested in personal service and an — Jack Hansen, co-owner of the Muffins and More bakery many other places people go. Whether you’re headed array of Latvian and exotic foods might try Muklājs, for the Miera iela “republic”, the Quiet Centre, or the where the menu with its many permutations can only Esplanade, you’re likely to cross Baznīcas, Lāčplēša be uncovered through conversation with the waiter. Has sold over 35 Highlights the Communicates with By selling muffins or Ģertrūdes streets, and perhaps you will surrender thousand American importance of the small clients via social media only, they have created to the temptations of dining, snacking or sipping There are also stores featuring Latvian design in muffins. space – people like it; – everything is on the a product no one coffee in this quarter. this quarter. Anna Ledskalniņa’s fashion showroom there is no distance. Such internet, including in Latvia knew. Anna Led and the gift shop Muhamors attract both In order to survive, premises are hard to find discount offers. The offerings in this quarter were once oriented toward a local clientele and visitors to the city. The most he tries to listen and in Riga, however, as they »»muffinsandmore.lv the office workers rushing by, housewives and a more ‘democratic’ part of the Quiet Centre, Baznīcas iela fulfil new ideas – both are usually in uninviting mature crowd, but the area got a second wind with the differs from other streets because the urban space his own and clients’. cellars or half-cellars. advent of Riga’s bicycling centre, MiiT, in Lācplēša is dominated by Old St. Gertrude’s, in the centre iela. MiiT immediately drew flocks of bicycles and of an atypical circle, the heavy traffic along Brīvības younger people. The energetic parties in the courtyard iela flowing at one edge of the otherwise rather contrast with the more sober atmosphere at the nearby secluded quarter, allowing visitors to dive into the vegetarian restaurant Kamadena, and at Fazenda, a rich range of gastronomy and design on offer. I restaurant exhibiting a kind of countryside nostalgia.

Baznīcas iela 10 11 Baznīcas iela Fashion, art, Second hand FOOD AND DRINKS

design 6. Lira 8. Fazenda Vintage vinyl, books, films and Meals made with local ingredients in a 1. Anna Led wine for sale or trade romantic atmosphere, a bakery and market Annas Ledskalniņa’s showroom, Baznīcas iela 8, lira.lv Baznīcas iela 14, fazenda.lv, @fazendabazar comfortable sizes, natural materials Baznīcas iela 13, annaled.com 9. Kamadena A vegetarian restaurant with good vibes, a 2. Muhamors Bicycle culture shop, concerts, and seminars on tantra Tagine pots, teapots, lamps and other gifts Lāčplēša iela 12, kamadena.lv, @kamadena Baznīcas iela 14, muhamors.lv, @muhamors 7. MiiT Stabu iela Cafe, bicycle shop and workshop, 10. Muffins and More 3. Gints Bude dances and contests Real American muffins, delicious every day A fashion house and studio Lāčplēša iela 10, miit.lv, @miit_tiim Ģertrūdes iela 9, muffinsandmore.lv, Baznīcas iela 31, gintsbude.com @muffinsandmore 5 4. Baba 11. Muklājs Ģertrūdes iela 4 11 A fashion and design store, creative workshop A restaurant with a unique attitude, Baznīcas iela 37, @veikals_BABA Calvados, jazz, conversation 10 Baznīcas iela 37, @muklajs 5. Cherry Picking Strings of light for one’s own and others’ pleasure 3 Baznīcas iela 37, chepi.lv, @CherryPickingLV BOOKS Lāčplēša iela

Stabu iela 12. Robert’s Books Used English-language books Dzirnavu iela 51ah, robertsbooksriga.com, @robertsbooks 8 2 5 Skolas iela Ģertrūdes iela 7 4 Dzirnavu iela 9 11 1 6 10

Baznīcas iela 12 3 Lāčplēša iela

Brīvības iela

8 2 Skolas iela Open to all 7 Dzirnavu iela 9 — Raivis Vaitekūns, co-owner of the MiiT bicycle cafe 1 6

Baznīcas iela Open to everyone, Have no intention of Received support from Try to avoid stagnation 12 not just cyclists– at bowing to the winter the Altum programme and keep up with trends – no point have they demand for skiing to launch the business, in unlike vintage clothing, tried to screen clients. products in the name of the form of a grant and a fashionable for a specific Lunch is available; financial stability. This loan on favourable terms. period, they see the Brīvības iela coffee takes priority has worked so far – bicycle as having a classic as a focus product. activity in the bicycle Have been called a and solid value. workshop has not Twitter bar since they’ve ceased even during grown by using social »»miit.lv the winter season. networks. They see them as having great potential.

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0 75m 150m A republic of our own — Miera iela

The image of Miera iela – Peace Street – was long moulded by the famous Laima chocolate factory, the hulking red brick building housing the Riga Maternity Hospital, and by the trams passing incessantly along the street. In recent years, however, creative businesses have begun to recompose this collage, gathering informally along certain stretches of the street. Walking about in this area, there’s an atmosphere of freedom, the newcomers getting on well with the denizens of this peaceful quarter.

The clusters of shops, cafes and salons along Miera iela began with the early birds, creative entrepreneurs who later attracted kindred neighbours. Taša, Anita Maskaļska’s handicrafts salon, for instance, arrived on Miera iela by intuition. Soon the tea salon Illuseum found a home next door, and after a while other shops and cafes sprouted in the vicinity. At the furthest end of the street, ideas found fertile ground in a similar fashion – next to the design boutique XX gadsimts, the houseplant exchange Mājas svētība found its premises on the recommendation of the owners of the nearby ceramics gallery, Muhamors.

Side-streets hide establishments and institutions that are also part of this quarter – the identity of Annas iela, for instance, is bound to the Technical Innovation House Annas 2, which organizes street festivals as Ring the doorbell well as 2ANNAS, an annual festival of short films. Aristīda Briāna iela, meanwhile, is notable for the club — Laura Ziemele un Renāte Pablaka, Piens – Milk – and the delicatessens and eateries that have sprouted up around it. Once a year the usually owners of the houseplant exchange point Mājas svētība packed club empties out – when the Piens Festival turns the block’s courtyard space into an open-air (Aspidistra) living room with a market and a musical programme. Architect Renāte thought To get into Mājas Both they themselves Neither Laura nor Informal cooperation among the creative residents up Mājas svētība while svētība, you have to and their visitors have Renāte are gardeners, is evident not only in virtual gatherings but also sitting at her computer ring the doorbell. had to understand that but they believe that in a unified vision for the future and in Thursdays’ and seeing how people the cash register is not anything can be learnt Miera iela happy hour, when there are special offers were exchanging plants The most useful support here by accident. from a Youtube video. throughout the quarter. Plans by the Ministry of over the internet. It for new entrepreneurs Culture to transform the former tobacco factory nearby seemed that a physical would be the opportunity Besides the plant »»majassvetiba.lv into a multifunctional innovative space could attract location for the exchange not to spend money exchange, Mājas more adventurous entrepreneurs and artists. In the would be a good idea. – special conditions svētība has a cafe, sells meantime, the Miera iela family lives on in harmony, for landlords and flowerpots, t-shirts and drawing both visitors and new neighbours. I simplified tax payment. bags, as well as offering replanting services.

Miera iela 14 15 Miera iela Education, Food and drink CLUBS

culture, support 9. Taka 13. Piens Meals made with love, exhibitions, concerts Concerts, hipsters, French pastries, 1. Annas 2 Technical Innovation House Miera iela 10, pataku.wordpress.com, @BarsTaka bicycle workshop Workshops with a technical and technological A. Briāna iela 9, piens.nu, @klubspiens bent for those aged 6-25 10. DAD cafe Annas iela 2, tjn.lv Youth with the Dalai Lama’s smile, 14. Kefīrs food, live music, exhibitions If you’re not milk, you’re kefir – for those who don’t 2. Melnais Knābis – The Black Beak Miera iela 17, dadcafe.lv, @DADcafe get through the face control next door Hair salon, library, gallery and performance space A. Briāna iela 9a, klubskefirs.lv, @KlubsKefirs Miera iela 39 11. Illuseum A reincarnation of the teashop Goija; cult drinks and books GREEN LIFESTYLE Miera iela 19, illuseum.blogspot.com Alojas iela Vintage 15. Dabas dobe 12. Fontaine Deli Snack Riga Fairtrade eco-products, seasonal produce 3. XX gadsimts – The 20th Century A branch of the legendary Liepaja deli, Miera iela 15, dabasdobe.lv, @DabasDobe 8 A careful selection of furniture, lamps and dishes; international fast food Kr.Valdemāra iela 12 14 clothing rental Briāna iela 9a, @FontaineRiga Tallinas iela 13 Miera iela 39, 20gadsimts.lv 7 3 4. Ze Store 2 Old chairs, gadgets and records, restored sofas, skis Miera iela 17, zestore.blogspot.com, @ze_store Palīdzības ielaA.Briāna iela

Handicrafts and Alojas iela Annas iela

green thumbs 8 1 Kr.Valdemāra iela 12 6 14 5. Buteljons Tallinas iela 11 13 Glass recycling point; clothing exchange 15 4 Maiznīcas iela 10 Miera iela 10 7 3 2 6. Taša 9 Jackets, pullovers, wool, workshops and esoterica Palīdzības ielaA.Briāna iela 5 Weirdoes in the best Miera iela 19, @bodeTASHA 7. Mājas svētība Miera iela Houseplant exchange, natural fertilizers, tea Annas iela sense of the word Miera iela 39, majassvetiba.lv, @majassvetiba Brīvības iela 1 8. Puka dizains 6 — Anita Masaļska, owner of the Taša crafts salon Upcycling – turning the old into the new; 11 furniture restoration 15 4 Maiznīcas iela 10 Before arriving in Miera iela, the salon The salon’s client base consists of Miera iela 50, puka.lv was located in a narrow space in Brīvības eccentrics – weirdoes in the best sense of iela, which had exhausted its potential the word. 9 over 7 years. Came to Miera iela by 5 chance and started gathering others Greeting a passerby from time to time around themselves. through the salon’s open doors, she admits to a strong cooperation with their Miera iela Rent is high, and events and activities Miera iela neighbours – they often visit are paid for from their own pocket. Taša one other, advertise each other and make Brīvības iela is an expensive hobby rather than a joint arrangements. business. @bodeTASHA 0 100m 200m

Miera iela 16 17 Miera iela

0 100m 200m Ūnijas iela 6 iela Krimuldas 5

Bērzaunes iela Brīvības iela Turaidas iela 2 4 3 1

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Ieriķu iela

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Ūnijas iela A place to iela 6 Krimuldas 5

Bērzaunes iela Brīvības iela expand Turaidas iela 2 4 3 1

— VEF 4 4

Ieriķu iela

Former factory spaces with very high the other side of Brīvības iela was 4. Studios: Blankblank, ceilings and low rents have been adapted home to Dutchbike.lv, a used bicycle Education, Ilze Vanaga, Nils Vilnis, for creative work in many a city. Riga workshop. Black Friday, a venue for Sabīne Vekmane, Anda residents first learned of the presence of dark music, is located next door. Taken culture, Lāce, Daiga Krūze, Kristaps artists at VEF in 2008, when Kaspars together, they add an alternative face to Zariņš and others Lielgalvis and Dāvis Līcītis initiated a a post-industrial area that has thus far support Ūnijas iela 8, 1., 2., 6. korpuss concert and exhibit programme called been touched only in a small degree. Art Days in Little New York. Though 1. Totaldobže Art Centre the first event drew only perhaps two The VEF quarter is more closed off Exhibits, lectures, concerts, Cycling and hundred people, it threw open the gates than the creative quarters in central poetry, dance, artists’ residences of what had until then been something Riga – it isn’t as easily grasped. The Ūnijas iela 8, 7. korpuss, extreme of a self-contained artists’ commune. artists are therefore forced to find totaldobze.com fresh ways of attracting an audience sports Though the structures at VEF have and helping those who visit find barely changed since the factory closed the right doors of perception. One Fashion, 5. Volcomparks (VEF its doors, the events held here bear potential direction became clear superpark) From entertainment to education witness to how exceedingly lively this on White Night 2010, when various art, design An indoor skate park; youth activities quarter can be. One of the0 epicentres150m is parts300m of the VEF complex that were — Kaspars Lielgalvis, artist, the 7th building, where the Totaldobže hitherto unexplored by most became 2. Galerija Ziema Brīvības gatve 214b, Art Centre makes its home. Instead of unique sites for artistic events. This is An art gallery and bar; Sunday VEF 5. korpuss, head of the VEF Totaldobže art centre concentrating on entertainment, as a place with room for expansion. I brunch and social evenings volcomparks.lv, @volcomparks in past years, centre director Kaspars Ūnijas iela 8, 2. korpuss, Lielgalvis has now shifted the focus to @GalerijaZIEMA 6. Dutchbike.lv Came to VEF when with a bar, but this creates Receives substantial education – discussions and exhibits Used bicycles looking for a place the absurd situation of support from the owners involving artists, critics, curators and 3. Open Silkscreen Brīvības iela 193d, dutchbike.lv, for his studio. selling alcohol to cover of the premises – both other creative professionals. Along Studio Luste @dutchbikelv cultural expenses. in the form of low rents with the culture on offer, the bar Ziema Do-it-yourself concept, Over time, has become and other means. has survived its first season, recently T-shirts, etc. aware that events can’t Is attempting to taking on the status of an art gallery. Ūnijas iela 8, 6. korpuss be held for free, since shift the art centre’s Is looking for people The initiator of the project, Edgars this will lead to the programme from a interested in the idea of Ābele, applied the formula “how to eventual extinction of the focus on entertainment the art centre who would create a space without spending money alternative culture sector. events to cultural and like to work there. or taking out a loan”; as a result, the Concedes that it may be educational activities. authenticity of the space was preserved possible to make money »»totaldobze.com but made homey. As a pleasant contrast to the quarter’s art and culture scene,

VEF 18 19 VEF Virtually nothing is bought Do it yourself – pay less! — Edgars Ābele un Sabīne Vekmane, landlords of the Ziema gallery and bar — Katrīna Sauškina, artist, co-owner of the Luste silkscreen studio

Ziema was initially The no-money approach Lustes operates by a do-it-yourself The main thing is having a surface to opened as a bar, later is also reflected in price principle, since the silk-screening work on; the rest is inconsequential. becoming a gallery and policy – they are as low technique is simple enough for anyone spot for Sunday brunch, as the owners can afford. to master. The rates for printing also act Lustes has received support from frequently accompanied as an incentive. Do it yourself - pay less. the Atspēriens grant programme. by musical performances. VEF is located sufficiently The funds were channelled into close to the centre, The studio is open to offsite the purchase of a professional When setting up Ziema, but is a very peaceful activities for students in Riga’s printing table and exposure unit. Edgars tried out an environment at the same mainstream and art schools. approach of “how to time – there are almost Believes bicycle paths would help the create a space without no cars, and on evenings The distance from the centre of town city come alive. taking out a loan or and weekends it feels like is not a problem – the Gaisa Bridge is spending any money”. being at the countryside. more of a psychological barrier. The tram Virtually nothing is from Barona centrs reaches VEF just as bought; all the materials @GalerijaZIEMA quickly as the Central Market in the and other things have opposite direction. come from swapping or just taking them over from other people, who have proved to be very cooperative.

VEF 20 21 VEF Eyes wide open — The Quiet Centre

The more people talk, the more things happen A preconception about the atmosphere The most dynamic point in this The Quiet Centre is characterized of Riga’s Quiet Centre being composed neighbourhood is where Antonijas iela not only by expensive real estate, but — Elīna Dobele, architect, creator of the footwear design label ZoFA of bevies of tourists losing themselves and Elizabetes iela intersect. Despite also by quality in everything from in Art Nouveau quarters, embassies and the somewhat melancholy atmosphere the food and drinks available in this apartment buildings full of diplomats, in this block, people regularly gather quarter to the urban environment itself. During the very depths Opened the ZoFa atelier Agreed on a rent rebate Is used to believing Is friends with the would be behind the times. These days, here, many headed for Botanica Cafe, According to the architect Austris of the architecture and in the Quiet Centre in for the first year with the in herself, but is neighbouring Open AD what first comes to mind about this which serves fresh, locally grown food Mailītis, a resident of this quarter, the construction crisis, 2011. While searching landlord, received LVL aware of her lack of architecture office and neighbourhood is its array of trend- of known origin, or Vīna studija if they reason Riga is sometimes called “the created her first footwear for a place, she thought 6000 for the purchase management experience. Ars Tela linen studio. setting restaurants, shops and cafes. are wine lovers. On the corner, you have Little ” can be found in the Quiet collection and the ZoFa of her customers – where of equipment from the In a short space of time, promising to keep your eyes open not only for Centre – there are many trees, and small brand in late 2008. it would be convenient Atspēriens programme and Lacks time and energy Wants to conquer the architectural and design firms have the endless stream of cars, but also the gardens often separate the buildings and interesting for them LVL 5000 for the creation for many things due international market begun to cluster in the luxurious apart- streams of creative people hurrying past from the sidewalks. Taken together, the to visit. Artists, wealthy of the atelier from the to all the red tape. and create a conceptual ments of the area. Some are located on in every direction. streets draw you in with their variety people and tourists Brigāde programme. footwear collection. upper floors, but among those at street and you can wander aimlessly, if only are all to be found in Uses Facebook and Twitter level that passersby might peek into are If you’ve gotten an overdose of crowds to gaze at the facades, sometimes the Quiet Centre. – the more people talk, »»zofa.lv the OPEN AD design studio and the and noise, you can seek shelter in the renovated, sometimes abandoned to a the more things happen. architectural firm MARK. quiet side-streets – perfect places to thick patina of age and neglect. I savour those tourist staples, Art Nouveau buildings. In one such building you’ll find the Centre for Contemporary Art, offering an art library, exhibits, lectures and information for all. The Quiet Centre 22 23 The Quiet Centre 17 Hanzas iela 10 Valkas iela

Lenču iela 15 Vidus iela Dzirnavu iela

E.Melngaiļa iela 11

5 Eksporta iela Eksporta

Ausekļa iela 14 2 6 8 16 Alberta iela

Vīlandes iela 9 Rūpniecības iela 1 Pulkveža Brieža iela 3 Dzirnavu iela Elizabetes iela Strēlnieku iela 7 15

13 Elizabetes iela

A.Pumpura iela 4 Antonijas iela 12 Kr.Valdemāra iela

ARCHITECT

17 Hanzas iela Live more 10 STUDIOS Valkas iela

Lenču iela 8. 1plus1 — Austris Mailītis, architect at Mailītis A.I.I.M. 15 Vidus iela The office of Mārtiņš Pīlēns, winner of the Latvian Dzirnavu iela Architects’ Association’s Grand Prix 2010 E.Melngaiļa iela Elizabetes iela 7–3, 1plus1.lv 11

5 Eksporta iela Eksporta

Ausekļa iela 14 2 6 9. Mailītis A.I.I.M 8 16 Alberta iela The Mailītis family office – designers of the Has set up an office Vīlandes iela 9 Rūpniecības iela 1 Pulkveža Brieža iela 3 and flat in a building Dzirnavu iela Latvian pavilion at Shanghai’s EXPO 2010 Elizabetes iela on the corner of Strēlnieku iela 7 Elizabetes iela 7, mailitis.lv 15 Elizabetes and Ausekļa with an impressive 13 Elizabetes iela 10. MARK tower-like staircase. A.Pumpura iela Award-winning architects, models in the windows 4 Valkas iela 3/5, mark.lv Antonijas iela In winter, when the trees 12 Kr.Valdemāra iela have no leaves, the view 0 150m 300m 11. OPEN AD from the office window The office of Zane Tetere, designer of stretches to Ķīpsala. Riga’s most exceptional interiors Antonijas iela 24, openad.lv Likes the Quiet Centre due to its tree-lined streets and beautiful buildings Education, Fashion, art, Food and drink with front gardens. culture, support design 12. Rossini The Quiet Centre has a The Riga address of the lovely centre of its own at the 1. The Latvian Centre for Contemporary Art 4. Māksla XO galerija Valmiera restaurant and pizzeria crossing of Elizabetes and Library, Ofisa galerija, the Survival Kit Contemporary Latvian art A. Pumpura iela 6, rossini.lv Antonijas, where people festival, lectures Elizabetes iela 14, makslaxogalerija.lv meet in coffee shops Alberta iela 13, lcca.lv, @LCCA_lv 13. Vīna studija and there is more traffic. 5. ZoFA ateljē An unhurried place to get into wine culture Ahead, the buildings 2. The State Culture Capital Foundation The architect Elīna Dobele’s shoe shop and workshop Elizabetes iela 10, vinastudija.lv, @vinastudija merge smoothly with Funding for cultural projects Antonijas iela 22, zofa.lv, @Zo_FA the rest of the city. Vīlandes iela 3, kkf.lv 14. Winiveria Vinoteca 6. Ars Tela A Georgian wine bar with character and good taste Feels that one can live 3. The School of Economics Riga Alvida Kauliņa’s linen studio – works Strēlnieku iela 9, gruzijasvini.lv, @Winiveria more in post-economic Education in economics and business, and a library from fine linen fabrics crisis Riga – there is Strēlnieku iela 4a, sseriga.edu.lv, @SSE_Riga Antonijas iela 20b, arstela.lv 15. A.L.L. Cappuccino more time, more nice An urbane, inviting place at the foot cafes, more bicycles 7. Madam Bonbon of a quiet residential building on the streets. 0 150m 300m A shoe store located in a unique Vīlandes iela 13, Antonijas iela 11 apartment; Latvian fashion Takes a positive view Alberta iela 1–7a, madambonbon.lv, 16. Art café Sienna of architects and other @Madam_Bonbon Exhibitions, artistic souvenirs, coffee and cakes offices moving to Strēlnieku iela 3, sienna.lv the ground floors of buildings as this opens 17. Hanzas 28 up the street level. A tea salon with an Eastern interior Hanzas iela 28, @Hanzas28 »»mailitis.lv

The Quiet Centre 24 25 The Quiet Centre Industrial ambience — Andrejsala Andrejsala was the original epicentre of alternative sites for culture in Riga. Led by an initiative for the development of a new Riga, it became the first de-industrialized area to be settled by artists and other creative people trying to fill an empty niche in the city’s cultural scene. Near the River and not far from the yacht club and the port’s passenger terminal, this quarter quite rapidly became a destination for a diverse crowd. Swiftly springing up and soon suffering an overdose of competing visions for future development, Andrejsala has now fallen rather quiet, the silence mostly broken by Scandinavian tourists bussed in to obtain cheap alcohol, and the activities of the First Dacha club.

This apparent semi-extinction is illusory, however. From what was a sort of theme park for those seeking alternative culture, Andrejsala has been transformed into a home for creative industries. Though some of the residents spend time together, the direction they have taken is work, not entertainment. The presence of Creative Andrejsala is proof of that; a business incubator, its principal function is to support creative entrepreneurs. Despite stereotypes about partying in open offices designed in the style of playgrounds, LIAA project manager Liene Kuplā Comes with initiative emphasizes the fact that there is no pressure to socialize – the businesspeople who’ve found a base — Rihards Funts, RIJADA designer here being determined to carve out their individual empires. There are also innovative residents outside the incubator – the design studio RIJADA, known The space in Andrejsala Has put up a net for the creation of various icons of Latvian design, makes it possible to and drawn a court relocated from VEF to Andrejsala, where it augmented develop and transform for badminton at its reputation by bringing new life to the streets – – it can be both a closed Andrejsala; often plays badminton and basketball have come to the island. workshop and a publicly basketball with the accessible showroom. salespeople from the Whilst Andrejsala awaits major developments alcohol wholesale store. centred around the planned Contemporary Art The windows of the Museum coming into being, freakbikers continue studio are like a TV Andrejsala has space welding rides in their familiar garage and the doors – watch ships during enough – if you come of the Latvian Museum of Naïve Art remain open. the day, and at night, with your own initiative, Though the period of intense partying here has dressed-up people no one will stand in your passed, both the open space at the southern end walking from their cars way. Representatives of the island as well as the jetty at the north end, to the First Dacha club. of diverse fields have with its ambient sounds of cargo being loaded and currently made their unloaded in the harbour, offer public space of a Doesn’t like the municipal homes here, each one type that is rarely found in a modern metropolis. police driving people working determinedly away from Andrejsala – in their own direction. »»andrejsala.lv even the old man sitting on the riverfront quietly »»rijada.lv with his bottle of beer.

Andrejsala 26 27 Andrejsala Education, Fashion, art, BIcycle culture

culture, support design 11. Club Velozaurs The place for freakbikes and freakbike lovers, 1. The Latvian Museum of Naïve Art 5. RIJADA workshop, exhibits, films, and a bar Naïve art from the 18th century to today Product design studio and showroom Andrejostas iela 4, Galdniecība, freakbike.lv, Andrejostas iela 4, noass.lv, @Noass_LV Andrejostas iela 4, rijada.lv @Yaatnieki

2. Театр сна. Sapņu teātris. 6. Angel Glass Design 12. Karters The Dream Theatre Glass design studio and showroom A trial-biking school A Russian youth theatre Andrejostas iela 4a, angel.lv Andrejostas iela 4, karters.lv Andrejostas iela 4, Elektrocehs, teatrsna.edicypages.com 7. ArtBag Bag design studio, internet workshop, shop 3. Komutators Andrejostas iela 4a, artbag.lv, @ArtBag_LV ENTERTAINMENT Metal art centre, exhibits, performances, concerts Andrejostas iela 4, web.me.com/komutators 8. Keitas kiosks 13. Lūzumpunkts Fashion design studio and shop Adventure organization 4. Creative Andrejsala Andrejostas iela 4, 030470.com Andrejostas iela 4, luzumpunkts.lv Business incubation services, premises, consulting Andrejostas iela 4a, creativeandrejsala.lv, @c_sala 9. Patrīcija Brekte’s studio Peahen 14. First Дača Drawing lessons for adults and children House music club, lounge bar Daugava > Andrejostas iela 4, korpusu cehs, peahen.eu Andrejostas iela 4, @FirstDacha

10. Artists’ studios Evelīna Deičmane, Uģis Bērziņš, Ritums Ivanovs 11 FOOD AND DRINK 3 2 1 6 4 15 15. Bufete 7 dienas ēstuve ar jumta terasi Andrejostas iela 14 13 12 Andrejostas iela 4, Enkura nams 5 9 8 10

Eksporta iela

Without spending money Daugava > 11 — Evelīna Deičmane, sound installation artist 3 2 1 6 15 7 4 Chose a studio in Andrejsala instead Convinced that people who work Andrejostas iela 14 13 12 of the VEF area in order to invest alongside each other quickly develop 5 9 less money in fixing up the space. a sense of solidarity, helping each 8 10 other out. Sometimes they just play The early goodwill of the Andrejsala badminton and sit on the roof together. Eksporta iela building owners towards artists has diminished over time. To create larger works, she uses artist residencies in .

In Riga, an artist learns how to work with a minimum of resources, and it is much easier to get noticed here.

0 150m 300m

Andrejsala 28 29 Andrejsala

0 150m 300m A synergy of services — Bergs Bazaar

Nordic. The presence of creativity-stimulating tenants is also in evidence on the street level. The ¼ Satori Birojnīca coworking space is an innovative arrival to the While it is a common presumption that Bergs Bazaar scene. Rolands Puhovs, one of its founders, explains is orientated towards a more affluent public, a recent that Birojnīca’s objective is to create a high-quality diversification in tenants has also caused a shift in its co-working infrastructure for as low a price as possible. target audience – new creative enterprises have sprung With this aim in mind, the working places for rent up alongside established residents, bringing a bustle have been combined with a bookstore, which further Exceeding the boundaries of activity to the pedantically maintained labyrinth transforms into a lecture space on weekday evenings. of courtyards. Unlike the majority of the creative At the other end of the courtyard labyrinth, a window quarters, Bergs Bazaar is a purposefully cultivated display of futuristic locally-designed bicycles draws the business structure and not a spontaneous concentration attention of passersby, and lets them take a peek at the of the quarterS of enterprises. Aleksis Karlsons, representative of goings-on of the Arhiidea architecture office within. the quarter’s owners, reveals that a careful selection process for tenants most consistent with the concept Although visually closed off from adjacent streets, the — Imants Gross, Director of the Norden Nordic Council of Ministers’ Office of the Bazaar is in place, with preference being given quarter is open and accommodating, as evidenced by to interesting candidates with sustainable strategies of its human-scale buildings, well-developed facilities Sees Bergs Bazaar as a well- are usually city-wide, regional or Engages in social media, but recognizes existence, who have the potential to participate in the and greenery, and overall accessibility. To a great kempt and commercial area with international rather than local in scale. the value of TV shows too. The Norden- development of a stable synergy of services along with extent, the environment of Bergs Bazaar is dictated potential. Assumes that the creative supported Ziemeļu Puse (Northern the other tenants. by the demands of its heart, Hotel Bergs, but tourism environment of the quarter could Considers aid and subsidies to be Style) is a success story with all 46 has not harmed the substance and spatial qualities of be strengthened; it has potential. designed for kick-starting healthy, series now sold to Lithuanian television. The top storeys of the quarter have become home the quarter. Interestingly, it was right here that the sustainable projects – some empty This marks the first time Lithuania to residents, city guests, and offices. Particular note green and independent farmers’ market movement They cooperate with the neighbouring premises in Riga were distributed has bought a TV show from Latvia. should be made of the Nordic Council of Ministers’ found its feet, making Bergs Bazaar a pioneer in the Danish Cultural Institute, but the to a number of projects, not all Office – besides providing support for artistic and development of a humane urban environment. multidisciplinary initiatives of Norden of which were sustainable. »»norden.lv cultural initiatives, Norden also has an open access media library devoted to the exploration of all things »»bergabazars.lv, @bazars

Bergs Bazaar 30 31 Bergs Bazaar Education Architect studios Food and drink SOCIALLY ACTIVE culture, support 8. Arhiidea 12. Kanēļa konditoreja Modular homes, urban design, bicycle design Coffee, tea, cakes, cookies, salads 1. Norden, Nordic Council Marijas iela 13/2 – 18b, arhiidea.lv Dzirnavu iela 84, kanelakonditoreja.lv — Toms Kokins, architect, of Ministers’ Office Library, media library, grant programmes 9. Zaigas Gailes birojs 13. Franču maiznīca Cadets de Gascogne Marijas iela 13/3, norden.lv, @norden_lv Wooden, stone and Soviet heritage Croissants, baguettes, freshly squeezed urbanist, Arhiidea building restoration juice, international press 2. Danish Cultural Institute Marijas iela 12/4, zgb.lv Marijas iela 13/4, cadets.lv Arhiidea also designs smaller Cultural events, conferences, social objects – from the Eslice modular dialogue, experience exchange visits 14. Andalūzijas Suns pub homes to bicycles and furniture. Marijas iela 13/3, dki.lv, dankultur.dk Classic international cuisine, lunch, Green lifestyle happy hour, dinner, exhibitions

The office moved from a closed 3. ¼ Satori and Birojnīca Elizabetes iela 83/85, andaluzijassuns.lv, Dzirnavu iela space in Alberta iela to the ground Bookstore, lecture space, co-working 10. Otrā elpa @AndaluzijasSuns floor of a Bergs Bazaar building space, fax, printer, internet, drinks Second hand charity shop, social projects 17 with a large display window. Dzirnavu iela 84/2 satori.lv, @SatoriLV Marijas iela 13, otraelpa.lv, @otra_elpa 15. Garage wine bar 12 Wines, open kitchen, design concept store 3 The new premises are not made 4. Kino Suns 11. Farmers’ and craftsmen’s market Elizabetes iela 83/85, vinabars.lv 18 for being idle, and one must look Independent cinema, festival films, lecture series Second and fourth Saturday of every month 6 decent, since Zaiga Gaile glances Elizabetes iela 83/85, kinogalerija.lv Berga Bazāra pagalmos, bergabazars.lv 16. Gourmet Studio through the windows each day. Armagnac and chocolate bar, spices, 11 delicatessen, seminars 16 Believes that any casual passerby can Marijas iela 13/4, gourmet-studio.lv 14 13 become a client – many are drawn by the Fashion, art, bicycles visible in the display window. 17. S. Brevinga alus salons 4 Elizabetes iela 19 design Draught and bottled beers from around the world 2 The changes at Arhiidea are connected Dzirnavu iela 84, @AlusSalons 1 to a desire to become socially active, 5. Klase 15 5 taking part in debates and events. Shop and representatives of Latvian 18. Gastropub Cydonia 7 10 fashion; clothing, footwear, accessories Organic cuisine, Latvian farmers’ produce, 8 »»arhiidea.lv Elizabetes iela 85A, modesklase.lv, @modesKLASE children’s playroom 9 Dzirnavu iela 84, cydonia.lv 6. Proud2B Fashion store and art space, design, 19. Restorāns Bergs

photography, interior design Dzirnavu iela Boutique hotel restaurant, sophisticated Dzirnavu iela 86, p2bfashion.com international cuisine, gourmet dinners Elizabetes iela 83/85, hotelbergs.lv 17 7. Gallery Arte 12 Marijas iela Art and interior design objects, 3 exhibitions, event space 18 Marijas iela 13/2, galerijabb.lv 6

11 16 14 13

4 Elizabetes iela 19 2 1 15 5 7 10 8 9

0 25m 50m

Marijas iela Bergs Bazaar 32 33 Bergs Bazaar

0 25m 50m A desire for stability — Spīķeri

To meet people and have a chat — Māris Prombergs, organizer of the Dirty Deal Cinema Club Cultural events and gastronomic integration with the other tenants. Uldis owner of the Kitchen restaurant, whose inclinations are the key reasons for a Dinne, owner of Spīķeri, considers that clients tend to shop there after a meal. Organizes the cinema Launched the cinema People who come to the Has understood that visit to Spīķeri, a yet untamed section in order for a quarter to be alive, its club in cooperation club thinking it would cinema club notice there informing people about of Riga lying behind the railway venues must complement one another. Spīķeri residents also have a tendency with foreign embassies attract young artists is a theatre next door, and neighbouring events embankment. Here, the proximity of to rotate, but among the larger tenants and cultural centres. and film industry start visiting that as well draws a larger audience the Central Market begets a healthy and Spending time in Spīķeri, it seems that a desire for stability can be felt. Despite people: “Nothing of the – at moments like these to his own evenings contrasting mix of people and services, its main niche is a kind of select culture. its lively everyday life, the quarter With the addition of kind! They sit at home Dirty Deal really feels – if they’re interested adding to the social diversity of the city. This is demonstrated by the coexistence currently functions as an isolated lectures on diverse watching Youtube and like a house of culture. in one thing, they As a purposefully cultivated quarter, of diverse institutions – the kim? and not yet fully discovered island in cultures and social downloading films from might try something Spīķeri has a positive brand image and Contemporary Art Centre, pioneer of the colourful sea of the surrounding environments, the the internet.” The majority new along the way. an intelligent saturation of functions. alternative culture Dirty Deal, the State urban environment. Hopefully, the films become a tool of visitors are in their The public-private partnership approach Chamber Orchestra Sinfonietta Rīga, the planned neighbourhood clean-up and encouraging the exchange thirties and older, coming »»dirtydeal.lv is being tested within the quarter’s Latvian Music Information Centre, and bike path connection with the city of experiences and ideas. to the cinema club as a development, envisaging cooperation the Latvian Radio Choir have all founds centre will improve communication, social event – to meet between the quarter’s owners and the homes here. In the Spīķeri quarter, while retaining the unique people and have a chat. municipality, as well as governmental high-quality food is also considered part microclimate of Maskavas iela. I and non-governmental organizations. of culture – both a number of shops There is also a diversity to be observed selling the produce of Latvian farmers »»spikeri.lv, @spikeri among the Spīķeri inhabitants – no and several different concept restaurants more than a third of the area has can be found here. The heart of the been allocated to representatives of quarter is the night market, and its the creative industries, thus achieving significance is brought up by Jānis Jenzis,

Spīķeri 34 35 Spīķeri The coexistence of kim?, the Dirty Deal The initial concept of kim? has changed – Education, cultural hub and Restaurant Kitchen is publishing activities and international culture, support enjoyable and mutually beneficial. cooperation have gained priority. Patronage and philanthropy are relatively The number of visitors is not the only 1. Spīķeri Concert Hall undeveloped in Latvia. The basis of criteria for success, as kim?’s events draw a Home of the Chamber Orchestra Sinfonietta Rīga, the kim?’s existence is support from the state variety of audiences. Latvian Radio Choir, the Latvian Music Information and municipality. Centre, and the Framest Studio recording studio Initially, the focus was more on young Maskavas iela 4/1, spikerukoncertzale.lv, Has observed that everyone looks out for people, while kim?’s current priority is @spikerukoncertz themselves at Spīķeri, coming together gaining the attention of professionals in at certain moments. the field. 2. kim? Contemporary Art Centre Three exhibition halls, lectures, reading room »»kim.lv Maskavas iela 12/1, kim.lv, @kim_riga

3. Riga Ghetto and Latvian Holocaust Museum The former ghetto territory, unscathed by the ravages of time, heading towards reconstruction 6 Maskavas iela 14a, rgm.lv 7 8 Maskavas iela 4. Dirty Deal 1 Independent cultural centre; theatre and other festival venue Coming together at certain moments Maskavas iela 12/2, dirtydeal.lv, @dirtydeal 9 2 — Zane Onckule, Director of kim? Contemporary Art Centre 4 5 Green lifestyle 10 Krasta iela

5. Foldlife < Daugava Corrugated cardboard furniture for all occasions 3 Maskavas iela 12/2, foldlife.lv, @foldlife.lv Turgeņeva iela From the first plastic table Food and drink 6. Desa & Co Venison and wild boar meat; gourmet bistro — Jānis Jenzis, restaurant owner Maskavas iela 4, zemitani.lv

Has been working in A different concept He would like the 7. Merlin the hospitality industry and environment have business world and Beer restaurant and chill over three 6 7 from the very first plastic been developed for each controlling institutions storeys; international cuisine 8 Maskavas iela table that appeared after restaurant, but they share (the police, Food and Maskavas iela 4, merlin.lv, @MerlinSpikeri 1 Latvian independence. prices, quality and good Veterinary Service, service. etc.) to understand that 8. Pirosmani In 2009, with a “great everyone has a common Georgian restaurant and shrine to the art of depression” ruling all At the launch of his aim – bringing order to famous primitivist painter Niko Pirosmani 9 2 around, he and his business, he received our environment and Maskavas iela 6, restaurant-pirosmani.lv 4 5 partners opened the support from building society. 10 Ostas skati restaurant in proprietors in the form 9. Restaurant Kitchen Krasta iela Cheeseburgers; dessert according to Ķīpsala. This was followed of rent rebates. The »»restaurantkitchen.lv < Daugava by other popular spots – municipality fixed the the chef ’s fancy; Latvian art 3 the Garāža wine bar in holes in the road at Maskavas iela 12/1, restaurantkitchen.lv, Turgeņeva iela Bergs Bazaar, the Kitchen Ķīpsala and clear snow @restaurantkchn restaurant in Spīķeri and away, while employees the cafe in the new Riga have been trained with 10. Nakts tirgus Bourse museum. the support of EU funds. Vegetables, berries and fruit; open-air canteen; officially from 10pm, in reality – from the afternoonoficiāli no 22.00, reāli – jau pēcpusdienā 0 50m 100m Nēģu iela 7

Spīķeri 36 37 Spīķeri

0 50m 100m A carousel of events — Kalnciema Quarter

Order breeds order — Kārlis un Mārtiņš Dambergs, Kalnciema Quarter owners

Although Riga has more wooden and film nights in the garden and that although all activities stem from Emphasize the principle They take a positive They feel that the The support they are architecture than any other European its improvised open-air cinema. the initiative of the owners, they are that private owners tend view of the integration heaviest burden is the most in need of is tax city, the town currently holds no rival also regularly adapted to fluctuations to respond to tangible, of Kalnciema disproportionately relief for the quarter, to the Kalnciema Quarter – at least The Kalnciema Quarter courtyard is in visitor demands, while remaining positive steps by the Quarter within the high taxes imposed on with its well-kempt until the planned Koka Rīga (Wooden open to all, but market days, usually vigilant regarding cultural diversity municipality with the neighbourhood, since cleaned-up, creative areas. territory and creative Riga) centre is unveiled in Grīziņkalns. coinciding with other events – films, and the high quality of the market. same – order breeds order, locals feel a sense of activities open to all. The contrast between shop windows musical performances, and the carousel Promoting an unhurried attitude while in the case of being belonging and pride filled with contemporary design salon - bring an influx of visitors and cultural towards food, culture, and other things, ignored everything moves regarding the quarter. »»kalnciemaiela.lv wares and the cluster of restored vitality. Some of the quarter’s tenants the atmosphere of the quarter’s markets in the opposite direction. »»@kalnciemiela wooden buildings in their historical lead an independent existence, others echoes the robustness of its wooden environment forms a one-of-a-kind adapting to the saturated schedule – buildings. Even kebabs have found composition at the corner of Kalnciema it’s no wonder that the first floor wine their place in the market, although and Melnsila. During events, the bustle shop’s opening hours tend to coincide it is more likely these act as a resort of buyers and sellers draws attention with market days and other events. for visitors who can’t face the long to the quarter. The neighbourhood Liene Griezīte, an architect involved in queues at the Slow Food stands. I is also enlivened by evening concerts planning the life of the quarter, explains

Kalnciema Quarter 38 39 Kalnciema Quarter Architecture, Bicycle culture Market

construction and 5. Run Rabbit Bicycle 8. Farmers’ and craftsmen’s products; concerts; Selling used and restored bicycles cinema; workshops design Melnsila iela 13, rrbicycle.lv, @RRBicycle Dates to be announced, kalnciemaiela.lv, @Kalnciemaiela 1. Xcelsior Architecture office, furniture and design classics Kalnciema iela 37, xcelsior.lv Food and drink

2. Arhitektes Lienes Griezītes studija 6. Da Vinchi wine shop Architecture firm specializing in the Wine from small Italian wineries restoration of wooden buildings Kalnciema iela 35, kalnciemaiela.lv/da_vinchi Kalnciema iela 35 7. Restaurant Māja 3. Krauklis Grende Fine cuisine with detailed Architecture firm specializing in information on product origin eco-friendly construction Kalnciema iela 37, restoransmaja.lv,

Kalnciema iela 33, passiv.lv @Restorans_Maja Melnsila iela

4. BC Grupa Real estate, restoration, wooden flooring, Zhiguli’s Kalnciema iela 35, kalnciemaiela.lv 3 5 7 4 2 8 6

1

Melnsila iela

Kalnciema iela

3 5 Collective quality 7 8 4 2 — Liene Griezīte, architect, Director of Arhitektes Lienes Griezītes studija 6 1 Collective qualities have Considers it impossible To avoid becoming a Despite a collaborative now taken priority over to work for long without victim of their own effort with Live Riga, few the aesthetics focused on profit, but at the events, the members of tourists visit. originally. same time, a sense of the association add to Kalnciema iela accessibility should be the quarter’s programme Openness in everyday retained. cautiously – evaluating life and during events visitor responsiveness, strengthens local the quality of the market residents’ feeling of content, and exercising belonging; there is a vigilance against an mutual tolerance. oversaturation of events and musical homogeny.

0 25m 50m

Kalnciema Quarter 40 41 Kalnciema Quarter

0 25m 50m CONSTANTLY PULSATING Education, culture, support

EU House Answers to questions regarding the EU The majority of creative can be found at the EU House - a single building combining the European Parliament enterprises and initiatives seek to Information Office, the European Commission Representation in Latvia and the European unite within quarters, but some Union Information Library. Take part in discussions on EU issues important to Latvia, choose to go their own way and attend art and design exhibitions, and exchange thoughts on the EU and its future. attract attention with a unique Aspazijas bulvāris 28, esmaja.lv, @esmaja environment or activities. The Kinoskola – Film School Like in the countryside, Kinoskola offers series of lectures, creative workshops pulsation of these independent and film analysis under the guidance of experienced sites is strong enough to envisage film and acting professionals for school and university students with their sights set on a future overlooking the lake other creative initiatives flocking career in the fields of audiovisual culture and film. 13. janvāra iela 33, kinoskola.lv, @kinoskola — Pauls Kišuro, chef at Cabo Cafe around them in the future. I Ģertrūdes ielas teātris The open stage at the end of Ģertrūdes iela hosts Cabo Cafe on Ķīšezers People find Cabo Cafe Intend to expand in contemporary dance and theatre performances, Lake was created in by word of mouth; future. The construction concerts, lectures and film nights. Performances an uncultivated spot, the bar staff are active of the cafe will be developed by independent creative organizations overgrown with bushes. Twitter users. improved and a roof from Latvia and abroad provoke viewers’ Many had wanted to terrace built, offering perceptions and expand the boundaries build houses in the They would like the better views of the lake. of the performing arts. area, but a part of the municipality to carry Ģertrūdes iela 101a, git.lv, @geatris shore was left to the out improvements »»cabo.lv people after all. to infrastructure; for Dizaina Fabrika – Design Factory example, cleaning the Dizaina Fabrikā or D.FAB boasts the most They tried to retain the road in winter, which expansive exhibition space in Pārdaugava, easily quality of the site, leaving would let the cafe give found by keeping an eye out for the brick chimney the landscape unchanged. up its seasonal existence. decorated with a sculptural object on Slokas The public swimming iela. D.FAB gathers visitors for its exhibitions, An important part of area is also in need of events, and dance and theatre performances. Art the cafe’s concept is improved facilities. is given a life outside the walls of the exhibition good food. The menu space through the Art Take Away project – has a low mark-up, clothing pieces with prints by Latvian artists. making the high-quality Slokas iela 52d, dfab.lv, artakeaway.lv, @Dfabarts dishes affordable.

Spots 42 43 Spots Riga Art Space Cabo Cafe Riga Art Space, a contemporary exhibition hall A surfers’ favourite, this summer cafe on the shore Evenings under the Rātslaukums, does without a permanent of Ķīšezers Lake also welcomes those with no exhibition or its own collection. It has room for enthusiasm for water sports, who come simply Vieta both large-scale art shows and events, as well as to enjoy its food and drinks or a warm summer The landlords of Vieta are the Veto magazine smaller exhibitions in which young artists and evening dance on the terrace. After two years of a family – a group of people brought together curators make their debut. seasonal existence, Cabo Café is planning to extend by working on its content and design. During Kungu iela 3, artspace.riga.lv, @Makslastelpa its operations to the colder months. the day, spend some pleasant time buying an Roberta Feldmaņa iela 8, cabo.lv, @cabocafe original fashion accessory or flipping through some classic American comic books, and return Along with its move to the restored in the evening for a drink and a dance. neo-Renaissance style Riga Bourse building, the Made in Latvia Kr. Valdemāra 61, vetomagazine.lv, Foreign Art Museum has entered a new phase @tava_vieta of activity. The museum has the richest store of Pienene - Dandelion foreign art in Latvia, and its exhibitions offer a The green studio Pienene is a cosy cafe and souvenir Nabaklab chance to become familiar with the history of shop. It specializes in the fruits of Latvian nature – If you enjoy listening to Radio NABA and art in other countries, as well as current trends. eco-friendly toys, natural cosmetics, linen textiles, lounging on the couches at Bufete Gauja, you’ll Doma laukums 6, lnmm.lv, @MuzejsRigaBirza and dark pottery are available here, and visitors can also like the Nabaklab club. Sitting directly try local sweets, chicory coffee and herbal teas. on the border of Old Riga and the Boulevard Kungu iela 7/9, @studija_pienene Circle, Nabaklab is aimed at music fans whose taste falls outside commercial genres. Beaches and Taste Latvia Zigfrīda Annas Meierovica bulvāris 12, The best range of Latvian fashion brands nabaklab.lv, @NABAKLAB waterfronts can be found at the Taste Latvia concept store: women’s, men’s and children’s clothing, Kama Tea Hub Vecāķi beach accessories and home design items. The rational Herbal aromas from local fields and the hills of Vecāķi is known for its fresh pine forest air, beauty of the shop’s interior, designed by far-flung lands, special tea-drinking ceremonies and wooden architecture and white sandy beach. architect Brigita Bula, also merits a look. vegetarian foods can be enjoyed at Kama Tea Hub. A bicycle path runs from Riga to Vecāķi, and Galerija Centrs 4th floor, Audēju iela 16, Also catch the warm and intimate atmosphere of its it can also be reached by train or car. A small Sky & More 2nd floor, Duntes iela 19a, live music nights. stretch further up from the Vecāķi beach has tastelatvia.lv, @tastelatvia Jēkaba iela 26/28, facebook.com/KamaTeaHub long been a favourite spot for nudists. Paviljons Laundrijs Vakarbuļļi beach Starting out as a fashion show in the Vidzeme This small laundry in Teika is combined with a On hot summer days, residents of the left bank of Market meat pavilion, Paviljons subsequently cafe hosting parties, concerts and film discussion the Daugava revive themselves at the Vakarbuļļi found a place in the Domina shopping centre. evenings. Laundrijs also has a play corner to swimming area (with Blue Flag certification). Paviljons offers a wide range of work by occupy kids while mum is washing laundry or Cafes, water cycles and various other activities Latvian fashion designers, also acting as a chatting with friends over cups of coffee. A family place are also on offer here. Vakarbuļļi beach can be brand for independent fashion collections. Brīvības gatve 283, laundrijs.lv, @laundrijs reached by car or bus. Domina, Ieriķu iela 3, paviljons.lv — Jānis un Jūlija Volkinšteins, owners of the Veto magazine and Vieta bar AB dam Idille The floating arts centre on the Noass and Delicious seasonal fruit and vegetables can be found Betanovuss pontoons has proved the potential at the Idille garden produce shop in Mildas tirdziņš of the AB dam as a venue for culture, regularly (Milda’s market). Chefs at Riga’s most popular drawing crowds for the contemporary art forum restaurants appreciate the store’s wide range and Created the Vieta bar as They don’t want Vieta to On one of the occasions Use Facebook for hosting White Night, Riga City Festival and Museum Night high quality. Idille stands also appear at Latvian a forerunner to the next be a place for drinking that Veto was refused photos, while Twitter events. The annual video and contemporary Doctor’s Association and Kalnciema Quarter Veto magazine project. only, so visitors are offered funding by the State is used to share daily art festival Waterpieces is also held here.. markets, etc. a bookshelf of classic Culture Capital information. They consider noass.lv, doriangray.lv Mildas tirdziņš, E. Birznieka-Upīša iela 2, Valdemāra iela is a comics to read – its Foundation, they decided this to be sufficient – idille.lv, @iDillee good place to meet readership is small, but not to let the magazine websites are only necessary Ostas skati people, with its many steady. A corner has also die, but to finance it for those with extensive The Ostas Skati office building at the very end of offices and large flow been devoted to Jūlija’s from other sources menus and catalogues. Ķīpsala is also home to a restaurant of the same of pedestrians. During wowowo clothing and instead. A successful name, boasting ‘democratic’ prices and prime views the day school kids eat headpiece brand. minibus rental service »»vetomagazine.lv of the River Daugava. Here, suited-up business grilled sandwiches here, has been developed for »»julwowowo.blogspot.com people sit next to young artists, and expensive while people living and this purpose, and they cars are parked next to used bicycles. The small working locally arrive in also manage the building promenade and pier are an excellent example of the the evenings. housing the Veto office. development potential of Riga’s waterfront. Matrožu iela 15, restoransostasskati.lv

Spots 44 45 Spots All bicycles are not the same — The Bicycle Quarter

Riga has a rapidly growing number of cyclists, but workshop. Fixed-gear riders also have games and the city has been slow to adapt. There are still few competitions in common – the bike polo and sprint real cycle paths, and a lot of inconvenient curbs to or Ruļļu cīņas held in MiiT during the cold season. navigate. People more often leave their bicycles in stairwells several floors above the ground instead of Definitely different from all the rest, freakbikes have on the streets. Bicycle culture enthusiasts, however, found a home in the garages at Andrejsala. Freakbike are tireless in the creation of new meeting spots owners make their rides themselves, defying the and events promoting bike-riding. All bicycles limitations of traditional bicycle geometry. The are far from being the same, and so several strong Apokalipses jātnieki (Horsemen of the Apocalypse) cycling subcultures have developed in Riga. riders’ association hold occasional freakbike-making workshops, meet in the Velozaurs club and go on The mountain bikes popular in the past have colourful parades through the streets of Riga. been replaced by simple, inexpensive city bicycles, A peaceful warrior easy to manoeuvre and less effort to pedal. New Riga also has room for freestyle riders who pose shops selling second-hand bicycles imported a challenge to stairs and walls by monuments and — Toms Ērenpreiss, head of the Ērenpreiss bicycle workshop from the Netherlands, and Denmark shopping centres. The largest of the skateparks are sprouting up in Riga, and there is no shortage that have been set up are Grīziņkalns skatepark, of buyers. Since the majority of active cyclists are Monsterparks and Volcomparks. Andrejsala has The Ērenpreiss bicycle workshop Believes that the work invested in a representatives of the creative professions, these a trial-biking club and the Karters school. specializes in the restoration and restored bicycle reflects its owner’s retail and maintenance spaces are usually located in servicing of bicycles. In two years, its soul, and the work must be flawless. Riga’s creative quarters or nearby. For example, Run The main keeper of bicycling traditions and the team has grown from three to seven Rabbit Bicycle has set up house at VEF with a smaller retro aesthetic is Toms Ērenpreiss. The Vintage in number, while the workshop has Has learnt that hope is not be branch at Kalnciema Quarter, while Dutch Bike can Bicycle Club of Latvia he has set up brings riders taken over the entire building. relied on in technology. be found in the Quiet Centre and next to the VEF together with bikes that are over 30 years old, and territory, as well near the D-Fab exhibition space. organizes the local Tweed Run, a parade of old-school A cycling culture is developing, but this Toms is a peaceful warrior in the bicycles with matching clothes and accessories. Riga is a long evolutionary process and is still bicycle revolution, taking tradi- Those who prefer their bike to fit like a glove choose gained another colourful bicycle ride in 2011 – the far from the level of 1920s-1930s Riga, tions and the reputation of the fixed-gear bicycles. These young people in bright Bicycle Flower Parade organized by the Dutch Bike when the bicycle was the main means of Ērenpreiss name as his weapons. clothes and matching bikes find each other in specific store; another chance to draw attention to bicycle transportation, and the city had five large places in Riga: MiiT, Innocent Cafe, the Piens Velo culture and show some love to two-wheelers. I factories and over thirty workshops. »» erenpreiss.lv

The Bicycle Quarter 46 47 The Bicycle Quarter Could make a bike on skis — Artūrs Baiža City bicycle Clubs

stores Apokalipses jātnieki and Velozaurs Andrejostas iela 4, freakbike.lv, @Yaatnieki Dutch Bike Valkas iela 7, Brīvības iela 193d, Slokas iela 52d, Karters dutchbike.lv, @dutchbikelv Andrejostas iela 4a, karters.lv

Latvian Vintage Bicycle Club Parks latveloclub.lv

Volcomparks (VEF superpark) Brīvības gatve 214, VEF 5. korpuss, Events vefsuperparks.lv, @volcomparks Riga Bicycle Week Grīziņkalna skeitparks organized by Ērenpreiss velosipēdu darbnīca, J. Asara iela 24 Riga City Council, CSDD and others velonedela.lv, @velonedela, Monsterparks Kroņu iela 13a, @monsterparks organized by cyclists every Mayday

Freakbike parade Workshops, organized by Apokalipses jātnieki

restoration Tweed Run organized by Latvijas Veclaiku divriteņu klubs Ērenpreiss velosipēdu darbnīca workshop A. Čaka iela 90, erenpreiss.com, @darbnica Bicycle Flower Parade organized by Dutch Bike Cafe, bicycle store and workshop MiiT Lāčplēša iela 10, miit.lv, @miit_tiim

Piena velo darbnīca A. Briāna iela 9, piens.nu

Pilsētas velosipēdu darbnīca E. Smiļģa iela 11, @velodarbnica

Began by looking for an Admits that cycling Currently selling used Won’t sell skis during the industrial space rather mania has intensified in and restored bicycles, but winter; will work with than a traditional shop. Riga, so new ideas and doesn’t intend to stop bicycles instead. Could Wanted to be further concepts have to be born. there - they are already make a bike on skis. away from others and working with artists and have no problem with making other plans. holding parties.

The Bicycle Quarter 48 49 The Bicycle Quarter Riga’s urban environment has experienced great changes due to a return to the market tradition, which has reduced the influence of shopping centres. Alongside the large city market open daily, smaller markets and fairs are held, with the added value of carefully selected products and an entertainment programme. Some farmers’ markets have even had the audacity to steal clients from right under the noses of shopping centres. Food is not the only thing being sold – markets specializing in craftsmen’s wares, vintage clothing and home design items have also become extremely popular.

Kalnciema Quarter Market for consultations and advice on balanced Just like , Paris and Berlin, Riga Organized around themes and public food choices every Thursday up until also has its occasional vintage market, holidays, and accompanied by concerts September. Summer Thursdays from which transforms the Dirty Deal space and attractions, the market is held in 3 pm to 7 pm, Skolas iela 3, or the courtyard of the MiiT cycling the Kalnciema Quarter courtyard on »»arstubiedriba.lv cafe into a colourful emporium for the Thursday afternoons and holidays. day. The market is organized by the On such occasions, the usually quiet Countryside produce market by Spice RetroSpectro shop together with fashion Pārdaugava site comes to life, and the shopping centre journalist and blogger Agnese Kleina. market stalls are engulfed by a motley The scent of the fresh cows’ milk, oven- Dates to be announced, crowd of local residents and Rigans baked bread, forest blossom honey, »»retrospectro.wordpress.com travelling from distant parts of the city. smoked and cured meats and sausages is »»whimsicalagnesiga.com Dates to be announced, so tantalising that you might be forgiven »»kalnciemaiela.lv for not even making it into any shops. Andele Mandele pearl hunt Instead, linger outside, tasting and filling Andele Mandele is a market for real Dill, pearls, Bergs Bazaar farmers’ market your basket with goods from Latvian huntresses of fashion, who enjoy looking Already a Riga institution, this market farms. Fridays 4 pm–8 pm, Saturdays over each other’s wardrobes while on fills the Bergs Bazaar passages with Slow and Sundays 12 pm–4 pm, the prowl for a pearl of their own. The Food quality fare, craftsmen’s wares, Lielirbes iela 29, unoccupied premises of shopping centres eco-friendly children’s toys and natural »»spice.lv or clubs are chosen for these swapping, cosmetics. Snacks from the Vincents buying and selling events. restaurant prepared on the spot make Slow Food Organic Farmers’ Market Dates to be announced, @andelemandele the shopping experience even more at Sky & More shopping centre and salmon enjoyable. Second and fourth Saturday By launching its organic food market, VEF flea market of every month 10 pm – 3 pm, the Sky & More shopping centre has Until now, Riga was missing a proper »»bergabazars.lv joined the Slow Food movement. weekend flea market – a place for This means that origin of the produce students to find cheap household buys Night Market at Spīķeri available here has been tested, and it and for collectors to hunt for ancient The lowest fruit and vegetable prices in contains no harmful substances, is tasty treasures. Since this summer, however, a Riga draw traders and restaurant owners, and of a high quality. Fridays 12 pm – weekly trade has started up in the VEF but shopping in the dark of night is an 9 pm, Duntes iela 19a, quarter. The range of wares on offer sandwiches interesting experience for any Rigan. »»skyandmore.lv includes home design items and books, The open kotlete (meatball) and salmon stamp and postcard collections, sports sandwiches available in the cafe at the Mildas tirdziņš - Milda’s markett equipment, electronics and jewellery. corner of the Night Market make an The market pavilions grouped around Saturdays 10 am – 5 pm, by the VEF alternative midnight snack after a visit to a small courtyard on the crossing of arts centre, Ūnijas iela 8, — Markets Dirty Deal. Satekles, Elizabetes and E. Birznieka- »»retrospectro.wordpress.com Every day after 10 pm, Nēģu iela 7 Upīša are an alternative to the »»totaldobze.com supermarket – pleasanter in scale, and Latvian Doctors’ Association Green Market offering closer contact between the To educate city dwellers in the habits buyer and the seller. Over 30 Latvian of healthy eating, the Latvian Doctors’ food producers have found a place here. Association has opened its courtyard to E.Birznieka-Upīša iela 2, a farmers’ fruit and vegetable market, »»mildastirdzins.lv accompanied by a series of related events – Healthy Products for a Healthy Lifestyle. Nutrition experts are available Open Air Vintage festivālt Autori 50 51 Markets A single braid Every day of events at noon — The Virtual Quarter — Agnese Kleina, author of the Whimsical Agnesiga blog

As the city quarters grew, a set of popular internet sites developed over the same short period of time. The authors of these are enthusiasts working in creative fields and writing about what’s fresh in Filling the blog isn’t difficult, since Agnese’s lifestyle includes attending Latvian design, fashion, architecture and art. New many events, which fits in easily with her job as editor-in-chief of Deko magazine. blogs and websites are proof of the evolution of Riga’s Good material is divided up – cultural life – it turns out that there are many events, putting the "legs" in the blog and the "rump" in the magazine. places and people worthy of attention and description. Her readers have got used to regular Alongside sites with original content, there has also entries, with a new dose of information every day around noon, in a variety been a growth in the activity of the creative industry of sections – street fashion; her own outfits; reports from events; stories on social networks. While in 2009 only a handful on interesting people and places. of companies had profiles on Twitter, Facebook and She was quickly noticed by the local fashion community when a critical Draugiem, two years later event announcements comment in the blog earned her the status of persona non grata at the Riga through these media are the key source of information. Fashion Week shows in autumn 2010. They have the advantage of spreading news rapidly The readers of her blog have written that Agnese knows how to weave many and offering a direct link with the audience – different things into one beautiful braid. comments and questions can easily be added to every »»whimsicalagnesiga.com event, and there has been a significant decrease in the level of anonymity so characteristic of the internet. I

Virtual Quarter 52 53 Virtual Quarter Maybe attending Positive side effects — Artūrs Mednis, social media expert, Inspired Latvija — Sandijs Ruļuks, author of Designblog.lv

In Riga, social media are Local and regional studies Social media are not Although he writes a He asks interview In comparison with print used by a small but active indicate a gradual decline what makes a shop, bar blog on the best finds in subjects to take a picture media, a blog allows you group of users who want in the popularity of blogs, or quarter more popular, Latvian design, he spends of themselves at 17:17 to react to events more to have their voices heard. while the number of social they can only help. In most of his own time – a time of the working quickly, there are no Even if they only make media users is growing. the long term, the place in the Netherlands. His day when people are limitations to volume up a tenth of the total itself will show whether it absence has pushed him usually immersed in or topics, and finding users, it is thanks to these Event ads on Facebook only works or not. to develop a compact the creative process. older entries in the people that everyone else act as listings, since they interview format – 10 archive is much easier. finds out about new bars, can’t be used to predict »»inspired.lv questions, most often A positive side effect restaurants and creative attendance. I am attending answered in written form. of writing the blog is »»designblog.lv quarters. frequently means Maybe finding out about the attending. creative process that takes place before a piece of design is complete.

Virtual Quarter 54 55 Virtual Quarter DESIGN MUSIC

Anyone interested in graphic, interactive or product Trendy young things spotted and photographed A classic in the field of the intellectual exchange What is Riga listening to? Whatever the authors of design should take a look at designblog.lv, dedicated on the streets of Riga can be seen on the Ielu Mode of ideas is ¼ Satori, also present in Riga as a Cita Mūzika (Another Music) have recommended. to all that is good in Latvian design. The blog has blog, while the riders of attractive bicycles bookstore, cafe and coworking space in Bergs They claim that the border between regular a catalogue of links to Latvian designers’ portfolios are captured in the photos of Vello Fellow. Bazaar. ¼ Satori specializes in book reviews, a virtual music and exceptional music is not easy to draw, as well as news on competitions and events, but »»ielumode.lv, library of literature fragments, blogs by cultural and share their findings by writing on the blog most of its content is in the form of questions and »»vellofellow.blogspot.com figures and an environment of intense debate. and DJing at events and locations in Riga. answers. Its designblog.lv 10+10 interviews with »»satori.lv »»citamuzika.lv designers and architects, conversations with design Santa Bindemane writes about children’s fashion, school students and reader polls are a stirring force interior design and entertainment on her Kids Gazette An alternative selection of exhibitions, concerts Radio 101 has injected the urban environment with in the Latvian design environment, and help future blog. Together with artist Edīte Ķirse she has also and theatre performances is found on the Veto music by choosing a site for its live studio in the centre designers build up a stock of useful knowledge. created the Bloggers t-shirt collection, featuring images blog that complements the printed magazine and of Riga, on the ground floor at the corner of Brīvības »»designblog.lv of Latvian and foreign fashion bloggers. The first in reflects the interests of its creators and audience. and Elizabetes. Its large windows offer a chance to the series was a t-shirt showing Agnese Kleina. Every Friday, the Kustība pilsētā (Movement in the see the radio personalities at work, while they react on The Asketic graphic design office doesn’t just stand »»kids-gazette.blogspot.com City) section lists the coming weekend’s events. air to events going on outside. Radio 101 frequently out with the freshness of its work – it is also behind »»vetomagazine.wordpress.com relays information on events in the creative quarters. the Plikums initiative, a site of their own making »»radio101.lv that features the goings-on of the creative industries Ziemeļu stāsti (Northern Tales), the internet in Latvia. The site doesn’t have separate sections Architecture and magazine by the Nordic Council of Ministers’ If you’re interested in new indie and electronic for graphic design, advertising, photography and Office, acts as a guide to Scandinavian culture, genre musicians from the Baltic States, The art, making every item appear equally interesting. urban environment providing an introduction to the worldview Baltic Scene blog also has a lot to offer. A special part of the blog is the Plikums. Sarunas and lifestyle of our nearby neighbours. Another »»thebalticscene.tumblr.com series of video interviews, in which designers and Latvia’s architects love to debate over wine, in their resource for this is the Latvian-created Ziemeļu representatives of related professions talk about offices and on A4D – an interactive website for puse (Nordic Style) TV show, now available to their work, inspirations and the creative process. information and the exchange of opinions. A4D both Latvian and Lithuanian audiences. »»plikums.lv publishes news and analytical articles on architecture, »»ziemelustasti.lv Urban cuisine overviews of the newest projects (including images) The Design Information Centre works on integrating and annotations of books and magazines. You’ll also Anyone who seeks something more than well- Latvian design into local consciousness and the find out what events to attend if you’re interested trodden tourist trails on their travels is aware of international market by organising the Design. Future in contemporary architecture, and what architects Photography Another Travel Guide, which has not forgotten Riga festival and regularly publishing information themselves think about new buildings in Riga. and it treasures among more exotic destinations. on design competitions and exhibitions. »»a4d.lv The former Foto Kvartāls magazine moved onto a Easy to understand categories like Where to »»dic.lv digital version in early 2011, now focusing on the drink coffee, Trendy, and Best cakes help you Urban design is still a relatively unknown creative diversity of photography as an art medium. Almost quickly choose a spot perfect for your mood. field in Latvia, but two young urbanists – Evelīna all of Latvia’s active photographers and photography »»anothertravelguide.lv Ozola and Toms Kokins – have recently begun critics are involved in shaping the website; adding Fashion posting informational material, criticism and images, exhibition reviews, technical advice and Advice by a local often seems more trustworthy suggestions for the streets and quarters of Riga and stories on key figures and events in photography. than information aimed at tourists. Find it on Zane In her Whimsical Agnesiga blog, the first true home- other cities on their Fine Young Urbanists blog. »»fotokvartals.lv Bojāre’s Subjektīvs (Subjective) blog – written in grown fashionista Agnese Kleina talks about current »»fineyoungurbanists.tumblr.com Latvian and English on her experiences in Riga’s trends in fashion, gives readers a peek at the best- Find the portfolios of many Latvian cafes and restaurants, small shops and art spaces. dressed guests of various events and of course, photographers alongside the work of designers »»subjektivs.lv demonstrates her own particular sense of style. Agnese and artists on the Filtered project website, with is a great persuader of the diversity and quality Culture, literature, art a format conducive to wandering freely between What is the best place to dine in Riga? Where can you of Latvian fashion brands’ clothing, footwear and photography, graffiti, video and painting. buy food from local producers and how can you prepare jewellery: she wears them herself and provides news Arterritory writes about art and culture in Latvia »»filtered.lv a delicious meal yourself? Recipes, shop and restaurant of their success stories around the world. For the past and its neighbouring countries in Latvian, Russian reviews including an insight into menus and prices can two years, Agnese and the RetroSpectro shop team and English. Just like design blogs, Arterritory also be found on the Četras sezonas (Four seasons) website. have been organizing the Open Air Vintage festival, goes beyond the territory of art by looking at news »»cetrassezonas.lv choosing Riga’s creative quarters as a location. Anita in fashion, photography, architecture and film. An Comics Sedliņa or Anii creates her own pieces of clothing and experienced group of authors under the leadership focuses on Latvian fashion, reporting from shows, of Anna Iltnere is behind Arterritory, meaning there (ku)š!, Latvia’s only magazine devoted to comics culture presentations and trips. Agnese and Anita don’t see is a wealth of artist interviews and articles on art is small but powerful, and regular. It publishes the each other as competition, posting friendly footnotes processes, as well as a large catalogue of artists, galleries freshest and brightest drawings by local and foreign to what the other has written instead. If you open and museums. Also including art centres in other artists, and each issue is devoted to a specific theme. one of the blogs, it won’t be long before you find European, Russian and U.S. cities alongside Riga, the (ku)š! is for sale in numerous stores within Riga’s yourself having passed seamlessly to the other. calendar of exhibitions and events is especially useful. creative quarters and can also be found on the internet. »»whimsicalagnesiga.com, »»arterritory.com »»komikss.lv »»retrospectro.wordpress.com »»anii.lv

The Virtual Quarter 56 57 The Virtual Quarter Educated, has an allotment garden — Quarters of the future

RISEBA + RTU Upīša Arcade Tabakas Fabrika – includes plans for a neighbourhood information centre, wooden architecture The development plans of the two Like Bergs Bazaar’s untapped appendix Tobacco Factory preservation activities, as well as a universities sitting on opposite banks and spatial opposite, the other side of repository of restoration reference of the Zunda canal are a mark of the Marijas iela hides another system of Miera iela has long been known as a material, and an exhibition space. If potential of a quarter fitting the campus connected courtyards – Upīša Arcade. success story of bottom-up development, the Koka Rīga centre manages to or university town model. The former Here, the buildings surrounding the but now another point of synergy draw similar neighbours to the area, industrial complex between Daugavgrīvas block are higher and the topology of between the creative industries is Grīziņkalns has the chance to become iela and the Zunda canal now houses the the open spaces more uniform than planned for its more undeveloped end. a quarter filled with new social currents Architecture and Media Centre of the in the quarter across the street. Upīša If the vision of the Ministry of Culture within the next few years. Large-scale Riga International School of Economics Arcade has experienced the presence of transpires into reality, the next few improvements are also planned for the and Business Administration (RISEBA); artists every so often during the Survival years should see the industrial premises neighbourhood’s streets and parks. . an indication of the institution’s Kit contemporary art festival, but its of Tabakas fabrika transform into an Mūrnieku iela, rigasaustrumi.lv expansion. On the other side of the canal, everyday content is symbolized by a epicentre of diverse cultural, creative Koka Rīga, Krāsotāju iela 12, work is already underway on the Riga cluster of musical instrument shops and and entrepreneurship processes on kokariga.lv Technical University (RTU) RTU – A a cosy cafe. As in the Bergs Bazaar, the a city-wide and even regional scale. City within the City project, envisaging top storeys of the buildings contain flats, Meanwhile, the vast premises of the the creation of an engineering studies so the future development potential of former tobacco factory are not standing centre on a Baltic scale. Although these the quarter veers towards the cultural completely empty, being taken over now Allotment are two independent visions developing rather than entertainment. The new and then for series of events – the Skaņu side by side, the materialisation of both Palladium concert hall (housed in an ex- Mežs experimental music festival or the gardens could create a new hotspot of education, cinema) is also scheduled to be opened International Festival of Contemporary culture and innovation – and a new in close proximity to Upīša Arcade and Theatre Homo Novus. The local product and urban farming pedestrian bridge crossing the canal is Bergs Bazaar. Tabakas fabrika, Miera iela 58, km.gov.lv trends running wild in the large cities also said to be in the works. Upīša Arcade, Marijas iela 16 of the world have yet to penetrate RISEBA Creative Quarter. Palladium Rīga, Marijas iela 21, Riga’s most absorbent minds, so we Ūdens iela 6, riseba.lv palladium.lv can only speculate on a growing use RTU A City within the City. Grīziņkalns of allotments. However, challenging The ability to solve Āzenes iela 18, pilseta.rtu.lv the stereotype of senior citizens as the You don’t yet need a time machine only target audience, a new interest in Kaņepe Culture to travel to a Riga untouched by gardening and a desire to rent a vacant problems development plans – the untamed vegetable garden from the city can be The National Centre urban environment of the Grīziņkalns observed among the young middle- — Oskars Redbergs, Director of th RISEBA neighbourhood holds the remains of class generation. A critical mass that Library of Latvia Opened as the centre of the 2011 Homo industrial buildings of the last century would mark a real allotment cultivation Architecture Programme Novus festival, this poetic property with standing alongside examples of historical craze has not yet been reached, but the When the construction of the National a garden in the historical centre of Riga wooden architecture. Liberated from development of the bicycle path network Library of Latvia reaches its conclusion, puts a new point of creativity on the the private property craze of the central and search for alternative lifestyles may The Riga International Considers the creation of Is convinced that the creative quarters won’t be the only map and strengthens links between the quarters, courtyards here are usually lead to the appearance of a new typology School of Economics and new study programmes architects have the places to find the combined functions Quiet Centre and Baznīcas iela. The open and can be walked through - often of quarter in Riga’s most interesting Business Administration to be inevitable, since advantage of being able of culture, reference and art. Alongside intention is to respectfully restore the connecting parallel streets. An openness neighbourhoods. (RISEBA) is running young people are to solve problems in a reading rooms and book collections, former residential and music school and freedom can also be felt amongst Allotment rent office, a new undergraduate increasingly choosing studio format – in a group the plan of the Castle of Light also building, transforming it into a concert local residents – just like contemporary Daugavpils iela 31, 418. kab., programme in the creative industries. of very diverse people. includes exhibition, seminar, conference hall, restaurant and meeting place. architecture, restrictions in drinking in rigasaustrumi.lv architecture that has and activity spaces. Together with Kaņepe Culture Centre, Skolas iela 15, public places have not yet reached the already enrolled 36 The aim of RISEBA is not The building is jointly the planned University of Latvia @KanepesKC blocks of Grīziņkalns. students from various to outdo Riga Technical used by students of student town in Torņakalns and the countries in its first year. University, but rather audiovisual media art expansive ambitions of RTU and Mūrnieka iela, tidied up several years ago, the normalization of and architecture. This is RISEBA, there are clear indications is not the only evidence of the quarter’s The faculty plans to the study programmes expected to encourage that the left bank of the Daugava is potential; the Koka Rīga (Wooden hold public lectures at currently on offer. a creative synergy; facing an explosion of educational Riga) wooden architecture centre on least once a month. using each other’s and scientific activity in its future. the corner of Lienes and Krāsotāja is to talents and skills. The National Library of Latvia, form the new core of the social life and Mūkusalas iela 3, lnb.lv regeneration of Grīziņkalns. The project »»riseba.lv

Quarters of the future 58 59 Quarters of the future