OLD WORLD FOODS FOR NEW WORLD FAMILIES

A H a n d b o o k

PREPARED BY

L e l ia M . M cG u ir e , M . S. M e r r il l -P a l m e r S c h o o l

P u blish ed by the S chool 71 F erry A v e n u e , E ast D etro it, M ich igan The Questing Cook. A bundle of good recipes from foreign kitchens. By R uth A. Jeremiah G ottfried. Cambridge: Washburn & Thomas, 1927, pp. 380. $3.00. One hundred and twenty-eight recipes, “the booty that one casual adventurer in foreign kitchens found practical to bring home and too tempting to leave behind;” mostly bourgeois delicacies in family quanti­ ties, from half a dozen European countries, with a section from the Near and Far East. The index is conveniently arranged in tripli­ cate—alphabetical, by the place of the dish in the usual courses, and by its chief ingredi­ ents. / y \ i r From Ewing Galloway, N. Y.

T h e B eauty of t h e I m m em orial T ask

WOMEN OF A FARM VILLAGE IN SARDINIA BAKING PASTRY AT A PRIMITIVE OVEN OLD WORLD FOODS FOR NEW WORLD FAMILIES

A H a n d b o o k

PREPARED BY

L e l ia M . M cG u ir e , M . S. M e r r il l -P a l m e r S chool

P u b lish e d by the S chool 71 F erry A v e n u e , E ast D etroit, M ich igan E dited by D orothy T yler

C o p y rig h t 1931 By the M errill-Palmer Motherhood and Home Training School

JSorfc @afttmore (press BALTIMORE, MD., U. S. A. FOREWORD Since the beginning of its work the Merrill-Palmer School has been interested in the women of foreign birth resident in Detroit, and in their home problems. One of the many adjustments these women are called upon to make in their new surroundings relates to food selection and preparation, and this problem they have often discussed with us. We soon realized that this was a channel through which they could offer a service to their adopted country in suggesting variations in the American dietary. This handbook is the result of that realization. We are most grateful to the many women who have contributed to this compilation. We offer it to the public in the hope that it will be found both useful and interesting. Since 1924 the Merrill-Palmer staff has included an instructor, Miss Lelia McGuire, whose special function has been to consider the home problems of the foreign-bom woman in our community. It is through her interest and understanding and her untiring energy and enthusiasm that these women have been able to offer their contribution to other American homes. E d na N oble W h it e D irector, M errill-P almer S chool

iii

CONTENTS PAGE Introduction ...... 1 Armenia ...... 3 Bulgaria ...... 11 Croatia...... 14 En g l a n d ...... 18 Finland ...... 23 Greece ...... 29 Hu n g a r y ...... 33 Italy ...... 41 Mexico ...... 47 Roumania ...... 51 Russia ...... 56 Sy r ia ...... 63 A S e le c te d L is t of* R e f e r e n c e s ...... 68 Index ...... 73

Y INTRODUCTION

The material in this handbook is the result of a program with foreign-born women begun at the Merrill-Palmer School in 1925. Working with various community agencies in Detroit, the School has attempted to give Detroit women of foreign birth or foreign- born parentage, through an exchange of ideas, a better insight into the problem of adjusting their food habits to the American situa­ tion. A knowledge of the dietary habits of different peoples is of course essential to the person who wishes to be of help to women of other countries in these matters. This knowledge the author, who is in charge of the work at the School, has attempted to gain by inviting women of many different nationalities to come to the School to prepare and discuss meals characteristic of their countries. The information concerning the food materials, menus, and recipes of these nationalities thus secured is presented in this hand­ book in the belief that it will be useful to many teachers of nu­ trition, nurses, dietitians, visiting housekeepers, and others who work with people from other countries. The author believes that many of these dishes could profitably be added to our American dietary, giving it greater variety. It is interesting to note that many of these peoples prepare foods ac­ cording to methods now recommended by food authorities. Meats, for example, are usually broiled or roasted, and vegetables are baked or cooked with little or no water. It is believed that many of the nationalities whose food habits are discussed in the handbook are those concerning whom little infor­ mation of this kind has been available. However, it has not been possible to include sections on the foods of the people of all the many nationalities living in Detroit. Though all the recipes in­ cluded have been tested, it is probable that any method of secur­ ing material of this kind is subject to error, and the author re­ grets any inaccuracies. It should be noted also that, in general, all Central European people have similar methods of preparing food, and, further, that Southern European people have been influenced in their dietary habits by the people from the Near East; so that 1 2 Old World Foods for New World Families it is impossible to say that any one dish originated with or is used exclusively by any one group. The International Institute of Detroit has cooperated through­ out the course of the study in bringing the author into touch with women of various nationalities, and in allowing their workers of foreign nationalities to assist in collecting material for the hand­ book. Members of the Cosmopolitan Women’s Club have given indispensable assistance in preparing many of the dishes and sup­ plying much of the information included. Women of the particular nationalities represented have written the introductions to the vari­ ous sections of the handbook; their names are given and their assistance is acknowledged at the proper places in the text. ARM ENIA *

The valleys and plateaus of Asia Minor are very fertile, and accordingly fine-flavored vegetables of every description, and often of unusual size, are found in abundance. From early times an im­ portant occupation of the people has been the grazing of sheep, and it is natural, therefore, to find the diet of the people in this region—especially those in the towns and villages of the interior— composed principally of vegetables prepared with lamb. Such vegetables as tomatoes, peppers, squash, and cucumbers are stuffed with chopped lamb, flavored with onion and herbs; they are also cooked as a stew with lamb. Eggplant is prepared in a dozen or more different ways. Many herbs, such as mint and parsley, are native to the soil and are used as flavoring. Rice, cooked with meat stock or butter, forms a staple food. Wheat, called bourlgour, is also used. Fruit, uncooked or stewed, forms a large part of the daily diet. Milk is used freely, and in the form of matzoon f (fer­ mented milk) is a part of the daily diet. People living on the sea- coast use a great deal of olive oil, and those in the interior a great deal of cut beef fat.

T ypical F ood M aterials Meats—chicken, lamb. Vegetables—artichokes, cabbage, cucumbers, dried beans, eggplant, endive, grape leaves, green peppers, leeks, lettuce, okra, onions, squash, string beans, tomatoes. Fruits—apricots, red and black cherries, dates, figs, grapes, mulberries, muskmelon, pears, plums, quinces, ripe olives, watermelon. Fats—olive oil, cut beef fat, butter. Cereals—wheat (bourlgour), rice.

* For this introduction the author is indebted to Elise Russian, f “ Matzoon is a fermented milk in which two kinds of fermentation are prominent. One is lactic acid and the other caused by the growth of yeast. It is of course wild yeast, and not a cultivated pure strain. Matzoon contains both lactic acid and alcohol, the yeast forming alcohol.” Journal of Home Economics, February, 1921, page 87. 3 4 Old World Foods jor New World Families

Nuts—almonds, filberts, pine nuts, pistachio nuts, pump­ kin seeds, walnuts. Milk—cow’s and goat’s. Cheese.

M ethods of P reparation Meat—broiled on skewers (shish); roasted; first browned, then cooked with vegetables. Vegetables—cooked with meat; cooked with fat or olive oil (served cold when cooked with olive oil). Cereals—rice cooked in meat broth; bourlgour cooked in meat broth. Fruits—some fruits are preserved in a heavy sugar solution. Fats—used in cooking; bread is dipped in the liquid in which meat and vegetables are cooked, instead of being buttered. It is a sign of friendship to dip one’s bread in another’s plate*

C haracteristic D is h e s f SOUPS Matzoon Soup. Soup with matzoon, with mint and onions.

MEAT DISHES Avdji Kebab. Roast lamb with matzoon sauce. Bash Froon. Baked lamb’s head. Boughoidama. Lamb steamed with vegetables. Chewp Kebab. Fried eggplant and lamb grilled on skewers. Ekshili Tavouk. Chicken stewed with onions, egg sauce. Enguinar Otourtma. Artichokes stuffed with chopped meat. Hunkiar Beyendi. Mushed eggplant and potted lamb. Izmir Keojteh. Chopped meat cooked in oven with to­ mato sauce.

* Mark 14:20. t This list was furnished to the author by the Armenian Restaurant at 129 East 27th Street, New York City. Armenia 5

Kaden Boudou. Chopped meat and rice fried in eggs. Kapama. Lamb cooked with vegetables. Kami Yarik. Eggplant stuffed with chopped meat. Kavourma. Braised lamb with onions. Kehab Kebab. Lamb roasted in parchment paper. Kizartma. Lamb roasted with tomatoes. Maydanossli Keoftsh. Broiled meat balls with egg sauce. Mousakka. Baked eggplant and chopped meat. Orman Kebab. Lamb broiled hunter style. Patlidjan Silkmen. Eggplant and braised lamb. Shish Kebab. Lamb grilled on skewers. Toss Kebab. Lamb cut in small pieces and roasted in pot, tomato sauce. Tavouk Dolma. Chicken stuffed with rice. Toheumlek Kebab. Braised lamb with tomato sauce.

OLIVE OIL DISHES Beans Yahni. Beans with fried onions cooked in olive oil. Beans Plaki. Beans stewed with vegetables and cooked in olive oil. Lahana Sarma. Chopped meat and onions wrapped in cabbage leaves and cooked in olive oil. Midia Dolma. Mussels stuffed with rice, cooked in olive oil. Midia Tava. Fried mussels with nut sauce. Pakla. Lima beans stewed in olive oil. Patlidjan Dolma. Eggplant stuffed with rice and onions, cooked in olive oil. Yaprak Sarma. Rice and onions with olive oil, wrapped in grape leaves.

VEGETABLES Dolma Kabak. Squash stuffed with chopped meat and rice. Kabak Mousakka. Baked squash with chopped meat. Keshguek. Wheat beaten with beef, lamb, and chicken, cooked in broth. Lahana Kapouska. Stewed cabbage. Macaroni Saltzali. Macaroni with tomato sauce. 6 Old World Foods jor New World Families

Nohoud Tapick. Mushed chick peas, stuffed with onions, pine nuts, currants, and spices. Pakla Basdi. Lima beans stewed in lamb broth. Tomatoes Otourtma. Tomatoes stuffed with chopped meat and onions.

FISH Baluk Plaki. Fish stewed with vegetables and olive oil. Baluk Yahni. Fish stewed with braised onions. Ousgourmi Dolma. Mackerel stuffed with onions, pis­ tachio nuts, and currants, fried in olive oil and served cold.

BEUREKS (Armenian plate) Beurek. Armenian plate with cheese, onions, meat, or plain.

PASTRIES AND DESSERTS Ekmek Kadayiff. Armenian bread cake cooked in syrup, Kaimak on top. Fishne Tiriti. Oriental cherries on toast. Irmik Helva. Farina, butter, milk, and sugar. Kadayiff. Shredded wheat (Armenian style) cooked with butter in oven, syrup on top. Kaimak. Armenian heavy cream in rolls. Lokma. Armenian crullers with syrup. Mahallebi. Rice flour pudding. Matzoon. Milk heated and congealed. Paklava. Armenian pastry with layer of walnuts and syrup. Sarai Bourma. Twisted crullers with nuts and syrup. Tavouk Geuksi. Mushed breast of chicken, cooked with cream, sugar, and rose water. Trigona. Armenian pastry with nuts, eggs, butter, and milk, syrup on top. Tvlumba Tatli. Flour, eggs, and milk, made in dough, molded, and cooked in butter, syrup on top. Armenia 7

M e n u s

BREAKFAST Dashtadeker (toasted cheese) Jelly or honey Milk Soft cooked egg Armenian wheat bread or Coffee with milk Comb honey and bread Grapes or watermelon Green or black olives

DINNER Dolma Pilaf with matzoon Yahni Pastry with cheese Turkish coffee

SUPPER Pilaf with vegetables (dourly) and matzoon Tomato salad or various kinds of pickles Bread Fresh fruit: in winter, oranges, apples, or preserved fruit Pastries (used on holidays or when guests are present)

R ecip es

d o l m a Green peppers Rice or Salt and pepper Fresh tomatoes Lamb chopped in small or pieces Cucumbers Parsley 8 Old World Foods jor New World Families

Take the seeds out of the peppers or the inside portion out of tomatoes or cucumbers. Mix the meat, rice, tomato centers, and seasonings together. Stuff the peppers, tomatoes, or cucumbers with the mixture. Place in a kettle and barely cover with water. Cook slowly, covered, for one hour.

KABOURGHA Stuff a shoulder of lamb with a mixture of meat and rice. Cook in water until tender.

KARNI YARIK Brown six slices of leg of lamb in fat. Slice a medium-sized eggplant in one-inch slices, then cut the slices partially in two, making a pocket, and place the meat in the pockets. Season, place in a baking dish, and add one can of whole tomatoes or six peeled fresh tomatoes. Bake two hours.

SARMA 2 pounds ground meat 1 onion chopped fine 1 cupful raw rice 6 fresh tomatoes or 1 small can tomatoes Mix all of the ingredients thoroughly and season with salt and pepper. Place a small amount of the mixture on a grape leaf and make into a roll, and continue until the mixture is all used. In a kettle in which a few meat bones have been placed, place the rolls I in layers. Cover with water or meat stock, holding the sarma in place with a lid or plate. Boil at least an hour.

MEAT AND POTATO BALLS 1 pound ground lamb or beef 1 cupful mashed potatoes 2 finely chopped onions, 1 egg browned in fat Salt and pepper Mix the ingredients together and make into balls. Place in a pan with a small piece of butter on each ball and put in the broiler under fire. When the tops are brown turn the balls and brown the other side. Armenia 9

PATLIJAN SILKMEH (Eggplant and broiled lamb) Brown one pound of ground lamb in fat. Add one cupful of chopped onion, one cupful of tomatoes or six fresh tomatoes cut in cubes, and season with salt and pepper and a little spice. Cut eggplant into one-fourth-inch slices and brown in fat. Place a layer of eggplant and then a layer of meat mixture in a baking dish, alternating until the dish is filled. Add a little water and bake one hour in a slow oven.

KESHKEG Cook a chicken in water until tender. Remove the meat from the bones and cut it into small pieces. Add to it one pound of gorgot (wheat kernels) and cover with hot water, seasoning with salt and pepper. Cook slowly for three or four hours, beating the mixture occasionally. Sprinkle with kimion (which may be pur­ chased at an Armenian store) and serve hot with butter. Lamb or beef may be used instead of chicken.

YAHNI Wash and trim green beans and place in a kettle. Add a very small amount of water, cover closely, and steam ten or fifteen minutes. Add one sliced onion and a can of tomatoes or two or three fresh ones. Season with olive oil, salt, and pepper. Add a few pieces of cooked lamb, if desired, cover, and cook slowly for one hour.

PILAF \ cupful beef fat 1 cupful tomato \ cupful vermicelli 1 cupful rice 1 quart beef broth Brown vermicelli in the fat, add broth and rice, and cook slowly for at least one hour. Add the tomato. Cracked wheat is some­ times used instead of rice. Serve with matzoon (a fermented sweet milk) which i§ made as follows: Bring one quart of whole milk to the scalding point, pour into an earthen dish, and let stand until lukewarm. Add carefully a small amount of old matzoon, cover, and let stand in a warm place until solid. 10 Old World Foods for New World Families

BOURLGOUR PILAF 1 small onion 2 teaspoonfuls salt i pound lamb \ teaspoonful pepper 1 cupful bourlgour 3 tablespoonfuls melted butter 3 cupfuls water Cut the meat into cubes and boil in a saucepan with water and salt until nearly done. Add the bourlgour (cleaning it first) and cook thirty to forty minutes in a covered saucepan; do not allow the stock to become reduced to less than two and one-half cupfuls. Brown the onion, finely chopped, in the butter, and pour over the bourlgour. Set aside for fifteen minutes to settle.

PASTRY WITH CHEESE 2 cupfuls flour 2 tablespoonfuls lard 1 tablespoonful butter Cut lard through flour and add sufficient water to make a soft pastry dough. Roll out to one-half-inch thickness. Spread with melted fat, fold, and roll thin, repeating the process until all the fat is added. Line a pie pan with the pastry and fill with slices of cream cheese, chopped parsley, and two slightly beaten eggs. Cover the top with strips of cut pastry, brush the crust with melted fat, and bake in a moderate oven.

SARAI BOURMA Mix together three cupfuls of flour, three eggs, and one table- spoonful of melted butter. Let stand one-half hour, then make into a long roll. Cut off pieces about the size of an egg and roll each piece into a thin layer. Spread with sugar, cinnamon, and chopped nuts if desired. Fold once, then roll on a stick. Push off the stick (this makes creases in the dough), place in a baking pan, and bake one-half hour. While hot, pour over the pastry a syrup made of one cupful of water and two cupfuls of sugar. BULGARIA *

Bulgaria was for five centuries under the Turkish yoke and so has more or less accepted the Oriental way of cooking. The Bul­ garian housewife spends much of her time in the kitchen. The people eat many vegetables and even the meats are usually cooked with vegetables. It is a farming country and the Bulgarians are known as excellent gardeners. The village population live chiefly on vegetables and the widely known Kiselo Mleko (Bulgarian sour milk), which they serve three times a day.

T ypical F ood M aterials Meats—beef, chicken and other fowl, fish, lamb, pork. Vegetables—beans, beets, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, celeraic, eggplant, garlic, green peppers, leeks, lentils, lettuce, mint, okra, onions, parsley, peas, potatoes, radishes. Fruits—apples fresh and dried, apricots fresh and dried, blackberries, blueberries, gooseberries, grapes, logan­ berries, mulberries, muskmelon, peaches fresh and dried, pears, plums, quinces, raisins, raspberries, red- berries, red currants, strawberries, watermelon. Fats—butter, lard, olive oil, pork. Cereals—cornstarch, farina, rice, wheat. Nuts—almonds, chestnuts, English walnuts, hazel nuts.

M ethods of P reparation Meats—roasted; chicken is cooked in many ways, often with rice, sauerkraut, or vegetables. Vegetables—baked, boiled. Fruits—served fresh, cooked, or dried. Fats—used in cooking and in salads. Cereals—boiled.

* For this introduction the author is indebted to Fidanka Babajoff. 2 11 12 Old World Foods for New World Families

M e n u s BREAKFAST Coffee with milk, or Turkish coffee Cheese Whole wheat bread or Eggs or sausage

DINNER Soup Giovetch ous (meat with rice) or Toorli Giovetch Salad (lettuce, tomato, cucumber, onion, salad oil) Fruit in season Bread Sotliash (rice pudding) if Toorli Giovetch is served Turkish coffee

SUPPER Pork or lamb with hourlgour (cracked wheat) Sauerkraut with olive oil, or green pep­ pers with olive oil

R ecipes

CHORBAS KEOFTETA (Meat ball soup) Chop fine one onion and brown in butter. Add about one quart of water and boil for one-half hour. Add very small balls made of seasoned ground round steak and two tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, rolled in flour. Season the soup with salt and pepper and cook for one-half hour. Just before serving add one cupful of the soup to two beaten eggs and the juice of one lemon. Add this mixture to the soup gradually, taking care that the soup is not hot enough to coagulate the egg. Serve at once. Bulgaria 13

TOORLI GIOVETCH (Baked vegetables with lamb) Brown three sliced onions. Add one pound of lamb cut in cubes and two green peppers cut in small pieces. Season with salt and paprika. Bake until tender. Add whole pared potato and one cupful each of canned or fresh string beans, peas, and tomatoes. If fresh vegetables are added bake for half an hour longer.

SLADKA EAHNIA (Chicken with prunes) Sear four chopped onions in butter and season with salt and pepper. Add one chicken which has been prepared for stewing. Cover with water and cook. When partially cooked add one-half pound of prunes which have been soaked. Rabbit may be prepared in the same way.

HAIVER SIN PATLADJAN (Eggplant caviar) Broil eggplant fifteen to twenty minutes over a flame or in a broiler. Take out the inside pulp and mix with it one clove, one peeled green onion, and garlic, finely pounded or minced together. Add a ripe tomato, peeled and chopped, and season with salt, vinegar, and olive oil.

SALADA PRAZ Chop very fine one leek and add to it one boiled green pepper, peeled and pounded fine. Season with paprika, salt, vinegar, and olive oil. Mashed black or ripe olives may also be added. Serve as a relish or salad.

RACHEL Peel squash or pumpkin and cut into pieces one inch square. Soak in lime water about two hours, then wash in cold water several times. Drop the pieces into a heavy syrup made of three cupfuls of sugar and one cupful of water, or cook in light Karo syrup. Boil slowly until clear, or from forty-five minutes to one hour. CROATIA * The Croatian people as a rule serve five meals a day. Strong coffee with boiled milk and rolls are served for breakfast early in the morning. A second breakfast, consisting of a small steak, boiled fish, eggs, or liver, with bread and butter, is served at ten o’clock. For dinner, soup, boiled, roasted, or fried beef, salad, and cooked vegetables are served; these are usually followed by fruit and black coffee. The afternoon lunch consists of coffee and bread and butter or fruits and cakes. The evening meal may consist of boiled or broiled fish, pork or veal, macaroni, rice or potatoes, and other vegetables. Vegetable salads are preferred. Potatoes are served only two or three times a week. Besides coffee, light wines are served as beverages. The meals described are those of the middle class. The dietary of the peasants, owing to their low wages, is largely vegetarian. Polenta, corn meal served as mush, is used as a breakfast cereal. It is served with butter and cheese, buttermilk, or fish. The peasants serve sweets, such as pastry or cake, only once or twice a week.

T ypical F ood M aterials Meats—beef, chicken, pork, veal. Vegetables—cabbage, carrots, celery, endive, lettuce, onions, parsley, potatoes, rutabagas, spinach, turnips. Fruits—apples, cherries, lemons, oranges, peaches, pears, quinces in jams and jellies. Fats—butter, lard for cooking, oils for salads. Nuts—English walnuts, filberts, green almonds. Cereals—corn meal, farina, rice. Milk—cow’s milk. Cheese—various kinds made of goat’s, ewe’s, or cow’s milk. M etho ds of P reparation Meats—roasted. Vegetables—boiled. * For this introduction the author is indebted to Katie Kassube. 14 Croatia 15

M e n u s BREAKFAST Corn meal mush with milk and butter Coffee with milk

DINNER Roast chicken with browned potatoes Sarma Lettuce with oil dressing Pita with fruit sauce

D in n e r Chicken soup Breaded spring chicken Beets, lettuce, cabbage, or potato salad Strudel or lemon koh or walnut cake, or Cookies with canned fruit

R ecipes GOVEDSKA JUHA (Beef noodle soup) Cover a beef soup bone with water. Add a few carrots, pieces of celery, parsley, one parsnip, one tomato, and one whole onion in which slashes have been made. Cook slowly for three hours. Strain, add noodles, and serve.

CHICKEN SOUP Cook slowly in water for almost one and one-half hours the wings, neck, and liver of a chicken. Add one onion, four medium­ sized carrots chopped fine, three peeled potatoes cut into thin slices, a few sprigs of parsley, and a few stalks of celery chopped very fine. One can of peas or two cupfuls of fresh peas may be added. Season with salt and pepper and continue cooking for about one-half hour. Add one tablespoonful of flour to one table­ spoonful of melted fat in which one small chopped onion has been browned, and mix with the soup. Just before serving add one cupful of sour cream. 16 Old World Foods for New World Families

ROAST VEAL Wash breast of veal in water. Cut deep into the meat with a knife and stuff with a mixture of bacon cut in small pieces, chopped onions, and the juice of one lemon. Place the veal in a pan, pour hot lard over it, and roast until brown, basting occasionally with lard and water. Serve with lettuce seasoned with salt, pepper, oil, and vinegar. CROATIAN SARMA To three-fourths of a pound of ground beef and one-fourth of a pound of ground ham add one medium-sized onion, chopped, and season with salt and pepper. Roll part of the meat mixture in large cabbage leaves wilted by dipping in boiling water, and roll the rest in sauerkraut leaves. Place alternate layers of the cabbage and sauerkraut rolls in a kettle * Cover with a plate or lid smaller than the kettle and cover with water. Cook slowly for one hour.

PILECI GULAS SA KISELIM NRHNEM (Chicken with sour cream) Cook six sliced onions and four tablespoonfuls of lard until the onions are clear. Add one or two tablespoonfuls of paprika and pieces of raw chicken and cook slowly until the chicken is tender. Just before serving cover with a cupful of sour cream.

FILANA PAPRIKA (Stuffed peppers) Stuff sweet green peppers with a mixture made of one-half pound of ground beef and one-half pound of ground pork, or one- half pound of ground two cupfuls of uncooked rice, and one egg well beaten. Place in a baking dish and cover with tomatoes, fresh or canned. Bake at least one hour.

DINSTANI KUPUS (Cabbage and tomatoes) Brown slightly in one tablespoonful of lard one large sliced onion and one medium-sized head of cabbage chopped fine. Season with

* The Croatians use the whole head of cabbage in making kraut; the outside leaves are used to roll meat in. Croatia 17 salt and pepper and one teaspoonful of paprika. Add a quart can of tomatoes and continue cooking for fifteen minutes.

ZELENI ORB AS SA KISELIM NRHNEM (Green beans with sour cream) To four tablespoonfuls of oil in a baking dish add two pounds of string beans and season with salt and pepper. Pour two cupfuls of sour cream over the beans, cover with crumbs, and bake one- half hour if cooked beans are used, longer if the beans are fresh.

MEDO SAFE Cream one and one-half cupfuls of butter and one cupful of sugar. Add two well-beaten eggs, two cupfuls of flour, the juice and grated rind of one lemon, and three-fourths of a pound of ground almonds. Pour in a buttered angel food cake pan and bake in a slow oven for about one hour. Fill the center with strawberries and whipped cream. PITA Make a pastry dough of four cupfuls of flour, one cupful of sugar, four beaten egg yolks, and about one cupful of water. Line a baking pan with half of the pastry, fill with sliced apples and chopped nuts seasoned with cinnamon and sugar, cover with the rest of the pastry, and bake about one-half hour.

OD VOCA (Fruit sauce) Mix thoroughly one cupful of sugar and three beaten egg yolks. Add the juice of one lemon and one orange and cook until thick.

GRIS KOH (Cream of Wheat or farina pudding) Cook one cupful of Cream of Wheat or farina in three cupfuls of milk until thick. Add one-half cupful of sugar, four beaten egg yolks, one-half teaspoonful of vanilla and one-half teaspoonful of lemon juice, one-half cupful of white seedless raisins, and three medium-sized apples sliced. Fold in the four egg whites beaten stiff, pour into a buttered pan, and bake in a slow oven for thirty to forty-five minutes. Serve with whipped cream. ENGLAND *

England is largely industrial and imports about two-thirds of her foodstuffs. Near the suburbs of the large cities are found large tracts of land which are rented out in parcels of about one-third of an acre. Here vegetables and small currant bushes are grown, and in many cases tomatoes are grown and seeds developed in small hothouses built on these tracts. Beef, lamb, and mutton are the meats most frequently served. Pork and veal are served in the winter. Rabbits, hares, and grouse are served in season, from September to April, and poultry is served at holiday times. Fish plays an important part in the diet of the people. The women in the midlands and north of England do most of the family baking, baking bread, cakes, and pies twice a week. Fresh vegetables and fruit are served in season and jams and marmalades are made and vegetables dried or pickled at this time for winter use. Though plums and cherries are sometimes canned in the country, fruits are usually dried rather than canned.

T ypical F ood M aterials Meats—beef, bacon, chicken, duck, goose, grouse, ham, hare, kidney, lamb, liver, mutton, partridge, pheasant, pork, rabbit, tripe, turkey, veal. Vegetables—asparagus, artichokes (globe and Jerusalem), beans (French and kidney), broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage, cauliflower, celery, haricots dried, kale, leeks, lentils dried, lettuce, onions, parsnips, peas fresh and dried, potatoes, radishes, spinach, turnips, vegetable marrows. Fruits—apples, apricots dried, bananas, bilberries, black­ berries, currants, dates, figs, gooseberries, lemons, loganberries, melons, oranges, pears, pineapple, plums, raisins, raspberries, rhubarb, strawberries.

* For this introduction the author is indebted to Clara I. Naysmith. 18 England 19

Fats—beef suet, butter, margarine, mutton suet, pork suet. Cereals—oatmeal. Nuts. Milk—cow’s milk. Cheese—Abilton, Cheddar, Cheshire, Wensleydale.

M e t h o d s o f P r e p a r a t io n Meats—roasted, baked, boiled, fried, potted, braised. Vegetables—boiled, steamed, baked. Cereals—boiled. Fish—fried, boiled, baked, broiled.

C haracteristic D i s h e s Beefsteak and kidney pie Yorkshire pudding

M e n u s

b r e a k f a s t * Poached egg and fried bacon Porridge Toast, butter, marmalade Tea or Cold boiled ham Brown and white bread Butter, marmalade Tea

DINNER Beefsteak and kidney pie Boiled potatoes Cabbage Gooseberries or pears or in winter ______P t *1 iy> -Q* lJ—r .n r - i+1-. — ------

E r r a t u m served early in the Page 19, line 6. F o r Abilton, r e a d Stilton. England 19

Fats—beef suet, butter, margarine, mutton suet, pork suet. Cereals—oatmeal. Nuts. Milk—cow’s milk. Cheese—Abilton, Cheddar, Cheshire, Wensleydale.

M ethods of P reparation Meats—roasted, baked, boiled, fried, potted, braised. Vegetables—boiled, steamed, baked. Cereals—boiled. Fish—fried, boiled, baked, broiled.

C haracteristic D is h e s Beefsteak and kidney pie Yorkshire pudding

M e n u s BREAKFAST * Poached egg and fried bacon Porridge Toast, butter, marmalade Tea or Cold boiled ham Brown and white bread Butter, marmalade Tea DINNER Beefsteak and kidney pie Boiled potatoes Cabbage Gooseberries or pears or in winter Prunes and custard

* In many homes bread and butter and tea are served early in the •orning. 20 Old World Foods for New World Families

TEA Bread and butter Buttered scones Tea, cream and sugar and occasionally Lettuce or water cress

SUPPER Pea soup Ham (from soup) Potatoes Vegetables Boiled suet pudding

R ecipes

l e n t il SOUP 1 pint red lentils 8 cups water 1 onion 1 teaspoonful salt 2 sticks of celery \ teaspoonful pepper 2 tablespoonfuls butter 2 grated carrots Wash the lentils in cold water. Clean the vegetables and put the onions, lentils, and chopped celery with the butter into a saucepan. Cover and place over the fire for five minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the water and mix thoroughly. Let the soup simmer from one to one and a half hours. Pour the soup through a wire sieve into a bowl, rubbing the vegetables through with a wooden spoon. Return the soup to the saucepan, adding pepper and salt. When the soup boils stir, pour into a soup tureen, and serve.

DRESSED TRIPE 2 pounds tripe 1 carrot 1 teaspoonful salt 1 turnip i teaspoonful pepper 1 cupful water i pound bacon Cut the tripe in strips. In each place a little salt and pepper and a piece of bacon. Roll up and tie with a piece of string. Place the pieces in a saucepan and cover with the water, sliced carrot, and England 21 turnip. Cook slowly for one and one-half hours, or until quite tender. TOAD IN THE HOLE i pound cooked beef, 1 cupful milk veal, or sausage 1 tablespoonful chopped i cupful flour parsley 1 egg Pinch of salt Mix the flour and salt together and add the yolk of the egg, stirring in enough milk to make a smooth batter. Beat well, add the rest of the milk, and then the beaten egg white. Cut the meat into slices and with the parsley place in a well-greased bak­ ing dish. Pour over the batter and bake in a hot oven about one hour. RABBIT PIE 1 rabbit 2 bay leaves 1 onion Flaky pastry Wash and cut up the rabbit and season with salt and pepper and roll in flour. Sear in fat to which the onion and bay leaves have been added. Cover with water and cook until tender. Place in a baking dish and cover with gravy made from the fat in which the rabbit was cooked. Cover the meat with a rich pastry, trim the edges, and cut small openings in the top to allow steam to escape. Bake in a hot oven. Beefsteak and kidney pie is prepared in the same way.

CORNISH PASTIES i pound mutton or beef \ pound flour \ pound potatoes 6 tablespoonfuls lard Pepper and salt 1 teaspoonful baking powder Small piece of onion Pinch of salt Cut the meat and potatoes into small pieces, add the onion chopped fine and the pepper and salt, and mix well together. Rub the lard into the flour and add the baking powder and salt. Mix the whole into a stiff paste with water and roll out into a square. Cut into eight pieces, put a tablespoonful of the mixture on each, wet the edges and draw the opposite corners together, and then press the edges and crimp them with the thumb and finger. Place on a greased tin and bake in a quick oven for one-half hour. 22 Old World Foods for New World Families

Y ork sh ire P udding Mix one-fourth teaspoonful of salt with one-half cupful of flour and add one cup of milk gradually until a smooth paste is obtained. Add two well-beaten eggs (beaten two minutes with an egg beater). Cover the bottom of a hot pan with part of the beef fat fried out from the roast and pour the mixture into the pan to a thickness of one-half inch. Bake in a hot oven for twenty minutes, decreasing the heat toward the last. Cut into squares and serve on the plat­ ter around the roast. The pudding may be baked in greased, hiss­ ing hot muffin tins.

ROUND OR FINGER ROLLS 7 cupfuls flour 1 cupful butter 2 tablespoonfuls baking powder 1 cupful milk \ teaspoonful salt Mix the dry ingredients, rub in the butter, and mix to a fairly stiff dough with the milk. Let stand for thirty minutes. Divide into two-ounce pieces and subdivide each into quarters. Shape into drops, brush with egg yolk, and bake in a hot oven. The recipe makes seventy-five rolls.

SCONES 2 cupfuls flour 3 teaspoonfuls baking powder 2 tablespoonfuls butter \ teaspoonful salt ^ to § cupful milk Sift the flour, salt, and baking powder together, rub in the butter, and mix thoroughly with the milk. Roll to one-half inch thickness and cut into eight triangular pieces. Bake in a fairly hot oven for ten to fifteen minutes. Serve with clotted cream and jam. SHORTBREAD 2 cupfuls flour i cupful confectioner’s sugar 1 cupful butter 2 teaspoonfuls vanilla Knead the butter and sugar on a baking board and add the flour gradually. Pat into cakes one-half inch thick, place on cookie sheets, and prick each cake with a fork, as for pie crust. Bake in a moderate oven twenty to thirty minutes. FIN LA N D *

In the little republic of Finland the land is rugged, the winters long, cold, and dark, and the summers short. The people work hard for their livelihood and their situation has made them industrious and thrifty. The diet of the Finnish peasant consists mainly of meat, fish, potatoes, cooked cereals, bread, and dairy products. In summer this is varied with wild berries, of which there is a variety in Finland. Two rare and delicious kinds are the cloudberry and the bramble- berry, which grow in great abundance. However, fresh fruit and vegetables are a luxury the greater part of the year, and the Finnish diet tends to be more or less monotonous. In the summer the city-dwellers and the well-to-do use a good deal of fresh fruit and vegetables, mushrooms, and crab meat (the last two much more commonly than Americans use them); in the winter they use dried fruit, vegetables, and mushrooms, in addi­ tion to the staples. The pastry made in the well-to-do homes is delicious; it is served with coffee made as the northern people alone can make it. The fact that Finland has thousands of lakes and is nearly surrounded by water explains the large part fish plays in the diet of the people. It is prepared in many different ways. Much of it is fried, boiled, or broiled while it is fresh; salted salmon, white fish, and trout are common, as are smoked and pickled fish. The slaughtering is done in the winter time. Several methods of preserving the meat are followed. Some is smoked in the steam bathhouse, some is pickled, and a large part of it is salted and hung outdoors to dry. A favorite dish of all Finns is clabber milk (viilia), made by putting about a tablespoonful of sour cream into a bowl of warm, whole milk and setting it in a moderately cool place to sour.

* The author is indebted to Helmi M. Warren for this introduction. 23 24 Old World Foods for New World Families

T ypical F ood M aterials Meats—beef, fish (cod, crab, herring, lobster, perch, pick­ erel, pike, salmon, smelt, trout, white fish), fowl (chicken, grouse, partridge), mutton, pork, rabbit, veal, venison. Vegetables—most common, beets, carrots, onions, pota­ toes, rutabagas, turnips; less common, asparagus, cauliflower, celery, cucumbers, lettuce, mushrooms (27 varieties), radishes, rhubarb, spinach, tomatoes. Fruits—apples, blackberries, blueberries, cherries, cloud­ berries, cranberries, gooseberries, huckleberries, lin- genberries, pears, plums, raspberries, strawberries. Other fruits are imported. Fats—butter, lard, oleomargarine. Cereals—barley, buckwheat, farina, graham meal, oat­ meal, rice, rye, sago. Nuts—hazel nuts, walnuts, and imported nuts. Milk—cow’s milk. Cheese—domestic and imported.

M etho ds of P reparation Meats—broiled, fried, frost- and sun-baked, roasted, smoked, stewed. Tongue, baked in crust made of rye flour and water, is a favorite dish. Fish—boiled, broiled, fried, in pastry, salted, smoked. Vegetables—baked, boiled, fried, steamed, with butter and milk. Cereals—baked after cooking, steamed; oatmeal is used in porridge, soups, and in pudding with raisins. Milk—used sweet, as buttermilk, and clabbered (viMa). Cheese—large, round, flat cheese cakes are made.

C haracteristic D is h e s Mammi. Rye meal mixed with water to a thick consis­ tency, heated over a slow fire, flavored, then baked in an oven in birch-bark baskets, and served with cream. Finland 25

Viilia. Clabbered milk and cream in large bowls. Korppuja. Rusks. Nakkileipaa. Hardtack. Kalakukko. A whole fish baked in a crust. Uunijuusto. Thickened and sweetened milk from fresh­ ened cow, baked in the oven. Matia. Raw fresh fish eggs seasoned with salt and onions. Verikakuja. Blood bread, cake, sausages, pudding. Rusinavelli. A dried fruit soup served as dessert. Rieska. A flat bread of rye or graham.

M e n u s BREAKFAST Broiled fish Rice milk Coffee with whole milk or Fried salt pork and gravy Boiled potatoes Oatmeal and coffee

DINNER Tomato soup Milk rice Roast veal and potatoes Strawberry jelly with whipped cream

SUPPER Pea soup Meat and potato pudding Apple sauce

R e c ip e s r ic e MILK Boil one quart of milk with two cupfuls of rice, season with salt, and cook on a slow fire until tender. Add one tablespoonful of butter and serve. CABBAGE SOUP Cut lamb in pieces, cover with cold water, and cook one hour. Add chopped cabbage, onions, and celery. Boil one and one-half hours, add a little milk, and serve. 26 Old World Foods for New World Families

FISH SOUP Cut the fish in pieces, place on the fire in cold water, and when boiling add potatoes and carrots. Cook forty minutes, add milk and butter, and serve.

SOUP DUMPLINGS 2 eggs i cupful sultana raisins 3 tablespoonfuls sugar Salt to taste 2 cupfuls cream Flour to thicken l i cupfuls bread crumbs Beat the eggs, add sugar, cream, bread crumbs, and raisins, and season with salt. Add enough flour to make a drop batter. Drop spoonfuls of batter into the soup and cook twenty minutes.

FINNISH SALMON LOAF 1 pound salted salmon 1 large onion 8 potatoes 2 cupfuls milk 2 eggs 1 tablespoonful flour £ teaspoonful black pepper 2 tablespoonfuls bread crumbs Soak the salmon in cold water to remove the salt, then cut in small pieces. Peel and slice the potatoes. Place the salmon and potatoes in a loaf pan in alternate layers and mix the rest of the ingredients together and pour over the potatoes and salmon. Bake one and one-half hours.

LIVER LOAF \ pound ground beef liver 2 tablespoonfuls sugar 1 cupful rice 2 eggs | cupful raisins 1 tablespoonful butter Salt to taste Boil the rice with the raisins till about half done. Mix with the other ingredients and bake in a buttered loaf pan for one and one- half hours. This recipe serves six people.

MEAT WITH HORSERADISH SAUCE 2 pounds soup meat 2 quarts water 1 tablespoonful salt Finland 27

SAUCE 2 tablespoonfuls butter ^ quart meat stock i tablespoonful flour 1 teaspoonful vinegar i tablespoonful grated horseradish, and salt and sugar to taste Boil the meat and skim the broth, salt, and let boil under cover slowly until tender. Cut the meat into pieces. Brown the butter and flour, add gradually two cupfuls of strained meat stock, and boil a few minutes. Season with vinegar, salt, and sugar. Pour the sauce over the grated horseradish and serve with potatoes and meat.

LAMB STEW WITH DILL SAUCE 2 pounds lamb stew 1^ tablespoonfuls salt l i quarts water Dry dill

SAUCE 1 quart meat stock 1 tablespoonful sugar | tablespoonful flour 3 tablespoonfuls vinegar 3 tablespoonfuls crushed dill Boil the meat in the hot salted water. When tender cut into small pieces and strain the stock. Let the strained stock come to the boiling point, then add thickening and boil ten minutes. Add sugar, vinegar, and dill. Pour the sauce over the meat and serve.

FINNISH SALAD 2 parts diced potatoes 1 large onion 1 part diced carrots Hard-boiled eggs 1 part diced beets 1 salted herring Cold meat if desired Cook the vegetables separately without peeling, and when cool peel and dice. Dice the onions and add to the vegetables. Add the herring cut in pieces. Mix all the ingredients together, season to taste, and serve with vinegar. 3 28 Old World Foods for New World Families

BERRY PUDDING 2 quarts water 3 cupfuls farina 3 cupfuls fresh loganberries, 6 tablespoonfuls brown lingenberries, or cranberries sugar Boil the fruit and water twenty minutes. Strain, add the sugar and farina to the juice, and boil thirty minutes. Beat to a light pink. Cream may be served with the pudding.

DELICIOUS NUT CAKE 6 eggs i pound shelled nuts 1 cupful sugar 2 tablespoonfuls flour Beat the egg yolks, add the sugar, and beat thoroughly. Add the ground nuts and flour, beating continually. Fold in the beaten egg whites and pour into a buttered sponge cake tin lined with bread crumbs. Bake in a moderate oven. When served with whipped cream this cake makes a delicious dessert.

FRUIT SOUP 1 cupful raisins 2 quarts water 1 cupful prunes 1 cupful sugar or syrup \ cupful sago 1 teaspoonful vinegar Cinnamon bark to taste Wash the fruit, cover with cold water, and boil for about one- half hour. Add the soaked sago and cinnamon bark. Cook slowly for about one hour, adding the sugar or syrup and the vinegar just before removing from the fire. This soup is served as a dessert. GREECE *

To assert that there is a truly national Greek cuisine would be an exaggeration; rather, the Greek kitchen is largely Oriental. In fact, one may venture to say that the only distinctively national dish is barbecued lamb. For lack of the proper facilities for roast­ ing the lamb whole it is impossible to cook it thus in the home, but it is always roasted at a picnic, when a number of Greeks join for a day’s enjoyment. Barbecued lamb is delicious, but it takes an expert to prepare and roast it. The Greek is very fond of soups, rich, creamy, and spicy, and also of braised vegetables and lamb with a very rich sauce. Some of the Greek dishes, such as lamb cooked with rice and served with a sauce, and rice with Bulgarian milk, are improved Turkish dishes, as are also the famous Paklava and Cataif and other sweets. Several favorite dishes are prepared and flavored with wine. The Greeks are fond also of macaroni and spaghetti, cooked a la Greque rather than a Vltalienne. The chief fats used are olive oil and butter. These are used lavishly, perhaps in part because of the many meatless fast days imposed by the Orthodox Church. These fast days explain also the frequent serving of fish, which is prepared in various ways. The Greeks use rather mild condiments. In common with other Southern Europeans they like wine with their meals. Though they seldom eat between meals, they drink innumerable cups of Turkish coffee.

T ypical F ood M aterials Meats—beef, chicken, duck, fish fresh and salted, lamb, turkey. Vegetables—celery, dandelion greens, eggplant, endive, green peppers, lettuce, okra, parsley (straight leaf), potatoes, spinach, squash (small green striped), string beans, tomatoes.

* For this introduction the author is indebted to Eva Vafiadi. 29 30 Old World Foods for New World Families

Fruits—apples, figs, grapes, lemons, peaches, pears, oranges, raisins. Fats—beef suet, butter, lamb fat, olive oil. Cereals—rice, wheat. Nuts—almonds, chestnuts, pine nuts, walnuts. Milk—Yaourite (fermented milk). Cheese—made chiefly from goat’s milk.

M ethods of P reparation Meats—broiled, roasted, stewed. Vegetables—baked, boiled. Fats—used as a seasoning with meat; otherwise, olive oil is used.

M e n u s BREAKFAST Figs, or fresh fruit in season Cheese with bread Coffee made with milk, or Turkish coffee

SUNDAY DINNER Avgolemono (chicken soup with egg and lemon) Cota Psitie me Patats (chicken with potatoes) Ripe olives Greek bread Salad of tomato, lettuce, and chopped onion Paklava Fruit (grapes, apples, oranges) Cheese Turkish coffee

DINNER Yahni with meat Salad of lettuce, green onion, and dill Olives Greek bread Cheese Fruit Greece 31

SUPPER Fried fish Radikia me ladi (boiled dandelion greens with olive oil) Olives Greek bread Fruit Cheese

R ecipes MEAT BALLS To one pound of ground meat add one cupful of rice, two medium-sized onions chopped fine, salt and pepper to season, a little chopped peppermint, and one well-beaten egg. Make into balls the size of a walnut. Roll in flour, drop in boiling salted water or broth, and cook about one-half hour. To one well-beaten egg add the juice of one lemon and a small amount of the broth, then pour this mixture into the soup. It should thicken, not curdle, the broth. BAKED FISH Place the fish in a roasting pan, the bottom of which has been covered with sliced onions. Pour over the fish one can of toma­ toes, one-half cupful of olive oil, chopped parsley, and two sliced lemons. Bake at least one hour and serve with garlic sauce if desired. GARLIC SAUCE Mince one clove of garlic with a little salt and a slice of bread dipped in hot water. Season with olive oil and vinegar. The sauce may be served with lamb as well as with baked fish.

HALVA Melt one-fourth of a pound of butter and add two cupfuls of Quaker Farina and a handful of blanched almonds or pine nuts. Place over a low fire and stir until the Farina becomes yellow, or about fifteen minutes. Add four cupfuls of milk or water, or half and half, to two cupfuls of sugar. Boil to a syrup and pour into the cooked Farina. Cover with a towel, mold, and serve as a dessert. Cinnamon may be sprinkled over the top. 32 Old World Foods jor New World Families

RAVANIE Cream one pound of butter and one pound of powdered sugar. Add three eggs well beaten and half a box of Quaker Farina, then add four more eggs and the rest of the box of Farina. Beat thoroughly and spread in a pan. Bake in a slow oven for about twenty minutes, or until brown on top. Cut in diamond shapes.

STUFFED EGGPLANT Cut an opening in the eggplant and stuff with a mixture of to­ mato, chopped parsley and onion, salt, pepper, and olive oil. Brown the eggplant in olive oil and bake for at least one and one-half hours. y a h n i The Greeks make yahni much as the Armenians do (see page 9). However, instead of invariably adding string beans to the onions, tomatoes, and fat, the Greeks use either endive, spinach, cauli­ flower, cabbage, potatoes, or eggplant cut in cubes and browned in fat. ALMOND CAKES l i pounds ground and blanched 1^ pounds powdered sugar almonds 6 egg whites Mix the ground almonds with the sugar and add the beaten egg whites. Put into a pastry gun and make into different shapes. Bake until light brown. THEPLES 3 eggs Juice of 1 orange Flour enough to make a stiff dough Mix the eggs, well beaten, the orange juice, and the flour into a stiff dough. Roll out in very thin sheets, cut in strips, and form into various shapes. Fry in oil, then dip in syrup and powder with sugar. RIZOGALO Heat one quart of milk. Add three-fourths of a cupful of rice and three-fourths of a cupful of sugar. Cook slowly for at least one and one-half hours, or until of a creamy consistency. Sprinkle with cinnamon and serve. HUNGARY *

The food and drink of the Hungarians are spicy and rich, as their temperament, manifested in their dances, music, and litera­ ture, is fiery and quick. The nation’s boast—“ Hungaria, the land with milk and honey overflowing ”—is true as far as natural re­ sources are concerned, and the upper and middle classes live up to this standard in the table they set. The poorer peasant and work­ ing classes, however, have more or less vegetarian dietaries, and their characteristic boiled pastries, such as noodles and dumplings, make up the chief part of their meals. A typical peasant meal con­ sists of gidyas (rancher’s soup) with potatoes or paprikas, or one of various homemade sausages boiled with beans, sauerkraut, or potatoes. The Hungarian housewife of the old school still serves two meat courses at dinner about every second day, with boiled and baked pastries alternating as a third course. The first course at dinner is invariably a soup, usually either strained beef or chicken broth with fine noodles, rice, or liver dumplings. Fresh vegetables are scarce in the winter time, since the tariff prohibits the importation of fresh vegetables from southern Europe. Potatoes are not served as often as in America; rather, more bread is eaten. The sweet red pepper or paprika and the hot red pepper are Hungary’s most characteristic spices. The Hungarian stuffed green peppers are famous. Butter is used only in its sweet, unsalted state, and is not served with rich meals but rather as itself a prominent food at breakfast or in combination with cold suppers. Tarhonya is the most characteristic flour product of the Hun­ garians. It is made of flour and eggs and a little water by grad­ ually sprinkling and stirring the flour with the egg and water and rubbing the mixture through various grades of coarse sieves, until a kernel-like product is produced. This is dried and stored away in

For this introduction the author is indebted to Eva Stimm. 33 34 Old World Foods for New World Families large quantities for months. Tarhonya is usually browned in lard or butter, steamed, and served, instead of potatoes, with boiled meats. Like most Europeans, the Hungarians have five meals a day—an early breakfast, consisting of coffee made very strong and served with boiled milk in equal parts, accompanied by bread and sweet butter or the famous butter buns made by the Hungarian and Austrian professional baker; a second breakfast at ten o’clock of a sandwich or eggs or quickly fried meat; dinner at noon, which is the heaviest meal of the day; four o’clock coffee, with a bun or some fancy cake; and supper.

T ypical F ood M aterials Meats—beef, chicken, goose, lamb, pork, rabbit, turkey, veal, venison. Vegetables—beets, cabbage (white and red), carrots, cauliflower, celeraic, kale, kohl rabi, lettuce, onions, parsley, parsley root, potatoes, string beans, toma­ toes, vegetable marrow. Fruits—apples, apricots, cherries, grapes, melons, peaches, pears. Fats—butter in pastry, lard. Cereals—barley, cornstarch, farina. Nuts—almonds, hazel nuts, walnuts. Milk—milk in puddings; sour cream. Cheese—made from ewe’s milk; cottage cheese.

M ethods of P reparation Meats—roasted, stewed. Vegetables—boiled in various combinations. Cereals—used in dumplings.

C haracteristic D is h e s Gulyas Noodles Retes Teszta Csirke Paprikas Hungary 35

M e n u s

BREAKFAST Coffee with milk Rolls Honey or apricot butter

DINNER Beef soup with maj gombocz (liver dumplings) Boiled beef garnished with browned tarhonya Pickle sauce Palacsinta filled with jelly or marmalade or Hus leves (meat soup) Porkolt (veal with onion) Rakott krmnpli (escalloped potatoes with egg) Paradicsomos kaposzta (tomatoes and cabbage) Rozskenyer (rye bread) Lekvaros pite (raspberry pastries) or Paszuly leves (string bean soup) Stuffed peppers with tomato sauce Potato dumplings sprinkled with crumbs browned in butter or lard

SUPPER Sliced cold meat Young onions Radishes Bread Sweet butter Tea or Paprikas with noodles or potatoes Cucumber salad or pickles Small cakes and fruit, fresh or preserved 36 Old World Foods for New World Families

H oliday M e n u s

d in n e r Chicken soup with fine noodles Boiled chicken sprinkled with horseradish and garnished with mashed potato balls Cauliflower in cream sauce Stuffed turkey Compote of fruit, fresh, stewed, or canned Retes Teszta (strudel), filled with apples, nuts, sweet cottage cheese, and raisins or cherries or Fank (like raised doughnuts) Black coffee

SUPPER Eszterhazi (steak in sour cream) Browned potatoes Lettuce or pickles or Breaded young chicken Warm cabbage salad Vajas kifle (butter and nut crescents) Fresh fruits Tea with lemon

R ecipes MARHA HUS LEVES METELTTEL VAGY GOMBOCCAL (Beef broth with noodles or dumplings) 2^ pounds rump or rib beef 1 small clove of garlic 1 small bunch celery 1 slice green pepper pound carrots 2 leaves of cabbage i pound parsley root and i ounce whole ginger greens 15 whole black peppers 1 medium-sized onion Dash of nutmeg i cupful stewed tomatoes 2 level tablespoonfuls salt or 2 fresh tomatoes quarts water Cover the meat with the water, add the vegetables and the spices tied in a small bag, and bring to a boil quickly. Continue Hungary 37 cooking very slowly from two to two and one-half hours, depend­ ing upon the quality of the meat. Strain and cook the noodles in the broth. Farina dumplings may be used instead of noodles. They are made as follows: To two beaten eggs add one tablespoonful of melted butter. Add very gradually about one-third cupful of farina or Cream of Wheat, or enough to make a drop batter. Let the mixture stand about ten minutes, then drop about a third of a teaspoonful at a time into the boiling broth. When the dump­ lings come to the top the soup is ready to serve. Serve the meat with a sauce made of tomato, cherry, onion, cu­ cumber, horseradish, or gooseberries.

CHERRY SAUCE 2 level tablespoonfuls lard or butter 1 teaspoonful salt 3 level tablespoonfuls flour Dash of cinnamon 1J cupfuls sour cherries, pitted Sugar to taste £ cupful sour cream 1^ cupfuls water Blend the shortening and the flour on the fire until golden brown, take off the fire, and mix with the cherries, water, and seasoning. Cook for ten minutes, stirring constantly. Add the cream, boil two more minutes, and serve hot with the cooked beef.

PASZULY LEVES (String bean soup) Melt one and one-half tablespoonfuls of butter in a saucepan, add two tablespoonfuls of flour and cook until brown. Add one quart of milk and one can of string beans and boil for about ten minutes. MAJ GOMBOCZ (Liver dumplings) To one pound of scraped or ground liver add one tablespoonful of finely chopped onions and one tablespoonful of finely chopped parsley. Season with salt and pepper and add farina or Cream of Wheat until the mixture can be made into small balls. Drop these balls into boiling broth and cook about ten minutes. 38 Old World Foods for New World Families

GULYAS Heat two tablespoonfuls of lard in a skillet. When hot, add two or three chopped onions, salt and paprika, three or four table- spoonfuls of tomatoes, and one pound of veal or beef cut into small pieces. Let the mixture cook for a few minutes and then add enough water to cover the meat. Cover tightly and cook for about an hour. Add three or four medium-sized potatoes cut into small squares and cook until tender.

PORKOLT In two tablespoonfuls of fat brown one chopped onion. Add three pounds of veal cut into two-inch cubes, one tomato, and one green pepper cut into small pieces. Cover and cook slowly for one and one-half to two hours.

CSIRKE PAPRIKAS (Chicken with paprika) Heat two tablespoonfuls of lard. Add a chicken cut into pieces, cover, and cook until the chicken browns. Add salt, one-half can of tomatoes or tomato soup, enough hot water to cover the chicken, and enough paprika to give the mixture a pinkish color. When the chicken is tender make a gravy by adding flour and milk. One- half pint of sour cream may be used instead of sweet milk.

PARADICSOMOS KAPOSZTA (Tomato with cabbage) Shred a head of cabbage, pour boiling water over it, let stand one-half hour, and drain. Add the cabbage to four cupfuls of strained tomatoes and cook about one-half hour. Add a thickening made of one tablespoonful of butter and two tablespoonfuls of flour, and boil.

RAKOTT KRUMPLI (Escalloped potatoes with eggs) Butter a baking dish and dust the sides and bottom with finely ground bread crumbs. Fill with alternate layers of potatoes and sliced, hard-cooked eggs, almost cover with sour cream, and bake one-half hour. Hungary 39

RETES TESZTA OR STRUDEL What pie means to the Americans this pastry means to the Hungarian household. It is the typical Hungarian dessert and the pride of the Hungarian housewife. The first requirement for suc­ cess in making this pastry is the proper flour—a fine quality, dry bread flour—for without it the dough will tear when it is stretched. The important quality of retes is its flakiness. Mix two pounds of flour, one egg, one teaspoonful of salt, and one tablespoonful of cold lard into a very soft batter with just the amount of lukewarm water that can be handled on a pastry board. Beat vigorously for about ten minutes, or until the mixture bubbles, then add enough flour to allow making the pastry into balls. Flatten the balls, cover, and let stand in a warm place about fifteen minutes. In the meantime prepare a filling of sliced sweetened apples and a few raisins and cinnamon; or pitted fresh cherries, sweetened; or cottage cheese mixed with eggs, sugar, raisins, and lemon as flavoring. Fried cabbage, salted and peppered, is also used. Place a cloth on the table, sprinkle evenly with flour so the stretched batter will not stick to it, and put one of the dough rolls in the center, rolling until very thin. Take hold of the edges of the pastry with the tip of the fingers and start stretching it, pulling evenly, walking around and around the table, until the dough is as thin as tissue paper. Tear off the thick edge carefully. Let the fine sheet of dough dry for a few minutes, but not long enough to allow it to become brittle. Sprinkle with melted lard or butter and spread the filling over the dough. Fold the dough over like a turn­ over, then, beginning at the narrow end, make a long roll. Place in a shallow oblong greased baking tin. Prepare two other rolls in the same manner. Grease the tops with lard or butter and bake about fifteen minutes in a quick oven. Cut in smaller pieces, sprinkle with powdered sugar, and serve hot or cold.

PALACSINTA (Pancake roll) Mix three egg yolks, one tablespoonful of sugar, two cupfuls of flour, and enough milk to make a thin batter. Fold in the three egg whites, beaten stiffly. Bake in a hot skillet greased with lard, browning both sides. Cover with jam or jelly and roll like a jelly roll. 40 Old World Foods jor New World Families

BUTTER CAKES i pint sour cream 2 eggs 1 quart flour 1^ cups sugar Pinch of salt \ pound butter melted 1 teaspoonful baking powder Sift the flour and baking powder together and add salt and sugar. Make a hole in the middle of the mixture and pour in the melted butter, beaten eggs, and sour cream. Make a soft dough and work like bread. Roll to about one-eighth-inch thickness and cut in small squares. Fill each with the nut mixture described below, gather up the four corners, and pinch together. Glaze the top of the cakes with beaten egg yolk and bake about fifteen minutes.

MIXTURE FOR FILLING i cupful boiling milk i pound English walnuts 1 teaspoonful butter chopped fine Generous pinch of cinnamon 2 tablespoonfuls seedless i cupful sugar raisins Boil the mixture until it is thick.

LEKVAROS PITE (Raspberry pastries) Sift together two cupfuls of flour, one heaping teaspoonful of baking powder, two teaspoonfuls of sugar, and one-half teaspoonful of salt. Add four tablespoonfuls of butter, two tablespoonfuls of lard, and one-half cupful of milk, mixing thoroughly. Roll the dough to one-fourth-inch thickness and place in a square cake pan. Cover with raspberry jam and make a lattice work of narrow strips of dough across the top. Bake in a hot oven until evenly browned. Sprinkle with powdered sugar and cut at once into squares. ITA LY *

Italian cooking is considered an art. To understand it one must realize that each province has its characteristic dish, its nature determined in part by the climatic conditions and location of the province. Thus, in the north corn and rice are plentiful and these are the chief foods; on the seacoast fresh fish form the chief article of diet; and in the mountain regions the people eat many greens. Fresh fruits are eaten in abundance throughout Italy, and much use is made of the various kinds of cheese. Olive oil is used for frying and for salads; in some parts butter is used instead. In certain sections meat is served fairly often; in other sections, es­ pecially among the peasant class, it is not served more than once a week. Wine is served as a part of the meal. The menu usually consists of a soup; a dish of spaghetti, rice, or a vegetable combined with meat or cheese; a salad, usually of lettuce and tomato, dressed with olive oil and vinegar; cheese; and a fresh fruit. Each dish is usually served as a separate course. It is believed that macaroni and spaghetti were introduced into the southern part of Italy several centuries ago by the Nordics. Both rich and poor serve it commonly—either by tradition or for economic reasons, for it is a dish that satisfies, nourishes when properly prepared, and costs very little.

T ypical F ood M aterials Meats—beef, chicken, fish, lamb, veal. Vegetables—artichokes, beans, broccoli, fava, eggplant, endive, lentils, mushrooms, mustard, peas, squash, string beans, tomatoes. Fruits—apricots, cherries, figs, grapes, oranges, salted olives, tangerines. Fats—butter, olive oil. Cereals—rice, corn meal, wheat (in spaghetti).

* For this introduction the author is indebted to Rose Esperti Tomasino. 41 42 Old World Foods for New World Families

Nuts—almonds (green), chestnuts, hazel nuts, pine cone seeds, pistachio nuts, walnuts. Cheese—Parmesan, Reggiano, Gorgonzola.

M etho ds of P reparation Meats—boiled, roasted, stewed. Beef, pork, and chicken are often cooked in tomato sauce to be served with macaroni. Salt pork or lard is usually used in preparing meat. Vegetables—boiled in broth, or boiled in salted water and seasoned with salt, pepper, and olive oil; fried in olive oil; olive oil is used generally for seasoning. Tomatoes are used almost daily. Fruits—commonly served fresh after the noon and eve­ ning meals. Cereals—rice is cooked in several ways—it is sometimes boiled in milk, sweetened, and flavored with cinna­ mon; polenta, or com meal, is cooked in water like mush and seasoned, like spaghetti, with meat, tomato sauce, and grated cheese. Nuts—are often served with fruits and cheese after dinner. Beverages—chocolate, cocoa, or coffee is served for break­ fast; grape wine is always served with meals; black coffee is usually served after dinner.

M e n u s * BREAKFAST Coffee with milk Rolls LUNCH (COLAZIONE) Hors d’Oeuvres (antipasti) White celery Sardines in oil Green olives Consomme in cup (brodo ristretto, legumi in brodo)

These menus were served on board an Italian steamship. Italy 43

Buttered spaghetti, tomato sauce (spaghetti al herro, salsa pomodoro) Slice of halibut a la maitre d’hotel (fette di pesce passera alia maggiordomo) Stuffed cold breast of veal (petto di vitella jarsito) Vegetable salad (insalata di legumi) Cheese, Swiss-Fontina (formaggi, Guviera-Fontina) Fruits—cherries, bananas (jrutta—ciliege, banane) Coffee (caffe)

DINNER (PRANZO) Consomme in cup (brodo ristretto, perele in brodo) Vegetables in fritter batter (minestrone alia casalinga, frittura mista alia Fiorentina) Roast beef Buttered vegetables (legumi al herro) Lettuce salad (insalata di lattuga) Neapolitan tart (torto Napoletano) Assorted fruits (jrutta assortita) Coffee (caffe)

R ecipes

risotto Risotto is one of the staple foods of the north Italian peasantry. It is usually made with butter, but olive oil or margarine may be used instead. To serve four people allow half a cupful of rice, three tablespoon­ fuls of butter or oil, two large onions, half a cupful of grated cheese, and two or more cupfuls of clear soup or meat stock. Slice the onions and cook them in melted butter for about five minutes, taking care that they do not brown. Add the rice, allowing it to take up as much butter as it will. Add a cupful of the liquid a little at a time and let the mixture simmer until it is a soft thick paste, adding more liquid as needed. At the last moment season with one teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of a teaspoonful of pepper, and half a cupful of grated cheese. Cover and let the soup steam for several minutes. 4 44 Old World Foods for New World Families

MACARONI WITH GRAVY Brown meat in a frying pan and remove to a dish. To the meat drippings gradually add hot strained tomatoes. Cook until almost dry, keeping the tomatoes at the boiling point. Add stock or boil­ ing water and the meat and allow to simmer. Pour the gravy over a platter of macaroni which has been cooked in boiling, salted water and drained. Sprinkle grated cheese over the top and serve hot.

VEAL BIRDS Cut veal steak into four-inch squares and sprinkle with minced parsley, chopped garlic, sliced smoked ham, salt, pepper, and a pinch of grated cheese. Roll the squares and pin them together with toothpicks. Brown in a frying pan and serve with gravy or vegetables.

SPINACH Boil and drain spinach. Fry in part oil and part butter with a clove of garlic and peppercorns.

ENDIVE SALAD Line a salad bowl with sliced tomatoes. Fill the bowl with endive, garnishing with rings of pepper and half a clove of garlic finely chopped. Pour over the salad a dressing made of oil, vinegar, and salt beaten together.

GNOCCHI ALLA ROMANA Cook one cup of Cream of Wheat or farina in four cupfuls of milk or water until thick. Pour into a pan to a depth of half an inch, cool, and cut into squares. In a buttered baking dish place alternate layers of the gnocchi and grated cheese. Bake in a moderate oven for twenty or twenty-five minutes.

FRITTURA MIST A Add pieces of cooked vegetables—cauliflower, string beans, strips of onions, and squash—sliced cooked veal, and chicken to a fritter batter. Fry in deep fat. Italy 45

ITALIAN SPAGHETTI 1 pound spaghetti 1 medium-sized can tomatoes 1 pound round steak 1 small onion Salt pork, size of a lemon, Pinch of salt or 1 cupful of butter 2 or 3 whole cloves of pepper Grated Parmesan cheese

Grind the salt pork and place half of it on the steak with a few sprigs of parsley, a piece of garlic, and salt and pepper. Tie with a string and cook with the sliced onion in a saucepan in which the other half of the salt pork has been melted. When brown add the strained tomatoes and salt and pepper. Cook slowly until the meat is well done. Add water a little at a time as required. Pour the gravy over macaroni cooked until tender (not overdone) in boiling salted water and drained. Sprinkle grated cheese over the top and serve.

EGGPLANT ALLA PARMESAN Sprinkle half-inch slices of eggplant with salt and saute in olive oil until brown. Remove and saute slices of French bread in the olive oil. Beat together eight eggs, six tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese, and finely chopped parsley. In a baking dish place layers of tomato sauce, eggplant, egg mixture, and bread, until full, and bake.

RISSOTO IN BRANCO (Rice and vegetables) Cook a finely chopped onion slowly in a little butter; do not allow it to brown. Add one cupful of rice, stir, and cook for a few minutes. Add three cupfuls of chicken or beef stock or soup, and salt. Cook fifteen or twenty minutes, stirring often to prevent sticking. Just before serving add butter and grated cheese. Egg yolk may be added to the onion and butter. If it is used, stir in the rice a little at a time, so that the egg will not be cooked at this time. 46 Old World Foods jor New World Families

MOSAIC CAKE | cupful sugar 3 eggs 3 tablespoonfuls milk 1 cupful flour 1 teaspoonful baking powder Beat the egg yolks until thick and gradually add sugar and milk, mixing well. Carefully fold in the sifted flour and baking powder and then the beaten egg whites. Place in a greased layer cake tin and bake about twenty minutes in a moderate oven. When cool line a buttered mold with half of the cake, sliced, half of the cream filling made as described below and cooled, and a layer of canned peaches, sliced and drained. Repeat with the other half of the cake and cream filling and another layer of peaches. Set in a cool place. Turn out on a plate and serve.

CREAM FILLING 1 pint milk 1 tablespoonful cornstarch | cupful sugar 4 egg yolks 1 teaspoonful vanilla Mix the cornstarch and sugar, add the milk, and cook. Add the egg yolks and beat. Cook in a double boiler until of the right con­ sistency. When cool add the vanilla. MEXICO *

There is a different way of cooking in each of the Spanish- American countries. As in some European countries, the women spend most of their time in the kitchen. As in Spain the main dish is duchero, having as its main ingredient garbanzos or Spanish dried peas, so in Mexico beans are the main food. Strong condi­ ments and hot chile are used. Indian corn, prepared in many different ways, and platanos, which resemble bananas but are used, either green or ripe, as vegetables, are served daily by the Central Americans. La Olla, a combination of many vegetables, is served daily by the poorer people. Corn and rice are commonly used by the South Americans. All kinds of vegetables and fruits are eaten the year round. Potatoes are the main food of the poorest class; they are very cheap and many varieties are grown.

T ypical F ood M aterials Meats—beef, chicken, fish, lamb, pork. Vegetables—cabbage, celery, garlic, lettuce, onions, pep­ pers, pinto beans, string beans, tomatoes. Fruits—apples, alligator pears, bananas, figs, grapefruit, mangoes, oranges. Fats—lard, olive oil. Cereals—corn meal, rice, sago, wheat. Nuts—almonds, corozo, English walnuts, hazel nuts, pine nuts, pistachio nuts. Milk—cow’s milk. Cheese—made from goat’s milk and cow’s milk.

M ethods of P reparation Meats—boiled, broiled, roasted. Vegetables—boiled. Cereals—gruel with water; tortillas.

For this introduction the author is indebted to Georgina Larsen. 47 48 Old World Foods for New World Families

M e n u s

BREAKFAST Coffee Bread Milk

DINNER Sopa de Macarron Pescado a la Vera Cruz Chiles Rellenos Frijoles Forrejas

SUPPER Frijoles Tortillas Coffee Milk

R ecipes

SOPA DE MACARRON To one tablespoonful of melted lard add one-fourth of a pound of ground round steak, one-half pound of pork sausage, three chopped onions, one quart of tomatoes, and a pound of macaroni which has been cooked until tender. Heat thoroughly and sprinkle ground Parmesan cheese and chopped parsley on top. Sopa de Macarron is served as a soup, but it is very thick.

PESCADO A LA VERA CRUZ To one cupful of olive oil add three chopped onions, one can of tomatoes, two cloves of garlic, and a little finely chopped parsley, and cook thoroughly. Add six medium-sized slices of halibut and a few stuffed olives and cook until the halibut is tender. Mexico 49

CHILES EN FRIO (Salad green peppers) Broil green peppers. Remove the outside skin and the seeds and stuff the peppers with a mixture of sardines, chopped onions, and fresh tomatoes, seasoned with salt, pepper, and oil. Serve whole on a lettuce leaf, garnishing with sliced onions and tomatoes.

FORREJAS To three cupfuls of water add two cupfuls of sugar and a few sticks of cinnamon and boil until a thick syrup is secured. Beat separately the whites and yolks of four eggs, combine, and add two tablespoonfuls of flour. Dip eight or ten pieces of zwieback in the egg mixture, fry in fat until brown, remove, and drop into the hot syrup. When all the zwieback has been placed in the syrup cover the pieces with chopped almonds and seedless raisins. There is a story that the first woman to see a baby’s first tooth prepares forrejas for the baby’s family. In Spain this dessert is always served on Christmas night.

CHILES RELLENOS (Stuffed peppers) Brown in fat one-half pound of pork and one-half pound of beef cut in small pieces, adding chopped garlic, onion, raw tomato, chili, and salt and pepper to taste. Cook until the meat is tender. Add one-half cupful of pine nuts, raisins, and sweet almonds. Remove the skin and seeds from green peppers, holding them over the flame to loosen the skin. Fill with the meat mixture, roll first in flour, then in beaten egg, and brown in fat.

FRIJOLES Wash two pounds or two pints of kidney beans and cover with cold water. Cook until tender, season with chopped onion, and mash into a fine pulp. Add melted lard and beat thoroughly. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese and serve. 50 Old World Foods for New World Families

TORTILLAS * The meal is made from ripe com which has been boiled in lye from wood ashes or a little lime until the skin is loosened. It is then ground in a mortar or on a metate (a flat stone raised at one end), the grinding being done with a stone rolling pin. A very good substitute, however, is our Indian meal. Mix the meal with hot water to a stiff paste, add a little salt, pat the paste into flat cakes, and bake on a griddle, a soapstone one being much better than iron. Tortillas are seldom eaten alone, being the basis for many other Spanish and Mexican dishes, but they are very nice eaten in place of our hot cakes, with butter and honey or maple syrup.

* This recipe is quoted from Recipes from Many Nations with the per­ mission of The Woman's Home Companion. ROUMANIA *

The Roumanian dinner is begun with a delicious soup, made either from chicken or from a great variety of vegetables. When the soup is clear very fine homemade noodles—the breadth of a single hair—are served with it. Some soups are made entirely from small meat balls made of ground beefsteak, rice, and finely chopped onions. This ciorba, as it is called, is finally made sour by adding lemon juice and beaten egg yolks. It is almost a meal in itself. To turn to the main dishes—stews, which contain all the strength and mineral matters of the meat and vegetables used, form the largest part of the Roumanian meal. There are many varieties of stews; each has a name, but the general term is tocantt. Roasts of chicken, leg of lamb, beef, pork, and veal are used a good deal, but they are not so common as stews. The Roumanian likes his meats combined with vegetables and the natural sauces resulting from slow cooking over a small flame. It may be added that all Roumanian dishes require a good deal of time and preparation. The Roumanian does not like plain boiled vegetables: he must have them combined with a sauce, tomatoes, and onions. Perhaps the most favored dish is sarma—chopped meat rolled in cabbage leaves or stuffed cabbage. Usually a pickled head of cabbage is used, giving the dish a slightly acid taste. Cream is sometimes poured over the sarma on the serving platter. Bread made from the whole wheat kernel freshly ground and finely sifted and a corn bread made from freshly ground corn are much more common than bread made from refined white flour. Perhaps this accounts in part for the strong, clean teeth of the Roumanians, who in many instances live to old age without having a single tooth decay, and without continual visits to the dentist. For desserts fresh fruits are served if there is nothing else: in the winter time apples, prunes, apricots, peaches, and raisins, sun dried at home and kept in a clean, dry attic, are served. How-

* For this introduction the author is indebted to Magdalene Coury Dinu. 51 52 Old World Foods for New World Families ever, the Roumanian diet is rich in pastries, made of milk, cream, and butter, nuts, fruits, and homemade preserves; eggs are used in­ stead of baking powder. Vegetables and natural food products are preferred to highly refined, canned products. Refrigeration is unknown: all foods are obtained fresh or if kept for the winter are either sun dried or smoked.

T ypical F ood M aterials Meats—chicken, duck, lamb, pork. Vegetables—cabbage, cucumbers, dried butter beans, eggplant, green peppers, onions, potatoes, sauer­ kraut (whole cabbage), tomatoes, winter squash. Fruits—apricots, cherries, peaches, pears, prunes (fresh or dried). Fats—butter, lard, olive oil. Cheese—made of goat’s milk. Cereals—farina, rice, yellow corn meal. Nuts—almonds, English walnuts, hazel nuts.

M etho ds of P reparation Meats—baked in oven with vegetables, broiled. Vegetables—baked, boiled. Cereals—cooked in milk or water.

C haracteristic D is h e s Ghiveci Sarma Mamaliga Clatita

M e n u s

BREAKFAST Raised rolls Boiled eggs Coffee Roumania 53

DINNER Clear soup Tocaria (chicken stew with cream) or Sarma (stuffed cabbage) Mamaliga Clatita

SUNDAY DINNER (or dinner for guests) Soupa de Gaina (chicken soup with vegetables) Fupturn da Rata (roast duck with dressing) Ghiveci Pepper salad Dobas Torta Fruit Coffee

SUPPER Cold meat or cured meat Potatoes Salad (green vegetables) Black bread (rye)

R ecipes

SOUPA DE GAINA (Chicken soup with vegetables) Cook chicken in water until tender, then add carrots cut in two, diced potatoes, peeled onion, celery or celery root, straight leaf parsley, and a few leaves of chopped cabbage. Cook slowly for two hours, strain, and serve. 54 Old World Foods for New World Families

FRIPTURA DA RATA (Roast duck with dressing) Make a dressing as follows: Soak pieces of stale bread in hot milk, squeezing out the milk slightly. Add chopped onions and chopped duck liver browned in fat. Stuff the duck with this dress­ ing and roast. TOCANA (Chicken stew with cream) Brown two onions in four tablespoonfuls of lard, add pieces of chicken, brown, and then add a little water. Season with salt, paprika, and pepper, and cook until tender. Add chopped parsley leaves and a sauce made by cooking together one tablespoonful of flour and one cupful of sweet cream.

PEPPER SALAD Broil peppers and remove the outside skin. Cover with a dress­ ing made of vinegar, salt, pepper, and olive oil.

GHIVECI Mix together equal parts of diced or chopped cabbage, carrots, sweet corn, green beans, okra, eggplant, parsley root, onions, and tomatoes (fresh or canned), and one potato. Season with salt and pepper and add a little water and one cup of olive oil. Cover and bake in an oven for about one hour. This recipe is used by the Bulgarians also.

SARMA (Stuffed cabbage) Brown one sliced onion in hot lard, add one-half pound of ground salt pork and one pound of ground fresh pork and season. When partially cooked remove from the fire and add one cup of raw rice and two well-beaten eggs. Place a small amount of the mixture on sauerkraut leaves (sauerkraut is made of whole cabbage leaves in Roumania) or on cabbage leaves blanched in hot water. Fold over the edges. Place a layer of chopped kraut or chopped cabbage in the bottom of a kettle, then the sarma, then more kraut Roumania 55 or chopped cabbage. Add a small amount of water and cook at least one hour. MUSACA Peel and slice three large eggplants in thick slices. Sprinkle with salt and let stand about an hour. Drain off the water and brown the eggplant in hot butter or fat. To four large onions chopped finely and cooked slowly (not browned) in fat, add three pounds of ground beef seasoned with salt and pepper, and cook together. Place alternate layers of the eggplant and meat mixture in a baking dish, pour over one quart of cooked tomatoes, dot generously with butter, and bake for two hours. Serve hot.

CLATITA To one cupful of milk and one cupful of water add eight or ten heaping tablespoonfuls of flour, beating thoroughly to make a pour batter. Add one egg, one-fourth teaspoonful of salt, and one tablespoonful of sugar. Fry as pancakes, spread canned cherries or grated cheese over the cakes, and roll. Ctittitdi is served as a dessert. DOBAS TORTA To ten tablespoonfuls of sugar add gradually ten egg yolks, beating thoroughly. Add ten tablespoonfuls of flour and three drops of vanilla. Fold into the mixture ten egg whites beaten as stiffly as possible. Bake in eight layers. To one pound of butter creamed for five minutes add two cupfuls of powdered sugar. Boil one- fourth pound of cocoa with one-half cupful of milk, add the butter and sugar, and stir until smooth. Make up the cake with alternat­ ing layers of cake and filling, placing a layer of cake on the top. Melt one-half cupful of sugar and when light brown spread on the top layer of the cake. Quickly mark into fourteen sections. Cover the outside of the cake with the cocoa filling. R U SSIA *

In Russia one finds the same kinds of food materials as in other countries, but some of it is prepared differently and it is usually more highly seasoned. In describing the dishes peculiar to the country before the Revolution one must consider those of the upper classes and those of the peasants. Since the peasants live in the country, vegetables predominate in their diet. They seldom have meat, but when they do it is usually pork, since they all raise hogs and know how to cure the meat. Bacon and homemade sausage are favorite pork products of the peasants of South Russia. Borsch, however—beet or vege­ table soup—is the traditional dish. It is eaten in all parts of Russia, but the southerner knows how to prepare it best. If one should ask a peasant what he liked to eat he would surely answer, salo (salt pork) and borsch. The peasants use a good deal of both sweet and sour milk, and also fish in great quantities as a substi­ tute for meat. No sweets other than fruits are found in their diet. From early days the upper classes followed foreign styles of cooking—especially the French. At their tables one would for­ merly find the best of everything in the way of meats, pastries, and salads. They did not consider the cost of food; their main idea was to have good food well prepared, and plenty of it. Much attention was given to fowl and game. The only truly Russian dishes the upper classes clung to were sucklings stuffed with kasha (buck­ wheat kernels) and various kinds of pirozsky (meat baked in a rich crust). Still another characteristically Russian dish is the special Easter dish called sirnaya paska. It is made of eggs, cottage cheese, sugar, and a few raisins. No doubt the food habits of the former rich have changed since the Revolution, but the typical dishes of the country will always be relished by Russians everywhere.

* For this introduction the author is indebted to Anna Terletsky Chaly. 56 Russia 57

T y p ic a l F ood M a t e r ia l s Meats—beef, chicken, fish, lamb, pork, shellfish, wild game. Vegetables—beets, brussels sprouts, cabbage (red and white), carrots, cucumbers, cucumber pickled (dill), lettuce, mushrooms (fresh and dried), onions, pars­ nips, potatoes, sauerkraut, spinach, tomatoes. Fruits—apples, apricots, berries, cherries, cranberries, grapes, lemons, melons, oranges, plums, ripe olives. Fats—butter, lard. Cereals—buckwheat, com, wheat. Nuts—English walnuts, hazel nuts.

M e t h o d s o f P r e p a r a t io n Meats—roasted, stewed. Vegetables—baked with meat, boiled. Fruits—fresh, dried, pickled. Cereals—cooked in milk for children.

M e n u s BREAKFAST Bacon and egg or Sausage Bread Coffee or tea

DINNER Borsch Veal cutlets with sour cream Green peas and carrots White or brown bread Salad of cucumbers, radishes, lettuce Compote of cooked fruit

TEA Tea or chocolate Preserves Cake 58 Old World Foods jor New World Families

SUPPER Barley soup Fish with egg sauce or Cold meats with horseradish sauce Russian cream

R e c ip e s

b o r s c h (Beet soup) Cook slowly in water for two or three hours one pound of spare ribs, two bunches of beets sliced thin, and one-half cupful of chopped parsley. Add a small amount of the soup to one-half pint of sour cream, mixing slowly, then add this mixture to the borsch.

VEGETABLE BORSCH 1 pound beef soup bone 2 medium-sized onions chopped fine 1 head of cabbage 1 pound or 1 small can tomatoes Salt to season Place the ingredients in a kettle and cover with water. Cover and cook slowly for two hours. Add two or three medium-sized potatoes, about half a bunch of parsley, and six or seven leaves of mint. Before serving add lemon juice to taste or garnish with thick sour cream.

PIROZSKY Cream one-fourth of a pound or one-half of a cupful of butter, adding gradually one-half cupful of sour cream and one well- beaten egg. Add enough flour to make a dough of the consistency of pie crust, roll the dough out in a one-fourth-inch sheet, and cut into three-inch squares. Place a small portion of Mixture One or Two on each square, and fold once to make a triangle. Pinch the edges of the pastry so that it will hold the mixture, brush the top with beaten egg yolk, and bake in a hot oven for twenty-five or thirty minutes. Pirozsky are served with soup or as sandwiches with coffee or tea. Russia 59

Mixture One Brown one finely chopped onion in butter, add about one-half of a pound of finely ground beef or veal, and brown slightly.

Mixture Two To one finely chopped onion browned in butter add one-half cupful of chopped mushrooms, either canned or dried (if dried, soak first in water). Add this mixture to one cupful of cooked rice and season. FRICADELKI (Soup with meat balls) 2 pounds soup meat Parsley 3 potatoes 1 onion 3 carrots Small bunch of celery £ pound ground round steak Pepper Add cold water to the soup meat and cook slowly for one hour or until tender. Add the vegetables. Season the steak with onion juice, salt, and pepper, and make into balls the size of a cherry. Roll in flour and boil in water over a slow fire for fifteen minutes, add to the soup, and serve.

PERLOVY KRUP (Barley soup) Cook two cupfuls of barley in two quarts of meat stock until tender. Add a quarter of a pound of dried mushrooms which have been soaked and cut into small pieces. Just before serving add two egg yolks mixed with one cupful of sour cream.

GOLUBTZEE 1 pound ground round steak 1 head of cabbage 1 cupful rice 1 medium-sized onion,ground 1 can tomatoes J pound butter 1 egg Boil the rice for five minutes, wash twice in cold water, and mix with the steak and onion. Add three tablespoonfuls of melted butter, the egg, salt and pepper, and half a cupful of strained 5 60 Old World Foods jor New World Families tomatoes. After cutting out the center core, boil the head of cabbage five minutes in salted water, separate the leaves, cut out the hard centers, and sprinkle with salt. Place a heaping table­ spoonful of the meat and rice mixture on each cabbage leaf, wrap together, and fasten with a toothpick. The recipe will make about eight golubtzee. Brown the golubtzee in butter, place in a baking dish, and pour over them a tomato sauce made of the rest of the tomatoes and salt and sugar to taste. Bake for half an hour covered, then for half an hour uncovered.

BETTCKE SMETANA (Veal cutlets with sour cream) 4 slices dry white bread 1 pound ground veal i cupful milk 1 small onion 3 eggs Pour the milk over the bread, squeeze the bread lightly, and place in a mixing bowl. Add the eggs and beat until the mixture is smooth. Add the onion after it has been cut in small pieces and sauted in butter. Add the ground veal and mix thoroughly. Mold into croquettes, roll in bread or cracker crumbs, and saute in butter until evenly browned. Place in a baking dish and pour sour cream sauce over the meat. Bake about one-half hour.

SMETANA (Sour cream sauce) Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter, remove from the fire, and add two tablespoonfuls of flour. Gradually add one cupful of thick sour cream. Cook slowly until thick.

TSCHE 1 medium-sized cabbage 2 onions \ cupful meat stock 2 leeks 2 pounds beef brisket 1 parsnip 3 pints water i cupful sour cream 1 tablespoonful flour Salt Cut the cabbage in pieces and heat in fat. Add the stock and turn the cabbage over and over until all of it is moistened. Cut the beef in cubes, add to the cabbage with the water, and cook one and Russia 61 one-half hours. Add the onions and leeks sliced and the parsnips diced and cook until these vegetables are tender. Add the sour cream mixed with the flour, let cook five minutes, and season to taste. Serve hot. Small buckwheat cakes may be served with the tsche if desired.

FISH Boil three pounds of fresh salmon in water until tender. Remove the fat from the broth. To one cupful of the broth add one-half cupful of butter and four hard-cooked eggs. Pour over the fish. Garnish the fish with cooked potatoes, green peas, and dried beets.

VEGETABLE CAVIAR Green parsley 2 onions 1 pound tomatoes 3 tablespoonfuls olive oil or Wesson oil 1 eggplant Salt and pepper to taste Bake the eggplant till quite soft, peel, and chop very fine. To two onions chopped fine and browned slightly in olive oil add the chopped tomatoes and fry until thick. Add the eggplant and finely minced parsley, season with salt and pepper, and cook together about twenty minutes. Serve cold as vegetable butter.

KISEL To one quart of fresh raspberries add one quart of water, cook for about five minutes, and put through a sieve. Add one cupful of sugar and one-half cupful of potato or corn flour, or cornstarch. Boil until thick, pour into a mold, chill, and serve with cream.

SIRNAYA PASKA (Russian cheese pudding) Put the yolks of four hard-cooked eggsi and one pint of cottage cheese through a fine sieve. Beat thoroughly. Cream thoroughly three egg yolks and one cupful of sugar, add one-fourth cupful of melted butter, and beat well. Fold in one-half teaspoonful of vanilla and two heaping tablespoonfuls of flour and add one-half cupful of raisins. Fold in three stiffly beaten egg whites. Pour into a casserole and bake in a slow oven for thirty-five to forty-five minutes. 62 Old World Foods for New World Families

RUSSIAN CREAM To one-half pint of sweet cream add three-fourths of a cupful of sugar and heat in the top of a double boiler until lukewarm. Add one and one-half teaspoonfuls of gelatin which has been soaked in one-half of a cupful of cold water. When the gelatin and sugar are dissolved, remove the mixture from the fire and cool. When it begins to thicken fold in one-half pint of sour cream which has been beaten until smooth, beat the mixture, add one teaspoon­ ful of vanilla, and pour into molds to set. Serve with a sauce made of cranberries or raspberries.

MOSCOW SAUCE Cook for about five minutes one-half cupful of sugar and one cupful of water. Add one cupful of cranberries and cook until they are soft. Peel whole one apple cored with a corer, cut into about ten rings, place the rings in the cranberry sauce, and cook until they are clear. Cool, garnish with chopped walnuts, and serve. SY RIA *

The Syrian housewife spends most of her time preparing the daily meals; the food requires much time for preparation and careful watching during the cooking process. The Syrian people eat a good deal of rice and bourlgour, or cracked wheat, and generally judge the skill of the housewife by the way she cooks rice; if she is skillful each kernel keeps its form after it is cooked. Lamb is the chief meat and the Syrians are particularly fond of it in barbecued style. There is little pork and most Syrians do not know what it is before they come to America. The national dish, kebi, is made from meat and ground wheat. Many vegetables and large amounts of pure olive oil and butter are used. Foods are seasoned with spices. The favorite desserts of the Syrians are fruit, baklava, mamoul, kenafi, and buema. Turkish coffee, or giaour, as the Arabs call it, is the favorite beverage of both Syrians and Arabs. It is a custom to serve Turkish coffee and Turkish delight to one’s guests, as an American would serve tea.

T y p ic a l F ood M a t e r ia l s Meats—beef, chicken, duck, goose, lamb. Vegetables—chick peas, cucumbers, eggplant, garlic, horse beans, okra, onions, potatoes, squash, swiss chard, tomatoes. Fruits—apples, dates, figs, grapes, olives (green and black, pickled and salted), pomegranates, watermelon. Cereals—rice, wheat (whole or cracked). Nuts—chestnuts, hazel nuts, pine cone seeds (pignalia), pistachio nuts, salted pumpkin seeds.

M e t h o d s o f P r e p a r a t io n Meats—lamb is cut in small pieces and roasted on skewers or boiled.

* For this introduction the author is indebted to Marefe Shahly. 63 64 Old World Foods jor New World Families

Vegetables—fried in olive oil or other fat and then boiled; green-leafed vegetables are not used in cream soups but are cooked in a meat stock called bosdis. Cereals—wheat, or bourlgour, is boiled and then spread out on great sheets of cloth to dry in the sun, and finally is ground to different degrees of fineness. Rice is cooked in milk or water; when nearly done more milk is added for the last few minutes of cooking. Nuts—often used with rice and meal. Fats—a large amount of fat is used in the preparation of foods; butter is not eaten on bread.

CHARACTERISTIC DISHES Leban, or curdled milk Kebi Yahni

M e n u s

BREAKFAST Black olives Cheese Syrian bread Honey Coffee

DINNER Kebi Vegetable salad (parsley, cucumbers, green onions, lettuce, olive oil, lemon, and sea­ sonings) Syrian bread Ripe olives Kenafi

SUPPER Baked eggplant Syrian bread Rice Ripe olives Grapes or pomegranates Syria 65

R e c ip e s

k e b i Mix together one pound of ground lamb and one pound of fine bourlgour and knead thoroughly, adding a small amount of water. Prepare a second mixture of chopped cooked meat, chopped onions seared in fat, and pignalia or pine nuts, seasoned with salt and pepper. Place a layer of the first mixture in a baking dish, then a layer of the second mixture, and finally a layer of the lamb and wheat mixture. Cut into diamond-shaped pieces and cover with butter or olive oil. Bake in a moderate oven for about one hour.

OKRA W ITH MEAT Boil two pounds of lamb shoulder until tender. Boil one-half pound of dried okra in hot water for twenty minutes, brown in butter, and add chopped parsley and minced garlic. Add one cup­ ful of tomato paste, one-half cupful of hot water, two cupfuls of meat broth, and the cooked meat cut into small slices. Add a little lemon juice and serve hot. Okra with meat is always served with rice. String beans may be substituted for the okra.

BAKED EGGPLANT Place slices of eggplant in salted water, dry between towels, and brown in olive oil. Place alternate layers of the browned eggplant and ground round steak in a baking dish, season, cover with a can of tomatoes, and bake slowly for at least an hour.

RIZ A LA JAJE Cut a chicken into pieces, cover with water, add one onion sliced and browned in fat, and cook until tender. Cover two cupfuls of rice with boiling water and let it stand for one hour, pour off the water, and wash the rice twice in cold water. Put the rice into the boiling chicken stock, salt to taste, and boil until the rice is well cooked. 66 Old World Foods for New World Families

GRAPE LEAF ROLLS 1 pound ground meat Pepper \ pound rice Cinnamon 1 tablespoonful butter Water Salt Grape leaves or cabbage leaves Mix the ground meat, rice, and seasonings, and place one table­ spoonful of the mixture on each grape leaf or cabbage leaf (if cabbage leaves are used they should be parboiled for a few minutes and the hard ribs of the leaves should be cut off). Wrap the edges of the leaf together and make into a roll about one-half inch in diameter. Pack the rolls carefully in a large kettle and add one can of tomatoes and enough water to cover. Cook slowly for about thirty minutes. Potatoes, squash, or eggplant may have holes scooped in them for the rice and meat mixture, before cooking. Syrians have a special tool for making these holes.

MAJADRA 1 cupful lentils Olive oil 1 cupful bourlgour or rice 2 teaspoonfuls salt 1 onion 4 cupfuls water Wash and boil the lentils until almost tender, add the bourlgour, and cook over a slow fire for twenty minutes. Fry the onion in olive oil and add to the lentils and bourlgour. Green onions, or leban, are often served with this dish.

KROWSH (Stuffed tripe) Wash lamb tripe thoroughly, cut into pieces, and sew in bag­ like pieces. Stuff with rice and chopped lamb and season. Boil for one hour or until the skin is tender.

KENAFI Soak shredded wheat biscuit in milk until quite soft, take out the inside portion, and stuff the biscuit with a mixture of chopped nuts and granulated sugar. Place in a buttered pan with a piece of butter on top of each biscuit and bake for about one-half hour. Syria 67

Syrians in this country use the shredded wheat biscuit on the market as a substitute for a similar product used in Syria.

MAMOUL (Pastry) To one box of Cream of Wheat add one pound of melted butter and one cupful of flour and mix thoroughly. Add about three- fourths of a cupful of milk, or enough to permit making the mixture into balls. Make a hole in the center of each ball and fill with chopped nuts. Roll into a ball again, flatten slightly and bake in a moderate oven for about one-half hour. Roll in powdered sugar and serve. A SELECTED LIST OF REFERENCES ON THE HISTORY, SOCIAL LIFE, AND CUSTOMS OF THE COUNTRIES CONSIDERED IN THE HANDBOOK *

A r m e n i a Bank, Edgar James. An Armenian Princess. Boston: Richard Badger, The Gorham Press, 1914. “ The Land of the Stalking Death.” National Geographic Maga­ zine, October, 1915.

B u l g a r ia Bulgaria and Romania (Nations of Today). New York: Hough­ ton Mifflin Co., 1924. One of a series which is undertaken “ to provide for the ordinary citizen a popular account of the history of his own and other nations, a chronicle of those movements of the past...... ” Christowe, Stoyan. “ Bulgaria’s Singing Countryside.” Travel, 51: 23-25, 44, October, 1928. ------. “ Market Day in Bulgaria’s Capitol.” Travel, 50 : 29- 31, 50, April, 1928. Garnett, Lucy M. J. Balkan Home-Life. New York: Dodd, Mead & Co., 1927. Covers the home life and customs of the Albanians, Greeks, Bul­ garians, and others. Monroe, Will S. Bulgaria and Her People. Boston: L. C. Page & Co., 1914. Covers geography, history, and description of Bulgaria and its people.

C r o a t ia Berlic-Mazuranic, Ivan. Croatian Tales of Long Ago. London: George Allen and Unwin, 1924.

* The greater part of this list of references was compiled by the staff of the Detroit Public Library, to whom the author is glad to express her appreciation. 68 References 69

Brown, Kenneth S. (American consul at Belgrade.) The King­ dom of the Serbs, Croats and Slovenes. Washington: U. S. Gov­ ernment Printing Office, 1928. Hornby, Lester G. Balkan Sketches. Boston: Little, Brown & Co., 1926.

F i n l a n d Finnish-American Family Cookbook. Milwaukee: C. N. Caspar Co., 1920. Finland, the Land of a Thousand Lakes. London: Chapman and Hall, 1912. Fox, Frank. Finland Today. New York: The Macmillan Co., 1926. Kalevala. The national epic. Van Cleef, Eugene. Finland, the Republic Farthest North. Columbus: The Ohio University Press, 1929. Walter, L. Edna. Finland and the Tundra. New York: The Macmillan Co., 1917.

G r e e c e Brown, Ashley. Greece, Old and New. New York: Dodd, Mead & Co., 1927. “A description of modern Greece set against the background of the past. Making his approach by way of Athens, the author visits Corinth, Sparta, Delphi, Salonica and Corfu, and closes his book with chapters on the Greek national character.” Franck, Harry A. I Discover Greece. New York: The Century Co., 1929. “An indefatigable world traveller discovers Greece and makes his usual bookful of meticulous observation and accurate information, in­ formally written down, and amply illustrated.” ------. “ The Modern Greek at Home.” Travel, 52: 12-16, 50-51, February, 1929. Miller, William. Greece (Modern World Series). New York: Charles Scribner's Sons, 1928. “ Dr. Miller presents a rounded picture of modern Greece in all its ac­ tivities, political, social, cultural, industrial.” Moses, George H. “ Greece of Today.” National Geographic Magazine, 28: 295-329, October, 1915. 70 Old World Foods jor New World Families

H u n g a r y Bovill, W. B. F. Hungary and the Hungarians. Chicago: McClurg & Co., 1908. Interesting and well written. Chater, Melville. “ The Danube, Highway of Races.” National Geographic Magazine, 56: 643-697, December, 1929. Hannay, James 0. Wayfarer in Hungary. New York: E. P. Dutton & Co., 1925. “ Sympathetic, detailed observations on post-war Hungary, by the well-known Irish novelist who spent the greater part of two years as Chaplain to the British community in Budapest.” Teleki, Pal, Count. Evolution of Hungary and Its Place in European History. New York: The Macmillan Co., 1923. “ Count Teleki, at one time premier of Hungary, speaks authorita­ tively of the changes in Hungary’s political status as well as the social and economic trend,” and discusses as well Hungary’s geography and history, with its economic and political development. Townley-Fullam, C. “ Hungary: A Land of Shepherd Kings.” National Geographic Magazine, 26: 311-393, October, 1914.

I t a l y Coote, Colin R. Italian Town and Country Life. New York: Brentano’s, 1925. “ Not a guide book but discriminating observations on modern Italian life and character.” Villari, Luigi. Italy (Modern World Series). New York: Charles Scribner’s Sons, 1929. “ Covers Italian history from the time of the Napoleonic wars to the present day, but with two-thirds of the space devoted to post-war de­ velopments. The author is a frank defender of the Fascist regime.” Vincent, E. R. P. Italy of the Italians. New York: E. P. Dutton & Co., 1927. “ Besides helping us to see the exquisiteness of the Italian scene, the author seems to understand the Italian temperament rather well.”

M e x ic o Gruening, Ernest H. Mexico and Its Heritage. New York: The Century Co., 1928. “ It embraces in its scope the political, social, economic and cultural history of Mexico, together with the vexatious problems of the present.” References 71

Quinn, Vernon. Beautiful Mexico: Its Story, Legends and Scenic Charm. New York: Frederick A. Stokes Co., 1924. “ Rare is the single volume on Mexico which is at once so widely in­ formative and so gracefully written as this. This book is a history, nar­ rated with a background of legend and scenery. Showaiter, W. J. “ Mexico and the Mexicans.” National Geo­ graphic Magazine, 25: 471-493, May, 1914. The same issue of the Rational Geographic contains an article entitled “A Mexican Hacienda,” by J. E. Kirkwood, pages 563-584. Thompson, Wallace. The People of Mexico, Who They Are and How They Live. New York: Harper & Brothers, 1921. Emphasizes the characteristics and social life and customs of the people. Winter, N. 0. Mexico and Her People of Today. Boston: L. C. Page & Co., new revised edition, 1923. “An account of the customs, characteristics, amusements, history, and advancement of the Mexicans and the development and resources of their country.”

R o u m a n i a Bibesco, Princess M. L. Isvor. New York: Frederick A. Stokes Co., 1924. ------. Roumania Yesterday and Today. New York: D. Appleton & Co., 1930. Marie, Queen of Roumania. My Country. London: Hodder and Stoughton, 1916.

R u s s i a Chamberlin, William H. Soviet Russia. Boston: Little, Brown & Co., 1930. “ Combines an impartial interpretation of what has happened there during the transition from tsarism to communism with an open-minded curiosity as to future developments. The author sketches the histori­ cal background of the Revolution and its personalities, and discusses the social leveling, cultural and religious questions and the woman movement.” Hindus, Maurice G. Humanity Uprooted. New York: Jonathan Cape and Harrison Smith, 1929. This book, together with the author’s Broken Earth (1926), gives a sympathetic study of the Russian peasant and his present manner of life. 72 Old World Foods for New World Families

Pares, Sir Bernard. History of Russia. New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1928 (new and revised edition). Covers the history of Russia from prehistoric times up to 1928. Thompson, Dorothy (Mrs. Sinclair Lewis). New Russia. New York: Henry Holt & Co., 1928. An interesting survey of “ all phases of life in the new Russia—eco­ nomic, cultural, social—written by a keen, intelligent observer.” Wiener, Leo. Interpretation of the Russian People. New York: Robert M. McBride & Co., 1915. “ The book is a skillful analysis of the determining influences in Russian music and literature, and in the religious and political thought of the country.” Wood, Junius B. “ The Far Eastern Republic.” National Geo­ graphic Magazine, 41: 565-592, June, 1922.

S y r ia Bell, Gertrude L. Syria Desert and Sown. New York: E. P. Dutton & Co., 1907. Haddad, George. Mount Lebanon to Vermont. Rutland, Ver­ mont: Tuttle Publishing Co., 1916. Hamilton, N. R. Both Sides of the Jordan. New York: Dodd, Mead & Co., 1929. Hitti, Philip K. Syrians in America. New York: Doubleday, Doran & Co., 1924. Rihbany, Abraham Metri. A Far Journey. New York: Hough­ ton Mifflin Co., 1916. Stein, L. J. Syria. New York: Greenberg, Publisher, Inc., 1926. INDEX Almond cakes, 32 Fish, baked, 31 Armenia, 3-10, 68 Fish, fresh salmon, 61 Fish soup, 26 Berry pudding, 28 Forrejas, 49 Bettcke smetana, 60 Fricadelki, 59 Borsch, 58 Frijoles, 49 Bourlgour pilaf, 10 Friptura da rata, 54 Bulgaria, 11-13, 68 Frittura mist a, 44 Butter cakes, 40 Fruit soup, 28

Cabbage soup, 25 Garlic sauce, 31 Cherry sauce, 37 Ghiveci, 54 Chicken soup, 15 Gnocchi alia Romana, 44 Chiles en frio, 49 Golubtzee, 59 Chiles rellenos, 49 Govedska juha, 15 Chorbas keofteta, 12 Grape leaf rolls, 66 Clatita, 55 Greece, 29-32, 69 Cornish pasties, 21 Gris koh, 17 Cream filling, 46 Gulyas, 38 Croatia, 14-17, 68 Croatian sarma, 16 Haiver sin patladjan, 13 Csirke paprikas, 38 Halva, 31 Delicious nut cake, 28 Hungary, 33-40, 70 Dinstani kupus, 16 Dobas torta, 55 Italian spaghetti, 45 Dolma, 7 Italy, 41-46, 70 Dressed tripe, 20 Kabourgha, 8 Eggplant alia Parmesan, 45 Kami yarik, 8 Eggplant, baked, 65 Kebi, 65 Endive salad, 44 Kenafi, 66 England, 18-22 Keshkeg, 9 Farina dumplings, 37 Kisel, 61 Filana paprika, 16 Krowsh, 66 Finland, 23-28, 69 Finnish salad, 27 Lamb stew with dill sauce, 27 Finnish salmon loaf, 26 Lakvaros pite, 40 73 74 Index

Lentil soup, 20 Retes teszta, 39 Liver loaf, 26 Rice milk, 25 Risotto, 43 Macaroni with gravy, 44 Risotto in branco, 45 Maj gombocz, 37 Riz a la jaje, 65 Majadra, 66 Rizogalo, 32 Mamoul, 67 Roast veal, 16 Marha hus leves metelttel vagy Roumania, 51-55, 71 gomboccal, 36 Round or finger rolls, 22 Matzoon, 9 Russia, 56-62, 71 Meat and potato balls, 8 Russian cream, 62 Meat balls, 31 Meat with horseradish sauce, 26 Salada praz, 13 Medo sape, 17 Saria bourma, 10 Mexico, 47-50, 70 Sarma, 8, 54 Mosaic cake, 46 Scones, 22 Moscow sauce, 62 Shortbread, 22 Musaca, 55 Sirnaya paska, 61 Sladka eahnia, 13 Od voca, 17 Smetana, 60 Okra with meat, 65 Sopa de macarron, 48 Soup dumplings, 26 Palacsinta, 39 Soupa de gaina, 53 Paradicsomos kaposzta, 38 Spinach, 44 Pastry with cheese, 10 Stuffed eggplant, 32 Paszuly leves, 37 Syria, 63-67, 72 Patlijan silkmeh, 9 Pepper salad, 54 Theples, 32 Perlovy krup, 59 Toad in the hole, 21 Pescado a la Vera Cruz, 48 Tocana, 54 Pilaf, 9 Toorli giovetch, 13 Pileci gulas sa kiselim nhrnem, 16 Tortillas, 50 Pirozsky, 58 Tsche, 60 Pita, 17 Veal birds, 44 Porkolt, 38 Vegetable borsch, 58 Vegetable caviar, 61 Rabbit pie, 21 Rachel, .13 Yahni, 9, 32 Rakott krumpli, 38 Yorkshire pudding, 22 Ravanie, 32 References, 68-72 Zeleni orbas sa kiselim nhrnem, 17 C, O O K t c v/ l