BY CAROLYN DORIS

pg 22 05.18 • www.ift.org © kone/iStock/Thinkstock, © rvlsoft/iStock/Thinkstock. Image illustration Leslie Pappas

Complex, realistic analogs with simple, unique flavor formulations offer an increasingly sophisticated array of options for consumers seeking meat-free alternatives.

nce the world’s wealthiest person, billion- Maple Leaf previously purchased Lightlife Foods, a aire Bill Gates now spends much of his time producer of meatless hotdogs, chicken, and other and money trying to make the planet a bet- products, for $140 million in early 2017 (Maple ter place—by helping to eradicate diseases such as Leaf Foods 2017). malaria and polio in Africa, attempting to improve Globally, the meat substitutes market is esti- educational standards in the United States, and, mated at $4.6 billion in 2018 and forecast to reach more recently, personally investing in competing $6.4 billion by 2023, according to Marketsand- plant-based meat alternative companies Beyond Markets (MarketsandMarkets 2018). Meat and Impossible Foods as well as in egg substi- Not surprisingly, Dirk Leister, the Germany- tute developer Hampton Creek. based technical marketing manager for Thermo As he makes clear in his blog, GatesNotes, Gates Fisher Scientific, reports a substantial increase in remains an omnivore and his goal is not to persuade interest in this company’s benchtop laboratory-scale people to become vegan. Rather, he hopes individu- extruders used in the research and development als in wealthy countries such as the United States phase of creating plant-based meat and poultry ana- will reduce their meat consumption for environ- logs. “We have a lot of universities and companies mental reasons to ensure that there will be enough approaching us,” he says. “People who are in the animal- and plant-based protein to feed a global R&D stage don’t want to use too much of the mate- population the United Nations projects will reach rials, and they like to do a lot of trials and try 9.8 billion by 2050 (Gates 2015). different recipes without wasting too much time.” While Gates believes that improving the avail- Given the data released in the past few years by ability and verisimilitude of plant-based animal several market research firms, it’s no wonder that product analogs will help feed the planet, other interest in plant-based protein is surging. In a 2017 investors in meat, seafood, and dairy alternatives— global consumer study, The Nielsen Co. found that including the U.S. and Canada’s largest meat 39% of Americans and 43% of Canadians are processing firms—see commercial potential in “actively trying to incorporate more plant-based what they call “sustainable protein.” This past foods into their diets.” This indicates that the mar- December, Tyson Foods increased its investment in ket for plant-based options is many times larger than Beyond Meat by an undisclosed amount in a $55 the 3% of American consumers and 2% of Canadian million fundraising round, adding to the 5% own- consumers who follow vegan diets, Nielsen noted ership stake Tyson took in the privately held (Nielsen 2017) (Figures 1 and 2). »» company in October 2016 (Tyson 2017). Similarly, Maple Leaf Foods, Canada’s largest meat processor, acquired U.S.-based vegan meat The IFTNEXT initiative is a heightened, purpose-drive commitment to bringing and cheese producer Field Roast Grain Meat Co. for provocative ideas and discoveries together to inspire thoughtful, important $120 million in January (Maple Leaf Foods 2018). conversations that challenge conventional approaches with the goal of To gain a foothold in “the $600 million U.S. plant- informing global issues related to the science of food. based protein market,” as the company described it,

05.18 • www.ift.org 23 pg Figure 1. % of Consumers Who Reduced Meat Intake Between 2015 Figure 2. % of Consumers Who Reported Eating Meat Once a Week or Less in 2017. and 2017. From Innova Market Insights From Innova Market Insights R&D phase of several years, with Impossible Foods founder Patrick 33% 53% O. Brown and his Germany Germany team first using gas chromatogra- phy-mass 22% 44% spectrometry to United Kingdom United Kingdom analyze the thou- sands of compounds that 21% 44% contribute to United States United States ground beef ’s aroma and taste. After deter- mining that hemo- In its Plant-based Proteins—U.S. growth rate (CAGR) for meat substi- globin is a critical component of report published in January, Mintel tute launches worldwide between ground beef’s performance and fla- Group points out that 5% of U.S. 2012 and 2016 (Innova 2017). vor, the company sought out a adult consumers eat plant-based ani- Although is rising in plant-based source of heme, finding it mal protein substitutes three times Western countries, especially among in soy root nodules. Instead of har- or more a week and 11%, one to two young European consumers, accord- vesting soy roots, the company times a week. Mintel suggests that ing to Mintel—with 12% of inserted a snippet of the soy DNA Millennials, and Hispanic Millennials consumers between the ages of 16 that codes for heme into a standard in particular, represent a robust mar- and 24 identifying as vegan in France yeast strain. Today, fermentation ket with significant potential (Mintel and 10% in both Germany and tanks containing the proprietary 2018a). Poland—most of the market growth yeast produce red heme that tastes Emphasizing the global nature of for plant-based analogs of meat, sea- like blood (Jacobsen 2016). Besides the plant-based food movement, food, and dairy products comes from heme, the Impossible Burger contains a Innova Market Insights in 2017 flexitarians, who limit meat con- blend of textured wheat protein, reported a 14% compound annual sumption but don’t completely avoid coconut oil, potato protein, and it (Mintel 2017). other natural flavors plus a small White Castle’s plant-based Impossible Slider developed by Impossible Foods It is flexitarians and more diehard amount of ingredients such as yeast made its debut last month at 140 of the chain’s locations in New York, New meat eaters that companies are tar- extract, salt, isolate, kon- Jersey, and the Chicago area. Photo courtesy of White Castle and Impossible Foods geting with increasingly realistic jac gum, and xanthan gum replicas of the appearance, taste, (Impossible Foods 2018). texture, mouthfeel, nutritional prop- “Our goal for our first product, erties, and other characteristics of the Impossible Burger, is to create a animal-derived products. world-class burger that surpasses any other burger—made from plants or Replicating the Iconic American Burger animals—in taste, nutrition, and Impossible Foods with its Impossible sustainability,” says Jessica Burger and Beyond Meat with the Appelgren, vice president of commu- Beyond Burger have garnered much nications at Impossible Foods. media attention by creating analogs Since opening its first full-scale that mimic the cooking properties, manufacturing plant last year, juiciness, and even the bleeding of Impossible Foods has expanded ground beef as well as its taste and quickly in the foodservice realm. But aroma. many restaurants still price the Debuting at David Chang’s Impossible Burger at around $15. “As Momofuku Nishi in New York City we continue to increase production in the summer of 2016 and now capacity and as our company grows, served in more than 700 restaurants the price will decrease significantly, across the United States, the and we’ll be able to supply the Impossible Burger went through an Impossible Burger to retail outlets,” pg 24 05.18 • www.ift.org Appelgren says. “Our goal is to be available anywhere you can find meat from animals.” The Beyond Burger, in contrast, is more widely distributed, with Beyond Meat founder Ethan Brown focusing on retail from the beginning and now making significant inroads in the foodservice sector. After clinching a deal with Ahold Delhaize USA, which owns several East Coast grocery banners, Beyond Meat reported last December that the Beyond Burger would soon be carried by some 5,000 supermarkets across the country. And as of January, the vegan burger has been added to the Years in development, the Impossible Burger is noted for its meat-like mouthfeel and juices. Burger Bar menu of all of TGI Photo courtesy of Impossible Foods Fridays’ more than 450 locations nationwide (Beyond Meat 2018). Retailed in a package containing launched Beyond Sausage, a plant- as analogs for pork, chicken, and sea- two 4-ounce patties, the Beyond based analog containing primarily food, notes David Tuescher, a special Burger is intended to be placed in the pea, fava bean, and rice protein to projects chemist with Sethness meat case rather than in a store’s approximate the unique texture of Products Co., a producer of caramel vegan section. The main ingredient pork sausage. A trace amount of beet colors. “Caramel colors are fairly in the burger, which has 20 grams of juice contributes a meaty red color, unique,” he says, explaining their protein, is pea protein isolate, with while coconut oil provides juiciness, versatility. “In a very low concentra- beet juice added to simulate bleeding. according to the company. The sau- tion, you get a yellowy tone. As the Other ingredients in the patties sage is wrapped in a 100% concentration goes up, you get more include vegetable oils, yeast extract, plant-based casing made from algae. of a reddish tone. And up from there, plant fiber, binders, and natural Getting the color right is critical you get into the brown tones.” flavors. to the development of appetizing, Tuescher points out that Sethness Beyond Meat also recently realistic plant-based burgers as well has many caramel colors suitable for vegan products, such as minimally In addition to the Beyond Burger, Beyond Meat processed, non-GMO project veri- offers pea protein–based Beef Crumbles, which fied, and certified organic liquids and are suitable for applications like tacos. powders. Photo courtesy of Beyond Meat “On any kind of meat substitute, caramel color is an excellent source of those black grill-mark effects,” adds Terry Geerts, a Sethness appli- cation chemist.

Celebrating Simplicity While they might induce meat lovers to eat less meat, plant-based analogs that aim to simulate all of meat’s sen- sory properties tend to be unappealing to vegans, observes Cecilia Wittbjer, vice president of marketing for Parabel, which makes duckweed-derived Lentein. “We feel that most people who are vegan—as well as flexitarians who are trying to adopt a healthier, more sustainable plant-based diet—don’t really want pg 26 05.18 • www.ift.org highly processed products.” The company offers several meat and poul- Wittbjer finds it odd that companies try substitutes, including Comrade Cluck, would go to great lengths to bioengineer faux chicken strips made with wheat gluten, plant-based products that taste and appear shoyu, chickpea flour, nutritional yeast, and to bleed like meat. “If their products are organic garlic powder and onion powder, made of plants, they should be proud of it,” and The Pardon, a seasonally available turkey she says. substitute containing wheat gluten, organic Dan Staackmann, the owner of Upton’s white beans, chickpea flour, extra-virgin Naturals, echoes the perspective that vegan olive oil, Celtic sea salt, organic white miso, burgers should not be highly processed. All of and organic herbs and spices. the company’s vegan meat analogs, which are With a strong animal welfare as well as made from seitan (wheat gluten) or jackfruit, sustainability mission, No Evil Foods are clean label and consist of a limited num- donates $1 to the Full Circle Farm ber of simple, natural ingredients, he says. Sanctuary in Warm Springs, Ga., for every purchase of The Pardon. The company’s products, which come in 100% composta- ble packaging, are sold online and at certain stores and food co-ops (No Evil Foods 2018).

Emerging Technologies Owned by Philippine firm Monde Nissin, United Kingdom–based Quorn greatly expanded its U.S. presence last fall, when 1,500 Kroger and subsidiary banner stores began carrying the brand. Quorn meat alternatives are made with mycoprotein, a single-cell protein derived from the fungus Fusarium venenatum (strain PTA-2684), which was originally discovered in the The formulation for The Classic Burger, a plant-based burger 1960s growing naturally in the soil in a field alternative from Upton’s Naturals includes several different in Marlow, Buckinghamshire, England kinds of seitan. Photo courtesy of Upton’s Naturals (Quorn 2018). Today, Quorn developer Marlow Foods produces the mycoprotein in Upton’s Naturals’ latest plant-based large tanks using a continuous fermentation meat substitute, called The Classic Burger, process fed with oxygenated water, glucose, consists of seitan, tofu, and eggplant. and other nutrients. “There are a couple of different kinds of Fifteen Quorn products are available in seitan in there, so it creates a somewhat the United States, including three new realistic mouthfeel because there is a shift in refrigerated items: Meat-free Chicken Strips, texture when you bite into it,” he explains. Meat-free Italian Sausages, and Meat-free “But that’s as far as we went in terms of try- Chicken & Apple Sausages. While Quorn prod- ing to go after a sort of realistic feeling.” ucts have a taste and mouthfeel that come To break up the dense texture of the close to meat, the brand has been criticized seitan, Upton’s Naturals added tofu and for being highly processed, not having then eggplant to the formulation. “The egg- enough vegan items (many contain egg plant provides a ton of unique flavor, giving white as a binder), and causing allergic the burger a little bit more of a smoky reactions and digestive problems in some taste,” Staackmann says. people. No Evil Foods, another plant-based meat Another firm experimenting with start-up, devotes much of its website to fungal ingredients is U.S.-based explaining why people should consume MycoTechnology, a start-up company that plant meat instead of animal protein, begin- uses fermented Shiitake mushrooms as a ning with this statistic: “One calorie of protein source. MycoTech raised $42 mil- animal protein requires 11 times as much lion from investors in its latest fundraising fossil fuel as one calorie of plant protein.” round this past October. »»

05.18 • www.ift.org 27 pg Although veganism is rising in Western countries, most of the market growth for plant-based analogs of meat, seafood, and dairy products comes from flexitarians.

of meat. A public-private partnership by producing plant-based fish ana- called Plant Meat Matters plans to logs, the first of which isAhimi , a commercialize this innovative tech- vegan substitute for the raw tuna that nology, which has the capability of is used in sushi. The name of the producing larger cuts of plant-based product is derived from the Japanese meats. words “ahi,” which means “tuna,” and “mi,” which means “the spirit or Sustainability Driving essence of.” Seafood Alternatives Ahimi is made with just two pri- One of many sustainability argu- mary ingredients, tomatoes and ments made against animal water, plus a little sugar and some agriculture is that it doesn’t use valu- soy sauce to make it more like sushi, able land resources efficiently “so it’s very clean label,” Benzaquen because too much farmland is says. His company spent five years devoted to producing livestock feed. developing a special proprietary non- Quorn meat alternatives are made with mycoprotein, a single-cell protein “Growing and feeding our crops to extrusion mechanical process that derived from a fungus. Photo courtesy of Quorn animals is inherently inefficient,” transforms the ingredients into “the insists Alison Rabschnuk, the direc- fatty, chewy texture of fish,” as he tor of corporate engagement at the puts it, while removing the tomato Besides the ingredients, the pro- Good Food Institute, noting that beef flavor. duction techniques used to make cattle use the vast majority of their Debuting at the National meat and poultry analogs have a big food for day-to-day metabolism and Restaurant Show last year, Ahimi impact on their performance, says for developing blood, bone, and attracted the interest of two of the Thermo Fisher’s Leister, who notes brains, as opposed to meat that largest U.S. seafood distributors, that the two best-known production humans will actually consume. Benzaquen says. “The sushi chef at methods are extrusion and fiber Other environmental concerns one of the companies came over and spinning. Adapted from the textile include greenhouse gas emissions, tasted it and asked, ‘What kind of industry, fiber spinning is effective at water pollution from animal waste fish is this?’” he remembers. “That forming a meat-like fiber structure in run-off, enormous water and energy was a dream for us. We can make the plant-based materials but is so tech- usage, and deforestation in develop- greatest impact when we’re working nologically difficult and expensive ing countries for the raising of alongside the industry, which is really that it has never caught on livestock. recognizing now that times are commercially. While plant-based diet propo- changing.” Extrusion is a process that has nents bring up all of these concerns, Today, Ahimi is sold in a number undergone refinement over the years. the most urgent environmental of restaurants and in some Whole Leister points out that Thermo Fisher imperative right now is arguably Foods sushi bars. Ocean Hugger offers a twin-screw extruder with a depletion of the oceans, an issue Foods will soon launch two other special die head that cools the driving the development of new vegan seafood products: salmon extruded protein down in a long flow plant-based seafood analogs. Because made out of carrot and eel made out channel to generate the desired of ongoing over-fishing, experts pre- of eggplant. fibrous structure. “Controlling the dicted more than 10 years ago that all Concerns about sustainability temperature makes the proteins solid- commercial species of fish could be also drove chef Chad Sarno, vice ify in a way that they really resemble extinct by 2048. president of culinary at Good Catch the texture of meat,” he says. “Wild fishing is devastating the Foods, to enter the seafood alterna- Wageningen University & oceans, but farmed fishing is even tive market. “If you look at the Research in The Netherlands, how- more destructive because wild fish environmental impact that the sea- ever, has developed a new shear-cell are being fed to the farmed fish and, food industry is having on our technology that the university says as a result, more fish are being har- oceans, it’s astronomical,” he says. can transform vegetable protein into vested,” notes David Benzaquen, the “In addition, the public is starting to layered fibrous structures that closely CEO of Ocean Hugger Foods. His understand the harmful effects that resemble the appearance and texture company aims to help solve the crisis mercury has. It’s in shellfish and tuna pg 28 05.18 • www.ift.org and other species.” That said, there haven’t been many enter- prises producing plant-based seafood analogs—a gap that Sarno and the company’s other co-founders consider a huge opportunity. A well-known vegan chef, Sarno prioritized flavor and texture during the R&D phase of Good Catch Foods’ first products: shelf-stable fish-free tuna in three varieties and frozen plant-based fish patties and crab cakes. “We wanted to create something that was culinary-driven, so taste was first and fore- most,” Sarno shares. This makes sense given that Mintel recently reported that taste is the No. 1 reason consumers who eat plant-based protein choose to do so (Mintel 2018b). “But with seafood, texture is also such an important piece,” Sarno continues. “One reason there haven’t been many seafood alternatives is that the flaky texture of fish is difficult to achieve with extrusion.” Sarno explains that the high-gelling beads typically used in extrusion to create animal product analogs tend to produce a product that Ahimi is a tomato-based alternative to raw tuna with a savory, meaty taste. Photo courtesy of Ocean Hugger Foods

05.18 • www.ift.org 31 pg has the mouthfeel of chicken or beef. alternative products made from yel- vitamin D, calcium, and plant-based Catch Foods spent a year of low peas, has been generating a lot of protein, with up to half the sugar of trial and error to come up with a buzz. Created by Adam Lowry and dairy-based offerings per serving (for formulation that yielded the flaki- Neil Renninger, two entrepreneurial flavored varieties) plus a daily dose of ness, or “dry protein bite,” of fish, as “disruptors” who’ve had successful omega-3 healthy fats,” she says. he describes it. ventures in nonfood industries, the Good Karma also has a line of The final formulation consists of a Ripple brand aims to provide better- Flaxmilk-based yogurt in plain, proprietary combination of pea, soy, tasting, more nutritious and more vanilla, blueberry, strawberry, and chickpea, lentil, fava bean, and navy ecologically friendly vegan dairy raspberry flavors as well as a line of bean protein. “Having a clean label products (Krader 2017). probiotic drinkable yogurt alterna- product has also been really impor- Ripple Foods has developed a tives in plain, blueberry, strawberry, tant to us,” Sarno adds. “At this point technology that can “separate the and “good greens and pineapple.” we’re not using added flavors—just good stuff from the peas from all of The coffee creamer and cappuc- natural, real ingredients.” the stuff that kind of gives it that off- cino market segments are also ripe The vegan tuna product, which flavor and color,” Lowry told for dairy alternative product comes packaged in pouches instead of FastCompany.com (Peters 2016). launches and expansion. Introduced cans, contains 13 grams of protein The resulting milk alternative con- to the United States in March 2017, per serving, somewhere between the tains all of the protein but none of Oatly! is a trending albeit 25-year-old protein content of skipjack and alba- the flavor and color of the peas and product developed core tuna, according to Sarno. requires much less water to make by the Swedish company Introduced in March at Natural than or . Lunchbox-size Good Karma Flaxmilk + Products Expo West in Anaheim, Currently, Ripple’s milk alterna- Protein is shelf stable and sold in Calif., the fish-free tuna will be avail- tive line consists of five products: 12- and 24-packs. Photo courtesy of Good able commercially later this year, original, unsweetened original, Karma Foods followed by the frozen vegan fish vanilla, unsweetened vanilla, and burgers and crab cakes. chocolate. The company’s

Photo courtesy of Impossible Foods Impossible courtesy of Photo There is room for so much more newest line is a Greek- product innovation in the legume- style yogurt based seafood analog space, Sarno alternative in five says. “There are over 800 legumes on varieties: original, the planet that are edible and are vanilla, strawberry, used across the world,” he observes. blueberry, and “We’re only just scratching the sur- maple (Ripple 2018). face of innovation.” Although Good Karma Foods Surge in Dairy Stand-Ins launched its first The dairy alternative space, in con- Flaxmilk products a trast, is overflowing with innovation. few years ago as an Although still dominated by soy milk allergen-free dairy and almond milk, many new vegan alternative, the com- milks such as pea, oat, and barley— pany has expanded as well as plant-based yogurt drinks the brand with a and yogurts—have recently entered Flaxmilk + Protein the marketplace. line, which contains In June 2017, Innova reported that 8 grams of added the global market for plant-based plant-based protein dairy alternative drinks is expected to per serving, and a reach $16.3 billion in 2018, up from new shelf-stable $7.4 billion in 2010. Innova also noted Flaxmilk Omega-3 + that worldwide dairy alternative Protein line that deliv- launches grew at a CAGR of 20% ers a similar amount of from 2012 to 2016 (Innova 2017). protein per serving, Backed by a $44 million invest- according to Breanna Littlepage, the ment from Google and Silicon Valley firm’s marketing director. “The new venture capitalists, Ripple Foods, line delivers an unmatched mighty which makes a brand of milk nutritional bundle of vitamin A, pg 32 05.18 • www.ift.org Oatly, which is pilot-testing the milk Just Beginning www.ift.org substitute in American coffeehouses. Despite all of the activity in the Online Exclusive: PlantPure Revs Up Grassroots Campaign The company’s founder, food science plant-based protein realm, there is Read an online exclusive about a campaign by passionate vegan Nelson professor Rickard Oste, developed much space for growth and creativ- Campbell to spread the word about plant-based eating and his foray into the vegan food business at ift.org/food-technology/current-issue. the technology that uses enzymes to ity, notes Eddie Yoon, founder of liquefy oats into a rich milk that pre- Eddie Would Grow. A business serves the oats’ digestion-promoting growth strategist, Yoon sees great products, observes the Good Food fibers. potential in creating plant-based Institute’s Rabschnuk. “People who Used in more than 1,000 U.S. alternatives for meat that are higher are eating plant-based foods today coffeehouses to date, the barista edi- in quality than ground product but know how great the best ones taste,” tion (whole milk-equivalent) of Oatly! not as upscale as steak, the sort of she says. “This is important because has been outperforming other plant- cuts used in many different ethnic the vast majority of people make based milk alternatives that have been cuisines. “The opportunity is in the their food choices based on taste, used in coffee drinks. “We had tried middle,” he says. price, and convenience. As compa- soy, almond, hemp, coconut, and Given the rise of multiculturalism nies are able to produce plant-based nothing worked with coffee,” and Millennials’ penchant for inter- products at scale, price and conve- Caroline Bell, the co-owner of Café national cuisines, Yoon believes that nience will also improve.” Grumpy in New York City, told Time. vegan versions of the meat used in As Rabschnuk points out, “With some varieties, you couldn’t Mexican and Asian dishes—such as “Animal meat is as good as it can get. taste the coffee; with others, the milk shredded pork (carnitas) and the But plant-based meat will continue to would curdle.” The oat fibers and thinly sliced marinated beef used in get better and diversify.” FT added rapeseed oil in Oatly! provide Korean barbecue—could have the this vegan milk with a thicker consis- potential to become mass market Carolyn Doris is a freelance writer based in the tency, which helps it produce a products. Chicago area ([email protected]). better-quality foam in cappuccino Plant-based animal protein alter- and latte drinks (Time 2018). natives will continue to grow in IFTNEXT is made possible through the In the dairy alternative category, acceptance as their production generous support of Ingredion, IFT’s certain companies are boosting their increases and more people try these Platinum Innovation Sponsor. sustainability credentials by innova- tively using plant-based waste REFERENCES products from other vegan food pro- cessing operations. U.S.-based Beyond Meat. 2018. “In the Fastest Test-to-Table Launch in markets.com. TGI Fridays’ History, The Plant-Based Beyond Burger Is Mintel. 2017. “Germany Hosted the Highest Number of Canvas, a start-up backed by Zx Joining the Menu Nationwide.” Press release, Jan. 2. Vegan Launches Worldwide in 2016.” Press release, March Ventures (a division of Anheuser- Beyond Meat, El Segundo, Calif. beyondmeat.com 24. Mintel Group, London. mintel.com. 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