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Read Excerpt (PDF) DIGESTIONS Publishing established and emerging scholars and writers, Digestions is a book series that considers the history of food, the culture of food, and the politics of what we eat from both a Canadian and a global perspective. series editor Sarah Elton For more information about publishing in the series, please contact: Karen May Clark, Acquisitions Editor University of Regina Press 3737 Wascana Parkway Regina, Saskatchewan s4s 0a2 Canada [email protected] www.uofrpress.ca S E KIN N C D ONG ES A Canadian Culinary Journey LENORE NEWMAN foreword by Sarah Elton © 2017 University of Regina Press All rights reserved. No part of this work covered by the copyrights hereon may be reproduced or used in any form or by any means — graphic, electronic, or mechanical — without the prior written permission of the publisher. Any request for photocopying, recording, taping or placement in information storage and retrieval systems of any sort shall be directed in writing to Access Copyright. Printed and bound in Canada at Marquis. Cover design: Duncan Campbell, University of Regina Press Text design: John van der Woude, jvdw Designs Copy editor: Dallas Harrison Proofreader: Kristine Douaud Indexer: Patricia Furdek Cover art: front cover (top row, l to r): “Fruit and Leaves of Amelanchier Ovalis (Saskatoon)” by multik79/Fotolia; “Red Lobster” by Paul Binet/AdobeStock; “Single Fiddlehead” by Bert Folsom/Fotolia; (middle row, l to r): “Rhubarb Stalks” by Valentyn Volkov/Fotolia; “Montreal Style Bagel” by nettestock/Fotolia; (bottom row, l to r): “Cod” by HelleM/Fotolia; “Raw Salmon” by Diana Taliun/Fotolia. spine: “Leaf Shape Maple Syrup Bottle” by Casper1774/AdobeStock. back cover: “Poutine, Canadian Cuisine” by uckyo/Fotolia. Additional Interior art: "A Savory Meat Pie" by David Pimborough/iStock; "Roll Seafood" by Givaga/ iStock; "Fillet steak beef" by karandaev/iStock; "Red apple" by anna1311/Stock; "Glazed Doughnut Holes" by Lauri Patterson/iStock; "Fresh bunch of grapes with leaves" by Hyrma/iStock. All interior photographs by the author. Library and Archives Canada Cataloguing in Publication Newman, Lenore, 1973-, author Speaking in cod tongues : a Canadian culinary journey / Lenore Newman ; foreword by Sarah Elton. (Digestions) Includes bibliographical references and index. Issued in print and electronic formats. isbn 978-0-88977-459-9 (paperback).—isbn 978-0-88977-466-7 (pdf).— isbn 978-0-88977-467-4 (html) 1. Food—Canada. 2. Food habits—Canada. 3. Cooking, Canadian. 4. Canada—Social life and customs. i. Title. ii. Series: Digestions (Regina, Sask.) gt2853.c3n49 2016 394.1'20971 c2016-906124-8 c2016-906125-6 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 University of Regina Press, University of Regina Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada, s4s 0a2 tel: (306) 585-4758 fax: (306) 585-4699 web: www.uofrpress.ca We acknowledge the support of the Canada Council for the Arts for our publishing program. We acknowledge the financial support of the Government of Canada. / Nous reconnaissons l’appui financier du gouvernement du Canada. This publication was made possible through Creative Saskatchewan’s Creative Industries Production Grant Program. For Katherine. Your love and support made this book possible. I’m sorry about all of the potatoes. CONTENTS Foreword by Sarah Elton ix Acknowledgements xii part i: from confederation to cuisine Introduction: Sideboard Diplomacy 3 The Language of Cuisine 20 From a Cold Country: The Cuisine of an Imagined Wilderness 36 Seasonality in an Age of Eternal Summer 53 The Canadian Creole 70 Ingredients: As Canadian as Maple Syrup 91 part ii: a tour of the regions Quebec and Ontario 115 Alberta and British Columbia 138 The East Coast, the Prairies, and the North 158 part iii: canadian cuisine looks forward Food and Public Life 183 Between Places 199 Coming Home to an Uncertain Future 217 Notes 239 References 255 Index 267 FOREWORD What is Canadian cuisine? When we ask ourselves this question, we come up with answers such as maple syrup and pancakes, poutine, or butter tarts and Nanaimo bars—possibly perogies in Alberta and Jigg’s Dinner in Newfoundland. But there has been no consensus on ix Canadian cuisine. No meal or recipe or ingredient has offered a satisfac- tory answer to the question of what is Canadian cuisine today because, as Lenore Newman asserts in this book, ours is a creole cuisine, assem- bled through the simmering of history, culture, migration, regionalism, colonialism and capitalism. What Newman experienced and discovered as she travelled (and ate) her way across Canada in search of answers to this question was that the vast differences in climate, geography and, therefore, ingredients of this wide country’s regions stand in the way of defining a singular national cuisine in the conventional sense. Canadian cuisine is the food of regions. This is not a surprising conclusion because, as many have remarked, including celebrated food anthropologist Sidney Mintz, national cuisines are in fact regional—such as Italy’s supposed national dish ragù alla bolognese, which, loosely translated, means “sauce made like they do in Bologna.” (This tomato and meat sauce served over noo- dles is now divorced from region and so globally ubiquitous that I have foreword found it on menus in cities as disparate as Rome, Guatemala City, and Mumbai.) The idea of French cuisine, as Amy B. Trubek documents in her scholarly work, has been constructed in part with the help of the Michelin Tire company in the 1950s. In an effort to grow a market for their tires, they published guide books to entice the French to drive their cars out into the country and seek out what the regions had to offer. What better a reason to travel than to discover some tasty regional spe- cialties. What’s different here in Canada is that no advertising campaign or government policy, so far, has successfully elevated any one particular food, ingredient, or dish to national champion. As Mintz writes in Tasting Food, Tasting Freedom, “‘Cuisine,’ more exactly defined, has to do with the ongoing foodways of a region.” A cuisine is defined by a geographic area, a history, a sense of coherence, as well as by a self-consciousness. Part of having a cuisine, he holds, is rec- ognizing our shared experience of preparing and eating as just that—a x shared experience. We keep asking ourselves the question—what is Canadian cuisine?— perhaps because we lack that self-consciousness. Our food rituals are so habitual, engaged in unreflectively, that we don’t in fact see them for what they are. And Newman, in this book, recognizes our habits and peculiarities for what they are: cuisine. Like berry-picking, which she describes as a national pastime. Humans have been nourishing themselves with berries for millennia here on this land we call Canada today. Even though you can buy fresh southern berries at the supermarket all year round, many of us still go out to pick our own summer berries in the backyard, at the u-pick, in the clear-cut, at the side of the road, in the community garden. Which type of berry we pile into our old yogourt containers, dangling from strings around our necks, depends on our region. Newman picks wild blackberries in the west, whereas I grew up collecting raspberries in the thin strip of low brush between the gravel road and crown land behind my grandmother’s cottage in Ontario. This shared berry-picking foreword experience is creolized in the way we then prepare the berries. What recipes we turn to depends on who raised our grandmothers, who mar- ried our moms, or who passed along recipes for what to do with those berries from the kitchen next door or across the ocean. Blueberry-filled perogies. Bakeapple jam. Gooseberry jelly. Strawberry lassi. Why does all this matter in the age of the season-less supermarket, where fresh, frozen and processed foods of all kind fly across borders with more ease than a tourist with a piece of unpasteurized cheese in her purse? The power of cuisine in the vastness of Canada is that it roots us to place. It connects us all to the land. In 2005, the United Nations cultural body unesco offered their own definition of terroir. While this expression more typically is used to describe the flavours of a wine, unesco broadened this notion to include the relationship humans have with the geographical area that feeds them, including all the interactions that take place between the human world and the biophysical world as a result of cuisine. When we eat, we take nature inside of us. Nature—the xi berry, the animal, the vegetable—becomes us, quite literally as our body builds its cells from what we take in. Through food, and therefore this question of what is Canadian cuisine, we might realize that we are the land. And it is us. No matter where we come from or where we choose to live, Canadian cuisine can be defined as eating the land on which we live. And this is a powerful notion. Sarah Elton September 12, 2016 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS I would like to acknowledge the support of the Social Sciences and Humanities Research Council of Canada and the Canada Research Chair program. I would like to thank Bruce Walsh, director, and the entire team xii at University of Regina Press for believing in this book, and in particular I want to thank editors Karen Clark and Donna Grant for their tireless effort to improve the manuscript. In addition, Dallas Harrison’s patience made the copy editing process much easier. I would also like to thank the University of the Fraser Valley, and particularly Adrienne Chan and the folks in the Office of Research for their unwavering support.
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