top winemakers

The winemakers’ Above: the Altos Las Hormigas winery and winemakers Alberto Antonini (right) and was an example for What greater accolade can there be than being judged best in the world by your The top five other Argentinian (in alphabetical order) peers? We asked leading winemakers around the world which three of their peers producers. The fashion at the time, however, was for super-ripe and they most admired. The criteria were that they could be making in any part of Alberto Antonini sweet , where it was very difficult to the world but must have made at least 10 and must still be making wine As part of the consulting work Antonini does identify either any sense of place or tradition. Top 30 (in alphabetical order) today. They could be working at a winery or as a consultant. When we number- around the world, in 2010 he was offered a job While it would be unfair to say that the wines n crunched the 133 responses, these were the names that came out top in the region of Yeghegnadzor, Armenia. In from Altos Las Hormigas were an example of Alberto Antonini their first conversation, the producer told him this, they did exhibit some of these n Lalou Bize-Leroy he wanted a ‘modern’ wine. Antonini, his characteristics. n Eric Boissenot voice calm, his manner zen-like, replied that if About seven years ago, Antonini says he n Jean-Louis The winemaker today control (to reduce the need for herbicides and what he meant was a wine from local grapes realised that the path was not selling a grape, Chave pesticides), use of selected yeast or wild yeasts and fermented in amphorae, like the wines but a place. ‘The idea was to forget the n Stéphane There can be no doubt that (so-called ‘natural’ ferments), reduction of made 6,000 years ago in Yeghegnadzor, then formula, responsible for the global Derenoncourt winemakers, flying and not, total alcohol levels in wines (by use of reverse that was the ‘modern’ wine he needed. ‘The colonisation of most wine regions of the world, n Aubert de have had an immense and osmosis or spinning cones) and selecting wine of the future will be the wine of the past,’ with its strong standardisation of varieties and Villaine largely positive impact on specific coopers and varieties in which to says Antonini. And that’s the vision that, even wine styles,’ says Antonini. Through him, n Helmut how wine tastes today. age the wines are all part of a good modern- after a 30-year career, sparks this Italian Altos Las Hormigas has been one of the leaders Dönnhoff Thanks to their training and day winemaker’s armoury. winemaker’s excitement – the idea of ​​ in the transformation of , reducing the n Paul Draper experience, drinking flawed returning to absolute simplicity in order to excess of oak and overripeness, and focusing n Alvaro Espinoza or unpleasant efforts is rare: A fine balance achieve the best possible interpretation of efforts on showing the site before the grape. n Richard gone are the days of white wines oxidised soon However, those very strengths can become a where wines are born. In Chile, his presence is also evident. He Geoffroy after bottling or barely palatable, rustic reds. problem. Far too many wines nowadays taste But that wasn’t always his goal. Antonini advises at Concha y Toro, Montgras, Viña n Nadine Gublin Over the past 30 years, winemakers have more or less the same, no matter where they today advises wineries in places as diverse as Leyda and Luis Felipe Edwards among others. n Marcel Guigal become pivotal, thanks to skills ranging from are made. Is that really desirable, even if the ‘The greatest Maldonado on the Uruguayan coast, or His style, not at all pompous, hides the n Paul Hobbs a superior sense of taste and smell honed by wines ‘taste good’? I don’t think so. Using Caltanissetta on the island of Sicily. But it all influence he has here, but without doubt his n Olivier years of experience and travels, to specific cultured yeasts (naturally occurring ones are winemakers started in Florence, where he graduated in expertise has helped to guide some of the most Humbrecht knowledge about one grape variety or . often characterised by less predictable and viticulture in 1985. His first job important Chilean winemakers, and his vision n Frédéric Lafarge For example, among the top 15 winemakers behaviours) can also lead to standardised don’t just was as an assistant winemaker at Frescobaldi, has helped to change the wine in this country n Dominique profiled here, Michel Rolland is famous for his wines, all showcasing the same perceived and then he become technical manager at as well as more widely in . Lafon skill at blending, Attilio Pagli is universally desirable traits. For example, should all Fianos, pay lip remarkable Tuscan wineries like Col d’Orcia Patricio Tapia n Zelma Long regarded as a Malbec expert, and perhaps Vermentinos or Albariños really taste of and Antinori. In 1997, however, he decided to n François Millet nobody knows and understands Bordeaux’s banana and the same tropical fruit? service to the work as a consultant, and it was then that his ‘Having worked with Alberto for almost 15 years n Egon Müller Left Bank better than Eric Boissenot. Clearly estate owners should resist the influence began to be felt. at Concha y Toro, there’s no question in my mind n Attilio Pagli In fact, the winemaker’s role has evolved to temptation of delegating total control to the philosophy Many of his clients are in Italy and he has that he’s a great and remarkable winemaker. His n Alvaro Palacios encompass not only making the wines but winemaker, and ask tough questions. But wine his own winery, Poggiotondo, in Tuscany, knowledge, understanding and expertise is n Mariano di Paola everything from the growing of vines – many writers also need to do a better job, and become that ‘great where he lives when not travelling. But his extraordinary. However, what always impresses n Paul Pontallier of today’s most famous winemakers are also more knowledgeable about their subject. influence is the strongest in South America, me most about him is his respect for authenticity n Ignacio trained in viticulture – to their distribution, Ultimately, the greatest winemakers wines start where he arrived in 1995. In , and quality.’ Marcelo Papa, Concha y Toro Recabarren and acting as ambassadors for their estates. (including this top 15) don’t just pay lip together with winemaker Attilio Pagli (see p37) n Marcelo Retamal Though the best have moved towards a service to the philosophy that ‘great wines in the and his friend Antonio Morescalchi, he ‘I’ve known Alberto for more than 15 years. I first n Jorge Riccitelli ‘less-is-more approach’ in the cellar, they keep start in the vineyard’, but truly work to founded Altos Las Hormigas, in 1996. met him at Gruppo Matura, Italy’s top consulting n Michel Rolland abreast of the latest advances in technology so achieve that. Sometimes just playing the cards vineyard’, but At that time and Cabernet were the team. Since then his international experience has n Christophe as to work with the best possible grapes and you have been dealt is the right thing to do. stars. Bucking the trend, Antonini set his made him one of the world’s most admired and Roumier make the best possible wines. Satellite imaging truly work to sights on Malbec, and the partners agreed that influential winemakers. For me, the secret of his n Eric Rousseau (to study characteristics of single parcels of Ian D’Agata is an awarded wine journalist and the project would revolve around it. The success is that he is traditional with a modern n Alejandro Vigil vines), high-tech irrigation, integrated pest author and a regular Decanter contributor achieve that’ winery was successful, especially in the US, approach.’ Emiliano Falsini, consultant ➢

2 6 | J u l y 2 0 1 5 • DECANTER DECANTER • July 2 0 1 5 | 2 7 the winemakers’ winemaker Photograph:IanShaw/Cephas

Aubert de Villaine Left: Paul Draper and years he has become more outspoken about The co-owner and general manager of the (above) the Monte the need for what he calls a ‘pre-industrial’ Photograph:McLachlan/claypix.comClay Domaine de la Romanée-Conti is lauded Bello vineyard approach in the cellar, eschewing additives. worldwide for his modesty and self-effacing To stand firm behind this approach, he character. And it’s true that he always insists Paul Draper became perhaps the industry’s most vocal he is a mere caretaker of this magnificent On a spring day in California, the faithful proponent of ingredient labelling. Each Ridge estate. He is also involved in other worthwhile packed an old barn at ’ winery, label lists not just the bottle contents (grapes projects, such as safeguarding the ruinous 760m up in the Santa Cruz Mountains south and a bit of sulphur dioxide) but also little- monastery of St-Vivant and preserving the of San Francisco. They had come to taste the discussed winemaking processes, such as the world’s finest massal selections of . latest of Ridge’s Cabernet-driven use of calcium carbonate to lower acidity. This But to portray Aubert de Villaine as a Monte Bello – the ‘primeur’ tasting, as CEO is seemingly less full disclosure – Ridge wines saintly character or a mere custodian is Paul Draper, ever the Bordeaux loyalist, calls it. always had detailed winemaking notes on the misleading, and one that would make him This was more than a tasting. It was a signal label – than it is Draper quietly shaming more wince. He is a highly active head of the of the intense loyalty that Draper has built technically minded winemakers. domaine, travelling frequently to host tastings over 45 vintages working on this mountain. That iconoclasm has brought him even more and events that enhance the appreciation of And not just among his customers. Both his respect, specifically because his views are so DRC and its wines. He is far from complacent wines and his willingness to be outspoken unstinting. He sees something transformative and works constantly to improve quality. have made Draper a beloved figure among in great wines; they’re meditations on a place It has taken him many years of assessment fellow winemakers – including many who and time, and should be treated with the and contemplation, but he has now converted fundamental belief that the wines should be Above: Aubert de prefer a far more bombastic style of wine. utmost respect. It’s a view most winemakers the entire domaine to biodynamic farming. He worthy of the domaine’s incomparable Villaine and (top) the Perhaps that’s because Draper, an Illinois espouse, but few live up to. Jon Bonné paid close attention to tractor technology so as vineyards. Stephen Brook entrance gates to native who came to California via work in ‘Draper to equip it with machinery that would cause Domaine de la Chile, never took an obvious path in his ‘Everything I aspire to in my own winemaking the least compaction to its infinitely precious ‘Why did I vote for Aubert de Villaine? Firstly, Romanée-Conti career. He taught himself winemaking by taught seems to have been practised forever by Paul soils. And he always gives the greatest possible because he (and his forebears) seem to have got reading 19th-century texts, which ultimately Draper at Ridge. For instance, he has a respect for credit for the wines’ stellar quality to his everything perfect. Secondly, having tried many led to him devising a minimalist approach in himself individual sites with an intimate knowledge of the long-term cellarmaster Bernard Noblet. of his wines, they are immaculately constructed, the Ridge cellars: native yeasts, moderate land. Moreover, Paul has never pandered to He began his career modestly, first working typically Burgundian and layered with another extractions, an insistence on American rather winemaking fashion. But happily, the classic, more reserved for importer Frederick Wildman in New York. whole level of soil and geology expression.’ than French oak. That approach yielded a style of Ridge is once again fashionable. And as a When he returned to Vosne-Romanée in 1964 Chester Osborn, D’Arenberg half-century’s worth of iconic American wines: by reading result, more and more producers are making it was to work as an apprentice: pruning, not just Monte Bello but also the - wines of elegance and of the land, not of the driving tractors and sweeping the courtyard. ‘What I most admire about Aubert de Villaine is based twins Geyserville and Lytton Springs. 19th-century winery.’ Gordon Russell, Esk Valley Estate He learned about the domaine and its wines his humility, knowledge, dedication and respect All along, Draper’s work has been beyond from the ground up. In 1974 he became for the source of his wines – the vineyard! It is his reproach, even when Monte Bello was the texts, which ‘Paul is foremost brilliantly steadfast in his vision co-director of DRC with Lalou Bize-Leroy. thoughtful and careful approach with all aspects antithesis of Californian style: about 13% and pursuit of excellence. Secondly, he is not Despite his modest manner, he must have had of growing grapes and making wine which has alcohol as many Cabernets soared toward 16%. ultimately conservative, dogmatically traditional or even a strong will to have weathered the long dispute made me question what our wines really need to Draper might be even more popular among Francophile. Instead, he was always inquisitive in with her that led to her ousting in 1992. be: that is, an authentic and clear expression of his Old World counterparts. He recalls a led to him the extreme, experimental at the risk of He also has his own domaine in the modest where they come from.’ Tom Carson, Yabby Lake winemaker from a Bordeaux second growth embarrassment and inspired by great European village of Bouzeron in the Côte Chalonnaise, as tagging along with one of his lieutenants to a devising a classics. To me, Paul’s work with Monte Bello is it was all that he could afford when he and his ‘Aubert has run DRC for many years and continues cork supplier. The visitor was astounded when one of California’s finest examples of success and American wife were looking for a property in to represent absolute the benchmark of quality, they hydrated, then sniffed, several thousand minimalist continuity.’ Tony Soter, Soter Vineyards the early 1970s. And there’s a joint venture in clearly showing each appellation or climat corks to check for taint. California with Carneros grower (and brother- through the sheer elegance of his wines. Despite At the same time, he has remained at a approach in ‘Paul has been a beacon for the importance of in-law) Larry Hyde: Hyde-De Villaine. being at such a level of excellence, he also remains distance from the industry, living on the same single-vineyard sites, sustainable grape growing, Inevitably DRC remains his main focus, and a very humble, simple person who is always open mountaintop – just a quick walk from the the Ridge selective ‘natural’ winemaking practice and the few would deny that he has maintained the to his colleagues. So it is always a lesson to spend Monte Bello crushpad – for nearly 50 years. diversity of wine styles. He is also a great human very highest standards, if only because of his time with him.’ Dominique Lafon, Comtes Lafon Yet Draper is anything but isolated. In recent cellars’ being.’ Peter Gago, ➢

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Michel Rolland There are few winemakers or consultants whose name is as familiar to non-experts as Michel Rolland. Countless winemakers and château owners have attested to his instinctive feeling for what makes a wine come alive, to his great skill in blending and his faultless memory for the different vats and barrels and how to bring the best out of them. Born in in 1947, Rolland grew up at Château Le Bon Pasteur, also in Pomerol, and studied at the Bordeaux Oenology Institute under winemaking greats such as Pascal Ribéreau Gayon and Emile Péynaud. After graduation, he went on to set up a laboratory with his wife Dany Rolland in 1972 (they met while studying at the institute). With their fledgling business just getting on its feet, they soon found that Rolland’s real gift was in translating the sometimes complicated oenological ideas to their clients out in the vineyards and châteaux, and he became the face of the partnership. have their own opinion. We will concentrate Today Rolland owns six estates, and has on making wine.’ Jane Anson joint-venture partnerships in Spain, Argentina and , while continuing to consult ‘Michel Rolland’s influence and impact is huge in for countless properties around the world for Bordeaux and around the world. But what a lot of clients as diverse at Château Ausone in people probably don’t know is that Rolland isn’t St-Emilion, Harlan Estate in Napa and Tenuta just a brilliant winemaker he’s also a master of dell’ in Tuscany. This alone should viticulture.’ Stephen Carrier, Château de Fieuzal demonstrate that there is not simply ‘one style’ of Rolland wine, as is sometimes suggested. ‘Having worked with him for five years in Chile, Even so, he clearly has not lost his touch (or Michel Rolland gave me a renewed vision of possibly appetite) for controversy. When asked winemaking. Michel has the technical ability to about the reaction to his appointment to the Above: Michel Rolland do things that others can’t. However, if I had to ultra-traditional Château Figeac in St-Emilion, and (below) Château pick his greatest single talent, it is his skill at he said: ‘People will always talk and always Le Bon Pasteur blending.’ Aurelio Montes, Montes Wines ➢ Photographs:Phillippe Roy

DECANTER • July 2 0 1 5 | 3 1 top winemakers

Roumier drew inspiration from his father ‘From Christophe Roumier and grandfather. His grandfather Georges’ Visitors to Domaine Georges Roumier covet wines are particularly eye-opening – showing Bourgogne a taste of Musigny Grand Cru, but only a purity and incredible freshness even 60 years minuscule quantity is made. So, it is arguably on. He looked to other great winemakers, too, rouge to the Christophe Roumier’s Chambolle-Musigny seeking inspiration not only from their premier cru, Les Amoureuses, that achieves techniques but also from their philosophies estate’s the highest profile at his demure domaine on crafting great, ageworthy Burgundies. in a back corner of this appellation. Roumier met Henri Jayer in 1980, before he grand crus, Whatever the wine, from Bourgogne was well-known, and met Jacques d’Angerville rouge to the estate’s grand crus such as at around the same time. Jacques Seysses of Roumier is Bonnes Mares and Ruchottes-Chambertin, Domaine Dujac, with his belief in the use of Roumier is known for a style marked by whole-cluster berries, also influenced him. known for a finesse and purity. The wines are sometimes Nonetheless, Roumier’s initial work at the firm early on, but they deliver the ageability domaine focused on changes in the vineyard: style marked that Burgundy lovers crave. monitoring vine vigour, limiting production, One reason for this is that Roumier knows improving grape health, abandoning chemicals by finesse his vines – mostly very old – very well. He and harvesting later. The resulting fruit led to has made wine only at his family’s domaine. adaptations in the winery. The refinement of and purity’ Yet his potential influence on the wine many small details at every stage led to a new world was initially unclear. His father was level of greatness in every bottle. not interested in working with him, and The story seems deceptively simple. Roumier was drawn to science. However, it is painstakingly accumulated Eventually, this led him to the study of inspiration, intuition and introspection vinification. Previously, he knew nothing of – along with the blessing of brilliant family the scientific side of the cellar. Roumier vineyards – that has led Roumier to inspire so became fascinated with the process of many of the world’s best winemakers today. fermentation, the composition of wine and Christy Canterbury MW the process of wine’s evolution. Though not an easy relationship, Roumier ‘In a region with so many extraordinary sites, joined his father in 1981. He produced his Christophe Roumier defines, for me, the extent to first ‘real’ vintage which an individual can elevate an already – where he called famous terroir. His quiet thoughtfulness and the shots – in 1984, relentless drive for quality have always impressed though his father me. He is the epitome of dedication.’ Anthony remained on board Hamilton Russell, Hamilton-Russell Vineyards until 1990. ‘Never over-extracted or lean, Christophe’s wines Left: Christophe are pure pleasure; balanced, elegant and true to Roumier and (below) their origins. He is an extraordinary talent who bottles of his Les makes wine with great feeling and real common Amoureuses 1er Cru, sense.’ Véronique Drouhin, Chambolle-Musigny Maison Joseph Drouhin ➢ Photograph:Michel Joly

3 2 | J u l y 2 0 1 5 • DECANTER top winemakers

Stéphane The next 10 (in alphabetical order) Derenoncourt The self-taught including small châteaux and Derenoncourt is well modest crus bourgeois. His respected for his work clients say he can read in the vineyards and his and the grass-roots approach to contours of the Médoc like no winemaking. At his own one else (he says ‘the estate of Domaine de l’A exceptional parts of the Médoc in Castillon-Côtes de Bordeaux, and with most are not as numerous as they of his clients, he is a big proponent of organic once were, and those that and biodynamic viticulture because ‘no other remain are genuine treasures’). method is so able to meet the demands of a Boissenot puts the emphasis terroir in order to express its essence’. Photograph:Jean-BernardNadeau on letting terroir, grape and His approach is more Burgundian than Eric Boissenot vintage speak. His trademarks Bordelais – you’re more likely to find special Referred to as the least-known include early blending, to give cuvées from single plots in Derenoncourt most influential man in wine, the wine time over ageing to estates than you would find typically in Boissenot consults at two-thirds become ‘whole’, an obsessive Bordeaux, where blending across a large of the Médoc’s 1855 classed approach to press wine, which vineyard is the norm. You are also more likely growths, with rare ventures out he believes is essential to to see late blending after ageing in barrels. to Pessac-Léognan, the Right backbone and ageing ability, Derenoncourt learned winemaking on the Bank and even Greece. But he is and techniques to minimise job – he was a vineyard hand at 19 years old, most at home in the Médoc, potential bacterial issues. JA before becoming cellarmaster at Château where he was born and, as a Pavie-Macquin. When he left to create his child, helped his father Jacques ‘Eric is among the most technical consultancy in 1999, Pavie-Macquin became at their own small château. and talented winemakers I know. his first client. Today Derenoncourt has 90 After school, he followed in He respects the spirit of an estate clients across , Europe, the US, Lebanon his father’s footsteps to the while always improving quality.’ and India, but is still renowned for starting all Bordeaux Institute of Oenology Sandrine Garbay, Château d’Yquem jobs by mapping the plots of vines, ranking before joining him in their them and working out what each one can laboratory in 1990 – now only ‘Eric is modest and understated. bring to the wine. JA his after Jacques’ death in At the same time, he is incredibly 2014. Among Boissenot’s knowledgeable and has the rare ‘I worked with Stéphane in St-Emilion, and got to clients are four of the five first ability to make complicated things appreciate his respect for terroir and his intuitive growths, but he works with simple to grasp.’ Jean-Charles approach. He taught me that you need to stay hundreds of Médoc properties, Cazes, Château Lynch-Bages close to the wine and always keep your hands dirty.’ Andrea Leon, Casa Lapostolle

Helmut Dönnhoff are mostly dry, but he does not No German winemaker would be eschew traditional sweet wines. surprised to learn that Dönnhoff had All his wines are great, and been elected among the best of the despite the relatively large size (by bunch. This is impressive not least German standards) of his estate – because he is a quiet man, with a some 25 hectares, across nine sites humble manner. The wines are like – everything he bottles is considered him: restrained, nothing flashy; he is and allowed to strive for different the ultimate safe pair of hands. goals. Dönnhoff has never been Dubbed the ‘Dalai Lama of the tempted to extract too much from Nahe’ by Gault Millau, Germany’s top his raw material. The grapes and wine guide, Dönnhoff comes from a vineyards make their demands on long line of viticulturists. The family that the soil should speak through him, not vice versa. Giles MacDonogh has made wine in the Nahe for over the wine. He is only the interpreter. 250 years. In recent years the region Dönnhoff is admired by his peers ‘There are few winemakers with has performed better than any other, for pursuing not power but elegance. Helmut’s creativity, knowledge and and Dönnhoff is blessed with some Each one of his wines is given leave wisdom. He also disregards fashion and of its most interesting soils. Like to find its own perfect balance and fads. Plus he makes great wine!’ most great winemakers, he insists optimum level of ripeness. His wines Jeffrey Grosset, Grosset Wines ➢

3 4 | J u l y 2 0 1 5 • DECANTER top winemakers

Paul Hobbs Hobbs established his own winery Somehow he finds time to pursue in 1991, focusing on classic varieties: new projects, such as establishing a , Pinot Noir and Syrah winery in Armenia, and planting a from Sonoma, and Napa Cabernet. vineyard in New York State’s Finger One of the first international Lakes. It’s hard to see Hobbs as a winemakers to take a serious interest fan, but that is precisely in Mendoza, he founded Viña Cobos what he wants to produce, in a joint in 1999, quickly realising the venture with Johannes Selbach of the potential of Mendoza’s sub-regions. Selbach-Oster estate in the Mosel. SB In both Argentina and California Hobbs initially favoured a full-blown ‘Before meeting Paul I was convinced it style, at least for top wines: heavily didn’t matter what kind of fruit I had. I oaked, often super-ripe and high in thought that with technical winemaking alcohol. But the style has been reined I could drive the wine wherever I wanted. The charismatic Hobbs comes from a in over recent years. He admits that He consulted for us for 10 years and farming background in upstate New US critic Robert Parker played a large taught me simplicity. It’s about the fruit York. His first serious job was for part in his choice, since that rich and the right picking moment – that’s Robert Mondavi, and he later worked style was what consumers wanted, at it. From there the only thing you can do at Opus One and Simi in Sonoma’s least in the US. Today he seeks to as winemaker is try not to screw up.’ Alexander Valley. make wines with greater finesse. Santiago Margozzini, MontGras

Dominique Lafon Lafon often seems to be Attilio Pagli ‘The Rascioni & frowning, and I used to One of Italy’s most Cecconello estate think it was grumpiness or a admired winemakers, owned enough shortage of cigarettes. But Pagli is the force vines it’s actually perfectionism, behind some of the to make a varietal and frustration when one of country’s best-known wine. I thought his wines doesn’t meet his wines, such as the big berries high expectations. Lafon is one of the world’s Caprai’s Sagrantino and bunches finest producers of dry – some di Montefalco 25 merited a chance would say the unrivalled best – and that Anni and Salvioni’s and I urged them reputation carries responsibilities. Brunello di to give it a try. I As a young man he had strained relations Montalcino. However, Pagli is was lucky too: the first vintage with his father René, and it wasn’t until 1987 extremely famous in Argentina was 1988, a great year in that he took over at the domaine, which owns too, where he is credited with a Tuscany. Cileigiolo has since land in most of Meursault’s top terroirs. In 1998 major role in turning what was proven itself and is here to stay.’ Lafon converted the domaine to biodynamism, a local wine into the worldwide Pagli is also well known for though at first hesitated to admit this in case success story it is today. his Matura group, a consultancy people thought he was jumping on to a In 1992, Pagli was hired by created in 1997 with Alberto bandwagon just because it was fashionable. Nicolas Catena to consult on a Antonini (see p27). Winemakers Being a top winemaker in Burgundy has its Sangiovese project in Mendoza, and viticulturists follow their drawbacks. Not even Lafon can afford more but once there, he realised the own estates but meet regularly vineyards, and over the decades the domaine vines weren’t Sangiovese. to exchange ideas. The group has only grown by four hectares. Instead he Studying the vineyards led him has helped some of Italy’s has acquired a domaine in Mâcon, Les Héritiers to many old Malbec vines. ‘I was brightest young talent to du Comte Lafon, where he makes wonderfully fascinated by its potential,’ he progress. Today Pagli and the crystalline, elegant whites. He also consults recalls ‘but back then nobody Matura group make some of for Evening Land Vineyards in Oregon. had much faith in Malbec.’ Italy’s greatest wines from other Lafon is in his prime, confident of his Pagli’s skill in reviving native grapes such as Vespolina, expertise and intuitive brilliance, although he forgotten local varieties is clear Ansonica and Aleatico, all with never seems complacent. SB in Italy too. He is the country’s a very bright future. IDA biggest expert on Ciliegiolo, a ‘What I most admire about Dominique is his red grape that makes beautiful, ‘Attilio is an inspiration because ability to express where his wines come from. midweight, spicy red wines that his standards never drop. His They are always elegant and pure, with great are increasingly sought after. understanding of terroir is his terroir influence. That combination of elegance But it took Pagli to come along finest attribute.’ Vittorio Fiore, and depth is something extra special.’ and realise its potential. Podere Poggio Scalette Philipp Wittmann, Weingut Wittmann ➢

DECANTER • July 2 0 1 5 | 3 7 top winemakers

Paul Pontallier 1990 that is currently carrying out Pontallier is neither a consultant nor projects in areas such as biodynamic a château owner, and has spent his viticulture and viticultural changes entire career in the service of just to combat global warming. He is also one estate, save for an 18-month unafraid of making changes when he stint teaching oenology at the feels it necessary, most notably Catholic University of Santiago taking the white wine Pavillon Blanc during his military service. Of course, back to more reasonable alcohol that estate just happens to be levels after years of watching it climb Château Margaux, one of Bordeaux’s to 14% alcohol or higher. first growths. It is this considered approach, Pontallier arrived at Margaux in delivered modestly but with 1983, hired by owner Corinne unarguable results, that attracts Mentzelopoulos when he was just 27. such admiration. JA He had proved little more at the time than his intellectual prowess, having intelligent, balanced and instinctive ‘Paul got my vote for his talent, studied at an agronomic institute in approach to the vineyards and cellar consistency and commitment. He has Paris, then wine growing and and helping the wine reach its been working at Château Margaux for oenology in Montpellier then current astonishing level of success 32 years and has maintained and undertaking further studies in after difficult years in the 1970s. improved its distinctive style of finesse Bordeaux, where he received his PhD Pontallier became managing and elegance. Additionally he has been in oenology in 1981. He did consult director in 1990, and is still an outstanding ambassador for for a few other estates in his early ‘passionately in love with my job’ as Margaux due to his enormous qualities years, but it was at Margaux that he he describes it, creating a research as a person.’ Francisco Baettig, really found his home, applying his and development department in Viña Errazuriz Photograph:Bloomberg/Getty Images

Marcelo Retamal and Retamal has risen to the rank of included), and shaking up Argentina’s In 2011, Marcelo pioneer in the new stage of Chile’s wine scene with these new flavours. Retamal and his wine evolution. All these things have been followed team at the De Retamal has never changed closely by the community of wineries Martino winery employer, working at De Martino in South America. And although today made a very special since he graduated in oenology in everyone talks about Itata, of Cinsault, announcement. 1996. The learning curve that he has and of fresher and less alcoholic From that point on travelled along is discernible in the wines, Retamal was among the first to they would use no wines he has produced there: initially put these issues on the table. PT new oak in their wines. They would they were super-concentrated, also advance significantly the date of over-oaked and technological wines, ‘In my opinion Marcelo is Chile’s best soil in order to obtain more but along the way he developed a and vineyard “explorer”. He is a true freshness in their wines, and would desire to rewrite the rule book and pioneer in the study of Chilean terroir produce them as naturally as possible. make wines that, as he says simply and a great winemaker.’ Rodrigo ‘We want to avoid all contributory ‘will go better with food’. Espinosa, Marques del Atrio factors towards the standardisation of Retamal and his team were also wine,’ Retamal explained. responsible for rescuing Chile’s ‘Marcelo must take a lot of the credit for Such an announcement today forgotten Itata Valley and putting it at the broad diversity has would not be a novelty. Most wineries the forefront of viticultural today. He had the freedom to lead the in Chile (and beyond) make similar innovation. From there, they revived way but also the guts to do it. You have statements. But in 2011 this news the production in Argentina of grapes to admire his vision, his self-questioning caused much turmoil and controversy. like Cinsault and Muscat, vinifying mind, technical skills and his love for Today his philosophy is applauded them in the ancestral way (amphorae wine.’ Francisco Baettig, Viña Errazuriz ➢

Climate change and critics: our top winemakers speak their minds

When contacting the world’s top winemaking talent for this when making their wine? And which other region would they article, we took the opportunity to poll them about issues of the make wine in if they could? day. Have they felt the effect of climate change on their wines? To see the response to these and other questions, visit To what extent do they take wine critics and judges into account www.decanter.com/winemakersurvey

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Eric Rousseau Alejandro Vigil Charles Rousseau of Vigil is one of the most Domaine Armand important figures on the South Rousseau is a hard act American wine scene today. to follow. Although he Since 2003, as part of the handed over the estate winemaking team at Bodega to his son Eric long ago, Catena Zapata, and since 2007, the nonagenarian is as its chief winemaker, Vigil still a presence. Eric has focused his energy on returned to the making the wider public domaine after realise that there is much completing his studies more to Argentinian Malbec in 1982, so has a most than current wines suggest. intimate knowledge of the vines and wines. His first efforts came Not that Eric has made dramatic changes. immediately after his arrival at Why would he, given the domaine’s exalted Catena: creating its single- reputation? One of the first Burgundy vineyard collection of . domaines to bottle its wines in the 1930s, it Even with the first vintage in was run by his grandfather until his death in 2004, this group of wines 1959, which forced Charles to take control. illustrated how chameleon-like Malbec can be, Charles and now Eric have always wanted the depending on where it was planted. The wines, and terroirs, to speak for themselves. single-vineyard Angelica in Lunlunta, at 920m Eric employs green-harvesting to control the above sea level, and Adrianna in Gualtallary, yields, and picks the grapes relatively early, to at 1,450m, are two of the best examples. avoid masking the individuality of each terroir But Vigil is tireless. And though he remains with overripe flavours. committed to deepening our understanding of Rousseau has also continued a modified Malbec terroir, he also has many other version of his father’s policy of ageing some interests. One is , a grape that top sites – Chambertin, Clos de Bèze, and is sparsely planted in Argentina, but has given Clos-St-Jacques – in new oak (which have the excellent results in a very short time. Vigil is structure and concentration to support it, he on a quest to discover all he can about the says), while other wines, even grands crus variety, especially those plantings in the such as Ruchottes and Charmes-Chambertin, highest vineyards of the Uco Valley. are aged in second-fill barrels to allow the Cabernet Franc is also a central point in fruit to sing. He is also wary of excessive Bodegas Aleanna, the winery that he has extraction, and in general the wines spend less owned jointly with Adrianna Catena, daughter time in oak than they used to. of Nicolas Catena since 2009. The wines are a Rousseau has also moved the domaine snapshot of Gualtallary as a zone and Cabernet towards organic farming. In difficult years he Franc as its focal point. Take, for example, its may resort to a dusting of fungicides, but in 2011 El Enemigo Cabernet Franc, a delicious, good vintages no chemical treatments of any energetic wine coming from some of kind are used. He also has instituted minor Mendoza’s highest vineyards, at 1,450m in the modifications in the winery, such as allowing Gualtallary sub-region. the to take its course Cabernet Franc also features – among many without heating, even if this means a other things – in Vigil’s family project. The fermentation of many months. Republic of Chachingo, in his homeland of ​​ Charles Rousseau was always committed to Maipú, consists of a growing number of wines producing wines of finesse and ageability made from Malbec and Cabernet Franc, but rather than explosive power. That is what also from , Monastrell and even Burgundy is all about, and his son sees no Pinot Noir from Patagonia in the very south of reason to change that goal. SB Argentina. All the wines are deliciously fresh and electric – a style rarely seen in Argentina, yet further proof of Vigil’s tireless work in ‘Rousseau wines always impress. There is a teaching the world about the diversity of wines recognisable house style that is consistent and from his country. PT transcends the vintage character. It is the epitome of great Burgundy. This constancy is inspirational and has more to do with a well-practised indepth ‘Alejandro is not only the “complete” winemaker, understanding of what not to do – stepping back he also understands and interprets our diverse from the winemaking – rather than a range of Argentinian terroir with consummate skill.’

Photograph:Atkin/CephasTim specific techniques.’ Blair Walter, Felton Road Juan Pablo Michelini, Zorzal Wines D

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