MARCH 2020

Editors’ Choice Awards It List 2020 The Best New Hotels in the World THE HOTELS ISSUE HOTELS THE In this low-key, high-reward corner of southern Italy, Jacqueline Gifford visits some of the country’s finest hotels and finds a family-style welcome—with just the right degree of sophistication.

Photographs by Paola + Murray

Swimmers cooling off in the Canale del Ciolo, a coastal ravine in the Ionian Sea. Opposite: Carosello, 80 TRAVEL+LEISURE | MARCH 2020 the formal restaurant at Masseria Torre Maizza, near the Puglian town of Fasano. Clockwise from top left: Clara D’Aprile 15th-century watchtower, built to look out for Grilled vegetables at serves herbal tea marauders’ ships. But the high-design touches Masseria San Domenico; and sweets at her the lobby of Borgo trullo outside and level of service were innovative: a state-of- Egnazia; chefs in the Alberobello. the-art thalassotherapy spa, a wood-paneled bar Borgo Egnazia kitchen. with Missoni-print stools where the bartender would serve you a negroni. You could find this luxurious style of family-run hotel along the cliffs of the Amalfi Coast or in the vineyards of Tuscany. But not in Puglia. Since San Domenico’s opening, many stories have been told about Puglia’s scenic towns, like Alberobello, a hilly maze marked by trulli, the region’s now iconic, white-domed conical houses. Or Gallipoli, a breezy, seaside perch of fishmongers and historic churches. There are also two coastlines: to the east, the pebbly beaches of the Adriatic Sea; to the south, the sandy shores of the Ionian. The narrative typically goes that this part of Italy, though not devoid of tourists, is still ripe for discovery. After years of hearing about Puglia, and with a wave of hotel news fresh in my mind, I whisked my husband, Rob, and preschooler son, Bobby, over there last July, the European heat wave in full swing. There were plenty of American tourists posing in front of the trulli in THE GLITTERING, ICE-BLUE pool at Masseria San Alberobello and competing for their own Domenico was the irregular shape and size of a lake. Or minuscule slice of sand at the oft-Instagrammed maybe a small pond. Ah, no matter, I was smitten, and as I beach in Polignano a Mare, a steep coastal town stared at the clear expanse, with its graceful curves, another hewn out of the cliffs. It all made me wonder image kept popping into my mind: my former neighbor’s if parts of Puglia have become overcrowded. pond in Bucks County, Pennsylvania. From a distance—and Maybe. Then I noticed that actual Italians through a child’s eyes—that pond always looked inviting, vacation there, too, flocking to the shores with especially during the dog days of a Northeastern summer. coolers and candy-colored beach umbrellas, Appearances can be deceiving. I would run up, ready to dip which they don’t do in, say, Amalfi or on Lake my toes, only to find algae skimming the surface. Como. Puglia is richer for it. But there were no disappointments lurking in my latest The hotels are just as democratic and pool/pond wonderland, part of a hotel set among the welcoming. What started with Masseria San centuries-old olive trees of Puglia, in the pastoral heel of Domenico—one family determined to showcase southern Italy. It was also very much for adults, with an underrepresented slice of Italy—has loungers perfectly spaced—close enough that you could blossomed, 20-plus years on, into a full-blown tap your partner’s shoulder, not so close that you could renaissance, with a group of like-minded read their book. Wouldn’t you know it, there was even a entrepreneurs opening up places with style, bar under one of those olive trees, with all the fixings for heart, and character. To my mind, they are some an evening Spritz. of the most interesting projects in all of Europe. Located near the town of Fasano, in the Valle d’Itria, Masseria San Domenico opened back in 1996. At the time, “WHAT’S THE CLOSEST THING you have to it signaled a shift for Puglia. The idea of converting the a large pizza?” rustic buildings of a masseria, or farm, into a hotel wasn’t I could sense the desperation in my a novel one. But San Domenico’s local owners, the husband’s voice. We had just checked in to Melpignano family, brought an exacting attention to detail Masseria Torre Maizza after 12 hours of travel, that made this property an outlier—a new, spiffed-up with a tarmac delay at JFK leading to a hairy breed of hotel for this part of Italy. Guests could wander connection in Zurich where one of us carried the sprawling, 40-bedroom estate, where the land had Bobby (I still can’t remember who) while the been tended for more than 800 years, and marvel at the other toted three carry-ons. Frayed nerves, all

82 TRAVEL+LEISURE | MARCH 2020 TRAVELANDLEISURE.COM 83 Plan the Perfect Trip to Puglia

Getting There & Around There are no nonstop flights from the U.S. to Puglia. We flew Swiss (swiss.com) via Zurich to Bari. (Brindisi is another alternative.) Rent a car or arrange for transportation through a ground operator, as taxis can be hard to find.

Where to Stay In northern Puglia, near Fasano, you’ll find Masseria San Domenico (masseria​ sandomenico.com; doubles from $300), a 15th-century farmhouse with a magnificent free- form pool and a thalasso­therapy spa. Borgo Egnazia (borgo​ egnazia.it; doubles from $300) is a a second property us to her apartment modern, highly from the same family as if we were long- stylized take on a that’s just a five-​ lost friends. Puzzovio traditional Puglian minute drive away, is started cooking village, with a another great option. when she was seven Michelin-​starred Palazzo Daniele and now runs a restaurant and one (design​hotels.com; school in the town of the best hotel doubles from $417), of San Cataldo, but boutiques I’ve ever in nearby Gagliano gives lessons in her seen. At Masseria del Capo, is a 19th-​ home on request. I Torre Maizza (rocco​ century town house will never forget her. fortehotels.com; with a well curated We also made a doubles from $367), collection of quick stop in Santa now part of the contemporary art. Maria di Leuca, a Rocco Forte town at the tip of the portfolio, you’ll find What to Do Salento Peninsula airy, farmhouse- Access Italy (access​ with rocky beaches, inspired rooms and italy.net), an a lighthouse, and an enchanting pool operator with deep seaside restaurants. shaded by connections in the Gallipoli, in the bougainvillea. region, arranged southwest, is worth round. The afternoon light was fading, and we were sitting Castello di Ugento most of our tours a day trip: park by at one of a handful of tables by the hotel pool, a perfect Tasting Puglian (castello​diugento. and transportation. the fish market wine with expert com; doubles from They planned our and get lost in the rectangle cocooned by white stone walls, fragrant orange Giuseppe Cupertino $502), in Salento, day trip to Lecce, a maze of streets. trees, and cascading bougainvillea—a feast for the eyes. on a rooftop at is set in a 17th-​ city with rich Through his tour But we were hungry. And the pizza oven was closed. Borgo Egnazia. century castle with Baroque art and operator Indigenus The kitchen did a quick pivot and brought out nine lovingly architecture. We (indigenus.it),​ Aldo decorated rooms strolled past a Melpignano, owner of focaccia flecked with rosemary and a bottle of olive oil, and a state-of-the- sunken Roman Borgo Egnazia, can thick and grassy. We helped ourselves to cucumber-and- Opposite, clockwise art kitchen where amphitheater, but arrange a tour of the mint water from the elegant glass pitchers on the bar from top left: Prawn guests can hone spent most of our town of Alberobello, and ate bread, bread, and more bread, before napping and burrata pizza at their skills. Masseria time learning how to where the trulli are on loungers in the shade of a vine-covered pergola. Torre Maizza; San Le Mandorle roll orecchiette with not to be missed, Domenico’s palatial (masseria​le​ Paola Puzzovio, who, followed by a visit to Wait, why were we stressed again? pool; Spritz time at mandorle.com; along with her the home of historian At Torre Maizza, which is also near Fasano, it’s easy to Torre Maizza. doubles from $313), mother, welcomed Clara D’Aprile. — J.G.

84 TRAVEL+LEISURE | MARCH 2020 TRAVELANDLEISURE.COM 85 Clockwise from above: Bougainvillea blankets Torre Maizza; a pocket of tranquility at Castello di Ugento; San Domenico’s elegant dining room.

forget what you did five hours ago—hell, five minutes ago— and surrender to life in a bubble. The property, which opened in 2006 but just went through an overhaul courtesy of Rocco Forte Hotels, is at once hushed and lively. You pick your moments to find or flee the party at this enclave, which consists of a blistering-white 16th-century farmhouse, a golf course, a pool, a beach club, and now 10 new garden rooms, which brings the total up to 40. Sir Rocco’s sister and the brand’s chief designer, Olga Polizzi, added restrained, thoughtful doses of color and texture throughout Torre Maizza that enhance the lived-in,​ residential feel of the place. A vase of wildflowers decorated the hearth of our suite; a plate from the nearby town of Grottaglie, painted mustard and maroon, was mounted on the wall above. The real show, however, occurs outside—the wild herbs, the flowers, the people-watching. Rosemary, citronella, and myrtle line the pathway that separates the main restaurant, Carosello, from an annex with a small bar and patio, where our trio found ourselves every evening. You see, Carmelo Padellaro holds court from a baby grand piano on the patio. And if you miss him, you miss the entire spirit of Torre Maizza. Padellaro is from Sicily. He wears fabulous hats and

A bird’s-eye view of a beach on the Canale del Ciolo, which sits at the very tip of the heel of Italy. TRAVELANDLEISURE.COM 87 Clockwise from top: The honor bar at Palazzo Daniele; one of the courtyards at Castello di Ugento; a classic pick-me-up at Palazzo Daniele. Italy Puglia Bari

Naples Fasano Alberobello

Brindisi

Lecce

Gallipoli Ugento

Santa Maria di Leuca

Gagliano del Capo

Sicily

The Grand Hall of Justice at Castello di Ugento, with its ceiling frescoes of Neptune and Icarus.

oversize glasses and speaks English with a thick, endearing loud as we wanted. Shoulders relaxed, happy to be awake accent. He loves children, and encourages them to dance at 11 p.m. with a preschooler in Puglia. to Frank Sinatra, maybe a bit of Billy Joel, and southern Italian folk dances like the tarantella. But it’s actually the AFTER THREE DAYS, we left the bubble of Torre Maizza adults who get up and move the most, as if they’re in some with promises to return. A road trip lay ahead of us. The weird trance. They don’t care that strangers from around highway south to Salento, the region at the tip of Puglia, the world are watching them. They just feel free. wound past more of those ancient olive trees. We saw We discovered Padellaro after attempting to take Bobby fields of green and gold that seemed to stretch to the to dinner at Carosello, with its soft lighting, starched white horizon: for a minute, we could close our eyes and imagine linens, and couples locked in quiet conversation. One a world of farms, mules, and not much else. course in...utter failure. Again, a pivot: the team whisked Yet some of the trees’ gnarled branches were utterly away our handmade pasta with chickpeas and mussels and barren, while others had clumps of green intermingled with planted us in front of the pianist, where we could be as gray spiny sticks—skeletons with (Continued on page 110)

88 TRAVEL+LEISURE | MARCH 2020 TRAVELANDLEISURE.COM 89 there’s not much you can do with one- by the gold of the castle’s arches. We’d on the map, however, Petrucci needed Fasano. The property is a stone’s involves carbohydrates. For example, twelfth of a castle, except buy up the talk to other couples over drinks and another act for the palazzo. Enter throw from Masseria San Domenico, we had four pizzas at the hotel’s remaining 11 shares from your then retreat to our respective tables, Thierry Tessier, the founder of roving which his mother runs. The apples casual yet sophisticated Trattoria Mi relatives, which is exactly what he did. briefly glance at the menu, and leave hotel concept 700,000 Heures, who in pop up in vases of water, on tables, Cucina. Please, don’t judge. Several Then what do you do with a whole ourselves in the hands of Puglian chef 2018 chose Daniele as the site of his hidden in corners where you Italians, real Italians, told me that castle, landmarked by the Tommaso Sanguedolce, the Castello’s first location. Then Gabriele Salini, wouldn’t expect to see a green apple. the pizza at Borgo Egnazia was legit: government? You restore it—and wunderkind and secret weapon. founder of G-Rough hotel, in Rome, But there they are, and they are earthy, light, and not overly sauced. uncover a large Norman fresco in the Five years ago, it would have been stepped in last year to manage the perfectly beautiful. They were right, and that’s why we process. You craft nine guest rooms unthinkable that someone like property full-time. You may have heard that Borgo could eat four of them. out of the local carparo stone, then Sanguedolce should choose sleepy You pass the palazzo’s main gate, Egnazia is where Justin Timberlake One night, Melpignano took us to decorate the place with heirlooms— Ugento over Rome or Milan. But the expecting to find the mosaic stone and Jessica Biel got married. That is meet a friend, Clara D’Aprile, an (Puglia, continued from page 89) like the 1930s Poltrona Frau couch you chef—a violin string of a man, floors, and the frescoes, and the walls true, but it is also true that this place evangelist for preserving Puglian sat on as a child. And you turn part of humming with energy—is thrilled to overrun with ivy. Then you get a jolt is by far the most ambitious property tradition and culture. So much so that living tissue attached. Xylella your whole castle into a full-fledged be a part of Salento’s resurgence. He is of the contemporary: custom in the region. We ended the trip she has turned her trullo home near fastidiosa, a bacterium that slowly kills cooking school, in partnership with touched that you’ve made it this far wardrobes by Palomba Serafini in the there because we couldn’t go to that Alberobello into a living museum. olive trees, has infected one-sixth of the Culinary Institute of America and south in Puglia, that you are game to dimly lit, spare suites and an open part of the world and miss it: an Rooms are sparsely decorated with Puglia’s groves, devastating farmers the Italian chef Odette Fada, where eat dishes like tender, savory cuttlefish kitchen in the back of the house that entirely new village built from tufo simple wooden furniture and and oil producers. (Typically, more students train for seven months a year. over julienned green beans, accented wouldn’t look out of place in a stone, modeled after an old Puglian religious iconography, as they would than 40 percent of Italy’s olive oil D’Amore and his wife and business by artful splashes of squid ink. On our Milanese apartment. We quickly village, with a central piazza; have been generations ago. She gave comes from the area.) Scientists are partner, Diana Bianchi, live on the last night at the Castello, we popped parked it by the pool, where the whitewashed, linen-bedecked guest us all rosaries made from olive pits working on a cure, but they aren’t piano nobile, or second floor. “Every upstairs to see those frescoes again, loungers are shaded by a jet-black rooms; and evening festivals of song and toy horses made from acorns there yet. night, we welcome people from all their blue and gold decorative leaves wall with three cacti in front, like alien and dance—all antidotes to the (you had to get creative before Castello di Ugento, by contrast, is over the world,” explained Bianchi, a from the 17th century as vivid as the sentinels flown in from Arizona. intense summer heat. YouTube). Melpignano and D’Aprile a story of restoration and rebirth. A willowy blonde with a graceful smile, colors of the night in the 21st. Palazzo Daniele is a place that “It was limiting with the masseria told me they plan to build a museum, passion project that defies all rational as she led us from a courtyard brings a pared-down, global design concept, so there was a need for a repository for the old ways of thought. If one couple can turn a through a tiny passageway to their JUST 20 MINUTES away, in the sensibility to a fairly traditional locale something like Borgo,” explained Puglia, which are becoming crumbling 17th-century castle into walled garden, open to guests. There: equally trapped-in-amber town of and somehow ties it all together. You Melpignano, who is often on site, increasingly endangered. a nine-room hotel and state-of-the- lemon trees and 250-year-old Gagliano del Capo, lies the equally look and touch and wonder how this monitoring his 40-acre, 10-year-old D’Aprile showed the three of us art cooking school—powered by pomegranate trees, a respite within a charming Palazzo Daniele. Roman all works, but it does. I paused in front paradise. “My desire was always to her backyard, where fairy lights geothermal energy drawn from 23 respite. Bianchi then glided—and we entrepreneur Francesco Petrucci of a quirky piece of art: an altar of create a hub, to talk about Puglia and illuminated a long table and another specially built wells—then maybe a followed—up a staircase to a series of inherited this gem—a slightly faded, rocks, a piece of coral resting on an bring the best of Puglia in.” family of three (a mom and two cure for the trees isn’t out of reach. salons empty of furniture but not 1861 family pile—in 2015. “I am very open book, and candles set on top of a You don’t so much vacation at daughters) were the other guests. The hotel hovers like a cloud of soul. There: a bold Baroque fresco Roman, but Puglia is like my second white lace cloth. Not an antique, but a Borgo as float, from the grand lobby They spoke no English, we spoke no above Ugento, a sun-bleached town depicting Venus and Cupid frolicking home,” explained Petrucci, who splits site-specific work by the artist Niccolò with its soaring ceiling and spiral Italian, but we spoke the universal in Salento, where, over the centuries, on the ceiling. his time between the capital and Morgan Gandolfi. What else might one staircase to the subterranean spa and language of liking good food. First: the Romans, Greeks, Normans, The beauty of Castello di Ugento is a farm not far from the palazzo, discover in this fantastical piece of the pools—oh, the pools. There are fried zucchini flowers. Then a Ottomans, Spanish, and French all left that you revel in the historical details, where he produces olive oil—just theater? “My grandmother used to three outdoors, and though we were cialledda, the salad made of stale their mark. It was the Normans who and then you socialize in the way that 13 gallons per year, for his family. measure all the heights of her kids, relegated to the kids’ pool, we never bread, tomatoes, onions, and basil; built the foundation of the Castello in travelers of a certain spirit and After living abroad, Petrucci moved including my mom, by marking them felt like we were missing out. My then zucchini with fresh wild mint. the 11th century, long before it was sensibility tend to do, by putting down back to Italy in 2008. To the lawyer on the wall,” Petrucci told me. “The husband and I took turns floating in We called it quits after our fennel expanded and acquired by the their phones and making polite turned art collector, rural Puglia felt notches are behind the door in one its chilled salt water on an inflatable liqueur, but Bobby had made friends D’Amore family in 1643. conversation with total strangers. Each like a blank slate. His first project, the guest room—anybody staying there watermelon while sipping rosé, then with one of the girls, and they were When his mother passed away night my husband and I would step now 10-year-old Capo d’Arte, a will get to see it.” Maybe next time. splashing with our son, who told us off exploring. So there you have it: in 2003, Massimo D’Amore—a out of our spare, soothing room to the contemporary art festival, has drawn that this was the best place he’d ever Mom and Dad’s shoulders were former executive at PepsiCo and a central courtyard and join new friends such artists as Chinese photographer ALDO MELPIGNANO WON’T confirm been in his life. relaxed, and we were all once again 22nd-generation D’Amore—inherited in the fading light, as it shifted from and painter Yang Fudong and Indian how many green apples there are The resort invites you to live large, awake at 11 p.m.—happy to be alive, one-twelfth of a castle. I suppose orange to pink to a deep cobalt, offset sculptor Shilpa Gupta. To put the town at Borgo Egnazia, his resort near and on an Italian vacation, that usually and in Puglia.

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