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Silk-Weaving in Sweden During the 19Th Century. Textiles and Texts - an Evaluation of the Source Material
Thesis for the degree of Licentiate of Philosophy SILK-WEAVING IN SWEDEN DURING THE 19TH CENTURY. Textiles and texts - An evaluation of the source material. Martin Ciszuk Translation Magnus Persson www.enodios.se Department of Product and Production Development Design & Human Factors CHALMERS UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY Gothenburg, Sweden 2012 Silk-weaving in Sweden during the 19th century. Textiles and texts - An evaluation of the source material. Martin Ciszuk © Martin Ciszuk, 2012 Technical report No. 71 ISSN 1652-9243 Department of Product and Production Development Chalmers University of Technology SE-412 96 Gothenburg SWEDEN Telephone: +46 (0)31- 772 10 00 Illustration: Brocatell, interior silk woven for Stockholm Royal pallace by Meyersson silk mill in Stock- holm 1849, woven from silk cultivated in Sweden, Eneberg collection 11.183-9:2 (Photo: Jan Berg Textilmuseet, Borås). Printed by Strokirk-Landströms AB Lidköping, Sweden, 2012 www.strokirk-landstroms.se Silk-weaving in Sweden during the 19th century. Textiles and texts - An evaluation of the source material. Martin Ciszuk Department of Product and Production Development Chalmers University of Technology Abstract Silk-weaving in Sweden during the 19th century. Textiles and texts - An evaluation of the source material. With the rich material available, 19th century silk-weaving invites to studies on industrialisation processes. The purpose of this licentiate thesis is to present and discuss an empirical material regarding silk production in Sweden in the 19th century, to examine the possibilities and problems of different kinds of materials when used as source materials, and to describe how this material can be systematized and analysed in relation to the perspective of a textile scientific interpretation. -
Cotton and the Community: Exploring Changing Concepts of Identity and Community on Lancashire’S Cotton Frontier C.1890-1950
Cotton and the Community: Exploring Changing Concepts of Identity and Community on Lancashire’s Cotton Frontier c.1890-1950 By Jack Southern A thesis submitted in partial fulfillment for the requirements for the degree of a PhD, at the University of Central Lancashire April 2016 1 i University of Central Lancashire STUDENT DECLARATION FORM I declare that whilst being registered as a candidate of the research degree, I have not been a registered candidate or enrolled student for another aware of the University or other academic or professional institution. I declare that no material contained in this thesis has been used for any other submission for an academic award and is solely my own work. Signature of Candidate ________________________________________________ Type of Award: Doctor of Philosophy School: Education and Social Sciences ii ABSTRACT This thesis explores the evolution of identity and community within north east Lancashire during a period when the area gained regional and national prominence through its involvement in the cotton industry. It examines how the overarching shared culture of the area could evolve under altering economic conditions, and how expressions of identity fluctuated through the cotton industry’s peak and decline. In effect, it explores how local populations could shape and be shaped by the cotton industry. By focusing on a compact area with diverse settlements, this thesis contributes to the wider understanding of what it was to live in an area dominated by a single industry. The complex legacy that the cotton industry’s decline has had is explored through a range of settlement types, from large town to small village. -
Long Reviews
University of Huddersfield Repository Catterall, Stephen Book review: Class against Class: The Communist Party in Britain between the Wars, Matthew Worley, I. B. Tauris, 2002 Original Citation Catterall, Stephen (2006) Book review: Class against Class: The Communist Party in Britain between the Wars, Matthew Worley, I. B. Tauris, 2002. Manchester Region History Review, 17 (2). pp. 127-129. ISSN 0952-4320 This version is available at http://eprints.hud.ac.uk/id/eprint/8268/ The University Repository is a digital collection of the research output of the University, available on Open Access. Copyright and Moral Rights for the items on this site are retained by the individual author and/or other copyright owners. Users may access full items free of charge; copies of full text items generally can be reproduced, displayed or performed and given to third parties in any format or medium for personal research or study, educational or not-for-profit purposes without prior permission or charge, provided: • The authors, title and full bibliographic details is credited in any copy; • A hyperlink and/or URL is included for the original metadata page; and • The content is not changed in any way. For more information, including our policy and submission procedure, please contact the Repository Team at: [email protected]. http://eprints.hud.ac.uk/ MRHR 17ii Maidment volume.qxd 24/07/2006 10:22 Page 127 LONG REVIEWS Matthew Worley Class against Class: The Communist Party in Britain between the Wars London: I. B. Tauris, 2002, x + 352pp., h/b, ISBN 1–86064–747–2 Worley’s contribution is concerned with Worley lucidly develops this theme further the debate over the early development of in arguing that the debate within the the Communist Party of Great Britain CPGB reflected a wider debate within (CPGB) during the late 1920s and early international communism and led to a 1930s in a phase known as communism’s ‘leftward’ lurch which confirmed the split ‘Third Period’ following the Third with the Labour Party. -
Basic of Textiles
BASIC OF TEXTILES BFA(F) 202 CC 5 Directorate of Distance Education SWAMI VIVEKANAND SUBHARTI UNIVERSITY MEERUT 250005 UTTAR PRADESH SIM MOUDLE DEVELOPED BY: Reviewed by the study Material Assessment Committed Comprising: 1. Dr. N.K.Ahuja, Vice Chancellor Copyright © Publishers Grid No part of this publication which is material protected by this copyright notice may be reproduce or transmitted or utilized or store in any form or by any means now know or here in after invented, electronic, digital or mechanical. Including, photocopying, scanning, recording or by any informa- tion storage or retrieval system, without prior permission from the publisher. Information contained in this book has been published by Publishers Grid and Publishers. and has been obtained by its author from sources believed to be reliable and are correct to the best of their knowledge. However, the publisher and author shall in no event be liable for any errors, omission or damages arising out of this information and specially disclaim and implied warranties or merchantability or fitness for any particular use. Published by: Publishers Grid 4857/24, Ansari Road, Darya ganj, New Delhi-110002. Tel: 9899459633, 7982859204 E-mail: [email protected], [email protected] Printed by: A3 Digital Press Edition : 2021 CONTENTS 1. Fiber Study 5-64 2. Fiber and its Classification 65-175 3. Yarn and its Types 176-213 4. Fabric Manufacturing Techniques 214-260 5. Knitted 261-302 UNIT Fiber Study 1 NOTES FIBER STUDY STRUCTURE 1.1 Learning Objective 1.2 Introduction 1.3 Monomer, Polymer, Degree of polymerization 1.4 Student Activity 1.5 Properties of Fiber: Primary & Secondary 1.6 Summary 1.7 Glossary 1.8 Review Questions 1.1 LEARNING OBJECTIVE After studying this unit you should be able to: ● Describe the Natural Fiber. -
Identifying Woven Textiles 1750-1950 Identification
Identifying Woven Textiles 1750–1950 DATS in partnership with the V&A 1 Identifying Woven Textiles 1750–1950 This information pack has been produced to accompany two one-day workshops taught by Katy Wigley (Director, School of Textiles) and Mary Schoeser (Hon. V&A Senior Research Fellow), held at the V&A Clothworkers’ Centre on 19 April and 17 May 2018. The workshops are produced in collaboration between DATS and the V&A. The purpose of the workshops is to enable participants to improve the documentation and interpretation of collections and make them accessible to the widest audience. Participants will have the chance to study objects at first hand to help increase their confidence in identifying woven textile materials and techniques. This information pack is intended as a means of sharing the knowledge communicated in the workshops with colleagues and the wider public and is also intended as a stand-alone guide for basic weave identification. Other workshops / information packs in the series: Identifying Textile Types and Weaves Identifying Printed Textiles in Dress 1740–1890 Identifying Handmade and Machine Lace Identifying Fibres and Fabrics Identifying Handmade Lace Front Cover: Lamy et Giraud, Brocaded silk cannetille (detail), 1878. This Lyonnais firm won a silver gilt medal at the Paris Exposition Universelle with a silk of this design, probably by Eugene Prelle, their chief designer. Its impact partly derives from the textures within the many-coloured brocaded areas and the markedly twilled cannetille ground. Courtesy Francesca Galloway. 2 Identifying Woven Textiles 1750–1950 Table of Contents Page 1. Introduction 4 2. Tips for Dating 4 3. -
The Textile Mills of Lancashire the Legacy
ISBN 978-1 -907686-24-5 Edi ted By: Rachel Newman Design, Layout, and Formatting: Frtml Cover: Adam Parsons (Top) Tile wcnving shed of Queen Street Mill 0 11 tile day of Published by: its clo~urc, 22 September 2016 Oxford Ar.:haeology North, (© Anthony Pilli11g) Mill 3, Moor Lane Mills, MoorLnJ1e, (Bottom) Tile iconic, Grade Lancaster, /-listed, Queen Street Mill, LAllQD Jlnrlc S.lfke, lire last sun,ini11g example ~fan in fad steam Printed by: powered weaving mill with its Bell & Bain Ltd original loom s in the world 303, Burn field Road, (© Historic England) Thornlieba n k, Glasgow Back Cover: G46 7UQ Tlrt' Beer 1-ln/1 at Hoi till'S Mill, Cfitlwroe ~ Oxford Archaeolog)' Ltd The Textile Mills of Lancashire The Legacy Andy Phelps Richard Gregory Ian Miller Chris Wild Acknowledgements This booklet arises from the historical research and detailed surveys of individual mill complexes carried out by OA North during the Lancashire Textile Mills Survey in 2008-15, a strategic project commissioned and funded by English Heritage (now Historic England). The survey elicited the support of many people, especial thanks being expressed to members of the Project Steering Group, particularly Ian Heywood, for representing the Lancashire Conservation Officers, Ian Gibson (textile engineering historian), Anthony Pilling (textile engineering and architectural historian), Roger Holden (textile mill historian), and Ken Robinson (Historic England). Alison Plummer and Ken Moth are also acknowledged for invaluable contributions to Steering Group discussions. Particular thanks are offered to Darren Ratcliffe (Historic England), who fulfilled the role of Project Assurance Officer and provided considerable advice and guidance throughout the course of the project. -
Weaving Books and Monographs
Tuesday, September 10, 2002 Page: 1 ---. 10 Mujeres y Textil en 3d/10 Women and Textile Into 3. [Mexico City, Mexico: Universidad Nacional Autonoma de Mexico. Galeria Aristos, 1975], 1975. ---. 10 Mujeres y Textil en 3d/10 Women and Textile Into 3. [Mexico City, Mexico: Universidad Nacional Autonoma de Mexico. Galeria Aristos, 1975], 1975. ---. 100 Jahre J. Hecking; Buntspinnerei und Weberei. Wiesbaden, Verlag f?r Wirtschaftspublizistik Bartels, 1958. ---. 100 Years of Native American Arts: Six Washington Cultures. [Tacoma, Washington: Tacoma Art Museum, 1988], 1988. ---. 1000 [i.e. Mil] Años de Tejido en la Argentina: [Exposici?n] 24 de Mayo Al 18 Junio de 1978. Buenos Aires: Ministerio de Cultura y Educaci?n, Secretaría de Cultura, Instituto Nacional de Antropología, 1978. ---. 1000 Years of Art in Poland. [London, Great Britain: Royal Academy of Arts, 1970], 1970. ---. 101 Ways to Weave Better Cloth: Selected Articles of Proven Interest to Weavers Chosen from the Pages of Textile Industries. Atlanta, GA.: Textile Indistries, 1960. ---. 125 Jahre Mech. Baumwoll-Spinnerei und Weberei, Augsburg. [Augsburg, 1962. ---. 1977 HGA Education Directory. West Hartford, CT: Handweavers Guild of America, 1978. ---. 1982 Census of Manufactures. Preliminary Report Industry Series. Weaving Mills. [Washington, DC: U.S. Dept. of Commerce, Bureau of, 1984. ---. 1987 Census of Manufactures. Industry Series. Weaving and Floor Covering Mills, Industries 2211, 2221, 2231, 2241, and 2273. Washington, DC: U.S. Dept. of Commerce, Bureau of, 1990. ---. 1987 Census of Manufactures. Preliminary Report. Industry Series. Weaving and Floor Covering Mills: Industries 2211, 2221, 2241, and 2273. [Washington, DC: U.S. Dept. of Commerce, Bureau of, 1994. ---. 1992 Census of Manufactures. -
The Jacquard Machine
The Jacquard Machine By Yoshito Miura, Yoshinosuke Nakajyo and Kunio Suzuki, Members,TMSJ Kyoto Technological University, Kyoto Abstract This article looks into problems which would accompany an attempt to increase the speed of looms equipped with a jacquard machine. Each lingo vibrates violently with an increase in speed. The grade of its vibrations was judged by the distribution of points of the lingo's descents. As a way to judge that state, sparks were discharged from a lingo placed on special re- cording paper. A controlled plate for the harness was devised in order to narrow the range of distribution of points of the lingo's descent. A plate was also devised to control the vibrations of the harness. The defective parts resulting from a speed increase were improved, and the warp tension and the weight of the lingo were investigated. The results of these efforts suggest that the speed of a loom equipped with a jacquard machine, at present, 130 rpm, can be increased to a maximum of 180 rpm. 1. Introduction be Y=--:;:2(1) ..... The speed of a loom equipped with a jacquard where a is the distance between the cloth fell and the forward surface of the shuttle; b, the distance machine is usually 90 to 130 rpm., considerably lower than the speed of a loom without a jacquard machine. between the cloth fell and the counpling or the It is mainly because of the shedding equipment and heald : and c, the height of the shuttle. the shuttle change equipment, but the shuttle change Assuming that N rpm is the speed of the loom will not be discussed here. -
Were British Cotton Entrepreneurs Technologically Backward?
Munich Personal RePEc Archive Were british cotton entrepreneurs technologically backward? Ciliberto, Federico 10 October 2010 Online at https://mpra.ub.uni-muenchen.de/38645/ MPRA Paper No. 38645, posted 13 Jun 2012 00:45 UTC Were British Cotton Entrepreneurs Technologically Backward? Firm-Level Evidence on the Adoption of Ring-Spinning. Federico Cilibertoy Department of Economics University of Virginia May 2010 Abstract I study the slow adoption of ring spinning in Great Britain’s cotton industry at the end of the 19th century, which has been used as evidence of British entrepreneurs’ declining e¢ciency and conservatism (Musson [1959], Aldcroft, [1964], Lazonick [1981, 1981b]). To this purpose I use …rm-level data from all of Lancashire’s cotton …rms over several years. The data are from Worrall’s The Cotton Spinners and Manufacturers’ Directory for the years 1885, 1886-1887, 1890, 1894, 1902, and 1910. First, I show that the vertical organization of the industry, with its …rms specializing in spin- ning or weaving, did not act as an impediment to the adoption of the ring spinning technology, as was argued by Lazonick. In particular, I show the following: i) non-integrated …rms were the …rst to adopt rings in Great Britain; ii) the large majority of …rms that adopted rings were incumbents; iii) vertically integrated …rms that were spinning only either twist or weft yarn were still in existence in 1910; and iv) only a negligible number of …rms changed their organizational structure upon adopting ring spinning. I also show that a large fraction of …rms installed very small numbers of ring spindles upon the adoption of ring spinning, suggesting that …rms were slowly adopting ring spindles to replace old mule spindles rather than transitioning over to ring spinning at a single point in time. -
Mügrip® Mbj8 1/1380
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATION ® Reed width (max.) 1380 mm MÜGRIP MBJ8 1/1380 Nominal width (max.) 1346 mm Jacquard machine (sheeding device) SPE3 series Weave types Taff et Semi-Satin Satin Warp density (ends/cm) 54,6 88,82 109,2 Harness settings Label standards as per PZ 3003 Weft feeder Electronically controlled for up to 12 colours IRO Luna X3 Weft insert system Universal rapier for various yarn counts between 22 and 1400 dtex. Lightweight designed rapier head for outstanding long operational life Cross beam Rapier drive for smooth weft feeding with the unique vertical reed beat-up and for labels and high weft density fabrics optimised temple bar Machine control MLC machine control / network ready and MÜDATA® M series for the entire Label Weaving Machine machine monitoring and regulation Main drive VARISPEED – Energy-effi cient machine drive with programmable speed for labels and pictures with slit selvedges changes within the pattern design Fabric take-off drive VARIPICK – Energy-effi cient fabric take off drive for programmable weft density variations from 18 to 120 picks per cm within the pattern design Warp let-off drive Energy-effi cient and electronically controlled warp let-off drive with warp tension monitoring up to a warp beam diameter of 800 mm Selvedge formation TC2 cutting system for a good on loom selvedge quality starting from a minimum width of 6 mm. Due to the same electrical resistance an identical cutting temperature across the entire fabric width can be reached DIMENSIONS Width: 3940 mm (with thread feeder) 2955 mm (without thread feeder) Depth: 2030 mm Height: 3645 mm (machine) 3875 mm (room) Copyright @ 2019 by Jakob Müller AG Frick 5070 Frick Switzerland Fascination of Ribbons and Narrow Fabrics Printed in Italy. -
GIPE-020070-Contents.Pdf
SERVANTS Oll' INDIA SOCIETY'S LIBRARY, , POOHA ,. FOR INTERNAL CIRCULATION ITo be returned on or before the last date stamped below ~.5I1A y :g6 .... namtRJayaraG Gadgillibrary Ilm~ II11I a~ IUlium lUll mlill GIPE-PUN~-020070 X91(\'<\ 1 9. '2.. .N ,; \t i-{2--- ~co70 t Sf i ................... ~........... , .. REPORT OF TIlE. FACT .. FINDING COMMITTEE (HANDLOOM AND MILLS) PUBLISHEIl BY THE MANAGER OF PUBLICATIONS, DELHI PRINTED BY THE MANAGER, GOVERNMENT OF INDIA 'P'RESS, OALCUTTA 1942 List of Agents in India from whom Government of India Publications are available. AlIBOTTABAD-Bngllsh Book .Store. DHARWAB-Sbrl Sbankar Xarnataka Bbandara. AGRA- English Book Depot, Taj Road. PEROZEPORE-Bngllsh Book Depot. Indfan Army Book Depot, Dayalbagh. GW ALIOB-laln II; Bros., M....... lL 1I., Barala NatJooal Book H01Il!e, leomondl. HYDERABAD (DECCAN)- AHMEDABAD- Dom1n1on Book Conoeru, Hydergnda. Chandra Kant Cblman Lal Vom. Hyderabad Book Depot, Cbadergbat. H. L. College of Commerce C<H>perative Store, Ltd. lAIPUB-Garg Book Co., Trlpolla lIa&ar. AJ:MEBr-Bantblya &: Co., Ltd., Station Road. KARACIII- Aero Store&. AXOLA-BakshJ, K. G. xr. Standard BookataIL ALLAHABAD- • Ventral Book Depot, 44, lobDatongan\. KARACHI (SADAR)-Manager, SI.nd Governmm Depot and Record OlBce. X1tablstan. 17·A, City Road. Ram N araln Lal, I, Bank Road. LAHORE- Imperiall'1lblishlng Co., 99, RaIlway Road. Superintendent, Prlntlug and Statlouery, U. P. Kansll &; Co., K ....... N. C~ 9, Commerclal B. Wheeler &: Co., K ....... A. H. TbeMa1l. lIANGALORB CITY-Premier Book Co. llalhotra &: Co., ll....... U. P~ Poet Box No. II< lIARODA-East and West Book H01Il!e. )llnerva Book Shop, Auarllall Street. lIELGAUM-Model Book Depot, Xhade lIaaar. -
Pavendar Bharathidasan College of Arts and Science Department of Aparel and Fashion Technology
PAVENDAR BHARATHIDASAN COLLEGE OF ARTS AND SCIENCE DEPARTMENT OF APAREL AND FASHION TECHNOLOGY SUBJECT : INDIAN TEXTILE, EMBROIDERY AND COSTUMES SUB CODE: 16SCCAF4 CLASS: II AFT UNIT-I ORIGIN OF COSTUMES PART-A 1. What is a human needs and development of clothing? Social scientists have been discussing for a long time as to what motivated human being to begin to wear clothes. The explanations most often by the experts are Protection, Modestly, Self-adornment. Each of these theories based the development of clothing on the desire to satisfy the human needs and wants. 2. What is a stronger than fashion? Modesty is based on tradition also because tradition is stronger than fashion and basic necessity. Traditional heavy garments of Arab women in extreme heat. The lack of clothing worn in extreme cold. These are classic examples of the importance of traditional values over desire for protective and modesty. 3. Define Beginning of costume. Since the first people put on the first pieces of clothing, what people wear has been in a constant change. Today changes are mostly related to style or fashion but for thousands of year’s change in clothes were made out of necessity. The first clues about clothes date back to around 75,000 to 100,000 years, No written records exist from those days. Painting , Cutting and Tattooing. 4. Draped garments of different civilization were called as follows: Draped fabric has another advantage of taking on a variety of shapes depending on how it is draped. Egyptians - Schenti Greeks - Chiton and himation Romans - Togas and stolas India - Saris and dhotis 5.