HOMAGE to LANCASHIRE: the COTTON INDUSTRY, 1945-65. By

Total Page:16

File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb

HOMAGE to LANCASHIRE: the COTTON INDUSTRY, 1945-65. By HOMAGE TO LANCASHIRE: THE COTTON INDUSTRY, 1945-65. by John Singleton B.A. Lancaster, M.Sc. London (L.S.E.). A THESIS SUBMITTED FOR THE DEGREE OF DOCTOR OF PHILOSOPHY IN ECONOMICS AT THE UNIVERSITY OF LANCASTER. LANCASTER SEPTEMBER, 1986. ProQuest Number: 11003725 All rights reserved INFORMATION TO ALL USERS The quality of this reproduction is dependent upon the quality of the copy submitted. In the unlikely event that the author did not send a com plete manuscript and there are missing pages, these will be noted. Also, if material had to be removed, a note will indicate the deletion. uest ProQuest 11003725 Published by ProQuest LLC(2018). Copyright of the Dissertation is held by the Author. All rights reserved. This work is protected against unauthorized copying under Title 17, United States C ode Microform Edition © ProQuest LLC. ProQuest LLC. 789 East Eisenhower Parkway P.O. Box 1346 Ann Arbor, Ml 48106- 1346 ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS. I would like to express my gratitude to a number of people who have helped in the preparation of this work. * I am indebted to Baloo, John Channon, Maurice Kirby, Mary Rose, Bob Rothschild, and Jim Taylor for their invaluable comments on earlier drafts of various chapters; to Marguerite Dupree for allowing me to consult the Streat Diaries at Cambridge; and to the late Elizabeth Brunner for arranging my return to Lancaster in 1983. There are two people who deserve special thanks: John King, for being an efficient, accessible, and constructive supervisor; and Oliver Westall, for his encouragement and guidance over the last eight years. ABSTRACT. HOMAGE TO LANCASHIRE: THE COTTON INDUSTRY, 1945-65. This thesis analyzes the fortunes of the U.K. cotton industry during two sharply contrasting periods: 1945-51 and 1951-65. Chapters are devoted to government policy, investment, labour practices, coljusive agreements, and changes in the structure of the industry. During World War Two British cotton textile production was concentrated in a nucleus of mills. After the war output and exports expanded within the constraints set by a chronic shortage of labour. In the late 1940s the Attlee government regarded cotton as a spearhead of the national export drive, and the temporary elimination of Japanese competition ensured that cloth woven in Lancashire was in high demand throughout the world. By the early 1950s Japan's cotton industry was fully recovered from its wartime depredations, while India, Hong Kong, and Pakistan were rapidly emerging as major exporters of cotton textiles. Lancashire's fate was sealed. Decline continued unabated until the remnants of the industry were absorbed by the man-made fibre producers during the 1960s. 'Homage to Lancashire' places the decline of the cotton industry within the context of British de-industrialization. Britain was the technological leader in textiles when the industry was established in iv the late eighteenth century. By the mid twentieth century most countries had access to the same technology as Britain. Consequently the centre of gravity of the cotton industry passed to Asia with its lower labour costs. The tragedy is that this did not happen earlier. 200,000 workers were employed in Lancashire"s^mills during the 1950s, representing a serious misallocation of resources, and illustrating Britain's failure to secure an expeditious transfer of factors of production from declining industries to those with a long-term future. v Contents. Acknowledgements Abstract List of tables Abbreviations 1 COTTON AND THE DE-INDUSTRIALIZATION OF BRITAIN 2 PLANNING FOR COTTON, 1945-51 3 LABOUR SUPPLY IN THE COTTON INDUSTRY, 1945-51 4 TIME AND MOTION: WORKLOADS AND WAGE LISTS IN THE COTTON INDUSTRY, 1945-50 5 INVESTMENT IN THE LANCASHIRE COTTON INDUSTRY, 1945-51 6 DECLINE AND FALL: THE LANCASHIRE COTTON INDUSTRY, 1950-70 Appendix I: British exports to W. Africa, South Africa, and Australia Appendix II: An accounting procedure 7 INVESTMENT IN THE LANCASHIRE COTTON INDUSTRY, 1950-65 8 LABOUR IN THE COTTON INDUSTRY, 1950-65 9 IN RESTRAINT OF TRADE: THE COTTON INDUSTRY, PRICE FIXING, AND THE CAMPAIGN FOR PROTECTION, 1950-65 10 CONCENTRATION IN THE COTTON INDUSTRY, 1950-70 11 THE END OF THE LINE Bibliography vi List of Tables. 2.1 The British cotton and allied textiles industry, 1937-50 61 3.1 Employment and machine activity in cotton spinning, 1945-51 85 3.2 Employment and machine activity in cotton weaving, 1945-51 86 5.1 U.K. output, exports, and imports of ring spindles, 1937-51 179 i 5.2 World cotton spinning capacity, 1939-50 181 5.3 U.K. output, exports, and imports of automatic looms, 1936-52 183 5.4 World cotton and rayon weaving capacity, 1936-52 184 5.5 Demand and capacity utilization in the British cotton textile industry, 1937-50 194 5.6 Index of cotton textile shares, 1938-51 196 5.7 Net profits and textile machinery prices in the Lancashire cotton industry, 1930-51 199 5.8 Cost savings from re-equipment, 1948 203 6.1 The share of U.K. cloth exports in world trade, 1937-68 226 6.2 The U.K. cotton and allied textiles spinning industry, 1950-70 227 6.3 The U.K. cotton and allied textiles weaving industry, 1950-70 228 6.4 U.K. exports of cotton cloth to selected markets, 1938-69 229 6.5 British cloth imports from selected countries, 1938-69 230 6.6 Percentages unemployed and on short-time in the cotton industry, 1950-70 237 6.7 Factors accounting for the decline in employment in the U.K. cotton industry, 1950-70 253 6.8 Prices of British and overseas cloth in the U.K. market, Jan.-Feb. 1962 259 6.9 Comparative production costs: 20s yarn, 1967 260 vi i 6 . 10 Comparative production costs: cotton/ polyester shirting cloth, 1967 261 6 . 11 Cloth exports to British West Africa, 1937-69 268 6 . 12 Cloth exports to South Africa, 1938-70 269 6. 13 Cloth exports to Australia, 1938-70 270 7. 1 Productive capacity and excess capacity in the spinning section, 1950-65 283 % 7.2 Productive capacity and excess capacity in the weaving section, 1950-65 284 7.3 Automatic and semi-automatic looms as a proportion of all looms in place in selected countries, 1939-64 285 7.4 Comparative investment expenditure per operative in the cotton industries of selected countries, 1954-63 291 7.5 Ring spindles in the course of erection, 1951-7 292 7.6 Looms in the course of erection, 1952-8 293 7.7 Cotton textile share prices, 1950-64 298 7.8 Net profits of the leading cotton textile combines, 1950-65 302 7.9 Net profits of independent cotton textile companies, 1950-65 303 7. 10 Export prices of new ring spindles and automatic looms, 1950-60 305 7. 11 Shuttleless looms as a percentage of all looms in selected cotton industries, 1958-68 322 7. 12 The case for re-equipment in spinning, 1968 326 7. 13 The case for re-equipment in weaving, 1968 327 8 . 1 Shift systems in the British cotton industry, 1954-64 355 8.2 Machine hours worked per year in selected cotton industries 356 8.3 Machine complements for Lancashire loom weavers, 1948-55 363 8.4 Unemployment in cotton, 1950-70 369 VI 11 9. 1 Prices of raw cotton, yarn, and cloth, 1946-64 397 9.2 Rayon cloth prices, 1952-64 409 10. 1 U.K. cotton industry: size of firm, 1939-58 452 10.2 Spindles and looms in vertically integrated (spinning-weaving) firms as a percentage of total spinning and weaving capacity, 1939-56 453 10.3 Five firm concentration ratios in cotton and allied textiles, 1959-68 457 10.4 Concentration in industry groups: shares of five largest firms in manufacturing net output, 1957-69 458 ix Abbreviations. A.E.R.: American Economic Review. A.W.A.: Amalgamated Weavers' Association. B.S.D.A.: British Spinners' and Doublers' Association Cardroom Workers: National Association of Card, Blowing, and Ring Room Operatives. C.B.C.: Cotton Board Conference Papers. C.B.Q.S.R.: Cotton Board Quarterly Statistical Review. C.J.E.: Cambridge Journal of Economics. C.M.C.: Cotton Manufacturing Commission. C.S.M.A.: Cotton Spinners' and Manufacturers' Association. C.S.O.: Central Statistical Office. Ec.H.R.: Economic History Review. E.J.: Economic Journal. F.M.C.S.A.: Federation of Master Cotton Spinners' and Manufacturers' Associations. G.A.T.T.: General Agreement on Tariffs and Trade. G.M.R.O.: Greater Manchester Record Office. I.F.M.C.S.A.: International Federation of Master Cotton Spinners' and Manufacturers' Associations. J.C.C.T.O.: Joint Committee of Cotton Trade Organisations. J.E.H.: Journal of Economic History. J.P.K.E.: Journal of Post Keynesian Economics. J.R.S.S.: Journal of the Royal Statistical Society. L.R.O.: Lancashire Record Office. Manchester School: Manchester School of Social and Economic Studies. O.E.C.D.: Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development. O.E.P.: Oxford Economic Papers. X Operative Spinners: Amalgamated Association of Operative Cotton Spinners and Twiners. P.R.O.: Public Record Office. Q.J.E.: Quarterly Journal of Economics. R.W.A.: Rayon Weaving Association. U.T.F.W.A.: United Textile Factory Workers' Association. 1 Chapter 1. COTTON AND THE DE-INDUSTRIALIZATION OF BRITAIN. The mills of Lancashire are silent. Little remains of am industry which once dominated Britain's overseas trade, and inspired a mixture of horror amd admiration aimong foreign visitors. Recently, the Bolton steeplejack Fred DibneLh has become a television celebrity as a * result of his skilful demolition of mill chimneys.
Recommended publications
  • CURRICULUM(CBCS) TEXTILE ENGINEERING (3 to 8 Semester)
    Himachal Pradesh Technical University, Hamirpur (H.P.) CURRICULUM(CBCS) TEXTILE ENGINEERING rd th (3 to 8 Semester) Teaching and Examination Scheme 1 HIMACHAL PRADESH TECHNICAL UNIVERSITY, HAMIRPUR CURRICULUM OF B.TECH TEXTILE ENGINEERING 1. Credit System: A system enabling quantification of course work, with one credit being assigned to each unit after a student completes its teaching-learning process, followed by passing in both Continuous Internal Assessment CIA & Semester End Examination (SEE); Further, Choice Based Credit System (CBCS) to be helpful in customizing the course work for a student, through Core &Electives. 2. Credit Courses: All Courses registered by a student in a Semester is to earn credits. In a widely accepted definition, students to earn One Credit by registering and passing: One hour/week/Semester for Theory/Lecture (L) Courses; and, Two hours/week/Semester for Laboratory/Practical (P) Courses or Tutorials (T). NOTE: Other student activities not demanding intellectual work or enabling proper assessment like, practical training, study tour and guest lecture not to carry Credits. 3. Credit Representation: Credit values for different courses is as given in Table 1: Lectures Tutorials Practical Work Credits Total (hrs./wk./Sem.) (hrs./wk./Sem.) (hrs./wk./Sem.) (L: T: P/D) Credits 3 0 0 3:0:0 3 2 2 0 2:1:0 3 2 0 2 2:0:1 3 2 2 2 2:1:1 4 0 0 6 0:0:3 3 4.Course Load: Every student to register for a set of Courses in each Semester, with the total number of their Credits being limited by considering the permissible weeklyContactHours (typically: 30/Week); For this, an average Course Load of 24Credits/Semester (e.g., 6-7 Courses) is generally acceptable.
    [Show full text]
  • Textile Industry Needs Christopher D
    The Journal of Cotton Science 21:210–219 (2017) 210 http://journal.cotton.org, © The Cotton Foundation 2017 ENGINEERING & GINNING Textile Industry Needs Christopher D. Delhom, Vikki B. Martin, and Martin K. Schreiner ABSTRACT lthough the immediate customer of the gin is Athe cotton producer, the end user of the ginned The immediate customers of cotton gins are lint is the textile mill, retailers, and eventually the the producers; however, the ultimate customers consumer. Thus, it is essential for the ginner to are textile mills and consumers. The ginner has satisfy both the producers and the textile industry. the challenging task to satisfy both producers and Consequently, the ginner needs to be aware of the the textile industry. Classing and grading systems needs of the textile industry. are intended to assign an economic value to the The intent of the cotton classing and grading bales that relates to textile mill demands and the system is to assign an economic value to the bale that quality of the end product. International textile documents its properties as it relates to the quality of mills currently are the primary consumers of U.S. the end product. Since the last edition of the Cotton cotton lint where it must compete against foreign Ginners Handbook in 1994, the customers of U.S. origins. International textile mills manufacture cotton have changed radically, shifting from primar- primarily ring-spun yarns, whereas domestic mills ily domestic to international mills. International mills manufacture predominantly rotor spun yarns. Pro- have been accustomed primarily to hand-harvested ducers and ginners must produce cottons to satisfy cotton that has been processed at slow ginning all segments of the industry, i.e., domestic and in- rates.
    [Show full text]
  • Advances in Carpet Manufacture
    SOFTbank E-Book Center Tehran, Phone: 66403879,66493070 For Educational Use. www.ebookcenter.ir Woodhead Publishing in Textiles: Number 87 Advances in carpet manufacture Edited by K. K. Goswami © SOFTbank2009 Woodhead E-Book Publishing Center Limited Tehran, Phone: 66403879,66493070 For Educational Use. www.ebookcenter.ir Published by Woodhead Publishing Limited in association with The Textile Institute Woodhead Publishing Limited, Abington Hall, Granta Park, Geat Abington Cambridge CB21 6AH, UK www.woodheadpublishing.com Woodhead Publishing India Private Limited, G-2, Vardaan House, 7/28 Ansari Road, Daryaganj, New Delhi ± 110002, India Published in North America by CRC Press LLC, 6000 Broken Sound Parkway, NW, Suite 300, Boca Raton, FL 33487, USA First published 2009, Woodhead Publishing Limited and CRC Press LLC ß Woodhead Publishing Limited, 2009 The authors have asserted their moral rights. This book contains information obtained from authentic and highly regarded sources. Reprinted material is quoted with permission, and sources are indicated. Reasonable efforts have been made to publish reliable data and information, but the authors and the publishers cannot assume responsibility for the validity of all materials. Neither the authors nor the publishers, nor anyone else associated with this publication, shall be liable for any loss, damage or liability directly or indirectly caused or alleged to be caused by this book. Neither this book nor any part may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, microfilming and recording, or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from Woodhead Publishing Limited. The consent of Woodhead Publishing Limited does not extend to copying for general distribution, for promotion, for creating new works, or for resale.
    [Show full text]
  • Spinning and Winding Taro Nishimura
    The_Textile_Machinery_Society_of_Japan_Textile_College_2-Day_Course_on_Cloth_Making_Introduction_to_Spinning_2014_05_22 Spinning and Winding Taro Nishimura 1. Introduction Since several thousand years ago, humans have been manufacturing linen, wool, cotton, and silk to be used as fibrous materials for clothing. In 繊維 (sen’i ), which is the word for “fiber,” the Chinese character 繊 (sen ) is a unit for decimal fractions of one ten-millionth (equal to approximately 30 Ǻ), while 維 (i) means “long and thin.” Usually, fibers are several dozen µ thick, and can range from around one centimeter long to nigh infinite length. All natural materials, with the exception of raw silk, are between several to several dozen centimeters long and are categorized as staple fibers. Most synthetic fibers are spun into filaments. Figure 1 shows how a variety of textile product forms are interrelated. Short fibers are spun into cotton (spun) yarns, whereas filaments are used just as they are, or as textured yarns by being twisted or stretched. Fabric cloths that are processed into two-dimensional forms using cotton (spun) yarns and filament yarns include woven fabrics, knit fabrics, nets, and laces. Non-woven fabrics are another type of two-dimensional form, in which staple fibers and filaments are directly processed into cloths without being twisted into yarns. Yet another two-dimensional form is that of films, which are not fiber products and are made from synthetic materials. Three-dimensional fabrics and braids are categorized as three-dimensional forms. This paper discusses spinning, or the process of making staple fibers into yarns, and winding, which prepares fibers for weaving. One-dimensional Two-dimensional Three-dimensional Natural Staple fibers Spun yarns Woven fabrics Three-dimensional materials Filaments Filament yarns Knit fabrics fabrics Synthetic Nets Braids materials Laces Non-woven fabrics Films Fig.
    [Show full text]
  • Suicide Deaths and Quality of Indian Cotton: Perspectives from History of Technology and Khadi Movement Author(S): C
    Suicide Deaths and Quality of Indian Cotton: Perspectives from History of Technology and Khadi Movement Author(s): C. Shambu Prasad Source: Economic and Political Weekly, Vol. 34, No. 5 (Jan. 30 - Feb. 5, 1999), pp. PE12-PE21 Published by: Economic and Political Weekly Stable URL: http://www.jstor.org/stable/4407604 . Accessed: 13/06/2014 06:16 Your use of the JSTOR archive indicates your acceptance of the Terms & Conditions of Use, available at . http://www.jstor.org/page/info/about/policies/terms.jsp . JSTOR is a not-for-profit service that helps scholars, researchers, and students discover, use, and build upon a wide range of content in a trusted digital archive. We use information technology and tools to increase productivity and facilitate new forms of scholarship. For more information about JSTOR, please contact [email protected]. Economic and Political Weekly is collaborating with JSTOR to digitize, preserve and extend access to Economic and Political Weekly. http://www.jstor.org This content downloaded from 130.92.9.57 on Fri, 13 Jun 2014 06:16:17 AM All use subject to JSTOR Terms and Conditions Suicide Deaths and Quality of Indian Cotton Perspectives from History of Technology and Khadi Movement C Shambu Prasad The suicide deaths of farmers is a failure of agricultural science and the historical nature of the crisis needs to be appreciated. This paper seeks to retrace the route by which the present connections between Indian cotton and the mechanised textile industry were first established, a direction that has led to the present crisis on the fields of the cotton jflrmers.
    [Show full text]
  • Dynamics of Rotating Superconducting Magnetic Bearings in Ring Spinning
    IEEE/CSC & ESAS SUPERCONDUCTIVITY NEWS FORUM (global edition), January 2016. EUCAS 2015 preprint 3A-LS-P-07.09. Submitted to IEEE Trans. Appl. Supercond. for possible publication. 3A-LS-P-07.09 1 Dynamics of rotating Superconducting Magnetic Bearings in Ring Spinning M. Sparing, A. Berger, F. Wall, V. Lux, S. Hameister, D. Berger, M. Hossain, A. Abdkader, G. Fuchs, C. Cherif, L. Schultz Abstract — A superconducting magnetic bearing (SMB) during spinning and winding. This procedure twists the fibers consisting of a stationary superconductor in a ring-shaped flow- thereby form sand strengthens the yarn. Details of the spinning through cryostat and a rotating permeant magnetic (PM) ring is process and various concepts to improve or replace the ring- investigated as potential twist element in the textile technological process of ring spinning. Since the dynamic behavior of the traveler system are described in the literature [5], [6]. The rotating PM influences the yarn as well as the stability of replacement of the ring-traveler system by an SMB eliminates spinning process, these factors are studied in this paper the problem of frictional heat in the existing system. A considering the acting forces of the yarn on the PM-ring, its detailed description of this process can be found in references vibration modes and the resulting oscillation amplitudes. [7]-[9]. For the assessment of a safe field cooling distance during the operation of the rotating SMB in a rings spinning machine, a II. RING SPINNING WITH AN SMB TWIST ELEMENT correct calculation of the resonance magnification is particularly important. Therefore, the decay constant δ of the damped A.
    [Show full text]
  • Paper 2: the Woollen Cloth Industry in the Lim Valley © Richard Bull & Lyme Regis Museum Revised with Extra Images July 2015
    Industrial Lyme - Paper 2: The Woollen Cloth Industry in the Lim Valley © Richard Bull & Lyme Regis Museum Revised with extra images July 2015 Like all research, this is on-going. If you know more, or are descended from any of the families involved, please get in touch with the author via Lyme Regis Museum. Summary Woollen cloth has been made in the Lim Valley from at least medieval times, but this paper is more about the factories in Lyme Regis and Uplyme that made high-quality West of England coat cloths. The factories in Lyme were bankrupt in 1847, leaving the Uplyme factory to soldier on against Yorkshire competition until it was destroyed by fire in 1866, whilst being modernised. In Lyme the factories were started up again in the 1850s to make silk thread and hemp twine, but only for a short period; these are the subjects of other papers in this series. This paper contains: the background to the trade, the history of the factories and a walking trail to see the mills. Cloth making – the essential process in a nutshell Sheep fleeces are packed on the farm into big canvas bags called woolsacks. At the factory the fleeces are scoured (washed) to remove lanolin (wool- grease), dirt and adhering vegetable material. Then the fleeces are scribbled (torn up into pieces), combed and carded to produce rovings, long strips of wool ready for spinning. Washed and combed fleece being fed into a carding machine at Coldharbour Mill, Uffculme, Devon Industrial Lyme Paper 2 – The Woollen Cloth Industry © R Bull & Lyme Regis Museum 1 Spinning means to draw out and twist - and by this process the scales of the individual wool fibres lock together to produce a thread known as a single.
    [Show full text]
  • Textile Institute
    NOVEMBER 1944 P 1 2 1 THE JOURNAL OF THE TEXTILE INSTITUTE THE BLEACHING OF JUTE FOR TEXTILE PURPOSES B y B . P . R i d g e and A . H . L i t t l e . SUMMARY Details are given of methods that have been found satisfactory for bleaching jute materials to different degrees without undue loss of weight or strength. For mild bleaching, treatment is suggested with cold or warm hypochlorite solutions that are maintained in an alkaline condition. Cold alkaline permanganate fol­ lowed by a bisulphite clearing process, and hot sodium chlorite under slightly acid conditions also give reasonable results. For better shades a hot peroxide bleach may be given after an alkaline hypochlorite treatment, but for uniformity it is best first to scour the material under mild conditions with a soda ash solution at 65° to 750 C., using about 7-5 per cent, of ash on the weight of jute, whilst still further improvement in shade is obtained if the scouring bath contains a small proportion of peroxide. Other methods that may be used are the ordinary peroxide bleach without previous hypochlorite treatment as normally used for cotton goods, or alternate steepings first in a dilute alkaline hypochlorite and then in a hot solution of sodium hydrosulphite or bisulphite. White or nearly white jute can be obtained only if substantially all the lignin is removed, when the wet strength is seriously reduced. Information is recorded on the bleaching of yarn in package form and on the processing of mixtures of jute with cotton, linen, wool and rayon.
    [Show full text]
  • Perfidious Albion: Britain, the USA, and Slavery in Ther 1840S and 1860S Marika Sherwood University of London
    Contributions in Black Studies A Journal of African and Afro-American Studies Volume 13 Special Double Issue "Islam & the African American Connection: Article 6 Perspectives New & Old" 1995 Perfidious Albion: Britain, the USA, and Slavery in ther 1840s and 1860s Marika Sherwood University of London Follow this and additional works at: https://scholarworks.umass.edu/cibs Recommended Citation Sherwood, Marika (1995) "Perfidious Albion: Britain, the USA, and Slavery in ther 1840s and 1860s," Contributions in Black Studies: Vol. 13 , Article 6. Available at: https://scholarworks.umass.edu/cibs/vol13/iss1/6 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Afro-American Studies at ScholarWorks@UMass Amherst. It has been accepted for inclusion in Contributions in Black Studies by an authorized editor of ScholarWorks@UMass Amherst. For more information, please contact [email protected]. Sherwood: Perfidious Albion Marika Sherwood PERFIDIOUS ALBION: BRITAIN, THE USA, AND SLAVERY IN THE 1840s AND 1860s RITAI N OUTLAWED tradingin slavesin 1807;subsequentlegislation tight­ ened up the law, and the Royal Navy's cruisers on the West Coast B attempted to prevent the export ofany more enslaved Africans.' From 1808 through the 1860s, Britain also exerted considerable pressure (accompa­ nied by equally considerable sums of money) on the U.S.A., Brazil, and European countries in the trade to cease their slaving. Subsequently, at the outbreak ofthe American Civil War in 1861, which was at least partly fought over the issue ofthe extension ofslavery, Britain declared her neutrality. Insofar as appearances were concerned, the British government both engaged in a vigorous suppression of the Atlantic slave trade and kept a distance from Confederate rebels during the American Civil War.
    [Show full text]
  • Textiles for Dress 1800-1920
    Draft version only: not the publisher’s typeset P.A. Sykas: Textiles for dress 1800-1920 Textile fabrics are conceived by the manufacturer in terms of their material composition and processes of production, but perceived by the consumer firstly in terms of appearance and handle. Both are deeply involved in the economic and cultural issues behind the wearing of cloth: cost, quality, meaning. We must look from these several perspectives in order to understand the drivers behind the introduction of fabrics to the market, and the collective response to them in the form of fashion. A major preoccupation during our time frame was novelty. On the supply side, novelty gave a competitive edge, stimulated fashion change and accelerated the cycle of consumption. On the demand side, novelty provided pleasure, a way to get noticed, and new social signifiers. But novelty can act in contradictory ways: as an instrument for sustaining a fashion elite by facilitating costly style changes, and as an agent for breaking down fashion barriers by making elite modes more affordable. It can drive fashion both by promoting new looks, and later by acting to make those looks outmoded. During the long nineteenth century, the desire for novelty was supported by the widely accepted philosophical view of progress: that new also implied improved or more advanced, hence that novelty was a reflection of modernity. This chapter examines textiles for dress from 1800 to 1920, a period that completed the changeover from hand-craft to machine production, and through Europe’s imperial ambitions, saw the reversal of East/West trading patterns.
    [Show full text]
  • “Methinks I See Grim Slavery's Gorgon Form”: Abolitionism in Belfast, 1775
    “Methinks I see grim Slavery’s Gorgon form”: Abolitionism in Belfast, 1775-1865 By Krysta Beggs-McCormick (BA Hons, MRes) Faculty of Arts, Humanities and Social Sciences of Ulster University A Thesis submitted for the Degree of Doctor of Philosophy (PhD) October 2018 I confirm that the word count of this thesis is less than 100,000 words. Contents Acknowledgements ………………………………………………………………………… I Illustration I …………………………………………………………………………...…… II Abstract ……………………………………………………………………………………. III Introduction ………………………………………………………………………………… 1 Chapter One – “That horrible degradation of human nature”: Abolitionism in late eighteenth-century Belfast ……………………………………………….…………………………………………….. 22 Chapter Two – “Go ruthless Avarice”: Abolitionism in nineteenth century Georgian Belfast ………………………………………………………………………................................... 54 Chapter Three – “The atrocious system should come to an end”: Abolitionism in Early Victorian Belfast, 1837-1857 ……………………………………………………………... 99 Chapter Four - “Whether freedom or slavery should be the grand characteristic of the United States”: Belfast Abolitionism and the American Civil War……………………..………. 175 Conclusion ……………………………………………………………………………….. 206 Bibliography ……………………………………………………………………………... 214 Appendix 1: Table ……………………………………………………………………….. 257 Appendix 2: Belfast Newspapers .…………….…………………………………………. 258 I Acknowledgements This thesis would not have been possible without the help and guidance of many people to whom I am greatly indebted. I owe my greatest thanks to my supervisory team: Professor
    [Show full text]
  • Please Click Here to Download a PDF of the Detailed Listing to Part 3
    Portfolio Approx. Earliest No: of Type Cylinder Horse RPM Owner of Other Details Number No: of Date on Engines of Diameter x Power Engine Drawings Drawings Engine Stroke REEL TWENTY­NINE Scotland:­ Ayr 208 12 Sep 1800 1 28” 1/8 x 6’0 30 38 David Dale Cotton Mill. Later acquired by James Finlay & Co. Engine erected at Catrine. Lanark 13 1790 1 S 26” x 6’0 10 John & William Purchased from Folliot Scott & Wilson Co. Forge Mill Engine at Wilson Town, Lanark. 193 14 Sep 1799 1 D 29” x 6’0 32 John Pattison Parchment dated October 1, 1799. John Pattison of Glasgow. Cotton Mill, Glasgow. Payment £797. 106,000lbs. 10 feet high. Purchased by Mr Dunn. 199 7 April 1800 1 D 17” 2/3 x 4’0 10 John Cotton Mill. Brigtown near Bartholomew Glasgow. 202 8 April 1800 1 19” 1/4 x 4’0 12 James Cook & Flax Mill, Glasgow. Co 204 8 May 1800 1 16” x 4’0 8 Robert Brewery, Glasgow. Struthers & Co 209 8 Aug 1800 1 D 28” 1/8 x 6’0 30 Corporation of Flour Mill. Patrick Mills, Bakers Glasgow. 216 3 Feb 1801 1 16” x 4’0 8 50 James Monach Cotton Mill, Glasgow. Originally Matthew Boulton’s Mint Engine. Belonged to Indoe and Galbraith by 1813. 228 9 Aug 1801 1 19” 1/4 x 4’0 12 Tennant Knox Chemical Manufactory, & Co Glasgow. Portfolio Approx. Earliest No: of Type Cylinder Horse RPM Owner of Other Details Number No: of Date on Engines of Diameter x Power Engine Drawings Drawings Engine Stroke Renfrewshire 177 14 Dec 1798 1 D 21” 1/4 x 5’0 16 Underwood Parchment dated January 1, Spinning Co 1799.
    [Show full text]