The_Textile_Machinery_Society_of_Japan_Textile_College_2-Day_Course_on_Cloth_Making_Introduction_to_Spinning_2014_05_22 and Winding Taro Nishimura

1. Introduction Since several thousand years ago, humans have been manufacturing , , , and silk to be used as fibrous materials for clothing. In 繊維 (sen’i ), which is the word for “fiber,” the Chinese character 繊 (sen ) is a unit for decimal fractions of one ten-millionth (equal to approximately 30 Ǻ), while 維 (i) means “long and thin.” Usually, fibers are several dozen µ thick, and can range from around one centimeter long to nigh infinite length. All natural materials, with the exception of raw silk, are between several to several dozen centimeters long and are categorized as fibers. Most synthetic fibers are spun into filaments. Figure 1 shows how a variety of product forms are interrelated. Short fibers are spun into cotton (spun) , whereas filaments are used just as they are, or as textured yarns by being twisted or stretched. Fabric cloths that are processed into two-dimensional forms using cotton (spun) yarns and filament yarns include woven fabrics, knit fabrics, nets, and laces. Non-woven fabrics are another type of two-dimensional form, in which staple fibers and filaments are directly processed into cloths without being twisted into yarns. Yet another two-dimensional form is that of films, which are not fiber products and are made from synthetic materials. Three-dimensional fabrics and braids are categorized as three-dimensional forms. This paper discusses spinning, or the process of making staple fibers into yarns, and winding, which prepares fibers for .

One-dimensional Two-dimensional Three-dimensional Natural Staple fibers Spun yarns Woven fabrics Three-dimensional materials Filaments Filament yarns Knit fabrics fabrics Synthetic Nets Braids materials Laces Non-woven fabrics Films Fig. 1 Outline of textile products

2. History of textile technology

100,000 – 200,000 years ago.: Neanderthals sew fur clothing using needles made from bones. Several tens of thousands years ago: Cro-Magnon men use forms of body decoration, such as necklaces and bracelets. Several thousand years ago: Linen (Egypt), wool (Mesopotamia), cotton (Indus, Inca), and silk (Yellow River region) are manufactured for use as clothing materials. Silk Road ～ Age of Discovery: As civilizations engage in interchange, cultivation and growing of cotton, linen, wool, and silk spread to various parts of the world. 18 th century: The British prompts of spinning and weaving. 1530: Johann Jurgen uses bobbins and flyers to achieve simultaneous twisting and winding. -1-

The_Textile_Machinery_Society_of_Japan_Textile_College_2-Day_Course_on_Cloth_Making_Introduction_to_Spinning_2014_05_22 1589: William Lee invents the first stocking frame knitting . 1733: John Key invents the for weaving . 1733: John Wyatt assembles a spinning machine model (under Lewis Paul’s 1738 patent). 1738: Lewis Paul invents the roller drafting method. 1764: invents the . 1769: achieves continuous spinning with a water-powered spinning machine. 1772: Coniah Wood invents the slubbing billy. 1775: G. Krang invents the tricot machine. 1779: invents the . 1785: Edmund Cartwright invents the power . 1798: Joseph-Marie Jacquard invents the Jacquard loom. 1825: Richard Roberts invents the self-acting spinning mule. 1828: John Thorpe invents the frame. 1830: Barthélemy Tinmoner invented a sewing machine. 1833: Fales & Jenks Machine Co. releases the ring . 1850: Evan Leigh invents the machine. 1856: William Henry Perkin invents synthetic dyes. 1863: Isaac William Lamb invents the flat-bed knitting machine. 1873: Tatsumune Gaun invents the garab ō spinning machine. 1883: Hilaire de Chardonnet invents artificial nitro-silk. 1883: Mayer invents the circular knitting machine. 1892: Charles Frederick Cross and Edward John Bevan invent viscose rayon. 1938: Wallace Hume Carothers invents polyamide fibers. 1942: John Rex Whinfield invents polyester fibers. 1940s: (Sulzer) gripper , nonwoven fabrics, and acrylic fibers are put into practical use. 1950s: Air-jet machines and polyurethane fibers are put into practical use. 1960s: Open-air spinners, water-/air-jet looms, and stretch woven fabrics are put into practical use. 1970s: Various types of modified fibers are put into practical use. 1979: The No. 7-II automatic winder with Mach Splicer® (air splicer for cotton ) debuts. 1980s: Friction spinning machines and ultra-fine fibers are put into practical use. 1981: The innovative open-end spinner Murata Jet Spinner (MJS) debuts. 1995: Shima Seiki Mfg., Ltd. releases the flat-bed knitting machine SWG (no sewing required). 1997: The innovative open-end spinner Murata Vortex Spinner (MVS) and Rieter COM4® compact spinning machines debut. 1999: Supercritical fluid dyeing equipment and ink-jet printing machines debut. 2005: The high-mix & low-volume textile production winder Arrange Winder® debuts. 2011: Rieter releases the J20 air-jet spinning machine.

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The_Textile_Machinery_Society_of_Japan_Textile_College_2-Day_Course_on_Cloth_Making_Introduction_to_Spinning_2014_05_22 3. Spinning 3.1. Spinning techniques Spinning is a process in which an assembly of staple fibers is made into long, thin yarns. Basic spinning processes for natural fibers include removal of fiber impurities, blending for equalization of fiber quality, parallel arrangement of fibers, stretching of fiber bundles, and twisting. There are two spinning techniques: one for staple fibers and one for long fibers. By material, such techniques can be divided roughly into cotton spinning, wool spinning ( and ), linen spinning, silk spinning, and spinning. Chart 1 shows the states of fibers and functions of each spinning process, and descriptions of each technique.

Chart 1 Process chart of spinning techniques1)

Basic segment Preparation of raw materials Fiber frame setting Yarn production Basic Material Opening Frame setting Fine frame Fore-spinning Fine Yarn processes process process process setting process spinning finishing process process process State of fibers

Functions Dust Opening Carding Doubling Drafting removal Dust removal (Dust Drafting Twisting Blending removal, Drafting Winding equilibration) Fibrillation Cotton Mixing and Carding Combing Drawing, Fine spinning blowing spinning Worsted Selection, Carding Worsted Fore-spinning Fine spinning washing, spinning, spinning drying, washing, oiling drying, top dyeing Woolen Washing, Reopening, Carding Fine spinning carbonizing wool opening, spinning blending Tow spinning Draft zone Drawing, Fine system roving spinning spinning Linen spinning Hackling Spreading Drawing, Fine Carding roving spinning Silk spinning Fine roving Draft making Carding Combing Drawing, Fine roving spinning

Shown in Figure 2 is the cotton spinning process (staple fiber spinning technique), which accounts for the majority of the market. Figure 3 shows the worsted spinning process.

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The_Textile_Machinery_Society_of_Japan_Textile_College_2-Day_Course_on_Cloth_Making_Introduction_to_Spinning_2014_05_22

Raw cotton

Importing raw cotton

Mixing and blowing

Sliver lap Lap

Ribbon lap machine Sliver lap machine Carding

Sliver

Ribbon lap

Comber

Rove Sliver

Fine spinnning Roving Drawing

Cheese

Doubling Twisting Winding Gassing

Dying/ Product Waxing Cone Winding

Reeling Bundling Product Cotton

Fig. 2 Cotton spinning process 1)

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The_Textile_Machinery_Society_of_Japan_Textile_College_2-Day_Course_on_Cloth_Making_Introduction_to_Spinning_2014_05_22

Dryer Raw Feeder Washer Feeder materials

Double acting Single-needle cylinder type type

Oiler Card Intermediate feeder Second

Finished First frame frame frame Flat type Dry type washing Copeer roll Drop Frame washing needle bath bath

Comber Intermediate Back washer feeder Second

Heavy needle Framing type Heavy needle Top type

Intermediate Bobbiner Spinning machine feeder

Figure 3 Worsted spinning process (French style) 1)

3.2 Spinning machines Spinning productivity and the quality of resultant yarns depend on how yarns are spun. The functions of spinning machines include drafting, twisting, and winding. Figure 4 shows the history of spinning machines since they were first invented in the 16 th century, which followed two courses of development: mule spinning machines, which perform twisting and winding alternately, and ring spinning machines, which perform both simultaneously. At present, ring spinning machines are almost always chosen for their high productivity, while mule spinning machines may be chosen occasionally because of the good texture of yarns that they produce. Figure 5 illustrates the principles of ring spinning machines and mule spinning machines, while Figure 6 is a photo of a Rieter G35 ring spinning machine.

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The_Textile_Machinery_Society_of_Japan_Textile_College_2-Day_Course_on_Cloth_Making_Introduction_to_Spinning_2014_05_22

Hand 16th century spinning

1764

Hand

16th century Hargreaves' spinning jenny

1772

Treadle spinning wheel

Wood's slubbing billy 1769 1779

Arkwright's water-powered spinning machine

Crompton's mule spinning frame 1833 1825 ～1830

Fales & Jenks' ring spinning machine Robert's self-acting spinning mule Figure 4 Development of spinning machines 2)

Delivery roller

Bobbin

Thread Faller guide

Carriage Traveler Ring

Front roller Back roller Ring rail Bobbin

Fig. 5 Ring spinning machine and mule spinning machine 3)

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The_Textile_Machinery_Society_of_Japan_Textile_College_2-Day_Course_on_Cloth_Making_Introduction_to_Spinning_2014_05_22

Fig. 6 Rieter G35 ring spinning machine

3.3 Innovative spinning machines 3.3.1 Open-end spinning machines When twisting a fiber bundle, if yarns are twisted by fixing them at both ends, the yarns on the left and the right will be twisted in opposite directions. As the twisted yarns are released, however, they will become reversed and untwist (false twist). Thus, when twisting a filament bundle as in the abovementioned spinning method, it is necessary to twist the yarns by rotating either the yarns’ winding section or the fiber bundle’s feeding section in order to achieve a real twist (which does not reverse) (Figure 7 (1)). Because of this, the productivity of open-end spinning is subject to restrictions in many aspects, including spinning/twisting speed and winding capacity.

Fig. 7 Twisting method

As shown in (2) and (3) of Figure 7, however, if all or part of the fiber bundle is made discontinuous temporarily, such restrictions may be eliminated. This idea led to the development of the “open-end spinning” technique, and this innovative spinning method has been put to several practical applications since the birth of rotor-type open-end spinning machines in Czechoslovakia in 1960. In addition to such rotor spinning machines, two other types of innovative spinning techniques are currently in practical use: friction and fasciated. Figure 8 shows the principles of each technique. Generally speaking, these yarns do not compare with ring yarns in terms of quality, but some of them offer properties that are superior to those of ring yarns. MJS® and MVS® from Murata Machinery, Ltd. are two of the fasciated spinning machines that have been made available -7-

The_Textile_Machinery_Society_of_Japan_Textile_College_2-Day_Course_on_Cloth_Making_Introduction_to_Spinning_2014_05_22 in the market. Figure 9 illustrates their yarn formation principles.

Fig. 7 Rieter R60 rotor spinning machine

Sliver Draft section

Air current

Rotor Roter-type open-end spinning

Yarn Draft section

Fleece separator

Air jet nozzle

Fasciated open-end spinning Fasciated yarn

① Card drum ② Draft section ③Air current ④ Porous drum ⑤ Parallelization disk

Friction-type open-end spinning (DREF II model) Fig. 8 Types of open-end spinning techniques 3)

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The_Textile_Machinery_Society_of_Japan_Textile_College_2-Day_Course_on_Cloth_Making_Introduction_to_Spinning_2014_05_22

Fig. 9 MJS® and MVS® yarn formation principle

Fig. 10 Murata Machinery’s MVS® spinning machine VORTEX 861

3.3.2 Other spinning machines

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The_Textile_Machinery_Society_of_Japan_Textile_College_2-Day_Course_on_Cloth_Making_Introduction_to_Spinning_2014_05_22

Ordinary roves

Roller draft

Yarn spool for winding

Hollow

Continuous adhesion process Pavena method A: Impregnation device A: Adhesive fiber bundle B: Drying B: High draft range C: Bobbin C: Fiber separation

Cheese Principle of Pavena method

Moisturizing Leesona cover spun method

Winding

Feed roller Feed roller Wet draft Twister Twister

Strand Strand False twisting

Self-twist yarn

Drying Single yarn Example mechanism of self-twist spinning machine Twilo twist-less spinning method Fig. 11 Other spinning machines 3)

Other spinning methods that have been released thus far include twist-less spinning, which does not twist fibers to make yarns, self-twist spinning, which utilizes false twisting, and cover spun spinning, which uses filaments to fasciate yarns. A common characteristic among these methods is high productivity. Figure 11 illustrates schematic depictions of such methods.

3.4 Compact yarns 4) The key technology for compact yarns can be found in the transition from drafting to twisting in conventional ring spinning machines. With conventional techniques, yarns are drawn into a Y-shape and then twisted. To make compact yarns, however, the yarns are drawn into an I-shape and twisted so that the yarns do not become flat, thus preventing fibers from separating to produce napping.

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The_Textile_Machinery_Society_of_Japan_Textile_College_2-Day_Course_on_Cloth_Making_Introduction_to_Spinning_2014_05_22

Fig. 12 Rieter K44 compacting unit

Compact yarns thus manufactured have an extremely small amount of napping and are glossy and satiny like silk. When woven, such qualities are manifested as a soft touch and clear expression, such as yarn-dyed shirting without any blur in its pattern, distinct dobby patterns even on plain clothes, and clear-ribbed corduroy with a soft and delicate feel. Since 1997, Rieter of Switzerland and Suessen and Zinser of Germany have developed spinning machines for compact yarns, but Zinser’s models have barely sold, while Rieter has practically acquired Suessen to become the sole provider/distributor of this technology in Europe. In Japan, Toyota Boshoku Corporation released their compact yarn spinning machine in October 2002, which has sold favorable in Asia and elsewhere. There has also been an increasing number of cases of Japanese spinning machine manufacturers responding to this trend by improving their existing spinning machines.

4. Winders After being spun and twisted in a ring spinning machine, yarn bobbins are wound by a machine called a winder into “cone” or “cheese” shapes for convenience of transportation and storage.

Fig. 12 Murata Machinery’s automatic winder No. 7

4.1 Air splicers In the past, winders joined yarns using a mechanical device called a knotter. The drawback of using the knotter to knot yarns was that several dozen knots were created on a single yarn, and these sometimes caught on things throughout the processes of knitting machines or weaving machines. This caused problems that required machines to stop. Also, when such yarns were made into cloth, the knots caused frays or holes. In 1979, the air splicer (Mach Splicer®) was developed as an attempt to produce a machine that would join yarns without -11-

The_Textile_Machinery_Society_of_Japan_Textile_College_2-Day_Course_on_Cloth_Making_Introduction_to_Spinning_2014_05_22 making knots. Using compressed air to accomplish this, the air splicer became the greatest invention in the history of winders.

With the Mach Splicer Without the Mach Splicer

Fig. 13 Joints made by the Mach Splicer® and joined yarns 4.2 Arrange Winder®5, 6) A labor-saving machine in the yarn-dyed fabric production process and a centerpiece of high-mix and low-volume textile production systems, the Arrange Winder® is capable of winding several yarns of any length and in any order, and it has been awarded the Prime Minister’s Prize at the 1 st Japan Manufacturing Awards. To manufacture textiles, as many as 5,000 yarns need to be warped, and this process becomes necessary every time color patterns are changed. Working with smaller lots does not mean less labor, and so this process always incurs a large amount of costs and time, despite the fact that high-mix and low-volume production for quick delivery is constantly being called for these days. By performing warping in the order of color patterns that meet customers’ orders and by preparing several take-up packages beforehand, this system is capable of manufacturing textiles of multiple patterns in the warping process all at once. It is necessary to prepare data based on the textiles’ planning and design information and the warp preparation process beforehand, and to prepare take-up packages by selecting yarns (up to 9 kinds), knotting yarns (using knitters and splicers), measuring lengths, and winding yarns in the system. The system prepares a specified number of packages by automatically setting take-up tubes (cones) onto an auto . The packages thus prepared are then set on the creel to wind yarns around beams, and patterns with colors that differ by warping direction are created, thus preparing multi-pattern and multicolor textiles all in one process. This winder is also capable of using recycled residual dyed yarns to create warps, which allows textile designers to develop designs that no one else can emulate. -12-

The_Textile_Machinery_Society_of_Japan_Textile_College_2-Day_Course_on_Cloth_Making_Introduction_to_Spinning_2014_05_22

Fig. 14 Arrange Winder®

References 1) Textile I and II and Textile Product Manufacturing 1 , compiled by the Japanese Society for the Study of Education, Jikkyo Shuppan Co., Ltd. 2) History of Engineering 1 , translated by Toshio Yamazaki, Hitoshi Hashimoto, and Shigeki Kobayashi, Tokyo Tosho Co., Ltd. (1966) 3) Textile Engineering III and IV , compiled by the Textile Machinery Society of Japan, Textile Machinery Society of Japan (1987) 4) http://www.itochu-tex.net/press_release/03040301.htm 5) http://www.Monodzukuri.meti.go.jp/message1/index.html 6) http://j-net21.smrj.go.jp/seni/06/publicsiken/kohyo/no24-1.html

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