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The_Textile_Machinery_Society_of_Japan_Textile_College_2-Day_Course_on_Cloth_Making_Introduction_to_Spinning_2014_05_22 Spinning and Winding Taro Nishimura 1. Introduction Since several thousand years ago, humans have been manufacturing linen, wool, cotton, and silk to be used as fibrous materials for clothing. In 繊維 (sen’i ), which is the word for “fiber,” the Chinese character 繊 (sen ) is a unit for decimal fractions of one ten-millionth (equal to approximately 30 Ǻ), while 維 (i) means “long and thin.” Usually, fibers are several dozen µ thick, and can range from around one centimeter long to nigh infinite length. All natural materials, with the exception of raw silk, are between several to several dozen centimeters long and are categorized as staple fibers. Most synthetic fibers are spun into filaments. Figure 1 shows how a variety of textile product forms are interrelated. Short fibers are spun into cotton (spun) yarns, whereas filaments are used just as they are, or as textured yarns by being twisted or stretched. Fabric cloths that are processed into two-dimensional forms using cotton (spun) yarns and filament yarns include woven fabrics, knit fabrics, nets, and laces. Non-woven fabrics are another type of two-dimensional form, in which staple fibers and filaments are directly processed into cloths without being twisted into yarns. Yet another two-dimensional form is that of films, which are not fiber products and are made from synthetic materials. Three-dimensional fabrics and braids are categorized as three-dimensional forms. This paper discusses spinning, or the process of making staple fibers into yarns, and winding, which prepares fibers for weaving. One-dimensional Two-dimensional Three-dimensional Natural Staple fibers Spun yarns Woven fabrics Three-dimensional materials Filaments Filament yarns Knit fabrics fabrics Synthetic Nets Braids materials Laces Non-woven fabrics Films Fig. 1 Outline of textile products 2. History of textile technology 100,000 – 200,000 years ago.: Neanderthals sew fur clothing using needles made from bones. Several tens of thousands years ago: Cro-Magnon men use forms of body decoration, such as necklaces and bracelets. Several thousand years ago: Linen (Egypt), wool (Mesopotamia), cotton (Indus, Inca), and silk (Yellow River region) are manufactured for use as clothing materials. Silk Road ～ Age of Discovery: As civilizations engage in interchange, cultivation and growing of cotton, linen, wool, and silk spread to various parts of the world. 18 th century: The British Industrial Revolution prompts mechanization of spinning and weaving. 1530: Johann Jurgen uses bobbins and flyers to achieve simultaneous twisting and winding. -1- The_Textile_Machinery_Society_of_Japan_Textile_College_2-Day_Course_on_Cloth_Making_Introduction_to_Spinning_2014_05_22 1589: William Lee invents the first stocking frame knitting machine. 1733: John Key invents the flying shuttle for weaving machines. 1733: John Wyatt assembles a spinning machine model (under Lewis Paul’s 1738 patent). 1738: Lewis Paul invents the roller drafting method. 1764: James Hargreaves invents the spinning jenny. 1769: Richard Arkwright achieves continuous spinning with a water-powered spinning machine. 1772: Coniah Wood invents the slubbing billy. 1775: G. Krang invents the tricot machine. 1779: Samuel Crompton invents the spinning mule. 1785: Edmund Cartwright invents the power loom. 1798: Joseph-Marie Jacquard invents the Jacquard loom. 1825: Richard Roberts invents the self-acting spinning mule. 1828: John Thorpe invents the ring spinning frame. 1830: Barthélemy Tinmoner invented a sewing machine. 1833: Fales & Jenks Machine Co. releases the ring spinning frame. 1850: Evan Leigh invents the carding machine. 1856: William Henry Perkin invents synthetic dyes. 1863: Isaac William Lamb invents the flat-bed knitting machine. 1873: Tatsumune Gaun invents the garab ō spinning machine. 1883: Hilaire de Chardonnet invents artificial nitro-silk. 1883: Mayer invents the circular knitting machine. 1892: Charles Frederick Cross and Edward John Bevan invent viscose rayon. 1938: Wallace Hume Carothers invents polyamide fibers. 1942: John Rex Whinfield invents polyester fibers. 1940s: (Sulzer) gripper looms, nonwoven fabrics, and acrylic fibers are put into practical use. 1950s: Air-jet machines and polyurethane fibers are put into practical use. 1960s: Open-air spinners, water-/air-jet looms, and stretch woven fabrics are put into practical use. 1970s: Various types of modified fibers are put into practical use. 1979: The No. 7-II automatic winder with Mach Splicer® (air splicer for cotton yarn) debuts. 1980s: Friction spinning machines and ultra-fine fibers are put into practical use. 1981: The innovative open-end spinner Murata Jet Spinner (MJS) debuts. 1995: Shima Seiki Mfg., Ltd. releases the flat-bed knitting machine SWG (no sewing required). 1997: The innovative open-end spinner Murata Vortex Spinner (MVS) and Rieter COM4® compact spinning machines debut. 1999: Supercritical fluid dyeing equipment and ink-jet printing machines debut. 2005: The high-mix & low-volume textile production winder Arrange Winder® debuts. 2011: Rieter releases the J20 air-jet spinning machine. -2- The_Textile_Machinery_Society_of_Japan_Textile_College_2-Day_Course_on_Cloth_Making_Introduction_to_Spinning_2014_05_22 3. Spinning 3.1. Spinning techniques Spinning is a process in which an assembly of staple fibers is made into long, thin yarns. Basic spinning processes for natural fibers include removal of fiber impurities, blending for equalization of fiber quality, parallel arrangement of fibers, stretching of fiber bundles, and twisting. There are two spinning techniques: one for staple fibers and one for long fibers. By material, such techniques can be divided roughly into cotton spinning, wool spinning (worsted and woolen), linen spinning, silk spinning, and tow spinning. Chart 1 shows the states of fibers and functions of each spinning process, and descriptions of each technique. Chart 1 Process chart of spinning techniques1) Basic segment Preparation of raw materials Fiber frame setting Yarn production Basic Material Opening Frame setting Fine frame Fore-spinning Fine Yarn processes process process process setting process spinning finishing process process process State of fibers Functions Dust Opening Carding Doubling Doubling Drafting removal Dust removal (Dust Combing Drafting Twisting Blending removal, Drafting Winding equilibration) Fibrillation Cotton Mixing and Carding Combing Drawing, Fine spinning blowing roving spinning Worsted Selection, Carding Worsted Fore-spinning Fine spinning washing, spinning, spinning drying, washing, oiling drying, top dyeing Woolen Washing, Reopening, Carding Fine spinning carbonizing wool opening, spinning blending Tow spinning Draft zone Drawing, Fine system roving spinning spinning Linen spinning Scutching Hackling Spreading Drawing, Fine Carding roving spinning Silk spinning Fine roving Draft making Carding Combing Drawing, Fine roving spinning Shown in Figure 2 is the cotton spinning process (staple fiber spinning technique), which accounts for the majority of the market. Figure 3 shows the worsted spinning process. -3- The_Textile_Machinery_Society_of_Japan_Textile_College_2-Day_Course_on_Cloth_Making_Introduction_to_Spinning_2014_05_22 Raw cotton Importing raw cotton Mixing and blowing Sliver Sliver lap Lap Ribbon lap machine Sliver lap machine Carding Sliver Ribbon lap Comber Rove Sliver Fine spinnning Roving Drawing Cheese Doubling Twisting Winding Gassing Dying/ Product Waxing Cone Winding Reeling Bundling Product Cotton Fig. 2 Cotton spinning process 1) -4- The_Textile_Machinery_Society_of_Japan_Textile_College_2-Day_Course_on_Cloth_Making_Introduction_to_Spinning_2014_05_22 Dryer Raw Feeder Washer Feeder materials Double acting Single-needle cylinder type type Oiler Card Intermediate feeder Second Finished First frame frame frame Flat type Dry type washing Copeer roll Drop Frame washing needle bath bath Comber Intermediate Back washer feeder Second Heavy needle Framing type Heavy needle Top type Intermediate Bobbiner Spinning machine feeder Figure 3 Worsted spinning process (French style) 1) 3.2 Spinning machines Spinning productivity and the quality of resultant yarns depend on how yarns are spun. The functions of spinning machines include drafting, twisting, and winding. Figure 4 shows the history of spinning machines since they were first invented in the 16 th century, which followed two courses of development: mule spinning machines, which perform twisting and winding alternately, and ring spinning machines, which perform both simultaneously. At present, ring spinning machines are almost always chosen for their high productivity, while mule spinning machines may be chosen occasionally because of the good texture of yarns that they produce. Figure 5 illustrates the principles of ring spinning machines and mule spinning machines, while Figure 6 is a photo of a Rieter G35 ring spinning machine. -5- The_Textile_Machinery_Society_of_Japan_Textile_College_2-Day_Course_on_Cloth_Making_Introduction_to_Spinning_2014_05_22 Hand 16th century spinning 1764 Hand spinning wheel 16th century Hargreaves' spinning jenny 1772 Treadle spinning wheel Wood's slubbing billy 1769 1779 Arkwright's water-powered spinning machine Crompton's mule spinning frame 1833 1825 ～1830 Fales & Jenks' ring spinning machine Robert's self-acting spinning mule Figure 4 Development of spinning machines 2) Delivery roller Bobbin Thread Faller guide
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