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GIPE-020070-Contents.Pdf SERVANTS Oll' INDIA SOCIETY'S LIBRARY, , POOHA ,. FOR INTERNAL CIRCULATION ITo be returned on or before the last date stamped below ~.5I1A y :g6 .... namtRJayaraG Gadgillibrary Ilm~ II11I a~ IUlium lUll mlill GIPE-PUN~-020070 X91(\'<\ 1 9. '2.. .N ,; \t i-{2--- ~co70 t Sf i ................... ~........... , .. REPORT OF TIlE. FACT .. FINDING COMMITTEE (HANDLOOM AND MILLS) PUBLISHEIl BY THE MANAGER OF PUBLICATIONS, DELHI PRINTED BY THE MANAGER, GOVERNMENT OF INDIA 'P'RESS, OALCUTTA 1942 List of Agents in India from whom Government of India Publications are available. AlIBOTTABAD-Bngllsh Book .Store. DHARWAB-Sbrl Sbankar Xarnataka Bbandara. AGRA- English Book Depot, Taj Road. PEROZEPORE-Bngllsh Book Depot. Indfan Army Book Depot, Dayalbagh. GW ALIOB-laln II; Bros., M....... lL 1I., Barala NatJooal Book H01Il!e, leomondl. HYDERABAD (DECCAN)- AHMEDABAD- Dom1n1on Book Conoeru, Hydergnda. Chandra Kant Cblman Lal Vom. Hyderabad Book Depot, Cbadergbat. H. L. College of Commerce C<H>perative Store, Ltd. lAIPUB-Garg Book Co., Trlpolla lIa&ar. AJ:MEBr-Bantblya &: Co., Ltd., Station Road. KARACIII- Aero Store&. AXOLA-BakshJ, K. G. xr. Standard BookataIL ALLAHABAD- • Ventral Book Depot, 44, lobDatongan\. KARACHI (SADAR)-Manager, SI.nd Governmm Depot and Record OlBce. X1tablstan. 17·A, City Road. Ram N araln Lal, I, Bank Road. LAHORE- Imperiall'1lblishlng Co., 99, RaIlway Road. Superintendent, Prlntlug and Statlouery, U. P. Kansll &; Co., K ....... N. C~ 9, Commerclal B. Wheeler &: Co., K ....... A. H. TbeMa1l. lIANGALORB CITY-Premier Book Co. llalhotra &: Co., ll....... U. P~ Poet Box No. II< lIARODA-East and West Book H01Il!e. )llnerva Book Shop, Auarllall Street. lIELGAUM-Model Book Depot, Xhade lIaaar. PunJab RelIgIOUl Book Bociety. lIBNARES-Bngllsh Bookahop. B.ama XrIshna &: Bona, Auarkall. 1I0MBAY- Superintendent, Govt. Printing, Punjab. C<H>peraton' Book Depot, 9, lIakebouse Lane, Fort. UDiversity Book .Agency, XacherI Road. LakbanI Book Depot, Bombay, 4. LUCKNOW-Upper India I'1Iblisblng H01Il!e New Book Co., Xitab MabaI, 188-90, Hornby Road. Literature PaIac:e, AminuddanlA Park. Popular Book Depot, Grant Road. LYALLPORB-Lyall Book Depot. Safety Book Shop, Safety IIrst .A.II8ocIation of India )UDRAS- Fort. Hlgginbotbams. Snperlntendent, Gon. PrintIng '" Stationery, Queen's Superintendent, Gon. Preso, lloant Road. Road. Varadachary &: Co., Heaara. P. Taraporevala Bona &: Co., Kesara. D. 1I. Thaeker &: Co., Ltd. MHOW-UDiveraal BookstalL KOGA-Army Musketry Sto..... TrI~~c:'" llesara. N. lL, PrInoese Btreet, Xalbao NAGPUB- Wheeler &: Co., lleaara. A. H. Ventral Law HoUl8, TiJak Road. CALCUTTA­ Xh~ Boos, Kesan. G. G~ Sits BD1dI, S Book Company. Chatterjee &: Co., 8, Jlacbaram Chatterjee Lane. Superintendent, Govt. PrInting, Central Pro. Chnkervertty, Chatterjee &: Co., Ltd~, 13, Collega NEW DELHI­ Square. lIbawnanl &: Bona. D .... Gupta &: Co., 64/8, College Street. lain Book Agency, Connanght PIaoe. Hlndn Library, 187·P, lIaIaram De Street. Ram.. h Book Depot &: StatJouery Hart, Co PIaoe. LahIrI &: Co., Ltd., M...... S. X. Saraswatl Book Depot, 16, Lady Hardlage B< Newman &: Co., Ltd., llesara. W. Roy Chowdhury '" Co., Mesan. N. M., 72, Harrison PATNA-Superinteudent, Government I'riotIn8 Road. - P.O.GwUll~ . Sarear '" Bona, Messrs. K. C., 15, College Square. PATNA CITY- Lakshmi Trading Co., Padri-Id-Havell. Sarkar '" Bona, Ltd., Mesara. S. c., Ill/I·e, College Square. Raghunath Prasad '" Bona. Standard Law Book Society, 79/1, Hantaon Road. PESHAWAR.- Loudon Book Co. (India), Arbab Road. Tbacker, Spink &: po. (1933), Ltd. Hanager, Govt. Printing &: Statiouery, N.-W.: Wheeler '" Co., M....... A. H. PESBAWAR CANTT.-PaqD1r Chand ManraIL CAWNPORE-Advalll '" Co., The Mall. POONA- C0pt~~Valdyanatba Iyer, L., Tarakad Honse, Dastaue lime., Home ServIce, 456, Rawl.... P Deccan Bookstall, Fergnason College Road.. CUTTACX-Presa OlBcer, 0rIYa Secretariat. Intematiooal Book Service. DRRRA DUlr-logai XIshore &: Co. DELHI- Ram XrIshna lime., Oppoelte lIlsbram lIagh. Central Book Depot, Xaslunere Gate. , QUETTA-Standard BookstalL Federal Law Depot, XasIunere Gate. RAlXOT-llobaD1a1 Doeabbal Shah. Imperial lIook Depot and Press, N_ lama llasjld RAWALPINDI-Ray &: Boos, ldesBra. I., 43,1 (lddCbbliwalan). Edward.. Road.. Indian Army Book Depot, Dsryagaoj. BHILLONG­ lalna &: Broe., Meaara. 1. ll., Morl Gate. Cbapala Bookstall. Oxford Book and Ststfonl!f7 Co. Superintendent, Asaaru Secretariat I'nlea. Bbarda llandir, Ltd., Nal Sarak. SIALXOT CITY-CUCton'" Co. Y ODDg Man &: Co. (Regd.), Egerton Road. TRICBINOPOLY lI'ORT-XrlsIma.owaml &; Co. D~1;.~:d~ BAlW.-.ToahI, Mr. V. G.. Ben ~t (N B., Teppafmlam. VELLORB-Veukatalnbban, llr, A.o Law • Personnel of the Committee. Chairman Dr. P. J. Thomas, M.A., B.Litt.• D.Phl1. (Oxon.). Member Rai Bahad~ H. Mookerje, A.M.O.T. Secretary Mr. B. P. Adarkar, M.A. (Oanta.b.). 'lABLE OF CONTENTS. PA!U. P.tGlI!. l-li PRELIMINARY 1 CHAPTER I.-RECENT DEVELOPMENTS IN THE HAND-WEAVING INDUSTRY. 6.: The old hand.weaving industry /I 7. The new hand.weaving industry 6 8j Markets of the hand.weaving industry 6 9: Handlooms and Mills (1896-1914) 7 10. Eff6cta of the War, 1914·18 9 11, Post·war developments 10 12, Tariff policy • 12 13. The Khruldar movement • 13 14- Changes in clothing habits 16 III Growing competition 18 If!.. Silk handloom industry 18 17. The overseas market 19 ,18. Powerlooms i' 19 19. Trade depression 20 20. Wea vera' condition after 1930 20 21. Measures adopted by the Provincial and State Governments 22 2~. The Government of India's grant.in.aiq 23 2*. Appointment of ~e Fact.Finding Committee 24 1 CHAPTER II.-EXTENT OF THE INDUSTRY. I. NUMBER Oil' LOOMS. J General 26 21>. Totsl number oflooms 27- 211. Working and Idl8 LoomlJ • 29- ~. Looms classified according to textiles 30 28. Types of handlooms 31 29. 'throw.shuttle looms 32 110. Fly.shuttle looms • 3a Semi.automatic looma. 34 The "vaila}>le s~tiatiC8 !l5 t Recent trends _ i:. 36 34. Censl,18 for .1941 _ • /" 39· m. PtlWERLOOMS. (33. Powerlooms 39 IV. -A SunVEY 01/ CENTRES 01/ PRODUOTION. 36. Principal centreS of production 41. CHAPTER m:.--STATIS:I'ICS ,OF HANDLOOM PRODUCTION. 37. Difficulties of statistical estimation ii CONTENTS. PARA. PAG•• i. ESTIMATB 01' COTTON YARN USED BY lIANDLOOH INDUSTBY. 38. Data available 45 39. Shares of mill-spun yam 46 (a) Mills 46 (b) Other sharers 47 40. Earlier estimates .' 47 41. The residu~,Jmethod of computation .. 49 42. Group I: Hosiery, powerloom and jute mills 50 43. Group II: Miscellaneous and non·textile uses 52 44. Consumption of yam by the. handloom in~ustry .' .' 53 . ii. E.STIMA,TB 01' TOTAL PBODUOTloN BASBD ON WOBXlNG LoOMB_ 41i. Estimate of handloomproduction based upon numbeY of working 100Dlll ~7 iii. ESTIMATES OJ' TOTAL PBoDUtlTION SUPPLIED BY THB PBOVDfOUL AND STATE .GoVERNMENTS. 46. Direoteetimates of handloom cloth production supplied by Pra.inces and States • • • . • • •.. " • • • 60 47. Estimate of the total value of hand-woven cloth annually proddced. in B.ritisb India and States • • • • • • • , • " 61 18. Concl~on. 63 CHAPrER IV. ...:...sTRUCTURE OF THE HAND-WEAVING INDUSTRY. 49. Nature of the industry • 63 50_ Hand-weaving a full-time oocupation' 63 51. Weavers' castes 64 62. New entrants M 53. Handloom industry urban or rural , 65 54. Weavers' population in urban eeokelt ~, 00 55. Urba.nisation of the industry 6T 66. Localisation of the industry 67 57. Weavers' craft guilds .. 68 58. Intervention of middlemen. 69 59. Changes in the industrial structure 70 60. Types of middlemen 71 61. The Sowcar-weavers and others 71 62. Systems of advances . 73, 63. A three-fold oontract 73 64. Handloom factories or kark1.anu 75 65. Limited eoonomies of the karkhana.t 78 66. The entrepreneurs' position in the industry 78 1 67. TypeII ofweavera • ". '" 79 (i) Independent weaver 79 (ii) Contract worker 80 (iii) Out-worker 80 (iv) The wage-worker 80 68_ Wages and earnings 81 69. Employment" 83 70. Indsbtedness 85 71. Labourers' and employers' organisationl 86 71. A pageant ~f industrial 8yat~ma 81 APPENDICES. APPENDICES. PAG•• L Preas communique issued by the Fact.Finding Committee on $e 27th January 1941 244 U. Preliminllry letter addressed to all Provincial Governments and StIltee on the 7th February 1941 m. List of Governments, aesoci&tions, individullls, etc., from whom replies to our questionnaire or representations or memoranda were receiVlld .' 248 IV. List of centres visited and persons interviewed 25'J V. Information regarding handloom SlU'Veys and enquiries conducted in varioua Provinces and States during recent years 265 VI. A select glouary of terms relating to hand·made cotton fabrics 266 VU. Consumption of yam by hosiery factories' • • 271 VIII. A Note on the consump~ion of cotton yarn by powerloomB • .' 273 IX. Cotton yarn consumption by jute mills .' 275 X. Cotton yarn used in the production of fishing nets 276 XL Consumption of cotton yarn for the manufacture of Cotton rope and twine ~. 277 XII. Consumption of yarn for cotton tIlpe. niwar, etc. '278 xm. Cotton yarn consumed in the making of Cotton Braids • 279 XIV. Cotton yarn consumed in cottoa sewing, darning, embroidery and other sundry trades • • • • • • • . '280 XV. Relation between weight of yarn, yardage of cloth and weight of Cloth • 283 XVI. StIltement showing the .. free yarn .. Ilvailable for sale • 285 Xvu. StIltement showing the yarn .. available" to the handloom industry as a residu&l b&lance. • • • • • • • • • ,287 XVIII. StIltement showing the estimated cotton cloth production of the hand. loom industry 288 XIX. Annual production of cotton cloth in India • 289 XX. Annual production of cotton cloth on the basis of the new ratios .290 XXI. StIltement regarding the consumption of cotton cloth in India and the percentllge shares of mills, handioomB and foreign imports •• 291 XXI·A. Five year Moving Averages of the Annu&l Consumption of Cloth in India • • • • • • • • • • • • 292 XXII. Annual Consumption of Cotton Cloth in India on the hasis of new ratios (1931·39) 293 XXIII. Produotion per loom in 8 hours to • 294 XXIV. Methods of preparation of yam .
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