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Silk-Weaving in Sweden During the 19Th Century. Textiles and Texts - an Evaluation of the Source Material
Thesis for the degree of Licentiate of Philosophy SILK-WEAVING IN SWEDEN DURING THE 19TH CENTURY. Textiles and texts - An evaluation of the source material. Martin Ciszuk Translation Magnus Persson www.enodios.se Department of Product and Production Development Design & Human Factors CHALMERS UNIVERSITY OF TECHNOLOGY Gothenburg, Sweden 2012 Silk-weaving in Sweden during the 19th century. Textiles and texts - An evaluation of the source material. Martin Ciszuk © Martin Ciszuk, 2012 Technical report No. 71 ISSN 1652-9243 Department of Product and Production Development Chalmers University of Technology SE-412 96 Gothenburg SWEDEN Telephone: +46 (0)31- 772 10 00 Illustration: Brocatell, interior silk woven for Stockholm Royal pallace by Meyersson silk mill in Stock- holm 1849, woven from silk cultivated in Sweden, Eneberg collection 11.183-9:2 (Photo: Jan Berg Textilmuseet, Borås). Printed by Strokirk-Landströms AB Lidköping, Sweden, 2012 www.strokirk-landstroms.se Silk-weaving in Sweden during the 19th century. Textiles and texts - An evaluation of the source material. Martin Ciszuk Department of Product and Production Development Chalmers University of Technology Abstract Silk-weaving in Sweden during the 19th century. Textiles and texts - An evaluation of the source material. With the rich material available, 19th century silk-weaving invites to studies on industrialisation processes. The purpose of this licentiate thesis is to present and discuss an empirical material regarding silk production in Sweden in the 19th century, to examine the possibilities and problems of different kinds of materials when used as source materials, and to describe how this material can be systematized and analysed in relation to the perspective of a textile scientific interpretation. -
Simply Schools 2020–21
2020 Learning with Museums & –2021 Galleries across Lancashire www.simplyschools.org.uk Welcome to Welcome to the Simply Schools 2020–21 brochure, we are confident that you will find ideas and inspiration from our Heritage Learning site activities, CPD, loans boxes and outreach, and from those activities delivered by our wider museum partners. Heritage Learning is back for 2020/2021 It gives me the greatest pleasure to with new sessions, projects and announce that the Heritage Learning programmes. Last year the Heritage Team will be delivering the learning Learning Team delivered site sessions, programmes on behalf of the Harris outreach and loans boxes that engaged Museum, Art Gallery and Library in with over 35,000 school children Preston from September 2020. across Lancashire. We have once again David Brookhouse worked with schools on some amazing As part of the national DfE funded Heritage Learning Manager projects including ‘Lancashire Sparks’ Museums and Schools Programme, we an exploration of Lancashire’s intangible are always keen to work with teachers 01772 535075 heritage through clog dancing, music and schools to develop our learning and literacy. The TIME project continues offer. Our themes for this year are STEM, to work successfully with schools Literacy and teacher development. embedding the creative arts into the curriculum. Please contact us if you The funding for Heritage Learning comes would like more information about our from a de-delegated budget which range of new school projects. schools vote to continue each year. This funding allows the team to deliver Once again our teacher CPD, twilight award winning, high quality cultural and INSET programmes have grown from learning across Lancashire. -
The Textile Museum Thesaurus
The Textile Museum Thesaurus Edited by Cecilia Gunzburger TM logo The Textile Museum Washington, DC This publication and the work represented herein were made possible by the Cotsen Family Foundation. Indexed by Lydia Fraser Designed by Chaves Design Printed by McArdle Printing Company, Inc. Cover image: Copyright © 2005 The Textile Museum All rights reserved. No part of this document may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means -- electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise -- without the express written permission of The Textile Museum. ISBN 0-87405-028-6 The Textile Museum 2320 S Street NW Washington DC 20008 www.textilemuseum.org Table of Contents Acknowledgements....................................................................................... v Introduction ..................................................................................................vii How to Use this Document.........................................................................xiii Hierarchy Overview ....................................................................................... 1 Object Hierarchy............................................................................................ 3 Material Hierarchy ....................................................................................... 47 Structure Hierarchy ..................................................................................... 55 Technique Hierarchy .................................................................................. -
Identifying Woven Textiles 1750-1950 Identification
Identifying Woven Textiles 1750–1950 DATS in partnership with the V&A 1 Identifying Woven Textiles 1750–1950 This information pack has been produced to accompany two one-day workshops taught by Katy Wigley (Director, School of Textiles) and Mary Schoeser (Hon. V&A Senior Research Fellow), held at the V&A Clothworkers’ Centre on 19 April and 17 May 2018. The workshops are produced in collaboration between DATS and the V&A. The purpose of the workshops is to enable participants to improve the documentation and interpretation of collections and make them accessible to the widest audience. Participants will have the chance to study objects at first hand to help increase their confidence in identifying woven textile materials and techniques. This information pack is intended as a means of sharing the knowledge communicated in the workshops with colleagues and the wider public and is also intended as a stand-alone guide for basic weave identification. Other workshops / information packs in the series: Identifying Textile Types and Weaves Identifying Printed Textiles in Dress 1740–1890 Identifying Handmade and Machine Lace Identifying Fibres and Fabrics Identifying Handmade Lace Front Cover: Lamy et Giraud, Brocaded silk cannetille (detail), 1878. This Lyonnais firm won a silver gilt medal at the Paris Exposition Universelle with a silk of this design, probably by Eugene Prelle, their chief designer. Its impact partly derives from the textures within the many-coloured brocaded areas and the markedly twilled cannetille ground. Courtesy Francesca Galloway. 2 Identifying Woven Textiles 1750–1950 Table of Contents Page 1. Introduction 4 2. Tips for Dating 4 3. -
Henry James and Romantic Revisionism: the Quest for the Man of Imagination in the Late Work
HENRY JAMES AND ROMANTIC REVISIONISM: THE QUEST FOR THE MAN OF IMAGINATION IN THE LATE WORK A Dissertation Submitted to the Temple University Graduate Board In Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree DOCTOR OF PHILOSOPHY (OF ENGLISH ) By Daniel Rosenberg Nutters May 2017 Examining Committee Members: Daniel T. O’Hara, Advisory Chair, English Alan Singer, English Steve Newman, English Robert L. Caserio, External Member, Pennsylvania State University Jonathan Arac, External Member, University of Pittsburgh © Copyright 2017 by Daniel Rosenberg Nutters All Rights Reserved ii ABSTRACT This study situates the late work of Henry James in the tradition of Romantic revisionism. In addition, it surveys the history of James criticism alongside the academic critique of Romantic-aesthetic ideology. I read The American Scene, the New York Edition Prefaces, and other late writings as a single text in which we see James refashion an identity by transforming the divisions or splits in the modern subject into the enabling condition for renewed creativity. In contrast to the Modernist myth of Henry James the master reproached by recent scholarship, I offer a new critical fiction – what James calls the man of imagination – that models a form of selfhood which views our ironic and belated condition as a fecund limitation. The Jamesian man of imagination encourages the continual (but never resolvable) quest for a coherent creative identity by demonstrating how our need to sacrifice elements of life (e.g. desires and aspirations) when we confront tyrannical circumstances can become a prerequisite for pursuing an unreachable ideal. This study draws on the work of post-war Romantic revisionist scholarship (e.g. -
Lancashire: a Chronology of Flash Flooding
LANCASHIRE: A CHRONOLOGY OF FLASH FLOODING Introduction The past focus on the history of flooding has been mainly with respect to flooding from the overflow of rivers and with respect to the peak level that these floods have achieved. The Chronology of British Hydrological Events provides a reasonably comprehensive record of such events throughout Great Britain. Over the last 60 years the river gauging network provides a detailed record of the occurrence of river flows and peak levels and flows are summaried in HiflowsUK. However there has been recent recognition that much flooding of property occurs from surface water flooding, often far from rivers. Locally intense rainfall causes severe flooding of property and land as water concentrates and finds pathways along roads and depressions in the landscape. In addition, intense rainfall can also cause rapid rise in level and discharge in rivers causing a danger to the public even though the associated peak level is not critical. In extreme cases rapid rise in river level may be manifested as a ‘wall of water’ with near instantaneous rise in level of a metre or more. Such events are usually convective and may be accompanied by destructive hail or cause severe erosion of hillsides and agricultural land. There have been no previous compilations of historical records of such ‘flash floods’or even of more recent occurrences. It is therefore difficult to judge whether a recent event is unusual or even unique in terms of the level reached at a particular location or more broadly of regional severity. This chronology of flash floods is provided in order to enable comparisons to be made between recent and historical floods, to judge rarity and from a practical point of view to assess the adequacy of urban drainage networks. -
The Jacquard Machine
The Jacquard Machine By Yoshito Miura, Yoshinosuke Nakajyo and Kunio Suzuki, Members,TMSJ Kyoto Technological University, Kyoto Abstract This article looks into problems which would accompany an attempt to increase the speed of looms equipped with a jacquard machine. Each lingo vibrates violently with an increase in speed. The grade of its vibrations was judged by the distribution of points of the lingo's descents. As a way to judge that state, sparks were discharged from a lingo placed on special re- cording paper. A controlled plate for the harness was devised in order to narrow the range of distribution of points of the lingo's descent. A plate was also devised to control the vibrations of the harness. The defective parts resulting from a speed increase were improved, and the warp tension and the weight of the lingo were investigated. The results of these efforts suggest that the speed of a loom equipped with a jacquard machine, at present, 130 rpm, can be increased to a maximum of 180 rpm. 1. Introduction be Y=--:;:2(1) ..... The speed of a loom equipped with a jacquard where a is the distance between the cloth fell and the forward surface of the shuttle; b, the distance machine is usually 90 to 130 rpm., considerably lower than the speed of a loom without a jacquard machine. between the cloth fell and the counpling or the It is mainly because of the shedding equipment and heald : and c, the height of the shuttle. the shuttle change equipment, but the shuttle change Assuming that N rpm is the speed of the loom will not be discussed here. -
Handwoven Marc/April 2010 Tricks of the Trade
Tricks of the Trade Getting into the Fold tips for doublewidth weaving from tom knisely Planning a doublewide fabric Weaving a fabric twice as wide as the weaving width of your loom is a thrilling experience. Many weavers miss out on it because they are afraid of the biggest challenge: weaving so that when the fabric is unfolded, there is no evidence that it ever was folded. This is difficult for several reasons: Draw-in causes threads to be denser at the selvedges, so the same thing will happen at the fold edge of a doublewide fabric. Avoiding draw-in by turning the weft loosely at the fold edge can cause weft loops and other irregularities there. Here are some things you can do to weave a smooth and invisible fold line. Choose warp stripes Stripes in the warp—even narrow stripes—draw the eye to the stripes instead of to irregularities created by crowded warp threads or too much or too little weft tension. If the warp stripes are wider than a thread or two (they are narrow for this blanket), make the stripe at the fold a dark color and Sleying the reed use a dark weft. Any differences in density or alignment show Loosen the sett at much less in dark colors. the fold edge Only sampling can help you determine the ideal sett at the fold for a particular yarn and weave structure. For the blanket on pages 30–32, sleying the last two ends singly instead of two per dent counteracts draw-in to create the right density at the fold. -
Key Industrial Designated Heritage Sites
KEY INDUSTRIAL DESIGNATED HERITAGE SITES This document provides an overview of what type of industrial site each area of England is most famous for and provides some examples of those that are best known, both by locals and in terms of their historical and national significance. EAST MIDLANDS The region has a wide variety of sites ranging from the lead mines of the Peak District and the collieries of the East Midland coalfield to the textile mills and workshops of the Derwent valley, Nottinghamshire and Leicestershire and the renowned boot and shoe factories of Northamptonshire. Derwent Valley Mills World Heritage Site, Derbyshire The first successful water powered mechanisation of the textile industry was achieved in 1721 at the Lombe Brothers silk mills at Derby and even more significantly by Richard Arkwright with the water powered mechanisation of the cotton industry at Cromford. The subsequent development of the factory system changed society and the role of the mills has been recognised by the creation of a World Heritage Site stretching from Matlock Bath to Derby. Many of the most significant sites survive including Arkwright’s first mills at Cromford Mill and his associated village, his Masson Mill, the Strutt family mills and settlements at Belper and Milford and the Evans family mills and settlement at Darley Abbey. Nottingham Lace Market Nottingham was the centre of the East Midlands lace industry and a spectacular commercial precinct developed in the mid 19th century in the town. Ruddington Framework Knitters Workshops, Nottinghamshire Domestic based industry was a vital component of the textile industry and the workshops at Ruddington have been preserved as a museum to celebrate their significance. -
GIPE-020070-Contents.Pdf
SERVANTS Oll' INDIA SOCIETY'S LIBRARY, , POOHA ,. FOR INTERNAL CIRCULATION ITo be returned on or before the last date stamped below ~.5I1A y :g6 .... namtRJayaraG Gadgillibrary Ilm~ II11I a~ IUlium lUll mlill GIPE-PUN~-020070 X91(\'<\ 1 9. '2.. .N ,; \t i-{2--- ~co70 t Sf i ................... ~........... , .. REPORT OF TIlE. FACT .. FINDING COMMITTEE (HANDLOOM AND MILLS) PUBLISHEIl BY THE MANAGER OF PUBLICATIONS, DELHI PRINTED BY THE MANAGER, GOVERNMENT OF INDIA 'P'RESS, OALCUTTA 1942 List of Agents in India from whom Government of India Publications are available. AlIBOTTABAD-Bngllsh Book .Store. DHARWAB-Sbrl Sbankar Xarnataka Bbandara. AGRA- English Book Depot, Taj Road. PEROZEPORE-Bngllsh Book Depot. Indfan Army Book Depot, Dayalbagh. GW ALIOB-laln II; Bros., M....... lL 1I., Barala NatJooal Book H01Il!e, leomondl. HYDERABAD (DECCAN)- AHMEDABAD- Dom1n1on Book Conoeru, Hydergnda. Chandra Kant Cblman Lal Vom. Hyderabad Book Depot, Cbadergbat. H. L. College of Commerce C<H>perative Store, Ltd. lAIPUB-Garg Book Co., Trlpolla lIa&ar. AJ:MEBr-Bantblya &: Co., Ltd., Station Road. KARACIII- Aero Store&. AXOLA-BakshJ, K. G. xr. Standard BookataIL ALLAHABAD- • Ventral Book Depot, 44, lobDatongan\. KARACHI (SADAR)-Manager, SI.nd Governmm Depot and Record OlBce. X1tablstan. 17·A, City Road. Ram N araln Lal, I, Bank Road. LAHORE- Imperiall'1lblishlng Co., 99, RaIlway Road. Superintendent, Prlntlug and Statlouery, U. P. Kansll &; Co., K ....... N. C~ 9, Commerclal B. Wheeler &: Co., K ....... A. H. TbeMa1l. lIANGALORB CITY-Premier Book Co. llalhotra &: Co., ll....... U. P~ Poet Box No. II< lIARODA-East and West Book H01Il!e. )llnerva Book Shop, Auarllall Street. lIELGAUM-Model Book Depot, Xhade lIaaar. -
Pavendar Bharathidasan College of Arts and Science Department of Aparel and Fashion Technology
PAVENDAR BHARATHIDASAN COLLEGE OF ARTS AND SCIENCE DEPARTMENT OF APAREL AND FASHION TECHNOLOGY SUBJECT : INDIAN TEXTILE, EMBROIDERY AND COSTUMES SUB CODE: 16SCCAF4 CLASS: II AFT UNIT-I ORIGIN OF COSTUMES PART-A 1. What is a human needs and development of clothing? Social scientists have been discussing for a long time as to what motivated human being to begin to wear clothes. The explanations most often by the experts are Protection, Modestly, Self-adornment. Each of these theories based the development of clothing on the desire to satisfy the human needs and wants. 2. What is a stronger than fashion? Modesty is based on tradition also because tradition is stronger than fashion and basic necessity. Traditional heavy garments of Arab women in extreme heat. The lack of clothing worn in extreme cold. These are classic examples of the importance of traditional values over desire for protective and modesty. 3. Define Beginning of costume. Since the first people put on the first pieces of clothing, what people wear has been in a constant change. Today changes are mostly related to style or fashion but for thousands of year’s change in clothes were made out of necessity. The first clues about clothes date back to around 75,000 to 100,000 years, No written records exist from those days. Painting , Cutting and Tattooing. 4. Draped garments of different civilization were called as follows: Draped fabric has another advantage of taking on a variety of shapes depending on how it is draped. Egyptians - Schenti Greeks - Chiton and himation Romans - Togas and stolas India - Saris and dhotis 5. -
Cover MAR APR FINAL.Cdr
SPINNING PEER REVIEWED The Process Dynamics of Egyptian Cotton G-86 with a Compact Spinning Machine Ibrahim A. Elhawary1* & Mohamed Y. Naeim2 1Alex Univercity, Egypt 2SETT-COR Spin Mill, Egypt Abstract In the present work, Giza 86 cotton (long staple cotton) was used to produce a different fine yarn with counts 14.7, 11.8, 10.5, 9.8, and 7.4tex on both of compact and ring spinning frames. The different yarn properties like, CVm%, tenacity, elongation, and hairiness were measured for both the two type of yarns. The relative yarn quality factor RYQF was calculated to detect the more suitable range of yarn counts for the compact spinning it was found that it ranges from 1.1 to 1.3 for range of yarn tex from 14.7 to 7.4 referring to the hairiness reduction it was found to be 31% for yam tex 9.8 the improvement in the yarn breaking elongation was 10%, the improvement in the yarn tenacity was 14%, while the reduction in the turns per meter in the compact spinning was 4%. And improvement in the yam mass variation was about 5%. On the other hand it was found that the improvement in the single compact yarn total imperfections was not statistically significant, But generally it was found that the yarn total imperfections of the single yarn were less for the compact spun yarns compared with the conventional ring spun yarns especially for the fine counts. 1. Introduction applied onto the yarn. Fibers are caught by the air Compact spinning is a new conversion for the ring current in the perforated drum soon after they leave spinning and it started to be applied in the Egyptian the nip point until they reach the nip point.