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Issue No. 239 Friday, November 03 - Thursday, November 16, 2017 Even when the Democrats longas continue to likely is This also are negotiations Drawn-out Surely the situation is urgent Many of us who have experi - We feel in-the-know because bia has shown us that (a.) no single no (a.) that us shown has bia party or coalition will ever gain the governa - form to required majority negotiations political (b.) and ment, will never be quickly concluded. achieved their surprising result at last month’s general election, quickly it became clear that the - re sult was actually more-or-less the result election other every as same in Serbia, i.e. inconclusive. as Serbia’s politicians form new political parties every time disagree with they their current party - reg 342 currently are (there leader political parties in Serbia). istered the norm. One Ambassador Belgrade-based recently told me he was also alarmed by the distinct lack of urgency among politicians. Serbian “The country is standstill at and a I don’t understand their logic. If they are so eager to progress towards the EU and en - theycome how investors, courage go home at 5pm sharp and don’t work weekends?” overtime. little a warrant to enough EDITOR’S WORD Predictability Political By Mark R. Pullen elections Serbian numerous enced rate ourselves as pundits when it comes to predicting election - re sults and post-election moves. our experience of elections in Ser - - - Balkan NEWS NEWS

Muslims Stage “The situation in the party seems “Dacic will eventually side with Nikolic agreed: “The question is Fearing they might not cross the Pensioners leader, Jovan Krkoba - The reported price is the post of In addition, the Socialists are bar Tadic has denied talk of horse- At the same time, Dacic seems re - reach an agreement “If we don’t Source: Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Balkan Insight (www.balkaninsight.com) Source: Counteroffensive party over which way to turn. extremely complicated, as we try to convince the few remaining lag - gards that we need to move out of one Socialist shadow,” Milosevic’s Party official complained. in a bid to guide his party into Tadic the European mainstream, but much of the membership and many offi - cials may oppose that move.” will the party split or ‘old- back down,” he noted. timers’ threshold to enter parlia - 5-per-cent ment, the Socialists teamed up with Association of Pensioners and the the led by business - United Serbia Party, man Dragan Markovic “Palma”. bic, Palma and Dacic are all pushing for a deal with the Democrats. of deputy PM, with a brief in charge security for the Socialist leader. gaining for other ministries, includ - ing capital investments, Kosovo and education, Belgrade media reported. trading with the Socialists, maintain - ing that ministries would go only to those committed to working for the “strategic goal”. government’s negotiations with luctant to call off the nationalists. with the DSS and Radicals, par ty leadership will decide on future steps”, Dacic announced, following par new country’s of session first the liament on Wednesday. Against page 10 hile the football world watch - es events unfold at the Euro -

Radicals a strong current also However, Mihajlo Markovic, a founder of Markovic, a prominent supporter Some younger Socialist officials Neighbourhood Matters faces extinction unless it changes. flows in the opposite direction, led by party veterans enraged the Tadic. prospect of a deal with recently warned of a crisis the party, if Dacic opts for the pro-European “nat - bloc, abandoning the Socialists’ ural” ideological partners. of Milosevic during the 1990s, is seen as representative of the “old- timers” in the party who want to stay policies, true to the former regime’s even though these almost ruined the Socialists for good. have voiced frustration over the con - tinuing impasse within their own Football Rebellion Football pean Championships in Austria and pean Championships in Switzerland, Bosnia is experiencing led by fans, play - a soccer rebellion, enraged ers and former stars who are by what they see as corrupt leaders football association of the country’s leaders. W Issue No. 1 / Friday, June 13, 2008 Issue No. 1 / Friday, Balkan youth have been an easy target for extremists page 5 seeking to radicalise them and convince them to fight abroad, but now parents, activists and conomists are warning that pro - over Serbia’s uncertainty longed “This year has been lost, from the After eight years of stagnation, the pro-European and nation - With Nikolic believes the Socialists, led “The group of younger Socialists Business Insight Costs Mounting future could scare off investors, lead investors, lead future could scare off to higher inflation and jeopardise prosperity for years to come. says standpoint of economic policy,” Econom - the of Stamenkovic Stojan ics Institute in Belgrade. to Serbia’s late president, Slobodan to Serbia’s Milosevic, and reformists who want the party to become a modern Euro - pean social democrat organisation. the Socialists returned to centre stage after winning 20 of the 250 seats in elections. parliament in the May 11 alist blocs almost evenly matched, the Socialists now have the final say on the fate of country. by Ivica Dacic, will come over to if only out of a pragmatic de - Tadic, sire to ensure their political survival. gathered around Dacic seems to be adding said, Nikolic majority”, the in that these reformists believe the party official Islamic organisations E are striking back. Friday • June 13 2008 Pages 2 and 3 THIS ISSUE OF Belgrade Insight IS SUPPORTED BY: IS SUPPORTED ense negotiations on a new gov - ense negotiations ernment have divided the ranks “It looks as if the Socialists will Simultaneous negotiations held This divides “old-timers” loyal Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains the Serbian kingmaker Socialist leader Ivica Dacic remains Lure of Tadic Alliance Splits Socialists Tadic Lure of government, old pro-EU While younger Socialists support joining a new, over the prospect. revolt Milosevic loyalists threaten in Belgrade By Rade Maroevic of the Socialist Party, which holds of the Socialist Party, of the balance power between the blocs and has yet to announce main which side they will support. move towards a government led by the Democrats,” political analyst Mi - lan Nikolic, of the independent Cen - tre of Policy Studies, said. “But such a move might provoke deeper divi - sions and even split the party.” with the pro-European and national - ist blocs have drawn attention to a deep rift inside the Socialists. T

According to Serbian police, around 50 people from Sandzak left to fight for the Islamist cause.

Photo: Flickr/Ian Bancroft

+381 11 4030 306 [email protected] 2 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 03 - Thursday, November 16, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 03 - Thursday, November 16, 2017 3 SERBIA SERBIA

Continued from page 1 Balkan Muslims Stage Counteroffensive Against Radicals

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knew little about faith,” a 31-year-old Muslim from Sarajevo told BIRN, re- membering his introduc- tion to radical Islam. “I“In high school, we did everything but study - concerts, pot and alcohol,” he recalled. “After high school, I took a break from college and got a job as a waiter because I could no longer live on a dol- lar or two from my parents. There I met a girl who took me into the world of Is- lam,” he said. He joined the Salafi movement and soon became, as he put it, “very radi- cal”. “I started fasting every other day, be- cause I thought I needed to catch up… I grew a beard, went to the [Saudi Ara- bia-funded King] Fahd Mosque. A lot of brothers were there. I met them and then joined in some of their activities. I went to Brijesce [district of Sarajevo], to the dzemat [unregistered mosque] of theirs for lectures,” he said. Most of his radical ‘brothers’ at the dzemat ended up joining Islamic State in the Middle East, he said - but he, on the other hand, started focusing on his studies again and dropped out of Islamist circles after four years. If he had not, he could have ended up like Esad Kundakovic’s son, who was killed four years ago when Syr- ian President Bashar Al Assad’s forces launched an offensive against the city of Aleppo. Eldar Kundakovic, a student of psychology who came from the Ser- bian town of Novi Pazar in the major- ity Muslim-populated Sandzak area, decided to travel to Syria to “help his Muslim brothers”, his father Esad Kundakovic explained. Esad Kundakovic knew about his son Eldar’s intention to go and fight and tried to prevent him, but Eldar was convinced that his mission was just. He told his father he was going to Istanbul to study, but he ended up in Aleppo. The last time Esad Kundakovic heard from his son was in the spring of Sarajevo has seen an increase in radical Islamism, and young people have been joining the self-proclaimed Islamic State in the Middle East. Photo: Flickr/Andreas Lehner Due to the bad economic situation in the Balkans, young people’s expectations are not being fulfilled, Photo: Medija Centar Beograd 2013. In May, he was killed. says Predrag Petrovic from the Belgrade Centre for Security Studies. Since his son’s death, Kundakovic has tried to help prevent other young- He also talks to young people online negative role in pushing youngsters inviting him to roundtables where is- Official Islamic bodies in Albania the time. I personally use them, more emergence of influential forces such as Petrovic said that radicals have tak- The Islamic Community in Bosnia sters from the Sandzak area from go- about the information they find on the into radicalism through the strong ide- sues about Islam and peace were dis- have also started looking at different to give the counter-narrative in cases Islamic foundations with radical ideas. en advantage of young people seeking and Herzegovina has also become ing to join the wars in the Middle East. internet or get from radical preachers. ology of extreme political Islam,” Indrit cussed," he explained. ways to positively influence believers, in which incorrect forms of Islam are The unemployment rate in Albania information online. more involved in youth education and According to Serbian police, around “I read it together with young peo- Abdiaj, director of Albanian Muslim In- According to Abdiaj, the young man young people in particular. being preached online,” he told BIRN. during the period 2010-15 was around “The internet offers young people other forms of engagement in the re- 50 people from Sandzak have gone to ple and then we interpret it together tellectual Forum and a founder of the gradually started to change his beliefs Although they were traditionally 18 to 21 per cent of the total workforce; all kind of information, and they need cent years, either through targeted lec- fight for the Islamist cause. so they can get a wider picture. But if Youth Development Centre for Profes- as he understood that the overwhelm- In the case of Albania, self- oriented towards direct communica- POVERTY CREATES FERTILE even higher in the regions from which fast answers, so then they return to tures about values of Islam, or through Kundakovic, a tailor by trade, said he a young man reads alone all night, and sional Enhancement in the town of El- ing majority of Muslims rejected ex- proclaimed imams have tion in mosques, many of them are GROUND FOR EXTREMISTS most of the Albanian extremists who those who offer them these answers,” gatherings across Bosnia where young is now dedicated to educating the youth he doesn’t know anything about the basan, told BIRN. tremist ideology. now online, trying to engage with went to fight in Syria and Iraq came, he said. people come to play sports. in Sandzak about religion and life. war, he is subject to being influenced,” Abdiaj said he believes that the best "He is now engaged and living a had a crucial negative role younger Muslims who might be sus- Several Balkan-based NGOs have such as Pogradec, Elbasan, Librazhd, “They are an easy target, because The Islamic Community also tries “I want to contribute with my au- he said. way to keep youngsters away from good life, while not having the ideas ceptible to radicalisation. conducted surveys exploring the Bulqize, Burrel and Diber. they want to feel safe and want to have to explain moderate Islam through its thority, and the experience I have be- radicalisation is to offer them non-vio- [that he had in] the past anymore," he in pushing youngsters into Ylly Gurra, a Tirana mufti and repre- reasons why young people turned to The unemployment rate for people a feeling that someone cares for them,” Faculty for Islamic Science in Sarajevo, cause my son died there, to help these IMAMS BATTLE FOR YOUNG lent interpretations of Islam and keep said. radicalism through the sentative of the official Albanian Islam- violent extremism, with the responses aged from 17 to 35, who are even more he added. which cooperates with other institu- young people,” he told BIRN. HEARTS AND MINDS them involved in the mainstream of However, convincing people to re- ic Community, said that imams have suggesting that most of them often felt vulnerable to radicalisation, was even Tackling this online threat is part of tions in the country to promote what “They have to understand that there Muslim society. nounce extremist ideology is not al- strong ideology of extreme been advising their followers – espe- isolated and thought they had no per- higher, in some areas surpassing 40 to a strategy adopted by the Islamic Com- it calls the “true values of Islam and its will be wars until Judgment Day, but In other Balkan countries, the radi- "We have to give them another nar- ways so easy. cially the younger ones – to stay away spective for the future. 45 per cent. munity in Serbia to combat extremism science”. we must not contribute to them,” he calisation of young people has been rative and make them part of our com- Abdiaj believes that the lack of op- political Islam. from informal mosques which are not A report by the Albanian Institute Predrag Petrovic from the Belgrade and other problems affecting young According to Zuhdija Hasanovic, said. even more problematic, as in Albania, munities," he said. portunities in life, as well as geographi- recognised by the Islamic Community, for International Studies from 2015 Centre for Security Studies told BIRN people in Novi Pazar. the dean of the faculty, the best re- Kundakovic work works for free, from where almost 150 people have Abdiaj recalled the case of a 25-year- cal and personal isolation, have helped and where radical clerics preach ex- concluded that Islamic radicalisation that there is not one specific factor The strategy envisages educating sponse to the abuse of religious val- he doesn’t have an organisation or travelled to the Middle East. old from Elbasan who, with very little the radicalisation process. Family trou- tremist interpretations of Islam. in the country has socio-economic which encourages people to embrace representatives of religious and mu- ues is to work with those who have people to work with him, but he joins In Albania, people have been target- effort from the community, was drawn bles are another factor in driving peo- Gurra used to only talk with Mus- roots, and that most Islamist extremists extremism, although he cited unem- nicipal institutions, increasing Islamic been converted to violent ideologies, various panels and debates, and goes ed by self-proclaimed imams preach- away from extremist ideas. ple towards extremism, he added. lims face to face, but now he talks on- came from remote and religious areas. ployment as one of the main issues. Community members’ communi- and to promote the true values of Is- to mosques in Novi Pazar where he ing extreme versions of Islam and pro- "We identified him as having respect "These young adults come very of- line, especially with young people. Poverty and the absence of effec- “Balkan countries are in a bad eco- cations skills, improving computer lam. Indrit Abdiaj speaks with young people who have moting violence against non-believers. and admiration for the ISIS ideology. ten from families with social problems “Most of the imams believe that tive state institutions in these areas nomic position, which is worsening, so knowledge and usage of the internet, “This is a long process which doesn’t already started to see him as a moral “In the case of Albania, self-pro- The first step was arranging a meet- caused by immigration, divorces and Director of Albanian Muslim preaching and giving advice through has created a lack of development and the expectations of young people are and working with media to develop give results rights away, but I don’t see authority who dispenses wise advice. claimed imams have had a crucial ing for him with the local imam while other traumatic events," he said. Intellectual Forum social networks is not necessary all opportunity which has facilitated the not fulfilled,” he said. better and more positive relations. the alternative,” Hasanovic said. 4 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 03 - Thursday, November 16, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 03 - Thursday, November 16, 2017 5 BELGRADE BELGRADE

Female Refugees get Belgrade Shelter Furniture Fair Showcases Global humanitarian organization Adventist Development and Relief Agency (ADRA) opened “Women’s Groundbreaking Modern Design Centre” in the Belgrade suburb of Borca on November 1. The building offers shelter to female refugees and migrants currently Belgrade’s most residing in the Serbian capital. According to ADRA, the main aim in brief Belgrade well-known of the centre is to encourage women to reintegrate and provide furniture event economic support through various programmes. “Women refugees takes place and migrants are not victims, but people who have the right to in November, realise their needs,” said ADRA’s director for Serbia, Igor Mitrovic. convening the “Women's Center is here to create the conditions for the realisation of best designers, these rights, or the realisation of some of them – and we would like to make your time more useful and manufacturers more beautiful,” he added. In the 120-sqaure-metre area women and will have the chance to meet, talk, attend various workshops, make distributers jewelry and soap, do sports and many other things. There will also from around be free psychosocial support for anyone requiring it. and beyond Belgrade Street Works the region. set to Finish in Novem- ber Mattiazzi Italian deisgn label will be presenting its goods at the Belgrade Furniture Fair. Photo: Mattiazzi

All streets in the capital that are “In one place, visitors can see the MS&WOOD and Croatia’s Prostoria. At around the same time, the 55th currently undergoing reconstruc- Ivana NIKOLIC best and most modern solutions in Apart from the famous furniture International Fair of Machinery, Tools tion will be “passable” by No- the field of furniture production,” they brands, young furniture designers and Repromaterials in the Field of the vember 16, according to Belgrade he 55th Belgrade Furniture added. will also have their moment at Young Wood Industry will take place in halls Mayor Sinisa Mali. The streets in question are Boulevard Oslobod- Fair opens on Tuesday, No- For the first time this year there will be Designers’ Exhibition, which “gathers five to nine, but will last one day less – jenja, Ruzveltova street and Slavija vember 7 and lasts until Sun- “exclusive” furniture exhibitions, organ- young and promising authors, shed- until Saturday, November 11. Sqaure. Mali also promised that Tday, November 12, at Belgrade isers said. Among those presenting them ding light on rising stars.” Visiting hours for both fairs is from by mid-December a fifth lane for Fair’s halls one to four. will be Swiss company VITRA, Italy’s There will also be a Design Talks 10am to 7pm, while the furniture fair Tapan duo Goran Simonoski (left) and Nebojsa ‘Schwabe’ Bogdanovic (right). Photo: Courtesy of Tapan vehicles will open. The reconstruc- According to the organisers, “the Mattiazzi and laCividina, France’s Fores- event, where visitors will have the will be open until 8pm from Thursday tion works on the capital’s streets focus[es] of this year's fair are eminent tier and Petite Friture, Spain’s Mobles 114, chance to hear from designers and ar- to Sunday. in have been hindering traffic for names from the sphere of the furniture Lithuania’s Emko and many others. chitects globally. A single ticket for both events costs the past several months, causing huge traffic jams, the alteration industry, renowned designers, prestig- This year, some regional brands will The most interesting part of the Fair 300 dinars (€2.52), while a group ticket of bus, tram and trolley routes ious manufacturers and companies return to the Fair after a break of a few will likely be The Golden Key prize, costs 200 dinars (€1.70). Parking at the as well as grievances among dedicated to the top design, innovation, years, including domestic brand GIR, which will be given to this year’s most nearby parking lot costs 100 dinars (80 Feeling the Beat of the Belgraders who argue that it takes quality and functionality of furniture.” Swiss company White Oak, Bosnia’s successful exhibitors. cents). too much time to get to their desired location. Balkan Refugee Route Belgrade Investment Forum Kicks Off Foreign Tourists ‘Flooding’ Serbian capital The third “Belgrade Investment Serbian Tapan’s latest release, a haunting, to react to that. I would prefer to think ing our lives when we were making Days 2017” will take place at Sava Belgrade has Ivana NIKOLIC two million,” said Miodrag Popovic from evocative soundscape called Europa, this is a normal human reaction,” Bog- these tracks and we just needed to say Centre on November 9-10, the the Tourist Organisation of Belgrade. electronic and their debut album, which shares danovic says. something,” he adds. organisers have announced. “So here was a 23 per cent rise in Foreign tourists arrive mostly from the same name and will be released With its ominous horn effects, Simonovski used to be a member far, more than 500 businessmen seen a significant a number of foreign tourists Turkey, but Germans, Croatians, Greek next month, were inspired by the peri- sweeping electronics, rattling per- of the Belgradeyard Sound System from both Serbia and abroad have dance music registered [to attend the forum],” rise in number Tvisiting Belgrade in the first and Israelis are also keen visitors, od when the Serbian capital suddenly cussion and squeals of saxophone, Nobody was talking collective, which had an eclectic ra- the City of Belgrade’s Borko nine months of 2017, in comparison to statistics says. The biggest rise was in duo Tapan have became a hub on the ‘Balkan route’ Europa is a powerful, impressionistic dio show on the celebrated but now Milosavljevic Belgrade said on of tourist visits the same period last year, Belgrade’s Israeli and Chinese citizens visiting the from the Middle East to the European soundscape. defunct independent station Radio October 31. “Topics that will con- Administration Secretariat, which is Serbian capital. turned their Union. Its feeling of foreboding also cap- about it at first. I was B92, playing post-punk, avant-garde nect us [at Belgrade Investment in 2017, local in charge of compiling statistics for the If ‘domestic’ tourists are taken into In 2015, some 600,000 refugees tures what Bogdanovic says was going every week to jazz and electronic sounds. He also re- Days] will be regional cooperation capital, stated. account, there were 18 per cent more impressions of and migrants are estimated by the the “dark and gloomy” atmosphere corded dance music under the name and the economy,” Milosavljevic statistics office said. The main panel will host From January until September, a visits this year than during the same living in Belgrade Belgrade authorities to have passed in central Belgrade when some mi- a place near the train Piece of Shh. the mayors of Belgrade, Tirana, data show. total of 652,177 foreign tourists visited period last year, data show. through the country on their way grants were living in squalid, almost Under his alias Schwabe, Bogda- Podgorica, Zagreb, Ljubljana, Belgrade. Last year, the number was Still, the real ‘influx’ of tourists is yet at the height to what they hoped would be better medieval conditions in abandoned station and I saw so novic has long been a resident DJ at Sarajevo and Banja Luka, with the just 546,838. to occur with New Year’s holidays in lives in the EU. This sudden and un- buildings behind the central railway the Disco Not Disco parties at 20/44, aim of making the capital cities “Following the trend of growth, it can mid-December. This period tradition- of the Balkan precedented influx of foreigners from station without sanitation or heating many people there, the tiny floating nightclub on the river the main drivers of future regional be expected that the total number of ally ranks first in terms of tourist visits the east came as a huge, unexpected as temperatures dropped well below Sava near Branko’s Bridge which has cooperation. overnight stays in our city will reach to Belgrade. Photo: Flickr/Jovan Markovic refugee crisis shock to the city’s consciousness. zero. and I was thinking, become a haven for more creatively “Nobody was talking about it at first. “The borders are closed so they adventurous forms of electronic into a powerful I was going every week to a place near cannot go any further to Hungary or who are these people, dance music. the train station and I saw so many Croatia because nobody wants them, “The boat is small, 100 to 150 people, ORDER DELIVERY TO new record. people there, and I was thinking, who and they are stuck in Serbia. People what are they doing but we had the possibility to make this YOUR DOOR are these people, what are they do- are freezing in the cold winter, they kind of community of people. It’s spe- Find your copy of +381 11 4030 303 ing here? I thought that maybe some have no place to live after they came cial,” Bogdanovic says. [email protected] here? I thought that Matthew COLLIN bus was broken down,” Bogdanovic here to get away from all that danger “Belgrade now is recognised as a Belgrade Insight here: www.balkaninsight.com/en/page/subscribe-to-belgrade-insight recalls. and madness and find some security,” maybe some bus was place that DJs want to play, and it’s not hen a global cri- “Then you see how these people are recalls Simonoski. about the money, it’s because they sis came to town, living - sleeping outside, living in tents, “All of this had a very strong influ- broken down. want to come here. This is something MONUMENT HOTEL HYATT INTERGALACTIC DINNER INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF FLY FLY TRAVEL it was inevitable with a lot of kids. It’s hard to ignore it, ence on the album. You can hear it like that we should be proud of, that we Address: Cika Ljubina 9 Address: Milentija Popovica 5 Address: Internacionalnih brigada 22 BELGRADE Address: YUBC Bulevar Mihajla that it would even- and of course it affects everybody. a full journey, from Syria to Europe. can make things happen here in a Address: Hotel Jugoslavija, Bulevar Address: Temisvarska 19 Pupina 10v tually spark a reac- Some people were afraid of them, Everything is there - the fear, the hope, good way,” he adds. HOTEL MOSKVA HOTEL CROWN PLAZA Mihajla Pupina 85A Wtion culturally as well as politically. these strangers in the city; they don’t the whole story,” he adds. Tapan’s music is rooted in that cul- Address: Balkanska 1 Address: Vladimira Popovica 10 THE BRITISH INTERNATIONAL RESTAURANT DVA JELENA What might have seemed less likely know who they are and they don’t Rock musicians like PJ Harvey, Max- turally progressive club environment SCHOOL OF BELGRADE Address: Skadarska 32 was that this would come from that want them here. But other people imo Park and even Coldplay have also but is not shackled to its orthodoxies. HOTEL SQUARE NINE HOTEL LE PETIT PIAFF TOURIST ORGANISATION OF Address: Smetanina 12 most carefree and hedonistic sector started to organise to do something tried to address the refugee crisis in “Our idea was always to bring in Address: Studentski trg 9 Restaurant Mali vrabac SERBIA of popular culture, electronic dance to help them, bringing them food and songs over the past couple of years. As Nebojsa ‘Schwabe’ some of the people who are playing Address: Skadarska 34 Address: Trg Republike 5 RADISSON BLU OLD music. clothes,” he says. the British musician Nadine Shah told Bogdanovic music here but are not in the dance CAFE SNEZANA MILL HOTEL, BELGRADE But that would be to overlook the The Serbian capital distinguished The Guardian newspaper recently: music scene - a guitar player, a saxo- NATIONAL FOUNDATION Address: Knez Mihailova 50 HOTEL MERIOT Address: Bulevar Vojvode Misica 15 contemporary Belgrade dance music itself with its warmly humanitarian re- “Every day, there were more harrow- phone player, a percussionist - and the FOR DANCE Address: Vase Carapica 2-4 www.radissonblu.com/hotel-belgrade scene’s roots in the city’s politically- sponse to the refugee influx - particu- ing stories and images, and it was im- good track and I would love dancing album is not classic 4/4 beats like you Address: Kolarceva 3 KOLARAC progressive counterculture of the larly the non-governmental initiatives possible to write about anything else.” to it, but when I read your story about would hear in the clubs,” says Bogda- BISTRO BAR Address: Studentski trg 5 FLY FLY TRAVEL Address: Kolarceva 7 1990s and early 2000s - turbulent that channelled Belgraders’ empathy But electronic music isn’t known for what it represents, I felt sad and it’s not novic. Address: Vojvode Stepe 198 RESTAURANT BIZU Address: Aerodrom pult years that exerted a lasting influence for the new arrivals. tackling social issues, as Simonoski ac- working for me as a dance tune any- “But it still has the massive bass, HOTEL EXCELSIOR Address: Andre Nikolica 1-3 on participants like Nebojsa ‘Schwabe’ “I think it’s normal, when you see knowledges. more,” he says. which is characteristic for our music,” Address: Kneza Milosa 5 SKVER 44 FLY FLY TRAVEL Bogdanovic and Goran Simonoski, people who are hungry, who have no “We had one comment [about Eu- “But we wanted to send a message. adds Simonoski. “And a message that Address: Pozeska 44a Address: Knez Mihailova 4 who make up the duo Tapan. place to sleep, who have small kids, ropa], and the guy said, this is a really The refugee crisis was really affect- we think needs to be heard.” 6 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 03 - Thursday, November 16, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 03 - Thursday, November 16, 2017 7 SERBIA BUSINESS COMMENT EU Mulls Start-ups in Serbia: Lower Going Against the Gloom Roaming

Although many start-up hubs and Serbian advocacy organisations are doing a Charges for great job trying to boost the profile of entrepreneurs entrepreneurship in the country, you are still likely to be met with bafflement face more than from your friends if you say you are try- Balkans ing to start a new business, especially economic and outside the prosperous IT bubble. As I received so many strange looks administrative after returning to Serbia from the UK The European the Western Balkans would “truly bring to try my luck here, I decided to start people together” and would provide “a challenges Pokretaci or 'Founders' in English), a Commission tangible reason to regain confidence weekly podcast where I interview a de- in the EU project to Balkan citizens,” termined bunch of entrepreneurs and is considering whose support for the enlargement when other self-starters in Serbia to find out process has been fading somewhat. what makes them tick, and ask them cutting roaming Despite the recent calls, one of the launching new for practical advice on how to make it major barriers in abolishing roaming in their respective fields. charges for charges is the fact that roaming regula- businesses. Besides the valuable research, I also tions are controlled by internal EU mar- did it to stave off the negativity by sur- the Western ket legislation and cannot be directly rounding myself with motivated peo- extended to operators working outside ple who managed to combine passion Balkans, following the European Single Market. and work. “The Commission has to present an As expected, most of my guests faced calls from EU interim report on the impact of Roam- a lot of negativity when they decided to ing Like at Home (RLAH) in the EU/EEA launch their projects. candidate markets to European Parliament and The founder of MOD, a budding fur- Council by the end of 2018. It is impor- niture design company, was ridiculed countries to tant to first assess the effects of RLAH for spending hours after his day job to in the EU/EEA before engaging into dis- develop his first product. After finish- abolish the fees. cussions on that matter,” the Commis- ing at the top of her class in Belgrade's sion spokesperson said. Architecture Faculty, the co-founder of Meanwhile, the EU has encouraged a successful firm, AKVS, is still subject- Mariya CHERESHEVA initiatives such as a regional agreement ed to constant questioning about why on roaming, signed in 2014 between she did not work for one of Belgrade's he European Commis- Montenegro, Serbia, Bosnia-Herzego- Srdjan GARCEVIC more established architects or contin- sioner in charge of Digital vina and Macedonia, which, according ue at the faculty. All that after winning Economy and Society, to European Commission data, has al- rying to make it on your awards at high-profile architecture Mariya Gabriel, has asked ready cut roaming costs by up to 80 per own is nerve-wracking competitions, including taking second the commission's services cent in the Western Balkans since 2015. even in the most or- place for their proposal for a memorial Tto develop a roadmap towards lower- EU figures show that the agreement, Local mobile operators are one potential obstacle preventing lower roaming prices across Photo: Flickr/Garry Knight derly of countries, but to Zoran Djindjic. ing roaming charges between the EU which still does not cover Albania and Balkan countries, according to experts. all the start-up Kool- "You need to carry on despite what and Western Balkans, a spokesperson Kosovo, has had a positive impact on Aid that Silicon Valley society expects of you. That is the only for the European Commission told both people and businesses. Tserves up nowadays is only slowly way to make it," she sighed during our BIRN. In Serbia for instance, following the seeping into the Serbian water supply. recent interview. Gabriel was the first to announce the introduction of the Regional Roaming This, of course, is primarily a result of Far from the stereotype of hyper- initiative last Wednesday at a working Agreement, data traffic increased by real economic constraints, where few confident go-getters, most of my guests meeting with EU ambassadors from 282 per cent in third quarter of 2015, How much do Balkan mobile have sufficient capital to start a busi- set out cautiously with their projects the six Western Balkan countries, add- 307.4 per cent in fourth quarter of 2015, ness or the patience and courage to and were themselves surprised by ing that the digital integration of the Bal- 235.1 per cent in the first quarter of 2016, customers pay for roaming in the EU? navigate Serbia's sclerotic administra- their own success. Some are still doing kans was her priority. and 145.8 per cent the second quarter of tive and legal system. several jobs to support their projects, “The commission has already en- 2016 when compared to the same peri- BIRN checked some of the largest Balkan mobile operators’ EU roaming prices. Prices for incoming and Nevertheless, a good deal of this which they launched more out of pas- couraged mobile operators to bring ods the previous year, according to the outgoing calls vary country to country, and mobile operators apply different pricing rates for some EU reluctance to go it alone comes from sion than to make money. roaming rates more in line with the commission. countries. For example, Macedonia, Serbia and Albania consider all EU countries to be part of one zone and negative attitudes towards entrepre- Despite the difficulties they face and underlying costs of cross-border data Mobile operators are the other po- neurship, forged during socialist times. low potential compared to entrepre- flows in the region,” the spokesperson tential obstacle to decreasing roaming implement equal pricing. However, Kosovo and Bosnia and Herzegovina do not. Back then, private business owner- neurs in wealthier markets, all of my said. However, they refrained from prices across the Balkan countries, ac- ship had unwanted bourgeois con- guests are keen to stay in Serbia. commenting on a potential timeframe cording to experts. Such a move could On average, a one-minute call to a Macedonian number from the EU costs around 1 euro, to a Serbian, notations and the country's best and Indeed, many of them turned down for the scrapping of roaming charges. cost them significant financial losses. around 1.4 euros, and to Albanian, around 2.5 euros. In Bosnia and Herzegovina and Kosovo the different brightest were primed to get cushy jobs opportunities abroad to do their own For the EU and European Economic Two of Bulgaria’s largest mobile op- European countries are spread across several zones, each with different price tariffs. Mtel Bosnia and BH in large state-linked enterprises or state thing in Serbia. They were not only drawn Area (EEA) countries (Norway, Iceland erators, Mtel and Vivacom, told BIRN Telecom, the two most popular mobile operators in Bosnia and Herzegovina have similar pricing, which administration. Those who decided by the safety of home during the treach- and Liechtenstein), the process took 10 they have been informed about the varies from around 1.3 to around 3.5 euros per minute of incoming conversation. In Kosovo, prices also to go solo or switch fields were mostly erous early phases of a business, they years. initiative. vary significantly. According to Ipko’s pricelist, a call from Germany to Kosovo costs less than 0.5 euros per considered less capable dilettantes. also missed their way of life in Serbia and The end of extra roaming charges for A spokesperson for Mtel said that the minute, while an incoming call from Cyprus or Lithuania is priced at over 2 euros. The catastrophic transition of the Serbian architecture firm AKVS has been involved in a number of national and international architecture competitions and exhibitions. Photo: AKVS were determined to prove that you can mobile communications within the EU process to end roaming charges for EU 1990s further tarnished the reputation have a decent life and be at home. and EEA arrived on June 15 this year, citizens has been “long” and requires However, most Balkan operators, offer travel data packages for their customers, which allow them to call, of entrepreneurs as the word 'business- otherwise, to be hosed down by a tor- Nevertheless, most acknowledge and was celebrated as a major success several “complicated legal changes” text and surf for significantly lower prices. man' in Serbia still conjures images of It is not rare for those with enthusiasm rent of negative questioning from even their separateness from the typical story for consumer rights. However, at an EU level. However, the company gold-chain wearing (semi-)criminal passing acquaintances, let alone over- Serbian experience and are cautiously it was swiftly followed by calls from added that the idea of extending free transitional winners who use political for projects, whether business or ly-concerned family members. moving forward. EU candidate countries in the Balkans roaming to the Balkans is still at too ear- connections for self-enrichment at the otherwise, to be hosed down by a Thankfully, in the past few years, As a co-founder of Zaokret, a very to extend the so-called “Roaming like ly a stage to be commented on in detail. all, linked to the need for lowering the expense of the state. striking out on your own has become successful indie bar in Belgrade, put it: Home” rules to the region. Several telecommunications experts prices for the termination [of calls] in the ONCE KOVAČ, ALWAYS KOVAČ It is no wonder then that despite slightly more acceptable with the fan- "If we are already living in a bubble, we On June 19, ministers of telecommu- declined comment in an official capac- Western Balkan countries which makes ONCE ”KAFANA”, ALWAYS ”KAFANA” years of high youth unemployment, torrent of negative questioning from tastic growth of the local IT sector. may as well try to make it nicer. This nications in Serbia, Bosnia and Herze- ity for the same reason, saying that Ga- the issue more complex,” it added. RESTAURANT KOVAČ oscillating between 35 per cent and 55 even passing acquaintances, let alone There are now many great stories, from will hopefully expand, at some point, govina, Montenegro and Macedonia briel’s initiative is still “political talk”. Gabriel, who is Bulgarian, is positive modern ethno restaurant per cent in the last decade, according game-developers Nordeus to fishing leading to more people living better announced they had agreed to send a Vivacom said it had positive attitude that Bulgaria could effectively use its to the World Bank – hiring freezes and overly-concerned family members. holiday platform FishingBooker, dem- lives in Serbia." joint letter to the European Commis- towards lowering roaming prices and first EU Presidency, set for the first half lay-offs, almost two-thirds of Serbs say onstrating that world-leading prod- sion, demanding the decision to abol- providing better price conditions for of 2018, to ensure the topic takes a high their dream job would be working for a ucts, and even money, can be made in Srdjan Garcevic is a writer and a ish roaming charges for the four coun- its consumers. However, “the question position on the EU agenda. state or state-owned company, accord- sands of Serbs, often highly educated, This defeatism, stemming from the Serbia. founder of The Nutshell Times blog. tries. is predominantly political and its solu- “The time is now. This is an opportu- ing to a 2012 study by CEVES, a Serbian leave each year to try their luck abroad. years of dashed expectations about a The internet has also allowed many In a blog post for The Balkans in Eu- tion most probably would be related nity for the Balkans, for the European economic policy think tank. Unfortunately, a very large proportion promised better future, is not confined Serbs to engage in the global gig-econo- The opinions expressed in the Com- rope Policy Advisory Group, Dr. Marko to signing a bilateral agreement in that Union, and for Bulgaria, which takes And last but not least, there is a now of people still think that the best career to politics. It has pervaded daily life. my and export their skills to wealthier ment section are those of the authors Kmezic, a Senior Researcher at the Uni- direction,” the company said. over the Presidency of the European general pessimism in the country, not move for a young bright person in Ser- It is not rare for those with enthusi- markets, while enjoying relatively low only and do not necessarily reflect the versity of Graz, Austria, argued that the “It has to be taken into account that Council in January,” she told the Balkan Bulevar Oslobođenja 221, Tel: 011 2462 343 www.restorankovac.com helped by the fact that tens of thou- bia is to get away. asm for projects, whether business or prices back home. views of BIRN. extension of the free-roaming policy to the lowering roaming prices is, above ambassadors. 8 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 03 - Thursday, November 16, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 03 - Thursday, November 16, 2017 9 REGION FACES Suriname The Artist Giving Triggers New Phase Turbo-Folk a New Look in Kosovo Recognition Battle

The apparent de- to be an inevitable decision to "let Ko- sovo go". cision of a Latin However, over the past five years, the situation has subtly, but noticeably, American state to changed. The pace of recognitions has slowed dramatically. Currently, around revoke its recog- 110 countries recognise Kosovo. At the same time, Serbia has begun nition of Kosovo to increase its counter-recognition efforts again. Most notably, in 2015 it shows the dip- fought a tough campaign to prevent lomatic struggle Kosovo from joining UNESCO. To the surprise of many observers, the vote over Serbia’s for- narrowly went against Pristina. Since then, there has been little for mer province is far Kosovo to cheer about. Last year, just two countries recognised Kosovo. from over. This year, just one country has done so. It is against this backdrop that the James KER-LINDSAY news has now emerged that a country has now gone so far as to change its t is hard to believe that it has been mind over Kosovo's statehood. almost a decade since Kosovo de- On 30 October, the foreign ministry clared independence from Serbia, of Suriname informed the Serbian gov- Ion 17 February 2008. At the time, ernment that it had revoked its recog- it was an extraordinarily controversial nition of Kosovo. move. Unsurprisingly, the news has been Ordinarily, the international com- greeted with jubilation in Belgrade. munity has a strong aversion to unilat- By contrast, Pristina is in denial. The eral acts of secession. immediate reaction from the foreign Since 1945, only one country, Bang- ministry was a statement arguing that ladesh, had managed to break away revocation is not possible. As it hap- Aleksandar Denic at the Belgrade Book Fair painting a picture on location. Photo: BIRN/Siri Sollie Serbian folk singer, Aca Lukas, portrayed by Denic in his book “Denic’s Years”. Photo: BIRN/Siri Sollie from an existing state and become a pens, legal opinion is divided on this full member of the UN. question. International opinion was divided Many scholars have indeed argued Belgrade painter 25, where he took the challenge to "Nobody was doing that at the time… ity, those methods are very favourable well as activities at Mikro Kulturni Cen- over Kosovo's statehood. Arguing that that it is not possible to revoke recogni- paint a picture on the spot. It often happened that these artists for working," says Denic. tar –MKC Kombinat in Zemun. it was a unique case, arising from the tion. In one sense, they are right. Aleksandar Denic "In a sense, I see art as a mission to were painted with irony, in the sense As Denic's popularity has in- Denic will be presenting his work at break-up of Yugoslavia, and believing A state cannot simply announce that make the world more beautiful. In my of 'bad culture', but I wanted to paint creased in the last couple of years, the Fijuk Sajam on Friday November it to be necessary for Balkan stability, it no longer recognises the sovereignty Kosovo’s disputed declaration of independence stands in the way of its citizens participating in Photo: Flickr/A Taste of Kosova on his love for case, I wanted, through painting, to them without irony, just what they are, he is now able to live, although hum- 3 at IMAGO CUK, which offers artists Kosovo was quickly recognised by the of a state over a territory. Instead, it international forums and institutions on a par with other European citizens. show the quality of pop-folk culture. To a singer, Aca [Lukas], [Zdravko] Colic." bly, on his art work. However, he still who are still working to create a name United States, Britain, France, Germany turbo-folk music bring forth the quality of 'narodnjake' During the last few years, the folk- remembers how he went through a for themselves and an opportunity to and many other Western states. must announce that it recognises the Whatever the exact reason for Suri- of its own members do not recognise it, [contemporary folk music] to be part music-inspired painter has been exhib- stagnant period after finishing design exhibit their works. By contrast, many other countries, One cannot sovereignty of an alternative state of name's decision, on balance it would there is nothing to stop individual mem- and why you don't of art… and for them to be recognised in iting at various galleries and festivals at school in 2006 and didn't then really While Denic is happy that festivals including Russia, India, China, Brazil, the territory in question. seem unlikely to change much in the bers from insisting that Serbia recognise the art world. That was my goal," Denic home and abroad. Belonging to what paint at all. and small exhibition venues offers a and South Africa, saw it as a dangerous ignore the In this regard, the letter from Suri- short term. Kosovo as the price for membership. need a lot of mon- explains. one might label an 'alternative' group Luckily, having some artist friends, way to earn money from his art, he precedent and refused to accept its in- name, which only spoke of revocation, While some observers may believe After years of stagnation, and seeing ey to make good Turbo-folk was at its prime in Serbia of artists, Denic instead characterises Denic was again inspired to paint and stresses they are not enough to suc- dependent status. fact that the was incorrectly drafted. However, as that events in Spain have undermined the way the winds are blowing, these during the 90s, thanks to artists such himself as a "non-aligned" painter, hav- in 2007 he slowly picked up his brush ceed as an artist. In the years that followed, the winds the letter was sent to Serbia, it would Kosovo's efforts to gain further recogni- countries [most notably Germany] art. as Ceca, Aca Lukas and Lepa Brena. It ing nothing against going mainstream. again. "You have to organise yourself… to seemed to be blowing firmly in Koso- move comes imply that the revocation was clearly tion, the reality is that all the easy wins may now redouble their efforts to firm- reached mainstream popularity in Ser- "I don't make a difference between "Before that I was just sitting home, find your space in those galleries and vo's favour. By the end of 2008, over 50 in Belgrade's favour. had already been secured. ly encourage Belgrade in this direction bia and the Balkans generally but has underground and mainstream. Maybe going to school. And then, around two to be part of an official art scene such as countries had recognised it. at pivotal Whatever the legal merits of the let- Gaining more was always going to be – albeit once the fallout from Catalonia also been associated with pornograph- people connect the underground with to three years ago, I met these people Studentski Grad and Dom Omladine… Meanwhile, Serbia's effort to secure ter, it seems that Suriname has taken tough. Equally, there is little reason to secession crisis has blown over. Siri SOLLIE ic kitsch and the glorification of crime. being narrow, and that has it own val- from Matrijarsija and then I started but your own initiative is also impor- an advisory opinion on the legality of moment. the decision to "revoke" its recognition believe that many states will reconsid- In its way, Suriname's decision may Serbian artists today, however, know ue, but there is no difference. It is not to work even more, going to festivals, tant, that you will make your own the Declaration of Independence from of Kosovo's statehood. However, it is er their decisions to recognise Kosovo. just have started a new phase of the urbo-folk has experi- how to repackage the often reviled like underground is so much better making exhibitions." works, make your own exhibitions, to the International Court of Justice pro- Catalonia’s also important to put the move in its Certainly, Kosovo's main international Kosovo recognition battle. enced something of a soundscape into something new. than mainstream." Matrijarsija is an art collective locat- alone produce something and sell if duced an inconclusive result. proper context. supporters will remain steadfast in the revival on the Serbian Vice Serbia recently released the Some of Denic's work was recently ed in the Zemun neighbourhood of Bel- you can." By 2012, almost 100 of the 193 mem- declaration of The decision of one country, though positions. James Ker-Lindsay is Professor of Poli- art scene during the last documentary Turbotronik, featuring published in the book Deniceva Go- grade. The group create their own car- "I mean, for people who want to do bers of the United Nations had recog- symbolically important, is not as sig- Looking ahead, however, Suriname's tics and Policy and St Mary's University, couple of years, a result several DJs, musicians and artists, in- dina (Denic's Years), a black and white toon strips, mainly using silk-printing everything, everything is easy," he says, nised Kosovo. independence nificant as the question of whether this decision may yet be significant. We Twickenham, and Senior Visiting Fellow Tof experimentation by multiple artists, cluding Denic, who all share one thing collection of pieces where he com- techniques. Denic has for the last cou- referring to the old maxim 'If there is a At that stage, Serbia appeared to will mark the start of a wider trend. may yet see this as the moment the at the London School of Economics and musicians and DJs across the Balkan in common: a fascination with turbo- bines both writing and painting, pre- ple of years been using the premises as will, there is a way'. have all but given up its efforts to per- has brought One cannot ignore the fact that the stalemate over recognition came to an Political Science. He is the author of 'Ko- region. folk and an ability to use pop folk mu- senting famous figures from politics his work space and often collaborates "Many things can be organised for suade countries not to accept the in- move comes at pivotal moment. Cata- end. sovo: The Path to Contested Statehood Amongst them is Aleksandar Denic, sic for their own artistic expression. and the music scene. with other artists living and working very little money, Zemun [Matrijarsija] dependence of its former province. the question lonia's declaration of independence has While some in Belgrade will want in the Balkans', (I.B. Tauris), and 'The a 34-year-old painter who lives and Denic told BIRN that he combined his Next to the somewhat cartoon-like there on various projects. is a concrete example." Meanwhile, under pressure from the brought the question of secession to the to capitalise on the decision and per- Foreign Policy of Counter Secession: works in Belgrade. Denic is known for love of portraiture and folk music, and portrayal of famous figures, one can "I realised we had the same interests, "You shouldn´t expect money from EU, it was now engaged in a process of of secession to forefront of international attention. suade other countries to follow suit, it Preventing the Recognition of Contested painting famous personalities, from started in 2010 to make pop icons por- also trace the influence of fresco and that we think the same in terms of mu- the government or some private inves- normalising its relations with Pristina. In this context, the question inevi- may also push Kosovo's key support- States', (Oxford University Press). musicians to politicians, and also for traying the artists he adores so much. icon painting in his images. sic, and that they were a crazy gang." tor. For instance, if you want to paint To many, it seemed as if this was pav- the forefront of tably arises as to whether Suriname's ers to renew their efforts to secure Ko- combining various genres from pop "For instance, like someone would "I am very interested in a technique Since then he has participated in go and buy a canvas, if you don´t have ing the way for Belgrade's eventual rec- decision is a response to growing fears sovo's place in the international com- The opinions expressed in the com- art, icon painting to cartoon-style im- make a picture of Jimi Hendrix or the that resembles fresco-making… I don´t events organised by Matrijarsija, in- money for a canvas, you can paint on a ognition of Kosovo's statehood. Serbia's international over secession. It may have been. Oth- munity by leaning on Serbia. ments section are those of the authors ages. Rolling Stones, I would in the same way know fresco techniques, but I am try- cluding Fijuk Sajam, a monthly art fair carton." politicians even appeared to be soften- ers have suggested that it may be due While the EU cannot force Serbia to only and do not necessarily reflect the We meet at Belgrade Insight's stand paint Mitar Miric [a Serbian pop-folk ing to work as similar as possible to [it]. at IMAGO CUK (the Centre for Urban "You shouldn't be whining, you just ing up public opinion for what seemed attention. to pro-Russian sentiment. recognise Kosovo, largely because five views of BIRN. at the Belgrade Book Fair on October singer] like a music idol," he says. Those broad strokes, [and] the simplic- Culture) in the centre of Belgrade, as need to work." 10 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 03 - Thursday, November 16, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 03 - Thursday, November 16, 2017 11 OUT AND ABOUT DINING OUT

GlutenNO is located in Jurija Gagarina street in New Belgrade. Photo: Gillian Dohrn Gluten-Free Bakery a Hit with Belgraders

GlutenNo Gillian DOHRN stitute a majority of the region’s staples. The menu features a variety of pizzas, Another customer, Jana Milenkovic, When Sinisa was diagnosed nine years available with or without lactose, sandwich- has only been coming to GlutenNo for two opened just he distinctive smell of ago, they struggled to find alternatives. es, sweet and savoury crepes and, as of Oc- weeks but brought her friend Teodora, fresh bread wafts through “His diet was oriented on meat, veg- tober 7, six varieties of pasta with a choice who was recently diagnosed with a glu- five months the open doors of a small etables, fruit and rice flakes,” said Ivana. of house made gnocchi or barilla spaghetti. ten allergy, to celebrate the pasta debut. storefront just off Jurija They began experimenting with alter- The barilla noodles are the only The only other gluten-free restau- ago, but the Gagarina Street in New native recipes. ingredient in any product that is not rant in Belgrade – tennis player Novak TBelgrade. The aroma could fool even Through trial and error, the Pros- made fresh. Everything is prepared Djokovic’s high end café Novak - sourc- family-owned a diehard traditionalist despite the ab- trans developed three unique recipes by Sinisa and his two sous chefs in the es some of their baked goods from the sence of a key ingredient—gluten. Hra- for bread which they sell by the loaf, in kitchen behind the front counter. Prostran kitchen at GlutenNo. business na Bez Glutena, or GlutenNo in English, addition to muffins, cookies and a tradi- The dining area is small but accord- The market is tight, but business is is Belgrade’s first gluten-free bakery. tional potato-based sweet treat. ing to Ivana, 40 per cent of their cus- good. If the trend continues, the Pros- is already Sinisa and Ivana Prostran founded Petar Stanojlovic, a regular customer tomers pick up food, they deliver food trans hope to open a more central loca- the family store in May 2017. Both Sinisa at GlutenNo, chooses to avoid gluten to another 40 per cent and only 20 per tion within the year. flourishing. and their son Matija suffer from coeliac and sugar for personal health benefits. cent of patrons dine in. disease, an autoimmune disorder that He commutes to New Belgrade for piz- Since GlutenNo opened, Igor Ko- Gillian Dohrn is a student of the SIT provokes the immune system to wreak za, sandwiches and the house-made kanovic has come regularly to pick up Study Abroad Program Serbia, Bosnia havoc upon the small intestine when lavender lemonade. lunch. “Pizza is the good, sandwich is and Kosovo: Peace and Conflict Studies Those who have not moved on from old-world romance can walk around Zagreb and admire its art-nouveau palaces and wonderful fin-de-siècle parks. Photo: Srdjan Garcevic the affected ingests gluten. “It’s better,” he said, when asked to the great,” he said on his way out, cra- in the Balkans. This story was written as Bread is served alongside most Ser- compare the gluten-free products with dling a bag containing a pizza, sand- an assignment for the project’s Journal- In Defence of Zagreb bian dishes and gluten derivatives con- their glutenous equivalents. wiches, and his first order of gnocchi. ism Track.

The Croatian rope, but also said that its highway to Its old core, spread over two charm- throughout Mitteleuropa, but Zagreb standout, while there are plenty of clubs Croatia’s famed Adriatic coast was the ing hills and overlooked by a fairy-tale mixes its Germanic grace with Medi- to spend the night in playing anything 14-17.12. best thing about the city. After laying bone-white cathedral, has many won- terranean (or dare I say Balkan?) liveli- from Balkan folk-pop (cajke) to commer- capital is a into the city’s nightlife and its many out- derful nooks, from the atmospheric ness. Every Saturday morning you can cial electronic dance music BELGRADE FAIR dated lounge-cafes, the author also dis- shrine in Kamenita Vrata to Mestrovic enjoy the sight of stylish Zagreb natives Then there is the city’s regionally fa- charming mix of missively compared its well-preserved Atelier, a gallery/studio previously oc- dressed to the nines going for a lei- mous cultural life, from the ambitious old core to German provincial cities. cupied by Ivan Mestrovic, the most surely stroll around Dolac, the bustling production of major plays and operas Mitteleuropa and Incidentally, the last insult is also of- famous Croatian sculptor of the 20th open-air farmers’ market, and people in the stately Croatian National Thea- southern soul. ten lobbed by Belgraders at Zagreb in Century. Then, of course, there are the watching from cafés around Cvetni trg. tre, to great independent films in the the long rivalry between the two cities, wonderfully romantic views over the Even on weekdays, cafes, bars and wonderfully refurbished Kino Europa. which spans almost a century and cov- city from the top of the Gric hill. drinking dens alike are brimming This cinema is not only the heart of the ers everything and anything from cul- Those who are not immune to old- with life. There is something for eve- Zagreb Film Festival, which takes place Srdjan GARCEVIC ture, fashion and sports to who got Mc- world romance can walk around Za- rybody, from elegant wine bar/restau- every November, it was also given a Donald’s first (for the record, Belgrade greb and admire its art-nouveau pal- rants (Triologija), hipster outlets (Na- prize for best programming in Europe espite being named as won that last one). aces, wonderful fin-de-siècle parks jgora kafa u gradu), stylish cake shops last year by Europa Cinemas, a conti- this year’s best destina- Despite my local patriotism to Bel- and last but not least, the ivy-covered (Fine torte) to craft beer halls(The nental network of cinemas dedicated tion in Europe by travel grade, I must say that calling Zagreb a arcades of Mirogoj, the city’s majestic Beertija). Most importantly, although to promoting European films. guide publisher Lonely boring provincial town is to be blind to cemetery. Zagreb’s picture-perfect side stylish and proud of their city, Zagreb The list of things to see and do in Planet, Zagreb was re- its many subtle charms and thrills. Like shines brightest during the city’s pre- natives are open-minded and warm Zagreb is, of course, much longer, how- Dcently the target of a scathing and, at its best stand-alone attraction, the di- Christmas, advent season when you to their guests. ever these are just the places that I, as points, hilarious review in the German minutive but heart-breaking Museum can stroll around with a mulled wine in The nightlife, while admittedly not as a proud Belgrader, can admit to loving weekly news magazine Der Spiegel. of Broken Relationships, Zagreb is all hand, stopping for snacks at the many lively compared to Belgrade, has its mo- in Zagreb, where I am always happy to The review not only claimed that about wonderful details, hidden in a stalls dotted around the city centre. ments. Parties at Lauba – an art gallery/ stop by for a few days, and not just on Zagreb is the most boring capital in Eu- wonderfully romantic setting. Much of this, of course, can be found club in a disused factory – are usually my way to the coast. 12 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 03 - Thursday, November 16, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 03 - Thursday, November 16, 2017 13 WHAT'S ON ARTS

Seb Janiak OPERA, BALLET CLUBBING at Belgrade Port AND CLASSICAL The French artist Seb Janiak, a pioneer of digital NOVEMBER FRIDAY 3 photography, will show- Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra,

AND LIVE MUSIC case his works in a quite Fabrice Bollon (conductor), Visnja Arts in brief unusual place; the Bel- Popov (mezzosoprano), Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Studenstki trg 5, 8pm grade Port. The exhibition th NOVEMBER FRIDAY 3 NOVEMBER SATURDAY 4 • Bom Som, DOT, Francuska 6, 14 International Festival is open from November 3 “Harpsichord, Living Art”, Cultural 11pm to 6 and features 22 pho- Centre of Belgrade, Trg Republike 5, 8pm • Skrtice, Dom Omladine, • Jorgovani & N.P.Z, Bozidarac, • Chavo Loco meets Mr. Merick, th tos from his Mimesis and 5 Chopin Fest “Autumn Echoes”, Makedonska 22, 9pm Radoslava Grujica 3, 9pm Ljubimac, Cetinjska 15, 7pm KOLARAC Belgrade City Assembly, Dragoslava • Krug EKV i Vrane Kamene, • Belgrade Metal United Vol. 2, • RNB Thursday's Delight, Naomi series. Admission is Jovanovica 2, 8pm Bozidarac, Radoslava Grujica 3, Dom Omladine, Makedonska 22, Brankow, Crnogorska 12, 11pm PROGRAMME free of charge. Classical music festival „BUNT 5.0“, 9pm 9pm AKUD Lola, Resavska 1, 8pm • Amy's House, Elektropionir, • Elsiane (CAN), Elektropionir, NOVEMBER FRIDAY 10 Harpsichord Cetinjska 15, 9pm SATURDAY NOVEMBER 4 Cetinjska 15, 9pm and Sarabande • Don Giovanni Blues Group, • Di Luna Blues Band, Soul Society, • Du You Remember – Husker Soul Society, Skver Mire Trailovic, Concert and Exhibition: “The World Skver Mire Trailovic, 10pm Du, Bozidarac, Radoslava Grujica FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 3 WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 8 of Sound”, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, 10pm As part of the 14th In- • Daniel Erdmann’s Velvet 3, 9pm Studenstki trg 5, 11am • Fish In Oil, Akademija 28, Revolution, Grad Cultural Centre, • Pazi Kuce Showcase: Vasko Concert Hall, 8pm Music Gallery, 6pm ternational Harpsichord Bogdan Djordjevic, piano, Ilija M. Kolarac Nemanjina 28, 10pm Brace Krsmanovica 4, 8pm Atanasoski, Homo Simpson, Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra Professors/Students Festival, harpsichordist Endowment, Studenstki trg 5, 6pm • Delca Night, Dzezva bar, Cara • Jovan Maljokovic Balkan Elektropionir, Cetinjska 15, 9pm Conductor: Fabrice Bollon Pianists: Vladimir Cvijic, Stanko and opera director Sofija Urosa 19, 8pm SUNDAY NOVEMBER 5 Salsa Band, Ciglana Klub • Lira Vega i Sana Garic, Soloist: Visnja Popov, mezzoso- Simic, Katarina Ruvidic, professor Perovic and students • Mooncage / Badhead, Club Fest, prano Ljubitelja Teske Industrije, Grad Cultural Centre, Brace Vladimir Tosic Gradski Park 2, 10pm Programme: A. Lyadov, E. Elgar, V. Mokranjac, V. from the Institute for Art Classical music festival „BUNT 5.0“, Ilija M. Slanacki put 26, 10pm Krsmanovica 4, 10pm Programme: • Jazzy Friday, Polet, Cetinjska 15, M. Logar, S. Rachmaninov Tosic Dance will present the Kolarac Endowment, Studenstki trg 5, 11am • Oriental Trio, Dzezva Bar, Cara • Najda - Smak Tribute, Club 80 Anniversary of Music school "Josip 8pm Production: Belgrade Philhar- Production: Music Centre sarabande – a dance in Urosa 19, 9pm Fest, Gradski Park 2, 10pm Slavenski", Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, • Switchdance, Grad Cultural monic Orchestra Admission free triple metre - accom- Centre, Brace Krsmanovica 4, • Loco Band, Club Fest, Gradski • V!bes/Spacewalker, Zaokret, Studenstki trg 5, 8pm Park 2, 10pm Cetinjska 15, 7pm panied by the sounds 11pm SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 4 THURSDAY, NOVEMBER 9 NOVEMBER WEDNESDAY 8 • Luigi Madonna, Hangar, • MR.TC (Optimo Music) & • Veliki Mlr, Ljubimac, Cetinjska of the harpsichord. The Schwabe (Disco Not Disco/ Dunavska 86, 10pm 15, 8pm Kolarac Hall, 11pm Concert Hall, 8pm concert, entitled A Long Professors-Students Concert, Ilija M. • Charles Fenckler, 20/44, Usce Tapan), 20/44, Usce bb, 11pm • Hype, opening weekend, The World of Sound - Leading Evening of Sevdah/ traditional Journey to Sarabande, Kolarac Endowment, Studenstki trg 5, 6pm bb, 11pm • Vinilijada no.8, Grad Cultural Karadjordjeva 46, 10pm Exhibition & Concert songs from Bosnia-Herzegovina will take place at the Bitef Centre, Brace Krsmanovica 4, Novi Sad Wind Quintet • HARIBO, Club Secer, Svetogorska • VATRA, Drugstore, Bulevar Merima Njegomir, Enes Begovic, Theatre on November 6 NOVEMBER THURSDAY 9 17, 11pm 10pm Despota Stefana 115, 11pm Production: Music Centre & Erste Alma Subasic, Esan Kovacevic, at 7pm. Entrance is free • Kristijan Molnar, DOT, • Cherry on Top, DOT, Francuska Bank Svjetlana Vidovic, Zanin Berbic, Sevdah Night, Ilija M. Kolarac Endowment, Studenstki trg 5, 8pm Francuska 6, 11pm 6, 11pm NOVEMBER SATURDAY 11 Admission free Selma Hadzic of charge. • LaCosta, Tranzit bar, Brace • Killerwatts, Hala Sportova, Dinka Mujanovic Orchestra SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 4 NOVEMBER FRIDAY 10 Krsmanovica 8, 10pm Pariske komune 20, 10pm • Samostalni Referenti, Bozidarac, Ticket fees: 1.200, 1.500 dinars Macbeth • Do the Math, Kaldrma Bar, • V!bes/Subotic, Zaokret, Radoslava Grujica 3, 9pm Music Gallery, 6pm Contemporary The Ottoman Empire’s cultural and political influence was heavily Photo: Courtesy of the Historical Museum of Serbia Belgrade Philharmonic Orchestra, Skadarska 40, 8pm Cetinjska 15, 7pm FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 10 • Zvonko Bogdan, Sava Centre, Bogdan Djordjevic, piano Dance Play present in all territories under its rule. Fabrice Bollon (conductor), Alexander • Little Lu, Zaokret, Cetinjska 15, • Pacific Boilers, Ljubimac. Milentija Popovica 9, 8.30pm Krichel (piano), Ilija M. Kolarac Programme: F. Chopin, S. Rach- Concert Hall, 8pm 7pm Cetinjska 15, 8pm • Beth Hart, Hala Sportova, Endowment, Studenstki trg 5,8pm maninoff, F. Liszt The Fifth/ Belgrade Philharmonic The Belgrade premiere of • Dario Mexa, Ljubimac, Cetinjska • Panic Room vol.2, KPTM, Zorza Pariske komune 20, 9pm Opera: Don Pasquale (Donizetti), National 15, 8pm Admission free Orchestra Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, 7.30pm Klemensoa 22, 11pm • Veliki Prezir, Elektropionir, the contemporary dance • DJ Cupava, Club Petak, Lomina Conductor: Fabrice Bollon Red Army Ensemble ALEKSANDROV, • Party at Four, KPTM, Zorza Cetinjska 15, 9pm SATURDAY, NOVEMBER 4 play Macbeth, inspired by 14, 9pm Soloist: Alexander Krichel, piano New Exhibition Sava Centre, Milentija Popovica 9, 8pm Klemensoa 22, 4am • POPactually Soirée: Bojana the Shakespeare classic, • Bege Fank party, KPTM, Zorza Programme: R. Schumann, C. • Dasha Rush, Drugstore, Bulevar Concert Hall, 8pm Klemensoa 22, 11pm Vunturisirevic, Cultural Centre Schumann, Ј. Brahms is part of the Bitef Dance NOVEMBER SUNDAY 12 Despota Stefana 115, 11pm RTS Symphony Orchestra • 33.10.3402, Drugstore, Bulevar Grad, Brace Krsmanovica 4, 9pm Production: Belgrade Philhar- Company’s effort to bring • Girl, Boys and Toys, Bitef Art Conductor: Bojan Sudjic Explores Balkans’ Kolarac Podium of Chamber Music, Ilija M. Despota Stefana 115, 11pm • Wild Mohicans USA, Potop RS monic Orchestra classics to the modern Café, Mitropolita Petra 8, 10pm Soloists: Marija Mitic, soprano, Kolarac Endowment, Studenstki trg 5, 11am • St Louis, Bitef Art Café, & Kpax!, Petak Club, Lomina 14, audience through new • DJ Balzak, 0.5, Dobracina 30a, 7pm Lidija Jovanovic, alt, SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 12 Mitropolita Petra 8, 10pm Dejan Maksimilijan Vrbancic, interpretations and to NOVEMBER WEDNESDAY 15 10pm • Pero Defformero, Club Fest, Post-Ottoman • DJ Ratkerolla/Halloween • Cojke, Ludost, Karadjordjeva 44, tenor, Nikola Diskic, baritone Concert Hall, 11am showcase, at the same Maskenbal, 0.5, Dobracina 30a, Gradski Park 2, 10pm Mozart Biljana Valcic (soprano), Ilija M. Kolarac 11pm Programme: Cycle: Kolarac Podium of Cham- time, some new trends in 10pm • Lil Taty, Ljubimac, Cetinjska 15, Production: RTS Music Produc- Endowment, Studenstki trg 5, 6pm • DJ Malina, Gvozdjara 1870, ber Music , Ilija M. Kolarac • Dooshan & Malina, Ludost, 8pm tion contemporary dance. The Heritage Gipsy Rhapsody Band Karadjordjeva 44, 11pm Karadjordjeva 43, 10pm • Hype, opening weekend, Soloists: Una Stanic, violin, Irena play premieres on Novem- Endowment, Studenstki trg 5, 9pm Ticket fees: 400, 500, 600 dinars Josifoska, cello, Uki Ovaskainen, • DJ Slipi, Gvozdjara 1870, Karadjordjeva 46, 10pm Ballet: Don Quixote (Minkus), National piano ber 4 at the Bitef Theatre. Theatre in Belgrade, Francuska 3, 7.30pm Karadjordjeva 43, 10pm NOVEMBER SUNDAY 5 • Apgrade with Recondite & SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 5 Production: Music Centre Tickets cost five euros. photographs submitted by Turkish and As a travelling exhibition, Cities in DJ Tennis, Drugstore, Bulevar Admission free This travelling Yugoslav reporters from the 1920s and Motion has one important purpose. It • Sopot, Elektropionir, Cetinjska Despota Stefana 115, 11pm Concert Hall EXHIBITIONS 15, 9pm Cycle: Kolarac Podium of Cham- Egon Schiele: 1930s who worked for major regional aims to deconstruct the bias and prej- AND EVENTS • Psydeffects meets Sangoma, TUESDAY, NOVEMBER 14 show explores • Gypsy Jazz, Polet, Cetinjska 15, Plastic, Takovska and ber Music Death and the newspapers such as Cumhuriyet, Ak- udice against large immigrant groups 11.00 sam, Politika and Vreme. from the post-Ottoman territories in NOVEMBER FRIDAY 3 8pm Dalmatinska corner, 11pm Concert Hall, 8pm Maiden how Ankara, Istan- BUNT Festival/ Youth Day These reporters roamed their home- today’s increasingly xenophobic cli- • Official Killerwatts After Party, Kolarac /Your Music World Soloists: Nemalja Belej, violin, Exhibition: Paja Jovanovic, Dom Imago CUK, Decanska 14, 5.30am NOVEMBER SUNDAY 12 Capella Cracoviensis (Poland) The new movie about towns – Ankara, Istanbul, Belgrade and mate. Ivan Basic, piano bul, Belgrade and Jevrema Grujica, Svetogorska 17, 11am • Vikowski, Zaokret, Cetinjska 15, (vocal ensemble) Sarajevo - on a mission to document Another important goal is to pay due th Programme: Saint-Saens, Mozart, one of the most famous 13 Film Festival Free Zone Belgrade, 8pm , Ljubimac, Jan Tomasz Adamus, conductor, how the central urban areas changed to homage to the common heritage and • Buki Prebuki Brahms Viennese artists of the Sarajevo changed various venues • Speed Date Table Party, 0.5, organ / harpsichord Exhibition: Serbian Art Inheritance in Cetinjska 15, 7pm 12.30 20th Century, Egon Schiele, reflect new times, new politics and new the common historical paths, which Dobracina 30a, 9pm Programme: F. Mendelssohn, C. Kosovo and Metohija, Serbian Academy Kids Philharmonic after the collapse cultural trends. persisted despite the inherent differ- • Sunday Beat (techno/tech Monteverdi, K. Szymanowski, A. was inspired by one of his of Sciences and Arts, Knez Mihailova 35, NOVEMBER MONDAY 13 Conductor: Ljubisa Jovanovic The Ottoman Empire had its admin- ences between the people who may house), Mr. Stefan Braun, Párt, M. Zieleński most famous works, Death of the Ottoman 12pm Programme: Beethoven, Bach, istrative and political centre in Turkey have experienced them a little differ- Exhibition: „Mimesis & Naomi“ Seb Nemanjina 4, 12am • Hot Chocolate (RnB/Hip-Hop), Strauss, Offenbach Production: Music Centre and the Maiden. It offers a Ticket fees: 1.200 dinars but its cultural and political influence ently. The exhibition is also set out as a Janiak, Luka Beograd, Dunavska 86, 12pm FREE COPY Mr. Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, Production: Music Centre closer look at the artist's Empire. was very much present and quite puzzle of sorts. It asks the audience to Exhibition: „64-34“ Ljiljana Stevanovic, NOVEMBER MONDAY 6 12am Admission free life, especially his relation- Gallery Petak, Lomina 14, 3pm WEDNESDAY, NOVEMBER 15 strong in all territories under its rule. guess in which of the four cities a par- • Ivan Radenov, Wurst Platz Bar, ships with women. KC Finnish Film Days, Yugoslav Film Publisher: BIRN d.o.o. • Hot Chocolate (RnB/Hip-Hop), SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 5 David GALIC Major cities of the Balkans, parts of ticular photo was taken. Makedonska 4, 8pm Grad will host an exclusive Archive, Uzun Mirkova 1, 8pm Kolarceva 7/5, 11 000 Belgrade Mr. Stefan Braun, Nemanjina 4, Concert Hall, 6pm the territory that would later become This exercise clearly underlines the Exhibition: „Arslocation“, Art Gallery Stara Encounter with an Artist Phone/Fax: +381 11 4030 300 12am Concert Hall, 8pm Cycle: screening of this 2016 ities are living, fluid or- Yugoslavia, carried strong traits of this fact that the cultures of these four cit- Kapetanija, Kej Oslobodjenja 8, 5pm NOVEMBER TUESDAY 14 Soloists: Biljana Valcic, soprano Editor in Chief: Gordana Igric • Ivan Radenov, Wurst Platz Bar, Pupils`s Concert Austrian movie on Novem- ganisms that never cease dominance. ies are much more similar than people 80 Anniversary of the Music Ljiljana Bozic, piano NOVEMBER SATURDAY 4 BIRN editorial team: Makedonska 4, 8pm • Chk Chk Chk, Dom Omladine, ber 15 at 8pm. Admission to transform, and trans- This was, and to an extent still is, evi- realise or want to admit. The audience School Josip Slavenski Production: Music Centre Makedonska 22, 9pm is free. formation is governed dent in the urban planning and architec- will also have a chance to have their th Gordana Andric, Marcus Tanner, Admission free Admission free 13 Film Festival Free Zone Belgrade, belgradeinsighteditor@birn. NOVEMBER TUESDAY 7 • Midas Fall /UK/ & raised by as much by the practical ture, but also in the everyday lives of the photos taken in front of large photos various venues swans /CAN, Elektropionir, Cneeds of its residents as by geopolitical people living in those cities. When the of urban landscapes and to try out au- Exhibition: Naod Zoric, Art Pavilion eu.com Japanese-Serbian • Mark Lanegan Band, Dom Cvijeta Zuzoric, Tadeusa Koscuska 14, 5pm Sales & Marketing: Marija Cetinjska 15, 8pm Film Festival and historical circumstances. Ottoman Empire fell, things started to thentic costumes from the 1920s and Omladine, Makedonska 22, • Dizel Night, Mr. Stefan Braun, Historically, the Balkans went change, slowly but steadily and thankful- 1930s. Petrovic 8.30pm NOVEMBER SUNDAY 5 Nemanjina 4, 12am th through a series of transformations ly, these and many other reporters were The curator of Cities in Motion – Post- Phone: +381 11 4030 302 • URBAN Salsa Party, Imago The 4 Japanese-Serbian that changed the region culturally, po- there to document the changes. On one Ottoman Heritage is Natasa Mijuskovic, [email protected] CUK, Decanska 14, 10pm Film Festival, which Cinemafest, various venues NOVEMBER WEDNESDAY 15 litically and sociologically. hand, the new governments that took who teaches Near and Middle Eastern 13th Film Festival Free Zone Belgrade, Subscription & Distribution: • Dizel Night, Mr. Stefan Braun, traditionally takes place in A large portion of the Balkans was over from the old Ottoman apparatus Studies at the University of Basel. The various venues Goran Knezevic Nemanjina 4, 12am • Girls are gonna get wild! both Belgrade and Tokyo, TRA T T O R I A ruled for centuries by the Ottoman Em- had one goal in mind: to make the cities exhibition is the result of international (house), Mr. Stefan Braun, showcases shorter works NOVEMBER MONDAY 6 +381 63 562 265 pire and this left a strong mark on the reflect a new man, a new, modern citizen. cooperation as part of the scientific [email protected] NOVEMBER WEDNESDAY 8 Nemanjina 4, 12am PIZZER I A filmed in Serbia and Japan urban geography of its cities. A brand They modernised the urban core research project SIBA - A Visual Ap- Exhibition: „Kingdom of Denmark Printing: POLITIKA stamparija on a particular topic, • Girls are gonna get wild! NOVEMBER THURSDAY 16 new exhibition opening soon at the and introduced innovations on all lev- proach to Everyday Life in Turkish and - From Copenhagen to the Arctic”, d.o.o. (house), Mr. Stefan Braun, which is set each year by Historical Museum of Serbia explores els of everyday life. On the other hand, Yugoslav Cities in 1920s and 1930s, fi- Kalemegdan Fortress ISSN 1820-8339 = Belgrade the CultCrave Association. Cinemafest, various venues Nemanjina 4, 12am • Jovanovic and Band + Nikola Nebojsina 8 the ways in which four cities in Turkey many aspects of everyday life in these nanced by the Swiss National Science Insight This year, the films will Exhibition: „Pulse“ , Sonja Zugic, Gallery Neskovic, Elektropionir, 011/3863-999 and the former Yugoslavia changed in cities went on undisturbed, following Foundation. Beograd, Kosancicev venac 1, 7pm NOVEMBER THURSDAY 9 focus on the subject of COBISS.SR-ID: 149132556 Cetinjska 15, 9pm [email protected] the early 1900s and how this change the same cultural and sociological pat- The exhibition at the Historical Mu- Circulation: 2,000 • ABBA Real Tribute, Club Fest, www.restoranamici.rs transcending taboos and was tracked and documented by early terns that could be seen while under seum of Serbia will run from November NOVEMBER TUESDAY 7 • WoO + Marko Paunovic, Gradski Park 2, 10pm will be screened at the photojournalists and reporters. Turkish rule. This contrast is evident in 7 to January 28, after which it will move Grad Cultural Centre, Brace Exhibition: „Trains airplanes waves • RNB Thursday's Delight, Yugoslav Film Archive on Cities in Motion – Post-Ottoman Her- many of the photographs that will be to Istanbul, Sarajevo, Graz and finally Krsmanovica 4, 10pm Brankow, Crnogorska 12, 11pm hands”, Magacin u Kraljevica Marka, November 14 and 15. itage brings 200 digitally-processed displayed as part of the exhibition. Cambridge. Kraljevica Marka 4-8, 7pm 14 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 03 - Thursday, November 16, 2017 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 03 - Thursday, November 16, 2017 15 GOING OUT THEN AND NOW Shsh Bar

This hip ‘mini-bar’ in the heart of Dorcol makes up for what it lacks in size with positive vibes.

David GALIC

hsh Bar is located in the heart of Dorcol, in Kneginje Ljubice street, which is only about a three-minute walk downhill from Republic SSquare. When you walk into the bar for the first time, the first impression is that it is small – really small. It's only about 30 square metres in size, making it an intimate experience even if there aren't more than 10 people there. The bar gets its name from Spiro Seat, who was the first owner of the build- The baths constructed for Prince Milos on Admirala Gerpata street are now a restaurant. Photo: Monument.rs The historic Dunav public baths at Dusanova 45 today. Photo: Srdjan Garcevic ing in which the bar is housed, which was built in 1934. He was also the great- Shsh Bar is a great, low-key, intimate place to grab drinks with friends no matter the day of the week or where you're going afterwards. Photo: Courtesy of Shsh Bar grandfather of the current owner of Shsh Bar. go there, another interesting element of sets the tone for the type of people Shsh also offers snacks like sand- lar place for young clubbers to have There are about eight tables in total Shsh is without a doubt the interior. who visit it. Patrons tend to be under wiches and salads, but the food is some drinks before they head out to in Shsh, with only three stools at the While it's very subtly decorated, the 30 years old and the crowd is also ob- definitely not the main attraction. the bigger clubs for the rest of the night. bar itself. There's a bathroom behind painting, pictures and other pieces viously a bit artsy and hip, especially However, if you'd need a bite to eat and But even if you don't fit that profile, Ottoman Past and Future of the bar and that's pretty much it if you featured on the walls and around the compared to other bars in the neigh- don't feel like leaving the bar, you can Shsh Bar is still a great, low-key, intimate visit during wintertime. In the summer, bar are always changing. Shsh turns its bourhood. get something there to satisfy your ap- place to grab drinks with friends no there is some seating in front of the walls into a casual gallery that many Drinks are pretty cheap for Dorcol, petite. matter the day of the week or whether bar as well. The small garden in front young, unestablished Serbian art- you can get a Paulaner weissbier on The music at Shsh is almost always you're going to go home afterwards City’s Largest Public Baths is very nice, with some type of camou- ists can use to showcase their talents. tap for about two euros and something electronic. During the week, you'll prob- or head over to a club to continue the flage nets hanging up around it to keep Because of this, the interior design of from local craft brewers Kabinet for ably hear electronic music that is more party. out the sun and the heat. the bar tends to morph from month about three. Shsh also boasts an excel- chilled out and atmospheric. However, So what makes ShSh an appealing to month, even week to week, so you lent selection of rakijas at a very re- DJs often come to spin at the bar on the place to go out? According to the owners, never really know what type of colours spectable price. When it comes to non- weekend, during which time the music SHSH BAR After years of Srdjan GARCEVIC er the wealthy Krsmanovic brothers de- lic baths in Belgrade had been shut or After emergency repair works in 2007 “the bar connects the atmosphere of elec- and designs you are going to see when alcoholic beverages, they have really is certainly louder and more aggressive. Address: Kneginje Ljubice 9 cided to open modern baths at the same re-purposed. The hammam in Kalemeg- to stop the roof from collapsing, the baths tronic music and the energy of European you walk in. tasty iced tea and lemonade options as The fact that Shsh is a cool and casual Contact: +381 11 3287641 neglect, the espite Serbia’s long period un- spot. This was a smart business move, as dan became the Belgrade planetarium, were used as an exhibition space for sev- metropolises.” While the music is cer- The fact that Shsh acts as a small well as Club Mate, the hipster favourite place in the centre of the city that plays der Ottoman rule, Belgrade back then most Belgraders lacked mod- the baths constructed for Prince Milos in eral editions of October Salon, Belgrade’s tainly a big attraction for the people who gallery for up-and-coming artists also directly imported from Berlin. electronic music makes it a very popu- www.facebook.com/shssssssh old Dunav currently does not have a sin- ern sanitation in their homes. Admirala Gerpata became a restaurant, most reputable contemporary art exhibi- Dgle open public bath, let alone In its heyday, the Dunav baths were while others, such as the one in Misarska tors. Otherwise, it remained shut. public baths the opulent marble-clad pleasure pal- used by the poor and wealthy alike for street, were left unused. Despite plans to turn the Dunav baths Former Bad Seed Hugo Amy Winehouse Tribute aces that can still be enjoyed in Budapest hygiene and socialising. Patrons could When the Dunav baths closed due to into an art space, there were no concrete in Dusanova or Istanbul. take showers, lounge around in its financial difficulties, they were used by plans or works done. As part of Turkey’s Race at KC Grad Band Set to Perform The last to close was the historic Du- steam baths and get massages. In the homeless Belgraders only for the show- charm offensive during the state visit of may be getting nav public baths at Dusanova 45, which 1920s, a large swimming pool was add- ers. Most of the building was in a very President Recep Tayyip Erdogan in Octo- n original member of Nick Cave & The Bad Seeds, who my Winehouse will always have a strong connection a new lease of closed its doors in 2004. The history of ed and the baths were renovated again bad state and out of bounds to visitors, ber 2017, there was an agreement between played guitar on the band's first album From Her to with Belgrade, considering the fact that Belgrade was bathing at this spot probably dates all in the 1930s. with little remaining of its former glitz. the Serbian and Turkish governments to re- Eternity, Hugo Race hasn't stopped creating music the last place that the late, great soul singer played life. the way back to the 18th Century, when The Dunav baths remained popular The swimming pools were used as stor- store the baths. Although it is still unknown over the last 30 years. He has collaborated with before her untimely death. Anyone who is familiar it housed an Ottoman hammam (steam even after World War II. However, as liv- age for a nearby automobile repair shop, when they will be reopened and what their many great musicians from the underground with Winehouse knows that trying to replicate her bath). The complex was demolished in ing conditions in Belgrade improved, it while the dilapidated domed Turkish purpose will be, this agreement will hope- Agarage and international punk rock scene over the years and Asound is no easy task. But Belgrade-based band Amy's House the wave of modernisation that overtook drew in fewer and fewer visitors. By the bath section served as a set for the 2002 fully not only return them to their former has probably released close to 100 albums over the last three are certainly up for the challenge. Belgrade in the late 19th Century, howev- end of the last century, every other pub- Serbian horror film TT sindrom. glory, but also to their Ottoman roots. decades. Behind the microphone is Nevena Filipovic, who is a voice Race will be in Belgrade on Monday, November 13, playing at coach and has sang just about every style over the course of her KC Grad in the upper gallery. He will be promoting his new solo career, from rock and pop to fado and afro-beat. The musicians album, recorded with Michelangelo Russo – who will be on tour behind her are all just as experienced and talented but, most im- with him as well – which is his interpretation of what he believes a portantly, confident that they can nail the inimitable neo-soul vibe Johnny Lee Hooker blues album would sound like if recorded today. of the late Winehouse. To see for yourselves whether they make Tickets cost eight euros at the door. the grade, head over to Elektropionir on Friday, November 3. Tick- ets cost three euros at the door. Published by

A LEADING PROVIDER OF SUBSCRIBE TO NEWS AND ANALYSIS OUR PREMIUM CONTENT IN SOUTHEAST EUROPE US Disco Punks !!! Recondite and DJ Dasha Rush Metal Superstars Lacuna Tribute Band Honours for in-depth analysis, at Dom Omladine Tennis at Drugstore Back at Drugstore Coil in Dom Omladine Late EKV Frontman investigative reports, features, interviews, For the first time ever, American disco Popular club music promoters Apgrade Moscow-born techno diva Dasha One of the most popular female-fronted Ekatarina Velika (EKV) was one of the commentary and profiles punk rockers !!! (it's actually pronounced are bringing two DJs currently at their Rush blew the roof off Drugstore back metal bands of the last decade, Lacuna biggest and most influential alternative on the latest business and chk chk chk) are going to be playing in creative and popular peaks to Belgrade. in 2014 and 2015, so it's no surprise Coil, are finally coming to Belgrade. rock bands in the history of Serbian political headlines. Belgrade on Tuesday, November 14 at Recondite from Germany and Italy's DJ that she has been invited to bring her They will be joined by two up-and-com- rock music and their late leader, Milan Dom Omladine. One of the most exciting Tennis will be performing on Saturday, high-energy brand of booming techno ing bands Cellar Darling and Sinheresy. Mladenovic, has left a huge impres- bands on the planet, !!! are best known November 11 at Drugstore. Recondite to the Serbian capital again. She will Coming from Milan, Italy, Lacuna Coil sion on the entire scene. On Saturday, for taking musical risks, defying genre played Belgrade last year and won over be back at Drugstore for the third time have been putting their own original November 4, fans are going to gather OTHER SERVICES: distinctions and always putting out the crowd easily, so expect it to be a full on Saturday, November 4. Dasha will spin on goth metal music for exactly 20 at Dom Omladine for the fifth year in original music. Tickets for the concert, house at the Belgrade techno cathedral be joined again by Filip Xavi, who has years now. They will be playing Dom a row to pay tribute to the late singer, which is sure to be a high-energy event, aka Drugstore. Tickets cost eight euros played with her for every Belgrade Omladine on Monday, November 13. with music by EKV tribute band Deca cost €22 euros at the door. at the door for the event. performance. Tickets cost six euros. Tickets cost €28 at the door. iz Vode. Tickets cost five euros. 16 BELGRADE INSIGHT, Friday, November 03 - Thursday, November 16, 2017 ADVERT Map of City Centre

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TEL AVIV HUMMUS HOUSE - ISRAELI The Best National & International Cuisine in CUISINE RESTAURANT the Heart of Belgrade Working hours: 00-24 Skadarska 34 Food delivery: 09-21 11000 Belgrade Carice Milice 3, 069/2632 224 Serbia Kicevska 21, 064/58 63 821 Tel. +381 63 1872222 FB:facebook.com/Tel Aviv Hummus House Email. [email protected] telavivhummushouse.com www.malivrabac.rs