Sustainable Community Design Project Proposal
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												Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907)
Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907) BuYun Chen Submitted in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the degree of Doctor of Philosophy in the Graduate School of Arts and Sciences COLUMBIA UNIVERSITY 2013 © 2013 BuYun Chen All rights reserved ABSTRACT Dressing for the Times: Fashion in Tang Dynasty China (618-907) BuYun Chen During the Tang dynasty, an increased capacity for change created a new value system predicated on the accumulation of wealth and the obsolescence of things that is best understood as fashion. Increased wealth among Tang elites was paralleled by a greater investment in clothes, which imbued clothes with new meaning. Intellectuals, who viewed heightened commercial activity and social mobility as symptomatic of an unstable society, found such profound changes in the vestimentary landscape unsettling. For them, a range of troubling developments, including crisis in the central government, deep suspicion of the newly empowered military and professional class, and anxiety about waste and obsolescence were all subsumed under the trope of fashionable dressing. The clamor of these intellectuals about the widespread desire to be “current” reveals the significant space fashion inhabited in the empire – a space that was repeatedly gendered female. This dissertation considers fashion as a system of social practices that is governed by material relations – a system that is also embroiled in the politics of the gendered self and the body. I demonstrate that this notion of fashion is the best way to understand the process through which competition for status and self-identification among elites gradually broke away from the imperial court and its system of official ranks. - 
												
												A New Method for the Conservation of Ancient Colored Paintings on Ramie
Liu et al. Herit Sci (2021) 9:13 https://doi.org/10.1186/s40494-021-00486-4 RESEARCH ARTICLE Open Access A new method for the conservation of ancient colored paintings on ramie textiles Jiaojiao Liu*, Yuhu Li*, Daodao Hu, Huiping Xing, Xiaolian Chao, Jing Cao and Zhihui Jia Abstract Textiles are valuable cultural heritage items that are susceptible to several degradation processes due to their sensi- tive nature, such as the case of ancient ma colored-paintings. Therefore, it is important to take measures to protect the precious ma artifacts. Generally, ″ma″ includes ramie, hemp, fax, oil fax, kenaf, jute, and so on. In this paper, an examination and analysis of a painted ma textile were the frst step in proposing an appropriate conservation treat- ment. Standard fber and light microscopy were used to identify the fber type of the painted ma textile. Moreover, custom-made reinforcement materials and technology were introduced with the principles of compatibility, durabil- ity and reversibility. The properties of tensile strength, aging resistance and color alteration of the new material to be added were studied before and after dry heat aging, wet heat aging and UV light aging. After systematic examina- tion and evaluation of the painted ma textile and reinforcement materials, the optimal conservation treatment was established, and exhibition method was established. Our work presents a new method for the conservation of ancient Chinese painted ramie textiles that would promote the protection of these valuable artifacts. Keywords: Painted textiles, Ramie fber, Conservation methods, Reinforcement, Cultural relic Introduction Among them, painted ma textiles are characterized by Textiles in all forms are an essential part of human civi- the fexibility, draping quality, heterogeneity, and mul- lization [1]. - 
												
												Historic Costuming Presented by Jill Harrison
Historic Southern Indiana Interpretation Workshop, March 2-4, 1998 Historic Costuming Presented By Jill Harrison IMPRESSIONS Each of us makes an impression before ever saying a word. We size up visitors all the time, anticipating behavior from their age, clothing, and demeanor. What do they think of interpreters, disguised as we are in the threads of another time? While stressing the importance of historically accurate costuming (outfits) and accoutrements for first- person interpreters, there are many reasons compromises are made - perhaps a tight budget or lack of skilled construction personnel. Items such as shoes and eyeglasses are usually a sticking point when assembling a truly accurate outfit. It has been suggested that when visitors spot inaccurate details, interpreter credibility is downgraded and visitors launch into a frame of mind to find other inaccuracies. This may be true of visitors who are historical reenactors, buffs, or other interpreters. Most visitors, though, lack the heightened awareness to recognize the difference between authentic period detailing and the less-than-perfect substitutions. But everyone will notice a wristwatch, sunglasses, or tennis shoes. We have a responsibility to the public not to misrepresent the past; otherwise we are not preserving history but instead creating our own fiction and calling it the truth. Realistically, the appearance of the interpreter, our information base, our techniques, and our environment all affect the first-person experience. Historically accurate costuming perfection is laudable and reinforces academic credence. The minute details can be a springboard to important educational concepts; but the outfit is not the linchpin on which successful interpretation hangs. - 
												
												Pathein University Research Journal 2017, Vol. 7, No. 1
Pathein University Research Journal 2017, Vol. 7, No. 1 2 Pathein University Research Journal 2017, Vol. 7, No. 1 Pathein University Research Journal 2017, Vol. 7, No. 1 3 4 Pathein University Research Journal 2017, Vol. 7, No. 1 စ Pathein University Research Journal 2017, Vol. 7, No. 1 5 6 Pathein University Research Journal 2017, Vol. 7, No. 1 Pathein University Research Journal 2017, Vol. 7, No. 1 7 8 Pathein University Research Journal 2017, Vol. 7, No. 1 Pathein University Research Journal 2017, Vol. 7, No. 1 9 10 Pathein University Research Journal 2017, Vol. 7, No. 1 Spatial Distribution Pattrens of Basic Education Schools in Pathein City Tin Tin Mya1, May Oo Nyo2 Abstract Pathein City is located in Pathein Township, western part of Ayeyarwady Region. The study area is included fifteen wards. This paper emphasizes on the spatial distribution patterns of these schools are analyzed by using appropriate data analysis methods. This study is divided into two types of schools, they are governmental schools and nongovernmental schools. Qualitative and quantitative methods are used to express the spatial distribution patterns of Basic Education Schools in Pathein City. Primary data are obtained from field surveys, informal interview, and open type interview .Secondary data are collected from the offices and departments concerned .Detailed facts are obtained from local authorities and experience persons by open type interview. Key words: spatial distribution patterns, education, schools, primary data ,secondary data Introduction The study area, Pathein City is situated in the Ayeyarwady Region. The study focuses only on the unevenly of spatial distribution patterns of basic education schools in Pathein City . - 
												
												Ancient Textiles from the Andes
Whitworth Art Gallery | Manchester Ancient Textiles 29.03.2019 - 15.09.2019 from the Andes Preview: Thursday 28 March, 6-8 pm Opening March 29th 2019, the exhibition “Ancient Textiles from the Andes” at the Manchester Whitworth Gallery will present the Paul Hughes collection to compliment the Whitworth’s own collection of these splendorous woven artworks. Spanning the period 300 BC - 1200 AD, the exhibition is the most comprehensive insight to the Andean textile world ever mounted within the UK, a journey to unlock these exceptional cultures and artists to reveal their technical virtuosity and aesthetic refinements, also their role of revolutionising art history from the Bauhaus to other seminal artists and styles of our own era. Both Josef and Anni Albers were avid collectors as well as their Bauhaus collaborator and mentor Paul Klee. “Dedicated to my great teachers, the weavers of ancient Peru”, Ann Albers prefaced to her book “On Weaving”. In comparison to other medium such as ceramic, paintings and architectures, the textile arts of the Andes are widely regarded as the primal medium of artistic expression. A highly sophisticated system of textiles production that encompassed all known techniques and others such as interlocking tapestry, discontinuous weft, painted textiles, feather appliqué tie-dye and warped face weaving that emerged in cultures such as Paracas, Nazca, Wari, and Chancay will be displayed at the exhibition. Both in segments, wall hangings and in tunic forms, the exhibition narrates the complexities of their transition from local ritual to a wider shared universal culture. From an aesthetic point of view, Pre-Columbian Andean textile artists were also proficient in bold abstract expressions of solid colour fields and sophisticated geometries, also in more figurative stylistic renderings of their world and spiritual views. - 
												
												Textile Arts and Aesthetics in and Beyond the Medieval Islamic World
Perspective Actualité en histoire de l’art 1 | 2016 Textiles Crossroads of Cloth: Textile Arts and Aesthetics in and beyond the Medieval Islamic World Aux carrefours des étoffes : les arts et l’esthétique textiles dans le monde islamique médiéval et au-delà Vera-Simone Schulz Electronic version URL: http://journals.openedition.org/perspective/6309 DOI: 10.4000/perspective.6309 ISSN: 2269-7721 Publisher Institut national d'histoire de l'art Printed version Date of publication: 30 June 2016 Number of pages: 93-108 ISBN: 978-2-917902-31-8 ISSN: 1777-7852 Electronic reference Vera-Simone Schulz, « Crossroads of Cloth: Textile Arts and Aesthetics in and beyond the Medieval Islamic World », Perspective [Online], 1 | 2016, Online since 15 June 2017, connection on 01 October 2020. URL : http://journals.openedition.org/perspective/6309 ; DOI : https://doi.org/10.4000/ perspective.6309 Vera-Simone Schulz Crossroads of Cloth: Textile Arts and Aesthetics in and beyond the Medieval Islamic World A piece of woven silk preserved in the Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum in New York (fig. 1) shows medallions with pearl borders in which various animals appear. The elephants, winged horses, and composite creatures with dog heads and peacock tails are positioned alternately face-to-face and back-to-back. The fabric is designed to be viewed both from a distance and more closely. From a distance, the overall structure with its repeating pattern forms a grid in which geometrical roundels oscillate between contact and isolation. They are so close they seem almost to touch both each other and the complicated vegetal patterns in the spaces between, although in fact each roundel remains separate from every other visual element in the textile. - 
												
												Textile Society of America Newsletter 28:1 — Spring 2016 Textile Society of America
University of Nebraska - Lincoln DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln Textile Society of America Newsletters Textile Society of America Spring 2016 Textile Society of America Newsletter 28:1 — Spring 2016 Textile Society of America Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsanews Part of the Art and Design Commons Textile Society of America, "Textile Society of America Newsletter 28:1 — Spring 2016" (2016). Textile Society of America Newsletters. 73. https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsanews/73 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Textile Society of America at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Textile Society of America Newsletters by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. VOLUME 28. NUMBER 1. SPRING, 2016 TSA Board Member and Newsletter Editor Wendy Weiss behind the scenes at the UCB Museum of Anthropology in Vancouver, durring the TSA Board meeting in March, 2016 Spring 2016 1 Newsletter Team BOARD OF DIRECTORS Roxane Shaughnessy Editor-in-Chief: Wendy Weiss (TSA Board Member/Director of External Relations) President Designer and Editor: Tali Weinberg (Executive Director) [email protected] Member News Editor: Caroline Charuk (Membership & Communications Coordinator) International Report: Dominique Cardon (International Advisor to the Board) Vita Plume Vice President/President Elect Editorial Assistance: Roxane Shaughnessy (TSA President) [email protected] Elena Phipps Our Mission Past President [email protected] The Textile Society of America is a 501(c)3 nonprofit that provides an international forum for the exchange and dissemination of textile knowledge from artistic, cultural, economic, historic, Maleyne Syracuse political, social, and technical perspectives. - 
												
												Dream of Weaving
Dream of Weaving: Study & Documentation of Banaras Sarees and Brocades Sponsored under the project: “Strategies & Preparedness for Trade & Globalisation in India” A project of Ministry of Commerce & Industry UNCTAD and DFID Dream of Weaving: Study & Documentation of Banaras Sarees and Brocades Sponsored under the project: “Strategies & Preparedness for Trade & Globalisation in India” A project of Ministry of Commerce & Industry UNCTAD and DFID Prepared by Textiles Committee Government of India, Mumbai & Human Welfare Association, Varanasi Study jointly organised by Textiles Committee, Mumbai Human Welfare Association, Varanasi Final touch P. Nayak T.K.Rout Shakeel Shaikh Rajanikant © Textiles Committee, January, 2007 This is an official document prepared by the Textiles Committee jointly with Human Welfare Association, Varanasi. All rights reserved. Unless otherwise specified, no part of this publication may be reproduced or utilized in any form or by means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying and microfilm, without permission in writing from the Textiles Committee at the address given below: Director, Market Research Textiles Committee, Ministry of Textiles, Government of India, P. Balu Road, Prabhadevi Mumbai – 400 025 India Telephone 91+ 22 + 66527515/16 Telefax 91+ 22 + 66527509/653 Email [email protected] Website www.textilescommittee.gov.in PREFACE The entrepreneurial history of handloom production in the country has been traced back to even as early as Rig Veda, when the hiranya (gold cloth) existed in the society. Village industries and handlooms were well integrated into the rural economy and the whole organisation was a part and parcel of socio-cultural fabric of the society. The social traditions, ethos and values were reflected in the handloom products. - 
												
												Reinforcing Materials in Rubber Products
REINFORCING MATERIALS IN RUBBER PRODUCTS NOKIAN TYRES PLC [Compound Development and Applications George Burrowes, The Goodyear Tire & Rubber Company, Lincoln , Nebraska , U.S.A. Brendan Rodgers, The Goodyear Tire & Rubber Company, Akron, Ohio, U.S.A.] Summary As described in the other modules of the VERT learning program, many elastomer types are too weak to be used without some reinforcing system. This means that most practical rubber products like tyres, hoses and different kinds of belts include the concept of reinforcing the elastomer matrix with some reinforcing agent. There are two main possible reinforcing principles: either the elastomer matrix is compounded with reinforcing fillers or the product is provided with some fibre consisting components applied in the product assembly phases. The primary function of reinforcing filler is to improve the mechanical properties of the rubber compound, whereas the fibre based components have the extra purpose to give adequate functional properties to the product. In both cases it is crucially important, that the additional components of rubber compound and the product are well bonded to the elastomer segments of the matrix. In this module of the Virtual Education for Rubber Technology (VERT) we tend to provide a general background and awareness of reinforcing fibres, and to give the rubber technologists an improved basic understanding of the uses, processes and potential problems associated with the use of fibre components in rubber products. The VERT module “The raw materials and compounds” handles the fundamentals of the topics of reinforcing additives and fillers. The first part of this module covers the definitions and classification of the most common used textile fibres for example cotton, rayon, polyamide, polyester and aromatic polyamides. - 
												
												Identifying Textile Types and Weaves 1750-1950 DATS in Partnership with the V&A
Identifying Textile Types and Weaves 1750-1950 DATS in partnership with the V&A DATS DRESS AND TEXTILE SPECIALISTS 1 Identifying Textile Types and Weaves 1750-1950 Text copyright © DATS, 2007 Image copyrights as specified in each section. This information pack has been produced to accompany a one-day workshop of the same name taught by Sue Kerry and held at Birmingham Museum and Art Gallery Collections Centre on 29th November 2007. The workshop is one of three produced in collaboration between DATS and the V&A, funded by the Renaissance Subject Specialist Network Implementation Grant Programme, administered by the MLA. The purpose of the workshops is to enable participants to improve the documentation and interpretation of collections and make them accessible to the widest audience. Participants will have the chance to study objects at first hand to help increase their confidence in identifying textile materials and techniques. This information pack is intended as a means of sharing the knowledge communicated in the workshops with colleagues and the public. Other workshops / information packs in the series: Identifying Printed Textiles in Dress 1740 -1890 Identifying Handmade and Machine Lace Front Cover - English silk tissue, 1875, Spitalfields. T.147-1972 , Image © V&A Images / Victoria and Albert Museum 2 Identifying Textile Types and Weaves Contents Page 2. List of Illustrations 1 3. Introduction and identification checklist 3 4. Identifying Textile Types - Fibres and Yarns 4 5. Weaving and Woven Cloth Historical Framework - Looms 8 6. Identifying Basic Weave Structures – Plain Cloths 12 7. Identifying Basic Weave Structures – Figured / Ornate Cloths 17 8. - 
												
												The Origin and Historical Background of Ottoman and Italian Velvets
University of Nebraska - Lincoln DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings Textile Society of America 2016 Velvet and Patronage: The Origin and Historical Background of Ottoman and Italian Velvets Sumiyo Okumura Dr. [email protected] Follow this and additional works at: https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsaconf Part of the Art and Materials Conservation Commons, Art Practice Commons, Fashion Design Commons, Fiber, Textile, and Weaving Arts Commons, Fine Arts Commons, and the Museum Studies Commons Okumura, Sumiyo Dr., "Velvet and Patronage: The Origin and Historical Background of Ottoman and Italian Velvets" (2016). Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings. 1008. https://digitalcommons.unl.edu/tsaconf/1008 This Article is brought to you for free and open access by the Textile Society of America at DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. It has been accepted for inclusion in Textile Society of America Symposium Proceedings by an authorized administrator of DigitalCommons@University of Nebraska - Lincoln. Velvet and Patronage: The Origin and Historical Background of Ottoman and Italian Velvets Dr. Sumiyo Okumura Velvets are one of the most luxurious textile materials and were frequently used in furnishings and costumes in the Middle East, Europe and Asia in the fifteenth to sixteenth centuries. Owing to many valuable studies on Ottoman and Italian velvets as well as Chinese and Byzantine velvets, we have learned the techniques and designs of velvet weaves, and how they were consumed. However, it is not well-known where and when velvets were started to be woven. The study will shed light on this question and focus on the origin, the historical background and development of velvet weaving, examining historical sources together with material evidence. - 
												
												Color-Changing Intensified Light-Emitting Multifunctional Textiles
RSC Advances View Article Online PAPER View Journal | View Issue Color-changing intensified light-emitting multifunctional textiles via digital printing of Cite this: RSC Adv., 2020, 10,42512 biobased flavin† Sweta Narayanan Iyer, *abcd Nemeshwaree Behary,bc Jinping Guan,d Mehmet Orhan a and Vincent Nierstrasz a Flavin mononucleotide (biobased flavin), widely known as FMN, possesses intrinsic fluorescence characteristics. This study presents a sustainable approach for fabricating color-changing intensified light-emitting textiles using the natural compound FMN via digital printing technologies such as inkjet and chromojet. The FMN based ink formulation was prepared at 5 different concentrations using water and glycerol-based systems and printed on cotton duck white (CD), mercerized cotton (MC), and polyester (PET) textile woven samples. After characterizing the printing inks (viscosity and surface tension), the photophysical and physicochemical properties of the printed textiles were investigated Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 3.0 Unported Licence. using FTIR, UV/visible spectrophotometry, and fluorimetry. Furthermore, photodegradation properties were studied after irradiation under UV (370 nm) and visible (white) light. Two prominent absorption peaks were observed at around 370 nm and 450 nm on K/S spectral curves because of the functionalization of FMN on the textiles via digital printing along with the highest fluorescence intensities obtained for cotton textiles. Before light irradiation, the printed textiles exhibited greenish-yellow fluorescence at 535 nm for excitation at 370 nm. The fluorescence intensity varied as a function of the FMN concentration and the solvent system (water/glycerol). With 0.8 and 1% of FMN, the fluorescence of the printed textiles persisted even after prolonged light irradiation; however, the fluorescence color shifted from greenish-yellow color to turquoise blue then to white, with the fluorescence quantum This article is licensed under a efficiency values (4) increasing from 0.1 to a value as high as 1.