Ten things to do [6] Stroll along the beach from the Port Olímpic (see p. 86) and Frank Gehry's shimmer- ten things to do ing goldfish, past the Barceloneta beaches, [1] Climb through Gaudí’s unfinished Sagrada Família church (see beyond the fish auction p. 99), but leave time for his other main creations: Park Güell (see in the port on Moll dels p. 112), La Pedrera (Casa Milà; see p. 107), Casa Batlló (see p. 104), Pescadors, and out to the and Palau Güell (see p. 30). Rompeolas (breakwater) stretching out into the [2] Marvel at Hotel Espanya (see p. 37), Lluís Domènech i Montaner's Mediterranean. Modernista masterpiece. From the Ramon Casas mermaid mural to sculptor Eusebio Arnau's marble mantelpiece in the breakfast room, [7] Before you wander every detail is a work of art. down the Rambla (see p. 25), drink from the [3] Discover a serene corner of Barcelona at the 14th-century Font de les Canaletes Monestir de Pedralbes convent (see p. 111), with its orange tree-filled (pictured left) to ensure a cloister and painted murals by medieval Catalan artist Ferrer Bassa. return visit to Barcelona. [4] Explore the Boqueria [8] Walk through Carrer market (pictured right, and d'en Carabassa (map see p. 28) halfway down p. 49, G2). One of the Gothic quarter's most picturesque alleys where the Rambla, an exciting little bridges cross over the street, sgraffito designs decorate the walls, uproar of colours and and the giant figure of Our Lady of Mercy looms atop her basilica at aromas all assembled to the end of the street. produce one of the city’s main events: Mediterranean [9] Unpack your lab coat and research the finer points of molecular cuisine. gastronomy at some of the most scientific of restaurants in Europe: Alkimia; Cincs Sentits; and Manairó (see p. 116). [5] Impress your family and friends with beautiful [10] Stop off at the Fossar de les Moreres (Graveyard of the Mulberry hand-made gifts from the Trees), next to Santa Maria del Mar church (see p. 78), a low obelisk ona host of craft shops at Poble commemorating the defenders of Barcelona who fell in the siege that ona el el c Espanyol complex (see ended the War of the Spanish Succession on 11th September 1714, c p. 136) at Montjuïc park. Catalonia's National Day. 2 3 /s/e Bar /s/e Bar a a La Rambla & El Raval: The Rambla La Rambla & El Raval: The Rambla The Rambla 1 A The Ramblas dissected Café Viena Often cited in the plural as ‘Las Ramblas’, this teeming thor- (see p. 44) 2 oughfare is unofficially divided into five sections defined by the medieval gates of the city walls: B A Rambla de les Canaletes: Named for the canals that once 1 Canaletes fountain 3 brought water from the source of the Llobregat river in the 2 Reial Acadèmia de Ciénces Pyrenees to the Canaletes fountain (see previous page) i Arts de Barcelona 4 B Rambla dels Estudis: Referring to the university classrooms 3 Betlem Church located here until they were punitively banished by Felipe V 4 Palau Virreina 5 C because of anti-Castilian activity in the early 18th century. This part of the Rambla is now more commonly called Rambla dels Ocells (birds) for its bird market Antiga Casa 6 C Rambla de les Flors: Perhaps the most romantic section of the Figueres Rambla, named for the flower sellers who have traded here (see p. 43) since the 13th century, and where the Modernista artist Ramon 7 Casas first glimpsed his favourite muse (and future wife) selling flowers in the late 1800s. This section is also known as Rambla de Sant Josep for the Carmelite convent which was ‘exclois- tered’ in 1836 and subsequently demolished, making space for D Plaça Reial (see p. 62) the first stalls of the Boqueria market (see p. 28) D Rambla dels Caputxins: The name of this section of the Centre d’Art de Rambla is taken from the Capuchin monastery that stood here Santa Monica until the late 18th century E Rambla de Santa Mònica: Opposite the medieval shipyards 5 Boqueria market Drassanes Reials (see p. 36), this was the first section of the E 6 Miró mosaic Rambla to become popular as an aristocratic promenade, in the 7 Liceu opera house 18th century. It was named after the Santa Mònica convent 8 Columbus statue (1618), the oldest structure still remaining on the Rambla, and now a bookshop and modern art gallery Drassanes ona shipyards ona el el c (see p. 36) 8 c 26 27 /s/e Bar /s/e Bar a a Gothic Quarter: Shop Gothic Quarter: Shop pavement outside confirms, are a the Santa Maria del Pi church (see Pi church (see p. 62), this longtime olives from Spain's two dozen olive thousand tricks and baubles rang- p. 62), the shop has been on the ceramics favourite is easy to over- oil producing regions. Olive oil ing from carnival costumes and cutting edge of things for nearly look amidst all the other action shaving cream, olive oil lip balm, masks to plastic fruits and veg, 100 years. Don't miss the city's going on in and around this lively olive oil soap, olive oil candles ersatz insects, nail-through-hand earliest sgraffito designs on the part of the city. With, as the name along with extra virgin olive oils jokes, sneezing powders and just façade overhead. suggests, both old and new pieces served up in bottles and canisters about everything you could possibly B Heritage, Banys Nous 14, Tel: on sale, you might find anything that look as if they could contain need to liven up life around home. 933 178 515, open Mon–Sat 9.30–1.30 from a unique antique tile to a new single malt Scotch whisky, suggest H Formatgeria La Seu, Carrer & 4–7.30, Metro: Liceu. One of the line of plates, bowls, cups or cook- the reverence and respect this Dagueria 16, Tel: 934 126 548, open most gorgeous antique storefronts ing vessels stacked in this colourful treasured Mediterranean staple Tues–Sat 10–2 & 5–8; Sat 10–3.30 & in the Gothic quarter provides the and well-located ceramics shop. inspires. 5–8, Metro: Jaume I. The Gothic perfect introduction to a quirky L Oro Líquido, Carrer de la Palla 8, E Papirum, Baixada de la quarter's best cheese-tasting shop, miscellany of retro-styles and vin- Tel: 933 022 980, open Mon–Sat Llibreteria 2, Tel: 933 105 242, open on the site of an ancient buttery tage clothing. Balenciaga, Yves 10–1.30 & 4.30–8, Metro: Liceu. A Mon–Fri 10–8.30; Sat 5–8.30, Metro: with the 19th-century churn sitting Saint Laurent and the Pertegaz produce star specialising, as the Jaume I, Liceu. Hand-printed wrap- idle in the back room, is the realm labels are among the famous cloth- shop’s name suggests, in what the ping paper, marbled blank books, and reign of Scotswoman Katherine ing designers whose creations Spanish consider pure liquid gold: greeting cards, notebooks, pens McLaughlin. Carefully selected arti- adorn this elegant haberdashery. olive oils and products derived from and pencils of all shapes and sizes: san-produced cheeses from cow, J La Manual Alpargatera, Carrer goat and sheep’s milk from all over Avinyó 7, Tel: 933 010 172, open One of the sharp displays at knife and utensil shop Ganiveteria Roca Spain as well as superb olive oils Mon–Fri 9.30–1.30 & 4.30–8; Sat can be tasted or taken home in 10–8, Metro: Catalunya, Liceu. Run Katherine's artistic wrapping paper by a sweet team of avias (grand- fashioned from local newspapers. mothers) this long-famous bou- For on-premises tasting, don't miss tique has artisans putting together a chance to use the cheese boards sandals in the back of the show- with slots for holding wine glasses. room where you can watch them I Ganiveteria Roca, Plaça del Pi 3, work. La Manual has sold hand- Tel: 933 021 241, open Mon–Sat made rope-sole sandals to every- 10–1.30 & 4.30–8, Metro: Catalunya, one up to and including the Pope. Liceu. In medieval times, Barcelona Espadrilles such as the model used was famous for the quality of its for dancing the sardana (a regional sword manufacturers, and this dance with ancient origins where knife and utensil shop is the direct participants dance in circles) are heir to this tradition. Scalpels, available here, along with custom switchblades, daggers, pocket- made creations you can design knives, razors, scissors, hatchets, yourself and have shipped home. axes, swords, nail clippers, tweez- K Molsa—Nou i Vell, Plaça Sant ona ers and penknives are all on display Josep Oriol 1, Tel: 933 023 103, open ona el el c (pictured right). Facing the enor- Mon–Sat 10–1.30 & 4.30–7, Metro: c mous stained glass rose window of Liceu. Next to the Santa Maria del 70 71 /s/e Bar /s/e Bar a a Eixample & Upper Barcelona: Manzana de la Discordia Eixample & Upper Barcelona: Manzana de la Discordia The undulating roof represents a humpbacked dragon. The turret is St George's lance piercing the monster's side. The ghoulish death's head Manzana de la Discordia balconies are supported by the bones of the dragon's victims. Casa Batlló was a remodelling of an existing building, but Gaudí Metro: Passeig de Gràcia Map: p. 96, D3 completely altered the house from inside out.