Ten Things to Do

a/s/e 2 Barcelona p. 112 market ( Monestir dePedralbesconvent( and PalauGüell( [5] [4] [3] Modernista [2] [1] every detailisaworkofart. sculptor EusebioArnau'smarblemantelpieceinthebreakfastroom, cuisine. main events:Mediterranean produce oneofthecity’s aromas allassembledto uproar ofcoloursand the Rambla,anexciting cloister andpaintedmuralsbymedievalCatalanartistFerrerBassa. p. 99 see p.28 p. 136)atMontjuïc park. Espanyol complex (see host ofcraftshops atPoble hand-made giftsfromthe and friendswithbeautiful ten things to do Climb throughGaudí’sunfinishedSagradaFamíliachurch( Impress yourfamily Explore theBoqueria Discover aserenecornerofBarcelonaatthe14th-century Marvel atHotelEspanya( ), butleavetimeforhisothermaincreations:ParkGüell( ), LaPedrera(CasaMilà; pictured right,and ) halfwaydown masterpiece. FromtheRamonCasasmermaidmuralto see p.30 ). see p.37 see p.107 see p.111 ), LluísDomènechiMontaner's ), CasaBatlló( ), withitsorangetree-filled see p.104 see see ), p. 49,G2 Alkimia; CincsSentits;andManairó ( gastronomy atsomeofthemost scientificofrestaurantsinEurope: Catalonia's National Day. ended theWarof theSpanishSuccessionon11th September1714, commemorating thedefendersof Barcelonawhofellinthesiegethat [10] [9] the endofstreet. and thegiantfigureofOurLadyMercyloomsatopherbasilica at little bridgescrossoverthestreet, Trees), nexttoSantaMariadelMar church( Unpack yourlabcoatandresearch thefinerpointsofmolecular Stop offattheFossardelesMoreres (GraveyardoftheMulberry ). OneoftheGothicquarter'smostpicturesquealleyswhere sgraffito see p.116 designs decoratethewalls, see p.78 Pescadors, andouttothe in theportonMolldels beyond thefishauction Barceloneta beaches, ing goldfish,pastthe Frank Gehry'sshimmer- d'en Carabassa( down theRambla( Olímpic ( beach fromthePort return visittoBarcelona. [8] [7] Rompeolas [6] ( Font delesCanaletes Mediterranean. stretching outintothe p. 25 pictured left ). Walk throughCarrer Before youwander Stroll alongthe ), drinkfromthe see p.86 ), alowobelisk (breakwater) ) toensurea map Ten thingsto do ) and see 3 a/s/e Barcelona 26 a/s/e Barcelona La Rambla&ElRaval: TheRambla The Rambla ( shipyards Drassanes Santa Monica Centre d’Artde see p.36 4 3 2 1 P Betlem Church Reial Ac Canaletes fountain ( Figueres Antiga Casa alau Virreina i ArtsdeBarcelona see p.43 ) adèmia deCiénces ) ( Café Viena see p.44 8 ) E 7 D 5 6 4 3 C 2 B 8 7 6 5 Columbus statue Liceu opera house Miró mosaic Boqueria market 1 A ( Plaça Reial see p.62 ) now abookshopandmodernart gallery (1618), theoldeststructurestillremaining ontheRambla,and 18th century.Itwasnamedafter theSantaMònicaconvent Rambla tobecomepopularasan aristocraticpromenade,inthe since the13thcentury,andwhere Rambla, namedfortheflowersellerswhohavetradedhere Ocells (birds)foritsbirdmarket part oftheRamblaisnowmorecommonlycalleddels because ofanti-Castilianactivityintheearly18thcentury.This located hereuntiltheywerepunitivelybanishedbyFelipeV Pyrenees totheCanaletesfountain( brought waterfromthesourceofLlobregatriverin Drassanes Reials( medieval gatesofthecitywalls: oughfare isunofficiallydividedintofivesectionsdefinedbythe Often citedinthepluralas‘LasRamblas’,thisteemingthor- The Ramblasdissected the firststallsofBoqueriamarket( tered’ in1836andsubsequentlydemolished,makingspacefor de SantJosepfortheCarmeliteconventwhichwas‘exclois- flowers inthelate1800s.ThissectionisalsoknownasRambla Casas firstglimpsedhisfavouritemuse(andfuturewife)selling until thelate18thcentury Rambla istakenfromtheCapuchinmonasterythatstoodhere B A D C E Rambla deSanta Mònica: Rambla delsCaputxins: Rambla deles Flors: Rambla delsEstudis: Rambla deles Canaletes: see p.36 Perhaps themostromanticsectionof Referring totheuniversityclassrooms The nameofthissectionthe ), thiswasthefirstsectionof Named forthecanalsthatonce Opposite themedievalshipyards see previouspage Modernista see p.28 La Rambla&ElRaval: TheRambla ) artist Ramon ) 27 a/s/e Barcelona 70 a/s/e Barcelona Gothic Quarter: Shop mous stained glass rose window of need to liven uplife around home. about everything you could possibly jokes, sneezingpowders andjust ersatz insects,nail-through-hand masks to plastic fruitsandveg, ing from carnival costumes and thousand tricksandbaubles rang- pavement outsideconfirms, are a Liceu 10–1.30 &4.30–8,Metro: Catalunya, Tel: 933021241,openMon–Sat ( ers andpenknives are all ondisplay axes, swords, nailclippers, tweez- knives, razors, scissors, hatchets, switchblades, daggers, pocket- heir to thistradition. Scalpels, knife andutensil shopisthedirect sword manufacturers, andthis was famous for the qualityofits 5–8, Metro: JaumeI Tues–Sat 10–3.30& 10–2&5–8;Sat Dagueria 16,Tel: 934126548,open F fashioned from local newspapers. Katherine's artistic wrapping paper can betasted ortaken homein Spain aswell assuperbolive oils goat andsheep’s milkfrom allover san-produced cheesesfrom cow, McLaughlin. Carefully selected arti- and reign ofScotswoman Katherine idle inthebackroom, istherealm with the19th-century churnsitting on thesite ofanancientbuttery quarter's best cheese-tasting shop, with sl a chanc pictured right H I or on-pr Ganiveteria Roca Formatgeria LaSeu . Inmedieval times,Barcelona ots for holdingwineglasses. e to usethecheeseboards emises t ). Facing theenor- as . TheGothic ting, don'tmiss , Plaça delPi3, , Carrer the Santa MariadelPichurch ( & 4–7.30,Metro: Liceu 9.30–1.30 933 178515,openMon–Sat yourself andhave shippedhome. made creations you can design available here, along withcustom participants dance in circles) are dance withancientorigins where Liceu 10–1.30&4.30–7,Metro:Mon–Sat Josep Oriol1,Tel: 933 023103,open 10–8, Metro: Catalunya,Liceu Mon–Fri 9.30–1.30&4.30–8;Sat Avinyó 7,Tel: 933010172,open earliest 100 years. Don'tmiss thecity's cutting edgeofthingsfor nearly by asweet team of adorn thiselegant haberdashery. ing designers whosecreations labels are amongthefamous cloth- Saint Laurent andthePertegaz tage clothing. Balenciaga, Yves miscellany ofretro-styles andvin- perfect introduction to aquirky in theGothicquarter provides the most gorgeous antiquestorefronts façade overhead. p. 62 tique hasartisansputtingt mothers) this long-famous bou- for dancingthe Espadrilles suchasthemodelused one upto andincludingthePope. made rope-sole sandalsto every- work. LaManualhassoldhand- r sandals inthebackofsho K B J oom where you can watch them Molsa—Nou iVell La ManualAlpargatera Heritage ), theshophasbeenon . Next to theSanta Mariadel sgraffito , Banys Nous14,Tel:Banys sardana designs onthe avias . Oneofthe , Plaça Sant (a regional (grand- ogether , . Run Carrer w- see olive oilsandproducts derived from Spanish consider pure liquidgold: shop’s namesuggests, inwhat the produce star specialising,asthe and well-located ceramics shop. ing vessels stacked inthiscolourful line ofplates, bowls, cupsorcook- from auniqueantiquetile to anew on sale, you mightfindanything suggests, botholdandnew pieces part ofthecity. With,asthename going oninandaround thislively look amidst alltheotheraction ceramics favourite iseasyto over- 10–1.30 &4.30–8,Metro: Liceu Tel: 933022980,openMon–Sat One ofthesharpdisplaysatknife andutensil shopGaniveteria Roca Pi church ( L Oro Líquido see p.62 , Carrer delaPalla 8, ), thislongtime . A and pencilsofallshapessizes: greeting cards, notebooks, pens ping paper,marbled blankbooks, inspires. treasured Mediterranean staple the reverence andrespect this single maltScotch whisky,suggest that look asifthey could contain served upinbottles andcanisters along withextra virgin olive oils olive oilsoap,olive oilcandles shaving cream, olive oillipbalm, oil producing regions. Olive oil olives from Spain'stwo dozenolive Jaume I,Liceu Mon–Fri 5–8.30,Metro: 10–8.30;Sat Llibreteria 2,Tel: 933105242,open E Papirum , Baixada dela . Hand-printed wrap- Gothic Quarter: Shop 71 a/s/e Barcelona 104 a/s/e Barcelona Eixample &UpperBarcelona: ManzanadelaDiscordia figures ofBarcelona dess, Aphrodite).This‘cityblockofdiscord'iswherethethreegreatest Discord (theprizePariswaschargedtobestowuponhisfavouritegod- Barcelona architecturalface-offandtheclassicalmythofApple what musthavebeenaslowday,punsthejealousiesarousedby nickname, coinedbya19th-century Casa Batlló Manzana Manzana delaDiscordia been replacedwith somethingmorehal though milkandhoneyseemtohave aimed tocreatea‘visionofparadise', about itaswell.Gaudísaidthathe work, thereissomethingfaintlysinister most original.AswithmuchofGaudí's like sequins,CasaBatllóisGaudí at his pled façadewhichcatchesthesunlight colouring, mascaronbalconiesandstip- and other-worldly,withitsrainbow tlo.es, Metro:PasseigdeGràcia charge, Tel:934880139,www.casabat and CasaLleóMorera. buildings: CasaBatlló,Amatller three verydifferent,andimportant, head-to-head andhand-to-handwith and LluísDomènechiMontaner—went Antoni Gaudí,JosepPuigiCadafalch imbued withnationalist symbolism. lucinogenic. The entire constructis Highlights: Metro: Amatller andCasaLleó Morera Passeig deGràcia means both‘cityblock'and‘apple'inCastilianSpanish.The ( open daily9–8,entrance Main salon ofCasaBatlló;sculpted façades ofCasa Modernisme Map: ). Exotic — p. 96,D3 Vanguardia Española - - journalist, on Park Güell( ture GaudídesignedforthishouseisdisplayedattheCasa-Museuin inglenook fireplacedesignedfortwointhechimneyroom.Thefurni- ing oftheatticrooms.Anotherfantasticalfeatureisintimate the gabled roof.Thesculptureson including aFlemishstep- Romantic schools,aswell from theneo-Gothicand eclectic inspirit,borrowing Cadafalch's remodellingis chocolate business.Puigi money camefromthefamily Amatller iCosta,whose the architectchosenbyAntoni Josep PuigiCadafalchwas to becompleted(1900)andwas,likeCasaBatlló,aremodellingjob. bat onthemain entrance. The the dragonarelocked incom clay potwhileStGeorgeand uid chocolate;apigturns hobbies. Tworabbitspourliq- in Amatller'sownpursuitsand animals areshownindulging celebrated sculptor.Playful marine stainedglassinthe Arnau, Casa Amatller interiors wereinspiredbyJulesVerne's completely alteredthehousefrominsideout.Thewavy,sub-aquatic balconies aresupportedbythebonesofdragon'svictims. George's lancepiercingthemonster'sside.Theghoulishdeath'shead The undulatingroofrepresentsahumpbackeddragon.turretisSt Under theSea de Gràcia Casa Batllówasaremodellingofanexistingbuilding,butGaudí façade Modernisme ). ThiswasthefirstbuildingofManzanadelaDiscordia are byEusebi see p.112 , thehighlightofwhichisswirlingroofandaqua- ( closed tothepublic,Tel:934880139,MetroPasseig 's most ). main salon - Eixample &UpperBarcelona: ManzanadelaDiscordia , andthewhale-bonestructur- Twenty ThousandLeagues 105 a/s/e Barcelona 116 a/s/e Barcelona Eixample &UpperBarcelona: Eat Me 1.30–3.30 &8.30–11, 310 057,openT la Diputació424,T 8.30–11, Metro: Provença T 239 490,openMon1.30–4, Carrer Aribau58,Tel: 933 FamíliaMetro: Sagrada 1.30–3.30 &8.30–11, Mon 1.30–4,Tues–Sat 79, Tel: 932076115,open guy' forhisthenradical culinary spotlightsoonafter.Originallyknownas‘thefoam Catalonia andhisworkshopElTallerinBarcelonaenteredthe methods. FerranAdriàathisrestaurantElBulliinnorthern the early1990sexperimentingwithtaste,formandcooking gastronomy, amovementwhichformallycametothetablein ‘Cooking meetsscience’bestdescribestheessenceofmolecular Ferran Adrià&Molecular Gastronomy advance): Barcelona’s ownmoleculargastronomyare(essentialtobookin reflected light.OurRecommendedrestaurantsforsampling fleet ofworld-famouschefsisbasking,tosomedegree,inhis Pandora's boxofculinarycreativityandBarcelona’sgrowing caviar tinsfilledwithcongealedmelondrops.Adriàopenedthe urchins andaconcentrateofprawnheads),Petrossian world rosewaterbubbles,Kellogg'sPaella(RiceKrispieswithsea than-soufflé montageofairandegg,Adriàwentontogivethe ation thatcapturedthearomasofwoodsmokeinalighter- 9 8 7 ues–Sat 1.30–3.30& ues–Sat tr €€ Manairó €€€ CincSentits €€€ Alkimia o: Monumental ues–Sat , , Carrer de el: 932 Indústria . , . . espuma dehumo (foam ofsmoke)cre- p. 89 cial damage. without sustaining massive finan- indulge your wildest food fantasies tasting portionsallow you to exquisite products. Fortunately, the Champagnes to gowiththese goose livers) andcavas and oysters, caviars, foies (duckand malist diningspace specialisesin Thierry Airaud's attractive, mini- 8am–midnigh 269, Tel: 934880977,openMon–Sat 12–3.30,Metro:& Sun Sarrià Tues–Sat 1.30–3.30&8.30–11.30,Sat Flaquer 8,Tel: 932059969,open served atthemolecular gastronomy specialist CincSentits Langoustine tails inagreen almond iron skillets of topped withduckliver), sizzling at thebar. McFoieburgers (steak two o'clock you mightfindaplace diners, thoughifyou make itbefore with atleast halfadozenaspiring venues. one ofthecity'sbusiest shopping market excitement inthemidst of dining space thatexudes Boqueria put together alively andpopular the sea.Genaro andhisstaff have restaurants withfineproduce from have suppliedBarcelona's top Gr success, Comerç 24inElBorn; bar (to complement hisfirst big Barcelona isathoroughly hiptapas r 11 10 ecent culinaryventure in àcia €€ Tapaç 24 €€ Gouthier ). Theplace isusually clogged . Carl Map oninsidecover es Abellan'smost t, Me Map oninsidecover callos , , Carrer Diputació Carrer Mañéi tr o: P (tripe), and asseig de . see ajoblanco bar oneofthecity’s best. first-rate winelist make thistapas 8.30–11.30, Metro: Tres Torres Mon–Fri 1.30–3.30&8.30–11.30,Sat Obispo Catala, Tel: 932047962,open 8.30–11.30, Metro: Muntaner 1.30–3.30 &8.30–11.30,Sat 101, Tel: 932414031,openMon–Fri and goatcheese)or i ceba town. Lookfor Catalan andbest-value menusin is oneofthemost authentically Clarist nunsacross thestreet, this cheese) traditionally madebythe fish fillet with confitada yquesodecabra milhojas decalabacín con tomate Map oninsidecover p. 111 calçots onions) with moso depatatas congratinada jamónibérico ycre- the Monestir dePedralbes ( A handyrefueling stop after touring the nearbyMercat Galvany creates Cabot. Fresh market produce from and hiswif t and c A seriesofintimate diningrooms inée gette creamed potatoes). 13 12 ended bychefGuillermo Casañé € Silvestre € ElMatódePedralbes soup andalmondice cream, (onion soup)or ozy c ) namedfor the millefeuille (potato andonionomelette). (long-stemmed spring orner e andmaître d'Marta Eixample &UpperBarcelona: Eat romesco ibérico , sopa deceba grat- s ar Carrer deSantaló (gratineed monk- with tomato confit e carefully truite de patata colita derape ham and sauce anda mató (cour- (cottage . , see Carrer . 117 a/s/e Barcelona