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Myanmar Quest Guide to Myanmar.Pdf GUIDE TO MYANMAR Yangon, Myanmar view of Shwedagon Pagoda at dusk 2 Yangon MYANMAR QUEST Myanmar is only just getting started who want to see the best of Myanmar. opening up to tourists, and that can Whether you want a five day whistle- make it difficult for all but the hardened stop tour of the top sights or a leisurely backpacker to find the best and most trekking tour way off the beaten track authentic experiences on their own. including a stay in an elephant camp, we’re at your service! That’s why we’ve worked with local partners to help travellers discover this For more itinerary ideas, and more vibrant, varied and colourful country. photos of this beautiful country, visit We’re new - but they have a decade our website at myanmarquest.com of experience dealing with travellers and prepare to be inspired. 3 After decades of isolation, Myanmar has finally started to open up to foreign travellers. It’s a country of bright colours and spicy tastes. It’s a country of immense diversity, sandwiched between India, China and Thailand - you’ll recognise influences from all these countries, but Myanmar . MYANMAR . definitely has a flavour all its own. 1 Its highlights include golden Buddhas, ancient temples, the colonial architecture of Yangon, pristine lakes, rocky mountains and possibly the bumpiest train ride on earth. But even a stroll down an ordinary street will produce memories to treasure - kids hanging out with kittens in the local pagoda, an old monk who wants to talk about London, or a sweet, sticky cup of tea on the veranda of an old teahouse. It’s that kind of place. 4 5 2. COLOUR Myanmar is a wonderfully colourful country. Forget grey suits and greyer Monday mornings - in Myanmar, the favourite colours are bright fuchsia pink and lime or pistachio green. Buddhist monks in their red and orange robes look almost drab next to this display of vivid colour; nuns, on the other hand, wear pastel pink. Fetchingly lurid turquoise paint decorates many houses, and if all these colours aren’t enough, then why not throw in a good handful of gold leaf? 6 7 3. CUSTOMS Men in skirts, and everyone in face paint - right from the moment you arrive, Myanmar will surprise you. Many men - as well as nearly all women - wear the traditional longyi, a long, sarong-like skirt. For men, it’s usually in a dark checker-board or striped fabric, whereas for women, bright colours are the norm, with a nipped-waist jacket on top and, often, a shawl over one shoulder. (Shoulders and legs should always be covered, something you might consider when you’re packing.) 8 EVERY TEMPLE, AND MANY SHOPS AND BUSINESSES, HAVE A WATER COOLER OUTSIDE. SOME STILL HAVE THE TRADITIONAL EARTHEN POTS, WHICH KEEP THE WATER COOL THROUGH EVAPORATION, BUT MAKE IT TASTE RATHER MUSTY. You’ll see women with big circles of yellow paste on their cheeks, and children with it smeared all over their faces; some men just cover the nose and cheekbones. The thanaka paste is a sunscreen - particularly important for young kids, in this hot sunny climate. Grab some photos - youngsters in particular will be happy to pose. If you want to do some peoplewatching, temples are a good place to start - whole families hang out at the paya in the evenings or in the hot midday. Even an unassuming neighbourhood temple often has a vibrant life of its own - but remember to take your shoes off before you cross the threshold. 9 4. RELIGION 10 Myanmar is as diverse in religion as of gaining merit and securing a better it is in other ways - though it’s mainly rebirth into the next life. Buddhist, there are significant Christian and Muslim minorities. Even Buddhism In Mandalay, the grumble of angle- is mixed up with animism in the worship grinders and thud of stoneworkers’ of ‘nats’, local spirits who can make your mallets on chisels fills the air in streets wishes come true. One horse-riding near the Mahamuni temple. In the nat has dollar bills pushed into his fists market attached to the temple you can - other gifts include whisky, rum and buy monks’ robes - a common charitable cigarettes. donation - or figures of tiger-riding nats, as well as Buddhas. Or you can settle for Spending time as a monk is part of a meditation gong cut out of thick brass, growing up for boys and young men whose gentle note will always remind in Myanmar, and some girls also pass you of your time in Myanmar. part of their education as trainee nuns. Buddhist temples, or ‘pagodas’ (paya), Myanmar Quest’s guides will even show serve as social centres, schools, and you the workshops where gold leaf is information points as well as places of beaten by hand so thinly that you have worship. Most are highly decorated, to hold your breath or it will float away with brightly coloured paint and gold - before it’s used to decorate the gilded leaf. Paying for the décor is one way Buddha statues in the temples. 11 5. F O O D CAN’T GET THE WAIT STAFF’S ATTENTION? IN MYANMAR, YOU MAKE A SMOOCHY KISSY SOUND TO GET SERVED. DON’T TRY IT AT HOME! 12 Myanmar’s diversity shows up in its rice as well as noodles, lime, onions and food; though it benefits from Indian, hard boiled eggs. Even with a simple dish, Chinese and Thai influences, it’s not you’ll get a variety of different toppings quite like any of its neighbours’ cuisines. and sauces - crunchy peanuts, sweet It’s spicy, but mild; sometimes quite tart, and sour relishes, pungent fish sauce, or but also sweet. You can go for a full-on fresh herbs. Variety, here, is quite literally weird food experience and eat chicken the spice of life. neck salad or fried crickets, or savour a curry with just enough spice for a gentle Teahouses are a national institution; buzz or a sweet sticky rice parcel in the tea is strong and sweet, usually with banana leaf. condensed milk straight out of the tin. If you really want to get the flavour of If there’s a national dish, it’s mohinga, a Myanmar, only one place is better - the kind of fish soup - but no one can quite street stall, where you’ll find the freshest, agree on the recipe, which might include tastiest food. 13 6. ETHNIC DIVERSITY Myanmar is an ethnically diverse Don’t judge on appearances - get country with no fewer than 135 to know people properly. Someone ethnic groups. The most famous are might wear a suit for work, jeans at probably the Kayan tribe with their the weekend, and full formal longyi ‘long necked’ women; you’ll find Naga suit to celebrate a young relative’s tribespeople on the Indian border, with ear-piercing ceremony. Pa-O women their strongly built and well-attended might strut the whole tribal costume, Baptist churches, and the Moken ‘sea but many of the men just jazz up gypsies’ on the islands off the coast. In regular western clothes with a bright Shan villages, baseball caps mix with the orange turban. Chat to a saffron-robed traditional conical straw hats; Muslim old monk in a temple and he may men henna their beards orange, and turn out to be a former bank Enn highlanders chew betel which manager. And Yangon even has a turns their teeth black, and sell their small but committed Rastafarian handicrafts at Kengtung market. community! 14 15 7. FESTIVALS 16 Myanmar has an amazing array of August’s Nat festival at Taung festivals. Every pagoda has its own Byone is raucous and exuberant. festival, so even if you’re not at Bagan’s The Nat images come out to play, Ananda Paya festival in January or transvestite and transgender shamen Yangon’s Shwedagon Paya festival in channel the Nat spirits, and everyone March, you have a chance of finding a drinks and dances way too much. smaller celebration going on. There’s another big Nat festival in Myitkyina every January, with mass The Thingyan (New Year) festival in buffalo sacrifices, magnificently mid April celebrates the end of the dry costumed dancers, and vats of rice season. Watch out for water fights - beer to drink. if you’re out on the street, you’re fair game! People party like there’s no You didn’t manage to catch a tomorrow, with massive sound systems festival? Hang about Shwedagon pumping out rock music, but you’ll also Paya long enough and you’ll find traditional song and dance pavilions probably catch a family celebration if you look around a bit. This is also the - if they’re wealthy enough, with time to see golden padauk flowers which photographers and film crew blossom only in the earliest rain showers. in tow. 17 18 8. MONUMENTS Myanmar is a country where it’s difficult to divide monuments and landscape. At Bagan, for instance, medieval pagodas are scattered across the plain by the Ayeyarwady river; at Mount Popa, one of the country’s major Nat shrines is perched high on a rocky outcrop with amazing mountain views. At Mount Kyaiktiyo, Buddhists visit a stupa perched on a gold-encased boulder balanced precariously on top of a mountain. But you’ll find other monuments in the big cities. In Mandalay ancient temples and lovely wooden buildings share space with skyscrapers and tree-shaded residential districts. And the city is surrounded by the remains of former capitals - a huge but never finished stupa across the river at Mingun, and a whole hill of ancient monasteries at Sagaing.
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