Chianti: World Famous; Yet Mostly Misunderstood By Michael Schafer There are eight regions in the Chianti DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita) i.e. the Chianti is one of the most recognizable wines in the Appellation of Controlled and Guaranteed Origin. This long world, yet many wine enthusiasts are bewildered by the phrase guarantees the wine will be of the highest quality. different labels and regions they see on bottles of Chianti. Here is a quick guide to the aging requirements of the Let’s explore this wonderful wine. different subregions of Chianti: Chianti is a large area in central Tuscany comprising more than 38,000 acres. If you remember the straw- • Colli Senesi: Aged for 6 months covered bottles that were ubiquitous in the 1960’s-1970’s, • Colline Pisane: Aged for 6 months they were known as fiascos, perhaps due to the less-than- • Colli Aretini: Aged for 6 months stellar quality of wines in them. • Montalbano: Aged for 6 months Chianti varies widely from bottle to bottle. The varied • Montespertoli: Aged for 9 months minimum terroir in the region offers wines of refreshing acidity and • Rùfina: Aged for a year minimum grippy tannins to elegant, complex wines of balance and • Colli Fiorentini: Aged for a year minimum depth. One of the most frequent descriptors is cherry. This historic wine, as with most Italian wines, is made to be Riserva is aged for two years and can be from any subregion enjoyed with food. of Chianti or from Chianti Classico. History The League of Chianti was originally created to protect Gallo Nero Florence from other duchy-states around it. In 1394 the Chianti Classico is at the heart and center of the region. League changed focus to promote the wine and viticulture It’s 17,800 acres of vineyards are between Florence and of the area. Then in 1716, the Grand Duke of Tuscany, the Siena, two of the most picturesque spots in all of Italy. infamous Cosimo Medici III established a larger region that In 1716 it was designated as “Chianti Classico” because extended from the north to the south of the current region. natives considered it the iconic wine of Chianti. Gran The current emphasis on Sangiovese as the dominant Selezione (only from Chianti Classico) is aged for at least 30 grape began with Baron Bettino Ricasoli when in1872 he months. created a recipe for Chianti that included Canaiolo Nero The famous black rooster symbol or gallo nero is now and Malvasia. the official emblem of Chianti Classico. Why a black rooster? In 1984 Chianti Classico became DOCG and allowed ten Florence and Siena were fierce rivals for power and land percent of non-traditional grapes in the mix. In 1996 the back in the day (800 years ago). Stay with me here. The laws changed once again, mandating 75-100% Sangiovese rival city-states agreed to determine their border with a grapes. In 2006, all white grapes were forbidden. The Gran race. The legend is that the competitors would each send Selezione tier was introduced in 2104 featuring the 2010 their best horseman into the territory at sun-up to ride as vintage. What a history! fast as possible. Their meeting place would determine the boundary between Siena and Florence. The rivals decided The Regions to use roosters to wake up the riders. In an interesting turn As crazy as it seems, Chianti Classico and Chianti are of events, each city chose a rooster to wake their respective actually two separate wines with different production rider. regulations! The Sienese allegedly selected a white rooster and fed him as much as he could eat. They reasoned he would wake up early to eat even more. The Florentines were more devious, picking a black rooster they fed nothing. They thought the hungrier bird would wake up really early looking for food. Remember last Thanksgiving when you fell asleep on the couch after satiating yourself with the bounty of the feast? Now think back to when you were ravenous because you skipped breakfast and lunch and all of a sudden it was four o’clock and you were really, really hungry after waking up from that 15 minute catnap. Sound familiar? 2 FALL/WINTER 2019 - TASTERS GUILD JOURNAL As you have probably already discerned, the black rooster, Pairings hungry, cranky, and upset, woke up before the well-fed Chianti pairs effortlessly with so many slumbering white rooster. The black rooster crowed earlier delectable dishes. For appetizers, the than his white counterpart. The horseman from Florence Tagliere, the Tuscan version of charcuterie is took off before the horseman from Siena and the rest was a board piled high with cheeses, salami and history! prosciutto. A bit of Some accounts honey for drizzling say the Florentine pulls together the rider met up with his saltiness of the Sienese competitor cured meats and when the rider from the tanginess of Siena was only seven the cheeses. They and a half miles from combine to soften his start. It’s about and enhance the 50 miles from Siena Chianti. to Florence! Classic parings Thus the Gallo are pizza, pasta Nero was adopted as with red sauce, the official emblem lasagna and of the League of carbonara. The Chianti in 1384. The best cheeses to Chianti Classic Wine enjoy with Chianti Consortium adopted are Parmigiano it 2005. Reggiano, Pecorino Roman The Grapes and Asiago. If you’re on a budget Provolone is delicious Chianti is composed primarily of Sangiovese grapes, and Grana Padano is an excellent substitute for Parmigiano the most-planted varietal in Tuscany. These grapes are, like Reggiano. Pinot Noir, temperamental, late ripening and challenging to Bistecca alla Fiorentina, the most popular meat dish in grow. It ripens unevenly and while the wine may be a blend Tuscany is fantastic with Chianti. The acidity and tannins of of red grapes, at least 80% must be Sangiovese. The word the wine cuts through the fat of the porterhouse beef for a Sangiovese is from Latinsanguis Jovis - the blood of Jupiter, marvelous mouthful! a name given by monks living near Mount Jupiter, near the Surprisingly tasty are certain Mexican dishes with region. Chianti, especially younger, fruiter styles of Chianti. Carne asada, queso fundido and carnitas tacos all benefit from a glass of this famous Italian wine. A note on tasting Chianti (or any wine for that matter) if you have enjoyed the wine in the area where it is made. Your author has frequently been asked: “Why doesn’t the same wine I tasted in Tuscany taste the same at home?” Even if it’s the exact same wine, including the vintage, the wine will taste different at home than when you enjoyed it where the grapes grew that made the wine. Your experience in the Tuscan countryside on vacation with loved ones enjoying local Italian food while watching the sun set from your villa is a fundamentally different experience than tasting it while helping the grand/children with their homework as you wash the dishes! Capiche? Before 2006 the white grapes, Malvasia and Trebbiano were permitted in Chianti. White grapes are no longer Cheers! allowed. Only the following red grapes such as Colorino, Canaiolo Nero, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon are © 2019 The Wine Counselor LLC permitted to be blended with Sangiovese. 3 FALL/WINTER 2019 - TASTERS GUILD JOURNAL • • • • • • • • • The Retailer's Shelf BODEGAS MUGA 2018 RIOJA BLANCO, By Dick Scheer, Village Corner SPAIN $16 Ann Arbor, Michigan Founded in 1932, Bodegas Muga sits rightly between the traditional Rioja houses founded H. SICHEL SOHNE BLUE NUN SCHAUMWEIN WITH 24 in the 19th century and modernists started KARAT GOLD FLAKES, GERMANY $15 up after 2000. It has its barrel aged masterpieces and Well, how about this blast from the past! Back in the 1960s also wines of freshness, making some of the best rose and 1970s, when I was getting started as a wine merchant, and white wines of the region. This 2018 Blanco consists Blue Nun was a gateway wine for many a budding wine of 90% Viura, the telling white variety of Rioja, plus 10% lover. The brand goes back much further though; it was Malvasia and Garnacha Blanca. Following skin maceration, introduced in the great 1921 vintage. Almost 100 years it was fermented in French oak barrels and aged on its lees later comes a new iteration: a sparkling Blue Nun with gold for three months in the same. Viura yellow fruits abound. flakes in the bottle. It's a wine of wide appeal and multiple Malvasia adds an aura of talc and Garnacha Blanca an service applications, steering a middle course between extra measure of body. The oak contributes a lightly toasty fruitiness and dryness. Start a holiday evening off with quality. For its volume, intensity, and richness, this will assorted canapes and a hearty toast to the founding Sichel adeptly accommodate a wide variety of tapas. family. Z. ALEXANDER BROWN 2017 UNCAGED SANTA LUCIA GAZELA 2018 VINHO VERDE 2018, PORTUGAL $7 HIGHLANDS CHARDONNAY, CALIFORNIA $15 Gazela is made by one of Portugal's largest wine producers, It's not unusual for rock stars and professional athletes Sogrape Vinhos, also the maker of the iconic Mateus rose, to invest some of their millions in the wine business another gateway wine of the 60s and 70s. A Vinho Verde, and parlay their name recognition into success brands. it comes from northernmost Portugal, well wetted country Frequently, they go the prestige route, underwriting high where white grape varieties thrive. 'Verde' (green) refers to priced Napa Valley cabernets and chardonnays. Zac Brown early harvested grapes, full of racy fruit acidity and levity has taken a different tack, putting his efforts and name to (Gazela is only 9% ABV).