ITALY: A Leader in

Interview by Kristen Wolfe Bieler ■ Portraits by Andrew Kist

The Italian Trade Commission has been promoting their Naturalemente Italiano program for five years now, with great success. We sat down with Trade Commissioner Executive Director for the USA, Aniello Musella, to discuss what the Commission has planned for the present and future of Italian in the United States.

The Beverage Network: How has the American Musella: Yes. Throughout much of the 1960s and 1970s, opinion of changed over the last exported large quantities of inexpensive decade? wines. When looking specifically at still table wines today, Italy remains the leading U.S. supplier, both in Musella: The American consumer’s opinion of Italian terms of value as well as quantity. While we now want to wine has changed as a result of the transformation that focus on higher quality wines, we still want to be a has taken place in the Italian wine industry since the source of value in the American market. 1960s. After the completion of the DOC system, new regulations and new technology (both in TBN: What do you wish Americans understood vinification and management) made us more about Italian wines that they currently do not? competitive, not only as suppliers of great volumes of wine but also as producers of quality wines. The last Musella: I wish that Americans could better understand twenty years have seen a revolution in our appellation system. It is broad and complex, so this that has spanned the . This transfor- will obviously be a process that needs time to evolve and mation was brought about not only by the govern- which requires a massive communication effort on the ments’ regulation of the industry, but also by the inno- part of the Italian wine industry. I am encouraged, how- vation and entrepreneurial spirit of our most dynamic ever, to see that those who try Italian wines are absolute- wine makers. I believe that over the last decade ly fascinated by the variety of tastes available, and by the American consumers have come to understand this fact that they feel that our wines continue to offer a evolutionary process and have rewarded us by becom- remarkable value for the price. ing our customers. TBN: Italian wine sales in this country remain incredi- TBN: This renaissance in quality is evidenced in bly strong, despite price increases due to the weak the bulk of wines being imported to the American U.S. dollar and competition from many New World market as well, correct? wine countries. Can you explain this phenomenon? Aniello Musella, Italian Trade Commissioner Executive Director for the United States of America at his office in New York City Food & Wine team at the ITC (Clockwise from left): Giovanni Mafodda, Senior Deputy Trade Commissioner, Augusto Marchini, Assistant Trade Commissioner and Aniello Musella

However, we must not forget that the vast majority of Americans still do not drink wine. These are the ones that we all should tar- get to promote wine consumption.

TBN: Which efforts by the Italian Trade Commission have been most effective in educating consumers and creating interest in Italian products?

Musella: The Italian Trade Commission has been active in cam- paigning for Italian wines in the United States for over 40 years. Over this time, our success in creating interest for the wines of Italy at a consumer level has been achieved through educational activi- ties such as: meaningful communication campaigns; advertising in the local medias; informative literature; our website (www.italian- made.com); wine tastings and classes; working with licensees to promote our products at the point of sale; and the organization of countless trade and press trips to Italy. Musella: The latest figures show that in 2005 Italy maintains first place among the major importing countries, above Australia and TBN: Describe the current “Naturalmente Italiano” campaign . According to end of year information just recently released and the message you are trying to get across to licensees? by the US Department of Commerce, total American imports of Italian wines in December 2005 registered a marked increase in Musella: We have always relied on the trade as the foundation on value of 11.4 percent. I believe that our enormous reservoir of which to build our message. The Naturalmente Italiano campaign is indigenous varieties that go beyond the very popular grape currently in its fifth year and has been very successful in finding dis- types (, Sauvignon, , Cabernet, etc) gives us a tribution for many new producers in this market. Our greatest chal- useful edge over some of our most aggressive competitors. lenge is the complexity and consolidation of the American market. We advise our small vintners to form liaisons and work together to TBN: U.S. per capita consumption remains much lower promote and market their products in this country. This substantial- than European countries. Do you view this as a signifi- ly increases their impact on markets that may already be crowded cant opportunity? with competitors, many of them, from a more solid economic base. There are currently about 70 companies involved in this campaign, Musella: Even though per capita in Italy we still consume much but there have been hundreds involved over the five years that it more wine (49 liters per person in 2004) than the average has been active, as many move on once they find U.S. distribution. American (8 liters per person), our consumption – as is the case in many European countries – is decreasing. Opportunity is in the TBN: Which Italian region are you most excited about that American market and it is our responsibility to promote wine con- retailers and restaurateurs should be paying attention to? sumption as an integral component of a healthy lifestyle. But U.S. consumption is growing at a slow rate which means Musella: Some of the largest newcomers are and . that everyone in the wine industry is competing to serve that Their wines account for a good portion of the 11 percent increase same small percentage of the general public who drink wine on a that Italian wines experienced in the U.S. market last year. These daily basis. Within this segment of consumers, there is an even regions offer a number of indigenous grape varieties which provide a smaller number that has developed a more sophisticated palate – wide range of choices for the consumer. These vines have ancient those who tend to travel more, to be more educated about wine histories in our soils and they provide something very different from and who are willing to spend more money on wine and food. our competition. ■ ITALY: A Passion for Wine

By Mary Ewing Mulligan and Ed McCarthy

The local-color television features sur- Castle & in rounding network coverage of the Winter Olympics in Torino earlier this year brought the sights and sounds and flavors of Italy to millions of Americans. Anyone thinking about planning a vacation, buying a gift of gourmet food, choosing a of wine for dinner or even deciding on a restaurant for the next night out could hardly ignore the suggestion that Italy— and Italy’s foods, wines and other prod- ucts—stands in a class of its own.

Not that we Americans needed much vines seem to be growing in every available 2.5 times greater than the wine production reminder of what a wonderful place Italy is, viable acre of land; and in people’s homes— of the entire United States—although the or how appropriate Italy’s foods and wines anywhere in the country—wine is the bev- U.S. is the fourth largest wine producer in are for our own lifestyles. Italy already ranks erage of choice at every meal. the world and the world’s leading non- as one of the top tourist destinations for The statistics regarding Italian wines European wine producer. Italy also leads all Americans, and is likewise a and their performance in the U.S. have other countries in the amount of wine sup- favorite here. As far as the wines are con- always been compelling. Tiny Italy, three- plied to American wine drinkers. cerned, Italy is the reigning champion on quarters the size of California and only 60 To be fair, France’s wine production is these shores, and has been, for decades. In percent the size of France, produces more also high, and in some years has been equal other words, Americans have a love affair wine than any other country in the world. to Italy’s. But Italy has sustained its presence with Italy. Even though Italy’s wine production has as the leading foreign supplier of wine to the If we Americans love Italy, it’s logical fallen about 20 percent from its highs during U.S. across three decades. Italy currently that we love its wines, because wine is the the 1990s, the country produced 47.5 mil- produces about 22 percent of all the wine in lifeblood of the Italian people. A first trip to lion hectoliters a year (approximately 1.25 the world, and holds a 30 percent share of Italy is always an eye-opening experience: billion gallons) in 2005. That figure is about wine imported to the U.S. Admittedly, in a climate of overproduction—in 2004, the equivalent of 586 million cases of wine went unsold in the world— 2005 TOTAL WINE IMPORTED a large production of wine is a mixed blessing. But the volume of wine production in Italy testifies to the penetration of wine in the TO THE UNITED STATES country’s culture. (excludes ) Declining wine consumption within Italy, just as in France, has BASED ON QUANTITY (IN LITERS) forced Italy to seek wine drinkers beyond its own borders. (In a 250 forty-year period from 1961 to 2001, per capita consumption in Italy fell from 108 liters to 50 liters; French consumption in the 215 same period fell from 126 liters per capita to 57 liters.) To Italy’s 200 202 credit, however, the country has had a strong export trade in wine since after World War II. Currently, about one-third of Italy’s wine production is exported, and the U.S. is Italy’s largest and thirstiest 150 customer. The United States, with its many knowledgeable wine lovers, has been the world leader in recognizing the exceptional 100 improvement in the quality of Italian wines during the past twen- 100 ty-five years. MILLIONS OF LITERS A positive aspect of Italy’s exports to the U.S. is that they are 50 57 growing in value as well as in volume. In 2005, Italian imported 39 28 wines (excluding sparkling) grew in U.S. dollars by 11.66% (an 0 impressive figure that is all the more so when you consider that Argentina Australia Chile France Italy Spain Italian wine imports have routinely experienced double-digit per- The United States imported 215 million liters of wine from Italy in 2005, centage growth year upon year since the mid 1970’s). increasing imports by 9.4% over 2004. In 2005, this represented over 30% of the total imports to the U.S.

Source: U.S. Department of Commerce The Back-Story What is it about Italy and wine that has enabled this small country to produce such large volumes of wine and find success for those Human Resources wines in foreign markets? The answer probably boils down to two Human passion enters the picture as the catalyst that transforms issues: natural resources and human passion. the opportunity to grow and make wine into an actual, thriving wine business. The passion that feel for wine and Natural Resources food has spawned wine grape production in every single part of the Italy’s blessings in the natural resources depart- country. The passion for family has created a culture that values ment are familiar to anyone who has ever visited long mealtimes, and appreciates the role that wine can play there. In terms of wine, the blessings include: at the table. The passion for drinking wine with food has driven the production of wines that go particularly well with ■ The long, narrow shape of the country, food—which in turn has driven sales of Italian wines around which enables the wine growing regions to extend the world. The passion for individualism has kept the Italian from the in the north to almost with- wine industry vibrant, with wines that reflect the personal flair in sight of in the south; of their makers. ■ The fact that Italy is a peninsula, with The passion that exists in Italy is contagious, too. That’s a long shoreline, contributing moderat- why so many Americans have such strong feelings for ing climatic influences to coastal wine Italian foods, Italian wines, and Italy itself. Of course, the regions; large migration of Italians to the U.S. over the last 150 ■ The mountains and their foothills, which are years created a natural audience for Italy’s products everywhere; besides being crowned by the Alps here—but plenty of Americans who have no Italian her- and Dolomites in the north, Italy has a range of itage love Italy as if it were their own. mountains, the Apennines, that extend along the More History center of the “boot,” separating the eastern wine regions The passion for wine led Italian emigrants to plant vines and make from those on the west; the mountains and hills provide a range wines wherever they established their new lives. They established of altitudes for grape growing and assure a variety of climate and the industry—just as they founded most of soil conditions; Argentina’s . Perhaps even more importantly, Italian

■ A huge assortment of native grape varieties. Commission All photographs courtesy of The Italian Trade immigrants and their descendants opened up most of the Italian restaurants in this country. Today, Italian of Italy’s quality side, and restaurants outnumber all other ethnic their enthusiasm for the top restaurants in the U.S. by far. And of wines. The penetration of course Italian restaurant owners invariably fine Italian wines onto wine chose to serve the wines they knew— lists in three-star restaurants Italian wines. The first encounter that across the country, even many Americans have had with Italian French restaurants, proves Vineyard in Sicily wines took place in Italian restaurants. what success Italy has seen What restaurant goers discovered was that at the high end. the , , or they ITALIAN WINE STYLE drank went so well with the food! Today, it Italian wines are not made to win wine is Pinot Grigio that new wine drinkers are The Home of competitons—even though many of them discovering, not just in Italian restaurants, Indigenous Wines do—but are made to accompany food. Whether it is white, red, or , still or but also in other types of restaurants. Wine critics lately lament the trend toward American wine drinkers have adopted standardization of wine style around the sparkling, dry or sweet, Italian wine’s Pinot Grigio as their favorite type of world. Thankfully, Italy still makes many first responsibility is to go well with imported wine—white or red. unique wines, because of its indigenous food. Traditional Italian wines generally At any one point in the history of varieties and many traditionally-minded have the following characteristics, which Italian wines in the U.S., it seems, differ- winemakers. engender food-friendliness: ent wines have carried the banner for Italy. Italy’s wine diversity is truly mind-bog- gling. Its richest vinous treasure is its indige- ■ In the 1950s, it was Chianti; in the 1960s, High acidity — White wines are nous grape varieties. No one has an exact it was Soave, and to a lesser extent, crisp and lively; red wines are firm. count, but we do know that Italy has over ■ Valpolicella and Bardolino. Then the Dryness — Table wines, whether 1,000 grape varieties, most of which are white, red, or rosé, have little or no Lambrusco craze hit. The fizzy, off-dry wine indigenous, and so it is safe to say that there sweetness. from Emilia-Romagna proved to be a win- are at least 800—and perhaps as many as ■ Subtlety of aromas and flavors — ning choice for new American wine 900—indigenous Italian varieties, far more drinkers, and one brand of Lambrusco, than any other country in the world! Some Most Italian wines are subtle, not Riunite, ranked as the leading brand of of these native varieties, of course, are overstated, so as not to compete imported wine in the U.S. for 26 years, famous throughout the wine world: with or overwhelm the food. until the year 2000. During Lambrusco's , the variety of the great Alcohol levels are reasonable. ■ reign, Frascati, a from Latium, and wines; , the vari- Light to medium body — Most became popular, along with the Corvo ety of Chianti, , Italian wines are not overly power- Vino Nobile de , and numer- brand of white and red wines from Sicily. ful, over-ripe, or over-extracted, ous other wines; , the superb Pinot Grigio began its amazing climb to again as to not overwhelm the Southern Italian variety of Taurasi and popularity in the U.S. in the 1980s, and is accompanying food. . Many other varieties now more popular than ever. should be famous but are practically While buyers of inexpensive wines and unknown outside of Italy—such as , Chianti Classico wines, and super- less sophisticated consumers were quench- the main variety in Valpolicella, , Tuscans—all come from or neigh- ing their thirst with Lambrusco or more and Bardolino wines; and , boring regions, such as Umbria. recently, Pinot Grigio, connoisseurs have Soave’s most important variety. been discovering Italy’s elite wines. Oddly enough, many of Italy’s indige- Unheralded No More Anyone who considers himself a huge fan nous varieties seem to do well only in Italy. Some indigenous Italian varieties have of Barolo, Barbaresco or Brunello di Has anyone ever tasted a really good wine achieved good results in other parts of the Montalcino, for example, knows that he is made from Nebbiolo outside of Piedmont world, but are nevertheless at their best at or ? The stellar quality of Barolo, not alone in this enthusiasm. Significant home in Italy. is one such variety. the crown of Nebbiolo’s production, can be California and Argentina, for example, numbers of collector-level enthusiasts fol- achieved only in the Langhe hills of have produced some fairly good wines from low Italy’s best wines in the U.S.—and Piedmont. Quite a few wine regions Barbera —but those wines don’t compare probably more so than in any other coun- throughout the world have also been trying to Barbera d’Alba and Barbera d’Asti from try. The English might be the world’s clas- their luck with Sangiovese, but frankly, the Piedmont, where Barbera reaches its peak sic connoisseurs of wine, but they rank far Sangiovese-based wines that qualify for of quality. Three other Piedmontese vari- behind the Americans in their recognition greatness—Brunello di Montalcino, many eties, the red , and the white EXPERIENCE ITALY and (the grape behind Gavi There are over 1,000 grape varieties in Italy, the majority wines) are also all at their best in the vine- of which are unique to its land. Here are just a few: yards of Piedmont. Montepulciano, another popular indige- Grape Varieties Color Most Important Wines Major Regions nous grape, ranks with Sangiovese and Barbera as one of Italy’s most planted red vari- Arneis White Roero Arneis Piedmont eties, and accounts for many of Italy’s best White Etna Bianco Sicily value-red wines. It is the main variety in White Bianco Alcamo, Catarratto Sicily Montepulciano d’ (Abruzzo is the Coda di Volpe White Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Bianco Campania grape’s native province), and is also the prime Cortese White Gavi Piedmont Falanghina White Falanghina Campania variety in ’s Rosso Cònero; White Fiano di Avellino Campania Montepulciano is also blended into many Garganega White Soave, Recioto di Soave, Veneto other wines in . The most com- Gambellara monly planted white variety, by far, in Italy is White Grillo Sicily the indigenous . Although it is the Inzolia White Inzolia (Ansonico), Menfi Bianco Sicily White Veneto Veneto main variety in so many of Italy’s value-priced White Ribolla Gialla Friuli white wines, Trebbiano’s various sub-varieties, Tocai Friulano White Tocai Friulano, Breganze Bianco Friuli when planted carefully so as to not over-crop, Traminer White Traminer Aromatico Alto Adige can make fine wines. The principal Trebbiano Trebbiano White Trebbiano di Romagna, , Tuscany, Emilia- strains are Trebbiano Toscano, Trebbiano di Lugana (Trebbiano di Lugana), Romagna, Lombardy, Bianco di Custoza, Frascati Veneto, Latium Romagna, Trebbiano d’Abruzzo, Trebbiano White Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, Marche Giallo, Trebbiano di Lugana, and Trebbiano Verdicchio di Matelica di Soave. White Verduzzo, Verduzzo di Friuli All these grape varieties—numerous as White Vermentino, Vermentino di Tuscany, , they are—represent only the tip of the indige- Sardegna, Vermentino di Gallura White Vernaccia di San Gimignano Tuscany nous Italian iceberg. Previously unheralded native varieties are finally receiving their due Aglianico Red Taurasi, Aglianico del Vulture Campania, recognition. Nero d’Avola, undoubtedly Barbera Red Barbera d’Alba, Barbera d’Asti, Piedmont Sicily’s top red variety, is now credited as one Barbera del Monferrato of Italy’s finest red varieties. is Corvina Red Valpolicella, Amarone della Veneto Valpolicella, Bardolino the most renowned red variety in Puglia, Dolcetto Red Dolcetto d’Alba, Dolcetto di Piedmont accounting for an incredible amount of wine Dogliani, Dolcetto di Diano from Italy’s largest wine-producing region. d’Alba, Dolcetto d’Asti Two exciting white varieties from Red Ciró Rosso, Ciró Rosato Calabria Campania—Fiano and Falanghina—have Red Lagrein Alto Adige Lambrusco Red Lambrusco Emilia-Romagna earned new recognition for the wines they are Monica Red Monica di Sardegna Sardinia making around Naples and the Amalfi Coast. Montepulciano Red Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, Cerasuolo, Abruzzo, Marche, It is possible that Fiano and Falanghina might Rosso Cònero Molise have had their roots in Greece (along with Nebbiolo Red Barolo, Barbaresco, Gattinara, Piedmont. Valle d’Aosta Campania’s variety, which is definitely Ghemme, Roero, Nebbiolo d’Alba, Carema, Donnaz, Sassella from Greece)—nobody is certain—but they Negroamaro Red Salice Salentino Puglia have been in Italy for well over 2,000 years, Nerello Mascalese Red Faro, Etna Rosso, Etna Rosato Sicily perhaps even longer. Food lovers have always Nero d’Avola Red Nero d’Avola Sicily known about the incredible vegetables and Red Pignolo Friuli fruit from Campania, not to mention the Red Refosco, Refosco dal Peduncolo Friuli Rosso and mozzarella di bufala. But now wine lovers Red Sagrantino di Montefalco Umbria have their own Campanian specialties to Sangiovese Red Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino, Vino Tuscany, Umbria applaud. Nobile di Montepulciano, Sangiovese di Romagna, The Three “V’s” Carmignano, Rosso di Montalcino, Schiava Red Santa Maddalener, Lago di Caldaro Alto Adige Three other white varieties that have helped Schiopettino Red Schiopettino (aka, Ribolla Nera) Friuli the white-wine segment in Italy are the three Teroldego Red Teroldego Rotaliano Trentino “V” grapes: Verdicchio, Vermentino, and Red Castel del Monte Rosso, Rosso Puglia Vernaccia. Barletta ITALY’S FUTURE “STAR” INDIGENOUS VARIETIES We predict that wine lovers will shortly be ■ Verdicchio had been popular in the 1960s and ‘70s, but became a victim of its discovering these great Italian indigenous own popularity and was over-produced, not always in the best areas. Thanks varieties, which are known and respected by to Franco Bernabei and other Italian enologists, Verdicchio has been “re- connoisseurs, but haven’t yet reached born” during the past decade, and is now making teriffic, crisp, flavorful white wines—and at astonishingly moderate prices! super-star status: ■ Vermentino just needed a few champions to gain popularity. Always a leading wine in Sardinia and Liguria, it is now receiving new acclaim in Lagrein — This red variety is one of the most Tuscany, especially in the Maremma region along the Tuscan coast; the two admired grapes of the dramatically beautiful Cottarella brothers, Renzo and Riccardo, both among Italy’s leading oenolo- Alto Adige area; fairly high in tannin and acidity, gists and winemakers, are strong advocates of Vermentino. with grapey, vibrant fruit character, this variety ■ Vernaccia is actually two distinct white varieties—as well as a red variety, the is now making some great wines, as winemak- lesser-known red Vernaccia in Marche. The best-known Vernaccia makes the ers become skilled in managing the tannins. popular Vernaccia di San Gimignano wine in Tuscany; the other Vernaccia variety (not related to its Tuscan namesake) makes , an Pignolo — At this point, only dedicated con- aperitif wine very much like on the island of Sardinia. noisseurs might know about Pignolo, but this Italy has its own grape variety for , as well—Prosecco. Its home should change. This red variety from Friuli has is the eastern Veneto, and the wine comes in fully sparkling (spumante), slightly been making impressive, full-bodied wines. sparkling (frizzante), and still versions. A rosé version—Prosecco Rosato—also Within ten years, the wine world will have dis- exists. Prosecco has been wildly popular in the U.S. lately. It has floral and fruity covered Pignolo. aromas, is fairly dry—especially when labeled “Extra Dry” or “Extra Brut”—is inexpensive, and is the perfect accompaniment to antipasti. For those who prefer Refosco — The great indigenous red variety their sparkling wine sweet, we should not forget the Moscato Di grape from Friuli makes velvety, plummy wines. which produces the famous Asti Spumante, traditionally appreciated by con- Another variety whose time is coming! sumers worldwide and still today, Italy's leading exported sparkling wine. Ribolla Gialla — Ths white variety flourishes on Notable Advances In Italian Wines the slopes of Collio and Colli Orientali in Friuli. Its wines are not as full-bodied or textured as During the past twenty-five years, Italian wines have experienced such enormous improvements that one can say a true wine renaissance has taken place. Quite fit- Tocai Friulano wines, but are good-quality, ting for the country where the original Renaissance of the Middle Ages began! easy-drinking, inexpensive white wines, a cate- Wine has been so much a part of Italian life for so long that most Italians, gory that is always popular. even winemakers, have had quite a casual attitude towards wine. It was always there; they took it for granted. But no more! Realizing the highly competitive Sagrantino — Umbria’s premium red variety is nature of the world market today, with new challenges arising from New World definitely on the brink of stardom. Sagrantino di countries such as Australia, Italians have become very serious about their wines. Montefalco, the most important wine made Here are some of the major advances that we have noted in Italian wines dur- from this variety, already has DOCG recogni- ing the past twenty-five years: tion.

A new focus on . Winemakers say, “It all starts in the vineyard,” and Schiava — The most common red variety in in fact, improvements in viticultural practices are central to Italy’s wine industry. Alto Adige (some German-speaking locals call have been re-planted with a higher density of vines, in a move to pro- duce smaller, more concentrated grapes. Research has been undertaken to identify it Vernatsch); it’s the main variety in the local Santa Maddalener and Lago di Caldaro wines.

Vineyard in Friuli - Venezia Giulia Teroldego — A neighbor of Lagrein, hailing from just south of Alto Adige, in the Trentino, area, Teroldego is similar to Lagrein but a bit more tannic. A few producers make stunning varietal Teroldego wines.

Tocai Friulano — Friuli’s great, flavorful white variety makes weighty, viscous wines; it has been flirting with stardom for quite a while, and now its time has come. the best clones of various grape varieties—such as Sangiovese— and those clones were planted. Pruning and green harvests are now routinely done. On the average, Italy’s vineyards today are 100 per- cent better than those of twenty-five years ago.

Chianti now a world class wine. Few, if any, wineries in Tuscany would have made this statement twenty-five years ago. In the early 1970s, Chianti was over-produced, and much of it was not of high quality. Some wineries went out of business, and other estates pulled up their vineyards and planted other crops. A few leaders recognized the problem and took the necessary steps to improve their wines. One plan was to make a premium wine, even if it did not follow the grape-variety regulations for Chianti; these wines, of course, are today the “Super-Tuscans.” The new recognition that Town of Montalcino, Tuscany Tuscan wines gained—thanks in part to the success of the Super- Tuscans—led to huge improvements in Chianti itself, starting in the vineyards. Huge advances in white wines. The word on Italy used to be, Vast improvement in the wines of . Who would “Good red wines, forgettable whites.” What a difference time can have believed 25 years ago that Campania, Sicily, Puglia, and make! Italian white wines are now among the best white wines in Sardinia would be making some of Italy’s most sought-after, fashion- the world, with vibrant, fresh flavors—a far cry from the bland and able wines? Sicily and Puglia, in particular, were regarded as regions sometimes dull Italian whites of yesterday. The movement towards for industrial, bulk wines. Now first-rate white and red wines are improving white wines began in Friuli and Alto Adige, and spread being made in both regions, many from wineries that did not exist 25 to the Veneto. Now, you can find great Italian white wines in years ago, or at least were not in the premium wine business then. Campania, Sicily, and in fact, throughout Italy. The quantity of Sicily’s Marsala is a prime example. Regarded as nothing but an inex- white wine produced has also increased, to about 40 percent of pensive cooking wine 25 years ago, today Marsala has gained limited Italy’s total production. recognition as both a fine aperitif and . Other developments in the last quarter-century involve the emergence of specific types of Italian wines on the world stage— such as the re-birth of Soave and Verdicchio. Both Soave and Verdicchio had their moments in the sun in 2005 MARKET SHARE OF the 1960s and 1970s. They grew to such demand that both were IMPORTS TO THE UNITED STATES over-produced, and quality suffered. But Soave and Verdicchio (excludes sparkling wines) have both experienced a dramatic turn-around in quality during BASED ON DOLLAR VOLUME the past decade, and are now among the best whites in Italy—even Others if both are value-priced. New 7.5% Three previously unsung Italian red wines have also made their Zealand 2.91% mark. Take Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, for example. It is perhaps the Germany best value-priced in the world. This delicious, medium-bod- 3.14% ied wine, made from the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo variety (85 to 100 Spain percent), wholesales for as low as $40 to $48 a case at discount! 5.25% Italy Rosso Cònero hails from the Marche region, just north of Chile 31.78% Abruzzo, on Italy’s eastern (Adriatic) coast. If Rosso Cònero were 5.37% from Tuscany or Piedmont, it would have been discovered a long time ago. This velvety, well-balanced red wine, made primarily from the Montepulciano variety, retails for $15 to $20. France Umbria also has its previously unsung red wine—Sagrantino di Italy’s table 20.1% Australia Montefalco. Some people were surprised when Sagrantino di wine imports 23.95% Montefalco was recently granted DOCG status, because it was so to the U.S. little known, even in other parts of Italy. Actually, the Sagrantino amounted to $978 million in variety has been making wine locally since the Middle Ages, but it 2005, an increase was a sweet wine then. Now it’s a dry, robust red that retails in the of 11.66% over $24 to $30 price range, well-priced for a wine of this quality. 2004. By comparison, As Italian producers and their wines face the challeng- Australia’s table wine ing new wine market of the 21st century, they are fortunate imports totaled $737 million. to be in a position of strength, based on solid, long-term Source: U.S. Department of Commerce and steadily increasing success. ■